Many are attempting to initiate a serious and constructive debate on the subject and it is their efforts that we report on. Companies that study and develop innovative solutions for environmentally friendly materials (such as yarns made from recycled paper), for hidden components, such as reinforcements for shoes and bags, that can make a difference when it comes to calculating the carbon footprint. Even, there are those who produce moulds for soles who are concerned about sustainability. And still speaking of soles, there are many companies studying solutions for recycling or biodegradable structures.
And let’s not forget that all these issues are increasingly topical given the new legislative framework that Europe is promoting and which we mention.
Green shops, repair as a sustainable commitment, but also inclusiveness and social issues such as attention to gender violence.
According to Treccani, a renowned Italian encyclopedia, the word of 2024 is “Respect.” Therefore, we wondered what the most inclusive term could be to signify the commonly traveled path of technological evolution observed at Simac Tanning Tech 2024, within the leather, footwear, and leather goods industries.
This is why there is a question mark accompanying the word Automation in the title. In a historical/economic moment filled with uncertainties, but perhaps this would also be the case in a time of vitality, it is difficult to identify a single reference trend. There are many different paths being taken, including sustainability, for instance.
However, the attempt to bring automation into as many production processes as possible is a constant that you will find in many of the highlights we present in this special report. The reasons? The need to keep costs low, an area where competition is increasingly ruthless and often pressures producers; a market that demands speed and consistent quality; and the ever-growing shortage of labor, particularly skilled labor. All these factors lead to viewing automation as a possible lifeline, which we could now better define as a means of resilience.
Yet, that question mark remains, not only to preserve the multitude of research and development paths underway but also because automation does not yet seem to be the optimal solution in every case. This will be addressed in the next issue of Arsutoria by the CEO of a major company:
Designers still need production flexibility to fully develop their ideas. They require different solutions to achieve a final result that is still related to creativity and attention to detail, which a machine does not always manage to provide.
From 18 November 2024, Eduardo Calabuig assumed the role of General Director. The press release announcing the change at the top reads: “We have strengthened our management team with a more agile and collaborative structure, designed to be aligned with our strategic objectives. This will enable us to make faster decisions and work in an even more coordinated way to achieve all that we set out to do.”
In its role as a global producer of speciality chemicals for the leather and related industries, TFL has for many years been strongly committed to supporting the leather industry through active participation in various interest groups such as LWG, IULTCS, VGCT, TEGEWA, etc. In order to provide the best possible support, these activities have been brought together at TFL under the position of ‘Head of New Business Development/Industry Relations’. This position was previously held by Dr Dietrich Tegtmeyer, who retired on 1 October 2024. His successor is Dr Volker Rabe, who will take over these responsibilities in the future.
Dr Volker Rabe has been associated with the leather industry since his childhood, as his family ran a tannery for over 130 years. He has held various positions within TFL and its predecessor companies since 2012. After completing his PhD in Chemistry in 2009, he previously worked at FILK for 2 years. In addition to his professional activities, he already represents TFL in various committees of the leather industry and this year became Chairman of the IUR Research Commission of the IULTCS. His contact in TFL is as follows: [email protected]
IULTCS, the international Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies, has announced the change of chairmanship of several important internal committees. Dr Giancarlo Lovato has been appointed as new Committee Manager for ISO to replace Campbell Page, Dr Christine Anscombe will chair the Education and Training Commission (IUT) in place of Ivan Kral, and Simon Neifer succeeds Julian Osgood as Liaison Committee Chair.
“Giancarlo, Simon and Christine will play a crucial part in shaping the future initiatives, fostering collaborations, and driving positive change for IULTCS. The officers and IULTCS members look forward to working closely with the new Commission Chairs to help achieve our shared goals”, IULTCS leadership announced.
The new ISO IULTCS Committee Manager is Dr. Giancarlo Lovato
Dr. Lovato works as Director of Research at Corichem – Italy. In this role he is responsible for the development of new leather chemicals and related technologies. He was Secretary of AICC (the Italian Association of Leather Chemists) from 2019 to 2022 and President of the Organizing Committee of the III IULTCS EuroCongress Vicenza 2022. He is currently the Italian Delegate to the IULTCS Executive Committee.
The new IUT (Education) Commission Chair is Dr. Christine Anscombe
Christine joined the leather industry over 40 years ago and has spent the last 15 years at SATRA – UK in her current role as Assistant Director. She is currently the chair of the British Standards Institute Committee for Leather and Footwear and was a Past President of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists. Christine has recently been one of the initiators of the Supporters of Leather Education and Science (SOLES) group which is trying to support global leather education
The new IUL (Liaison) Commission Chair is Simon Neifer
Simon Neifer has over 20 years of experience in the leather industry, specializing in sales, technical applications, and product development. His career spans international leadership roles across Germany, China, and Thailand. Currently serving as Head of Sales & Application Leather at Pulcra Chemicals GmbH.
Now in its 41st year, APLF is more than just a trade event: it is the key meeting point for the global leather and manufacturing industry. Covering the entire supply chain, APLF offers a unique opportunity for leather industry players to connect with each other, exchange ideas and explore emerging trends, not least because of its prime location in Hong Kong, gateway to the vital markets of Mainland China and South East Asia. The date to mark in your diary is therefore 12-14 March 2025, at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, where over 800 exhibitors and 12,000 buyers from all over Asia and beyond will gather.
The event, as per tradition, will be uniquely structured to cover the entire leather and fashion supply chain through three key segments: APLF Leather & Materials, dedicated to components and materials essential for production, and Fashion Access, focusing on finished products. Recall that the leather industry in China and South-East Asia will continue to expand in the coming years. Driving this growth are key sectors such as footwear, fashion accessories, automotive and upholstery. With the continued economic development of these regions, consumer and industry demand for leather products is set to increase, and APLF Leather offers a valuable opportunity for suppliers to connect directly with key buyers in China and the wider Asian market.
Parallel to the growth in leather consumption, consumer demand for leather goods, footwear and fashion accessories is expected to increase significantly. A McKinsey report predicts that by 2030, 60 per cent of China’s population will belong to the middle class, while according to Market Data Forecast, the Southeast Asian leather goods market, valued at $5.9 billion in 2023, is expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.7 per cent between 2025 and 2030. This makes the region a crucial market for global manufacturers and Fashion Access represents a key platform for sourcing leather goods in Asia, with a wide range of handbags, wallets, small leather goods and garments.
The difficulties of the Italian leather-footwear supply chain, combined with a complex international economic scenario, have had significant repercussions on the footwear, leather goods and tanning machinery sector. This is the picture painted by Assomac data, the Confindustria association representing Italian companies in the sector, which show a generalised crisis. A crisis that, in the first nine months of 2024, has strongly impacted the domestic market, without sparing exports (-6.77% compared to the same period last year).
After the resilience recorded in 2023, 2024 looks like a year of widespread difficulties. Few companies expect to close the year with higher orders than the previous year, while more than 78% of the companies in the sector estimate a drop in orders. Numbers that underline the urgency of facing structural challenges and adapting to a market in profound transformation.
The drop in exports was particularly significant for footwear and leather goods machinery, which fell by 22.45%, influenced by the results of exports to France (-36.21%) and Spain (-69.25%), key markets in terms of volume. On the other hand, the decrease was more contained for the spare parts sector(-3.99%), where the drop in demand in Europe was partly offset by the growth in Asia (+6.33%) and America (+1.71%). The trend for tannery machinery remained negative, in line with the sector; weak signs of resilience came from the African and Asian markets.
“The current situation presents significant challenges, but our industry has shown great resilience. We remain competitive thanks to the quality and innovation of our technologies,’ commented Mauro Bergozza, President of Assomac. ‘However, to maintain and expand this competitiveness, it is crucial to accelerate investments in advanced technology, sustainability and Industry 5.0. In a globalised context, the integration of technological innovation and environmental responsibility is what will allow us to continue to be a reference point in the sector.”
It is precisely these investments in technology, combined with the expansion of certain emerging markets, that could be the key to returning to growth in 2025. Indeed, the outlook points to a possible stabilisation of the sector, with a recovery linked to the ability of companies to respond to the demands for more sustainable production and to collaboration with institutions to fully utilise the funds dedicated to Industry 5.0. The focus on the development of advanced technologies and the strengthening of international partnerships will be crucial to regaining ground in more mature markets and to consolidate Italy’s presence at global level.
An innovative company that uses the best knitting technologies to produce uppers and panels for shoes and bags, Sneaknit has always focused on sustainability as the driving force behind its research and creativity, opening up new possibilities for the entire footwear sector, meeting the needs of big brands as well as small companies.
‘We are constantly looking for new materials that respect the environment, without compromising on quality and aesthetics,’ they say at Sneaknit. And one example is recycled paper yarn, which is perfect for the production of bags and uppers: an innovative and responsible alternative, born from the desire to offer circular and durable materials.
‘With recycled paper yarn we aim to combine the functionality of the fabric with the need to reduce environmental impact, offering a product that meets our customers’ expectations in terms of both sustainability and performance. For us at Sneaknit, the future also lies in materials that respect the planet and people. And this new yarn is a concrete example of our commitment to an increasingly eco-friendly fashion industry’.
Perhaps it is a bit obvious to mention that such a large installed base is a fundamental asset for Comelz. From it, in fact, the company gathers input every year that enables it to make its software ever more efficient and productive. An extremely varied customer base that includes small cutting centers, Italian factories of the most important luxury maisons and large factories of international manufacturing. I think it is safe to say that the CAD software market for technical pattern design of shoe and bag has been mature and well established for years now offering several high-profile solutions. In this article, therefore, we have decided not to go into the details of how Comelz’s CAD software continues to evolve and improve every year but will focus completely on the Aurelia system, the software platform that Develer, the Tuscan company of more than 80 professionals that Comelz acquired in 2018, has been developing for years now for it to become the leading technology in companies’ offerings along with cutting machines. In summary, we can say that Aurelia is the software created to enable real-time information exchange between factory management, production planning, technical development, management accounting, and manufacturing. So let us analyze in more detail how this software aims to create a discontinuity in fashion manufacturing.
Cruscotto Aurelia con indicatori di performance
Sharing technical data securely From today, Comelz’s CAD software for technical pattern drafting can choose whether to store files on the computer of the technician who created them or within the shared archive of the Aurelia system. The goal is clear: to create a repository where all technical development and production data can be cataloged and organized so that it is available to all company departments. In a first phase the technical model files but soon the entire product spec sheet. Aurelia was created as a software environment to support the cutting center. It seems clear why, in addition to CAD patterns, the “digital twin” of each material to be cut can be stored within Aurelia. The operator on board a Nek table can digitize the outline of a leather, identify the different quality areas, demarcating those parts that should not be used, highlight the position and type of any defects. The result of this work is a file that can be stored within Aurelia. If the advantage of storing material data within Aurelia is not obvious, think of the possibility of calculating pattern consumption on actual hides but also the opportunity to analyze the actual nesting to continuously improve cutting efficiency. Companies cannot afford to lose data, and they need to do all that is required to prevent cyber-attacks that compromise the integrity and availability of data. To ensure the security of the data stored inside Aurelia archives and therefore the business continuity of its customers, the Comelz Group has chosen the path of independent certification. A specialized third-party company annually tests the software by performing “intrusion tests” in search of possible vulnerabilities. The Aurelia system is a web-app that is, an application accessible through a web browser. The typical proposed installation is on a server in the cutting center. This architecture allows an advantageous proximity to the machines with which Aurelia exchanges data i.e., dialogues continuously. However, a different architecture is also possible: Comelz can provide a server by hosting it at its infrastructure. Today Comelz software licenses are “floating” that is, they can be used on different computers without the need for a physical dongle. In fact, Aurelia also plays the role of “license server” and dynamically verifies compliance with the contractual conditions. All software can be installed on multiple locations, and it is the server that will verify that the number of concurrent users does not exceed the number of available licenses. The advantage for the company is obvious: a technician with a username and the appropriate security permissions can open on any workstation a file stored in Aurelia, modify it and save it again.
Modello di scarpa progettato in CaligolaModello di borsa progettato in CleopatraCalcolo del Consumo con modulo ST Plus
Organizing production Aurelia connects to the main management information systems used in the fashion industry to automatically receive cutting orders. In the case of Dedagroup’s Stealth solution, Aurelia is the only platform currently natively integrated: it not only receives data automatically but also returns the status of each ticket. For those factories who do not have an enterprise production management information system installed, Aurelia at its core contains the tools to create cutting orders independently quickly and easily. This feature can also be very useful in the integration scenario if it becomes necessary in production to create “rework” orders without going through the upstream system. The orders transmitted to Aurelia through integration with the company’s information system and those entered directly by Aurelia are conveyed into a production plan from which the cutting center manager can manage work scheduling by assigning each ticket to each individual machine and eliminating the typical handing of paper. It then becomes easy to know at any time and in real time the progress of each ticket, and it is also possible to adjust the program, changing the job queue of each machine to balance the workload and achieve the best performance. By combining the different software offered by Comelz, it is possible to organize different workflows that fit the way the client companies have organized their processes. By way of example only, it is worth mentioning the Calcon module, which makes it possible to modify and adjust patterns for cutting right from the cutting machine (e.g. margins, reference marks, markings, holes, etc.) in case the company prefers to add these technical details while cutting rather than at CAD.
Aurelia timeline del funzionamento di una macchinaCollegamento al desktop remoto di una macchina da Aurelia
Collect data from machines and monitor production When Aurelia is opened, the first page that is displayed is the dashboard where performance indicators are shown: to mention a few the number of hides processed, the net area of pieces cut, the efficiency percentages of the machines. All of this can be analyzed over any time interval, a single shift or an entire year, by individual machine, by department, or overall for the entire cutting center. From the moment it is connected through the local network to Comelz machines, Aurelia begins to gather data, compliant to Industry 4.0, not only those data that allow for performance analysis i.e., cutting center efficiency, but also data useful for predictive maintenance i.e., identifying and solving potential causes of malfunction. Aurelia also collects, stores and makes available the individual operating parameters set on each machine. The goal is to keep each machine at its maximum potential and provide those who manage the cutting department with all the information they need to adjust course. While gathering data from the machines of the cutting department, Aurelia can receive all the individual events and show a detailed timeline where preparation and nesting times, actual cutting times, and idle times are shown along with performance indicators. The GL software on board the CZ cutting machines interacts with the operator and requires simple yet comprehensive entry of detailed information that provides an analytical understanding of the causes of any delays with a view to continuous improvement. It is possible to define standards for each of the processes and consequently analyze the deviations between actual performance (of consumption and time) compared to the standards. However, when the technical data of individual hides, from the Nek tables, are also present within Aurelia, it is possible to achieve a very detailed level of analysis that shows for each individual hide how the nesting of pieces with respect to quality areas was performed. A function has also been developed within Aurelia that allows the cutting center manager to connect from his or her location in real time to each machine and share the screen with the operator without having to install third-party products (e.g. TeamViewer). Data export in Excel format is also available, where there is a need to do further downstream analysis.
Consumption simulation Since both model technical data and information on the materials to be cut are available within Aurelia, Comelz decided to bring the typical functions of the renown ST Plus software for calculating consumption into Aurelia. The ideal environment is thus created within which to determine an accurate estimate of expected consumption for new projects. The next step was to sophisticate the consumption calculation simulation in two different ways. First, the same GL software that runs the CZ cutting machines was implemented within Aurelia. Since the operating parameters of the machines and the typical efficiency of each of them are known, it is possible to accurately determine the total time required to complete a cutting order. In addition, the “mix optimizer” function takes advantage of machine idle time to process simulation algorithms and propose strategies to optimize cutting efficiency, for example, by proposing the cutting of different patterns where the interlocking of part geometries allow maximum material utilization.
Qualificazione della pelle con tavolo NEKDigitalizzazione di una pelle con aree di qualità e difettiTavolo da taglio CZ
The contemporary outdoor sneaker landscape is a thrilling intersection of cutting-edge technology and environmental consciousness. Gone are the days when a trail running shoe was simply a utilitarian piece of equipment. Today, these shoes are sophisticated pieces of engineering that tell a story of human ambition, technological prowess, and ecological responsibility.
Take, for instance, the evolution of trail running shoes. Brands like Salomon are pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with their S/LAB line. The Genesis model isn’t just a shoe; it’s a carefully crafted companion for extreme terrain. With its Matryx fabric upper and strategically designed sole, it represents a marriage of scientific precision and athletic aspiration. Similarly, La Sportiva‘s introduction of XFlow® foam technology speaks to a relentless pursuit of performance – creating materials that offer maximum cushioning and elastic return.
Sustainability has moved from a buzzword to a fundamental design principle. Brands are no longer just talking about eco-friendliness; they’re embedding it into the very DNA of their products. The Winqs Zerofly, with its Michelin sole made partly from rubber production waste, is a perfect example of this philosophy. It’s not just a shoe; it’s a statement about reimagining waste as an opportunity for innovation.
What’s particularly exciting is how these shoes are blurring traditional boundaries. The concept of a “door-to-trail” shoe has emerged – a versatile piece of footwear that seamlessly transitions from city streets to mountain paths. Garmont‘s 9.81 Urban Speed embodies this spirit, using recycled materials and drawing inspiration from vintage designs while incorporating modern performance technologies.
What’s particularly compelling is how these developments reflect broader cultural shifts. These aren’t just shoes; they’re manifestations of our growing awareness about personal performance, environmental responsibility, and the blurring lines between urban and outdoor lifestyles.
