While the footwear business is driven by the pace set by the global market, it is precisely this pace that Eleonora Ferracuti, Provincial Councillor of Fermo, was able to interpret when she launched the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) project to relaunch the Fermano-Maceratese footwear sector. This project is not just a gamble on the future, but a silent revolution that could redefine the boundaries of European manufacturing.

THE REGULATORY TURNING POINT

From 1st December 2025, it will be possible to apply for protected geographical indication registration in Italy for both artisanal and industrial products. No longer just Parmesan cheese and ham: now shoes, bags and other manufactured goods will also be able to boast the same recognition that has made Italian agri-food products famous throughout the world.

Who is responsible for this historic opening? The Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy, which acted as spokesperson in Europe for the enactment of EU Regulation 2023/2411 in November 2023. A diplomatic victory that opens up new scenarios for European craftsmanship.

THE CONSORTIUM THAT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

The Fermano-Maceratese Footwear Consortium was established in the province of Fermo in mid-November 2024, under the chairmanship of Germano Craia. Its headquarters? Monte Urano, not by chance: the beating heart of a district that has been setting the standard in Italian footwear production for decades.

The municipalities of Monte Urano, Porto Sant’Elpidio, Montegranaro, Fermo, Sant’Elpidio a Mare, Torre San Patrizio, Monte San Pietrangeli, Montecosaro, Civitanova Marche, Corridonia, Morrovalle and Monte San Giusto have already given their support. Such widespread support is no coincidence: when twelve municipalities unite for a common goal, it means that the idea has solid foundations.

THE ENGAGEMENT STRATEGY

“We want to engage young people and make them even more involved in a sector that characterises the area,” says Councillor Ferracuti. And she has done just that, with a competition for secondary school students to design the logo for the IGP Calzatura. The winner will receive a prize of €400.

This is not just local marketing. It is a strategic move that recognises an uncomfortable truth: without the involvement of the younger generation, even the most brilliant project risks remaining a dead letter. Many of the young people involved are the children of those who work in the footwear sector. The circle is complete, and tradition finds new life.

REGULATIONS: THE FINAL CHALLENGE

Now comes the moment of truth: defining the production regulations. “We have to define the processing stages to be included and much more. It will be a serious and in-depth discussion,” warns the president of the Province of Fermo, Ortenzi. A discussion that allows for no mistakes, because ‘once written, it cannot be changed’.

The crucial question: how many processing steps must be carried out in the territory to obtain the PGI mark? Is one enough (as provided for in the European text of the law) or must they all be carried out? The answer will determine the success or failure of the entire operation.

REAL INNOVATION

The initiative has received positive feedback from the main local associations, including Confindustria, Confartigianato, CNA, Claai, CGIL and UIL. Agreements such as this memorandum of understanding are fundamental: they join forces and bring together skills and resources.

The goal is ambitious but clear: “to be among the first to be recognised as European excellence in craftsmanship”. It is a race against time that could redefine not only the image of the Fermo-Macerata district, but the entire Italian manufacturing landscape.

The game is on. And this time, it is not just entrepreneurs who are playing: entire communities are betting on their industrial future.

From 1 December 2025, PGI registration will be possible for these non-food products. This new instrument, valid in all EU countries, will offer manufactured goods the same protection enjoyed by cheeses, wines and other typical foods, promoting local territories and products internationally.

Made in Italy and footwear

The Italian footwear industry is a flagship of Made in Italy. The sector employs over 73,000 people and exports 85% of its production, with an annual turnover of €14.6 billion. Italy remains by far the leading footwear manufacturer in the European Union (around 30% of the total) and is the undisputed world leader in high-end footwear. The ‘Made in Italy’ brand in the world of footwear is synonymous with quality and style, the result of a tradition of craftsmanship rooted in the country’s districts.

Protection from imitations

However, globalisation has exposed Italian footwear to imitations: poor-quality foreign products are passed off as Italian with misleading names or improper ‘Made in Italy’ labels. In this context, the PGI acts as a shield: it will be reserved for footwear linked to a specific territory and of certified quality. It will protect these products throughout the EU, providing a defence against counterfeiting. In addition to the more generic ‘made in’, the PGI certifies authenticity and requires that at least one stage of production takes place in the area of origin.

Export and marketing

In addition to providing protection, the PGI can enhance the value of Italian shoes on the market. The PGI will become a mark of quality for footwear, offering companies a new marketing tool. On foreign markets, certification will increase the visibility and credibility of Italian footwear and could facilitate access to public funding for local excellence.

Industry voices

The PGI reform has been welcomed by trade associations. The CNA notes that this tool, which has been awaited for years, will make it possible to protect Italian craftsmanship with a European mark, also protecting footwear from counterfeiting. In the Fermano district of the Marche region, local producers see the PGI as a driver for recovery: they note that in other sectors, geographical recognition has boosted sales and international reputation. In a sector emerging from a downturn (exports down 9.2% and turnover down 9.7% in 2024), the arrival of the PGI mark opens up prospects for the revival and defence of Made in Italy. The aim is to preserve the heritage and quality of our footwear, giving artisans official recognition to compete globally.

The Minister of Education and Merit, Giuseppe Valditara, visited Micam in Milan today, the international footwear exhibition now in its 100th edition, to reiterate the urgent need to invest in training young people and promoting technical and professional courses. Faced with the creations of 870 brands – 401 of which are Italian – the minister emphasised the importance of combining beauty, creativity and traditional craftsmanship as the pillars of Made in Italy, recalling the legacy of icons such as Giorgio Armani.

Valditara announced the launch of a guidance campaign aimed at students and families to promote the advantages of technical and vocational courses and ITS (Technical Higher Education Institutes), defined as a concrete gateway to the world of work. The minister pointed out that 1.5 billion euros have already been invested in ITS, and that there has been a significant increase in enrolment. He also reiterated that the Italian education system, thanks to the ‘4+2’ model, is considered innovative at an international level.

The ‘4+2’ model — four years of technical or vocational diploma, followed by two years at ITS Academies — has now become structural thanks to the recent school decree, which made it compulsory and formalised its orientation towards school and work training, a new term that replaces the previous acronym PCTO. According to Valditara, this approach strengthens the link between school, business and innovation, so much so that several countries are already considering importing it into their education systems.

In summary, at Micam in Milan, the minister relaunched the integration between education and business, innovation, support for professional training courses and the international projection of the Italian training model, confirming his conviction that the training of young people is the real engine that can sustain and renew the Made in Italy brand.

According to the report by the Federal Association of the German Footwear and Leather Goods Industry (HDS/L), in the first six months of 2025, sales by German footwear manufacturers rose from €1.15 billion to €1.16 billion compared to the same period last year, representing a 1.3% increase in turnover.

At €924 million, domestic sales rose by 5.1% compared to the first half of 2024, while foreign sales fell from €272 million to €242 million, corresponding to a decline of 11.0%. Footwear producer prices rose by 1.2% in the first half of 2025 compared to the first half of 2024.

In the first five months of 2025, 159.8 million pairs of shoes were exported from Germany, with a total value of €4.4 billion. Compared to the first half of 2024, this represents a 4.0% increase in the number of pairs exported. The value of footwear exports rose by 2.6%, from €4.3 billion to €4.4 billion. The average price of an exported shoe was €27.83 in the first five months of 2025.

Looking at footwear imports, from January to May 2025, these increased by 17.2% compared to the same period last year. In the first five months of 2025, 331.2 million pairs of shoes were imported into Germany. The value of imports rose from 4.7 to 5.6 billion euro, an increase of 18.8%. The average price of an imported shoe rose by 1.4%, from 16.77 to 17.01 euro.

Outlook

Despite the current instability and uncertainty and low consumer confidence in Germany, there are positive signs of change for the sector in the coming months, with fast-growing product segments such as barefoot shoes offering new opportunities for retailers and companies. In foreign trade, the political agreement on free trade between the EU and Indonesia will open up new market opportunities in the medium term and improve access to important supply and sales markets. Nevertheless, US customs policy and the new protectionist measures introduced by the Trump administration are hampering sales and significantly delaying the processing of deliveries.

Furthermore, geopolitical developments, such as those in the US market, as well as the ongoing war in Ukraine and conflicts in the Middle East, are creating a general climate of uncertainty and instability, with the footwear sector also being severely affected. However, foreign trade can provide a positive boost and, from a global perspective, urbanisation, rising disposable income and the expansion of digital retail trade offer new opportunities for the German footwear industry.