Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Studio

MICAM 100th edition: shaping the future of footwear for over 50 years

Giovanna Ceolini

The 100th edition of MICAM will celebrate 50 years of history. Half a century of know-how, innovation, Made in Italy and international vision have made the footwear exhibition a global event. The event, which will take place from 7 to 9 September at fieramilano Rho, has become a real point of reference, not only for small and medium-sized Italian companies, but also for international brands.

MICAM, a global event for fashionable, high-quality, innovative and sustainable footwear, represents the history of Italian excellence based on a unique combination of craftsmanship and genuine passion, driven by constant innovation and a continuous search for styles and trends.

 

There have been numerous milestones along the way. Although its origins date back to 1931 in Vigevano, the cradle of Italian footwear, it was in 1974 that the event took a strategic turn, together with A.N.C.I. – the National Association of Italian Footwear Manufacturers. The association took over its management, further consolidating it in the following years. With the new millennium, Milan became the permanent venue, opening up a path increasingly focused on internationalisation. In 2017, the project was further enriched with spaces dedicated to events, training, entertainment, seminars and special areas. Digitalisation was embraced and the concept of a marketplace was introduced to provide a memorable visitor experience. A further step forward was taken in 2018 with the rebranding of MICAM Milano.

 

Thanks to an exhibition of 1,000 brands from all over the world, MICAM attracts buyers from over 150 countries. MICAM 100, chaired by Giovanna Ceolini, will be inaugurated in the presence of Minister Urso with the cancellation of the ordinary postage stamp belonging to the thematic series ‘Le Eccellenze del sistema produttivo e del Made in Italy’ (The Excellence of the Production System and Made in Italy), in the presence of the press and institutions.

 

The exhibition will shine the spotlight on the new products for spring-summer 2026 from the best international companies and brands that symbolise Italian manufacturing districts, which make Made in Italy great throughout the world. It will feature a packed schedule of events, seminars and a special exhibition: “100 steps into the future” will offer visitors the opportunity to immerse themselves in the history of MICAM and footwear fashion over the last 50 years.

 

The Trends & Materials area will also return, linked to the Buyer Guide, and the Future of Retail space, dedicated to innovative ideas that will change the point of sale, with companies offering advanced solutions for the footwear sector. There will also be fashion shows, emerging designers and presentations on fashion trends.

 

MICAM X is evolving and giving rise to MICAM Next: a new programme curated by Wired, featuring numerous seminars dedicated to the theme of innovation. These will be: “E-commerce, new tech; omnichannel strategies for footwear” – “Shoe design, between genius and customisation” – ‘At the feet of AI’ – ‘Sports shoes, tech shoes’.

 

Finally, 2025 is also a special year for Assocalzaturifici. The association, which represents 500 companies in the sector at national level, is celebrating its 80th anniversary. Eight decades dedicated to promoting Italian footwear excellence around the world.

DESMA and ABB: 40 years of automation serving the footwear industry

Some partnerships don’t age: they evolve. The partnership between DESMA and ABB, which began in the 1980s, is one such partnership. Starting with the introduction of the first ABB robots adapted for footwear production, it has led to concrete results over time, thanks in part to important collaborations such as the one with adidas.

Today, after 40 years, the fruits of this alliance are clear: efficient automation, consistent quality, reduced use of materials and protection of operator health. Robots play a key role in key stages of production – from deburring to spraying release agents and applying adhesives – performing every task with surgical precision.

The goal? To offer footwear manufacturers around the world reliable and cost-effective solutions that strengthen industrial competitiveness.

Italian leather goods, slow start to the year: geopolitical tensions, tariffs and weak demand

Claudia Sequi, Assopellettieri President

The leather sector is running on a stationary treadmill: it is moving, but not advancing.

The start of 2025 confirmed what was feared: Italian leather goods are struggling to recover. The figures speak for themselves. In the first three months of the year, exports fell by 8.5% compared to the same period in 2024, with a sharp drop of 17.5% to Far East markets. Domestic demand? Down 4.4%. Turnover? Down 7.7%. And industrial production? Down as much as 16.4%.

In other words, the sector is not at a standstill, but is wearing itself out by keeping moving without making any progress.

This is what emerges from the economic report prepared by the Confindustria Accessori Moda Research Centre, which takes into account the performance of the Italian leather goods industry in the first quarter of 2025.

DOWNLOAD THE FULL REPORT BY CLICKING HERE

EXPORTS LOSING MOMENTUM

Always the driving force behind the entire supply chain, Italian leather goods exports sold €2.44 billion worth of goods abroad in the first quarter, down €228 million on the previous year. The average price fell by 5.3% to €145.58/kg, continuing a deflationary trend that began in 2023 after the peaks of 2021-22.

The decline mainly affected non-EU markets (-12.4% in value), which account for 64.3% of total exports in value, while the EU held steady (-0.6%). Among the non-European markets in greatest difficulty are China (-31.5%), South Korea (-12.8%), Hong Kong (-15.4%) and Canada (-12.4%).

Switzerland, formerly a hub for luxury brands, saw a 47.7% collapse and slipped to 11th place among destination markets.

In contrast, the United Arab Emirates (+19.5%), Turkey (+27.6%) and Qatar (+18.8%) bucked the trend, confirming steady growth over the last five years.

 

THE US NODE: WHERE IS THE HISTORIC MARKET HEADING?

The United States, which in 2024 absorbed Italian leather goods worth over €1.2 billion, seems to be holding up: +0.7% in value in the first quarter. But the shadows are lengthening. The new tariffs imposed by the Trump presidency are fuelling uncertainty. 69% of Italian exporters expect significant impacts, and 47% are already exploring alternative markets.

Europe, Asia and the Middle East are the most popular destinations, while Mercosur remains – at least for now – off the radar.

 

DOMESTIC DEMAND: WEAK AND UNCERTAIN

The Italian market offers little consolation. Retail sales of leather goods and footwear fell by 4.4% in the first quarter compared to 2024, and remain 5.8% below pre-Covid levels in 2019.

The only positive note comes from tourism: foreign visitors spent 6.4% more, according to the Bank of Italy. But this is not enough to offset stagnant domestic demand.

 

PRODUCTION AND EMPLOYMENT IN DIFFICULTY

The ISTAT index of industrial production for the leather supply chain recorded a -16.4% decline in the first four months of the year. This is an alarming figure, only partially mitigated by a slowdown in the decline in April (-4.6%).

Layoffs are also back in the spotlight: +66.1% compared to the first quarter of 2024, with almost 13 million hours authorised. Tuscany leads the ranking, with over 5 million hours (+200%), followed by Campania and Marche.

The number of active companies fell by 1% (-46 units), while the number of employees fell to 48,184 (-530 compared to December). Fifty-two per cent of companies saw their turnover decline, and only 7% recorded increases of more than 10%. The outlook for the second quarter? Still negative: a further 6% drop in turnover is expected.

 

HANDBAGS REMAIN QUEEN, BUT…

Handbags remain the best-selling product (€1.68 billion, equal to 69.1% of exports), but are losing ground (-10.6%).

Suitcases (-12.8%) and small leather goods (-4.5%) are also down. Belts are bucking the trend: +5.9% in value and +25.3% in volume, although still far from pre-2019 levels.

In terms of materials, leather products are holding up better (-4.6%) than substitutes (-16.8%), but the decline is widespread.

 

THREATS PERCEIVED BY THE SECTOR

A survey of Assopellettieri members confirms widespread concerns. The main threats identified are:

· weak demand (77%);

· the Russia-Ukraine conflict (62%);

· new US tariffs (42%);

· tensions in the Middle East (27%);

· the slowdown in international luxury brands (25%).

Added to this are rising raw material costs (23%), the German recession (23%) and the shortage of skilled labour (20%).

 

CONCLUSIONS: THE SECTOR IS IN THE TRENCHES

The Italian leather goods industry is going through a period of resistance rather than recovery. The fundamentals remain solid – product quality, international reputation, ability to defend markets – but the context is among the most difficult of the last ten years.

As the report notes, the trade balance remains positive (+1.52 billion euros in the quarter), but down 15%. This is an important sign, but it is not enough.

Vision is needed. Strategy is needed. Above all, demand needs to start breathing again.

A new director for Assopellettieri: Federica Bevilacqua

The appointment follows the departure of Danny D’Alessandro, who left the position to pursue new professional opportunities after a long career at the helm of the association.

 

The dual appointment

In her new role, Bevilacqua will lead the growth and consolidation strategies of Assopellettieri and Aimpes Servizi. Her goal is to strengthen the role of both organisations as a point of reference for companies in the sector, working in synergy with institutions, associations and stakeholders at both national and international level.

 

Federica Bevilacqua’s professional career

Federica Bevilacqua brings with her over 16 years of experience in international contexts and in the fashion industry, with specific expertise in the organisation of trade fairs. Prior to her appointment, she served as deputy general manager of Assopellettieri and head of marketing, communications and special projects. She contributed to the development of MIPEL and the creation of the event ‘Gli Stati Generali della Pelletteria Italiana’ (The States General of Italian Leather Goods), coordinating numerous projects to promote Italian leather goods around the world.

New guide for ABI Tape Belgium

Mauro Castignani

Change at the top at ABI Tape Belgium: Mauro Castignani has been appointed new General Manager, taking over from Mathias Goossens, who is leaving the company to pursue new professional challenges.

Castignani brings with him almost thirty years of experience within the American Biltrite group. After an initial experience in Belgium, he founded ABItalia in Civitanova, in the Marche region, with his wife Lara in 1998, consolidating the group’s presence in the footwear reinforcement and leather goods sector.

In his new role, Castignani will lead sales development, customer relations, quality, safety, financial performance and team growth at the Ronse headquarters in Belgium for the entire EMEA region.

He will report directly to Michel J. Merkx, Corporate Vice President and General Manager of ABI/Ideal Tape. This is a new challenge for a manager who has in-depth knowledge of the markets, products and people in the sector.

Soldini: 80 years of steady progress. Urso: “An example and a model of Italian manufacturing.”

Rossano Soldini

The story of Soldini is not just that of a company: it is the story of a family, a region and an Italy that has been moving forward with style and determination for eighty years. Founded in 1945 in the heart of Casentino by Gustavo Soldini, the small artisan workshop has transformed, generation after generation, into a solid, respected manufacturer capable of bringing the quality of its footwear to the whole world.

On 7 July 2025, Capolona – the Tuscan village where it all began – was transformed into a large open-air theatre to host the celebration of this milestone. Over 500 guests attended, including employees (some hired in 1945!), suppliers, collaborators, representatives of institutions and big names from the Italian industrial system. A true ‘extended family’, as brothers Rossano and Marco Soldini, who now run the company together with their children, described it.

The event was also an opportunity to honour seventy long-serving workers, recall the milestones in the company’s history – including the fire that destroyed the Anghiari factory in 1994 – and proudly accept the honorary citizenship conferred on the two entrepreneurial brothers by the Municipality of Capolona.

In the spotlight Adolfo Urso, Minister for Enterprise and Made in Italy

Among the guests, the Minister for Enterprise and Made in Italy, Adolfo Urso, was keen to attend to emphasise the symbolic and strategic value of companies such as Soldini. These were not just words for the occasion, but a concrete vision of Italy’s industrial future:

“The national fashion plan, which meets the needs of the global market, will seek to promote the aggregation and consolidation of the supply chain, especially in this delicate phase of generational transition, using innovative tools that will enable companies to aggregate both vertically (I am referring above all to large brands that have an interest in strengthening and consolidating their suppliers) and transversally (some companies in the supply chain could team up to strengthen their market presence). All this with the help and support of public resources and our agencies, with the aim of overcoming the challenges of globalisation, as our entrepreneurs and workers have already done in the past.”

“What can Soldini represent in this market, given that we are celebrating its 80th anniversary?” the Minister was asked. The answer is clear: “It is an example and a model.”

These words echo those of the many entrepreneurs present – from Montezemolo to Ferragamo, from Auricchio to Zegna – who recognised the Soldini family as a rare example of serious, passionate entrepreneurship, capable of innovating and resisting without bowing to marketing rhetoric.

“I see an Italian company that fortunately has nothing to do with politics, but lives off the market with serious entrepreneurs who innovate, take risks, export and have a wonderful relationship with their employees,” said Luca Cordero di Montezemolo.

Many colleagues from the footwear industry also left their factories to take part in the celebrations, from Baldinini to Nero Giardini to Primigi. Institutions from the sector were also present, including Valentino Fenni, Vice President of Assocalzaturifici and President of the Footwear Section of Confindustria Fermo.

Team spirit and ties to the local area remain the pillars on which Soldini has built its success. “Our journey has been marked by successes and difficulties, but we have never lost our family spirit and passion for our work,” said Rossano Soldini. “The future will not be easy, but we will do our utmost to face it.”

The mayor of Capolona, Mario Francesconi, summed up the collective sentiment in one sentence: “Soldini is not just a company, it is part of our collective identity.”

That is why today, more than ever, every Soldini shoe is not just a quality handcrafted product, but a living piece of Italian history. A history that has been able to adapt, innovate and remain true to itself. A history that, after 80 years, continues to walk confidently towards the future.

Valentino Fenni presents an award from Confindustria Fermo to Rossano Soldini


Fratelli Alberti: focus on innovation and safety

A benchmark among manufacturers of machines for the leather industry, Fratelli Alberti Srl has been carrying on a tradition of Italian excellence for over 75 years, and today represents a reference point for the production of skiving, splitting and combining machines for leather processing.

In recent years, the Varese-based company has focused in particular – alongside quality and service – on the innovation and safety factor, with the creation of products that have evolved in terms of Industry 4.0.

To this end, significant changes have been made to machinery that aim to guarantee greater safety for the end user, alongside a reduction in waste and a high level of quality.

Within the three macro-categories of leather processing machines (skiving, splitting and combining machines) that constitute the company’s core business, several new features have been introduced, starting with the carterized fleshing machine tables, designed to prevent accidental operations by the operator and the protection of moving parts. A filter upstream of the suction motor has also been introduced on this table to prevent the dispersion of fine dust into the air, with a view to environmental protection.

In terms of technological evolution, the graphic interface of the AP combining machines, AV2NET skiving machines and FAV430/520NET splitting machines has been made even more user-friendly. In the wake of the Industry 4.0 plan, computerised machines make work more precise, replicable and above all more productive, without altering its high quality.

FAV520NET
AV2NET
AV2MSAE


Italian tanners: let’s create a common home in Brussels with other natural materials

A report focused on the need to preside over the work of the Brussels legislators that of UNIC President Fabrizio Nuti, yesterday in Milan at the Annual Meeting of the Association of Italian Tanneries. “For the past four years,” said Nuti, “my energies have been practically absorbed by opposing measure No. 1115/2023, that is, the Anti-deforestation Regulation, in the knowledge that, as it is written, it will have devastating effects on our sector. An effort that has taken the form of letters, meetings, various solicitations to MEPs, technicians, lobbyists, but also in the organization of seminars and webinars culminating on June 3 at the European Parliament where the Scuola Superiore Sant’Anna study was presented showing that leather is not a driver of deforestation. An enormous amount of work that so far has apparently produced little result except for a letter to EU President Ursula Van der Leyen from Council Vice-President Antonio Tajani who, after meeting with the Unic president, took action “diligently and seems to have fully understood the gravity of the situation.”

A common home in Brussels

Noting the difficulty of changing laws that have already been passed, such as precisely the Anti-Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), the tanners recently moved the offices of Cotance (which represents European tanning) to a large new headquarters in Brussels “which I would like to become a reference point for all associations in the leather supply chain and beyond.” Located near the European Parliament, “it could become the home of all the natural materials such as wool, silk, cashmere, etc. that share with us the daily problems and attacks.” Unity is strength,” Nuti explained, ”and having a common voice is worth the investment. There is a need for lobbying, which is transparent but necessary, also to prevent the passage of dangerous laws just as happened with the EUDR. The idea of collaborating with other supply chains stems from the observation that all natural materials have, just like leather, a very high environmental impact index compared to materials of petrochemical origin such as PVC, nylon and polyester. A paradoxical situation due to erroneous assumptions (in the case of leather, the inclusion of animal husbandry that should be discorporated since leather is a by-product) that needs to be changed by pursuing LCA studies carried out with accurate and up-to-date scientific data, as specialist Federico Brugnoli, CEO of SPIN360, also had the opportunity to explain in the following speech, thanks to whose work it was possible to lower the score of leather by 70% in the infamous Higg index related to the sustainability of materials.

New projects

President Nuti then reviewed the many activities carried out by the association over the past year. Among the most important is the collaboration with the Ministry of Made in Italy to draft a bill aimed at creating a univocal certification system within the fashion supply chain, by third-party certifiers, to defend against the proliferation of customer audits on the most disparate requirements. Also noteworthy is a new project dedicated to sustainability called “Leather Leaders” on which UNIC is working together with SPIN360 and other partners and which is based on three basic pillars: supply chain collaboration, science and data, and alliances with related sectors (wool, silk, etc.). The aim is to create a core group of brands and supplier companies to draft a protocol to achieve green goals and build a shared platform of innovation and knowledge that can drive the whole sector.

The 2024 results

As for the economic results, 2024,“ the UNIC president recalled,”was another difficult year, in which negative signs prevailed (production -4.5 percent, exports -3.6 percent), the result of persistent suffering in the fashion, furniture and automotive supply chains. The consequence is that “industrial and commercial reorganization phenomena are multiplying. Companies are aggregating, supply chains are integrating, procurement and financial investments are diversifying. And while we probably won’t all agree on this, this, in my opinion, is a sign of health for the industry, an indicator of the dynamism that continues to pervade our world. A luxury brand won’t invest in the capital stock of a tannery if it doesn’t believe in the leather material. Just as a financial fund would not do so if it believes that the tanning business is unattractive in profit marginality.”

 Guests

After the president’s report, the microphone was passed to Dario Fabbri, geopolitical analyst and editor of Domino magazine, who gave a talk focusing on the attacks on globalization and explaining the meaning of the Trumpian policy on tariffs. According to the expert, the US president does not aim to tear down globalization, but to redefine its balance at the expense of the EU and China.

There were numerous speeches by UNIC Assembly guests who enhanced the event by speaking about their fields of expertise. The following took turns on stage: Giovanna Ceolini (president Confindustria Accessori Moda), Agostino Apolito (general manager Assomac), Maurizio Maggioni (national secretary UNPAC), Michele Matteoli (president Tanners Consortium Ponte a Egola), Riccardo Bandini (president Tanners Association of Santa Croce sull’Arno), Roberto Giannoni (mayor of Santa Croce sull’Arno), Mirko Balsemin (president of the tanning section of Confindustria Vicenza) and Sonia Tosoni (secretary of FILCTEM CGIL).

The UNIC Assembly was held in Milan on July 1.
Geopolitical analyst Dario Fabbri spoke at the UNIC Assembly.

Stahl inaugurates Customer Center of Excellence in León, Mexico

Stahl, the world leader in speciality coatings for flexible materials, has just celebrated the relocation and opening of its enhanced Center of Excellence for Leather Finishing and Performance Coatings in León, Mexico. The new facility houses state-of-the-art offices, application laboratories and testing capabilities, reflecting Stahl’s commitment to delivering advanced, lower-impact products closer to customers across Latin America.

This strategic investment follows a series of recent expansions, including the doubling of capacity in China, a new production facility in Ranipet, India, a Center of Excellence in Apex, USA, a new laboratory in Japan and a new PUD facility in Singapore. With a significantly larger footprint than the previous León facility, the upgraded center offers a more complete customer experience, from multi-substrate design support and application development to testing and training.

“Mexico is an important market for Stahl, with a strong base of automotive, fashion and footwear customers,” said Maarten Heijbroek, CEO of Stahl. “By investing in this enhanced facility, we are staying close to where our customers are and giving them access to the very best technologies, people and expertise. This is a clear example of how we are growing with purpose, to better serve our partners today and tomorrow.”

The León site is part of Stahl’s global network of more than 30 application labs, 10 Center of Excellence and 15 manufacturing facilities. It supports the development of high-performance coatings and finishes for industries including footwear, apparel, automotive and home interiors.

Saul Rios, Managing Director of Stahl LATAM, added: “This new regional capability strenghtens our customer intimate business model. Here we can directly collaborate with our customers and brands, speed up our customer’s innovations and deliver according to regional needs. Our focus remains on co-creating products that touch lives, while always contributing to a better world.”

Guests at the inauguration joined a guided tour of the new facility’s main stations, including showrooms for Shoe & Leather Goods, Automotive interior and Performance Coatings, the Leather Finishing laboratory, a dedicated testing lab and the on-site Stahl Campus® classroom. The event concluded with a networking reception hosted in the new labs.

 

The laboratories at Stahl’s new headquarters in Leon

Giancarlo Lovato elected IULTCS vice president

The International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS) has officially elected the new vice president for the 2026/2027 biennium destined to become president in the following 2028/2029 biennium. The nomination concerns Dr. Giancarlo Lovato, a candidate presented by the Italian Association of Leather Chemists (AICC). This is an important achievement especially considering that the last Italian president of IULTCS was Dr. Cuccodoro in 1983. After a full 45 years, Italy (AICC) will finally express a president in 2028.

Giancarlo Lovato currently works as Director of Research at Corichem, a leading Italian leather chemicals company; in this role he is responsible for the development of new leather chemicals and related technologies. Dr. Lovato served as Secretary of AICC from 2019 to 2022 and as Chairman of the Organizing Committee of the III IULTCS EuroCongress Vicenza 2022. In IULTCS, he is currently in charge of the ISO Committee.

IULTCS also announced the winner of this year’s prestigious Merit Award. Members of the organization unanimously chose Dr. Patricia Casey from Argentina for her dedication and commitment to the advancement of the field. Casey previously served as president of IULTCS and held an apex position with the Argentine AAQTIC Association for many years. The award will be presented to Dr. Casey at a gala dinner as part of the IULTCS Congress in Lyon on September 10.