Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Magazine

Hypercell: the new generation lightweight foam by Co.Bo.

For the past year, there has been a lot of talk in Europe about SCF (supercritical foam). I emphasise Europe because SCF has already been used in the Far East for several years. Inherited from the automotive industry, it is a manufacturing process that allows the production of expanded materials that retain their thermoplastic properties. To tell the truth, there is no single type of production process, but the common denominator of all processes that go under the name SCF is that the thermoplastic material in a fluid state is mixed at high temperatures (and pressures) with a gas in its ‘supercritical’ state, i.e. a particular physical state in which the gas resembles a fluid without actually being one. As the temperature and pressure decrease, the gas returns to its gaseous state, forming microbubbles that remain trapped inside the material. The big difference between SCF and EVA is that the ‘contained’ microbubbles do not require the ‘container’ material to cross-link (i.e. its molecular structure to form covalent bonds that make the material thermosetting) in order to remain trapped, and therefore the material remains, to all intents and purposes, a thermoplastic that can be returned to a fluid state by heating.

Co.Bo., an Italian company that has been manufacturing highly innovative soles for 40 years, will present Hypercell to the footwear industry, a technology that is definitely worth keeping an eye on because it has what it takes to compete with many of the materials currently used in both the performance footwear and luxury sneaker segments.

Compared to EVA, it achieves densities of less than 0.2 g/cm3 while maintaining the elastic rebound characteristics typical of polyurethane products and offers superior dimensional control in the moulding process compared to foams.

Compared to TPU, it offers the lightness typical of foams without compromising abrasion resistance.

Compared to PU with TPU film, both because the design can be much cleaner and because it easily exceeds 100,000 flex cycles.

And also compared to SCF, which has recently appeared in Europe, because it is completely free of the typical marbling streaks, also ensuring the possibility of homogeneous colours without compromise.


Matteo Pasca
Arsutoria School director


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TECHNICAL FEATURES

Density: 0,15 – 0,20 gr/cm3

Hardness: 45 – 48 Asker C

Flexural strength: > 100.000 cycles

Energy return: > 50%

Abrasion resistance: <= 160 Gr/mm3

Compression resistance: < 30%

Split Tear strength: 3.5 mm (20 mm)


TECH PROPERTIES AND ADVANTAGES

Enhanced Durability: +60%
Engineered for resilience, Hypercell resists wear and tear, significantly extending the lifespan of high-performance footwear products.

Extremely Lightweight: -30%
Hypercell reduces overall product weight by 30% compared to traditional injected EVA materials, enhancing performance and efficiency without compromising structural integrity.

High Energy Return: +70%
Hypercell provides exceptional energy rebound, boosting responsiveness and performance while reducing wearer fatigue. 


APPLICATIONS

Midsole
Hypercell midsoles applications offer optimal comfort, energy return, and durability, making them ideal for high-performance sports footwear and technical running shoes. Engineered for athletic performance, it is suitable also for safety and lifestyle applications.

Single-mold
The Single Mold application allows for a seamless, one-piece product construction, improving durability and reducing assembly time. Perfect for casual sneakers, lifestyle shoes, and slip-ons where lightweight comfort and streamlined design are essential.

Insert
Designed to complement existing midsole structures, Hypercell midsole insert applications provide targeted comfort and energy rebound in specific areas. Ideal for technical footwear, including trail running and hiking/safety shoes, where additional support and responsiveness are needed.

Filler
Hypercell midsole filler applications optimize material usage by filling voids within the sole structure, reducing weight without compromising strength. Commonly used in performance footwear and fashion sneakers to balance lightweight design with structural integrity.

Leather as a model of sustainability

Leather is not just a material, but a true paradigm of how innovation can be transformed into an experience of sustainability. It is around this concept that UNIC – on the occasion of Lineapelle in September 2025 – is organising a round table with the evocative title: “Innovation that starts with the ingredients: leather as a model and experience of sustainability”.

The event is scheduled for Wednesday 24 September at 12 noon in the Conference Room on the first floor of Building E08 (Corso Italia, opposite Pavilion 5). It is an opportunity for discussion open to all professionals in the supply chain, who will be able to explore the prospects and paths of innovation that are reshaping the sector.

A concrete case: Ecotan

The debate will not remain abstract. During the meeting, Ecotan will be presented as a tangible example of biocircular innovation in the leather supply chain. This project demonstrates how applied research can generate solutions that combine material quality, production efficiency and environmental responsibility.

Exceptional speakers

The discussion will be led by authoritative voices from different backgrounds but united by their commitment to sustainable innovation:

• Giacomo Zorzi, Executive Regional Office Veneto District, UNIC

• Francesco Sapienza, Sustainable Materials and Data Manager, Kering Group

• Nicola Gianesin, Founder & Board Member, GCP srl Società Benefit

• Paolo Bruno, Strategic Advisor, Garsport

• Alessandra Taccon, BU Leather Sustainable Technologies Business Director, Silvateam

• Gustavo Adrián Defeo, Scientific Director, CTC ARS Tinctoria

Special Guest

The round table will also host Alessandro Bruni, author of the book “I 4 Pilastri per le aziende BtoB” (The 4 Pillars for B2B Companies), soon to be published by FrancoAngeli Editore, who will offer a new perspective on innovation as a strategic lever in business.

Innovation as sustainability

“One of the aspects of innovation is that it is always modern, but it takes time to take shape. This time, the most modern form of innovation is sustainability.”

A quote that sums up the spirit of the meeting: looking ahead without forgetting that time and practicality are essential factors in transforming ideas into real change.

 Innovation and transparency: the fashion textile industry meets at Centrocot

 A rich and constructive discussion on key issues for the future of the textile and fashion supply chain. Entitled “Innovation, Legality and Sustainability: certifying the future of the fashion supply chain,” the conference organized by Centrocot on September 15 in Busto Arsizio, part of the “ZDHC Solutions Roadshow” program, brought together companies and institutions to explore highly topical issues such as transparency, sustainable chemical management, and social responsibility.

After greetings from Anna Deligios of the Varese Chamber of Commerce and Luigi Galdabini, President of Confindustria Varese, the conference got underway. The topic of legality was discussed with lawyer Danila Passantino of Confindustria Moda, who illustrated the key points of the new Memorandum of Understanding that aims to regulate contracts in the fashion supply chain with the goal of combating irregular work and contractual dumping. “Legality and sustainability are no longer options,” she said, “but essential conditions for competing in global markets and protecting our Made in Italy brand.”

Worthy of note was the speech by Grazia Cerini, CEO and general manager of Centrocot, whose laboratories are among the most advanced in Europe. She explained how certifications and digital platforms such as OEKO-TEX® and ZDHC help companies transform regulatory obligations into opportunities for innovation and reputation. In a global market that demands ever greater guarantees, Italian companies are proving to be one step ahead. “In this context,” Cerini emphasized, “our companies are ahead of the game,” not only with established protocols, but also by anticipating regulations with the latest innovations. The event provided an opportunity to award the first Italian company certified as “Responsible Business” (Tintoria Vago in Busto Arsizio): a new Oeko-Tex certification scheme that verifies compliance with due diligence throughout the supply chain and essentially tells the world that the company is fully compliant in all respects.

The subsequent panel discussion, “Sustainability in Action,” moderated by Aurora Magni, provided concrete testimonials from leading companies and operators who have made the path to sustainability their competitive advantage. Speakers included Soledad Zausa and Gaia Zucca (Decathlon), Barbara Cimmino (Yamamay), Chiara Ferraris (Radici Group), Marino Vago (Tintoria Vago), Roberto Grassi (Grassi), and Antonio Massafra representing workers.

The final presentation was given by Marta Simonetti, Europe Region Manager at ZDHC, who illustrated the latest developments in the “Roadmap to Zero” program for eliminating chemical risk along the supply chain. In ten years of work, much progress has been made, said the ZDHC manager, especially in the textile sector, but there is still much to be done, particularly in the leather and footwear sectors.

The day ended with a visit to Centrocot’s MultiLab and its Textile Recycling Experience, introduced by President Mario Montonati: a tangible example of how innovation can transform textile recycling into a resource for the circular economy.

The protagonists of the Sustainability in Action panel
The slide illustrating the characteristics of the new OEKO-TEX Responsible Business certification

How to certify custom-made orthopedic insoles? Here is the solution

The growing focus on individual well-being and injury prevention has led to an increased demand for custom-made orthopedic insoles. However, not everyone may be aware that the use of orthopedic insoles that are not specifically certified together with safety footwear can compromise the validity of the certification as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).

To overcome this problem, Utility Diadora, together with the start-up Medere, has developed a service for the production of custom-made insoles that are fully compliant with regulations. Thanks to a free and intuitive web app, partner companies are offered a fast and efficient service for the production of certified custom-made insoles, directly in-house and without the need for external travel.

Data collection (photos and videos) is just a technical upload phase and is guided, simple, and secure. No health or technical skills are required on the part of the operator performing the scan: the system has been designed to be accessible and compliant for everyone to use.

 To explore the topic further, we asked the key players involved in the initiative a few questions. Giorgio Pira, Global Sales Director at Diadora Utility; Giorgio Salvetti, End User Sales Manager & P.P.E. Trainer Europe at Diadora Utility; and Marco Mannisi, founder of Medere, provided their responses.

 

Is the proposal for customized orthopedic insoles only for those with specific problems, or could it be of interest to all workers in order to improve comfort and prevent any musculoskeletal problems related to the type of work?

Giorgio Pira, Global Sales Director at Diadora Utility

Giorgio Pira: “In the professional sphere, the use of insoles that are not certified by the manufacturer compromises the validity of safety shoes as Personal Protective Equipment, exposing workers and companies to legal and health risks. The proposal developed by Utility Diadora in collaboration with Medere stems from a concrete need: to offer all workers, not only those with specific pathologies, the possibility of using manufacturer-certified, custom-made orthopedic insoles to improve daily comfort and posture and promote the prevention of musculoskeletal disorders. If there is a medically certified condition, an insole certified as a medical device is made. If there is no prescription but there are still issues that affect working conditions, a custom-made comfort insole can still be created that does not alter the PPE certification of the footwear and will be useful for specific problems that generic insoles cannot solve”.

 

 

 

How did the idea for the app come about and how does it work, particularly with regard to data collection?

Giorgio Salvetti: “The web app was created to respond to the growing demand for custom-made orthopedic insoles, including for use at work, offering an innovative and fast alternative to the traditional clinical process, which is often complex, lengthy, and difficult to access. Together with Medere, we have developed this intuitive and free tool that allows the necessary data to be collected directly in the workplace in just 15-20 minutes, without requiring any technical or medical expertise.

Giorgio Salvetti, End User Sales Manager & P.P.E. Trainer Europe at Diadora Utility

It is very simple to use: all you need is a smartphone and a sheet of A4 paper. Guided by video tutorials, the user takes six photos and records a short video for each foot, using the A4 sheet to check the correct foot size. The Web App verifies the quality of the data shared with internal processes that eliminate the possibility of error. The data, automatically sent to the Medere team, will be used for the analysis phase and the subsequent 3D processing and modeling of the insole based on the morphology of the foot, the medical prescription, and the results of the specific analysis”.

 

How is compliance with PPE regulations ensured?

Giorgio Pira and Giorgio Salvetti: “The system is based on the strict application of the new EU Regulation No. 2017/745 (MDR), which introduced significant changes to the rules governing the manufacture and marketing of medical devices. Each certified insole is made to a valid medical prescription and its construction is entrusted to a specialized team that includes orthopedic technicians and biomedical engineers.

The process involves the preparation of an individual technical file for each insole, validation by the orthopedic technician, and the manufacturer’s signature. A Declaration of Conformity is also issued, certifying that the device has been manufactured in full compliance with the parameters of the Medical Device Regulation. All documentation, including the medical prescription, is archived for at least ten years, as required by law.

Medere certified insoles are compatible with most Diadora Utility models, for which full integration between the orthotic and the shoe has been verified. In this way, the footwear retains its PPE certification even when fitted with a customized insole. The entire process, from data collection via the Web App to delivery of the insole, has been designed to comply with every regulatory step and ensure maximum safety for the end user”.

 

What materials are used to make custom insoles?

Marco Mannisi, founder of Medere

Marco Mannisi: “Medere insoles are made of TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane), a material selected for its advanced biomechanical properties. TPU guarantees:

• high flexibility, which allows dynamic adaptation to the phases of the step;

• mechanical and wear resistance, even under prolonged use;

• controlled elastic return, useful for supporting propulsive thrust and absorbing impact with the ground;

• biocompatibility, important for reducing skin risks or allergic reactions.

Each insole is designed with a customized internal geometry (thickness, density, and reinforcement zones) based on the morphology of the foot, the biomechanical needs of the user, and the type of task performed. This allows us to offer an ideal balance between comfort, support, and protection, actively contributing to the prevention of musculoskeletal injuries and improving overall ergonomics. The material used is tracked and validated in the technical file in accordance with the requirements of Regulation (EU) 2017/745”.

When was Medere founded and who are its founders? What expertise do they have in the biomedical and regulatory fields?

Marco Mannisi: “Medere was founded in 2018 by a group of biomedical engineers and researchers with a clear vision: to bring digital customization to the world of medical devices. The founders have expertise in:

• CAD design and parametric 3D modeling;

• applied biomechanics and gait analysis;

• medical 3D printing and certified additive manufacturing;

• regulatory compliance and technical file development according to MDR.

The team has collaborated with public research centers, hospitals, universities, and companies in the orthopedic sector, including the Istituto Superiore di Sanità, the Politecnico di Milano, and the Vivitop network. In addition, Medere draws on the expertise of external partners for the management of legal, intellectual property protection, and regulatory aspects. This network of expertise has enabled Medere to develop a solid, multidisciplinary approach that combines technology, clinical practice, and regulatory requirements in a single platform. The focus has always been on the end user, with the aim of offering truly effective, safe, and certified devices”.

When is the official launch of the project scheduled?

Giorgio Salvetti: “The service is already up and running. Interested companies can contact Utility Diadora to find out who their local distributor is. No investment in equipment, licenses, or complex training courses is required: the Web App is free and can be used immediately in production contexts. The solution is ready to use and designed for rapid adoption, even on a large scale.”

The system for the design and production of certified custom-made orthopedic insoles
Diadora Utility – Vortex DA2 LOW – S3S SC SR HRO ESD

Custom-made orthopedic insoles: Utility Diadora’s answer

Did you know that using orthopedic insoles that are not specifically certified together with safety footwear can compromise the validity of the certification as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)?

 

The root of the problem: a real need

The growing focus on individual well-being and accident prevention has led to an increased demand for custom orthopedic insoles. In the workplace, however, it is essential that these devices are compatible and certified by the manufacturer for use in safety footwear: only in this way can full compliance with PPE regulations be maintained.

The answer: an integrated and innovative system

Utility Diadora, which has always been at the forefront of research into cutting-edge technologies and materials for workplace safety, has developed a unique service in collaboration with Medere, an Italian start-up specializing in customized medical devices.

Thanks to a free and intuitive web app, partner companies can offer their employees a fast and efficient service for the creation of certified custom-made insoles, directly in the company and without the need for external travel.

Data collection (photos and videos) is just a technical upload phase and is guided, simple, and secure. No health or technical skills are required on the part of the operator performing the scan: the system has been designed to be accessible and compliant for everyone to use.

The data collected is processed by Medere using a customized 3D modeling system, based on the medical prescription. The insoles are manufactured using advanced 3D printing technologies, validated by an orthopedic technician, and delivered directly to the company, accompanied by a Declaration of Conformity.

 

Utility Diadora and Medere: pioneers working together to set a new standard

The history of Utility Diadora, a leading company in workwear and safety footwear that has always been committed to researching new technologies and materials for the safety sector, combines with that of Medere S.R.L., the Italian start-up that transforms innovative concepts into biomedical engineering products with a focus on finding cutting-edge solutions.

The combination of Utility Diadora’s experience and Medere’s biomedical innovation gives rise to a new paradigm: a fast, practical, and compliant service designed to respond efficiently to the needs of the safety sector, in full compliance with European Regulation (EU) 2017/745 on Medical Devices.

The system allows for significant savings in terms of time and organization, offering an integrated solution that improves worker well-being and optimizes business processes.

 

Worker well-being always at the center

-Customization and comfort: each insole is designed based on the anatomical shape of the worker’s foot and the activities performed, to improve posture and reduce fatigue and pain (e.g., plantar fasciitis, tendinitis).

-Innovative materials: Medere insoles offer impact absorption, gait stability, and biomechanical support, actively contributing to injury prevention and maintaining musculoskeletal health.

This partnership offers a concrete, technological, and safe solution for creating custom-made insoles certified for use in safety footwear, thus ensuring full validity as PPE. A tangible benefit for workers, companies, and the entire occupational safety ecosystem.

 

 

The insoles are designed using a customized 3D modeling system, based on the medical prescription. They are then produced using advanced 3D printing technologies
Diadora Utility – Vortex DA2 LOW – S1PS SC SR HRO ESD

 

IULTCS CONGRESS: research takes stock in Lyon

Two hundred and twenty delegates from twenty countries gathered in Lyon from September 9 to 11 to participate in the 38th IULTCS Congress, entitled “Beyond leather tradition, innovation & sustainability”.

Jean-Pierre Gualino, president of the Congress

The host was Congress President Jean-Pierre Gualino, accompanied by IULTCS President Joan Carles Castell and President of the Association of French Chemists (AFICTIC) Thierry Poncet.

This time organized by the French, the congress is as usual the culmination of the activity of IULTCS, the international association of tanning chemists, whose mission is to promote and share the results of research in the sector. This edition saw the presentation of some fifty technical-scientific reports (plus 70 poster presentations) divided into nine working sessions dedicated to: from traceability to beamhouse, chrome and chrome-free tanning, metal-free alternatives, retanning, post-tanning, finishing, innovation, and sustainability.

Dietrich Tegtmeyer, a renowned expert in the field and past president of IULTCS, opened the proceedings with the traditional ‘Heidemann Lecture’ dedicated to the importance of collagen. It was a thought-provoking presentation in which the German expert highlighted the need to develop innovation in the field of recycling tanning by-products, which are rich in collagen and have an estimated market potential of around $680 million.

Joan Carles Castell, IULTCS president

The presentations that followed over the three days in Lyon offered a good snapshot of the direction of research in the sector, driven by increasingly restrictive regulations and consequent and increasingly burdensome market demands. In general, the topics discussed highlighted the efforts of the chemical tanning industry in researching and experimenting with innovative tanning agents and developing finishing products obtained from renewable and bio-based resources. Also of great interest were the ecodesign and LCA studies of leather, which provide scientific data that is essential both for improving the efficiency of the process itself and for communicating the progress made to the market and thus being able to compare it with the alternatives available on the market.

In terms of the origin of the research, Lyon saw massive participation by Chinese researchers from universities across the country. At the European level, Italy dominated with a dozen research projects (five of which were from the Italian Leather Research Institute, the others from members of the Association of Italian Chemists-AICC working in major companies in the sector), followed by Germany, France, and the United Kingdom. The Indian research world was also well represented with five projects and numerous delegates.

The audience included representatives from the French leather goods industry, while several observers noted the low participation of tanneries, a gap that should possibly be filled in the future to give greater weight to the event itself and to the interactions between delegates.

From Lyon to León

As usual, the event closed with the announcement of the venue for the next international meeting of leather chemists: the city of León, Mexico, will host the 39th IULTCS CONGRESS 2027 in two years’ time. The event will be hosted by the Mexican Association of Leather Technologists and Chemists (AQTCL) and will focus on challenges and opportunities in leather production within the important automotive leather center of León.

The Lyon Convention Center, which hosted the 38th IULTCS Congress
Approximately 220 delegates took part in the 38th IULTCS Congress
Part of the Italian delegation at the Congress

Lineapelle, Simac-Tanning Tech, Filo: it’s time for synergies

The 2025 edition of the global benchmark event for the leather, materials, accessories and technology sector was presented on 11 September in Rome at the ICE Agency. Lineapelle celebrates its 106th edition by presenting the AW 2026/2027 fashion season collections of around 1,150 exhibitors – including tanneries, accessories and components, fabrics and synthetic materials – from 36 countries. As usual, Lineapelle will be held alongside Simac-Tanning Tech, the technology fair for the footwear, leather goods and tanning industries, now in its 51st edition, with a total of 1,450 exhibiting companies from 37 countries and 25,000 operators expected to attend.

‘With our trade fairs, we bring a district to life, creating an alchemy that is difficult to reproduce. We collaborate with machine and chemical manufacturers on a daily basis. The innovations that are brought about are due to this close connection, so being together at the trade fair also gives us much more strength,’ said Fulvia Bacchi, CEO of Lineapelle.

Mauro Bergozza – President of Assomac (National Association of Footwear, Leather Goods and Tanning Technology Manufacturers) – first highlighted how Simac-Tanning Tech, unlike other comparable events around the world, is the only trade fair where technology is brought “physically”, with physical and practical demonstrations of many machines. Bergozza then stated that ‘the proximity to Italian tanneries, and therefore to UNIC (National Union of the Tanning Industry), is very important, and we want to intensify this collaboration because we believe that, today, the unification of work on the supply chain is more important than any other strategy’.

For the first time, Filo, the B2B event dedicated to high-end yarns and fibres for weaving, knitwear, furnishings and technical textiles, with around a hundred exhibitors, will also be held at the same time (23-24 September) and location as Lineapelle/Simac/Tanning Tech. Representing the high-end yarn fair, which was founded in the Biella area in 1993 and is now in its 64th edition, FILO General Manager Paolo Monfermoso reiterated: ‘Only by cross-pollinating can we achieve significant results.’

Fulvia Bacchi also emphasised that, at a time of general difficulty for the system such as the current one, the fact that Lineapelle continues to maintain its numbers demonstrates the resilience of these sectors, and this is only possible thanks to innovation, research and the ability to consistently present collections that are not only beautiful, but above all cutting-edge and sustainable.

‘Lineapelle,’ said Bacchi, ‘aims to be a laboratory of ideas, with conferences and seminars on innovation, research and artificial intelligence. At the fair, we will have an area dedicated to the innovative technologies we use to support our small and medium-sized enterprises, so that they can find new stimuli and new ideas to be competitive on international markets.’

To underline the strategic importance of the leather-materials-technology sector for the relaunch of the Italian industrial system and Made in Italy, the presentation of the three events took place in the presence of Roberto Luongo, advisor to Minister Urso for the internationalisation and promotion of Made in Italy, Fabrizio Lobasso – Deputy Director General for the Promotion of the Country System/Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation – and Matteo Zoppas – President of ICE Agency.

PGI, excellence and know-how: the conference organised by LES Italia

LES Italia, together with the School of Design of the Politecnico di Milano, with the support of EY and the participation of Dr Simona Marzetti of MIMIT–UIBM, organised a conference in Milan entitled ‘Italian products of excellence and the protection of geographical indications for non-food artisanal and industrial products’. The aim was to illustrate the new European legislation (Regulation 2023/2411) which, from December 2025, will extend GI protection to artisanal and industrial products. This historic step, the result of thirty years of negotiations, opens up new prospects for 92 Italian products already identified as potentially eligible for protection.

The discussions touched on three major themes: regulatory protection (with procedures, requirements and controls), the value of ‘know-how’ as a heritage to be protected and made attractive to new generations, and finally, future challenges related to the complexity of legislation, the scarcity of funds and the need to raise awareness among producers and consumers. The common thread? The idea that the real antagonist is not technology, but ignorance: the loss of awareness of the link between territory, identity and quality.

Among the speakers was Matteo Pasca, director of Arsutoria School, who recalled how excellence arises when creativity and technique find harmony. His reflection underlined a key concept: “Even with the most advanced machines, hands remain essential”. Craftsmanship is what distinguishes Made in Italy and allows it to be exported, as demonstrated by the school’s international training activities.

An event that did not merely celebrate Italian excellence but laid the foundations for a future in which legal protection and cultural enhancement go hand in hand, defending and relaunching Italian and regional productive identity.

IGP footwear: the Fermano-Maceratese tradition conquers Europe

Eleonora Ferracuti

While the footwear business is driven by the pace set by the global market, it is precisely this pace that Eleonora Ferracuti, Provincial Councillor of Fermo, was able to interpret when she launched the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) project to relaunch the Fermano-Maceratese footwear sector. This project is not just a gamble on the future, but a silent revolution that could redefine the boundaries of European manufacturing.

 

THE REGULATORY TURNING POINT

From 1st December 2025, it will be possible to apply for protected geographical indication registration in Italy for both artisanal and industrial products. No longer just Parmesan cheese and ham: now shoes, bags and other manufactured goods will also be able to boast the same recognition that has made Italian agri-food products famous throughout the world.

Who is responsible for this historic opening? The Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy, which acted as spokesperson in Europe for the enactment of EU Regulation 2023/2411 in November 2023. A diplomatic victory that opens up new scenarios for European craftsmanship.

 

THE CONSORTIUM THAT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

The Fermano-Maceratese Footwear Consortium was established in the province of Fermo in mid-November 2024, under the chairmanship of Germano Craia. Its headquarters? Monte Urano, not by chance: the beating heart of a district that has been setting the standard in Italian footwear production for decades.

The municipalities of Monte Urano, Porto Sant’Elpidio, Montegranaro, Fermo, Sant’Elpidio a Mare, Torre San Patrizio, Monte San Pietrangeli, Montecosaro, Civitanova Marche, Corridonia, Morrovalle and Monte San Giusto have already given their support. Such widespread support is no coincidence: when twelve municipalities unite for a common goal, it means that the idea has solid foundations.

Germano Craia

 

THE ENGAGEMENT STRATEGY

“We want to engage young people and make them even more involved in a sector that characterises the area,” says Councillor Ferracuti. And she has done just that, with a competition for secondary school students to design the logo for the IGP Calzatura. The winner will receive a prize of €400.

This is not just local marketing. It is a strategic move that recognises an uncomfortable truth: without the involvement of the younger generation, even the most brilliant project risks remaining a dead letter. Many of the young people involved are the children of those who work in the footwear sector. The circle is complete, and tradition finds new life.

 

REGULATIONS: THE FINAL CHALLENGE

Now comes the moment of truth: defining the production regulations. “We have to define the processing stages to be included and much more. It will be a serious and in-depth discussion,” warns the president of the Province of Fermo, Ortenzi. A discussion that allows for no mistakes, because ‘once written, it cannot be changed’.

The crucial question: how many processing steps must be carried out in the territory to obtain the PGI mark? Is one enough (as provided for in the European text of the law) or must they all be carried out? The answer will determine the success or failure of the entire operation.

 

REAL INNOVATION

The initiative has received positive feedback from the main local associations, including Confindustria, Confartigianato, CNA, Claai, CGIL and UIL. Agreements such as this memorandum of understanding are fundamental: they join forces and bring together skills and resources.

The goal is ambitious but clear: “to be among the first to be recognised as European excellence in craftsmanship”. It is a race against time that could redefine not only the image of the Fermo-Macerata district, but the entire Italian manufacturing landscape.

The game is on. And this time, it is not just entrepreneurs who are playing: entire communities are betting on their industrial future.

The new non-food PGI: protection and momentum for Made in Italy footwear

From 1 December 2025, PGI registration will be possible for these non-food products. This new instrument, valid in all EU countries, will offer manufactured goods the same protection enjoyed by cheeses, wines and other typical foods, promoting local territories and products internationally.

Made in Italy and footwear

The Italian footwear industry is a flagship of Made in Italy. The sector employs over 73,000 people and exports 85% of its production, with an annual turnover of €14.6 billion. Italy remains by far the leading footwear manufacturer in the European Union (around 30% of the total) and is the undisputed world leader in high-end footwear. The ‘Made in Italy’ brand in the world of footwear is synonymous with quality and style, the result of a tradition of craftsmanship rooted in the country’s districts.

Protection from imitations

However, globalisation has exposed Italian footwear to imitations: poor-quality foreign products are passed off as Italian with misleading names or improper ‘Made in Italy’ labels. In this context, the PGI acts as a shield: it will be reserved for footwear linked to a specific territory and of certified quality. It will protect these products throughout the EU, providing a defence against counterfeiting. In addition to the more generic ‘made in’, the PGI certifies authenticity and requires that at least one stage of production takes place in the area of origin.

 

Export and marketing

In addition to providing protection, the PGI can enhance the value of Italian shoes on the market. The PGI will become a mark of quality for footwear, offering companies a new marketing tool. On foreign markets, certification will increase the visibility and credibility of Italian footwear and could facilitate access to public funding for local excellence.

 

Industry voices

The PGI reform has been welcomed by trade associations. The CNA notes that this tool, which has been awaited for years, will make it possible to protect Italian craftsmanship with a European mark, also protecting footwear from counterfeiting. In the Fermano district of the Marche region, local producers see the PGI as a driver for recovery: they note that in other sectors, geographical recognition has boosted sales and international reputation. In a sector emerging from a downturn (exports down 9.2% and turnover down 9.7% in 2024), the arrival of the PGI mark opens up prospects for the revival and defence of Made in Italy. The aim is to preserve the heritage and quality of our footwear, giving artisans official recognition to compete globally.