Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Magazine

We want a Simac Tanning Tech more and more connected to the world

People often celebrate victories or achievements. In the case of the 50th edition of SIMAC TANNING TECH, a success story is celebrated with the awareness that the past behind us must serve as a springboard towards the future.

Agostino Apolito, Director of ASSOMAC, the event’s organisers, explains it well: ‘In a difficult and complex economic moment to decipher, we believe that recovery can only come from getting to know better and better the various international markets in which we are present by weaving ever closer relations with market players and, together with them, looking to the future.

That is why the celebration of the 50th edition of the fair will be marked by events capable of promoting international connections and relations. Such as the Gala Evening on 18 September, which will be an opportunity for the approximately 300 guests to develop increasingly effective networking with the different souls that inhabit the panorama of technology and innovation in the footwear, leather goods and leather sectors. The dinner will also give guests the opportunity to attend a talk that will provide brief insights into the influence and repercussions that current geopolitical movements will have on the fashion industry, seeking to illuminate possible future scenarios and prospects.

The initiative planned for 17 September together with The European House – Ambrosetti is also along the same lines: a moment of encounter and comparison between technology suppliers and the most important brands in the fashion sector.

“We want to interpret the mission of the fair in a broad sense and offer more and more occasions that help the upstream supply chain to get to know the needs of the players that are directly confronted with the demands of the market”.

There will be no shortage of opportunities to recall the past thanks to a celebratory supply chain exhibition that tells the story and the evolutions of the last 50 years of technological innovations, components and materials as well as finished products.

“We want to illustrate the immense value of the complex work that the entire fashion supply chain carries out day after day. We want to talk about a history that has always looked to the future. These 50 years of trade fairs have taught us that to imagine tomorrow there is no other way but to open up to the market. This is why we have thought of an edition of SIMAC TANNING TECH that will allow the 100-plus international delegates attending the fair to meet and get to know each other better so that together we can imagine a future of development and growth. As ASSOMAC we particularly want to meet the many countries where we are well established – I am thinking of India, Vietnam, Pakistan and South America. But we also want to exploit the synergy with other concurrent events in the industry to open new channels with other markets, such as the United States. Probing new opportunities in markets with an important industrial fabric and that might need our technologies”.

Agostino Apolito

101st edition of Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags: satisfaction and further internationalisation

More than 9,000 people attended the fair, marking significant growth compared to both January 2024 and last year’s June edition.

The return of several countries to Riva del Garda following the pandemic was also notable: Uzbekistan, Rwanda, Falkland Island, Eritrea, Suriname, completing an ever-widening global representation (100 countries).

 

“Over the fair days, we have seen a widespread and overall sense of satisfaction,” says Roberto Pellegrini, President of Riva del Garda Fierecongressi. “In particular, I think it is important to highlight the increase in visitors from Latin America and Europe, and especially the significant return of buyers from Germany and Italy, up from June 2023.”

 

Buyers whose voices met those of 1,300 exhibitors, brands and companies representing 40 countries, including the world’s major producers (80% international, 20% Italian) spread across a total exhibition area of 50,000 square metres, 11 fully occupied halls and 4 participating hotels. The Gardabags area dedicated to bags, luggage and accessories was hosted by 47 companies from Bangladesh, China, Germany, India, Italy, Poland, Portugal, Spain, Taiwan and Turkey.

 

The voices spoke not only of the new collections for the upcoming Spring Summer 2025 season, but also echoed throughout the 19 events that animated the 4-day fair. All aimed at offering a complete overview of the footwear, bags and fashion accessories market: from the analysis of consumer trends to the showcasing of several exhibitors’ models, carefully selected for the Highlights Area; from the in-depth analysis of markets in different countries through the Market Focuses to the celebration of the event’s 50th anniversary with the highly successful Summer Celebration Nights .

 

“The enthusiastic participation in all the events we offered at this edition has validated our vision: to innovate the trade fair format and provide an event that enhances business opportunities well beyond the traditional stand space. We recognised the importance of going beyond the ‘mere’ organisation of a trade fair and the value of encouraging strong relationships among industry players. We are already seeing the results of these efforts with the emergence of a genuine community that conducts business at Riva del Garda in a totally unique atmosphere and style,” says the General Manager of Riva del Garda Fierecongressi, Alessandra Albarelli.

 

At the 101st edition too, there was a high focus on innovation dedicated to distribution, thanks to the presence of 10 startups from 7 countries: The renewed interest in Innovation Village Retail further underscores the invaluable role of innovation in the fashion industry, of which the industry itself has proven to be keenly aware.

 

In particular, the presentation by Tymely, which integrates process mining, automation tools, AI and LLM to model customer service processes in the retail sector, caught the attention of the 18 jurors tasked with selecting the winner of the Startup Competition. A solution enabling up to 80% automation of customer service tasks and the handling of even the most complex tickets. While existing “chatbot” solutions mainly address frequently asked questions, Tymely also deals with requests requiring deep system access, with ticket coverage reaching an unprecedented 80%, including partial order exchanges, changed shipping addresses, returns and more.

 

Tymely and the other two finalist startups (Fibble and YouAddict), will accompany the fair organisers to Copenhagen during the next stage of Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags Around the World, where innovation dedicated to distribution will be promoted in collaboration with the Danish Retailers Association.

 

And if a voice often tells more than words, the tone of this edition undoubtedly resounds with optimism: “This year of record growth, in which we also celebrated 50 years of business and 100 editions, motivates us to further pursue internationalisation, ensuring the best possible matching of supply and demand. So, we will continue to visit industry players all around the world with the Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags Around the World project. We will head to China, India and Turkey in the coming months seeking to further expand the diversity of collections available at the next edition from 11 to 14 January 2025,” concludes GianPaola Pedretti, Exhibition Manager.


Cuoio di Toscana alongside Marine Serre with the CDT Prize

Consorzio Cuoio di Toscana – spokesman in the world of one of the leading tanning districts and expression of the excellence of a unique sole leather, obtained by slow vegetable tanning – accompanied under the umbrella of the CDT Prize, the debut of Marine Serre at the Florentine kermesse as Guest Designer, supporting the French designer for her event.

 “Since 2021 we have been supporting young talents through the CDT Prize, with the aim of enhancing creativity and raising awareness of the importance of a quality, Made in Italy product such as our leather. This collaboration testifies to the raw material’s ability to respond to innovation from a sustainable perspective, which is essential for the future of the industry,’ said Antonio Quirici, President of Cuoio di Toscana.

Cuoio di Toscana also acted as spokesperson for the sustainable commitment by supporting the eighth edition of S|Style, an exhibition project of Fondazione Pitti Discovery, with the aim of valorising a generation of international fashion designers committed to sustainable development. Cuoio di Toscana also played a leading role at the Tuscan fair by presenting the Infinity Mirror installation, dedicated to the silver special edition of the iconic moccasin characterised by the Green Sole, the manifesto of the Consortium’s sustainable values. A conceptual and immersive project characterised by an infinite projection of the shoe, through mirrored surfaces: just as a mirror inserted in an environment projects what surrounds it without modifying it, in the same way Cuoio di Toscana – by recovering the raw material from food waste – succeeds in reintroducing it into the market, after vegetable tanning in a vat, offering an environmentally friendly product.

Infinity Mirror

Green George: the beauty of the timeless classic

The Marche-based handcrafted footwear brand founded in 1971 presented its collection for next summer at Pitti Uomo in Florence, made of timeless style, meticulous craftsmanship where every step is fundamental to obtain a shoe of the highest quality and the bearer of a distinctive personality. The protagonists are once again classic and timeless models such as Derby loafers, boat moccasins and Slip-ons.

In particular, we find the boat model in soft dove-coloured suede, with an ultra-light rubber sole to offer reliable grip without weighing down. Ideal workmanship guarantees unparalleled flexibility and comfort, making it a must-have for those seeking discreet elegance and unparalleled comfort.

Then we have the moccasin made of fine dark brown suede leather, characterised by a Blake construction that ensures extraordinary comfort, allowing the sole to be flexible. The green leather sole, a distinctive mark of the Green George style, further underlines the exclusivity of this moccasin.

Diadora Utility wins the Compasso D’oro

The Permanent Observatory of Design of the ADI (Association for Industrial Design) has awarded Diadora Utility the historic and authoritative Compasso D’Oro prize, now in its 28th edition. The award attests to the commitment and dedication that the brand has been placing, for more than 25 years, not only in the search for solutions for the safety and well-being of workers but also in the protection of the environment.
The award concerns in particular the Glove Eco safety shoe, designed by Cristian Ardissono, Diadora Utility Design Leader, which represents the perfect combination of high technical performance, high quality materials and sustainability.
The rigorous selection process for the Compasso D’oro was brilliantly passed, leading to the awarding of the footwear in the ‘Design for Work’ category, with the following motivation: Safety at work encouraged through the reduction of the weight of protective apparatus, comfort in use and a new form-function relationship, which intends to overcome the punitive idea generally conveyed by technical shoes.
The jury recognised the work done by Diadora Utility in creating a product that combines aesthetics and functionality in an excellent way, choosing Glove Eco among the 248 products in the ADI Design Index 2022. The appreciation was for the modern, eye-catching design of the shoe and the attention to detail in its manufacture.
“Winning the ‘Nobel Prize for Design’ is a source of pride for us” says President Enrico Moretti Polegato, “bringing beauty also in the world of safety is possible and is what Diadora Utility works on every day with great dedication. This award confirms our ability to merge technological development and materials research in design products such as Glove Eco and encourages us to pursue our values of sustainability and innovation. Diadora Utility’s commitment is to continue to provide cutting-edge solutions to meet the needs of workers in every sector, always keeping their well-being and safety at the centre of our actions”.
The Glove Eco work shoe will be exhibited at the new ADI Design Museum – Compasso d’Oro in Milan and will be featured in international exhibitions dedicated to Made in Italy design.

Diadora President Enrico Moretti Polegato (right) with Cristian Ardissono, Diadora Utility Design Leader

New european sustainability regulations affect everyone, not just the big names

According to EU rules, businesses must provide truthful information to consumers and must refrain from deceiving them in order to influence their choices. EU rules on unfair commercial practices enable national enforcement authorities to curb a wide range of unfair commercial practices.”

So says part of the article published at the end of February on the European Commission’s website which talks about the commitment made by Zalando, following a dialogue with the European Commission itself, to remove the misleading sustainability labels and icons appearing next to the products offered on its platform. Indications that could mislead consumers about the environmental characteristics of products. Instead, Zalando will provide clear information about the environmental benefits of the products, such as the percentage of recycled materials used.

This is just a case study to introduce the topic of this article, which would like to make the shoe and bag production chain aware of the important changes coming up on the sustainability front: the Green Deal promoted by the European Union is in full implementation and companies must be increasingly aware of this so as to organise themselves adequately to comply with the demands coming from their customers, otherwise they will lose competitiveness and may be forced out of the market.

A new concept for Arsutoria Trend Area at Texworld Paris (1-3 July 2024)

During the next edition of Texworld Paris, in Paris Port de Versailles on 1-3 July 2024, Arsutoria will organize the trend area with materials and components for AW 25/26.

A new trend area concept has been developed by Arsutoria and Messe Frankfurt, the third project together after those in Cape Town and New York.

Together with the materials showcase made by Arsutoria partners, in Paris there will be 5 italian tanneries by ECOTAN: Camaleonte, Hashtag, Antiba, Polaris and White Industry attending the event with their own area to present ECOTAN leathers developed in collaboration with Arsutoria Trends.

EMU Australia presents ‘Nature’s Sublime’ Collection 

The collection celebrates living ‘EMU style’, valuing quality over quantity, reconnecting people with nature. In particular, we find STINGER MICRO, the women’s ankle boots in soft and comfortable water-resistant Australian sheepskin, with an iconic silhouette and available in numerous colours. BLURRED, the perfect boot for every outdoor adventure, with waterproof rubber trim and hiking-inspired details. Not forgetting MAYBERRY, the perfect slippers for relaxing at home or for a casual look. Very soft and comfortable, made of natural sheepskin, they guarantee exceptional comfort, but thanks to their hardwearing sole they can also be used outdoors.

MAYBERRY
BLURRED


Dragon Diffusion: timeless elegance

Present in the Superstylist section at Pitti Uomo, the brand is characterised by its ultra-soft and lightweight bags, which are made with natural dyes and hand-woven.   ‘Rosanna’, ‘Santa Croce’ and ‘Triple Jump’ are just some of the it bags signed Dragon Diffusion, whose unisex collections are now sold in the main Italian luxury outlets such as Luisa Viaroma, Di Vincenzo Boutique and international ones such as Bergdorf Goodman (USA), Le Bon Marche (France), La Samaritaine (France), Harrods (UK), Harvey Nichols (UK) and The End (UK).


BIRKENSTOCK presents Shinjuku

The Shinjuku model draws its inspiration from nature and technology and stems from the conviction that the foot is the perfect technology par excellence. The new model marks an evolution of BIRKENSTOCK’s functional sole and its authentic design philosophy. The Shinjuku’s distinctive, high-impact style combines the exceptional comfort and support of the original BIRKENSTOCK footbed with rugged, outdoor-inspired elements that invite you to go out and discover the world.

The Shinjuku offers a renewal of the classic footbed, featuring a combination of natural materials and an innovative sole. The anatomical cork and latex footbed is in fact covered in microfibre, and the optimised single-component sole is designed to allow easy water drainage and facilitate grip on concrete surfaces. Flexible grooves at the forefoot and heel strike allow for fluid foot movement.

The innovative outsole provides excellent abrasion resistance and durability, while the high-quality nubuck leather heel with foam padding adapts to the foot. The durable and water-repellent upper is made of the highest quality materials, which are designed to last. Other interesting features include a new, rustproof, quick-opening metal buckle and an exclusive strap sewn onto the shoe – sporting the BIRKENSTOCK logo in large letters – complete this outdoor-inspired model.