The much hoped-for recovery predicted in the spring has not materialized, and the German footwear sector appears to be suffering from substantial stagnation in the first half of 2024, with many companies predicting a significant drop in production. According to Manfred Junkert, CEO of the Federal Association of the German Footwear and Leather Goods Industry, “For this reason, the industry also sees little sign of recovery in the second half of 2024. It can even be expected that, due to the many additional bureaucratic burdens, footwear will be significantly more expensive next year.”
In the first half of 2024, in fact, the German footwear industry had a turnover of about 1.15 billion euros. In the corresponding period of 2023, total footwear industry sales reached about 1.17 billion euros, a slight decline of 1.7 percent. In the first half of 2024, domestic sales generated 877 million euros.
In the same period last year, the amount was about 860 million euros, a nominal increase of 1.98 percent. From January to June 2024, foreign sales were 273 million euros. compared to 307 million euros in 2023, a decrease of more than 11 percent. Of this 273 million euros, 167 million euros were sales within the euro zone (2023: 191 million euros).
The footwear industry will therefore face significant challenges in the coming months, continuing along the path of investment in digitization and sustainability despite weak consumer motivation. In particular, the industry is waiting for the right impulses from the government, with laws that will unleash the strengths of the economy, stimulating it, particularly with regard to small and medium-sized enterprises, and finally-as often announced-reducing red tape instead of increasing it. The governments in Brussels and Berlin are also called upon more than ever to ensure a level playing field for competitiveness. This is especially true of the online sales platforms provided by Temu and Shein. They intrude from the outside into the market, most often in a duty-free manner, and do not have to fear monitoring of compliance with sustainability standards.
In the ever-changing landscape of fashion and design, REFERENC wants to challenge the constraints of time by offering the classics in a new and different way. REFERENC shoes are produced in Italy, in Tuscany, and in Portugal, in Porto, world-renowned regions for leather goods and luxury craftsmanship, with historical know-how and craftsmanship experience passed down from generation to generation. REFERENC works closely with family-owned factories to develop each style and ensure the highest quality production. From the last to the sole, every material is carefully sourced and processed in Europe, with a focus on longevity and sustainability.
The distinctive feature of this sneaker-boot is the Wrap Tech technology, perfect for providing extreme lightness without sacrificing the grip and protection features offered by Vibram soles. Thanks to the innovative design, the sole continues on the upper, limiting the production of waste and allowing greater protection at the sides of the shoe. The outsole then becomes the star of the shoe, both in terms of performance and functionality and as a design element that defines an unconventional style. The breathable hemp fiber upper meets Vibram’s best technologies in the outsole, which incorporates Vibram’s cutting-edge Litebase technology, designed to dramatically decrease tread weight by about 30 percent through a 50 percent reduction in rubber bottom, while maintaining the same tread block layout and shape. Together with the Vibram Megagrip compound, which offers unparalleled grip properties on dry, wet and uneven terrain.
The mission of the brand, which made its debut in 2009, is to offer an unprecedented luxury experience through the proposal of bags and accessories made of exquisitely crafted leather, according to artisanal techniques and in small production runs, with the possibility of customization. One example is the Iraca Palma ‘Elisa’ bag from the SS25 collection, presented at the last edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence, an expression of high craftsmanship and attention to every single detail.
Every Mel Boteri piece and all leathers and components are sourced from European suppliers based in Spain, Italy, Portugal and France, who apply high standards of quality control and fair labor practices, guaranteeing a product that is good for those who buy it and those who make it.
Diadora Utility is back with a major new advertising campaign dedicated to the Run Net Air-Box footwear which, thanks to its innovative Air-Box breathability system, has already won over hundreds of thousands of workers. ‘Sicurezza di Vincere’ (i.e. security of winning) is the new claim that celebrates the most appreciated feature of Run Net Air-Box: breathability, synonymous with comfort and freedom of movement even on the most intense working days. The integrated campaign will be broadcast on TV on all Mediaset networks and on DAZN, reaching a wide audience also through the main national radio stations, sports newspapers and an extensive digital strategy.
At the last edition of Pitti Uomo, KEEN presented the new variant of the ultra-light and comfortable Hyperport sandal, offered in Algae Green and Okenia Pink colors (for women and men), inspired by the vibrant aquatic ecosystems that characterize our planet. The result of a collaboration with Hiking Patrol, the collection celebrates the diversity of life in marine environments and the crucial importance they have in maintaining ecological balance. KEEN and HP had already collaborated in AW23, donating part of the proceeds from sales to EOCA, and both brands share the mission of enabling everyone to enjoy outdoor experiences with high-quality, functional and durable garments that respect the environment at every stage of production.
From Schmid comes a revolution in the world of materials with Reborn Skin, a new standard of excellence that redefines sustainability and performance in the fashion and leather industries. In the era of Artificial Intelligence, innovation is not just about circuits and software; it extends to the creation of materials that are changing the face of the industry. Guided by a vision of a sustainable future, Schmid collaborated with engineers and chemists for over a year to develop an unprecedented material: Reborn Skin.
REBORN SKIN: REAL LEATHER, RENEWED! Reborn Skin is the first material in the world that can truly be defined as “made of leather.” Created through a pioneering process of cold plasma sintering—known as “NTP Technology”—and mixed with plant-based thermoplastic elastomers, Reborn Skin originates from the waste products of Italian tanneries. These wastes, from both chemical and vegetable tanning processes, are micronized and transformed into a new generation of polymers, capable of being molded into fabrics and objects of exceptional quality.
THE ELEGANCE OF SUSTAINABILITY This innovative biocomposite not only offers a quality comparable to real leather but exceeds every expectation in terms of resistance and adaptability. Thanks to advanced hot calendering technology, Reborn Skin is not just a material but an elegant fusion of authenticity and sustainability. Compared to so-called “eco-leather,” which is made from petroleum-derived plastics, Reborn Skin is biodegradable and utilizes up to 45% tannery waste, significantly reducing environmental impact. It is 100% recyclable for life, with CO2 storage up to 76.8%.
A NEW STANDARD OF PERFORMANCE Reborn Skin goes beyond merely emulating natural leather; it is a milestone in the materials industry, thanks to its advanced properties: – Heat resistance up to 180°C- Fire resistance thanks to advanced nanotechnologies- Superior chemical resistance and long durability- UV resistance with sustainable nanotechnological additives- Optimal elasticity and breathability- No accumulation of static electricity on the material- Antimicrobial and antibacterial treatment for natural protection- Fragrance with plant-based fillers such as menthol and eucalyptus for long-lasting freshness
THE FUTURE IS HERE This material not only elevates the fashion industry but also opens new horizons in accessory design, furniture, and automotive sectors. Certified according to strict LCA (Life Cycle Assessment) standards, Reborn Skin is the ideal choice for those seeking uncompromised quality and sustainability.
DISCOVER THE DIFFERENCE WITH REBORN SKIN Investing in Reborn Skin is not just a step towards a greener future but also a commitment to excellence. Schmid continues to innovate, exploring new horizons like denim recycling, to ensure our world is more sustainable and beautiful, one step at a time.
A graduate in Law from the University of Parma, with a ‘Master certificate on the protection of industrial property’, he specialised in ‘Sustainable business model: creation and implementation of corporate sustainability models’ at the Ca’ Foscari Challenge school in Venice in collaboration with Ernst&Young.
He began his career at Pirelli where he worked at the Milan office and then from 2002 in Sao Paulo, Brazil, moving to TIM Brasil at the Rio de Janeiro office.
Returning to Telecom Italia in 2012, he joined the Veronafiere Group in 2013 as General Manager of Veronafiere Servizi S.p.A., before moving to the parent company Veronafiere S.p.A. as Director of Operations and from 2019 to date as Managing Director of Polo Fieristico Veronese S.p.A.
“I am embarking on my new path with enthusiasm – says Giorgio Possagno, the new General Manager of Assocalzaturifici and Managing Director of Anci Servizi – with the commitment as of now to strengthen the listening to all members, continue to grow and innovate internal services and products, keeping at the centre the mission of bringing even the smallest distances that there may be between the numerous production districts, with a view to strengthening the central role of Confindustria. I am certain that, on the strength of the professional skills of all the directors, management and employees, together we will be able to positively face the important challenges that await us”.
A legacy that grows, season after season: the pact between the fashion events Lineapelle, MICAM Milano, Milano Fashion&Jewels, MIPEL, The One Milano and Simac Tanning Tech, which open the exhibition season at Fiera Milano in September, is renewed.
The concomitance of the events underlines once again the commitment to working as a system, demonstrating the fundamental importance of uniting supply chains that share history and values.
The fashion industry is a fundamental pillar not only for the Italian economy, but also for the global one, representing a sector of excellence that attracts buyers from all over the world. With a total of 2,090 brands, 47% of which come from abroad and from over 60 countries, the trade fairs demonstrate their ability to innovate and influence international trends.
MICAM Milan – footwear
“We have a positive sentiment about the fair”, says Giovanna Ceolini, President of MICAM. “The current market situation has forced many companies to look for new customers. Many of them have chosen Micam to return to the market. Buyers also cannot stop because customers are asking for perhaps less quantity, but definitely novelty. So, we expect the fair to go well. For our part, we have done everything we can to promote a pleasant and interesting visitor experience by adding the Taste Arena to the already well-known Micam X and Micam Academy information areas. Among other things, the catwalk shows are back and much space will be given to up-and-coming designers.
Obviously, there are many difficulties and there is still amazement at the slowdown in luxury that no one expected. We must analyse the historical moment well and understand that the changes taking place are structural, that the consumer has changed, and his desires no longer include a wardrobe full of clothes and fashion accessories. We must take note of this and, as companies, structure ourselves accordingly”.
MIPEL – bags and leather goods
The entire fashion world is going through a complicated moment that is being affected by the perfect storm that has hit the macroeconomic landscape: inflationary phenomena and repercussions on credit, rising transport and raw material costs, wars that have brought two important markets for the sector to a standstill, and the slowdown in consumption even for luxury goods. This is the framework provided by Claudia Sequi, President of MIPEL. “If 2023 closed at a substantial breakeven compared to 2022, 2024 shows very negative data. Sentiment is not positive, and a possible recovery will hopefully take place in 2025. In addition to asking the institutions to support an important industry like ours, it is also essential that we work towards structural changes at the level of the five-year industrial plan in order to facilitate the much talked-about reshoring. To be an attractive country, we need to work on the tax wedge, labour flexibility and the tax burden for companies. Despite these great difficulties, the new and innovative collections of more than 200 brands, which are always proactive, will be on show at the fair”.
LINEAPELLE – leathers, accessories, components and materials
For Fulvia Bacchi, Director of Lineapelle, “the sector is going through a depressed phase”. What is worrying is that no significant change of direction is in sight in the short term. “Lineapelle, in terms of exhibitors and pre-registrations, always attracts a lot of interest because the industry recognises its characteristics as an ideal place for research and innovation. At the business level we cannot have many expectations because we are witnessing a structural change in the market that is not only due to the geo-political situation. In the near future, we expect many more aggregations and collaborations between companies. Unfortunately, we also expect inevitable selection. Even the Italian government will not be able to stem the epochal change, which has primarily involved consumers, to any great extent”.
SIMAC TANNING TECH – machines and technologies
“Although the market moment is very complex for the whole industry, we have high expectations for our exhibition because investing in new technologies could mean a market turnaround”, emphasises MariaVittoria Brustia, President of SIMAC TANNING TECH.
“Also because the innovation proposed by the exhibitors goes in the direction of the market’s hot topics: sustainability, traceability, artificial intelligence and automation.
The event will also feature some colourful notes, given the celebrations for the 50th anniversary of the event. We have organised a lounge area where you will be able to retrace the history of SIMAC through photos and touching technologies, right up to interesting innovations presented for the first time.
With around 15,000 square metres of covered exhibition space and 320 exhibitors, 26% of whom come from abroad (Portugal, Spain, Turkey, China and Germany are the main countries represented), the fair confirms itself as the international benchmark for technology”.
Men this season prefer understated and comfortable textures, linear shapes, and smart wardrobes with a few essential pieces. Monochromatic and neutral shades enriched with checks and stripes. Disappearing are logos and monograms. The Riviera trend, with its retro chic, is in the foreground. As far as materials are concerned, raffia, straw, wicker and rattan win for a taste with an artisanal flavor thanks to skilful games of weaving. Trends found in Dior, Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Prada and Gucci proposals. Focus on Sandals, Lace-ups and Loafers.
Our Trend Analyst Mariacristina Rossi guides us to discover the major trends seen on the catwalks:
Subscribe to watch the full video.
This video is a preview of the trend analysis made by Arsutoria experts.
