It will be the days of creativity, inspiration and a supply chain – that of fashion, luxury, design and manufacturers of leathers, fabrics, synthetics, accessories and components – confronting each other on style, the conjuncture and strategies to manage an economic moment that remains complex and undecipherable. After LINEAPELLE LONDON (Jan. 21) and LINEAPELLE NEW YORK (Jan. 29- 30), Lineapelle lands in Milan for edition number 105, hosting more than 1100 exhibitors and offering the usual, packed agenda of events. Watchword: My Head In The Clouds. Not an invitation to carelessness, but the title of the trends developed by the fair’s Fashion Committee for Spring-Summer 2026. A “way to recognize the positive qualities of an open and free mind, capable of going beyond limits.” Clouds “are the place of ReflAction, a crasi between the words Reflection and Action: they are the creative space, the privileged, safe place from which to observe our dizzying future.”
After the debut in February 2024, Lineapelle Interiors, an exhibition project that aims to highlight the innovative charge of tanneries and material manufacturers in the field of interior design, is back. Twenty installations will showcase never-before-seen creations resulting from the collaboration between 20 suppliers and 20 studios specializing in interior design.
New look also for the Lineapelle Designers Edition fashion shows: seven shows in three days that will bring a new idea of leather to the runway. Events that match the six daily presentations that will enliven Spazio Lineapelle, the showroom in Milan’s Piazza Tomasi di Lampedusa, from Feb. 25 to March 2.
Renewing its proposal for artisan involvement is In The Making, a leather goods workshop created by LINEAPELLE in collaboration with Giorgio Linea, where visitors – by reservation only – can try their hand at creating small fashion accessories, experiencing firsthand the sense and value of savoir-faire.
Like every year in February, the vitality of Friends For Leather, the art competition organized by UNIC – Italian Tanneries that involves more than 1,000 middle school students from Italian tanning districts, returns to LINEAPELLE. The theme of this edition is Circenses – Leather and Leather in Circus Games from Ancient Rome to Today.
The data processed for Assopellettieri by the Study Center of Confindustria Accessori Moda describe a still suffering 3rd quarter (-6.7% trend in foreign sales, with -28% to China) and estimate a year-end in which the absence of significant improvements in the economic trend in the final months could cause sector turnover to drop to about 12 billion euros, with the loss of more than 1 billion over 2023 (-8.4%).
A framework in which the easing of downturns in the second half of the year (for comparison with already unsatisfactory 2023 months) does not change the overall assessment of a year to be quickly filed away, marked by a noticeable slowdown in international trade that did not spared even luxury. The slowdown in demand following the post-Covid rebound, which was already evident during 2023 and has intensified sharply since the beginning of 2024, has led to a setback in manufacturing activity, with negative balances in the number of active companies (-107 from January to September) and employees (-1,307), along with a sharp increase in the number of hours of layoffs authorized in the leather sector (+139.4 percent).
Confirmation of this difficult scenario also comes from the ISTAT index of industrial production, which, net of calendar effects, shows in the first 9 months for the item “Travel and leather goods” a contraction in quantities realized of as much as -20.5 percent. Markedly unfavorable indications have affected every single month since the beginning of 2024, with the sole exception of August (+3.3%), which, however, was immediately followed in September by a further heavy retreat, in the order of -30%. Even in terms of turnover, the reports emerging from the usual sample survey conducted by the Confindustria Accessori Moda Study Center among Assopellettieri member companies show a slowdown in the comparison with 2023.
In the first nine months of 2024, the Italian footwear sector recorded declines in the main indicators. The declines in exports (-9.2% in value on January-September 2023) with the strong reduction in orders, had heavy repercussions on production activity (-18.9% Istat index of industrial production) and turnover (-9.7%). This is the snapshot taken by the report of the Confindustria Accessori Moda Study Center for Assocalzaturifici, which shows how, the effect of the post-Covid rebound having ended and after a 2023 of substantial stability (at least in value), 2024 closes with negative signs in all the main variables. Estimating a sectoral turnover that the first 12-month projections show slowing by -9.3 percent, to 13.2 billion euros (almost 1.4 billion less than the previous year) and with inevitable effects on business demographics and employment.
In detail, the report shows how, with reference to foreign demand, the trend is unfavorable for all product segments, with the sole exception of shoes with rubber uppers, whose exports grew by +8.2% in volume and +1.3% in value. On the other hand, shoes with leather uppers – which have always been characteristic of Italian production and cover 65 percent of foreign sales in value – recorded contractions of -7.1 percent in quantity and -8.2 percent in value.
“The reflective performance of many important international economies, in Europe and outside the EU borders, and a geopolitical context that is anything but favorable, which has seen the addition, in addition to the Russian-Ukrainian conflict, of another front of instability in the Middle East, have severely penalized footwear exports in 2024,” – commented Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici.
Looking at the markets, EU partners overall show less penalizing dynamics than those related to non-EU countries. Among the latter, positive signals only from China (+1.7 percent in value, with +19 percent in quantities), Hong Kong (+8.7 percent) and especially the United Arab Emirates (+26.3 percent), despite a moderate drop in pairs for both; and then Turkey, with increases over 10% in both volume and value.
Tuscany4Shoes was founded in 2021 with the aim of creating a network that enhances the manufacturing and craftsmanship excellence of Lucca’s footwear district. Today, the consortium involves 60 companies, representative of the entire production cycle: from suppliers of raw materials and accessories, to footwear manufacturers and companies specializing in services related to the supply chain and accessory makers. A diversified group that makes it possible to offer a full range of skills and solutions, in an area by history and vocation that has always been dedicated to the footwear sector.
What is the current market situation and outlook according to member companies?
Member companies perceive the current market as challenging, but also full of opportunities. On the one hand, the growing demand for sustainability and quality pushes companies to invest in innovation, and on the other, international competition and rising costs demand greater efficiency. Thanks to the reputation of “Made in Tuscany,” which has always been synonymous with reliability and quality, and also thanks to the support of the consortium, the outlook is positive: the focus on innovative materials, sustainable design and advanced technologies is already bringing new business opportunities both in Europe and in non-EU markets, such as the United States and Asia.
Tuscany4Shoes has set sustainability and innovation as its main goals: how are you working towards this?
Sustainability and innovation are at the core of Tuscany4Shoes’ strategy. Some of the main initiatives include:
– Digitization of the supply chain: the consortium supports companies in implementing advanced technologies, such as the “Shoes-ID” system to improve traceability and efficiency.
– Sustainable materials research: we are promoting the adoption of environmentally friendly, recycled and biodegradable materials through collaborations with research centers and specialized suppliers.
– Production efficiency: we have initiated programs to optimize production processes, reducing energy waste and emissions.
– Training: we organize courses for entrepreneurs and workers in the industry, focusing on innovation, sustainability and new market trends.
To date, what benefits have member companies been able to have as a result of Tuscany4Shoes?
The benefits are many:
– Actions to approach international buyers thanks to B2B events organized directly to encourage meetings with buyers and new business partners.
– Visibility and reputation: the consortium represents a guarantee of quality and reliability, enhancing the “Made in Tuscany” brand on a global scale.
– Internal synergies: collaboration between companies has generated economies of scale and joint projects, improving overall competitiveness.
– Innovation and sustainable growth: through research and training projects, many companies have been able to introduce innovations that have improved products and processes, aligning with the new sustainability standards required by the market.
– Internationalization paths and participation in calls for proposals to promote the Tuscan footwear brand internationally and support companies’ development strategies.
Confindustria Accessori Moda, the federation representing the associations of the main sectors of the Italian leather supply chain, participated in the launch event of the Days of Italian Fashion in the World, which took place on January 28 at the prestigious Villa Madama, in Rome, under the chairmanship of Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation Antonio Tajani. During the event, the presidents of the main trade associations signed a Memorandum of Understanding aimed at promoting Italian fashion in the world. The event was also an important opportunity to discuss strategies and priorities for the internationalization of the fashion industry, with a particular focus on the fight against counterfeiting, which is crucial for the future of the sector.
Giovanna Ceolini, President of Confindustria Accessori Moda, pointed out that “the purchase of fake goods involves about a quarter of Italian families, with clothing, accessories and footwear among the most counterfeited products. Counterfeiting harms the economy, Made in Italy businesses and feeds the parallel market based on labor exploitation and tax avoidance. It is essential to promote a culture of authenticity, especially among young people: schools, dialogue on the environment and the web are key tools to raise awareness, while trade associations must explain the importance of intellectual property and innovation to combat counterfeiting.”
Also presented was the new format Italian Fashion Days in the World, which will see the involvement of Italian Embassies, Consulates, ICE Offices and Cultural Institutes abroad to promote the excellence of Made in Italy.
The protocol, signed by Confindustria Accessori Moda, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Associazione Nazionale Fabbricanti Articoli Ottici – ANFAO, Confartigianato Moda, Confartigianato Orafi, CNA Federmoda, CNA Orafi, FEDERORAFI, Confindustria Moda – Federazione Tessile e Moda, and Uniontessile Confapi establishes close cooperation between the government and trade associations to support Italian fashion in eleven embassies, selected in strategic countries for the country’s exports.
Giovanna Ceolini – Presidente di Confindustria Accessori Moda
In August 2015, Birkenstock sued Rafting Goldstar, an Italian family business, in the Milan court for counterfeiting one of its trademarks: the tread design of the sole of their sandals.
In September 2018, the European Court of Justice declared the trademark devoid of distinction, but Birkenstock, not content, continued the lawsuits at the national level.
Since then, several courts have ruled in favor of the Italian company: in March 2018, the Benelux court and in May 2024, the German Federal Court of Justice confirmed the decision of the European Court.
Confirmation also came in January 2025 from the Paris Court of Appeal, which also declared the attempt to register the sole design as a trademark null and void, once again ruling in favor of Rafting Goldstar.
We are now awaiting the judgment of the Italian Second Instance Court.
Industrie Chimiche Forestali S.p.A. (“ICF”) – one of the leading operators at national and international level in the design, production and marketing of adhesives and fabrics with high technological content, listed on the Euronext Growth Milan market of Borsa Italiana – and Geomatrix Srl, a startup based in the Bolzano technology park, active in the creation of compounds synergistic with the circular economy – announce the results of the collaboration born in 2024 for the development of new sustainable materials.
Thanks to the new “Xi” compound based on wood waste patented by Geomatrix R&D and the experiments of the ICF R&D department, it was possible to develop a new line of materials that respond to the principles of circular economy.
In addition to responding to the management strategies of research into increasingly sustainable raw materials, laboratory tests carried out on the first industrial production have also highlighted excellent results in the technical parameters and the first applications, carried out with some important market-leading customers, will see the use in sports footwear, which require compliance with high performance in terms of resistance, elasticity, lightness, comfort and durability.
“This important collaboration – says Filippo Gallizia co-founder of Geomatrix – demonstrates the great development potential of the Xi Patent in innovative products characterized by a high sustainability value.
There is therefore a new alternative to plastics or bioplastics in a circular economy perspective, without technical compromises or strong price markups.”
“The Forestali Research and Development Team – as indicated by Guido Cami, CEO of ICF – has successfully developed a line of extruded composite materials for the reinforcement of footwear, achieving the ambitious goals of an important Italian sports company. The partnership has led to results that exceed expectations; we now have a new sustainable raw material with numerous other potential uses. An innovative product line that combines the natural strength of wood with the flexibility of fabrics. We are excited about this partnership with Geomatrix and always looking for projects that support the circularity of the economy”.
The birth of the new technology hub, the result of the synergy between the Elachem® Group and Main Group Technologies, represents a turning point for the footwear industry, with a particular focus on the safety boot segment.
Thanks to this collaboration, companies specialising in the production of footwear with polyurethane systems can count on advanced tools and skills to optimise materials and production processes, guaranteeing innovative and customised solutions.
CUSTOMISED MATERIALS FOR EXCELLENT PERFORMANCE
A distinctive aspect of this partnership is the ability of the Elachem® Group’s research and development laboratory to work directly with safety boot manufacturers to study and create specific polyurethane system formulations. These materials are designed to meet the intensive use requirements typical of the professional sector, improving fundamental aspects such as strength, lightness and elasticity.
Advanced laboratory technology also allows the materials to undergo rigorous testing, ensuring maximum performance in terms of durability, comfort and safety. This approach allows manufacturers to benefit from continuous technical support, capable of transforming their needs into concrete solutions adapted to each specific use.
INNOVATION IN MANUFACTURING PROCESSES
In addition to excellence in materials, the technology hub offers access to state-of-the-art machinery developed by Main Group Technologies. These tools make it possible to optimise production processes, improve efficiency and ensure greater precision.
INTEGRATED SOLUTIONS FOR CUSTOMERS
The new technology hub stands out for its ability to act as a one-stop shop, accompanying manufacturers at every stage of the production process, from design to finished product. The integration of materials research, technological development and customised assistance offers an operational model that simplifies processes, reduces development time and improves the competitiveness of the end product.
This ensures a customer-centred approach, acting as a reference point for the entire footwear industry supply chain, with the ambition of leading the sector towards a more sustainable, efficient and customer-oriented future.
A NEW FRONTIER FOR THE WORK BOOT INDUSTRY
The collaboration between the Elachem® Group and Main Group Technologies marks a new phase for the professional footwear industry. By combining advanced skills and strategic vision, the technology cluster not only allows for the improvement of the finished product but also creates added value for the entire industrial chain.
“Our goal is to enable manufacturers to reach new standards of excellence, offering them tools and knowledge to meet the challenges of the future”, say the representatives of the two companies.
From Sneaknit an innovative technology that revolutionises the way people wear shoes. Designed for those who live hectic lives or who have difficulty moving, this solution offers a unique experience, combining comfort and practicality like never before.
With ‘Easy Wear’, the tongue is integrated directly into the upper, eliminating the need to unfasten or tie laces. Thanks to this structure, slipping the shoes on becomes a simple and immediate gesture, without the need to bend over or use a shoehorn.
But that’s not all: this unique technology not only facilitates the fit, but also keeps the foot stable and comfortable, ensuring optimal support all day long. It is a perfect solution for those looking for practicality without sacrificing comfort and design.
Framas is a leading supplier of soles in the footwear industry. They are known to be the partners of the athletic powerhouses. During the Desma House Fair the Framas team was presenting different R&D projects, among those a shoe developed in collaboration with Desma to show the results that can be achieved combining different technologies.
We have met René Medel who is Senior Digital Creation Engineer at Framas for a conversation about the project Framas has presented during the last Desma House Fair.
First of all, can you explain how the shoe has been made?
“This shoe has been developed leveraging the expertise of different partners. We did a collaborative creation process among the group and then in the making: our team in Korea has created the two 3D printed parts using the SLS (*) technology. The first part is a rigid shank that has been co-molded with the TPU outsole and the second part is a heel support, made with a lattice structure, that has been co-molded with the LTPU midsole. For both parts a TPE (**) material (powder for SLS) has been used.
The outsole was made using a traditional TPU injection process at our factory in Vietnam while the midsole was manufactured using the SmartliteO LTPU material from Huntsman. The LTPU is an innovative liquid TPU that can be casted and foamed while maintaining the thermoplastic properties since it does not cure as the traditional PU does. The sole unit was then sent to Desma in Germany for direct soling to the upper using PU.
Overall, the project took almost two months to be completed since – due to its innovative nature – we had to experiment different technical solutions to industrialize the construction. One good example is the construction of the mold needed to keep the 3D printed heel support in the exact position when casting the LTPU. We had to change to geometry of the 3D printed part many times before getting to the final solution of having four pins in the mold connected to the lattice structure of the 3D printed part.”
What was the objective of this project?
“This development moves from the idea that combining the different technologies can open doors to a strep ahead in performances and customization. First of all, we are working to use addictive manufacturing (AM) in real production, not just for prototyping. These parts have been made using SLS technology, but we are also testing resins and extrusion of filaments and pellets. The 3D printed parts are not intended only to save weights in some areas of the sole. They really can add specific properties to the sole. Let’s make an example: the midsole is typically made with a foaming material. Depending on the material we can achieve different results in terms of weight, compression set, rebound etc. But if we add a 3D printed part in the midsole, we can change these performance parameters using not only different 3D printable materials but also designing different geometries. This first project had a 3D insert with the foam all around it, but we can also combine 3d printed shapes with casted foams in different ways: we are testing the 3D print of an entire skeleton and then let the foam penetrate the 3D structure and fill it. The objective is to bring the performances to a different level. It’s the same idea as adding a carbon plate to the midsole. Carbon is another technology that we are testing since carbon plates can also be 3d printed. Depending on the kind of material that you add to the insole you can obtain stiffness or rebound or cushioning.”
Can you give an idea of what is coming next?
“The project had the objective to manufacture a sole unit with the 3D inserts and I can tell that a product like this can be brought to the market because we have fully industrialized the entire process. But we can go further in different directions. Today we can create the entire shoe, as our customers are already doing, offering a combination of traditional manufacturing processes (injection and casting) with 3d printing.
In terms of sustainability, this project presented at the Desma House Fair has a strong impact because the unit even though it has different parts, it is in the reality a mono-material, since the chemical nature of all these materials is similar, and it can be upcycled.
We are also testing other materials such as those of Balena that are bio-compostable materials. These materials today are 3d printable and injectable, but we are also looking at ways to foam them. Maybe combined with injected parts and 3d printed parts that are all compostable. In such a case the objective is to downcycle the unit: bury it and let it compost at the end of the cycle, hopefully in an industrial way.”
Footnote (*) SLS stands for Selective Laser Sintering, a widely used additive manufacturing (3D printing) technique. It involves using a high-powered laser to fuse powdered material layer by layer, creating a solid object.
Footnote (**) TPE is a broader category of materials that behave like rubber but can be processed like plastics while TPU is a specialized type of TPE with superior strength, durability, and chemical resistance.
