Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Magazine

Birkenstock expands its closed shoe offering

Rooted in functionality and timeless design, Birkenstock’s closed shoe collection reaffirms the brand’s commitment to natural walking. Honouring the evolution of Birkenstock’s centuries of footwear expertise, built on the orthopaedic principles of the legendary footbed, the shoe collection offers precisely engineered support to the wearer.

Born from a blend of traditional craftsmanship and innovation, this shoe collection is made from premium materials and designed to perform in everyday environments and beyond. The brand’s footwear line is under the footbed-first philosophy, and combines biomechanics, care in design and premium materials to create truly high-performance shoes. The taupe colour in which the shoes are available reflects a solid and timeless aesthetic.

The collection’s flagship models, Highwood Low Lace and Utti, are built around the Deep Blue Footbed, while the Birkenstock Bend Decon and Pasadena feature the original cork and latex footbed for lightweight flexibility. The multi-layered structure of the Deep Blue Footbed helps reduce tension, supports stability and allows natural walking motion, making the shoes perfect for all-day wear. The anatomical transverse arch supports the midfoot, providing stability and relieving pressure on the sole. The medial longitudinal arch supports the inner arch of the foot and prevents it from sagging, while the lateral longitudinal arch supports the outer arch for improved stability of the foot from heel to midfoot. Finally, the deep heel cup provides stability, support and better balance with every step.


The first monographic homage exhibition to Cristóbal Balenciaga in Italy

MICAM and Milano Moda Donna in February 2025 were the occasion to celebrate the 130th anniversary of the birth of the great Spanish couturier at Palazzo Morando in Milan.

«A couturier must be an architect for form, a painter for colour, a musician for harmony and a philosopher for measure». In the words of Cristóbal Balenciaga himself, we find the essence of his creativity and of what can rightly be called art. Art of constructing a dress by combining all these elements. An art that has allowed Balenciaga’s creativity to be a timeless benchmark. A continuous inspiration.

From a dialogue between Cristóbal Balenciaga’s DNA and the contemporary creativity of the Spanish footwear industry, the project of the Milan exhibition “CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA | Shoes from Spain Tribute”, of which he is organiser and curator, was born in the mind and will of Javier Echeverría Sola.

The project is promoted by the Federation of Spanish Footwear Industries (FICE) and, in particular, its president Rosana Perán, who is also president of the European Footwear Confederation (CEC) and vice-president of the Pikolinos group.

«This exhibition is a dialogue between the values of creativity, quality, excellence, know-how and innovation that defined the Haute Couture ateliers of master Cristóbal Balenciaga. Values that are still alive today in the craftsmanship of our shoe companies – as we like to say, travelling from tradition to innovation», says Rosana Perán.


Cristóbal Balenciaga is known for his revolutionary approach to the female silhouette. With this in mind, FICE decided to create an exhibition that would bring together two realities of Spanish DNA – the myth of the great couturier and the most brilliant exponents of the Spanish footwear industry today. The exhibition was therefore the bridge to present the tradition of Marca España in Milan, the prestigious world fashion capital and symbol of Made in Italy.

Twenty-five models by Cristóbal Balenciaga were presented, in an unprecedented exhibition, from museum and private collections. These were matched with a series of shoes, made by an equal number of Spanish brands, carefully selected by a professional jury. Exemplary in this context was the archive material, which included newspapers and photographs from the couturier’s decades of activity.

The shoes, made exclusively for this event, were produced by 25 Spanish companies, which are part of the more than 400 companies represented by the Federation of Spanish Footwear Industries (FICE), which brings together around 90% of the national footwear production: Alhamas, Alohas, Casteller, Chie Mihara, Creaciones S. W., De Flores Y Floreros, Flabelus, Gaimo, Hispanitas, Kanna, Lottusse, Magnanni, Magrit, Martinelli, Mascaró, Pedro Garcia, Pedro Miralles, Pertini, Pikolinos, Pitillos, Pons Quintana, Pretty Ballerinas, Ras, Ria Menorca and Zinda.


Acquasparta, the rebirth of luxury sneakers made in Italy

Elena Mercantini

Acquasparta is the result of careful research by Elena Mercantini, the brand’s soul and CEO. Her economic and financial background and love for the fashion world led her to acquire the historic D’Acquasparta brand, one of the first companies to have made trainers in Italy and from which the new Acquasparta was born, revised in a modern key by a team of designers who have created models with a lighter and trendier taste, while still respecting the roots, philosophy and values of the past linked to the brand’s historicity. Made by a cutting-edge company in the heart of the Marche region, Acquasparta footwear proposes a new style that exalts the most authentic Italian craftsmanship tradition in support of the territory, promoting Made in Italy in total respect for the environment.

The first new line of trainers, symbolically called La Fenice (The Phoenix), proposes a collection of super-exclusive sneakers, almost unique pieces, witnesses of a new contemporary glamour and whispered luxury, without excesses, designed for those who love to stand out with elegance and refinement. Just one model, in many declinations of colours, combinations and materials. The most representative shoe in the collection is the Fenice 621 The Icon: made of white calfskin with contrasts in suede in Acquasparta burgundy and natural cowhide, and rich in precious details, all again in Acquasparta burgundy.


Fashion: against the crisis, politics must play its part

‘The time has come for politics to give the right answers to the fashion sector. The right answers to our artisans for what they do with their hands, their head, their heart. And for what they create, the pride of Made in Italy all over the world,’ said CNA national president Dario Costantini speaking at the “Dialogue on the fashion sector” held in Rome in the CNA auditorium on 12 March. Costantini emphasised the specific weight of artisans and small businesses in the country’s system and highlighted their role in innovation as well, pointing out, for example, that one third of small businesses use artificial intelligence. Unfortunately, the laws are not adapted to the changing reality and the framework law on craftsmanship dates back over forty years.

The national president of the CNA then highlighted the energy problem: ‘We do not like the energy decree,’ he reiterated, ‘which excludes more than one million companies from the bill cuts because they have an installed power of less than 16.5kW. Businesses that already find themselves paying many tens of points more for energy than their European competitors’. And we do not like ‘that camouflaged tax represented by insurance contracts covering damage to property directly caused by natural disasters and catastrophic events. Not only does this measure in several cases fail to protect against the consequences of disasters, but in one month it requires almost four million companies to take out particularly complex policies, with respect to which operating procedures were only provided at the end of February’.

The two-year period 2023/2024 was very tough for the fashion industry, which lost 9.7% added value against -1.9% for the manufacturing sector and reduced its workforce by 3%. The bad patch has actually been going on since well before that, it burst more than fifteen years ago, at the time of the financial bubble.

It is difficult to make predictions at such a complex time from a geopolitical and economic point of view. Certainly, to try to imagine a desirable future for the sector, one must take into account certain negative elements. Fashion is a labour-intensive sector (and therefore with low margins), it suffers from a high presence of irregular activities, it is faced with the progressive ageing of the Italian population which weakens the domestic market. But there are also some strengths of the sector on which to build. The appreciation for Italian professionalism is global, especially for the high end and higher added value. The duties announced by the US are frightening, but on the other hand, exports to other important areas of the world, from Asia to the Gulf countries, are growing.

‘Italian fashion has a future and continuity,’ said the president of CNA Federmoda, Marco Landi, ‘we remain Europe’s manufacturing industry in terms of quality production, we must preserve this heritage. Italian companies can continue to be protagonists on international markets. To do so, they must be put in a position to invest. We therefore call for an industrial policy that allows this. Today we also need support on the liquidity front, so we call for measures for a credit policy to support the Italian fashion system’.

ASSOMAC Around the World: Italian technological excellence goes round the globe

Assomac renews its commitment to promoting Italian leather, footwear and leather goods processing technology on international markets through the ‘Assomac Around the World’ programme. The initiative, dedicated to strengthening the internationalisation process of companies in the sector, joins the promotional strategy and activities implemented by the ITA Agency, communicating the value of the Italian sector in the main world markets. In the first half of 2025, the Confindustria association will be present at the most important trade fairs, offering member companies the opportunity to present their technologies and develop new collaborations

After the first appointment at the India International Leather Fair (IILF) in Chennai, held from 1 to 3 February, the tour continued in Milan, where Lineapelle, a reference event for the global leather and fashion industry, was held until 27 February. March was then the turn of the APLF in Hong Kong (12-14 March), followed by the Mega Leather Show in Pakistan (11-13 April).

 India emerges as a strategic market, with a 17 billion euros leather sector and Italian machinery exports growing by 42.15%, while in Hong Kong, Italy confirms its leadership in the supply of components for tanning machinery and in Pakistan the Mega Leather Show offers new opportunities in a rapidly evolving $874 million market.

Assomac at IILF
Assomac at Lineapelle
Italian companies at APLF


ANPIC and the MUSA Design Fest

ANPIC – one of the most important international trade fairs for the leather, footwear and leather goods industry and with over 45 years of experience – marked a milestone in its evolution by putting design and fashion at the centre of its spring-summer 2025 edition with the MUSA Design Fest.

Fernando Padilla Padilla, president of APIMEX, emphasised the importance of this transformation, highlighting that ANPIC no longer seeks just to stay in the market, but to lead it, set new trends and project Mexico as a leader in global innovation. ‘The offer is driving the trends. Our exhibitors are the true agents of change, who through materials such as leather, fabrics, synthetics, laces, buckles, hats and more, define the identity of the manufacturers,’ said Padilla Padilla.

The addition of the MUSA Design Fest aims to connect suppliers, designers and creatives, creating a unique space for collaboration, innovation and original product development and involves over 60 selected companies from sectors such as leather goods, footwear, hats, textiles, leather, furniture, interior design and technology.

A key element of MUSA Design Fest is the focus on trends for spring-summer 2026, enabling participants to anticipate, design and plan their business strategies. This trend preview will help designers and manufacturers stay ahead of the curve, aligning their products with what will shape the future of the industry.

The event will also feature lectures and insights on key topics such as the power of the digital community for brand positioning (Ale Vintage), new trends for spring-summer 2026 (Erick Pérez Sandi) and the sustainable future of leather in fashion (Karina Díaz, director of Mercedes Fashion Week Costa Rica).

In addition to showcasing products, ANPIC 2025 will focus on generating synergies between all players in the value chain. From designers to suppliers to manufacturers, everyone will have the opportunity to interact in an environment that promotes innovation and collaboration.

The event will not only provide a platform for product presentations, but also an opportunity for participants to receive direct feedback and establish new business relationships that will strengthen the presence of Mexican industry internationally.


White Milano: the internationalization of ‘new luxury’

In the just-concluded February 2025 edition, the show gave space to a selection of 300 brands that WHITE defines as new luxury (in the proportion of 55 percent from Italy and 45 percent from abroad), also from emerging markets, demonstrating how the event is increasingly the global benchmark for innovation, creativity and elegance in curating fittings. On the visitor front, the benchmark event for women’s boutique fashion welcomed a 7 percent increase in foreign buyers thanks to intense and targeted promotional work in international markets, while the domestic market was affected by the industry’s difficulties and recorded a 12 percent drop. In particular, White’s ambassadors in the world are the Gulf and Middle East countries, South Korea, Japan, South America, Canada, Northern Europe, DATCH Area, Benelux, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Vietnam, Thailand, Kazakhstan, Armenia, Poland, Bulgaria, Czech Republic, Turkey and Africa.

The initiatives concretized through the CIRCLE project, in partnership with Monica Sarti, have been highly appreciated: a wide-ranging vision of the future that saw its beginnings with the signing of the MoU with Retail Leader Circle, a point of reference in the Gulf and Middle East countries. Thanks to the launch of this project, WHITE will have a permanent presence in Riyadh with the AlMalki Group for brand selection at WESTERLY, opening 3 stores in the Yacht Club in Jeddah, two pop-ups with events from October to December at Ether in Abu Dhabi and Wild Fabrik in Dubai, and last but not least a pop-up at 51East in Doha to be opened also by year-end 2025.

WHITE, thanks to its many international initiatives, thus represents an authentic intercontinental crossroads where buyers, designers, media and industry professionals meet to chart the new routes of contemporary fashion.

As for the brands that have captured the interest of the media, there are the protagonists of the Secret Rooms: five international designers-YID’PHROGMA (China), MAZ Manuela ALVAREZ (Colombia), CAROLXOTT (Estonia), OH CARLA (Italy) and RENÈ (Denmark).

Thanks to the alliance with Confartigianato, we also report the participation of 24 selected companies with entirely Made in Italy artisan DNA: BLUI, DLB, DOUUOD, MA’RY’YA, MAURIZIO MASSIMINO, PINTORIE, PS DON’T FORGET ME, SCAGLIONE, SHE’S SO, 12PM, ARRON, FRANCESCA BIANCHI DESIGN, FORNARI, LABELLE, LE DAF, MONTE SPORT, PASSION BLANCHE, REPTILE’S HOUESE, SALCE 197, SHOTO, SILVIA GNECCHI, VIPERA, VIVYINROSA and RELEASE DISTRIBUTION.

A number of foreign designers presented new additions to their collections representing their country’s creativity: from Spain, thanks to ICEX España Exportación e Inversiones, an organization that supports Spanish companies in the internationalization of their business, participated 814 EZCARAY, ASPRÓN STUDIO, AUGUSTA, CUSTO BARCELONA, FLABELUS, HENRY HARROWAY, NKN NEKANE, SKATÏE, SKFK, SSSTUFFF, SURKANA, THE EXTREME COLLECTION and YERSE. From Armenia, on the other hand, comes the shortlist of creatives presented by the Fashion & Garment Chamber of Armenia, with co-financing from the Private Sector Development and TVET South Caucasus Program and support from GIZ Armenia on behalf of the German government: ACHE BCN, ANKASA, BOYAKHCHYAN, TAT MNOYAN, MADE_VEL_E, MOMENTS OF WHITE, NIKOLYAN, SHABEEG, THE WORKSHOP YEREVAN and Z.G.EST.

The next event is set for June 21-23 with the 2026 summer collections.


Enterprise Japan: urban dynamism and upcycling event

Enterprise Japan, a brand of trainers Made in Marche with strong ties to Japanese culture, introduced the first day of the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo with the performance-event Upcycling, The performance of Authenticity.

At the Teatro Niccolini in Florence, the city’s oldest theatre, a true spectacle of the brand’s manufacturing culture was staged, including live performances and video installations. The team of artisans from the Marche headquarters of the Eli Group – a production pole of excellence in the sector, capable of guaranteeing a 100% Made in Italy supply chain, to which the brand is headed – lent itself to an evening in which Leonardo Conti’s direction and Luca Pedrini’s DJ set gave life to a performance in which the public also interacted with the 17th-century spaces of the theatre.

Inspired by the ancient Japanese rural technique of Boro Sashiko, where recycled fabrics were used to mend worn-out kimonos, Enterprise Japan presented a limited edition capsule that assembles remnants of Furoshiki fabrics – drawn pieces of cotton, traditionally used for carrying objects – with Olona canvas or denim finishes to “dress” the core model of the upcoming FW 25-26 collection: EJ JUPITER ROCKET.


The flavour of the autumn-winter 2025 collection by Enterprise Japan redefines the concept of contemporaneity, revolutionising the iconic shapes that have codified urban style and rekindled the most classic outfits, presenting the three flagship models: Egg, Run and Jupiter. The trainer, which has always been a symbol of energy and movement, here wants to slow down the pace, guided by the awareness that excellence comes not only from skill, but also from time and care.


Pollini P-Ride

Technology, quality and comfort define the three models in this collection inspired by trail running footwear, with an ultralight, cushioned sole made of EVA and a tread with special grip, designed to ensure traction, flexibility and durability. Each model in the P-Ride capsule is numbered and offered in three colorways – white, black, teal – embellished with thermo-adhesive graphic motifs and contrasting orange grosgrain details. The Pollini P-Ride capsule will be available at Pollini boutiques, on the official pollini.com e-store, and in an exclusive selection of Italian and international multi-brand retailers.


The luxury comfort of Pantofola D’Oro

For next winter, we find in the collection a reinterpretation of the classic Penalty model, which retains the original design enriched with a leather upper and suede inserts and featuring the three-star logo, embossed in relief. The model features a contrasting color scheme and a light rubber sole, making it versatile and perfect for any everyday occasion. Also new is Terrace 2.0, inspired by 1980s terrace-wear, combining heritage with a minimalist, international aesthetic. The upper, made of leather and suede with hand-padded details, features a hot-stamped three-star logo. The flexible sole and longline shape make it ideal for contemporary, comfortable style.

Penalty
Terrace
Terrace