Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Studio

Debuts “BAREFOOT – EUROPEAN SHOE FAIR”

A new fair dedicated to barefoot footwear, a growing phenomenon, is born and promises to give new impetus to the industry. The fair will be held in Germany, in the halls of Messe Offenbach, from July 31 to August 3, 2025. About 60 German and international exhibitors are expected to attend the first edition. The assortment will include barefoot shoes for men, women and children. The first two days the fair is exclusively for trade visitors, while on the remaining days the event will also be open to end consumers.

Carl-August Seibel, president of HDS/L, said about the new fair, “We are creating a cool platform for a cool community. HDS/L is the right partner and Messe Offenbach, with its central location, is the best location. I also find it very exciting to open the fair to end consumers for two days. This gives us many new impulses.”

Roman Degenhardt and Kristin Fitterer, managing directors of barefoot shoe specialist Zehenspiel (Erbach) and co-creators of the new fair, consider the event a must for all retailers specializing in this type of footwear: “The fast-growing barefoot shoe segment needs an independent platform where manufacturers, retailers, and all those involved in barefoot shoes can meet, inform themselves, and exchange ideas. The broad spectrum of barefoot shoe brands will be visible in Offenbach. ‘

The new trade fair will also be accompanied by an extensive, practical supporting programme – similar to the well-known, successful events at Messe Offenbach.


Lineapelle Milano: My Head In The Clouds

It will be the days of creativity, inspiration and a supply chain – that of fashion, luxury, design and manufacturers of leathers, fabrics, synthetics, accessories and components – confronting each other on style, the conjuncture and strategies to manage an economic moment that remains complex and undecipherable. After LINEAPELLE LONDON (Jan. 21) and LINEAPELLE NEW YORK (Jan. 29- 30), Lineapelle lands in Milan for edition number 105, hosting more than 1100 exhibitors and offering the usual, packed agenda of events. Watchword: My Head In The Clouds. Not an invitation to carelessness, but the title of the trends developed by the fair’s Fashion Committee for Spring-Summer 2026. A “way to recognize the positive qualities of an open and free mind, capable of going beyond limits.” Clouds “are the place of ReflAction, a crasi between the words Reflection and Action: they are the creative space, the privileged, safe place from which to observe our dizzying future.”

After the debut in February 2024, Lineapelle Interiors, an exhibition project that aims to highlight the innovative charge of tanneries and material manufacturers in the field of interior design, is back. Twenty installations will showcase never-before-seen creations resulting from the collaboration between 20 suppliers and 20 studios specializing in interior design.

New look also for the Lineapelle Designers Edition fashion shows: seven shows in three days that will bring a new idea of leather to the runway. Events that match the six daily presentations that will enliven Spazio Lineapelle, the showroom in Milan’s Piazza Tomasi di Lampedusa, from Feb. 25 to March 2.

Renewing its proposal for artisan involvement is In The Making, a leather goods workshop created by LINEAPELLE in collaboration with Giorgio Linea, where visitors – by reservation only – can try their hand at creating small fashion accessories, experiencing firsthand the sense and value of savoir-faire.

Like every year in February, the vitality of Friends For Leather, the art competition organized by UNIC – Italian Tanneries that involves more than 1,000 middle school students from Italian tanning districts, returns to LINEAPELLE. The theme of this edition is Circenses – Leather and Leather in Circus Games from Ancient Rome to Today.

Italian leather goods: export decline and domestic market stall

The data processed for Assopellettieri by the Study Center of Confindustria Accessori Moda describe a still suffering 3rd quarter (-6.7% trend in foreign sales, with -28% to China) and estimate a year-end in which the absence of significant improvements in the economic trend in the final months could cause sector turnover to drop to about 12 billion euros, with the loss of more than 1 billion over 2023 (-8.4%).

A framework in which the easing of downturns in the second half of the year (for comparison with already unsatisfactory 2023 months) does not change the overall assessment of a year to be quickly filed away, marked by a noticeable slowdown in international trade that did not spared even luxury. The slowdown in demand following the post-Covid rebound, which was already evident during 2023 and has intensified sharply since the beginning of 2024, has led to a setback in manufacturing activity, with negative balances in the number of active companies (-107 from January to September) and employees (-1,307), along with a sharp increase in the number of hours of layoffs authorized in the leather sector (+139.4 percent).

Confirmation of this difficult scenario also comes from the ISTAT index of industrial production, which, net of calendar effects, shows in the first 9 months for the item “Travel and leather goods” a contraction in quantities realized of as much as -20.5 percent. Markedly unfavorable indications have affected every single month since the beginning of 2024, with the sole exception of August (+3.3%), which, however, was immediately followed in September by a further heavy retreat, in the order of -30%. Even in terms of turnover, the reports emerging from the usual sample survey conducted by the Confindustria Accessori Moda Study Center among Assopellettieri member companies show a slowdown in the comparison with 2023.

Italian footwear: export (-9.2%) and turnover (-9.7%) slow down in the first 9 months

In the first nine months of 2024, the Italian footwear sector recorded declines in the main indicators. The declines in exports (-9.2% in value on January-September 2023) with the strong reduction in orders, had heavy repercussions on production activity (-18.9% Istat index of industrial production) and turnover (-9.7%). This is the snapshot taken by the report of the Confindustria Accessori Moda Study Center for Assocalzaturifici, which shows how, the effect of the post-Covid rebound having ended and after a 2023 of substantial stability (at least in value), 2024 closes with negative signs in all the main variables. Estimating a sectoral turnover that the first 12-month projections show slowing by -9.3 percent, to 13.2 billion euros (almost 1.4 billion less than the previous year) and with inevitable effects on business demographics and employment.

In detail, the report shows how, with reference to foreign demand, the trend is unfavorable for all product segments, with the sole exception of shoes with rubber uppers, whose exports grew by +8.2% in volume and +1.3% in value. On the other hand, shoes with leather uppers – which have always been characteristic of Italian production and cover 65 percent of foreign sales in value – recorded contractions of -7.1 percent in quantity and -8.2 percent in value.

“The reflective performance of many important international economies, in Europe and outside the EU borders, and a geopolitical context that is anything but favorable, which has seen the addition, in addition to the Russian-Ukrainian conflict, of another front of instability in the Middle East, have severely penalized footwear exports in 2024,” – commented Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici.

Looking at the markets, EU partners overall show less penalizing dynamics than those related to non-EU countries. Among the latter, positive signals only from China (+1.7 percent in value, with +19 percent in quantities), Hong Kong (+8.7 percent) and especially the United Arab Emirates (+26.3 percent), despite a moderate drop in pairs for both; and then Turkey, with increases over 10% in both volume and value.

Tuscany4Shoes: the Lucca excellence network

Tuscany4Shoes was founded in 2021 with the aim of creating a network that enhances the manufacturing and craftsmanship excellence of Lucca’s footwear district. Today, the consortium involves 60 companies, representative of the entire production cycle: from suppliers of raw materials and accessories, to footwear manufacturers and companies specializing in services related to the supply chain and accessory makers. A diversified group that makes it possible to offer a full range of skills and solutions, in an area by history and vocation that has always been dedicated to the footwear sector.

What is the current market situation and outlook according to member companies?

Member companies perceive the current market as challenging, but also full of opportunities. On the one hand, the growing demand for sustainability and quality pushes companies to invest in innovation, and on the other, international competition and rising costs demand greater efficiency. Thanks to the reputation of “Made in Tuscany,” which has always been synonymous with reliability and quality, and also thanks to the support of the consortium, the outlook is positive: the focus on innovative materials, sustainable design and advanced technologies is already bringing new business opportunities both in Europe and in non-EU markets, such as the United States and Asia.

Tuscany4Shoes has set sustainability and innovation as its main goals: how are you working towards this?

Sustainability and innovation are at the core of Tuscany4Shoes’ strategy. Some of the main initiatives include:

– Digitization of the supply chain: the consortium supports companies in implementing advanced technologies, such as the “Shoes-ID” system to improve traceability and efficiency.

– Sustainable materials research: we are promoting the adoption of environmentally friendly, recycled and biodegradable materials through collaborations with research centers and specialized suppliers.

– Production efficiency: we have initiated programs to optimize production processes, reducing energy waste and emissions.

– Training: we organize courses for entrepreneurs and workers in the industry, focusing on innovation, sustainability and new market trends.

To date, what benefits have member companies been able to have as a result of Tuscany4Shoes?

The benefits are many:

– Actions to approach international buyers thanks to B2B events organized directly to encourage meetings with buyers and new business partners.

– Visibility and reputation: the consortium represents a guarantee of quality and reliability, enhancing the “Made in Tuscany” brand on a global scale.

– Internal synergies: collaboration between companies has generated economies of scale and joint projects, improving overall competitiveness.

– Innovation and sustainable growth: through research and training projects, many companies have been able to introduce innovations that have improved products and processes, aligning with the new sustainability standards required by the market.

– Internationalization paths and participation in calls for proposals to promote the Tuscan footwear brand internationally and support companies’ development strategies.


Memorandum of agreement signed for the promotion of Italian fashion in the world

Confindustria Accessori Moda, the federation representing the associations of the main sectors of the Italian leather supply chain, participated in the launch event of the Days of Italian Fashion in the World, which took place on January 28 at the prestigious Villa Madama, in Rome, under the chairmanship of Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation Antonio Tajani. During the event, the presidents of the main trade associations signed a Memorandum of Understanding aimed at promoting Italian fashion in the world. The event was also an important opportunity to discuss strategies and priorities for the internationalization of the fashion industry, with a particular focus on the fight against counterfeiting, which is crucial for the future of the sector.

Giovanna Ceolini, President of Confindustria Accessori Moda, pointed out that “the purchase of fake goods involves about a quarter of Italian families, with clothing, accessories and footwear among the most counterfeited products. Counterfeiting harms the economy, Made in Italy businesses and feeds the parallel market based on labor exploitation and tax avoidance. It is essential to promote a culture of authenticity, especially among young people: schools, dialogue on the environment and the web are key tools to raise awareness, while trade associations must explain the importance of intellectual property and innovation to combat counterfeiting.”

Also presented was the new format Italian Fashion Days in the World, which will see the involvement of Italian Embassies, Consulates, ICE Offices and Cultural Institutes abroad to promote the excellence of Made in Italy.

The protocol, signed by Confindustria Accessori Moda, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Associazione Nazionale Fabbricanti Articoli Ottici – ANFAO, Confartigianato Moda, Confartigianato Orafi, CNA Federmoda, CNA Orafi, FEDERORAFI, Confindustria Moda – Federazione Tessile e Moda, and Uniontessile Confapi establishes close cooperation between the government and trade associations to support Italian fashion in eleven embassies, selected in strategic countries for the country’s exports.

Giovanna Ceolini – Presidente di Confindustria Accessori Moda

Rafting Goldstar’s latest victory over Birkenstock

In August 2015, Birkenstock sued Rafting Goldstar, an Italian family business, in the Milan court for counterfeiting one of its trademarks: the tread design of the sole of their sandals.

In September 2018, the European Court of Justice declared the trademark devoid of distinction, but Birkenstock, not content, continued the lawsuits at the national level.

Since then, several courts have ruled in favor of the Italian company: in March 2018, the Benelux court and in May 2024, the German Federal Court of Justice confirmed the decision of the European Court.

Confirmation also came in January 2025 from the Paris Court of Appeal, which also declared the attempt to register the sole design as a trademark null and void, once again ruling in favor of Rafting Goldstar.

We are now awaiting the judgment of the Italian Second Instance Court.

Industrie Chimiche Forestali and Geomatrix for new sustainable materials

Industrie Chimiche Forestali S.p.A. (“ICF”) – one of the leading operators at national and international level in the design, production and marketing of adhesives and fabrics with high technological content, listed on the Euronext Growth Milan market of Borsa Italiana – and Geomatrix Srl, a startup based in the Bolzano technology park, active in the creation of compounds synergistic with the circular economy – announce the results of the collaboration born in 2024 for the development of new sustainable materials.

Thanks to the new “Xi” compound based on wood waste patented by Geomatrix R&D and the experiments of the ICF R&D department, it was possible to develop a new line of materials that respond to the principles of circular economy.

In addition to responding to the management strategies of research into increasingly sustainable raw materials, laboratory tests carried out on the first industrial production have also highlighted excellent results in the technical parameters and the first applications, carried out with some important market-leading customers, will see the use in sports footwear, which require compliance with high performance in terms of resistance, elasticity, lightness, comfort and durability.

“This important collaboration – says Filippo Gallizia co-founder of Geomatrix – demonstrates the great development potential of the Xi Patent in innovative products characterized by a high sustainability value.

There is therefore a new alternative to plastics or bioplastics in a circular economy perspective, without technical compromises or strong price markups.”

“The Forestali Research and Development Team – as indicated by Guido Cami, CEO of ICF – has successfully developed a line of extruded composite materials for the reinforcement of footwear, achieving the ambitious goals of an important Italian sports company. The partnership has led to results that exceed expectations; we now have a new sustainable raw material with numerous other potential uses. An innovative product line that combines the natural strength of wood with the flexibility of fabrics. We are excited about this partnership with Geomatrix and always looking for projects that support the circularity of the economy”.


Elachem® and Main Group Technologies set up a cutting-edge technology hub for the footwear industry

The birth of the new technology hub, the result of the synergy between the Elachem® Group and Main Group Technologies, represents a turning point for the footwear industry, with a particular focus on the safety boot segment.

Thanks to this collaboration, companies specialising in the production of footwear with polyurethane systems can count on advanced tools and skills to optimise materials and production processes, guaranteeing innovative and customised solutions.

 

CUSTOMISED MATERIALS FOR EXCELLENT PERFORMANCE

A distinctive aspect of this partnership is the ability of the Elachem® Group’s research and development laboratory to work directly with safety boot manufacturers to study and create specific polyurethane system formulations. These materials are designed to meet the intensive use requirements typical of the professional sector, improving fundamental aspects such as strength, lightness and elasticity.

Advanced laboratory technology also allows the materials to undergo rigorous testing, ensuring maximum performance in terms of durability, comfort and safety. This approach allows manufacturers to benefit from continuous technical support, capable of transforming their needs into concrete solutions adapted to each specific use.

 

INNOVATION IN MANUFACTURING PROCESSES

In addition to excellence in materials, the technology hub offers access to state-of-the-art machinery developed by Main Group Technologies. These tools make it possible to optimise production processes, improve efficiency and ensure greater precision.

 

INTEGRATED SOLUTIONS FOR CUSTOMERS

The new technology hub stands out for its ability to act as a one-stop shop, accompanying manufacturers at every stage of the production process, from design to finished product. The integration of materials research, technological development and customised assistance offers an operational model that simplifies processes, reduces development time and improves the competitiveness of the end product.

This ensures a customer-centred approach, acting as a reference point for the entire footwear industry supply chain, with the ambition of leading the sector towards a more sustainable, efficient and customer-oriented future.

 

A NEW FRONTIER FOR THE WORK BOOT INDUSTRY

The collaboration between the Elachem® Group and Main Group Technologies marks a new phase for the professional footwear industry. By combining advanced skills and strategic vision, the technology cluster not only allows for the improvement of the finished product but also creates added value for the entire industrial chain.

“Our goal is to enable manufacturers to reach new standards of excellence, offering them tools and knowledge to meet the challenges of the future”, say the representatives of the two companies.


Sneaknit’s Easy Wear facilitates the fit

From Sneaknit an innovative technology that revolutionises the way people wear shoes. Designed for those who live hectic lives or who have difficulty moving, this solution offers a unique experience, combining comfort and practicality like never before.

With ‘Easy Wear’, the tongue is integrated directly into the upper, eliminating the need to unfasten or tie laces. Thanks to this structure, slipping the shoes on becomes a simple and immediate gesture, without the need to bend over or use a shoehorn.

But that’s not all: this unique technology not only facilitates the fit, but also keeps the foot stable and comfortable, ensuring optimal support all day long. It is a perfect solution for those looking for practicality without sacrificing comfort and design.