Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Studio

More than $7.5 million the business generated by the 31st edition of INSPIRAMAIS

More than a thousand innovative materials presented by the more than 150 exhibitors and dedicated to the footwear, apparel, tapestry, furniture and jewelry industries, with an expected turnover of more than $7.5 million: these are the interesting numbers that characterized the 31st edition of INSPIRAMAIS, held January 21-22 at the FIERGS Event Center in Porto Alegre/RS , Brazil. The traditional event dedicated to innovation showcased a wide range of cross-sectional materials from Brazilian leather suppliers-from bovine to exotic skins-offering stylists, buyers, and brand managers a highly curated selection of business partners, as well as other materials that are an integral part of the fashion supply chain, concentrating in one space all the resources necessary for the development of creative and quality fashion collections. Indeed, we recall that Brazilian leather is in high demand and sought after, even by Italian and European companies, because of its high quality.

According to Silvana Dilly, superintendent of the Brazilian Association of Leather, Footwear and Manufactured Components Companies (Assintecal), INSPIRAMAIS showed the recovery of the fashion production chain, which was shaken by the floods that devastated Rio Grande do Sul last May. “The transversality of materials as a competitive tool has helped the sector in this recovery. Today we have brought together here materials that serve from the pet market to the footwear market, thus offering a wide variety of possibilities.”

Present for the first time at the Inspiramais show was the automotive upholstery sector, which generated significant business in both the domestic and international markets.

New projects also included the Buyer Project, carried out as part of Brazilian Footwear, an export support program for the components sector promoted by Assintecal in collaboration with the Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency (ApexBrasil) and which brought 23 international groups from Argentina, Colombia, Ecuador, Guatemala, Mexico and Paraguay to the show.

Inspiramais is promoted by the Centre for the Brazilian Tanning Industry (CICB), the Brazilian Association of Companies of Components for Leather, Footwear, and Artifacts (Assintecal), the Brazilian Textile and Apparel Industry Association (Abit), the Brazilian Furniture Industry Association (Abimóvel), and the Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency (ApexBrasil).


Discovering the COURO & ARTE and BOLZANO tanneries

On the occasion of Inspiramais, the editorial staff of ARS SUTORIA was invited to visit two important tanneries in the Rio Grande Do Sul region. These are the COURO & ARTE tannery (www.couroearte.net), based in Lindolfo Collor, the national capital of cowhide products. With more than 20 years of presence in the market, it operates in the processing of hides (mainly pony leather) for footwear, furniture and decoration, distinguishing itself by an innovative vision and high product quality. Present in the international market (Australia, New Zelanza, China, USA and Europe), it exhibits at Lineapelle Milan and Lineapelle New York.


Another visit of great interest was to the BOLZANO tannery (www.bolzanobrasil.com) based in São Leopoldo city. A modern tannery, established 25 years ago, with state-of-the-art machinery of the best Italian brands and about 100 employees, very attentive to sustainability and LWG Gold certified. Specializing in a quality product, Bolzano is positioned in the medium-high end of the market: the heart of production is nappa leather for the fashion world. They have an international clientele in different countries such as Colombia and Argentina in South America, France and Italy in Europe, and work with many American brands. The owner is of Italian origin, Sergio Bolzan Panerai, while the business is run by his son Augusto Panerei, who attends major international fairs, starting with Lineapelle Milan and Lineapelle New York.


FUTURMODA 2025: focus on sustainable machinery

The ‘benchmark event for components, leather, textiles and machinery for footwear and leather goods returns to Elche, Spain, on March 12-13, 2024. This year, machinery will take center stage, with over 20 leading companies showcasing advanced and sustainable technological solutions for footwear and leather goods manufacturing.

Among the highlights on display will be specialized machines for producing eco-sustainable footwear, designed to reduce environmental impact and optimize resources. These cutting-edge technologies cover a wide range of production processes, including innovative soles, anatomical insoles, and components made from recycled and biodegradable materials.

Visitors will also have the opportunity to explore the capabilities of 3D printing machines, which can produce prototypes and final parts with millimeter precision, reducing production time and costs. These tools are key for developing customized products with unique designs, adapting to the growing demands of the market.

Another major attraction will be automated machinery for material cutting and assembly, which enhances process efficiency and minimizes waste. These machines not only optimize productivity but are also essential for meeting sustainability standards demanded by consumers and international regulations.

The exhibition area will feature live demonstrations of these innovations, allowing visitors to witness their functionality and the benefits they can bring to their production lines.

Slight growth in German footwear sales in the domestic market

According to the Federal Association of the German Footwear and Leather Goods Industry, the budget of German shoe manufacturers for the year 2024 shows lights and shadows and varies greatly from company to company. While strong brands with a high presence in international markets have performed well, suppliers in some segments, such as business or comfort, still face significant challenges.

However, domestic sales of the German footwear industry showed a moderate nominal increase, while foreign trade transactions were lower than expected. The number of employees remains stable, wage and salary trends are significantly above the rate of inflation. This is according to the latest data from the Federal Statistical Office (destatis.de) compared to previous years.

From January to November 2024, total sales in the footwear industry reached 2.12 billion euros, nominally representing a slight increase of 2.4 percent compared to the equivalent period in 2023, when sales reached 2.07 billion euros.

In Germany, sales increased from 1.55 billion euros in 2023 to 1.62 billion euros in 2024 (+4.5 percent). On the other hand, foreign sales decreased by 6.6 percent from 528 million euros to 493 million euros; 61 percent of foreign sales were in the euro zone.

The total value of footwear exports was about 10.4 billion euros in 2024 compared to 10.1 billion euros in the previous period, an increase in export value of about 3 percent. Poland and France remain the most important destinations for exports.

On the import side, for 2023 it was about 11.9 billion euros; in 2024 it reached 11.7 billion euros, with a slight decrease (the December figure for 2024 was estimated)-a 1.7 percent drop. It is particularly noteworthy that Vietnam, with 2.6 billion euros in 2024, replaced China (2.5 billion euros) for the first time as the most important country of origin for the entire year.

In a state of recession for the second year in a row, Germany thus shows that it urgently needs new impulses to improve its industrial position, starting with measures to reduce the heavy burdens resulting from general legal conditions and excessive bureaucratic obligations, for which HDS/L hopes that lawmakers at the European and German federal level will take action and refocus on the competitiveness of the economy.

All set for Micam, Mipel and Lineapelle

Unique details, timeless design, stylish details: these are the ‘must-have accessories’ that will be presented through the events scheduled at the end of February at Fiera Milano, essential and unique elements capable of embellishing the most sought-after total looks worldwide.

The alliance between the appointments dedicated to fashion that are able to bring together international and national buyers is renewed, offering a unique opportunity for business and anticipation of future trends. MICAM Milano, MIPEL and TheOne Milano will open the stage from 23 to 25 February, ending with Lineapelle, from 25 to 27 February.

The presence of 2,858 brands, 46% of which from 51 countries, underlines and confirms the value of a synergy capable of combining innovation, tradition and business. Last September there were 41 thousand visitors from over 70 countries.

During the press conference presenting the events, the Lombardy Region’s Regional Councillor for Tourism, Fashion, Design, Territorial Marketing and Major Events, BarbaraMazzali, stressed: «In Milan we are used to seeing fashion on the catwalks, but those fashion shows could not exist without the supply chain of Lombardy’s 28 thousand companies, which account for 16% of the region’s GDP and represent the excellent know-how of Lombardy, where 45% of Italian fashion is produced, it should be remembered.»

MICAM

Now in its 99th edition, MICAM celebrates Game Changers, that is, anyone who is able to understand the conventions of the past in order to innovate them, opening up to new horizons in a sector, that of footwear, that is in constant movement. The over 800 brands exhibiting at MICAM are the protagonists. The expected operators will find a wide range of collections for AW 25-26, emerging designers with their exclusive and sought-after creations, and will be able to get up to date on a variety of topics, from new trends to sustainability, with talks by gurus and retail experts. There will also be the eagerly awaited fashion shows and the Future of Retail space. For Giovanna Ceolini, President of MICAM, «our entrepreneurs are undoubtedly daring. It takes courage to succeed every season in bringing new collections to the market. This year MICAM will be celebrating its 100th edition in September and is happy to once again give space to manufacturers and buyers who are facing great difficulties today.»

 

MIPEL

For Claudia Sequi, President of MIPEL, the fair represents «a unique cross-section in the international leather goods panorama. It is not only a commercial hub, but also a point of reference for the sector to discuss the market situation and new trends. It is at delicate times, such as the current one, that you have to be ready to seize the opportunities that open up and you have to be in the right place at the right time.» New trends, handbags, backpacks, fanny packs, suitcases, trolleys, hats, gloves, umbrellas, belts, wallets, as well as the latest from the world of leather goods. There are several novelties at this edition: from the return of brands such as Biasia, Bonfanti, Gabs, Caterina Lucchi, Titan and Travelite to the creation of a real workshop, where the public can observe and experience the process of making leather objects up close.

 

LINEAPELLE MILAN

Spring Summer 2026 will be on stage at the stands of over 1100 exhibitors (manufacturers of leather, fabrics, synthetics, accessories and components; with Italian tanneries playing the leading role). There will be many events: from the design of Lineapelle Interiors to the fashion shows of Lineapelle Designers Edition; from the craft workshops of In The Making to the in-depth studies of the Science Based Fashion Talks; from the projects of the fashion schools to the vitality of the Amici per la Pelle competition. Fulvia Bacchi, Director of Lineapelle: «I am amazed by the ability of companies to achieve, every season, a high level of innovation obtained through great research effort. To be able to produce beauty every six months is a real challenge, especially given the edginess of the market.»

BarbaraMazzali


For 50 years, Moro Minuterie’s details have made the difference

On the Moro Minuterie website, the photo that Arsutoria itself took during the event organised for the 40th anniversary milestone still stands out. The smiles and hugs of that shot can also be found, 10 years later, in the images depicting the celebration of the half-century of activity of the Paduan company.

At the end of 2024, in fact, Moro Minuterie celebrated its 50th anniversary with a gala evening organised in the historic Villa Sagredo, in Vigonovo.

The company from Padua, an international reference point for the study, production and supply of metal components, reached this important milestone by following the philosophy and values that have always guided and distinguished it.

Thanks to the commitment and sacrifices of the founders Nildo Moro and Donata Pozzan, Moro Minuterie’s adventure, which started out in a garage, was transformed over the years into a company that grew and consolidated. In 1990, the headquarters were moved to the industrial area of Padua and today, spread over 4,000 square metres of production, warehouses and offices, and with around twenty employees, it boasts an annual turnover of around 3.5 million euro, 60% of which is exported.

In 2000, Marta Moro, together with her husband Carlo Benedetti, created and managed Teknolinea, the international partner that allows Moro Minuterie to preside over countries and market segments that cannot be reached directly from Italy.

Silvia Moro, flanked by Moro Minuterie’s staff, remains in Padua, at the helm of the company since 2004.

But what are the company’s strengths? The variety and quality of the products as well as a very attentive pre- and post-sales customer service. And let’s not forget the added value of always having focused on Made in Italy and 0 km suppliers: «Being able to say that everything we sell is made in-house in full compliance with European and international standards, plays in our favour», the company emphasises.

To this wonderful Italian story, which began in 1974 with the construction of equipment for stamping small metal parts in a small place in the province of Padua, and which over the years has come to represent an international benchmark in the production of small metal parts, go the best wishes of the entire sector.


Luigi Carnevali, when history is based on research for the future

Luigi Carnevali S.a.s. was founded in the early 1900s, specialising in the production and sale of buckles, trimmings and embroidery. At the time, the company had also taken over the representation of the French company ‘Leon’, which was particularly renowned for the production of highly valuable vermeil (a variety of gilded silver) enamelled buckles. Luigi Carnevali’s dedication to the beautiful and well-made aroused and still arouses the interest of a very discerning clientele that includes prestigious brands and Maisons including, to name but a few: Bottega Veneta, Prada, Gucci, Luis Vuitton and Cristian Louboutin. Devoted to innovative, quality products, the company introduced gutta-percha to Italy: an exclusive material, of which Luigi Carnevali is still the dealer, made from the incredibly breathable natural rubber used to reinforce leather. The merger in 2017 with the sister company Resinoll, a leader in the production and marketing of thermo-adhesives for garments, has made Luigi Carnevali competitive at 360°: in footwear, leather and fabric clothing.

But why talk about a company’s past when it is the challenges of the present that are pressing? Because it is on those solid foundations that the Italian company continues to rest its future developments, because it is thanks to the know-how acquired over more than one hundred years of history that today it can provide customers with the best possible solutions, operating not just as a supplier, but as a true consultant. On the strength of its long course, today we could call Luigi Carnevali the Mr. Wolf of footwear and leather goods, the partner that solves your problems!

“Our objective – stresses Alessandro Crivello, Sales Manager – is not simply to sell, but first of all to understand the real needs of our customers, identify the most suitable reinforcement and only then propose it. With more than 50 products always in stock, we are able to guarantee quick and efficient deliveries.”

What are the most popular products on the market lately?

“For the past ten years or so, the most popular type of product has been that which gives materials a soft hand and great comfort. Thanks to our in-depth knowledge of materials and products, we have been able to meet the needs of the market by supplying very light reinforcements to which we apply a very thin layer of thermoadhesive which, while guaranteeing excellent bonding performance, does not go through the reinforcement during use, preserving the original characteristics of the reinforced leather. Products for footwear and leather goods in cotton and polyester are perfect for soft but workable performance.”

 

How has the work of suppliers changed over the years?

“Today, work is very fragmented and each customer requires a good amount of customisation. It is essential to be able to solve customers’ problems as well as being able to develop ad hoc products when needed. We have to play a very similar role to consultancy, to test for them. Our strength is also to be able to present new products already applied on prototypes.”

 

Speaking of new, many sustainable solutions are being developed for the sector…

“This is undoubtedly one of the most pressing demands that we too have been working on and continue to work on. This is demonstrated by a new product line, made from recycled materials of natural origin and other sustainable components, GRS certified and designed for those who favour the use of ecological reinforcements. We have grasped this need and committed ourselves to finding the best possible solution. This is our strength.”


Debuts “BAREFOOT – EUROPEAN SHOE FAIR”

A new fair dedicated to barefoot footwear, a growing phenomenon, is born and promises to give new impetus to the industry. The fair will be held in Germany, in the halls of Messe Offenbach, from July 31 to August 3, 2025. About 60 German and international exhibitors are expected to attend the first edition. The assortment will include barefoot shoes for men, women and children. The first two days the fair is exclusively for trade visitors, while on the remaining days the event will also be open to end consumers.

Carl-August Seibel, president of HDS/L, said about the new fair, “We are creating a cool platform for a cool community. HDS/L is the right partner and Messe Offenbach, with its central location, is the best location. I also find it very exciting to open the fair to end consumers for two days. This gives us many new impulses.”

Roman Degenhardt and Kristin Fitterer, managing directors of barefoot shoe specialist Zehenspiel (Erbach) and co-creators of the new fair, consider the event a must for all retailers specializing in this type of footwear: “The fast-growing barefoot shoe segment needs an independent platform where manufacturers, retailers, and all those involved in barefoot shoes can meet, inform themselves, and exchange ideas. The broad spectrum of barefoot shoe brands will be visible in Offenbach. ‘

The new trade fair will also be accompanied by an extensive, practical supporting programme – similar to the well-known, successful events at Messe Offenbach.


Lineapelle Milano: My Head In The Clouds

It will be the days of creativity, inspiration and a supply chain – that of fashion, luxury, design and manufacturers of leathers, fabrics, synthetics, accessories and components – confronting each other on style, the conjuncture and strategies to manage an economic moment that remains complex and undecipherable. After LINEAPELLE LONDON (Jan. 21) and LINEAPELLE NEW YORK (Jan. 29- 30), Lineapelle lands in Milan for edition number 105, hosting more than 1100 exhibitors and offering the usual, packed agenda of events. Watchword: My Head In The Clouds. Not an invitation to carelessness, but the title of the trends developed by the fair’s Fashion Committee for Spring-Summer 2026. A “way to recognize the positive qualities of an open and free mind, capable of going beyond limits.” Clouds “are the place of ReflAction, a crasi between the words Reflection and Action: they are the creative space, the privileged, safe place from which to observe our dizzying future.”

After the debut in February 2024, Lineapelle Interiors, an exhibition project that aims to highlight the innovative charge of tanneries and material manufacturers in the field of interior design, is back. Twenty installations will showcase never-before-seen creations resulting from the collaboration between 20 suppliers and 20 studios specializing in interior design.

New look also for the Lineapelle Designers Edition fashion shows: seven shows in three days that will bring a new idea of leather to the runway. Events that match the six daily presentations that will enliven Spazio Lineapelle, the showroom in Milan’s Piazza Tomasi di Lampedusa, from Feb. 25 to March 2.

Renewing its proposal for artisan involvement is In The Making, a leather goods workshop created by LINEAPELLE in collaboration with Giorgio Linea, where visitors – by reservation only – can try their hand at creating small fashion accessories, experiencing firsthand the sense and value of savoir-faire.

Like every year in February, the vitality of Friends For Leather, the art competition organized by UNIC – Italian Tanneries that involves more than 1,000 middle school students from Italian tanning districts, returns to LINEAPELLE. The theme of this edition is Circenses – Leather and Leather in Circus Games from Ancient Rome to Today.

Italian leather goods: export decline and domestic market stall

The data processed for Assopellettieri by the Study Center of Confindustria Accessori Moda describe a still suffering 3rd quarter (-6.7% trend in foreign sales, with -28% to China) and estimate a year-end in which the absence of significant improvements in the economic trend in the final months could cause sector turnover to drop to about 12 billion euros, with the loss of more than 1 billion over 2023 (-8.4%).

A framework in which the easing of downturns in the second half of the year (for comparison with already unsatisfactory 2023 months) does not change the overall assessment of a year to be quickly filed away, marked by a noticeable slowdown in international trade that did not spared even luxury. The slowdown in demand following the post-Covid rebound, which was already evident during 2023 and has intensified sharply since the beginning of 2024, has led to a setback in manufacturing activity, with negative balances in the number of active companies (-107 from January to September) and employees (-1,307), along with a sharp increase in the number of hours of layoffs authorized in the leather sector (+139.4 percent).

Confirmation of this difficult scenario also comes from the ISTAT index of industrial production, which, net of calendar effects, shows in the first 9 months for the item “Travel and leather goods” a contraction in quantities realized of as much as -20.5 percent. Markedly unfavorable indications have affected every single month since the beginning of 2024, with the sole exception of August (+3.3%), which, however, was immediately followed in September by a further heavy retreat, in the order of -30%. Even in terms of turnover, the reports emerging from the usual sample survey conducted by the Confindustria Accessori Moda Study Center among Assopellettieri member companies show a slowdown in the comparison with 2023.

Italian footwear: export (-9.2%) and turnover (-9.7%) slow down in the first 9 months

In the first nine months of 2024, the Italian footwear sector recorded declines in the main indicators. The declines in exports (-9.2% in value on January-September 2023) with the strong reduction in orders, had heavy repercussions on production activity (-18.9% Istat index of industrial production) and turnover (-9.7%). This is the snapshot taken by the report of the Confindustria Accessori Moda Study Center for Assocalzaturifici, which shows how, the effect of the post-Covid rebound having ended and after a 2023 of substantial stability (at least in value), 2024 closes with negative signs in all the main variables. Estimating a sectoral turnover that the first 12-month projections show slowing by -9.3 percent, to 13.2 billion euros (almost 1.4 billion less than the previous year) and with inevitable effects on business demographics and employment.

In detail, the report shows how, with reference to foreign demand, the trend is unfavorable for all product segments, with the sole exception of shoes with rubber uppers, whose exports grew by +8.2% in volume and +1.3% in value. On the other hand, shoes with leather uppers – which have always been characteristic of Italian production and cover 65 percent of foreign sales in value – recorded contractions of -7.1 percent in quantity and -8.2 percent in value.

“The reflective performance of many important international economies, in Europe and outside the EU borders, and a geopolitical context that is anything but favorable, which has seen the addition, in addition to the Russian-Ukrainian conflict, of another front of instability in the Middle East, have severely penalized footwear exports in 2024,” – commented Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici.

Looking at the markets, EU partners overall show less penalizing dynamics than those related to non-EU countries. Among the latter, positive signals only from China (+1.7 percent in value, with +19 percent in quantities), Hong Kong (+8.7 percent) and especially the United Arab Emirates (+26.3 percent), despite a moderate drop in pairs for both; and then Turkey, with increases over 10% in both volume and value.