Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Studio

Lights but especially shadows for the tannery and accessories global

Tanning sector trend

The first part of 2025 closes with the confirmation of a slight overall increase (+1%) in the slaughter volumes of adult cattle in the monitored areas (EU, Americas, Oceania). The specific variation of the European area (-3%) is always negative, with rare exceptions at the level of individual countries (positive sign only in Ireland and Poland). Outside Europe, there is a contraction in the USA and a contraction in the USA and New Zealand, while Brazil and Australia show a positive trend (stable in Argentina).

A decidedly negative half-year for the slaughter of calves (-10% compared to 2024) at global level. Europe shows an overall decrease in line with the general variation and negative data in all major producer countries. The US appears to be in free fall, and only the ocean countries are showing positive trends.

The overall picture of sheep slaughtering is down by 5% in the first half of 2025, with some recovery trend in the European Union, but the general figure remains down (-5%) and all major producer countries show declines (double digit in France). Only positive sign in the UK and USA, negative sign in Australia and New Zealand.

Although there are still differentiated trends in the leather results of the main producer countries in the first half of the year, in general a negative sign continues to prevail and uncertainty does not seem to slow down. The average trend is slightly less suffering for small skins (bovine and ovine aprons) than for medium-large cows. Although the overall picture for the six-month period remains varied, ovicaprines recorded interesting quarterly increases in Italy, France and India.


Accessories and components sector

In the first half of 2025, compared to the same period of 2024, the six-month trend for accessories and components appears rather gloomy: the fall in Italian and German exports plunges the EU average (-5%), with all major EU producers falling outside of Romania. All sectors of the industry suffer, without exception.

In the second half of 2025, the difficulties of the sector persist, with the European average falling by 6% compared to 2024. Widespread and generalized losses are reported in all sectors of the sector, with no major exceptions.

Textiles and synthetics

In the first half of 2025 compared to the same period of 2024 we find a reality made of lights and shadows. The slowdown of major European producers is a negative factor, despite the resilience of Italians and Portuguese. The trend of the segments reflects the overall performance, where declines in synthetic fibre fabrics are accompanied by a stagnant synthetic result.    Well, instead, the regenerated leather fibers, which appears to be on the rise.

Regarding the second semester, there is opacity for the sector despite the reduction of losses in Germany and Spain which, after the disappointing results of the first quarter of 2025, are confirmed to decline also in the second quarter of the year. Uneven the picture by compartments: good the trend of regenerated, discrete performance of synthetic, bad the fabrics of synthetic and artificial fibers.

Footwear sector

The half-yearly comparison shows mixed results for European footwear (-3%). The French and Italians are in trouble, while the Spaniards limit the damage. Difficulties for Turkey. Stable results for China and Mexico. New dynamism for the Brazilians. Rise for India and Vietnam.

The result of the EU footwear sector in the second quarter of the year is coloured red, with declines becoming more marked and widespread. Beyond the borders of Europe, Turkey and China are also suffering. Flat the trend of Brazilians and Mexicans.   Rise for Vietnam and India.

Leather goods sector

In the first half of 2025 compared to 2024, the cumulative partial confirms the signals from previous quarters, with all major EU producers of leather goods in deep red and even double-digit declines for Italians. Positive signs, however, for Turkish leather goods, which appears to be expanding, and Indian. Uncertainty for China and Pakistan, the latter in negative stability.

There is no peace in EU leather goods, which closes the second quarter of the year down 6% on the same period of 2024 and with heavy declines widespread in all major European countries. The extra-EU picture is also weak, with the exceptions of Turkey (+7%) and India (stable).

Stahl drops sale of wet end division and creates MUNO brand

Change of course for Stahl. A year ago, it announced the sale of its wet end Division to European investment fund Syntagma Capital, now announces that it is renouncing the agreement and intends to proceed independently with the separation of its leather-related activities.

The decision is linked to the current negative market conditions, which have made the terms of sale less favorable for Stahl, which has therefore chosen to withdraw from the agreement.

Xavier Rafols

The new plan is for Stahl’s wet end Division to become a completely independent company operating under a new brand name, Muno. It will be led by CEO Xavier Rafols, currently head of Stahl’s Leather Chemicals group, who will lead the team of leather industry experts in continuing to support customers worldwide with innovative solutions.

The spin-off is expected to be completed in the coming months, after which both companies will operate as completely independent entities.

By separating the businesses, Stahl intends to double its efforts on coatings for fast-growing sectors such as high-performance materials and packaging. At the same time, it offers Muno a fresh start as an independent company in the leather processing chemicals sector.

 

ISPO changes dates and moves to Amsterdam in 2026

The global reference event for sportswear and outdoor activities is focusing on a total revamp starting in the new year, with a new venue, the RAI exhibition centre in Amsterdam, replacing the traditional location in Munich, a four-week advance on the calendar, and a new concept.

The partners have announced an investment programme worth €3 million.

The British company Raccoon will take the lead, while Messe München will be a strategic partner with the aim of revitalising and streamlining the event in light of changes in the global market and the new needs of exhibitors and visitors.

According to the organisers, companies that choose the new Ispo will benefit from a more convenient date and an exhibition venue that is easily accessible internationally, with particular reference to the North American market. “With the strategic reorientation of Ispo, we are growing our leading trade fair, rich in tradition, in a targeted and effective manner.

“We are seeing strong demand for a platform that promotes innovation, exchange and business opportunities,” said Harald Kirchschlager, Executive Director of Corporate Strategy & Development at Messe München, in an interview with TextilWirtschaft. Thanks to our collaboration with Raccoon Media Group, we are strengthening this vision and ensuring that the transformation continues to be driven by the needs of our customers and the entire sports and outdoor industry”.


PrimaLoft ReRun™

PrimaLoft, Inc., the global leader in sustainable, high-performance insulation, continues to advance its Relentlessly Responsible™ mission with the launch of PrimaLoft® ReRun™, a proprietary technology platform designed to break the linear consumption model.

 PrimaLoft® ReRun™ transforms textile waste into sustainable, high-performance insulation, using both mechanical and regenerative recycling processes to transform waste fabrics into PrimaLoft® insulation. The mechanical process uses recovered textile waste, shredding and blending it with PrimaLoft® fibres to create one-of-a-kind insulation products. The regenerative process breaks down waste fabrics at the molecular level before transforming them into insulation that meets the highest performance standards.

The ReRun™ platform is launching with two initial products: ThermoPlume® – a loose-fill insulation blend that translates into a flowy, down-like silhouette for versatile styling. –  and Silver – featuring soft, thin fibres that offer excellent thermal efficiency for lightweight warmth and versatility.

Generational change at Tamaris

Over the past decades, Horst Wortmann, the company’s founder, and Jens Beining, Managing Partner and CEO of the Wortmann Group, together with Partners and Managing Directors Ulrich Klüber and Dr Giovanni Lacatena, have developed the Wortmann Group into one of the strongest fashion companies in Europe. With commitment and foresight, Tamaris has been built up into one of the strongest shoe brands.

The future management team at Wortmann KG consists exclusively of long-serving employees who began their career with the company. The family-run company is thus focusing on experience, reliability and the sustainable promotion of young talent.  

With Ulrich Klüber’s retirement in summer 2026, Matthias Rodemeier will become the new Partner and Managing Director of Wortmann KG and Chief Product Officer. In addition to the Tamaris collection, he will also be responsible for sales in the DACH region.

At the same time as Rodemeier, Michael Romberg, who is already Managing Director and Partner at Jana Shoes, will additionally take over as Chief Production Officer at Wortmann KG responsible for overseeing the sourcing and production of the Tamaris brand and will thus also perform a coordinating role within the Group.

In summer 2027, Dr Giovanni Lacatena will end his operational responsibilities at Wortmann KG as planned.

On 1 June 2027, Nico Gold will become Chief Sales Officer at Wortmann KG. In addition to his role at Wortmann Fashion Retail, he will be responsible for international sales and system partnerships. He will be supported in the expansion of international sales by Felix Schmalenberger, who has been a member of the management team for many years.

With the future management team under Wortmann Schuh-Holding KG’s Managing Partner Jens Beining and Dr Tobias Seng as CFO, Wortmann KG will thus be positioned for the further development of the Tamaris brand in the long term. The combination of experience, customer focus, innovative strength and international orientation ensures sustainable and successful corporate development.

“The generational change at Tamaris, which has been initiated at an early stage, ensures continuity, allowing the company to remain on course for future success. The future management represents the customary reliability, specialist retail orientation, willingness to innovate and the sustainable further development of the brand,” says Jens Beining.


Coats Completes Acquisition of OrthoLite

The world-leading Tier 2 supplier of critical components to the apparel and footwear industries, announced today that it has completed its acquisition of OrthoLite, a global market leader in footwear materials and the number one brand in premium insoles. The acquisition marks a major milestone in the Company’s long-term growth plans and strengthens its existing footwear division through expansion into the attractive, high-growth premium insole segment.

“OrthoLite is one of the world’s most innovative manufacturers in footwear materials. With our combined capabilities, we’ll now be able to offer our customers more future-focused solutions for more of the shoe – without compromising on the trusted quality both companies stand for,” said David Paja, Group Chief Executive Officer.

Coats will also move from a three-division organisational structure, previously Apparel, Footwear and Performance Materials, toward a simplified two‑division structure focused on Apparel and Footwear. Existing Performance Materials businesses will be folded into the two new divisions.

The divisions will be led by Pasquale Abruzzese, Footwear CEO and Group Chief Operating Officer, and Adrian Elliott, Apparel CEO and Group Chief Commercial Officer. Glenn Barrett will continue to lead the OrthoLite business.


Coats Footwear launches new sustainable insole solutions

Thoughtfully engineered to meet the evolving needs of footwear brands and their manufacturing partners, the range offers high-performance, safety-focused, eco-conscious insole solutions optimised for performance sports, lifestyle footwear and workwear applications.

Drawing on Coats’ deep expertise and global manufacturing footprint, the portfolio brings together a wide selection of technically advanced insole solutions that can improve the sustainability credentials of footwear, while delivering exceptional comfort and performance.

Holger Hoffmann, Global Head of Cellulose and Channel Sales at Coats Footwear, said: “Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do, and our Insole Solutions portfolio is a direct reflection of that ethos. Our new insole range combines eco-conscious materials with cutting-edge performance, offering manufacturers smarter, safer, and more sustainable options.”

“Today’s consumers expect comfort, performance, and sustainability – all in one product,” added Holger Hoffmann. “Our new insole portfolio not only addresses these needs but also gives manufacturers a wide range of options tailored to their specific market segments. It reflects the strength of our innovation capabilities and our dedication to support a more responsible footwear industry”.

Insole Solutions products are made using bio-based and recycled materials that utilize a special process that reduces environmental impact.

From sports shoes to safety boots, Insole Solutions provide superior comfort, durability, and breathability. Engineered for high-performance applications, products are tailored for different construction methods including strobel-lasted, cement-lasted, and Goodyear welted footwear.

For safety footwear, the new range offers solutions designed with advanced safety features. such as Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) options – conductive, antistatic, and insulative Insole Solutions can help ensure compliance in demanding work environments while maintaining wearer comfort and protection.


OEKO-TEX® strengthens its commitment to biodiversity

OEKO-TEX® is intensifying its efforts to safeguard biodiversity. As part of this commitment, OEKO-TEX® is working with the environmental organisation Global Nature Fund on the project ‘Businesses for Biological Diversity’. Together, OEKO-TEX® and Global Nature Fund have analysed biodiversity aspects at the production level and developed specific criteria for the OEKO-TEX® STeP facility certification.

As part of the ‘Engaging German Companies for Biodiversiy – UBi’ project, Global Nature Fund, in cooperation with the Lake Constance Foundation, reviewed relevant standards and certifications in the textile and apparel industry to assess the extent to which they include effective requirements for the protection of biodiversity. The findings were discussed in expert forums with standard setters, textile companies and other specialists, leading to joint recommendations on how biodiversity can be better integrated in future.

With regard to OEKO-TEX® STeP, as part of its annual review, OEKO-TEX®, in collaboration with the Global Nature Fund, updated the requirements based on this knowledge. The revised standards came into force in September 2025.

Building on this strong foundation, the OEKO-TEX® STeP criteria have been expanded to place greater emphasis on biodiversity. The updated standard highlights sustainable raw material sourcing and the protection of natural habitats, while also addressing practices that contribute to biodiversity loss. From now on, OEKO-TEX® STeP certified production sites will be required to implement biodiversity management plans, set specific targets and provide regular reporting.

With the expansion of the OEKO-TEX® STeP criteria, OEKO-TEX® is committed to establishing biodiversity as an integral part ofsustainable production.

Rino Mastrotto and the Radura collection

At Lineapelle last September, Rino Mastrotto presented the AW 2026-2027 Radura collection: an open space, a place for meeting and sharing. Radura was created as an immersive concept that brought together all the Group’s excellence in a single stand, in a sensory narrative combining aesthetics, innovation and tradition.

The protagonists were the leathers from the Group’s tanneries, alongside the fine fabrics of Oreste Marianie and a selection of items embellished by Morelab, which specialises in innovative leather and fabric processing, and leather goods accessories – ribbons and components – made by Mapel. A special area was dedicated to the world of furniture, with fine leathers by Rino Mastrotto and fabrics by JacqArt, the new company created last July from the meeting between the historic expertise of the Marzotto Group and that of Rino Mastrotto.

‘We are proud to present our new “Radura” collection at Lineapelle,’ said Matteo Mastrotto, CEO of Rino Mastrotto, ‘which brings together all the excellence that distinguishes our Group.’

‘From HEARTH, the leather that saves 38 litres of water per square metre of leather and reduces the use of chemicals and CO2 emissions, to the Prada Group’s entry into the capital and the new JacqArt company born from an agreement with the Marzotto Group, 2025 marked fundamental steps on the road to growth and the completion of the Group’s luxury offering,’ concluded the CEO.

Matteo Mastrotto, Ceo of Rino Mastrotto


LINEAPELLE returns from 11 to 13 February 2026 with the SS27 preview

The leading trade fair for global luxury goods, fashion and design manufacturing attracted a total of 21,433 trade visitors to the 23-25 September 2025 edition dedicated to the winter 26/27 previews, marking a slight and inevitable decline compared to the past, given the negative economic situation and the influence of many critical issues external to the fashion industry itself. Fifty-nine per cent of the operators present at the fair came from Italy and the remaining 41 per cent from 109 countries, representing over 7,000 companies in the supply chain.

In terms of exhibitors, 1,150 companies took part in LINEAPELLE 106, presenting their new fashion collections for the Autumn/Winter 2026/202 season, alongside a packed programme of debates and in-depth discussions.

“Three satisfying days, as most of our exhibitors pointed out, despite a realistically expected reduction in visitors to the fair,” said Gianni Russo, president of Lineapelle. In the context of a market that continues to remain in a highly critical condition, LINEAPELLE has demonstrated its ability and strength to position itself as an indispensable forum for identifying, discussing and developing all possible new inputs and production and commercial paradigms that can give rise to a season of recovery and are transforming the industry. This has been achieved thanks to the strengthening of the strategic alliance with Simac Tanning Tech, a trade fair with which LINEAPELLE has signed an agreement that projects the two shows into a dimension of project sharing that is unparalleled in the supply chain in terms of innovative vision and international planning.

The synergy between Simac Tanning Tech and Lineapelle, between technology and materials, represents a virtuous model for the entire Made in Italy sector. Working together allows us to strengthen our leadership and look to the future with confidence, promoting a vision of the supply chain that goes beyond the supply chain and individual markets,” added Mauro Bergozza, president of Simac Tanning Tech.

Lineapelle has proven to be a solid, dynamic event and a source of great creativity. In its role as a laboratory of ideas and the future, it engaged and stimulated its community through a series of projects and debates, starting with the ever-popular In The Making workshops and continuing with AIMateriality and Lineapelle On The Road, initiatives offering a comprehensive insight into the impact of Artificial Intelligence tools in the fashion industry. In this regard, LENA, Lineapelle’s first virtual assistant, developed in collaboration with Ingenium – Made in Italy Innovation Platform, was presented. Of particular interest was the talk dedicated to the relationship between sport and fashion, attended by ski champion Deborah Compagnoni, ambassador for the 2026 Milan-Cortina Winter Olympics and Paralympics. There was also a large turnout for the series of scientific and regulatory seminars that analysed the latest developments in the main challenges and critical issues facing the leather industry and its supply chain.

The next edition, dedicated to the Spring-Summer 2027 season, will take place from 11 to 13 February 2026, again in pavilions 1-3, 2-4 and 5-7 due to the concurrent presence at Fiera Milano Rho of some of the competitions of the 2026 Winter Olympics in Cortina-Milan.