The important international trade fairs dedicated to the footwear and leather goods world and Spring Summer 2025 collections will be held from September 15 to 17 at Fieramilano (Rho).
MICAM Milan, MIPEL, TheOne and Milano Fashion & Jewels will reduce the duration of the events by 1 day.
Utility Diadora presents its latest innovation in the world of workwear: the Evolution line. Designed with cutting-edge fabrics, this collection represents a turning point in workwear, combining practicality, high performance and sophisticated design.
The Evolution line is the result of an important process of technological research, a concentration of skills and innovation that have enabled the creation of high-performance and functional garments. Each item has been designed down to the smallest detail, selecting specific and resistant fabrics to create total looks that are ergonomic and pleasant to wear.
The special multi-material construction of the new collection, combined with the study of refined weaves, guarantees the worker freedom of movement and at the same time favours better performance during professional performance. In addition, thanks to the sporty design, the worker can feel comfortable and at ease even during non-work periods of the day.
The entire collection is currently available in the best shops and on the website: https://www.diadorautility.com/it/it/
Registration for Simac Tanning Tech will open on Monday 18 March. The fair will be held in Milan from 17 to 19 September 2024 with more than 300 exhibitors presenting the latest technology for the footwear, leather goods and tanning industries.
On the occasion of the opening of applications for Simac Tanning Tech, the world’s leading exhibition dedicated to technologies for the footwear, leather goods and tanning industries, the new official logo was presented to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the event.
A modern, eye-catching design
The modern, eye-catching design retains the iconic elements of the original logo. The number ’50’ stands out in the foreground, highlighting the importance of this historic milestone for the fair.
A special edition full of innovations
The new edition of Simac Tanning Tech is set to celebrate 50 years with a special edition of the world’s leading trade fair for technology and machinery for the footwear, tanning and leather goods industries.
This special occasion will contain a number of important innovations
– Enhancement of the technological innovations presented at the fair.
– Enhanced networking initiatives and celebration of SIMAC TANNING TECH’s 50th anniversary.
– Setting up of a technology exhibition that will retrace the history of the sector: a fascinating journey through the evolution of the industry and its future.
– New opportunities for stand customisation.
For more information: www.simactanningtech.it
You can access the Virtual Showroom via computer or mobile phone. Through the Virtual Showroom section in the top menu of the website, or by clicking here, it is, in fact, possible to access and visit all the spaces of the Studio Auriga headquarters, and in particular, to virtually walk around the showroom, set up with Tajima single-head and multi-head embroidery machines, GMI systems for laser cutting and engraving, the prestigious Makò Aurifil cotton threads. By approaching each of them, you can see the details and access other information materials, such as videos, images and technical data sheets.
AurigaAcademy, for training on industrial embroidery, and the Tajima Software departments are also virtually accessible.
For Studio Auriga, always being one step ahead is an existential mission. Technical excellence, contained in our payoff, is not built only by presenting the best-performing machinery on the market but also by providing cutting-edge services aligned with the needs of our time. We are proud to be able to benefit from the most inclusive technologies, such as virtual reality, to make the world of embroidery as accessible as possible.
The Virtual Showroom certainly does not replace the physical experience consolidated over many years of work. To use all the instruments live and carry out tests and prototypes in total confidentiality and supported by a dedicated team, physical access to the showroom located in Solaro (Milan) is always possible upon reservation.
Inaugurated a couple of years ago, the new Dermacolor headquarters in Castelfranco di Sotto (Pisa) is a perfect combination of aesthetics and functionality. The approximately five thousand covered square metres that were added to the pre-existing plant were used to offer new elegant reception areas, expand the production departments, enlarge the warehouse and extend all the in-house research laboratories. This was not just an extension, but a complete reorganisation of the spaces, which were revised with a view to an all-round relaunch of the business.
If in the part open to visitors, the large showroom housing the latest leather collection for S/S 25 stands out, located next to the ultra-modern meeting room with its huge windows, in the internal departments what strikes the eye is the large area dedicated to the application and analysis laboratories, which represent the real heart of the company.
“We have considerably enlarged the space allocated to the laboratories,” explain Valentina and Viola Palagini with Andrea and Marco Meucci, the four young managers who now run the company founded in 1981 on the initiative of their respective parents. In particular, the analysis laboratory has been enlarged and even tripled the space for the laboratory dedicated to finishing products. The latter is also the symbol of the company’s new direction, which aims to offer customers the complete chemical service package, from the wet phase to finishing. “In the last few years, we have dedicated a great deal of effort to finishing, investing in a dedicated production plant and creating a good working team, made up of technicians and researchers, who collaborate daily with the group that deals with the wet phase in the development of ever new articles,” explain the company managers.
Development and research, after all, have always been the company’s fuels: Dermacolor has become a fundamental point of reference in the Tuscan tanning district and beyond. In recent years, in spite of the situation of uncertainty that dominates the sector and the increase in the cost of raw materials and transport that is reducing margins and causing great concern, the Tuscan company has managed to grow, even abroad, reaping the benefits of an activity always carried out with the utmost commitment and great professionalism.
What does research at Dermacolor focus on today?
“Our R&D departments are always working to find innovative solutions that can meet market demands, starting with lowering the bisphenol content in all our synthetic tannins. In general, both at the barrel and finishing product level, we are focusing a lot on the development of green products with a high percentage of bio-based components that can offer excellent technical performance, particularly with regard to lightfastness and PVC. And then we always try to anticipate problems, eliminating all those substances that are not banned today but could be in the future, studying and experimenting with safer alternatives”.
Regarding the wet phase of leather processing, what are your latest successes?
“Without going into the merits of individual products, we can mention the new glutaraldehyde-free white tans that offer very interesting results. Also very important is the enzymatic liming with hair recovery that considerably reduces the pollution load of the leather depilation process. This is a real innovation that is beginning to take hold in the sector, even if it involves a change in processing procedures and therefore takes time to be accepted and implemented by tanneries”.
What are the latest challenges in the area of finishing?
“In this area, the key word is always leather upgrading, a crucial factor for the market grappling with a raw material that does not always meet demand. Here the research is continuous and today we have absolutely transparent defect masking systems that leave the leather extremely soft”.
Let’s talk about certifications. Where do you stand?
“At Dermacolor, we care about using products that are as safe as possible and we have always endeavoured to prove this by first complying with the 9001 and 14001 Certifications, then the Reach Regulation and finally the requirements of ZDHC. Today we have around 300 products certified to ZDHC level 3 (the highest) with more to follow soon”.
There has been talk of the LCA of chemical products, another demand that will soon reach chemical producers from tanneries. What do you think about it?
“It is a complex issue. Obviously sustainability needs scientific data to prove its concreteness and avoid accusations of greenwashing. From this point of view, the Life Cycle Assessment of Chemicals (LCA) is one of the tools needed to calculate the environmental impact of leather. This is why with UNPAC we are participating in a project to develop a system for calculating the LCA of chemical products together with experts from Spin 360. The idea is to develop a tool that will allow us to provide this calculation without spending a fortune, because all these requests end up representing increasingly onerous additional costs for our industry”.
BOX
Distribution agreement with ICAP Leatherchem
Dermacolor has just signed a distribution agreement with ICAP Leatherchem, a company based in Lainate (Milan) that produces a complete range of quality products such as acrylic and polyurethane resins, urethane-acrylic copolymers, lacquers, etc. “This is an advantageous agreement for both companies because we know the local market and they allow us to expand our offer with products that we do not have, such as acrylic and polyurethane resins,” explain Dermacolor.
Despite a difficult market context, this early 2024 sees the Tuscan company AS Green Technology working at full speed. Specialising in the production of a wide range of leather drying and conditioning systems, as well as overhead conveyors, automatic loaders and more, the company based in Montopoli in Val d’Arno (Pisa) is reaping the benefits of an activity that officially began only four years ago, but strengthened by experience that comes from much further afield. In August 2020, forced by events, the young entrepreneur Filippo Sani decided to set up a new company where he was able to transfer – and then increase – the know-how he had acquired by working for several years alongside his father, who had died prematurely, bringing with him a small group of highly experienced former colleagues who believed in him. In just a few years, this young entrepreneur has earned the trust of the market through determination and foresight.
In just a few years, AS Green Technology has carved out an important share of the market. Can we make a small assessment?
“We are very satisfied with the road travelled so far. We have worked hard and today we can safely say that our customers include several prestigious tanneries working in both the fashion and automotive sectors. Italian and foreign companies that have evidently found in us a suitable technological partner. In addition, we also have customers from outside the industry with our automatic handling and transport lines”.
What do customers appreciate most?
“The market seems to appreciate competence and flexibility, which in short means being able to listen to requests, analyse them and develop proposals in line with the tannery’s needs. And then the quality of the technological offer, cutting-edge from all points of view and always tailor-made for the specific reality for which it is intended. We are like tailors: the level of customisation of the systems is our distinguishing feature. Another of our trump cards is the fact that we work in synergy with a number of specialised suppliers; we have built a network that allows us to make the production process more efficient by relying on other manufacturers for certain parts of the systems, thus saving time and costs”.
How do your technologies differ?
“The adjective ‘green’ in our company name communicates a fundamental concept, namely that our plants are designed to work with environmentally friendly cycles by reducing energy consumption, processing times and emissions, while maintaining high quality levels. Our plants can be completely independent of any classical supply lines, such as steam, gas, hot water. Where possible, we use renewable electricity produced by photovoltaic plants and, thanks to conversion systems, we are able to guarantee process temperatures appropriate to the type of articulation”.
You were among the first to propose virtual reality. How is it going?
“It is a very popular tool. Virtual reality offers an extraordinary immersive experience, allowing you to experience the entire machining process in 360°. We use it both in the commercial phase, because it helps customers better understand the technologies, and for after-sales assistance where it has proved very useful, especially abroad, to help diagnose faults and malfunctions”.
What does 2024 look like?
“The tanning sector is suffering at the moment and so there is some uncertainty. As far as we are concerned, looking at the orders already in house, I tend to be confident that the company can match and even surpass the results of a very positive 2023”.
Plans for the future?
“We are the leader of an important research project on the drying and conditioning of leather, which involves various players but of which it is still too early to give details. We will talk about this later”.
It is still six months away but people are already starting to talk about Simac Tanning Tech 2024.
The international exhibition of technology for footwear, leather goods and tanning will celebrate its 50th anniversary with a special edition to be held in Rho Fiera Milano from 17 to 19 September 2024. The event, which will bring together more than 300 exhibitors from all over the world, will be an opportunity to celebrate the past and look to the future of an ever-evolving sector. As always organised by Assomac, the fair will feature a series of events and exhibitions that will delve into the latest trends in the leather industry, technological innovations and environmental challenges. The main events, which are currently being defined, include: an exhibition on leather technology that will retrace the history of the sector; networking initiatives and workshops as an opportunity for operators in the sector to meet and exchange ideas, focus on specific topics such as sustainability, creativity and technology, and finally the highlighting of the best technological innovations. The fair will also be an opportunity to foster networking between industry players. Meetings, conferences and seminars will be organised to discuss the latest innovations and share experiences.
“We are proud to celebrate 50 years of Simac Tanning Tech,” said Maria Vittoria Brustia, President of Assomac and Simac Tanning Tech. “This trade fair is a benchmark for the footwear, leather goods and tanning technology sector and we are convinced that this special edition will be a unique opportunity for discussion and sharing.”
The organisers expect to fully occupy both pavilions 14 and 18 of Fiera Milano Rho, exceeding 300 exhibitors. Many expressions of interest have been received in recent months from companies that have never attended the fair before. In addition, numerous visitors and delegations of international buyers are expected thanks to the support of ICE-Agency. Registration will soon officially open for exhibiting companies to take part in the 50th edition of Simac Tanning Tech.
For more information, visit the website: www.simactanningtech.
In recent years, some stakeholders in the fashion and automotive industries are questioning the circularity paradigm at the heart of the tanning sector, i.e. that tanneries are processors of a by-product of the food industry with consequent environmental benefits. Studies such as “Circumfauna” on the initiative of Collective Fashion Justice, conclude, in fact, that from a sustainability point of view it is more convenient not to process the hides and skins, but to send them to landfill and replace them with alternative materials (e.g. synthetics) [1].
As is well known, from the raw hides and skins resulting from slaughtering, only a part is destined for leather processing; the layers that cannot be ennobled through tanning processes are used in other industrial sectors for the production of, for example, gelatines, products for cosmetics or agriculture (fertilisers). As reported in the “Business case” published by the Markets Institute (World Wildlife Fund – WWF) [3], if raw hides and skins were not recovered for leather production, their disposal in landfills would result in the release of greenhouse gases [3] such as carbon dioxide and methane, with consequent impact on the environment. The non-reuse of raw hides, conversely, would result in the production of alternative upholstery materials. Such materials are often identified as vegan ‘skins’, in many cases produced from plastic, i.e. raw materials derived from fossil fuels [3].
The question to be answered is: is leather production actually a process with a positive environmental balance? Or is it more cost-effective to replace it with alternative materials and dispose of raw hides and skins in landfills after slaughter?
This question has already been answered in the article ‘Would it really be better to let hides rot than turn them into leather? No…” by Leather Trade House published on its website leatheruk.org [2]. In the article, the calculation on carbon dioxide emissions performed by Circumfauna [1] is taken up, correcting some values of CO2 emitted by considering the real weight of raw hides and taking into account the formation of methane in the degradation processes of hides in landfills.
In terms of the balance of CO2 emitted, the lack of tanning of part of the raw hides and skins would entail the substitution of the leather with an alternative material and the disposal of the hides and skins, i.e. we would have to compare the CO2 emitted for tanning production with the sum of the CO2 deriving from the production of the alternative material and that from disposal. Going into the details of the values (excluding for simplicity’s sake emissions from livestock farming, which would always be present) and considering as valid the balance that only takes into account the portion of raw hide used in tanning processes, the values of CO2 [2] emitted for landfill disposal, synthetic leather production [1] and leather production are as follows:
– Emissions from landfill of leather: 4.08 – 8.78 kg CO2e/m2 [2]
– Emissions from synthetic leather production: 15.8 kg CO2e/m2 [1].
– Emissions from leather production: 7.0 – 17.0 kg CO2e/m2
In the data reported for landfill emissions, the maximum value of 8.78 kg CO2e takes into account the impact of methane production in the degradation process of the landfilled leather. Furthermore, the value reported in the Circumfauna study on CO2 emissions is higher than the value calculated by SSIP in some studies carried out on typical tanneries for the production of automotive metal free leather and chrome leather for footwear, for which actual emissions between 7.0 and 11 kg CO2e/m2 were found. A comparison of leather production with the proposed alternative of landfilling and substitution with other coating material is schematically presented in Table 1, including minimum and maximum values for disposal and leather production data.
PROCESS CO2e/m2 (min) CO2e/m2 (max)
Landfilling 4.08 8.78
Alternative synthetic production 15.80 15.80
19.88 24.58
Leather production 7.0 17.0
Once again, it appears that tanning is indeed a process with environmental benefits. Add to this, as stated in the Markets Institute’s Business Case [3], that from the point of view of circularity, leather can be recycled and reused and has superior durability compared to many synthetic alternatives.
by Ing. Rosario Mascolo, Technical-Scientific Coordinator Product Development Department SSIP
Contributors: Dr. Gianluigi Calvanese – Dr. Marco Nogarole
[1] https://circumfauna.org/leather-carbon-footprint
[2] https://leatheruk.org/would-it-really-be-better-to-let-hides-rot-than-turn-them-into-leather-no/
[3] https://files.worldwildlife.org/wwfcmsprod/files/Publication/file/3gs7vgqvmc_DCF_Leather_Business_Case_10_22_v4.pdf
As of 1 January 2024, Joan Carles Castell is the new president of IULTCS – International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies, the supranational body that brings together leather chemicals associations from around the world. According to its statute, the objectives of IULTCS are to promote cooperation between member associations, organise congresses to push the industry forward, set up commissions to investigate specific issues and establish international methods for testing and analysis.
Founded 126 years ago, over time the Union of Tanning Technicians has organised 37 international congresses in 20 different countries on all continents; the most recent took place in Chengdu, China, in October 2023. The next one will be in Europe, specifically in Lyon, France, in September 2025.
Newly appointed President Castell generously granted ARS Tannery an all-round interview addressing all the hot topics in the industry.
What are the guidelines of your presidency?
“The historical record shows us the success of the activities that IULTCS has carried out in the 126 years since its foundation. Leather technology has been evolving all those long years with the needs of the industry, continually re-inventing a craft that began in prehistory. IULTCS has played a leading role as a platform for chemists and technicians who specialize in leather manufacturing to exchange their knowledge. The technical commissions created by IULTCS have been generating standards that facilitate international trade.
Inspired by the past but looking to the future, three of my goals for the next years will be:
* A detailed review and update of the Statutes and Internal Regulations to ensure that the governing documents align with new scenarios. These are both opportunities such as forms of communication and digitalization, or threats, with associations that see their resources limited with the relocation of tanneries to other regions.
* Empowering the role of the IULTCS Commissions, both to boost their effectiveness and to explore the establishment of a new commission for sustainability. This commission will address the emerging challenges and work to drive positive change within the industry.
* And, of course, the XXXVIII IULTCS Congress to be hold in September 2025 in Lyon, France”.
What aspects/issues are closest to your heart?
Personally, this year I will celebrate 50 years as a dedicated leather industry professional. I remember in the 80s that as a young sales technician visiting tanneries, my boss at a leather dye company that I worked for advised me to look at the color of the river to see the dyes I had to sell. Today, this is unimaginable. Later, we began to provide simple safety data sheets and some chemical substances began to be restricted. It has been hard work ever since then to keep pushing through changes, but they were needed. Today I look at our industry, the tanneries, the chemical supplies, the machinery and the engineering as an example of modernity, high technology and sustainability. It all combines to give value to a noble, resistant and irreplaceable material created by nature.
I and many colleagues around the world have dedicated our lives to leather because we know how this industry accepts the challenges from environmental issues, the creation of new leather articles, enabling innovations in fashion, and improving tannery performance. We overcome them with constant innovations in technology, safety, and sustainability.
IULTCS represents to me many things that are both close to my heart and that motivate and commit me. In the next two years it will be my task and my honor to see that IULTCS carries on and increases its technical and scientific support for this exemplary industry”.
The leather sector is facing difficult challenges, from economic uncertainty to environmental changes. How do you see the international situation?
“Since I was involved in leather, the tanning industry has been always facing difficult challenges. So, what is new if it has always worked hard and overcame all adversities and uncertainties? I am probably overly optimistic, but the history proves it. Even though, new environments are going to require new efforts, and solutions that worked in the past are not a guarantee for the future. Environmental regulations present difficult challenges for the tanneries, but other challenges come from administrations, brands, the automotive industry, and even consumers influenced by media outlets with questionable interests. These challenges and other ones that we can’t foresee now will have to be faced and addressed head-on. Many shortsighted people can’t see that exchanging leather, a byproduct of the meat industry, for plastic replacements made from petrochemicals is a bad deal for the earth and everything that lives there. It is our task to educate them.
It is clear that new materials can work better than leather for specific purposes. We have known this since the beginning of the textile industry. However, leather is a unique material that can’t be replaced in all areas. Nobody wants woolen boot soles or leather socks. I am sure that the path towards a circular economy, the demand for natural products, the valorization of by-products and durable items fit into a world that already suffers from pollution and global warming”.
How do you see the near future of the tanning industry?
“I believe that in a few years the tanning industry will be restructured. In recent decades it migrated to countries with low production costs. Today, tanning technologies have evolved, especially in the reduction of odors and pollution. The market has become much more demanding, requiring tight control of the price and the quality of raw materials. All these factors, plus the volatility of international transportation prices, may make the industry return to more developed countries. That is my vision”.
What are the technical challenges?
“From a technical point of view, I believe that there are two challenges that the leather industry will face soon, or maybe now: first, while it is important to remind the public that tanneries take advantage of a by-product derived from the meat industry, there is no denying that leather manufacturing also generates a lot of waste. We need to develop a rapid response for improving wastewater loads, valorization of solid waste starting with collagen, and improving the compostability of finished articles so that they can return to nature in the form of fertilizers for agriculture or other applications. The second challenge, and no less important, is the reduction of chemical products used in the manufacture of leather, especially those synthesized from petroleum derivatives. Biotechnology already plays an important role, and many alternatives are now viable with natural products.
At a commercial level, this industry has always been cyclical, going from “boom” to “bust” with depressing regularity. I think these cycles are going to be shorter and will have an impact on the business”.
In your message at the beginning of the year, you announce the need to stimulate international research and the training of young people. How do you plan to do this?
“As I already mentioned, in the next two years we will review and improve the IULTCS commissions, including the IUT (training) and the IUR (research). These commissions will meet soon to establish an action plan. Encouraging young scientists to enter the leather industry is one of the most important functions of the IULTCS, and I will do all that I can to continue that outreach. For years, we have been mentoring and awarding young scientists by initiatives such as the YLGS thanks to the generous collaboration of member and no-member companies. We will always be grateful for this sponsorship. We will continue supporting global collaboration between our experienced members, international research centers, industry partners and emerging talent to ensure as seamless a transfer of knowledge as possible. The training of tannery staff is essential for the proper development of the industry, both in the technical aspect and in the safety and hygiene framework. Collaboration with institutions such as UNIDO, Universities, and Technology Centers will be very important in the coming years and their training programs must be recognized by the IULTCS”.
One of the big problems in the sector is the fake news spread on social media. Can this phenomenon be countered from a scientific point of view?
“As I have said before, leather is an irreplaceable material and positive communication is necessary to make sure the public knows what is leather and what is not leather. Leather comes from a natural and renewable material, made by a complex structure of fibers, fibrils and protein chains that form the collagen. This provides leather with properties incomparable to other materials, such as its physical resistance and breathability, among others. Its beauty, softness and touch obtained in tanneries cannot be compared with any other material. Leather can only come from the skin of animals that provide us with food. Use of the word of “leather” to other materials imply that they have the same properties as leather, and this kind of disinformation needs to be combatted.
Therefore, yes, scientific arguments should be used to counter fake news. As an example, the determination of C14. Some IULTCS members have been working on these tests that demonstrate that many of the materials wrongly named leather are not biobased or derived from renewable resources but from petrochemistry.
We also can measure and point out the environmental impact on landfills if hides and skins were not processed in the tanneries and make the case that leather is a natural storage unit for biogenetic carbon.
But in the end, I must insist that the best strategy to counter fakes is to positively promote leather and leather products. IULTCS and its members should always be available to support the industry”.
What role can IULTCS play in promoting responsible practices along the leather value chain?
“In fact, this is the whole aim of the IULTCS, because scientific innovations and knowledge exchanges are unthinkable if they do not entail, at the same time, substantial improvements in responsible practices. Our congresses and regional and national conventions include more than just tanneries and chemical or machinery suppliers. Every link of the leather value chain is invited to participate actively in such events. Many members of the associations in the IULTCS participate or are members of many organizations like LGW, LN, SLF”.
The next IULTCS Congress will be held in Lyon (France) in September 2025. Has the main theme/title already been decided?
“First, I would like to recognize the great success and organization of the last 2023 XXXVII IULTCS Congress in Chengdu. The organizing committee has started to work on the preparation of this important even and they will shortly communicate what the congress will focus on. Lyon is a magnificent place to hold the 2025 XXXVIII IULTCS Congress and I would like to invite the readers to collaborate and participate. With the involvement of the AFICTIC and the CTC I have no doubt of a new success for the IULTCS”.
Giovanna Ceolini, who was confirmed as President of Assocalzaturifici by the Assembly of associates held on 7 March 2024, will remain in office as President until June 2027.
“A challenging job awaits us. We must respond to a difficult economic situation, in a geopolitical framework dominated by uncertainty, with initiatives and projects that support our companies on international markets. Today, more than ever, it is important to put the interests of the sector and therefore our Association back at the centre”.
Flanking the President, Giuseppe Baiardo, Vice President for Training and Orientation, Luisa Benigno, Vice President for Business Culture and Production Strategies, Giuseppe Camerlengo Vice President for International Affairs, and Valentino Fenni Vice President for Russia, C.S.I. Area, and Made in Italy.
Ceolini highlighted the most salient aspects of her programme, from internationalisation, to continue to promote footwear Made in Italy in the world, consolidating mature markets and seeking new opportunities in emerging ones, to collaboration with leading technical institutes and vocational schools to encourage generational turnover.
Other objectives include the valorisation of subcontracting companies, better known as CDMO (contract development and manufacturing organisation), to defend the traditional craftsmanship of Italian manufacturing.
Among the projects in the pipeline are the reorganisation of MICAM’s pavilions, the strengthening of the MICAMX area, with a focus on seminar content, the section dedicated to the retail of the future, communication and events.
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