Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Magazine

OEKO-TEX®: building trust through transparency

To achieve its goal, OEKO-TEX® takes measures to foster scientific insight and innovation within the leather and textile industry, and the international association’s 17 Research and Analytical Institutes work closely with manufacturers to develop high-quality leather products at all stages of the value chain.

OEKO-TEX®’s global industry vision is, therefore, a great added value for brands, manufacturers, retailers and consumers. The association focuses, in particular, on transparency and traceability, which is reflected in the growth rate in 2023 of the OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN product label: in fact, compared to the prescribed period, the labels issued increased by 52 percent. MADE IN GREEN is a traceable product label for all kinds of textiles and leather products that have been manufactured in responsible facilities under safe and socially responsible working conditions. It also reassures consumers that the product is tested for harmful substances.

One prerequisite for MADE IN GREEN is that the product is certified according to the OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD. ​This is an internationally standardised testing and certification system for leather and leather goods at all production levels. The certification supports companies along the supply chain with the implementation of high human-ecological product safety. The OEKO-TEX® criteria catalogue is updated annually to comply with international regulations such as REACH.  

Vibram Strat-X, to revolutionize the construction of uppers

Vibram is introducing Vibram Strat-X technology, an innovation designed by the company to radically transform the conventional approach to the construction and customization of shoe uppers. Vibram Strat-X is an innovative material, a thin sheet that through an advanced molding process allows the creation of the upper and/or technical or fashion covers in a single step while maintaining the high quality of Vibram rubber. The rubber sheets, with different finishes and thicknesses, allow the creation of a wide range of elements: strength, lightness, robustness, elasticity, waterproofing and versatility emerge as key features of this new concept, adaptable to a variety of applications. The two finished products LB214 and Luxury Rubber Boot, presented at Pitti in black the former and in blue the latter, are two examples of different applications of this process that generates two distinct types of construction. With LB214, Strat-X technology acts as a protective shell offering waterproofing and protection. The Luxury Rubber boot, on the other hand, combines quality and comfort, resulting in a unique and original look for all occasions. The Strat-X technology used for the upper, is characterized as a lightweight and comfortable material that is as soft as leather, but maintains the high-quality performance standard of Vibram rubber.

Italian footwear industry still weak in 2023

Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici, comments on the fatigue of the Italian footwear industry encountered in 2023 as follows: “The year that has just ended had an undulating trend for the Italian footwear industry. The brilliant performance of the first quarter, with double-digit increases in exports and turnover, was followed by a gradual slowdown. The 2024 is showing worrying signs at the start, and we expect a further slowdown at least in the first half of the year. A conjuncture determined by the difficult international scenario, dominated by geopolitical events and risks, and restrictive financial conditions for families and businesses.”

Among foreign markets, France is confirmed in first place (+17.3% in value and +1.1% in quantity on January-October 2022), whose figures also include the return flows of production carried out in Italy by French luxury multinationals. The selection process among companies continues (with a heavy -5.3% between industry and handicrafts), despite the resilience in the number of employees (which marks +1.8%, although still below 2019 pre-Covid levels and down in the last quarter).

The Italian footwear sector, thanks to favorable results in the first part of the year, closes 2023 with turnover at €14.6 billion, weakly up on 2022 (+0.9%) supported by exports, which stand at €12.8 billion (+1.1% in value). The trade balance is good (5.8 billion, +7.3%), but Italian household spending (-1.5%) and especially the volumes produced (which cancelled out the recovery of 2022 returning to 148 million pairs, -8.6%) and those exported (-10.6%), in significant contraction.

Discover everything about footwear components and technologies at Aysaf

The 70th International Exhibition for Footwear Materials, Components, Leather and Technologies AYSAF is preparing to bring together manufacturers from all around the world with the cooperation of the umbrella organization of the industry, the Turkish Footwear Industry Suppliers Association AYSAD and Artkim.  

The largest exhibition of Eurasia and the second largest exhibition of Europe in its industry, AYSAF is planning to open its doors with more than 350 companies and is expected to be visited by over 15,000 sector professionals from more than 80 countries. Within the scope of the exhibition, the latest innovations in shoe sole systems, heels, leather, artificial leather, textiles, metal and plastic accessories, chemicals, adhesives, machinery, equipment, and production technologies are waiting to be discovered.

AYSAF, one of the most comprehensive and largest B2B trade platforms of the global shoe sub-industry, opens the doors to new and productive business connections. Visiting the exhibition means to be at the heart of all developments, new products and technologies in the sector.

The AYSAF Exhibition that will be enlivened with exhibitions, special trend areas, sectoral panel sessions, AYSAF Talks conference program will once again act as a bridge between producer and buyer.

Micam and Mipel with other fashion fairs draw positive balance

Closing figures for the four events dedicated to fashion and accessories, which were presented simultaneously at Fieramilano (Rho), thanks to international incoming, showed good performance, a tangible sign of stability at a difficult time for the economic situation.

MICAM Milano, MIPEL, The One Milano and Milano Fashion&Jewels welcomed a total of 40,821 trade visitors, 45% of whom came from abroad. In particular, from the European Union, France, Germany, Spain and Greece recorded the best performance; from non-European markets positive results from Japan, China, Kazakhstan and the United Kingdom. 

Once again, the will to work as a system and present to the market together won.

Despite the positivity conveyed by the numbers, the atmosphere among the aisles and in the booths did not turn out to be the best. The outlook for the semester remains difficult mainly because of warehouses still well stocked with products from past seasons and because of the great indecision and tight budgets of buyers.

Also inaugurating the events was the Minister of Business and Made in Italy, Adolfo Urso, a presence that further underscored the importance of trade fairs as a tool for the promotion and internationalization of Italian companies.

During these days in the pavilions, not only business was in the air, but also the desire to innovate: in all the sectors represented, in fact, strong efforts are being made for a renewal of production processes with the introduction of digitization and the latest technologies. But this forward thrust does not nullify, indeed strengthens, a tradition rooted in craftsmanship, which is still alive in all the sectors represented by the events.

Another great moment of shared intent is that of training: workshops and educational and informative moments were organized at all the events, in many cases involving young people, who represent the future, and schools, an indispensable bridge to the world of work for the new generations.

With this edition closed, we are already looking forward to next September, always from a supply chain and system perspective: the appointment is from September 15 to 18, 2024.


At White to discover new talent and sophistication

Thanks to White, the spaces of the Tortona Fashion District welcomed a host of buyers, fashion editors and fashion professionals from all over the world. An edition full of events, collaborations and novelties.

WHITE confirmed itself as an event capable of attracting the attention of the fashion scene, a showcase for new talents and a stimulating platform for established brands. About 300 brands (40% international, 60% Italian) previewed ready-to-wear collections dedicated to the FW24-25 season.

The event is always an excellent opportunity to discover original and sought-after brands, as well as to meet some emerging or still unknown to the general public.

We mention the different graphic vision of House of Florence with its iconic bags with the metal lip-shaped application, now a distinctive feature of the brand. Pure glamour for Radica Studio, trendy bags offered in intense colors and bold designs. Çaplait points to its Pakistani origins to make luxury and no-season footwear that recalls Middle Eastern colors and patterns. For winter fashion, UNCOMMON lab spoke with a line of furs made with special combinations of materials, prints and techniques. A special area was dedicated to MiniMe Paris. This brand produces 100% upcycling accessories, shoes and bags, using fabric remnants of major luxury brands.

The Resort edition of White will be held June 15-17, 2024.


Leather Naturally breakfast meeting at APLF 2024

Leather Naturally will be present at the APLF 2024 in Hong Kong with its well-known lounge on level 3, concours 3E. “We are happy to welcome our members for a coffee and chat and of course also interested parties requiring further information of our organization” the say.

On March 20th Leather Naturally is happy to invite to the breakfast meeting prior to the fair: 9am-10am meeting room N106-N108. Members of their Management Board will present the activities of Leather Naturally over the last year and planned in 2024, including:

* World Leather Day and how to get involved this year
* Leather Naturally’s LCA study
* Get the Facts-icon for retailers, brands and designers

Additionally, they will offer an active panel discussion on important topics occupying everyone in the industry:

* How can brands be further educated about leather?
* How can me make use of the LCA study?
* How to play Social Media best in the Leather Industry?

The Breakfast Meeting is accessible to everyone and as such, we invite you to bring your business partners with you. This is a great opportunity to not only hear about Leather Naturally, but to interact with the team in person and ask questions.
Please register on:  APLF – Hong Kong 2024 | Leather Naturally

In addition, Leather Naturally will give a presentation on March 19th in the public area about the work of the organization and why the support of its members is really decisive.

Leather Naturally promotes the use of responsibly made, certified leather. Its website www.leathernaturally.org is a key resource for information about modern leather manufacturing and the part it plays in a more sustainable society.

Spanish collections for F/W 2024-25 successfully presented in Milan

Spanish footwear exports, in the first eleven months of 2023, reached 3,010.8 million euros and 146.2 million pairs, an increase of 6.4 percent in value and a decrease of 1.2 percent in pairs compared to the same period in 2022.

These numbers frame the situation of the Spanish footwear market. While denoting its resilience, they certainly cannot shield it from the many critical issues and uncertainties affecting the entire industry.

 

One positive sign, however, certainly came from the participation of Spanish companies at MICAM Milan in February 2024: a total of one hundred Spanish exhibitors, representing 123 brands.

This was the same number of companies that, under the aegis of Shoes from Spain, participated in the fair in 2023.

 

“MICAM is the most important trade fair for the footwear sector and it is good news that, despite the delicate situation the sector is going through, many companies presented their collections in Milan,” said Rosana Perán, president of FICE, who added, “The complex economic situation, influenced by rising inflation, international geopolitical conflicts and rising labor costs, has put companies in a difficult position. However, the high presence in Milan reflects the resilience of the sector and its commitment to internationalization.”

 

Spain was the second largest exhibitor country at MICAM. A high participation that allowed companies to highlight their commitment to design, quality, sustainability and innovation.

 

Imanol Martínez, Marketing Director of FICE, closes the review with the latest export data: “In the first eleven months of 2023 we exported the same number of pairs, but 20% more expensive, as in the same period of 2019. Italy is the second largest buyer of Spanish footwear, with 15.4 percent of the total. From January to November 2023, exports to Italy totaled 462.5 million euros and 23.3 million pairs, up 22.3 percent in value and 12.5 percent in volume compared to 2022. Compared with the same period in 2019 (pre-Covid data), exports to Italy are 44.7 percent higher in value and 24 percent higher in pairs.”

NexX4TM, the revolutionary new sole

Imagine wearing a shoe with a sole that is transparent, just like glass, but completely and easily customisable aesthetically, in terms of colour, texture and design. Suitable for any type of shoe, shape and thickness. A unique sole, characterised by extreme lightness, high abrasion resistance, long life and constant high performance in all weather conditions. NexX4TM is the new brand that identifies this incredible innovation, developed by the JVI-Engineering Business Unit owned by JV International srl (jvinternational.com). With NexX4TM, JVI-Engineering has decided to change the rules of the game by revolutionising not only the world of soles but the very way footwear is conceived, designed and manufactured.
At the military trade fair – Enforce Tac in Nuremberg (26-28 February) – the Czech brand Prabos is the first to choose NexX4TM on its Striker model, an ultra-resistant camouflage combat boot.
In this shoe, the application of NexX4TM plays a key role. Thanks to its transparency, this sole blends perfectly with the boot’s camouflage style. The unrivalled lightness of NexX4TM offers extreme comfort, while the special design of the tread, combined with the intrinsic characteristics of the material, guarantees a firm grip even on wet and damp terrain. The high performance in terms of abrasion resistance, lightness, grip and consistent performance over a wide temperature range from -40 to +40 make this boot unrivalled in its sector. From fashion to uniform, from sport to work & safety NexX4TM establishes itself as the solution of the future. Not just a sole, but a true technology capable of making each shoe unique and able to exceed expectations, more and more up to every daily or extraordinary need, in any climate and environment.


Kerry Brozyna is the new president of L&HCA

The Leather & Hide Council of America (L&HCA) has appointed Kerry Brozyna as Acting President, effective June 2024. He brings significant experience in brands, manufacturing and international supply chain management as he moves from Wolverine Worldwide (WWW), where he served as Vice President and General Manager.
Brozyna, currently serving as co-chair on the board of L&HCA, takes over from Stephen Sothmann, who served as L&HCA President for twelve years and who now joins DTB AgriTrade and follows an open selection process conducted by the L&HCA executive committee.
In his new role, Brozyna will oversee the strategic direction of L&HCA, as the voice of a U.S. industry worth more than $1 billion per annum and exporting some 95% percent of its cattle hides and wet blue leather products. Central to this will be the L&HCAs groundbreaking Industry Sustainability Program that brings together partners from across the supply chain to promote best practice in manufacturing and championing the use of sustainable and high-quality leather in international markets.
Key to this will be the publication of the first comprehensive and independent Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of U.S. cowhide production due to be released at the Economist Sustainability Summit in London in March 2024. The LCA is a data driven study that is expected to show a significantly smaller environmental footprint of leather than previous models. Brozyna commented:
“The textile industry is at a crossroads – as is the leather industry – where a firm commitment is required to solutions that are as good for the planet as they are for business. We must protect and grow international markets and educate stakeholders and consumers as to why slow style, for example, is preferrable to fast fashion.
“I am excited to support the industry in its rapid evolution and to capitalize on the opportunity for leather as a unique industry that consumes, rather than creates, waste. We provide answers to many challenges facing the textile industry and our planet today.”
Chad Robertson, Chair, Leather and Hide Council of America:
“Kerry brings real commercial know-how, brand and consumer insight and understanding of the leather industry. As such he is ideally positioned to lead the L&HCA as it works to influence the international industry and engage our commercial and consumer audiences.”