Arsutoria Studio

DESMA House Fair:  lots of food for thought

We have reached the ninth edition of the DESMA House Fair and I can confirm, because I was there, that it was a very successful edition. So see you in 2026 when the tenth edition of this important event will coincide with the eightieth anniversary of the company DESMA, the world’s leading German manufacturer of technology for the automated shoe production.

 

A success first in numbers: about 800 visitors and 60 co-exhibiting companies, 20 presentations and a tight schedule of technology demonstrations. In short, hard to get bored with such a fast pace and so much content. But what is striking about the DESMA House Fair is the quality of the people in attendance: all “decision makers” from leading international companies. So, in every corner of the large space set up in Achim’s headquarters, the conversations are interesting and the business opportunities concrete not only for DESMA but for all co-exhibitors.  It is no coincidence that the title of this year’s event was “Pioneering. Together.” and there was a strong sense that today, more than ever, the only possible way to implement innovation is to join forces.

 

It kicks off Tuesday morning with the opening and address by the company’s twomanaging directors, Christian Decker and Klaus Freese. Already the first statements are clear indications of the direction taken by the company: “we need to exploit technologies fearlessly, taking advantage of all the possibilities they offer,” and “in the face of challenges such as the shortage of skilled personnel, the need to incorporate sustainability in both products and processes, and the urgency to offer products at the right price, while reducing the use of resources and in ever shorter time frames, automation is the only possible way forward.”    

 

Here are unveiled the projects presented during this edition: the big news that caught everyone’s attention was undoubtedly the new SCF (supercriticalfoaming) machine to produce midsoles using materials from the TPU family. This is an innovation from the automotive sector that has been talked about for a couple of years now but whose first machines, generally from technology suppliers in the Far East, we have only seen arrive on the market in the last year. And SCF was also talked about a lot during the presentations because this technology seems to offer promising alternatives to the use of EVA in performance footwear and beyond. Reduced energy consumption, at least compared to the autoclave processing typical of similar EVA-based technology, the absence of cross-linking chemicals and consequently the possibility of recycling the material as well as the chemical compatibility of the midsole with other thermoplastic parts that allow adhesion between parts without the use of adhesives, are certainly the features that aroused the interest of visitors.

But the food for thought does not end there: prominently featured is the design of a beautiful boot made of 100 percent injected polyurethane whose design was created with the help of generative artificial intelligence (AI) tools. A practical and concrete demonstration of how technology can stimulate creativity and push technical development teams to experiment even beyond the usual established practices. And again, an important focus on upper knitting technology, in which Desma continues to believe strongly as an ideal partner of sole injection, integrated with a new design aid software platform that undoubtedly has promising features of reducing the development time of new designs. Also inspiring was the presentation of the bottom processing automation system that has been an integral part of the German company’s offering for several years now. And really much more.

 

Among the stands of co-exhibitor companies there is an air of satisfaction, the market is complex internationally and everyone is aware of it, but among the aisles there is talk of new projects, practical examples of articles where the most innovative materials are mixed with the cutting edge of traditional molding and 3D printing technologies on uppers and sole inserts are shown to customers. Not surprisingly, the companies that are internationally pushing the bar of technological innovation high are present.

 

In short, a truly exciting experience that is difficult to describe in a few words. The invitation is to visit the event website www.desma.de/en/news/house-fair and also to contact directly not only DESMA but all the companies that were present to learn more about the topics of interest.   

 

And for those who think that such an event is reserved for injection and safety footwear professionals, I can reveal to you that one of the most interesting conversations was with the head of innovation of one of the most important luxury fashion houses.

 

Matteo Pasca
Arsutoria Director


The sneaker couture of Enterprise Japan

Deep aesthetic knowledge and craftsmanship, these are the common denominators of the cultural bond between Italy and Japan from which Enterprise Japan, the brand of sneakers born three years ago at Eli Group, specialized in the production and distribution of footwear, founded in 2016 by Maurizio Croceri with Marco Marchi, comes to life.

With Italian roots, but a strong international vocation, Enterprise Japan interweaves the manufacturing tradition and ’70s-’80s pop culture with a sense of time, material and quality interpreted through the lens of Japanese culture, in which manga graphics – from which the brand’s pictogram is inspired – intersect with the deepest Eastern philosophy from which derive the key concepts of an “enlightened” production system, capable of returning to the market a product that expresses the essence of the contemporary.

Distributed in the best national and international boutiques, from Luisaviaroma to Rinascente, to Level in Dubai and Breuninger in Berlin, Enterprise Japan opens in 2024 its own executive showroom in Milan, in Palazzo Serbelloni, where the clean, minimal lines of Japanese design are combined with the neoclassical elegance of the historic building.

Time runs fast, but quality takes time. For Maurizio Croceri, founder and CEO of Eli-Group and creative mind behind Enterprise Japan, the key to everything is to give the right importance to every single production phase in order to create something unique and leave a mark.

The brand’s spring-summer 2025 collection looks at sneakers that have written the history of streetwear from the 1980s to the present.

The most iconic shapes inspire ENTJPN’s new urban aesthetic: a conscious revival that focuses on the quality-time-material triad to restore sneaker’s true value.

A praise to the craftsmanship and attention to detail proper to made in Italy.

The collection responds to the nostalgia of the golden ages, from the 80s style to the lived-in effect of the EGG ROCKET, to the timeless classic of the RUN models. A vintage allure restores the richness of time that made the great classics iconic, generating an avant-garde that reaps the fruits of a time no longer lost, but enhanced.

On the strength of the manufacturing excellence, aimed at uncompromising quality, of Eli Factory – the production hub and incubator of ideas of Eli-Group’s in-house brands -, ENTJPN brings sneakers back to a niche, exclusive dimension with a sartorial concept, involving more than 40 specialized employees in the different stages of design and creation of each shoe.


Modernity and tradition intertwine in perfect harmony in the Pitillos collection

Pitillos’ is a collection that combines style, innovation and authenticity, ready to win over the public with its balance between past and future. Lightweight and comfortable models, ideal for all-day wear. PITILLOS has been able to reinterpret its iconic lines by adding a modern and contemporary touch: innovative soles, bold color combinations and heels in line with the latest trends.

Among the most irresistible models of the next Spring/Summer stand out the Mary Jane, timeless style icons, flanked by the rock&roll ballerinas, trendy and full of grit. Sneakers, indispensable in every season in every wardrobe, are protagonists with new models inspired by the world of basketball that add a dynamic and original touch to the brand’s offer. Then there is no shortage of sandals, offered with both heels and platforms, for the perfect mix of comfort and style. Materials have been chosen with great care to offer modern and sophisticated proposals: leathers with innovative prints and laminated finishes add a touch of glamour, while suede and natural materials such as raffia create a rustic yet sophisticated balance. White, a symbol of freshness and elegance, dominates the collection’s palette, flanked by vibrant shades such as coral, the true chromatic protagonist of the season, and other hues that evoke summer, with ample space dedicated to gold and silver colors.

FREITAG’s Mono[PA6] backpack is circular economy proof

With the launch of this innovative product, the Zurich-based company is taking an important new step toward its circular economy vision. Thinking and acting in a circular way is an integral part of Freitag’s DNA. The company’s vision is this: to create bags and accessories that are no longer just made from used materials, but are also circular. After three years dedicated to its development, Freitag is launching another circular innovation: the Mono[PA6] backpack is not only functional, durable and water-repellent, but also recyclable in its entirety and thus entirely circular.

In order to simplify the recycling process as much as possible while also saving resources, the entire focus was on the monomaterial. The material chosen is polyamide 6 or PA6, better known as nylon: versatile, strong and multifaceted. But limiting oneself to this one material is easier said than done. A total of 17 PA6 components had to be sourced, all with specific requirements for textures and characteristics: from a water-repellent material for the main body to solid zippers to solutions for shoulder straps, labels, or stitching thread.

Together with a textile industry partner in Taiwan, Freitag developed an innovative fabric that is both water-repellent and single-material. After a laborious development period, this innovative three-layer all-polyamide 6 fabric passed all tests.

Docksteps presents the new Independent

Docksteps unveils the New Independent, the model evolution of the iconic shoe launched in 2014.  With a revamped design and cutting-edge technology, the New Independent is designed to offer the ultimate in comfort and performance. The EVA sole provides extraordinary lightness making it perfect for everyday use, which, together with the strategic cuts on the sole, improve flexibility and cushioning, offering exceptional walking. But that’s not all: the pouch construction allows the shoe to perfectly adapt to the shape of the foot, ensuring a customized fit.

Four models are offered: the Slip On Easy Fit for a quick fit, the versatile Derby, the elegant and casual Moccasin with a soft and flexible upper, and the Mid, which combines stability and adjustable closure thanks to laces. Each model is enhanced by distinctive details, such as the fluorescent elastic pull on the heel, which facilitates the fit and adds a touch of style, and the removable leather insole, which provides breathability and freshness.

Since its debut, the New Independent has represented the brand’s core values: innovation, comfort, and uncompromising style. It will be available with the Spring-Summer 2025 collection, the year Docksteps celebrates its 45th anniversary.


The 50th SIMAC Tanning Tech was a record-breaking event

A record 50th edition for SIMAC Tanning Tech, the leading international event dedicated to machinery and technology for the footwear, leather and tanning industries. From Sept. 17 to 19, more than 9,000 visitors were registered in the 15,000 square meters of exhibition space at Fiera Milano Rho, confirming how well the event has been able to turn the spotlight on the excellence of Made in Italy. Excellence also recognized internationally, as demonstrated by the 44% foreign attendance and 26% of exhibitors (out of 316) from outside Italy, from more than 20 countries.

Despite the show’s record numbers, the sector suffered an overall export contraction (-11.55%) in the first half of 2024. The data show in the tannery machinery sector a +6.77%, only apparently positive as it is to be attributed to foreign orders placed in 2023. Significantly, more than 75% of sales in the six-month period were concentrated in only 10 countries, which shows that, with a few exceptions, the tannery machinery sector is in trouble, just like the other sectors of the supply chain. Less in crisis is the spare parts sector, where there was a smaller decline in exports (- 5.52%) to all destinations.

“Despite the general contraction of exports in the first six months of the year, we remain confident about the future of our sector”, comments Assomac President Maria Vittoria Brustia. “The leather processing machinery sector has recorded some encouraging signs that show that the quality of our technologies is still recognized and appreciated in international markets. We look to 2025 with optimism, focusing on the ability of our companies to innovate and adapt to global challenges. However, it is essential that the Italian government actively support us in promoting and protecting Made in Italy, especially in an increasingly competitive international context. There is a need for additional support for the internationalization of our companies to ensure that our sector can continue to represent excellence in the world.”

Maria Vittoria Brustia, Presidente Assomac

This edition of SIMAC Tanning Tech was also an opportunity to recall the half-century history of the event, which has evolved from a national trade show to a global platform for the footwear and leather processing industry. The first edition was held in 1973 in Milan, marking a significant change: for the first time the machines and technologies of the industry became the absolute protagonists.

When is the next 51st edition of Simac Tanning Tech? September 23-25, 2025.


European Commission proposes postponing EUDR for one year

Finally some good news. The European Commission has proposed a one-year postponement of the Anti-Deforestation Regulation (EUDR). The request, reads the official statement, is not intended to call into question the objectives of the EUDR, but to allow global operators to adhere to the regulation without operational problems. The Commission took note of the fact that the application of the regulation was practically unfeasible, mainly due to delays in the implementation of the European IT system needed to upload the due diligence required of companies, causing very serious problems for international trade in all sectors involved.
The last word now rests with the European Parliament and the European Council, which will presumably accept the proposed postponement, moving the regulation’s entry into force to 30 December 2025 for large companies and 30 June 2026 for SMEs.
The difficulties of applying the EUDR in the tanning sector were discussed on 18 September at the last Lineapelle during a crowded conference. On that occasion, a study commissioned by UNIC and COTANCE to the Scuola Superiore Sant’Anna of the University of Pisa was presented, which proves with scientific evidence that leather has nothing to do with deforestation. Leather comes from cattle raised mainly for meat and milk and its production does not encourage cattle breeding.
Now the sector has twelve more months to make its case.

Galli S.p.A. invites the whole company to SIMAC 2024

Galli S.p.A., during the 50th edition of Simac Tanning Tech held in September 2024, wanted to meet not only customers but also its employees.

Carlo Galli, CEO of Galli S.p.A., explains why: “We want our team to grow cohesive and aware of the importance of these events, especially the many young people who have joined the company.”

Michelle Hunziker at MICAM as Marco Tozzi ambassador

She told about her arrival in Italy and how everyone made fun of her for her not particularly on-trend style. Always with her smile and spontaneity that make her a showbusiness star, but also a simple person who never backs down if there is a picture to be taken with fans.

 

So Michelle Hunziker attended MICAM as an ambassador of the Marco Tozzi brand, whose comfort and appeal of the collections she particularly praised. The German brand’s booth was filled with curious onlookers who wanted to meet one of the stars of “Striscia la Notizia,” just to mention one of its successful programs.

 

MARCO TOZZI Shoes GmbH & Co. KG is a company of the Wortmann Group, one of the largest footwear production and distribution companies and a market leader in Europe. The MARCO TOZZI brand is synonymous with fashionable women’s shoes with special attention to detail and excellent value for money.

 

The new campaign of the German brand consists of 12 shots and backstage videos, focuses on 5 models of footwear personally chosen by Michelle Hunziker for a total of 4 outfits, ranging from casual chic, matched with brown boots with a classic cut, to a more gritty style, which well interprets the amphibians proposed by the brand, from an office look, matched with loafers, to a more glam outfit enhanced by blue suede ankle boots.


 

The communication campaign, created exclusively for Italy and Switzerland, will support the point of sale and declined for communication via social (on Instagram the TV host and entertainer has more than 5.8 million followers).

 

“We are really pleased to have embarked on this collaboration with Michelle Hunziker, who shares and interprets in the best way the values of our brand: we are sure that Marco Tozzi’s notoriety is destined to grow in the near future,” said Fabio Lombardi, MARCO TOZZI Italy Sales Manager.

New factory innovation school in Montebelluna

Gianni Frasson

“Training is a fundamental element in supporting the growth of the District’s companies, even the smallest, which are the real backbone of the area’s economy. Investing in the growth of our talents, offering them the opportunity to express themselves, bringing together experience, know-how and innovation, is therefore not only an interest of all of us sportsystem entrepreneurs, but also a moral duty and a sign of gratitude to a territory that has allowed so many brands and companies to establish themselves worldwide. I therefore sincerely thank the more than 50 member companies of the Foundation, whose contributions support our activities, and I hope that more and more companies will join our work”, thus commented Gianni Frasson, President of the Sportsystem Foundation, during the inauguration of the new factory innovation school in Montebelluna.

 

After the ribbon-cutting ceremony, the customary thanks were given: to the companies participating in the Foundation for their constant support, to Banca delle Terre Venete for their enthusiasm in contributing to the training activities for several years now, to Intesa Sanpaolo for providing the large spaces in a central and strategic location, as well as to the municipal administration for their cooperation and to the companies supplying the equipment RiVeMac and PrismaTech.

 

Molding, Edging and CAD are the 3 courses that started on September 14, dedicated to new graduates who wish to acquire the skills most in demand by district’s companies, or people already employed who aspire to grow professionally.

The Foundation is already working on new courses, starting in January, on the topics of design and sustainability.

 

For info: [email protected]