Arsutoria Magazine

NEUTRA launches the new Simbiosi model

The Dutch trainer brand launches its new Simbiosi model, developed in collaboration with the world leader in the development and production of high-performance rubber soles Vibram and the avant-garde textile company BYBORRE. Inspired by the concept from which it takes its name, the Simbiosi model was born from the fusion of the identities of both brands into a single product.

Designed with the award-winning BYBORRE Create design tool, the textile upper is made from sustainable materials and revisits the brand’s most distinctive patterns and tones.

Each shoe is unique thanks to the cut-out pattern. Simbiosi also features VIBRAM’s lightweight Megagrip rubber sole and is finished with a unique lacing system. In particular, the Simbiosi model is the first trainer ever to feature Vibram’s Sphike Wrap sole. Thanks to Vibram Wrap Tech, the grip-optimised technology that wraps around the upper of the shoe, the sole is able to define a bold unconventional style that gives the shoe a unique personality. The Vibram Sphike Wrap sole is made with Vibram Megagrip compound, the best solution in terms of grip on wet and rough terrain, and Vibram Litebase technology, which reduces the thickness of the rubber at the base of the sole, while maintaining the same arrangement and shape of the tread blocks.


New Mono[PA6] backpack from FREITAG: one material, many recycles

After three years dedicated to development FREITAG launches another circular innovation: the Mono[PA6] backpack is not only functional, durable and water-repellent, but also recyclable in its entirety and therefore entirely circular. From the fabric to the zips to the buckles, the backpack is made from a single material so that it can be easily recycled as a whole at the end of its life cycle. The material chosen is polyamide 6 or PA6, better known as nylon: versatile, robust and multifaceted. With the launch of this innovative product, the Zurich-based bag manufacturer closes a material loop and takes a new important step towards its vision of a circular economy.

FREITAG also followed a co-creative approach in the product design phase: the Mono[PA6] backpack was developed together with British designer Jeffrey Siu and features the musette, a small, removable bag and at the same time a homage to an iconic cycling accessory, which can be worn as a practical shoulder bag or attached to the backpack at several points as an additional outer bag. The volume of the rucksack can also be expanded or reduced thanks to the folded bottom and flexible roll-top closure.


Area tendenze Arsutoria a Texworld Parigi

Durante la prossima edizione di Texworld Paris, che si terrà a Parigi Port de Versailles dall’1 al 3 luglio 2024, Arsutoria organizzerà l’area tendenze con materiali e componenti per l’autunno – inverno 25/26.

L’area tendenze di Parigi segue quelle organizzate da Arsutoria a Città del Capo lo scorso settembre e a New York in gennaio, rafforzando la collaborazione con Messe Frankfurt.

A Parigi Arsutoria ringrazia in anticipo i suoi partner:

ALMANSA CUERO ARPEX TEXTILES CARBIPEL GROUP CENTRO ACCESSORI COLOR-DEC ITALY CORPLAST GIARDINI HAWAI ITALIA IPR LANIFICIO BIGAGLI M.P.G. INDUSTRIA CONCIARIA MORO MINUTERIE PACCAPELO PELLAMI DUE C RIFRA NASTRI SCHMID MILANO SILVACHIMICA SNEAKNIT

IFABA’s many faces of sustainability

Among the company’s choices already made in favour of the environment, of primary importance is the installation of a photovoltaic system at the Parabiago headquarters, which makes it possible to considerably reduce emissions, with 97,500 kilos of CO2 saved and a total power output of 183 kWp: numbers that translate into an environmental benefit comparable to the planting of 1772 trees. Even more recent is the plant in Pieve a Nievole, with a total power output of 80 kWp, also capable of significantly reducing emissions, with 42,640 kilos of CO2 saved per year and an environmental benefit comparable to the planting of 776 trees; the Fossò site in Veneto, soon to be opened, is also preparing to become IFABA’s new flagship, especially in terms of sustainability.

In addition to what has already been mentioned, there is the installation of a new plastic moulding machine in Parabiago – which will make machine stoppages close to zero, reducing energy consumption on an annual basis by 28% compared to the previous decommissioned plant, – and the overhaul of the numerical control lathes present in all the factories of the industrial group, which will significantly reduce energy requirements thanks to the use of innovative software capable of controlling and optimising consumption in real time.

Discarded lasts for shoe factories will be recovered to be shredded and sent for recovery and recycling to finally be reused by the last makers as raw material for new lasts: this joint effort will maximise the recovery of materials, minimising the use of resources and promoting circularity.

An agreement with the company Omnisyst also ensures the company monitors CO2 savings. Thus, the industrial group based in Parabiago (MI) – which has two branches in Italy and one in Romania – is preparing to obtain ISO 9001 certification on quality management systems, ISO 14001 on environmental management systems and ISO 45001 on safety in the workplace in the course of 2024.

NATIVA™ Cotton

NATIVA™ Cotton accelerates the shift towards a more sustainable production system, from farm to brand. Made in Europe, NATIVA™ Cotton is a one-stop solution that certifies cotton growing, sourcing and production under the NATIVA™ Regenerative Program. The NATIVA™ Regenerative Agriculture Program is a robust system with a triple impact based on scientific research and backed by data.

NATIVA™’s Regenerative Agriculture Program protects the land by bettering soil quality, safeguards crops by ensuring soil health, and supports farmers and local communities by improving their livelihoods. These multidisciplinary efforts further result in greater water quality and increased CO2 capturing levels. Measured over a five-year period, NATIVA™ aims to achieve a 20% increase of organic materials (natural nutrients) in the soil through its regenerative agricultural practices. This is supported by a 25% reduction in pesticides, with an eventual goal of zero pesticide use throughout time, and the effective eradication of tillage.

“As part of NATIVA™’s goals of positively impacting the supply chain for a more sustainable system, we wanted to expand our reach from wool into new fibers. With cotton playing such a significant role in the fashion industry, it was only natural to extend our programme to this iconic fiber.” said Maria Estrada, NATIVA™ Global Director.

NATIVA™ Regenerative Cotton’s founding partner, Nafpaktos Textile Industry SA, is based in Greece. Every step from the cultivation to the fiber processing and yarn making takes place in Greece – resulting in a farm to fiber cycle fully accomplished within the EU and complying with EU standards in labour and environmental conservation rights. Among partner brands NATIVA we find Stella McCartney, Gucci, Pangaia.


Companies interview Lineapelle S/S 2025

The 103rd edition of Lineapelle, which took place at Fiera Milano Rho from 20 to 22 February, registered a substantially positive result and growth compared to both editions of the previous year, with a total of 25,376 trade operators attending to find out about the novelties for the Spring Summer 2025 fashion season from 1,167 exhibitors.

The participation of foreign operators was significant (39% of the total), with a prevalence of buyers from France, Spain, Germany, Great Britain, Turkey, the United States and China.

As usual, the trade fair experience was enriched by various events and initiatives, starting with the six Lineapelle Designers Edition fashion shows.

Very positive feedback also for the first edition of Lineapelle Interiors / Leather Duets, a business culture exhibition that staged a sequence of installations, each of which represented an exclusive leather design project shared between a made-in-Italy leather manufacturer and a furniture company.

There was also great involvement for In The Making Atto II (an interconnected and multidisciplinary space where visitors were able to take part in a series of craft workshops using leather) and for the second edition of the Science Based Fashion Talks, opportunities for debate and sharing that aim to discover and define green strategies for the entire supply chain.

This edition was also particularly lively in terms of the novelties proposed by the exhibitors, which were characterised by strong innovative research and a clear propensity to diversify markets, proposals and destinations.

We itervated the companies present and asked them to tell us about their proposals for S/S 2025.

52nd AICC National Conference in Chiampo on May 17th

It will be held on Friday, May 17, 2024, at the Municipal Auditorium in Chiampo (VI) the
52nd AICC National Conference entitled “New Frontiers in Leather Production.”
Below is the program of the proceedings

PROGRAM

17.00 Opening Greetings and Start of Work

17.20 Hyperfunctional Polycarbodiimide Crosslinkers for Aqueous Leather Finishes
Speakers: Ralph Günther Blach and Fabio Lupi – Stahl

17.40 Dry milling as a Control Tool
Speaker: Giulio Galiotto – Erretre


18.00 Biocides Migration Study
Speaker: Luca Ramadori – Arco

18.20 New Finishing Technology with Release Paper for Frosted and Full Grain Leathers
Speaker: Gianni Maitan – Gemata

18.40 Use of Bio-Based Products – Evaluation and LCA Assessment for the Future of Leather Production
Speaker: Riccardo Pasquale – GSC

19.00 Closing and Greetings

20.00 Social Dinner at La Pieve Restaurant – Via Pieve, 79 – 36072 Chiampo (VI)

Registration is welcome to be done at www.aicc.it by 14/05/2024.
Attendance at the meeting is free, but reserved for AICC members in good standing for the year 2023 and/or the year 2024, students as well as invited guests.
The conference will be preceded by the Ordinary Members’ Meeting, which will be held from 3:30 to 4:30 pm.

GSC GROUP participates in ALCA Conference in the U.S.

For the first time, GSC Group will join the prestigious ALCA (American Leather Chemists Association) Convention scheduled in Hershey, Pennsylvania, May 21-24 by presenting an innovative study that draws inspiration from the findings of IULTCS 2022.
The GSC Group session will begin with a presentation by Riccardo Pasquale, PhD, at 11:30 a.m. on Thursday, May 23. The full title of the research is “The future of leather production based on chemicals evaluation in conjunction with modern tools for higher performing processes and lower environmental impact.”
The study focuses on the tanning technologies currently available on the market focusing on the evaluation of their impacts through the use of an LCA study, as well as the group’s initiatives to produce high Bio-Based products for less impactful leathers.
To learn more click on the  LINK

EECHA apologizes for misleading leather claims

Following the complaint of the European Leather (COTANCE) and the European Footwear (CEC) Industries, the European Chemical Agency (ECHA) formally apologised for wrongly conveying, through their communications channels, the impression that leather goods or footwear have possible cancer-causing properties because of Cr VI.
This ECHA’s deceptive communication was pinpointed last 15th of March in a joint letter from COTANCE and CEC. They denounced an infographic on the ECHA web page of its “Preventing Cancer” campaign and the corresponding LinkedIn Post for being inaccurate and misleading, reminding the Agency: “that Chromium VI is not used for tanning leather and that Chromium tanning is not the only tanning method in the sector. Yet, the infographic gives the impression that leather automatically contains Chromium VI, and that this presence is likely to cause cancer. This creates unjustified concerns in consumers, which may take distance from leather articles”.
The letter further clarified that the actual EU restriction on Chromium VI in leather regards its potential skin sensitising properties, not its carcinogenicity.
The formal response from ECHA came on April 9, which stated: “We [ECHA] apologise for this error and have corrected the infographic, as soon as our attention was drawn to it, to reflect the actual situation. We have also removed the LinkedIn post referred to in your letter”.

While COTANCE and CEC appreciate ECHA’s swift action to erase inaccurate and misleading information conveyed by its channels to the public, the leather and footwear industries express their profound disappointment over the Agency’s failure to fully accept responsibility for the harm inflicted upon these sectors. The decision to delete a post, which by then had already gone viral, does little to mend the reputation of our unjustly maligned industries, nor does it aid EU citizens in understanding what was wrong.
“It is a good thing that ECHA rectified, but we regret that they did not fully capture our concern; they have managed the issue like a simple “editorial mistake”. We believe the harm done to the reputation and appeal of the leather value chain would need something more.” says Carmen Arias, Secretary General of CEC.
In this sense, 


COTANCE and CEC understand that further ECHA action should be forthcoming, such as running a formal corrigendum for repairing the unintended consequences of its actions. “This would evidence much more ECHA’s claimed commitment to accuracy, transparency, and accountability” adds Gustavo González-Quijano, Secretary General of COTANCE.

PERFORMANCE DAYS celebrates a great edition

The trade fair for sustainable sourcing of textiles and functional accessories, which took place on 20 and 21 March at the Munich Exhibition Centre, ended with great success. Almost 440 exhibitors from various countries were present, offering the approximately 3,000 trade visitors a wide range of innovative products and solutions. The number of visitors exceeded all expectations, reaching a new record, and making PERFORMANCE DAYS 2024 one of the most significant events in the industry.

“We are thrilled with the positive response and lively interest in this year’s PERFORMANCE DAYS trade fair,” commented CEO Marco Weichert. “The record turnout is proof of the relevance and importance of this fair for the entire textile industry. We are proud to provide a platform that drives innovation and shapes the future of textile design.”

The two new platforms were very successful: the Reality Zone, with workshops where new solutions and approaches were discussed in collaboration with Accelerating Circularity, the New York-based non-profit organisation that acts as a catalyst for new circular supply chains and business models to convert used textiles into common raw materials. Technology Hub, a space for the exchange of innovative technologies and tools that support sustainable processes.

With regard to footwear specifically, the Footwear Area and the dedicated Forum were the protagonists: ‘The atmosphere in the Footwear Area was simply wonderful,’ commented Nina Conrad, co-initiator of the Area. It was great to see the conversations between exhibitors and the collaborations that were fostered. The results of this collaboration were also evident in the forum, which attracted a large audience thanks to the 3D-printed shoe we presented.”

Positive feedback also for the Expert Talks programme, with the focus topic ‘Beyond Bottles – the Future of Polyester’ on a highly topical subject, as well as for the Sustainability Lounge, which followed the principle of learning, participation, exchange and networking. “Sustainability only works as a team: mutual exchange and learning are essential,” commented organiser Anna Rodewald of GreenroomVoice. The two days showed once again how important it is for the industry to join forces, look ahead, pursue a common goal and initiate new projects together’.

All that remains is to look forward to the next edition of the PERFORMANCE DAYS, which will take place on 23 and 24 October 2024 in Munich at Messe München in Halls A1 and A2.

Forum 
Footwear Area
Expert Talks