04651 is the telephone prefix of the island of Sky: an ideal place where, with a bag and a few essentials, one can take refuge at the weekend to relax and devote oneself. This is the philosophy of the brand that proposes a global style, made up of a few essential and informal elements, suitable for a variety of occasions. The upcoming SS 2025 draws inspiration from the picturesque island of Madeira. The seasonal colours – red, mint and blue – are inspired by the traditional costumes of the island, while classic shades such as taupe, beige, white, navy and black are complemented by a forest-inspired green and a delicate sky blue. Madeira’s unique nature and architecture are reflected in the designs. Abstract palm leaf prints on the shirts evoke the island’s lush forests, while motifs on swimwear and shirts recall the handcrafted tile work. Wave motifs, inspired by traditional Madeiran markets, bring back the island’s lively atmosphere. As always, 04651/ emphasises comfort and quality, for a collection that is the perfect companion for every occasion.
Making of: Arsutoria School. Who invests in training?
In an article in La Conceria, the Director of Arsutoria, the workshop school, describes the transformations that have affected the market and that inevitably also reverberate on the training scene:
“We find ourselves at an unusual intersection between two situations that are in blatant contrast to each other. On the one hand the objective need for generational change. On the other a stagnation of the locomotive that has been driving the shoe and bag manufacturing industry, luxury, in recent years”.
If 2022/23 were great years for manufacturing, today the scenario has changed, and the attitude is very cautious. In the meantime, the manufacturing field has changed: groups working on the high-end continue to open and/or purchase factories.
In this scenario, what happens to training? In a nutshell: the big ones continue to invest, the medium-sized and small ones are paralysed.
“The big ones invest for several reasons: because training, innovation and sustainability are the pillars of a value proposition they all share. Because the increase in average age remains a reality. Because the current downturn in luxury cannot be structural and those with broad shoulders make their investment plans looking at the medium and long term. Finally, because in the years of euphoria, people with no, or limited, experience were often hired, and now they need to be brought up to speed
The problem instead concerns the ‘independent’ contractors. For them, it is risky to invest in people, the typical fixed cost of manufacturing companies. What will happen in the next 12 months?
Difficult to say – Pasca concludes -. The big teams continue to keep their engines warm and training remains a priority for now. The economic and financial difficulties of small and medium-sized independ- ent companies could, however, put immediately available skills on the labour mar- ket and cool the focus on investment in training a little. We will see
Trends Autumn/Winter 2025/26
An arc of solid, architectural light to symbolise the transition from previous seasons to those to come. Light is concrete and made tangible in its form.
The entrance to a reality of profound and extraordinary research into lines, volumes, structure and innovation. A reality that knows how to combine traditional tailoring with sophisticated research into workmanship, always maintaining charm and elegance, in keeping with the new aesthetic sensibility.
This is the subtext that accompanies and runs through the four trends proposed, a concept that keeps the artistic process of the next Collections in perfect balance.
Discover all the inspirational trends in the latest extract from Arsutoria 489
Campomaggi presents the new ‘Outdoor’ line
The Made in Italy handcrafted bag brand, created by Marco Campomaggi in 1983, presents as an absolute novelty in its new Spring Summer 2025 collection the ‘Outdoor’ line, consisting of a new series of backpacks, fanny packs and bags that combine the lightness of nylon and the beauty of vegetable-tanned leather, offering an ideal option for nature lovers and fans of well-made Made in Italy. The collection not only meets the practical needs of outdoor enthusiasts, but is also a tribute to respect and a deep connection with the green world. The combination of high quality materials and functional design makes these accessories ideal for those seeking a perfect balance between practicality and harmony with the environment, interpreting a trend that has clearly emerged in recent years, especially among young people.
Pantofola d’Oro brings its new lifestyle sport luxury to Pitti
With the new SS25 collection presented at Pitti, the Made in Italy luxury brand opens a new chapter in its history to reposition itself in the lifestyle segment. The new shoe embodies Pantofola d’Oro’s distinctive style, combining history, myth and design and going beyond the canonical trainer concept. Lightweight and comfortable, it features carefully crafted details: entirely handmade, the white rubber sole, traditional lacing and leather and suede details give the trainer a touch of elegance. The shoe is available in black and white, with bright details overlapping the upper.
BUFFALO: Retro gets bold
Born in 1979 from an idea of German Mick Conradi, who after a trip to Mexico decided to import into Germany the cowboy boots that had always fascinated him, Buffalo is today linked to the Deichmann Group, and makes use of ecological production systems and materials, with 95% of the footwear certified PETA ‘Vegan Approved’. For next summer, it presents a bold collection, characterised by daring 80s platform soles, mirrored finishes, rhinestone applications, New Goth aesthetics, chunky skater style and hints of the 2000s. Each piece is designed for those who want to make a style statement, embracing comfort without sacrificing design.
GSC GROUP to take part in Freiberg Leather Days
GSC Group announces its participation in the 12th Freiberg Leather Days to be held in Salzburg, Austria, from 12 to 13 June, at the initiative of the German leather chemicals association VGCT and the Freiberg Research Institute FILK.
“We will participate in this prestigious conference, which is highly significant for the European tanning and leather industry, by presenting an innovative study inspired by the result of the IULTCS 2022 and the consequential insights garnered from the ALCA 2024 conference” the leather chemicals company explain.
The title of the study is: “Utilisation of bio-based chemicals evaluation and LCA assessment for the future leather manufacture”. GSC Group specialist lectures will be presented by Riccardo Pasquale, PhD, at 09:15 a.m. on Thursday, June 13th.
Aware of the global need for more environmentally friendly materials, GSC Group has embraced the challenge by committing to reduce hazardous chemicals and develop leather processing products that significantly incorporate renewable sources. Bio-based compounds are gaining prominence in the market and establishing a significant role in the raw material supply chain.
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Soles and heels trends Spring/Summer 2025
Those who move and work in the fashion industry can never neglect the aspects of design, trends and new proposals for future seasons. And so it is, in fact, also for the forthcoming Spring/Summer 2025, in which many soles and structures and heels pursue the search for aesthetically innovative solutions still working on light volumes.
Many are focusing on various aspects of sustainability, starting with the identification of materials that are increasingly devoted to recycling (both as a starting point and as an end-of-life perspective). Many efforts are also being made to research bio-based materials. In addition to this work on materials, however, there are also those who develop production systems and processes that can make the design and construction of structures not only more efficient, but also more environmentally friendly.
Aesthetics and creativity yes, one cannot do without them, but efforts to imagine new perspectives in design and production is undoubtedly the next frontier to look out for.
‘Assomac around the world’: an international presence to promote Italian technologies
The ‘Assomac around the world’ programme continues in 2024, which brings the National Association of Italian Manufacturers of Footwear, Leather Goods and Tanning Machinery to be present at some of the most important international trade fairs starting in January and ending next September, with the special edition for the 50th anniversary of Simac Tanning Tech, which will be held from 17 to 19 at the Milan Rho Fiera.
This intense trade fair activity is part of Assomac’s internationalisation strategy, which aims to promote Italian technologies worldwide and strengthen the competitiveness of its member companies. The aim of these international presences is to promote Italian technologies in the world and strengthen the competitiveness of member companies.
‘Participation in these trade fairs is an important opportunity for our companies to meet international buyers and present their innovative solutions,’ said Agostino Apolito, Director General of Assomac. ‘We are convinced that technology is a key factor for the competitiveness of our sector and we are committed to supporting our companies in their path of innovation.’
The programme started last January with participation with stands and collectives at the Pakistan Mega Leather Show in Lahore, Pakistan. Then it was the turn of Lineapelle New York, from 31 January to 1 February; India International Leather Fair, from 1 to 3 February in Chennai, India; Lineapelle Milano, from 20 to 22 February in Milan, Italy; APLF Leather, from 19 to 21 March in Hong Kong, China. In April (9 -10/04), ‘Assomac around the world’ made a stop in Florence with participation in EP- Summit, the second edition of the Pitti Immagine event dedicated to the relationship between fashion and the digital world, held at the Stazione Leopolda. This was followed by AYSAF, Turkey 2-5 May.
Upcoming events will see the Association present at Shoes and Leather Vietnam, from 10 to 12 July in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam; All China Leather Exhibition in Shanghai, China, from 3 to 5 September . To conclude with the organisation of the special 50th edition of Simac Tanning Tech, from 17 to 19 September.
Assomac participates in these fairs with a series of initiatives, including: company stands, where member companies can present their technologies and innovative solutions; events and workshops, to promote research and technological development in the sector; and B2B meetings, to encourage the creation of business relations between Italian companies and international buyers. In particular, Assomac is dedicating a focus to virtual reality (VR) with the use of visors. For the first time, during the last Simac Tanning Tech, Assomac in collaboration with PIN (Polo Universitario Città di Prato), presented a production plant with machinery for tanning, leather goods and footwear, which could be visited virtually thanks to 3D visors. Virtual reality provided an immersive learning experience, allowing users to explore, investigate and learn through a fist-person approach with a high degree of embodiement. This means that users were able to interact directly and voluntarily with the goods products and production technologies of the sector, enhancing their understanding of the operations involved in the production processes.
New logo for the 50th anniversary of Simac Tanning Tech
On the occasion of the opening of registration applications for Simac Tanning Tech, the world’s leading exhibition dedicated to technologies for the footwear, leather goods and tanning industry, the new official logo celebrating the 50th anniversary of the event was presented. The modern and attractive design retains the iconic elements of the original logo, while the number ‘50’ stands out in the foreground, highlighting the importance of the historic milestone reached. This edition promises to be full of novelties for technologies and machinery for the footwear, tanning and leather goods industry. Starting from the initiatives for the valorisation of the technological innovations presented at the fair, to the networking initiatives.
There will also be moments dedicated to the celebration of the historic anniversary, such as the setting up of an exhibition on technology, which will retrace the history of the sector in a fascinating journey through the evolution of the industry and its future.
The appointment, not to be missed, is therefore in Milan from 17 to 19 September 2024, with the presence of more than 300 exhibitors who will present the latest in technology for the footwear, leather goods and tanning industries.
Info: www.simactanningtech.it