Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Magazine

Cuoio di Toscana alongside Marine Serre with the CDT Prize

Consorzio Cuoio di Toscana – spokesman in the world of one of the leading tanning districts and expression of the excellence of a unique sole leather, obtained by slow vegetable tanning – accompanied under the umbrella of the CDT Prize, the debut of Marine Serre at the Florentine kermesse as Guest Designer, supporting the French designer for her event.

 “Since 2021 we have been supporting young talents through the CDT Prize, with the aim of enhancing creativity and raising awareness of the importance of a quality, Made in Italy product such as our leather. This collaboration testifies to the raw material’s ability to respond to innovation from a sustainable perspective, which is essential for the future of the industry,’ said Antonio Quirici, President of Cuoio di Toscana.

Cuoio di Toscana also acted as spokesperson for the sustainable commitment by supporting the eighth edition of S|Style, an exhibition project of Fondazione Pitti Discovery, with the aim of valorising a generation of international fashion designers committed to sustainable development. Cuoio di Toscana also played a leading role at the Tuscan fair by presenting the Infinity Mirror installation, dedicated to the silver special edition of the iconic moccasin characterised by the Green Sole, the manifesto of the Consortium’s sustainable values. A conceptual and immersive project characterised by an infinite projection of the shoe, through mirrored surfaces: just as a mirror inserted in an environment projects what surrounds it without modifying it, in the same way Cuoio di Toscana – by recovering the raw material from food waste – succeeds in reintroducing it into the market, after vegetable tanning in a vat, offering an environmentally friendly product.

Infinity Mirror

Green George: the beauty of the timeless classic

The Marche-based handcrafted footwear brand founded in 1971 presented its collection for next summer at Pitti Uomo in Florence, made of timeless style, meticulous craftsmanship where every step is fundamental to obtain a shoe of the highest quality and the bearer of a distinctive personality. The protagonists are once again classic and timeless models such as Derby loafers, boat moccasins and Slip-ons.

In particular, we find the boat model in soft dove-coloured suede, with an ultra-light rubber sole to offer reliable grip without weighing down. Ideal workmanship guarantees unparalleled flexibility and comfort, making it a must-have for those seeking discreet elegance and unparalleled comfort.

Then we have the moccasin made of fine dark brown suede leather, characterised by a Blake construction that ensures extraordinary comfort, allowing the sole to be flexible. The green leather sole, a distinctive mark of the Green George style, further underlines the exclusivity of this moccasin.

Diadora Utility wins the Compasso D’oro

The Permanent Observatory of Design of the ADI (Association for Industrial Design) has awarded Diadora Utility the historic and authoritative Compasso D’Oro prize, now in its 28th edition. The award attests to the commitment and dedication that the brand has been placing, for more than 25 years, not only in the search for solutions for the safety and well-being of workers but also in the protection of the environment.
The award concerns in particular the Glove Eco safety shoe, designed by Cristian Ardissono, Diadora Utility Design Leader, which represents the perfect combination of high technical performance, high quality materials and sustainability.
The rigorous selection process for the Compasso D’oro was brilliantly passed, leading to the awarding of the footwear in the ‘Design for Work’ category, with the following motivation: Safety at work encouraged through the reduction of the weight of protective apparatus, comfort in use and a new form-function relationship, which intends to overcome the punitive idea generally conveyed by technical shoes.
The jury recognised the work done by Diadora Utility in creating a product that combines aesthetics and functionality in an excellent way, choosing Glove Eco among the 248 products in the ADI Design Index 2022. The appreciation was for the modern, eye-catching design of the shoe and the attention to detail in its manufacture.
“Winning the ‘Nobel Prize for Design’ is a source of pride for us” says President Enrico Moretti Polegato, “bringing beauty also in the world of safety is possible and is what Diadora Utility works on every day with great dedication. This award confirms our ability to merge technological development and materials research in design products such as Glove Eco and encourages us to pursue our values of sustainability and innovation. Diadora Utility’s commitment is to continue to provide cutting-edge solutions to meet the needs of workers in every sector, always keeping their well-being and safety at the centre of our actions”.
The Glove Eco work shoe will be exhibited at the new ADI Design Museum – Compasso d’Oro in Milan and will be featured in international exhibitions dedicated to Made in Italy design.

Diadora President Enrico Moretti Polegato (right) with Cristian Ardissono, Diadora Utility Design Leader

New european sustainability regulations affect everyone, not just the big names

According to EU rules, businesses must provide truthful information to consumers and must refrain from deceiving them in order to influence their choices. EU rules on unfair commercial practices enable national enforcement authorities to curb a wide range of unfair commercial practices.”

So says part of the article published at the end of February on the European Commission’s website which talks about the commitment made by Zalando, following a dialogue with the European Commission itself, to remove the misleading sustainability labels and icons appearing next to the products offered on its platform. Indications that could mislead consumers about the environmental characteristics of products. Instead, Zalando will provide clear information about the environmental benefits of the products, such as the percentage of recycled materials used.

This is just a case study to introduce the topic of this article, which would like to make the shoe and bag production chain aware of the important changes coming up on the sustainability front: the Green Deal promoted by the European Union is in full implementation and companies must be increasingly aware of this so as to organise themselves adequately to comply with the demands coming from their customers, otherwise they will lose competitiveness and may be forced out of the market.

A new concept for Arsutoria Trend Area at Texworld Paris (1-3 July 2024)

During the next edition of Texworld Paris, in Paris Port de Versailles on 1-3 July 2024, Arsutoria will organize the trend area with materials and components for AW 25/26.

A new trend area concept has been developed by Arsutoria and Messe Frankfurt, the third project together after those in Cape Town and New York.

Together with the materials showcase made by Arsutoria partners, in Paris there will be 5 italian tanneries by ECOTAN: Camaleonte, Hashtag, Antiba, Polaris and White Industry attending the event with their own area to present ECOTAN leathers developed in collaboration with Arsutoria Trends.

EMU Australia presents ‘Nature’s Sublime’ Collection 

The collection celebrates living ‘EMU style’, valuing quality over quantity, reconnecting people with nature. In particular, we find STINGER MICRO, the women’s ankle boots in soft and comfortable water-resistant Australian sheepskin, with an iconic silhouette and available in numerous colours. BLURRED, the perfect boot for every outdoor adventure, with waterproof rubber trim and hiking-inspired details. Not forgetting MAYBERRY, the perfect slippers for relaxing at home or for a casual look. Very soft and comfortable, made of natural sheepskin, they guarantee exceptional comfort, but thanks to their hardwearing sole they can also be used outdoors.

MAYBERRY
BLURRED


Dragon Diffusion: timeless elegance

Present in the Superstylist section at Pitti Uomo, the brand is characterised by its ultra-soft and lightweight bags, which are made with natural dyes and hand-woven.   ‘Rosanna’, ‘Santa Croce’ and ‘Triple Jump’ are just some of the it bags signed Dragon Diffusion, whose unisex collections are now sold in the main Italian luxury outlets such as Luisa Viaroma, Di Vincenzo Boutique and international ones such as Bergdorf Goodman (USA), Le Bon Marche (France), La Samaritaine (France), Harrods (UK), Harvey Nichols (UK) and The End (UK).


BIRKENSTOCK presents Shinjuku

The Shinjuku model draws its inspiration from nature and technology and stems from the conviction that the foot is the perfect technology par excellence. The new model marks an evolution of BIRKENSTOCK’s functional sole and its authentic design philosophy. The Shinjuku’s distinctive, high-impact style combines the exceptional comfort and support of the original BIRKENSTOCK footbed with rugged, outdoor-inspired elements that invite you to go out and discover the world.

The Shinjuku offers a renewal of the classic footbed, featuring a combination of natural materials and an innovative sole. The anatomical cork and latex footbed is in fact covered in microfibre, and the optimised single-component sole is designed to allow easy water drainage and facilitate grip on concrete surfaces. Flexible grooves at the forefoot and heel strike allow for fluid foot movement.

The innovative outsole provides excellent abrasion resistance and durability, while the high-quality nubuck leather heel with foam padding adapts to the foot. The durable and water-repellent upper is made of the highest quality materials, which are designed to last. Other interesting features include a new, rustproof, quick-opening metal buckle and an exclusive strap sewn onto the shoe – sporting the BIRKENSTOCK logo in large letters – complete this outdoor-inspired model.


04651: the call of Madeira

04651 is the telephone prefix of the island of Sky: an ideal place where, with a bag and a few essentials, one can take refuge at the weekend to relax and devote oneself. This is the philosophy of the brand that proposes a global style, made up of a few essential and informal elements, suitable for a variety of occasions. The upcoming SS 2025 draws inspiration from the picturesque island of Madeira.   The seasonal colours – red, mint and blue – are inspired by the traditional costumes of the island, while classic shades such as taupe, beige, white, navy and black are complemented by a forest-inspired green and a delicate sky blue. Madeira’s unique nature and architecture are reflected in the designs. Abstract palm leaf prints on the shirts evoke the island’s lush forests, while motifs on swimwear and shirts recall the handcrafted tile work. Wave motifs, inspired by traditional Madeiran markets, bring back the island’s lively atmosphere.   As always, 04651/ emphasises comfort and quality, for a collection that is the perfect companion for every occasion.  


Making of: Arsutoria School. Who invests in training?

In an article in La Conceria, the Director of Arsutoria, the workshop school, describes the transformations that have affected the market and that inevitably also reverberate on the training scene:

“We find ourselves at an unusual intersection between two situations that are in blatant contrast to each other. On the one hand the objective need for generational change. On the other a stagnation of the locomotive that has been driving the shoe and bag manufacturing industry, luxury, in recent years”.

If 2022/23 were great years for manufacturing, today the scenario has changed, and the attitude is very cautious. In the meantime, the manufacturing field has changed: groups working on the high-end continue to open and/or purchase factories.

In this scenario, what happens to training? In a nutshell: the big ones continue to invest, the medium-sized and small ones are paralysed.

“The big ones invest for several reasons: because training, innovation and sustainability are the pillars of a value proposition they all share. Because the increase in average age remains a reality. Because the current downturn in luxury cannot be structural and those with broad shoulders make their investment plans looking at the medium and long term. Finally, because in the years of euphoria, people with no, or limited, experience were often hired, and now they need to be brought up to speed

The problem instead concerns the ‘independent’ contractors. For them, it is risky to invest in people, the typical fixed cost of manufacturing companies. What will happen in the next 12 months?

Difficult to say – Pasca concludes -. The big teams continue to keep their engines warm and training remains a priority for now. The economic and financial difficulties of small and medium-sized independ- ent companies could, however, put immediately available skills on the labour mar- ket and cool the focus on investment in training a little. We will see