Arsutoria Studio

39th IILF: India’s leather industry accelerates, with new spaces and important agreements

There was a very positive and optimistic atmosphere at the 39th edition of the India International Leather Fair (IILF), which took place from 1 to 3 February 2026 in the newly constructed exhibition halls of the Chennai Trade Centre, in a larger space that allowed for a more comprehensive showcase of the best of the Indian leather and footwear industry, footwear components, synthetic materials, machinery, chemicals, equipment and technology. Across a total area of over 20,000 square metres, 362 Indian companies and 66 foreign firms were present, with Italy and Germany each having their own Country Pavilion. The IILF is, in fact, the flagship event of the Indian leather industry, a growing market that has traditionally been a major buyer of Italian machinery and technology. In addition to its strong commercial focus, the IILF also offers an excellent platform to demonstrate India’s export and investment potential in the leather and related sectors.  In this regard, we recall the signing on 27 January of a historic Free Trade Agreement (FTA) between India and the EU, the most comprehensive ever signed by both parties. “The agreement,” said Shri R. Selvam, Executive Director of CLE, “represents a major boon for India’s footwear and leather industry, as the EU is our main market, accounting for 43% of our exports. With 0% import duties in the EU for the footwear and leather sector, new opportunities will open up for our exporters, helping us achieve the export target of $14 billion by 2030. The agreement will strengthen cooperation between the two blocs, not only in terms of trade but also in terms of investment.”

It should be noted that during the trade fair, an agreement was also reached with the US to reduce tariffs from 25–50% to 18%.

The Make in India programme, launched in 2014 with the aim of turning the country into a global manufacturing hub, promoting significant growth in exports and rapid economic expansion, is also continuing. India offers significant tax incentives to attract foreign investment, particularly to the poorest regions, and already some Taiwanese groups have planned to open new factories in Tamil Nadu.

TFL: André Lanning steps down as CEO but joins the Board of Directors

TFL announced that CEO André Lanning has decided to leave the organization to pursue another professional opportunity.
Together with the Board of Directors, Mr. Lanning has agreed to a structured transition plan designed to ensure continuity and maintain TFL’s focus on growth and value creation. His last working day with the organization was March 10, 2026.
While Mr. Lanning will be leaving his CEO role with the company, he will join the TFL Board of Directors, which as mentioned will help with operational continuity, while also adding valuable knowledge and experience to TFL.
The company announces that the Board of Directors has been actively engaged in succession planning and is progressing toward appointing a new CEO who can continue to lead TFL’s long-term strategic direction.
In the meantime, Samer Al Jabi will assume the role of Interim CEO in addition to his current role as Chief Commercial Officer. Mr. Al Jabi joined TFL in 2025 and is contributing significantly to the company’s fiveyear strategic plan and global commercial excellence efforts. As interim CEO, he will ensure leadership continuity and advance TFL’s strategic priorities and longterm growth objectives.

Here is its tribute to the power and beauty of nature

Inspired by the concept of rewilding, the collection explores the connection between man and the environment, reinterpreting the textures, colours and shapes of the natural world with a contemporary and responsible approach.

Among the many ideas that have emerged, we focus on a few key highlights.

The brand, founded in 1963 by Karl and Birte Toosbuy, celebrates the 20th anniversary of ECCO RECEPTOR® technology in 2026 with the launch of the new RECEPTOR XP (Xtreme Performance): a trainer that incorporates elements from the outdoor world, reimagining 1990s styles for a modern and dynamic audience.

Pitti Uomo also served as the stage for an exclusive preview of the limited-edition ECCO.Kollektive collection. A project that represents the meeting point between craftsmanship, innovation and contemporary design, combining ECCO’s expertise in leather goods with the creative vision of international designers.

The collection, developed in collaboration with British designer Craig Green and Japanese brand White Mountaineering, embodies ECCO’s commitment to research and cutting-edge design.

For over fifty years, ECCO has combined Scandinavian design, technological innovation and master craftsmanship to create footwear and accessories that redefine the concept of comfort and quality.

With the Autumn-Winter 2026 collection, the brand renews its commitment to fashion that combines functionality, aesthetics and sustainability, looking to the future without ever forgetting its roots.


Pitti Uomo 109: Florence sets the pace

Pitti Uomo sets the pace. The 109th edition, held at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, once again delivered solid figures — around 12,500 buyers and nearly 19,000 visitors in total — at a time when the international market is treading on thin ice.

“A Pitti Uomo where a wonderful, dynamic atmosphere was felt, injecting positivity into the entire system,” said Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine. The 5,000 foreign buyers in attendance — up on 2024 — speak volumes about the positive atmosphere that prevailed.

The growing markets paint an interesting geographical picture: the UK, the US, Japan, Greece and Portugal are doing well. The Nordic bloc is performing very well — Sweden, Denmark, Norway and Finland are showing a marked increase. Chinese attendance remains steady, with a balance between Hong Kong and mainland China. And among the surprises, Lebanon, Egypt and the Middle East are back on the scene.

Italian buyers have fallen slightly, standing at around 7,500: a sign reflecting the well-known difficulties in domestic distribution. No drama, but a figure not to be ignored.

Among the 758 exhibitors — the real protagonists, according to Napoleone — research and innovation dominated the scene. At the Fortezza, the future was discussed with a down-to-earth approach: no slogans, just collections and direct engagement with the world’s most important buyers.

Pitti 109 demonstrates once again that, despite international tensions, those who invest in quality find partners.

ULU: where ice meets design

There are places in the world where choosing the wrong footwear is not a matter of style, but of survival. Among these are the circumpolar regions. It is precisely from these extreme landscapes that ULU was born, a brand that has chosen to bring to Pitti Uomo not just a new product, but a statement of intent: to redefine snow footwear without sacrificing a single ounce of aesthetics.

The concept is as simple as it is ambitious: to find the perfect balance between traction, comfort, waterproofing, breathability and compatibility with snow-trekking accessories. Five requirements that most brands have always treated as conflicting variables. ULU resolves them all in a single product.

The Vibram® Arctic Grip sole — developed specifically for low-temperature environments and wet, icy surfaces — guarantees traction where traditional soles fail. Completing the technical system: a rubber toe cap, 3M insulation integrated into the upper and a New Zealand wool lining that is warm, breathable and waterproof. There are also anti-slip grooves on the heel and a recyclable TPU slot for direct attachment to snowshoes.

Yet the real breakthrough is aesthetic. ULU breaks with the ‘functional but ugly’ mindset. The double-layer construction — an adjustable waterproof outer shell and a leather inner boot with a soft lining — results in a modern, refined silhouette, a far cry from the clunky look typical of technical winter footwear. A boot that can be worn in the mountains and in the city, without compromise.

Respect for nature is the narrative thread running through every design choice: carefully selected materials, rigorous processes, and real-world testing on snow and ice. Because certain environments tolerate no half-measures.


Piquadro at Pitti: when your bag thinks before you do

At the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, for Pitti Immagine Uomo 109, Piquadro presented the Fall/Winter 2026-27 season with a range aimed at building habits.

Modularity as a language. With PQLM, the front panels detach to become clutch bags; the components change function depending on the context. With SYNC, fingerprint security blends into the design: one touch, one access, no need to search for a key at the bottom of your bag at seven in the morning. With VICTOR, the induction charging integrated into the leather rucksacks keeps devices powered up even on the busiest days.

Material as identity. The Made in Italy Materia collection features a new leather, substantial yet surprisingly light, with clean lines and a removable front pocket that is almost a philosophical gesture: carry only what you need, nothing more.

Piquadro speaks of elevated function — and perhaps this is the most honest form of luxury that exists today.


Salle De Mode: where contemporary design meets in-house creativity

Founded in 2003 by designer Salome Amanatishvili and established as a global brand in 2009, Salle De Mode embodies the most authentic and creative spirit of Georgian fashion, standing out as a rare example in the contemporary landscape for a production philosophy based on total control of the supply chain. Every garment and accessory is, in fact, made entirely in-house, a commitment that guarantees high quality standards.

The brand’s portfolio offers a complete lifestyle range, spanning from clothing to accessories. Standing out at the heart of the collections are, in particular, the leather boots and bags: iconic pieces with a bold character, designed for a woman who makes no compromises between avant-garde style and traditional craftsmanship. The use of refined materials and internationally inspired design make every creation an investment destined to stand the test of time.


Leather, penny loops and a pin on the heel

Introducing the Gerard x Cuoio di Toscana capsule collection: a penny loafer, the timeless archetype of men’s footwear, reinterpreted with a contemporary sensibility that honours the roots of tradition. The collection is gender-neutral and comes in black and burgundy: colours that do not seek applause, but which enhance the depth and texture of Tuscan leather, allowing it to speak for itself without aesthetic embellishments.

The leather produced by Cuoio di Toscana is not just any material. It is the result of a slow vegetable tanning process, an ancient method that uses natural tannins extracted from chestnut, mimosa and quebracho wood. No chemical shortcuts, no industrial acceleration: just time, tradition and a mastery of the process that has made this district — between Santa Croce sull’Arno and San Miniato, in the province of Pisa — the global benchmark for sole leather. The consortium holds 95% of the Italian market share and over 80% of the European market share.

The customisation of the moccasin involves precise, highly meaningful elements. The penny, the model’s iconic symbol, becomes in this capsule collection a tangible sign of manufacturing heritage. But it is the new element introduced that captures the attention: a metal pin bearing the Cuoio di Toscana logo applied to the heel, designed to complement the iconic green sole that distinguishes the consortium’s products. A small detail, but far from insignificant: it is the visible signature of a supply chain, the mark of a certified origin. A symbol intended, in the consortium’s view, to define the identity of future Cuoio di Toscana-branded products.

In a market where traceability is increasingly in demand — and often merely promised — this pin tells a verifiable story, engraved into the product itself.

Venice as a philosophy of style: Aqua Alta

There is one city in the world that needs no adjectives. Venice describes itself: with its reflections on the water, the stone worn by the centuries, that understated elegance that never shouts but always makes itself felt. It is from this visual and cultural heritage that Aqua Alta is born, a sneaker brand that takes the name of the Venetian high tide as its aesthetic manifesto.

The choice is no accident. High water is not merely a meteorological phenomenon: it is a way of experiencing the city, of adapting gracefully to the unexpected. And it is precisely this balance — between fragility and resilience, between nature and architecture — that Aqua Alta translates into the design of its shoes.

The men’s and women’s collections follow a precise aesthetic: clean lines, essential forms, details crafted with the patience of a lagoon artisan. No decorative excess, no concessions to passing trends. Just what the brand calls ‘timeless elegance’ — a phrase that is certainly overused, but which here takes on a concrete and recognisable form.

Aqua Alta has chosen Pitti Uomo to introduce itself to the international market, positioning itself in the Futuro Maschile section.


Sayyou: when the shoe stops talking (and starts listening)

There is a specific gesture in the fashion world that has been repeated for decades: the shoe as a statement of intent. Like a manifesto. Like a label applied to the foot. Sayyou breaks this convention with an almost provocative simplicity.

The brand stems from an idea of subtraction, not addition. Away with symbols, away with lettering, away with the narrative weight that all too often transforms an object into a costume. What remains is a form that follows the body, materials chosen to last and perform, colours that signal moods without imposing them.

Material as philosophy. The choice of EVA is not technical, it is conceptual. A single versatile, lightweight material, suitable for different conditions: fewer components, less waste, greater consistency.

Collections as variations. Not seasons, not stylistic breaks: each line explores a different balance between comfort and presence, whilst maintaining a recognisable character. The same language, expressed in different tones. A young brand, with a clear vision.