Arsutoria Magazine

The school of opportunities

Because Arsutoria, the workshop school, lives up to its claim by organising courses that not only teach and delve into the materials, design, technique and production of the world of footwear and bags, but are actually a workshop full of opportunities.

Having entrepreneurs and technicians from leading companies in the sector in the classroom as adjunct teachers and visiting their production sites. Or, to have the opportunity to participate in international contests or even to walk the catwalk and thus showcase one’s know-how.

Take an active part in projects developed in partnership with some of the most important masoins and benefit from the opportunity to observe how people work in renowned fashion brands. Last but certainly not least, make your own prototypes of shoes or bags, or try your hand at building exclusive models developed by the Arsutoria School staff.

All this being said, how is it possible not to think that the international school based in Milan for designers and pattern-makers does not represent an unmissable opportunity! Not only to learn everything you need to know to start working in listed companies knowing exactly what to do, but also an opportunity to get to know in depth and directly the protagonists of the industry, the companies that work every day in the world of footwear and leather goods.

A suffering 2024 for Italian menswear

After years of growth, 2024 looms as a year of “suffering” for fashion in general and for Italian menswear. Against a backdrop of great uncertainties, the greatest fears are to be found in the lower propensity of consumers to buy, sharp increases in costs, the slowdown of many major economies, as well as geopolitical tensions related to both the various ongoing conflicts and a series of key political elections, such as the European elections last June and the most recent American ones.

According to estimates compiled by the Economic Studies Office of Confindustria Moda, Italian men’s fashion (in a sense that includes ready-to-wear, outerwear, shirts, ties and leather apparel) is expected to file 2024, after three years of continuous growth, with a -3.6 percent decline in sales compared to the previous year. In 2024, therefore, Italian menswear turnover would rise to 11.4 billion euros, covering 18.9 percent of the Italian textile-clothing supply chain.

With reference to the individual micro-sectors examined here, in 2024 they are all affected by negative dynamics, with the exception of leather clothing. In 2024, the value of production (recall that this variable is proposed to estimate the value of production activity carried out in Italy, net of the marketing of imported products) shows a decrease of -4.0 percent over 2023. Over the course of the year, cross-border sales remained positive, albeit at a slower pace: exports are expected to change by +0.6%. The total level of foreign sales would thus rise to about 8.9 billion euros. The share of exports in total industry sales would continue to strengthen, reaching 77.8 percent.

In contrast, with regard to imports, a decline of -6.6 percent over the 12 months is projected, with total sectoral imports amounting to 5.3 billion.

Given the aforementioned foreign trade trend, an improvement is expected for the sectoral trade surplus; in fact, the total surplus is expected to rise to more than 3.6 billion in the full year.

Import and export

A more detailed picture shows, from January to September 2024, how menswear exports remained positive, registering a growth of +1.0%, reaching 7.1 billion euros. On the contrary, on the import side, in the first nine months of 2024, made-in-Italy menswear shows an average decline of -7.2%, dropping to around 4.8 billion.

About the main destinations, France is confirmed in the lead, with +7.5 percent, securing 12.8 percent of total exports, followed by Germany, with 10.1 percent of men’s exports, despite a -2.9 percent drop. This was followed in third place by the United States, up +0.6 percent, thus absorbing 9.3 percent of men’s fashion exports. Thanks to strong growth of +30.1 percent, China climbs to fourth place.

Looking at performance by product line, from January to September 2024, export growth is noted for all items except ties, which show a -7.6 percent decline. Leather apparel, with a growth of +9.7 percent, is the best performer; outerwear shows a dynamic of +1.3 percent; followed by men’s shirts (+1.2 percent) and men’s knitwear (with a smaller increase: +0.4 percent).

Relative to supply markets in the first nine months of 2024, however, China remains the top supplier with a 12.5 percent significance, despite a -9.8 percent decline over the same period in 2023. Bangladesh, in second position, shows a double-digit decline (-12.3%), as does France, third, which flexes by -10.4%.

In the case of supplies from abroad, in the first nine months of 2024, there is a contraction in imports for all products except leather clothing, which grows by +6.6 percent.

Turning to consumer analysis on the domestic market, with reference to AW 2023-24, Textile-Clothing as a whole was characterized by a negative dynamic in contrast to that recorded in the previous F/W season: in value it experienced a decline of -3.8% and in volume of -4.7%, while F/W 2022-23 had filed +5.9% in value and +2.3% in volume.

Veldskoen Shoes: soul of Africa

The circumstance in which the Veldskoen Shoes project comes to life is rather curious: In 2016, during a conversation about the Rio Olympic Games, the two founding partners Nick Dreyer and Ross Zondagh are disappointed that the South African Olympic team parades through the opening ceremony wearing inappropriate clothing to represent the nation. They therefore begin to think of an iconic South African garment for the athletes to wear in the future to better represent their country, and the choice falls on veldskoen. By adding a touch of color to the soles, stitching and laces, what is the distinctive look of Veldskoen today was born. The name itself is curious: the word “Veldskoen” was first documented by Dutch settlers arriving in southern Africa nearly 400 years ago and means “camp shoes.” However, according to the tribal folklore of the two main ethnic groups in Southern Africa, they were leather shoes, cut from a single skin, made and worn by tribes as early as 1,000 years earlier. Starting from the original design of these shoes, the brand’s signature product that we know today was born and has captured the hearts of not only the , but the world with some famous fans such as Ashton Kutcher, Prince Harry and Matthew McConaughey.


Lotto Leggenda: sport under the banner of sustainability

Founded in 1973 in the heart of the Sportsystem district of Montebelluna, Lotto Sport Italia is today one of the leading companies in Italian sports, clearly identified through its historic logo, the Losanga: a tennis court and a soccer field overlapping, to represent the passion for sports and values such as respect and fair play, which still reflect the company’s DNA. For the AW 25/26 winter season, the brand continues its encounter between sport and quality, reinterpreting its own history. As in the Losanga ’76 men’s model, a white leather sneaker inspired by Italy’s victory in the 1976 Davis Cup, where the iconic Losanga that recalls the brand’s history is reinterpreted in an oversize format, giving it a distinctive and avant-garde look. But Lotto Leggenda is also a sustainability-conscious brand. One example is the OOH!! model, Lo8o’s first eco-sustainable tennis-inspired sneaker, developed in partnership with ACBC, made from materials derived from recycling processes. The sole is partially made from recycled tennis and padel balls, while the upper is partially made from apple processing waste.


The luxury men’s brand LF Luís Figo is born

On the occasion of Pitti Uomo in Florence, Luìs Figo together with his friend, partner and founder Gandolfo Albanese, presented their innovative fashion project: men’s luxury brand LF Luìs Figo. The LF Luìs Figo “new chicwear” main collection, as its founders like to call it, is inspired by contemporary lifestyle, bringing Italian sartorial inspiration into a modern and dynamic context. A total look that tells of Made in Italy: each garment tells a journey between sporty elegance and urban sophistication, perfect for those who live each day as a new challenge, with style and authenticity. Designed for the modern man who wants to be impeccable in every moment of the day, the LF Luís Figo FW 25-26 collection includes a full range of garments, including designer sneakers. Each garment reflects Luís Figo’s personality: the balance between strength and grace, tradition and innovation, designed for the man who seeks garments capable of telling a story of quality, passion, and timeless style.


KEEN: ‘outside fashion’

The brand began its history with the innovative Newport sandal, a hybrid model with a protective toe that revolutionized the footwear industry, and has always been active in environmental conservation and humanitarian support. Today it actively works to identify and replace harmful chemicals in the production chain with safer and more sustainable alternatives, ensuring that every step is responsible and conscious. A brand that likes to call itself ‘Outside’ rather than ‘outdoor,’ because exploration begins everywhere-beyond the doorstep, striving to make the outdoors accessible to all. A commitment that we also find in the new winter collection, where the HYPOWSER OPEN-AIR sneaker stands out, wearable in a snap and which, thanks to the Crushback heel, transforms into a shoe or a slide. It also offers unparalleled comfort thanks to its new extra-thick but incredibly lightweight injected foam midsole.

Also of interest is JASPER ZIONIC, the hybrid sneaker with climbing shoe DNA, reimagined to accompany the urban citizen in everyday experiences. The upper is made of soft ethical suede with detailed stitching, while the lightweight and durable outsole offers enhanced durability and superior performance, grip and agility to cope with dynamic movements. Finally, the contoured fit ensures maximum comfort during movement.

JASPER ZIONIC
HYPOWSER
HYPOWSER


Hyplus+ revolutionizes the way we understand fashion design

Hyplus is the world’s first AI-generated brand, fusing human creativity with advanced technology to create revolutionary clothing and footwear. Artificial intelligence has also enabled the development of Lentishift technology, an innovative system that can generate a lattice effect inspired by the optical field through a double print present in the same garment placement. With this process, the shoes in the collection present a double vision: looking at them from the front, a “+” sign appears as a symbol of positivity and momentum toward the future, while from an opposite angle an ironic and past reference emerges, a dichotomy that makes each creation unique and surprising. The collection is not only an aesthetic project, but a real innovation, which thanks to the incursion of technology imprints character and personality on the materials, without ever putting quality in the background. The collection is divided into two main lines: Hybrid, a never-out-of-stock line always available for iconic garments, supplemented with limited-edition drops designed for those seeking uniqueness and novelty in every release.


The brogue derby protagonist of Green George’s winter

The Marche-based brand of handcrafted footwear since 1971 presented at the last Pitti Uomo its new FW24/25 collection, centered on models that tell of timeless style, meticulous handwork where every step is essential to achieve a shoe of the highest quality, and a spokesperson for a distinctive personality. The main collection, designed for men, finds in the Brouge derby one of its best spokespersons: made of fine leather-colored calfskin, it is embellished with a dark toe cap with an antiqued effect, the result of careful manual workmanship that enhances its unique character. The real strength of this model, however, lies in its sturdy tank-type rubber sole, which guarantees maximum durability and grip, making it perfect for tackling any situation with style and practicality. Among the most iconic pieces in the collection we also find the moccasin in soft suede leather with tassels, offered in light brown tones and featuring on the toe and heel a special aging process. The classic Blake workmanship gives the shoe greater flexibility and durability, while grip and practicality are ensured by the rubber lug sole.

 

Filmore: inspired by and respectful of nature

A sustainable brand that takes care of every aspect of the product, starting from the first sketches, through the choice of materials and modern, timeless designs, and ending with fair working conditions. Filmore chooses responsibly produced LWG-certified leather combined with unique soles made from recycled materials. Design, production and packaging take place mostly in Europe according to quality standards. Nature, which Filomre respects and protects, is also the source of inspiration for clean designs, designed to transcend seasons and fashions, and natural tones, which set the tone for each collection.

The brand’s launch in 2023 was also in the spirit of originality: by purchasing a pair of shoes, the first 100 customers got 0.01% share in the brand, becoming part of the company. A unique steel installation with 100 illuminated “shoe boxes” was built, accompanied by a website that, in real time, showed the light that, for each shoe sold, would go off inside the shoe boxes.


EMU: the allure of nature

Distinctive styles – from waterproof sheepskin boots in the Platinum and Sharky lines to wool sneakers and all-weather footwear – place comfort, durability and timeless elegance at the center. This collection reflects EMU’s commitment to quality and the timeless beauty of nature-inspired design. Handcrafted in Australia, the Platinum line features styles for men and women, made with an environmentally friendly tanning process that reduces water consumption and using biodegradable materials and Australian sheepskin to create products that are friendly to feet and the planet. The boots in this line feature replaceable insoles that extend the life of the product. More boldly designed, on the other hand, is the Sharky line, featuring a sole inspired by the sharp, serrated shape of sharks’ teeth. In this area, the “Blurred” model stands out, with a sporty, modern and fashionable silhouette and an EMU-branded ribbon.

Blurred
Blurred
Sharky