Arsutoria Studio
ArsTannery Magazine

TODESCO, come and see how the Purple system works

Drying leather is one of the most energy-intensive steps in the finishing process and heavily influences the calculation of the Carbon Footprint of the manufacturing process. Now technology is coming to the rescue. At the Simac Tanning Tech 2023, last September in Milan, Todesco and GSC Group presented a new technology that is the result of a three-year project in 2020 called Purple. “The idea was born and took shape in the immediate post-pandemic period, at a time when energy and gas costs were soaring,” explains Paolo Todesco. Purple is an innovative technology covered by an international patent, which reduces energy consumption during the drying of the leather after the reassembly and fixing processes.

How does it work?

“The Purple UV unit – the manager explains – is a station located at the end of the drying tunnel that eliminates temperature as a catalyst in chemical reactions: the catalyst is ultraviolet light, and this keeps the temperature of the leather below 40°”

The first industrialised system is located at Todesco’s R&D area in Creazzo (Vicenza) and operates at standard working speeds >12 m/min. According to data collected by the company, the Purple system guarantees energy savings of up to 66% compared to a steam tunnel and 73% compared to an infrared tunnel. Emissions are reduced by 57% compared to steam-powered drying and 75% compared to infrared.

“The resulting leather is less sticky after finishing due to the lower solvent content and the ‘cold’ process eliminates any sintering effect on the surface”.

The development of the Purple system saw the collaboration of the leather chemical company GSC Group, which is based just 10 km from the Todesco factory in the tanning district of Arzignano. The collaboration resulted in a chemical package specifically for the use of UV technology, with very low VOC content, and performance in line with all OEM and regulatory standards.

Syn-Bios, strategic alliance for India and neighbouring markets

Syn-Bios SpA, a leading company in the chemical tanning industry for more than 35 years, has entered into a strategic agreement to strengthen its local presence and develop those foreign markets that have significant growth potential.

Pidilite Industries, which is among the first Asian companies in the sector and a pioneer in the Indian chemical industry, is headquartered in Mumbai and is one of the Indian economy giants, thanks to its annual turnover of around 1.5 billion euros.

Thanks to the exclusive partnership, Pidilite Industries will only represent Syn-Bios labelled products – in addition to its own – and manage their distribution in agreed markets through its established channels. Syn-Bios, on the other hand, will have to go through Pidilite channels to sell in the selected countries.

The companies aim to set new benchmarks in the industry, raise the bar higher and higher in terms of quality, as well as to offer safe and excellent products that are also sustainable.

Thanks to its constant commitment in research and development, Syn-Bios was among the first companies in the world to obtain Level 3 ZDHC certification, an aspect that certainly influenced the choice of the Indian giant; Pidilite was searching for the best quality in the chemical segment, thus it first approached Syn-Bios.

After London and New York, Lineapelle arrives in Milan

Lineapelle’s 2024 agenda opened with two important appointments that, as is now customary, anticipate the big event dedicated to leather, materials and components to be held in Milan in February.

The first event took place on 23 January at the Ham Yard Hotel: here ‘Lineapelle London’ fielded 43 exhibitors (23 Italian, 20 foreign) attracting a very specific target of visitors made up of young stylists, start-ups specialised in fashion accessories and brands looking for smart and imaginative solutions and materials.

The second step was ‘Lineapelle New York’, staged on 31 January and 1 February at the Metropolitan Pavilion in Manhattan with 111 exhibitors, of which 50 were Italian. An event that registered a good turnout of operators interested in the latest innovations in the sector.

With these assumptions we will arrive at the highlight of Lineapelle 103, scheduled at Fiera Milano Rho from 20 to 22 February, which will host some 1,150 exhibitors, in line with the February 2023 edition, from 41 countries. The event presents itself as a true creative, commercial and cultural platform that will propose an articulated list of contents and will take place in partial concurrence with the exhibitions of the Confindustria Moda galaxy, scheduled from 18 to 21 February: Micam (footwear), Mipel (leather goods), TheOneMilano (clothing).

Hong Kong, all set for the return of APLF 2024

Finally, after five years, the Asian leather fair will make its long-awaited return to Hong Kong, from 19 to 21 March 2024.

After the Dubai and Bangkok experiences, which were positive but undoubtedly different in terms of relevance and scope, Asia’s most important platform for the leather industry can return to its natural venue at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC).

A return that naturally implies an increase in expectations on the part of the international market with the crucial question being asked by every operator: will the Chinese event be able to regain the momentum and international appeal it possessed before the pandemic?

Positive signs are not lacking and the entire leather sector hopes that this will be the case because it is undoubtedly useful for everyone to be able to count on a qualified and recognised exhibition platform in such an important geographical area. The premises on the eve are certainly encouraging. The event next March has received confirmation of participation from over 20 world associations and more than 800 exhibitors.

As in the past, national groups from the following countries are planned: Brazil, China, France, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, Korea, Pakistan, Spain Taiwan, China, Thailand, Turkey, UK, USA.

Italian participation is expected to be strong with the traditional national group of tanneries (led by UNIC) and that of tannery machinery manufacturers (ASSOMAC), which also aggregates chemical auxiliary manufacturers.

Other substantial national groups, in addition to China, are represented by Brazilians, Spaniards, French, Turks, Pakistanis, Indians and Americans.

Alongside the Leather section, the event will, as always, host the Materials+ (materials and components) and Fashion Access (footwear and leather goods) areas.

Finally, as always, a dense programme of conferences, seminars and fashion trends will round off the event.

BARNINI, the future of finishing is in automation

Active since 1965, Barnini srl is an important world reference in the design and construction of leather spraying plants, to which over time presses for ironing and embossing leather have been added through the Mostardini brand acquired many years ago. The most recent branch of activity is robotics, developed through the BRS division ‘Barnini Robot System’. We spoke about this and more at the end of January with brothers Matteo and Lorenzo Simoni, the two young managers at the helm of the mechanical company in Castelfranco di Sotto (Pisa), which has made investment in Research and Development its strong point, aiming to offer its customers tailor-made solutions capable of optimising the leather processing.

You presented your first robots at Tanning Tech 2022, arousing great interest among tanneries. You have come a long way since then…

“We were the first to succeed in getting robots to carry out the operation of loading hides onto machines, undoubtedly a repetitive and onerous operation for workers. We have worked very hard on this project, as proven by the various patents we have filed, and today we are very satisfied with the results obtained so far, both technological and commercial”.

What problems have you encountered?

“The first prototype was born in our R&D laboratory for whole automotive hides. With the experience gained from the first robot, we were able to meet further requirements dictated by the type of leather, its softness and the space available. Today, we are able to handle the various types of leather on both trestle and flatbed. The BRS division has also realised a robotic spraying line called ART for painting leather panels for ready-to-wear fashion. This system allows finishes that are not possible on traditional spraying equipment”.

What kind of tanneries are interested in including robots in the processing cycle?

“There is a lot of interest in the market, especially from tanneries producing automotive leathers where large production runs are normally made. The robots used to load the hides onto the automotive equipment allow two people per machine per shift to be freed, thus offering significant labour savings. For the whole of 2023, we worked exclusively for the Pasubio tannery, which asked to absorb all possible production and where we gained a lot of experience. Now we are opening up to the market”.

Turning to the finishing plants, what’s new?

“We have installed a new, large spraying plant in our in-house workshop. A fully automatic line equipped, of course, with a robot for loading the hides, an automatic product dosing system, an infrared drying tunnel with a continuous rope cleaning system, and finally an automatic stacker. This is a line that requires no personnel to operate, except to programme and set up the work. Next to this system, we will soon be installing a major innovation, which we will talk about later”.

From your point of view, what are the remaining challenges?

“For our part, we aim to further develop automation. It is essential to keep all processing parameters under control in order to guarantee repeatable results. At the same time, we are always listening, because another fundamental issue is the customisation of the plants: every tannery has its own particular requirements depending on the type of product”.

How did 2023 go and how does the new year look?

“2023 went well: we recorded 15% growth compared to 2022 and 50% more than in 2021, and we have orders that cover us for a good part of this year. But there is no shortage of worries for the future, because production in the main Italian districts has slowed down in recent months and there is great uncertainty with regard to international market trends”.

GSC Group, sustainable and circular leathers with OMW technology

There is growing automotive market interest in OMW (Olive Mill Wastewater) technology, which exploits the tanning power of olive oil vegetation water, a waste by-product of olive pressing.

“The tanning system based on the internationally patented OMW technology is completely metal-free and results in automotive interior leathers that offer performance comparable to those obtained from traditional tanning. It is therefore a perfect alternative without compromising on the quality, performance or appearance of the finished leather”

The rationale behind the project that led GSC Group to develop an ad-hoc product line is the reuse of by-products of the agro-food industry that would otherwise have to be disposed of in sewage treatment plants. Olive mill wastewaters, in fact, although free of pathogens, heavy metals and viruses, are harmful to the environment due to their high levels of acidity and their anti-microbial and phytotoxic power. But it is precisely these characteristics that make them interesting for the tanning industry, which moreover, by using waste from another industrial sector, realises a perfect example of circular economy.

“We believe that transparency of information is crucial for building trust and lasting relationships; therefore, we have created a frequently asked questions (FAQ) section on OMW technology on our website. This section provides comprehensive and detailed answers to the most common questions we are asked.”

https://www.gscgroup.it/faq

The magic of cinema in the Dermacolor 2024 calendar

All the magic of cinema in Dermacolor’s 2024 calendar. The Cal 2024 is a tribute to international cult movies, where the characteristic “cow in leather” symbol of the Tuscan leather chemicals brand is the protagonist of some of the most famous posters of international cinema, such as Kill Bill, Titanic, Back to the Future, Harry Potter and Star Wars.

112 plates created by the artist Noemi Vignozzi who used the new digital illustration technique. An innovative choice that reflects the “Unleash your creativity” project, born in 2020 to communicate the ability of Dermacolor to make concrete the ideas and requests of tanneries thanks to its specialised technical staff, its research and analysis laboratories, and its entire structure that always works in line with the rules on environmental sustainability and safety at work.

The exhibition ‘Unleash your creativity – The Cal 2024’ has been set up in the meeting room of the new Dermacolor headquarters, where it is possible to admire the 12 installations of the calendar up close.

Stahl expands ZDHC level 3-certified portfolio

Stahl, the German world leader in speciality coatings and treatments for flexible substrates, also very much involved in the development of increasingly sustainable leather chemicals, has achieved Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) MRSL 3.1 Gateway certification for 2,151 products in its portfolio. This achievement underlines Stahl’s ongoing commitment to the ZDHC mission of achieving the highest standards for sustainable chemical management.

ZDHC certification enables companies working in the footwear, apparel and accessories value chains to demonstrate their commitment to responsible chemical management, with the ultimate goal being zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. Level 3 certification represents the highest level of conformity with the ZDHC certification programme. To achieve this, Stahl’s formulated chemical products and raw materials were verified and tested against ZDHC’s latest Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL 3.1) by Eurofins | Chem-MAP®. The Chem-MAP® programme was also used to audit the chemical management and stewardship processes at three of Stahl’s manufacturing sites.

“This latest expansion of our ZDHC-compliant portfolio is another key milestone in our journey towards sustainable chemical management. We will continue to work tirelessly with our value chain partners to achieve the ZDHC vision: a world in which better chemistry leads to the protection of life, land and water”.

Michael Costello, Group Director Environmental, Social & Governance di Stahl

IPR, a virtuous and concrete path towards sustainability

The UNI/PdR 134:2022 Guidelines mark a turning point for small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in the field of sustainability. By introducing a rating system from 1 to 5, these guidelines offer SMEs a practical tool to assess their commitment to sustainability, ranging from ‘Insufficient’ to ‘Excellent’.

A case in point is IPR S.p.A., which achieved a rating of 4, confirming a deep commitment and well-defined strategies for sustainable management. This result not only reflects the seriousness of IPR S.p.A.’s approach, but also stimulates the entire supply chain to adopt more sustainable practices.

More info ath this link

Apego, a long history that translates into experience

Almost 60 years of history in the world of footwear moulds, this is the remarkable wealth of experience that Apego makes available to the market.

Founded in 1966 by Angelo Montagna (still active in the company despite having recently turned 90) and two other partners, Apego became, at the beginning of the last decade of the last century, wholly owned by the Montagna family.

A reference point in the high-tech sector of footwear moulds, it has counted the most important national and international companies among its customers for many years. Apego found a home in Cilavegna (in the province of Pavia), successfully inserted itself in the Vigevano area and immediately specialized in the footwear sector, making steel and aluminum moulds for compression rubber.

The 1970s defined the character of the company, which focused on specialization, through the use of precision machinery, and the development of the foreign market. At that time Apego began to make its way in the industry by working with materials such as PVC and TR, which allowed more complex shapes to be moulded with the help of innovative techniques and thanks to electroforming machinery that enabled finishes that were unthinkable at the time.

Today, in addition to the Montagna family, about forty people are employed in the company. Highly skilled employees and advanced technologies represent the perfect partnership to interact with customers during all stages of mould making, from design development to manufacturing, and to provide a complete service: consulting, CAD/CAM design, rapid prototyping, CNC machining, and mould testing.

Apego, today, exports about 85 percent of its production to more than 30 countries. Mainly Europe, North, Central and South America, Asia and the Pacific. It has a loyal customer base thanks to a corporate philosophy that preaches scrupulous attention to every single detail.