Arsutoria Magazine

ACM: between accessories and digital printing, the novelties for SS25

The historic company from Grumello in Monte, which for over forty years has been designing, planning and producing creations that interpret the style of the world’s leading fashion houses, presented its new collections at the most important trade fairs, with a varied and unique choice of buttons, leather goods and accessories.

The task of surprising is entrusted, as per tradition, to the Vision collection, which for S/S-25 declines and models three different moods. TAKE CARE delves into nature, exploring its aesthetic and material possibilities. EMBRACE starts from individuality to include the community, amidst woven effects, juxtaposed colours, python textures and nautical ornaments. Geometry discovers new forms with IMAGINE: the design explores polygonal solutions and mesh effects, perforations and engravings, with gloss effects and coloured chromes.

Milan also saw the debut of the digital printing division of Next, the production part of the ACM Group. Starting from the selection of certified low environmental impact yarns and weavings (GOTS, GRS, FSC), Next has developed a dedicated and tailor-made printing system to be able to reproduce extremely realistic and repeatable effects on garments, with a faithful visual impact, drastically reducing the consumption of energy, water and chemicals, from fabric birth to garment manufacture.


Timeless luxury of Oerlikon Riri’s SS25 collection

The grammar of luxury is the language that Riri has always declined and infused into its accessories, details of style that enrich the creations of leading high-end fashion brands. This know-how is reflected in the zippers and buttons created by the Oerlikon Riri brand for the Spring-Summer 25 collection, which features two extremely elegant moods, made even more precious by the technological and craftsmanship contributions of Oerlikon Fineparts. The two brands cooperate as complementary parts of the Oerlikon Luxury business unit to offer the highfashion market a range of accessories that explores every peak of luxury, from classic to tailor-made.

ENHANCED CLASSIC: Luxury tries to dress in simplicity but cannot hide from the discerning eye: classic gold, black, beige and dark brown colors, geometric and sinuous shapes that eschew static betray its nature, pure elegance.

FACED MARBLE: Marble and multifaceting are the main characters in the second trend of strong geometric inspiration: triangles, rhombuses and trapezoids create elegant and modern surfaces in which simple colors predominate on the theme of wood and marble.

Lenzing with Recyc Leather and GANNI to innovate in footwear materials

Lenzing Group, the world’s leading producer of special wood-based fibres, has teamed up with leather expert Recyc Leather to introduce Pélinova®, an innovative material combining TENCEL™ Lyocell and recycled leather fibres in high-end fashion applications. Joining forces with the avant-garde Danish contemporary brand GANNI, this ‘innovation trio’ aims to introduce a new generation material to the market as an alternative to real leather, starting with GANNI’s slouchy boots to be launched early this year. The combined efforts of Lenzing and Recyc Leather have resulted in a flexible, durable, environmentally friendly material that uses 70% less water than traditional methods and reduces CO2 emissions.

“Our partnership with Lenzing and GANNI demonstrates the potential of Pélinova® as a truly sustainable alternative to traditional leather, which inspires us to continue expanding the scope of Pélinova® to redefine the future of the leather industry,” said Florian Heubrandner, Executive Vice President Global Textiles Business, Lenzing AG.

Pélinova®


KUOYO accelerates investments

At a time when the Florentine leather goods district is experiencing a notable slowdown in production activity, caused by the economic crisis that has also hit the luxury fashion houses, KUOYO, Fabio Fatarella’s Scandicci-based company, producer of bags and wallets for the big fashion brands, accelerates its investments and acquires another leather goods company, joining Fior di Pelle, acquired last July. This time, it is Tifariti, a company owned by the Tirinnanzi family, founded in 2010 and specialised in the production of bags, including those made from precious leathers, and small luggage. Thanks to its long experience with the most important brands in the fashion industry, including Gucci, Pelletterie Tifariti has developed a constant growth, up to the expansion in 2014 and the relocation to the current 400 square metre plant in Rufina.

KUOYO therefore continues its strategy of progressively integrating all production phases to establish itself in a highly competitive market, offering value-added services and guaranteeing a qualitative and sustainable supply chain. In fact, according to Fatarella, “if, on the one hand, to obtain a top quality product and protect the image of the most prestigious customers there is no other way than to carefully control it, on the other hand, it is necessary to secure part of the production capacity, in order to face the inevitable shortage of specialised resources expected in the coming years”. The plan for KUOYO LAB is to reach 100 employees by 2025 through the cooperation already initiated with some top brands in the industry.

160° ILM: “TIME IS NOW!”

For more than 70 years, ILM has been the world’s leading trade fair for leather goods, bags, luggage and accessories. The next important anniversary event of the 160th edition is scheduled for 31 August to 2 September 2024 at Messe Offenbach, with some 250 brands from over 20 countries expected to attend. Under the motto “TIME IS NOW!”, ILM is calling on the entire industry to proactively embrace the current zeitgeist and capitalise on the opportunities presented by the trade fair as an indispensable time for discussion, knowledge, innovation and business.

“Structural change in the retail sector is a fact, which means that brand strategies and product ranges have to be fundamentally rethought and reorganised,” said Arnd Hinrich Kappe, Managing Director of Messe Offenbach. It is the right time to reinterpret one’s brand value and to consider retail not only as a sales area, but also as a place of community and experience’.

Protagonists will be the spring/summer 2025 collections of leather goods, bags, luggage and accessories. ILM will also be enhanced by seminars held by experts, insights into the season’s fashion trends, and practice-oriented presentations.

The date to mark in your calendar is therefore 31 August to 2 September 2024 for the great leather goods fair in Offenbach.


Sneaknit: ‘we turn ideas into successful projects’

Sneaknit, a new company concept that uses the best knitting technologies to produce uppers and panels for shoes and bags in a sustainable manner, has been able to distinguish itself in successfully managing complex jobs and meeting the multiple needs of its customers. And this is thanks to the combination of a number of elements, including experience, the use of state-of-the-art machinery and the specific skills of its highly qualified team.

The company’s Research and Development laboratory in Civitanova Marche (MC) is constantly engaged in innovation and the development of materials and technologies that redefine the standards of performance and sustainability.

Behind every Sneaknit product is, in fact, a design process that is carefully studied and perfected in detail. By monitoring the work processes on a daily basis, the company is able to guarantee reliable, high-quality production. Every Sneaknit upper reflects an impeccable production process and attention to detail, so as to meet even the highest standards.


Inspiration from nature for next summer by Gruppo Mastrotto

Gruppo Mastrotto’s collection for next summer is inspired by the beauty and variety of nature, with nuances that evoke feelings of calm, adventure and exploration. The two lines that characterise it, Core and Blending, include a diverse range of leathers that can satisfy the needs of both enthusiasts with more classic tastes and lovers of innovation.

Lineapelle was also the occasion to launch the ABSOLUTE article in Gruppo Mastrotto Express, the innovative service of premium leather in prompt delivery that includes more than 1,500 colours ready to be shipped within 48 hours from the order. ABSOLUTE – The Suede Revolution is an exclusive product with a luxury positioning, aimed at high-end footwear and leather goods, which integrates into the production process the recovery of shavings, a waste that originates during the processing of leather. A perfect example of circular economy that is realised in a leather with exclusive characteristics: saturated and intense colours, a soft hand and a silky touch.

Finally, the exhibition also featured the installation realised in collaboration with Kreoo, a premium brand of marble furniture and design accessories, for the exclusive business culture exhibition Leather Duets organised within Lineapelle Interiors.


Cuoio di Toscana’s new Limited Edition insoles presented at Pitti Uomo

Cuoio di Toscana, the leading international consortium in the production of sole leather obtained by slow vegetable tanning, presented, with an exclusive event at Pitti Uomo, the two new insoles designed to protect the health of consumers and the environment. Thanks to the processing of the vegetable tanning in the tank and the use of tannins, in fact, the shoe with vegetable leather insole and lining maintains a fresh and dry environment that inhibits the development of bacteria responsible for bad odour. The new insoles are also biodegradable, low environmental impact, metal free, breathable and 100% natural, in keeping with the tradition of the tanning consortium.

“The principles of sustainability and traceability constitute the heritage of the Cuoio di Toscana brand, which today adds a further piece to the consortium’s green values and does so with the talent of two young Italian designers, Federico Cina and Marco Rambaldi, and in collaboration with the Italian Podiatrists’ Association,” said Antonio Quirici, president of the consortium.

Reinforcing the consortium’s lifestyle concept was a fashion show featuring the iconic green sole Cuoio di Toscana total looks by Don The Fuller, a Made in Italy excellence that espouses the same principles of sustainability.

Columbia Sportswear’s Omni-Heat™ Infinity is ready to go into space

Columbia’s thermal insulation technology, used in outdoor apparel, will be applied on the Nova-C lunar lander, enhancing and supporting the advancement of new technologies and innovative materials and laying the groundwork for a sustainable human presence on the Moon. This is all thanks to an unprecedented partnership between Columbia Sportswear, a world leader in innovative outdoor, sports and lifestyle products, and Intuitive Machines, a pioneering space exploration company specialising in the early commercial development of the Moon. Omni-Heat™ Infinity, Columbia Sportswear’s patented thermo-reflective technology, is ready to go into space with the upcoming launch of Intuitive Machines’ Nova-C lunar module. During laboratory testing, Intuitive Machines researchers found that the gold part of Columbia’s Omni-Heat Infinity technology will provide benefits in insulating the lunar lander from the temperatures of space, which can vary between -250° and 250° Fahrenheit.

“As a clothing company that develops all-weather, all-activity outdoor products, it is important for us to test our technologies in the most extreme conditions and find ways to innovate beyond our customers’ current needs,” said Haskell Beckham, Vice President of Innovation at Columbia Sportswear”.


Nineties inspiration forfor Conceria Superior

A leading player in the luxury leather sector for haute couture for over 60 years, Conceria Superior took part in Lineapelle Milano with a collection that stylistically reinterprets a revolutionary decade, such as the 1990s, characterised by experimentation, grunge and pop, and great innovation in materials.

The collection is characterised by a chromatic choice made up of contrasts, bright and vibrant colours contrasting with pastel shades: ochre, reds, corals meet powder pink, lavender and water green. Silver returns as a protagonist, albeit in its most delicate version. Superior’s precious and exclusive skins – lambskins, calves, half calves – translate two distinct atmospheres, soft, natural, sometimes impalpable on the one hand, or unrestrained, silky, shiny, flashy skins on the other. Wrinkles, creases, strong degradation on the one hand contrast with silky, flawless, linear, pure and simple on the other.

Sustainability aspects remain at the heart of Tannery Superior’s corporate strategy and are reflected in the product. In addition to the transversal certifications (e.g. ISO 14001, Traceability, Ethics), the company management devotes great attention and resources to the LWG, which encompasses all aspects of sustainability, grouped under a single, globally recognised standard, and has been engaged in a complex plan towards Carbon Neutrality for several years. Superior has been an “audited” member of LWG since 2019 and in January 2023 received the LWG Silver Medal, an award that recognises companies in the tanning industry that manage Quality, Environment, Safety and Ethics in a system-wide perspective.