Arsutoria Studio
ArsTannery Magazine

BARNINI, the future of finishing is in automation

Active since 1965, Barnini srl is an important world reference in the design and construction of leather spraying plants, to which over time presses for ironing and embossing leather have been added through the Mostardini brand acquired many years ago. The most recent branch of activity is robotics, developed through the BRS division ‘Barnini Robot System’. We spoke about this and more at the end of January with brothers Matteo and Lorenzo Simoni, the two young managers at the helm of the mechanical company in Castelfranco di Sotto (Pisa), which has made investment in Research and Development its strong point, aiming to offer its customers tailor-made solutions capable of optimising the leather processing.

You presented your first robots at Tanning Tech 2022, arousing great interest among tanneries. You have come a long way since then…

“We were the first to succeed in getting robots to carry out the operation of loading hides onto machines, undoubtedly a repetitive and onerous operation for workers. We have worked very hard on this project, as proven by the various patents we have filed, and today we are very satisfied with the results obtained so far, both technological and commercial”.

What problems have you encountered?

“The first prototype was born in our R&D laboratory for whole automotive hides. With the experience gained from the first robot, we were able to meet further requirements dictated by the type of leather, its softness and the space available. Today, we are able to handle the various types of leather on both trestle and flatbed. The BRS division has also realised a robotic spraying line called ART for painting leather panels for ready-to-wear fashion. This system allows finishes that are not possible on traditional spraying equipment”.

What kind of tanneries are interested in including robots in the processing cycle?

“There is a lot of interest in the market, especially from tanneries producing automotive leathers where large production runs are normally made. The robots used to load the hides onto the automotive equipment allow two people per machine per shift to be freed, thus offering significant labour savings. For the whole of 2023, we worked exclusively for the Pasubio tannery, which asked to absorb all possible production and where we gained a lot of experience. Now we are opening up to the market”.

Turning to the finishing plants, what’s new?

“We have installed a new, large spraying plant in our in-house workshop. A fully automatic line equipped, of course, with a robot for loading the hides, an automatic product dosing system, an infrared drying tunnel with a continuous rope cleaning system, and finally an automatic stacker. This is a line that requires no personnel to operate, except to programme and set up the work. Next to this system, we will soon be installing a major innovation, which we will talk about later”.

From your point of view, what are the remaining challenges?

“For our part, we aim to further develop automation. It is essential to keep all processing parameters under control in order to guarantee repeatable results. At the same time, we are always listening, because another fundamental issue is the customisation of the plants: every tannery has its own particular requirements depending on the type of product”.

How did 2023 go and how does the new year look?

“2023 went well: we recorded 15% growth compared to 2022 and 50% more than in 2021, and we have orders that cover us for a good part of this year. But there is no shortage of worries for the future, because production in the main Italian districts has slowed down in recent months and there is great uncertainty with regard to international market trends”.

GSC Group, sustainable and circular leathers with OMW technology

There is growing automotive market interest in OMW (Olive Mill Wastewater) technology, which exploits the tanning power of olive oil vegetation water, a waste by-product of olive pressing.

“The tanning system based on the internationally patented OMW technology is completely metal-free and results in automotive interior leathers that offer performance comparable to those obtained from traditional tanning. It is therefore a perfect alternative without compromising on the quality, performance or appearance of the finished leather”

The rationale behind the project that led GSC Group to develop an ad-hoc product line is the reuse of by-products of the agro-food industry that would otherwise have to be disposed of in sewage treatment plants. Olive mill wastewaters, in fact, although free of pathogens, heavy metals and viruses, are harmful to the environment due to their high levels of acidity and their anti-microbial and phytotoxic power. But it is precisely these characteristics that make them interesting for the tanning industry, which moreover, by using waste from another industrial sector, realises a perfect example of circular economy.

“We believe that transparency of information is crucial for building trust and lasting relationships; therefore, we have created a frequently asked questions (FAQ) section on OMW technology on our website. This section provides comprehensive and detailed answers to the most common questions we are asked.”

https://www.gscgroup.it/faq

The magic of cinema in the Dermacolor 2024 calendar

All the magic of cinema in Dermacolor’s 2024 calendar. The Cal 2024 is a tribute to international cult movies, where the characteristic “cow in leather” symbol of the Tuscan leather chemicals brand is the protagonist of some of the most famous posters of international cinema, such as Kill Bill, Titanic, Back to the Future, Harry Potter and Star Wars.

112 plates created by the artist Noemi Vignozzi who used the new digital illustration technique. An innovative choice that reflects the “Unleash your creativity” project, born in 2020 to communicate the ability of Dermacolor to make concrete the ideas and requests of tanneries thanks to its specialised technical staff, its research and analysis laboratories, and its entire structure that always works in line with the rules on environmental sustainability and safety at work.

The exhibition ‘Unleash your creativity – The Cal 2024’ has been set up in the meeting room of the new Dermacolor headquarters, where it is possible to admire the 12 installations of the calendar up close.

Stahl expands ZDHC level 3-certified portfolio

Stahl, the German world leader in speciality coatings and treatments for flexible substrates, also very much involved in the development of increasingly sustainable leather chemicals, has achieved Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) MRSL 3.1 Gateway certification for 2,151 products in its portfolio. This achievement underlines Stahl’s ongoing commitment to the ZDHC mission of achieving the highest standards for sustainable chemical management.

ZDHC certification enables companies working in the footwear, apparel and accessories value chains to demonstrate their commitment to responsible chemical management, with the ultimate goal being zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. Level 3 certification represents the highest level of conformity with the ZDHC certification programme. To achieve this, Stahl’s formulated chemical products and raw materials were verified and tested against ZDHC’s latest Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL 3.1) by Eurofins | Chem-MAP®. The Chem-MAP® programme was also used to audit the chemical management and stewardship processes at three of Stahl’s manufacturing sites.

“This latest expansion of our ZDHC-compliant portfolio is another key milestone in our journey towards sustainable chemical management. We will continue to work tirelessly with our value chain partners to achieve the ZDHC vision: a world in which better chemistry leads to the protection of life, land and water”.

Michael Costello, Group Director Environmental, Social & Governance di Stahl

IPR, a virtuous and concrete path towards sustainability

The UNI/PdR 134:2022 Guidelines mark a turning point for small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in the field of sustainability. By introducing a rating system from 1 to 5, these guidelines offer SMEs a practical tool to assess their commitment to sustainability, ranging from ‘Insufficient’ to ‘Excellent’.

A case in point is IPR S.p.A., which achieved a rating of 4, confirming a deep commitment and well-defined strategies for sustainable management. This result not only reflects the seriousness of IPR S.p.A.’s approach, but also stimulates the entire supply chain to adopt more sustainable practices.

More info ath this link

Apego, a long history that translates into experience

Almost 60 years of history in the world of footwear moulds, this is the remarkable wealth of experience that Apego makes available to the market.

Founded in 1966 by Angelo Montagna (still active in the company despite having recently turned 90) and two other partners, Apego became, at the beginning of the last decade of the last century, wholly owned by the Montagna family.

A reference point in the high-tech sector of footwear moulds, it has counted the most important national and international companies among its customers for many years. Apego found a home in Cilavegna (in the province of Pavia), successfully inserted itself in the Vigevano area and immediately specialized in the footwear sector, making steel and aluminum moulds for compression rubber.

The 1970s defined the character of the company, which focused on specialization, through the use of precision machinery, and the development of the foreign market. At that time Apego began to make its way in the industry by working with materials such as PVC and TR, which allowed more complex shapes to be moulded with the help of innovative techniques and thanks to electroforming machinery that enabled finishes that were unthinkable at the time.

Today, in addition to the Montagna family, about forty people are employed in the company. Highly skilled employees and advanced technologies represent the perfect partnership to interact with customers during all stages of mould making, from design development to manufacturing, and to provide a complete service: consulting, CAD/CAM design, rapid prototyping, CNC machining, and mould testing.

Apego, today, exports about 85 percent of its production to more than 30 countries. Mainly Europe, North, Central and South America, Asia and the Pacific. It has a loyal customer base thanks to a corporate philosophy that preaches scrupulous attention to every single detail.

Not just uppers for Sneaknit

Sneaknit is increasingly positioning itself at the center of supply chain innovation. The company’s extraordinary versatility, the result of the combination of advanced production capacity and in-depth distinctive know-how, has led to success fueled by the ability to choose the optimal machine and yarn, adapting them to the specific needs of each customer. Precisely the wide and diverse range of machinery includes flat solutions ideal for panel production, just as 3D technology machines are perfect for intricate and detailed process.

It is precisely customers who entrust Sneaknit with the most complex projects, recognizing their high level of expertise in even the most challenging machining operations. “Our team of highly skilled programmers and technicians – say the company – guides each process with precision, advising the customer in choosing the most suitable yarn and machine for each project.”

Through an end-to-end approach in the production process, an end result that exceeds expectations is guaranteed, turning every detail into a key element in the successful development of a wide range of products. Sneaknit stands out for its dedication to uncompromising excellence and ability to translate customers’ visions into flawless and exclusive creations.

Luigi Carnevali: customer service, quality and sustainability

The history of Luigi Carnevali is rooted far back in time, even to the early 1900s, when it appeared on the market specializing in the production and sale of buckles, seals and embroidery, the latter being particularly popular in the 1920s and 1930s.

Since the 1960s, the company, based in Buccinasco, in the province of Milan, has specialized in the marketing of thermoadhesive and self-adhesive reinforcements for the footwear and, later, the leather goods industry.

The quality of the products and the attention and closeness to the customer soon lead Luigi Carnevali to become a partner of such prestigious brands and maisons as Bottega Veneta, Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Christian Louboutin.

As well as distinguishing itself for being a company that is always in step with the times, able to offer customers cutting-edge items, such as gutta-percha, an exclusive material made from natural and incredibly breathable rubber, which Luigi Carnevali introduced as a pioneer in Italy and of which he is still a dealer, used to reinforce leather.

In 2017 Luigi Carnevali S.a.s. completed a merger with its sister company Resinoll, which specializes in the sale of thermoadhesive reinforcements for clothing. This is an important merger, which allows the company to offer customers a truly complete, all-around range of products, ranging from reinforcements for footwear and leather goods to leather and fabric clothing.

“The merger with our sister company Resinoll has allowed us to take advantage of the synergies between the various divisions and build on the know-how and expertise we have gained in different sectors, such as accessories versus apparel. So, for example, if in apparel we have imported more structured materials where it was required, in footwear we have introduced lighter and more invisible reinforcing materials, to the great satisfaction of our most demanding customers. Without a doubt, this ‘migration of skills’ has led us to have better and better results in all the areas in which we operate.”

Corplast: competence and professionalism since 1973

Founded in 1973 offering TPR and PVC printed soles in black and brown, Corplast first established itself in the nascent Fermano-Maceratese footwear district and then in the main European and international footwear markets. Over time, the range of materials and solutions has expanded to meet the needs of the fashion sector, and the technical difficulty and sophistication of the solutions proposed has increased, as has the number of articles in the catalogue that can be moulded using injection moulding machines. A catalogue that today boasts over 2000 articles that can be selected and moulded in 6 families of materials: TPR, TPU, PU, EVA, EvolGum and Rubflex, available in standard, translucent, expanded, rubberised and metallised colours.

The fashion sector has always been the driving force behind Corplast’s productions, so much so that it has guaranteed the company the trust of important Italian and international brands, but the Safety & Sport sector is also growing, where the materials proposed – first and foremost TPU – are ideal for the production of footwear and inserts for the high-end safety and sport world. The special TPU compounds are also naturally non-slip and ideal for resisting oil and abrasion, in full compliance with the mandatory minimum requirements for safety footwear.

Lastly, Corplast dedicates constant attention to sustainability, operating according to the 3Rs – Reduce, Reuse & Recycle, following the Circularity of Materials and the Traceability of the Supply Chain, to offer 4 lines of materials that at the same time maintain the quality of the finished product: GRS-certified TPR with recycled percentage content from the recovery of TPR waste. GRS-certified TPU with recycled percentage content from recovered TPU waste. EVA with percentage content of third-generation bio-based EVA* (using organisms independent of the human food source). EVA with percentage content of regenerated EVA from the recovery of production waste.

Bramac: growing made in Italy

We met Alessandro Bracalente, a volcanic entrepreneur from the Marche region, the second generation of the Bramac company, founded 60 years ago by his father Masiero. He receives us together with his daughter Ginevra, an honors degree from Milan, work experience in a company of a large luxury group, who recently joined the family business to carry on, together with her brother Diego, the growth projects on which Bramac is working.

The first question is on the most recent news, Bramac’s entry into the capital of CMCI, another historic company in the footwear technology sector. Can you tell us about the planning behind this choice?

“CMCI is an excellence in our area, specializing for more than 40 years in the production of sewing machines for the footwear industry, led by Mario Brutti, an entrepreneur with an uncommon passion for designing and manufacturing high-quality machines. It is clear how positive the synergy between the two companies can be: we at Bramac bring a widespread presence to customers, especially factories working with the big luxury maisons, which, every day, we work alongside to understand their needs and to propose the best technological and organizational solutions: we help them implement their development plans. In CMCI, on the other hand, they know how to find ingenious solutions to make technologies that perform complex operations simple, as in the best Italian tradition.”

Apparently a change of course for Bramac, which, for many years now, has had its machines built in the Far East…

“We have been working with China for more than 20 years, an extraordinary country in terms of its ability to build products, even those with high technological content. Our policy towards China has always been to work only with the best companies and to protect our technologies by filing patents for our innovations in China itself. The investment made, acquiring 50 percent of CMCI’s capital, is the result of the conviction that in many countries of the world, not only in Italy, there is market space for Made in Italy technology, whose excellence is still recognized today. Moreover, this partnership allows us to create a short chain of innovation, to react even more quickly to the needs emerging in the sector.”

Bramac and CMCI have always boasted a strong specialization in the sewing sector; how do you think this production stage has transformed and what are the priorities for Made in Italy companies?

“In recent years we have witnessed volume growth in the production of footwear for luxury brands. The sewing department needs to be rethought for two main reasons: the first is that we need to be able to bring production sewing back to Italy by organizing it efficiently. Flexibility is a decisive aspect, and the department must be able to operate by optimizing time and work organization. The other aspect concerns ergonomics and, in general, the well-being of people within the workplace: there is great attention at the moment, on the part of leading companies, to the quality of the work environment. A sewing’s station is becoming more and more like an office desk. A key commitment, especially to attract young people to work in factories.”

With so many years of experience behind you, how do you see the future of Made in Italy?

“Bernard Arnault himself said that Italy is the only place where you can make artisanal product at an industrial level. We must preserve our savoir-faire and the unsurpassed talent of our workers to make quality even while challenging complexity. Those who make shoes for the big brands are confronted every single day with challenges given by complicated patterns and ever new and different materials. Our future is not producing the standard; they can do that in China much better than we can and at lower cost. Hyper-specialization of people is not the right strategy: the key word in Italy is versatility and the ability to adapt to a changing context. Our strength, as Italians, has always been to master the chaos around us and find extraordinary opportunities in contexts in which other nations, even those close to us, see only confusion.”

So, best of luck to this new Bramac-CMCI team and the challenges ahead.

“In our view there is a great opportunity in our industry, especially for those of us who live immersed in an industrial sector that is still very much alive and still expanding. Our international competitors operate in many different industries and in my opinion have somewhat lost that ability to make strategic choices from the valuable information that only comes from extensive and direct relationships with those on the front lines in the factories. Perhaps today limited size is our greatest point of weakness. The decision to aggregate excellent realities goes precisely in the direction of that growth that is an indispensable condition for conducting ever better research and innovation. Of course, always remaining at the side of our customers and accompanying them on their growth path.”