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Arsutoria Magazine

Silvateam S.p.A. and wet-green GmbH now jointly set the benchmark in plant-based tanning technology

 On 16 February, Silvateam S.p.A., a world leader in the production of vegetable tannins, announced that it is the new majority owner of wet-Green GmbH, pioneer of the patented wet-green® technology for Olivenleder®, after acquiring the company from MB-Holding GmbH. This strategic alliance will be the “North Star” for sustainable innovations in the leather industry.

Silvateam S.p.A., with over 170 years of experience in tannin production and leading the way in leather innovation with the Ecotan® brand, and wet-green GmbH, a revolutionary company in eco-friendly tanning solutions, are together setting a new standard in leather manufacturing. This partnership sends a clear signal to the industry: the future lies in sustainable, plant-based solutions.
Silvateam core capabilities in the supply chain and production of plant-based extracts will allow Olivenleder® tanning agent manufacture to be streamlined for the required scaling up in leather making process.
Olivenleder®, known for its 100% bio-based tanning agent wet-green® OBE, represents the apex of sustainable tanning technology and ideally complements Silvateam’s bio-circular Ecotan® range. Significantly, Olivenleder® is considered a “Game Changer” in wet-green’s activities, introducing a vegetable-based pre-tanning agent that for the first time in the history of the leather industry, allows for the production of vegetable-tanned nappa-like, soft and rapid to produce leather. This breakthrough symbolizes a synergy of time-tested methods and revolutionary innovation, with Olivenleder® crowning their joint efforts for eco-conscious actions.

The strategic collaboration brings a significant advantage to the market: the combined use of Ecotan® and Olivenleder® will enable brands to build strong green credentials using both certification labels, culminating in the industry’s highest standard available for sustainable leather products. This integration of technologies and certifications underscores the partnership’s commitment to setting new benchmarks for environmental responsibility and best practices in the leather industry.
Antonio Battaglia, Business Unit Leather Director at Silvateam, states: “This partnership is a turning point for the entire industry. We are setting new standards and demonstrating that sustainable tanning technologies are not only feasible but also the way forward. Olivenleder® added to Silvateam full range of wet-end products will allow an unprecedented ability to innovate in sustainable leather technology.”
Ecotan®, known for its low environmental footprint and superior quality, offers a range of eco-friendly tanning methods, including high performance plant-based tanning and chrome-free and GTA-free wet-white tanning. Ecotan® is the first biocircular leather tanning technology, 100% free of metals, making a recyclable, healthy and nature-inspired leather tanning possible. wet-green® OBE, meeting the requirements for a biocircular leather, perfectly complements the Ecotan® technology, together establishing a new comprehensive standard for the leather industry.
With this partnership, Silvateam S.p.A. and wet-green GmbH establish a new benchmark in the leather sector, embodying sustainability and innovation. It represents a clear commitment to a more environmentally friendly and responsible future in leather manufacturing.

GEA GOMMA: the ‘masters’ of ‘sole crepe’

The story of GEA GOMMA SRL is a family history, but also a story of commitment to the pursuit of quality by drawing on the natural heritage. In fact, the company was founded in Vigevano in 1952 on the intuition of Giuseppe Bonomi, who realised the potential of natural rubber for footwear production. This is how GEA GOMMA soon became a European leader in the production of natural rubber for footwear, an activity that is carried on today with commitment and success by the founder’s children: Daniela Bonomi, flanked by her three sons, William, Paola and Stefano Grivel.

The production complex we see today is the result of the expansion that took place in 1969, with the transfer of the business to Castello d’Agogna. In the industrial warehouses, which occupy an area of about 14,000 square metres, the entire process of manufacturing natural rubber, known internationally as ‘sole crepe’, takes place. The manufacturing process of the rubber soling sheets follows a strict and precise specification, which aims to guarantee the highest product quality and total respect for the environment.

The special processing to which natural rubber for footwear is subjected is technologically innovative, making GEA GOMMA one of the leading brands in the footwear accessories sector.

The manufacturing process of natural para rubber is environmentally friendly and non-polluting, consisting of the processing of natural raw rubber obtained from the latex of the Hevea Brasiliensis plant. The latex is purchased from plantations in South-East Asia, which produce the best quality rubber, and by means of mills, mixers and calenders, the raw rubber is processed into sheets of different thicknesses and colours. This process not only produces shoe soles of the highest quality, but also a rubber that is not chemically treated and retains its characteristics. This process, moreover, has the added value of not producing fumes, vapours, dust, and environmentally polluting waste. Moreover, any processing residue can be reused in the production cycle.


FLYTECH SOLES: crafting the future of footwear between tradition and innovation

Founded in 1998 under the name of FLYTECH SOLES P&T, but with deep roots in the footwear industry dating back to 1927, today FLYTECH SOLES is renowned for the production of soles for footwear in TR (thermoplastic rubber), EVA (ethylene-vinyl acetate), TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane), PU (polyurethane) and for a series of handcrafted solutions that combine the art of traditional soles with modern technological achievements.

In fact, it is worth mentioning that FLYTECH SOLES was the first company in Poland to start producing EVA soles: a pioneering initiative that underlined the company’s leadership in adopting cutting-edge practices and technologies in the industry.

Strategically located in Central Europe, FLYTECH SOLES has capitalised on its location to effectively meet the needs of the Eastern and Central European markets. This prime location improves their distribution and logistics, allowing them to efficiently cater to the diverse needs of their extensive clientele. Additionally, with a strategic focus on Western Europe, FLYTECH SOLES is determined to expand its influence and presence in these key markets.

From its beginnings as a family-run shoe company to its evolution into a leading manufacturer of shoe soles, FLYTECH already has many millions of pairs of soles to its credit and cooperation with leading European shoe brands. FLYTECH SOLES has consistently demonstrated an unwavering dedication to excellence.

With roots deeply embedded in the footwear industry and an eye constantly on the horizon of technological and market trends, FLYTECH SOLES is not just keeping pace with the industry—it is actively shaping the future of footwear, reinforcing its position.

MGT Ecoline: a unique technology for PU recycling

With a view to increasingly sustainable and environmentally friendly production, on the occasion of the A+A 2023, the Italian Main Group presented to the market MGT Ecoline, a new technology that allows polyurethane waste to be recovered and reintroduced into the footwear production cycle.

Until a few years ago, it was not possible to recycle this material,” explains Davide Silvestrin, from the Technical Service of the Veneto-based technology company, “Main Group has found a way to treat it so that it can be reintroduced into the production circuit, bringing environmental and economic benefits”.

With a new peripheral system, which is added to Main Group’s machines, it is now possible to recover polyurethane production waste that until now could not be reintroduced into the process and had to be thrown away: a waste of material that impacts both environmentally and economically. As for quality, soles made from recycled polyurethane are no different from those made from virgin material in terms of physical-mechanical characteristics and therefore technical performance.

Thanks to new technologies, in recent years Main Group has made it possible to recover and reuse many materials used in the production of shoe soles such as Eva and rubber, to which polyurethane is now added, adding a strategic asset within the footwear machinery market.

More than safe the ultralight sole of FINPROJECT

The Finproject industrial group specialises in the production of ultralight materials for soles destined for the most important brands in the footwear market. For some years now, it has also entered the work footwear sector with a version of its famous (especially in the fashion world) XL EXTRALIGHT® sole, developing some important projects with leading Italian and foreign safety shoe brands. At the centre of attention is a very popular material in the urban footwear sector such as Eva, whose extreme lightness is appreciated, but which until recently was not considered sufficiently resistant for the world of safety. What changed the perspective was Finproject itself, which, thanks to its enormous experience with this ingredient, found a way to develop a new category of materials and products with technical requirements more than adequate for the demands of a work shoe.

“XL EXTRALIGHT® footwear soles, compared to other soles with the same mechanical properties, are more comfortable, lightweight, durable and high-performance,” explain Finproject. “With a weight approximately three times less than other materials, XL EXTRALIGHT® is light, flexible and durable, and also a natural shock absorber for stress-free comfort for feet and back.

In compliance with the European standards on safety, protective and occupational footwear for professional use (DIN EN ISO 20345,20346, 20347), Finproject has in fact developed XL EXTRALIGHT® INDUSTRIAL PLUS, a unique flexible and resistant material that guarantees perfect footwear grip in the most difficult environmental and working conditions: it resists oil, hydrocarbons, it can be antistatic or electrical hazard protection upon customer request, non-slip, guarantees excellent grip and compression set. The result? Lightweight and comfortable safety shoes.

Michelin soles drive the aesthetic evolution of work shoes

In recent years, the world of work footwear has undergone the most significant aesthetic transformation in the sector. Today, these shoes take their inspiration in look and colours from trainers, running shoes from the outdoor sector, bringing a rainbow of colours to the halls of the German trade fair.

The colours catch the eye but the real difference in these collections is the innovation and technology of the materials used for the uppers and soles.

Characteristics that we find in the new collections proposed by Amblers, Royer, Solid Gear and Swolx with Michelin soles developed by JV International, worldwide licensee for the design, production and distribution of Michelin soles. It is an ongoing challenge and stimulus to meet the specific needs of workers. Attention has been paid to designing soles that can provide important features for everyday safety in the workplace, such as a firm grip on the most slippery terrain when in contact with chemicals and oily substances.

Michelin soles always guarantee a high level of safety, whether in closed environments such as warehouses or workshops, or on outdoor construction sites. All while offering maximum comfort. Reducing the risk of accidents in the workplace is a priority for JV International and this is also why more and more companies are choosing the quality and safety of Michelin soles for their footwear.

Amblers
Glacious
Swolx
Solid Gear

TODESCO, come and see how the Purple system works

Drying leather is one of the most energy-intensive steps in the finishing process and heavily influences the calculation of the Carbon Footprint of the manufacturing process. Now technology is coming to the rescue. At the Simac Tanning Tech 2023, last September in Milan, Todesco and GSC Group presented a new technology that is the result of a three-year project in 2020 called Purple. “The idea was born and took shape in the immediate post-pandemic period, at a time when energy and gas costs were soaring,” explains Paolo Todesco. Purple is an innovative technology covered by an international patent, which reduces energy consumption during the drying of the leather after the reassembly and fixing processes.

How does it work?

“The Purple UV unit – the manager explains – is a station located at the end of the drying tunnel that eliminates temperature as a catalyst in chemical reactions: the catalyst is ultraviolet light, and this keeps the temperature of the leather below 40°”

The first industrialised system is located at Todesco’s R&D area in Creazzo (Vicenza) and operates at standard working speeds >12 m/min. According to data collected by the company, the Purple system guarantees energy savings of up to 66% compared to a steam tunnel and 73% compared to an infrared tunnel. Emissions are reduced by 57% compared to steam-powered drying and 75% compared to infrared.

“The resulting leather is less sticky after finishing due to the lower solvent content and the ‘cold’ process eliminates any sintering effect on the surface”.

The development of the Purple system saw the collaboration of the leather chemical company GSC Group, which is based just 10 km from the Todesco factory in the tanning district of Arzignano. The collaboration resulted in a chemical package specifically for the use of UV technology, with very low VOC content, and performance in line with all OEM and regulatory standards.

Syn-Bios, strategic alliance for India and neighbouring markets

Syn-Bios SpA, a leading company in the chemical tanning industry for more than 35 years, has entered into a strategic agreement to strengthen its local presence and develop those foreign markets that have significant growth potential.

Pidilite Industries, which is among the first Asian companies in the sector and a pioneer in the Indian chemical industry, is headquartered in Mumbai and is one of the Indian economy giants, thanks to its annual turnover of around 1.5 billion euros.

Thanks to the exclusive partnership, Pidilite Industries will only represent Syn-Bios labelled products – in addition to its own – and manage their distribution in agreed markets through its established channels. Syn-Bios, on the other hand, will have to go through Pidilite channels to sell in the selected countries.

The companies aim to set new benchmarks in the industry, raise the bar higher and higher in terms of quality, as well as to offer safe and excellent products that are also sustainable.

Thanks to its constant commitment in research and development, Syn-Bios was among the first companies in the world to obtain Level 3 ZDHC certification, an aspect that certainly influenced the choice of the Indian giant; Pidilite was searching for the best quality in the chemical segment, thus it first approached Syn-Bios.

After London and New York, Lineapelle arrives in Milan

Lineapelle’s 2024 agenda opened with two important appointments that, as is now customary, anticipate the big event dedicated to leather, materials and components to be held in Milan in February.

The first event took place on 23 January at the Ham Yard Hotel: here ‘Lineapelle London’ fielded 43 exhibitors (23 Italian, 20 foreign) attracting a very specific target of visitors made up of young stylists, start-ups specialised in fashion accessories and brands looking for smart and imaginative solutions and materials.

The second step was ‘Lineapelle New York’, staged on 31 January and 1 February at the Metropolitan Pavilion in Manhattan with 111 exhibitors, of which 50 were Italian. An event that registered a good turnout of operators interested in the latest innovations in the sector.

With these assumptions we will arrive at the highlight of Lineapelle 103, scheduled at Fiera Milano Rho from 20 to 22 February, which will host some 1,150 exhibitors, in line with the February 2023 edition, from 41 countries. The event presents itself as a true creative, commercial and cultural platform that will propose an articulated list of contents and will take place in partial concurrence with the exhibitions of the Confindustria Moda galaxy, scheduled from 18 to 21 February: Micam (footwear), Mipel (leather goods), TheOneMilano (clothing).

Hong Kong, all set for the return of APLF 2024

Finally, after five years, the Asian leather fair will make its long-awaited return to Hong Kong, from 19 to 21 March 2024.

After the Dubai and Bangkok experiences, which were positive but undoubtedly different in terms of relevance and scope, Asia’s most important platform for the leather industry can return to its natural venue at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC).

A return that naturally implies an increase in expectations on the part of the international market with the crucial question being asked by every operator: will the Chinese event be able to regain the momentum and international appeal it possessed before the pandemic?

Positive signs are not lacking and the entire leather sector hopes that this will be the case because it is undoubtedly useful for everyone to be able to count on a qualified and recognised exhibition platform in such an important geographical area. The premises on the eve are certainly encouraging. The event next March has received confirmation of participation from over 20 world associations and more than 800 exhibitors.

As in the past, national groups from the following countries are planned: Brazil, China, France, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, Korea, Pakistan, Spain Taiwan, China, Thailand, Turkey, UK, USA.

Italian participation is expected to be strong with the traditional national group of tanneries (led by UNIC) and that of tannery machinery manufacturers (ASSOMAC), which also aggregates chemical auxiliary manufacturers.

Other substantial national groups, in addition to China, are represented by Brazilians, Spaniards, French, Turks, Pakistanis, Indians and Americans.

Alongside the Leather section, the event will, as always, host the Materials+ (materials and components) and Fashion Access (footwear and leather goods) areas.

Finally, as always, a dense programme of conferences, seminars and fashion trends will round off the event.