Since its establishment, Industrie Chimiche Forestali has integrated sustainability into its business model – based on a combination of internal research (23 R&D staff and 4 laboratories), sustainable production and a strong customer focus – together with a balanced ESG approach, extending its commitment beyond emissions reduction and energy efficiency to include corporate culture, transparency and responsibility throughout the entire supply chain.
Among the green objectives achieved in recent years, we would like to highlight the following: in 2022, conversion to UNI EN ISO 45001 and the installation of a photovoltaic system, and the following year, the publication of the Sustainability Manifesto. Then, in 2025, the achievement of ISCC PLUS certification, as well as the extension of UNI EN ISO14001, ISO45001 and EMAS at the Robecchetto plant.
ESG TARGETS FOR 2030
– At least 50% of ICF’s European footwear manufacturing customers must use water-based adhesives
– 60% of adhesives produced by ICF must be low-impact (solvent-free or water-based).
– All fabrics produced in Europe must contain at least 50% recycled, biobased or biodegradable materials.
– Identification and introduction of biobased raw materials in adhesive formulations for the automotive and flexible packaging sectors.
SDGs
ICF has identified three key SDGs for which it has already taken significant action to achieve some of the related targets:
– SDG 8 – Decent work and economic growth: ICF has invested in Industry 4.0 technologies, improving productivity and energy efficiency. It has promoted training to reduce youth unemployment and protected workers’ rights through its Code of Ethics and Model 231.
– SDG 12 – Responsible consumption and production: It has adopted certified sustainable processes, reduced waste (e.g. solvent recovery, recycled packaging), developed green adhesives and improved transparency by reporting on its environmental performance.
– SDG 15 – Life on Land: It has ensured a sustainable supply chain through the use of certified raw materials (GRS, GOTS, BCI, OK Bio Based), contributing to the conservation of ecosystems.
TFL announced its participation in ACLE 2025, which will take place from September 3rd to 5th at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre (Hall E2-E03). With over 20 years of experience and presence in China, TFL invites industry professionals and valued customers to discover the latest chemical trends, innovations, and technologies.
At ACLE 2025, TFL will present an exclusive collection of high-quality leathers. These have been designed using premium chemicals and expert advice. They are available in the fashion colors predicted for the Autumn/Winter 2026/27 season.
Beyond the traditional uses for shoes and leather goods, TFL will also show how these seasonal colors and materials can be seamlessly integrated into automotive leather interiors, blending style and functionality in this sector.
“If you are looking for genuine replacement syntans with extremely low or zero BPS/BPF content that still have the required tanning power, look no further. With our expanded TANIGAN® range, you can stay one step ahead of any legal or brand-specific restrictions and produce leather with a bisphenol content below the detection limit of 10 ppm” they explain from the chemical company.
“We also focus on lightweight leather, which is in demand because it saves energy in transportation and makes upholstery, shoe uppers and clothing more comfortable. Visit us to find out how careful selection of TFL products and application methods can reduce the weight of leather by around 20%”.
For leather finishing, TFL is introducing RODA® Line: a special product range developed for state-of-the-art transfer coating technology. This offers an environmentally conscious alternative to conventional leather finishes, from fashion to high performance articles, with excellent reproducibility.
“Please visit us at ACLE to see how these advances meet the highest performance standards, comply with ever-evolving regulations and help you to remain at the forefront of industry trends” they conclude from TFL.
The EcoVadis certification rewards companies that integrate sustainability and corporate social responsibility (CSR) principles into their processes and management models in an advanced way. Based on recognised international standards such as the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI), the United Nations Global Compact and ISO 26000, the methodology assesses 21 indicators divided into four key areas: environment, labour and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement.
Founded in 2013 by a team of professionals with extensive experience in the footwear industry, JV International has made research, innovation and sustainability the cornerstones of its development model. A strategic partner of Michelin for the design, manufacture and marketing of MICHELIN soles, the company stands out for its cross-disciplinary and highly specialised approach.
Its activities are divided into three business units: JVI-soles by MICHELIN, NexX4™ and JVI-Engineering, each focused on high value-added technical and design solutions in different market segments.
For JV International, sustainability is not an afterthought, but a true operating culture that guides every stage of the supply chain: from the choice of materials to design, from production to after-sales support. This daily commitment translates into concrete and measurable actions.
“At JV International, we work to ensure innovation and sustainability in the footwear industry. Compliance with ESG criteria is not simply a requirement for us, but a strategic choice that guides every business decision,” says Ambrogio Merlo, CEO of JV International.
The new General Manager Luca Piani adds: “It is a source of great pride to join a team that is among the elite 5% of companies assessed by EcoVadis. This prestigious recognition encourages us to continue with even greater determination on this path.”
With offices in Tavernerio and Verona, JV International continues to grow, establishing itself as a global benchmark for sustainable, high-performance and reliable solutions in the footwear industry.
“The basic idea, which originated from Japan’s great manufacturing and engineering tradition, is that the product is the most eloquent manifestation, the most concrete interface between materials engineering and industrial processes and the world of consumption. It is the starting point for all conversation about sustainable innovation. Innovation has always started with the product, and the sustainable revolution will start with the product.”
This is how Professor Alessandro Bruni of the University of Pisa sums up the essence of the Life I’m-Tan project, presented on July 17 in Vinci (Florence) after four years of research and development. The event was much more than a simple presentation of results: it was a manifesto for the future of vegetable-tanned leather. A future in which sustainability, performance, and industrial scalability are not antagonists.
A hundred-year-old chestnut tree and a piece of leather: two symbols of the tanning tradition that have been speaking to each other for centuries but which, thanks to science, can now finally truly understand each other. The LIFE I’m-Tan project – an acronym for “Innovative Modified Tannins” – has demonstrated that nature, when supported by technology and industrial vision, can compete with the most high-performance chemical solutions while keeping its green soul intact.
The project – funded by the European Union with € 1.2 million out of a total budget of € 2.3 million – involved several partners: Crossing, a spin-off of Ca’ Foscari University in Venice, developed the chemistry of the processes; CRCF designed and managed the pilot plant; Conceria INCAS tested industrial production; while the Aquarno Consortium analyzed the environmental impact of wastewater.
The result: the development of a new generation of chemically modified natural tannins (CMNT) that promise to change the rules of the game in leather tanning.
TANNINS, BUT SMARTER
The project, which started in September 2021 and, as mentioned, is funded by the European Union under the LIFE program (LIFE20 ENV/IT/000759), had a clear objective: to improve vegetable tanning and retanning processes through a new generation of chemically modified natural tannins (CMNT) derived from chestnut and quebracho.
At the heart of the innovation is a two-stage process, as explained by Andrea Cassani, BU Innovation Manager at Silvateam: “First, the natural extracts are purified, then chemically modified according to the principles of green chemistry. The result? More reactive, more stable, and higher-performing tannins. They are able to bind better to the collagen in the leather, reduce the organic load in wastewater, and guarantee a much wider color palette than traditional vegetable tannins.”
For those in the industry, this is no small feat. The limitations of vegetable tanning – the impact of wastewater, the stiffness of the leather, and its poor compatibility with products such as sneakers and car interiors – have always been the Achilles’ heel of a technology perceived as noble but obsolete.
FROM THEORY TO THE FACTORY: CONCRETE RESULTS
LIFE I’m-Tan has not remained a laboratory exercise. The project has seen the creation of a pilot plant capable of producing hundreds of kilograms of CMNT per week and the industrial-scale prototyping of five leather items, now ready for use in footwear and leather goods collections: Parma, Corvara, Water, Kendo MF, and Oxide. All tested on 2,500 raw hides from New Zealand and processed by INCAS tannery machinery.
The mechanical and chemical tests speak for themselves: CMNT-treated hides offer superior performance to traditional vegetable alternatives and, in some cases, even come close to chrome-tanned hides. Above all, however, they significantly reduce environmental impact. The environmental impact results of LIFE l’m-Tan leathers are excellent, showing significantly lower values than the benchmarks, with reductions in Global Warming Potential (GWP) of between 6% and 25%. Tanning operations such as pickling, tanning, and post-tanning are strongly influenced by the use of chemicals. The type and quantity of substances used play a crucial role in determining the environmental profile of the final product.
In the case of leather footwear on synthetic-chrome hybrid, all LCA impact categories show significant reductions, ranging from 20% to 78% compared to the benchmark. The effect of chemical consumption, a parameter used to calculate GWP, has been reduced by 36%.
Piero Rosati – INCAS
CLEANER WATER, CLEANER LEATHER
One of the critical issues for every tannery is wastewater management. LIFE I’m-Tan has monitored key parameters by comparing traditional tanning baths with CMNT-based ones. The results are encouraging: the new tannins reduce COD by up to 19% and significantly improve biodegradability.
The combined strategy is also interesting: CMNT1, with a high concentration, is more effective in terms of fixation and chemical load reduction; CMNT2, which is lighter, offers greater color flexibility and superior biodegradability. The synergy between the two allows for an optimal balance between aesthetics, performance, and environmental impact.
CIRCULAR ECONOMY: FROM BY-PRODUCTS TO ADDED VALUE
The scientific soundness of the project is also evident in the words of Gustavo Defeo, Scientific Director of CTC ARS Tinctoria: “The concept of Good Leather should allow us to leave no trace in terms of production waste, creating versatile leather articles with different end-of-life options and promoting eco-design-oriented material choices. The figures for I’m-Tan tannins are moving in this direction.”
One of the most interesting insights of the project was the valorization of waste: both that generated in the production of tannins and that derived from leather scraps. Ongoing tests show that these materials can be converted into organic fertilizers or other high-value products, with a view to achieving concrete circularity, not just declared.
As proof of this, Life Cycle Costing (LCC) has shown that, for a small surcharge (30-40 cents/kg), CMNTs reduce overall costs thanks to lower dosages, simplified treatments, and more efficient wastewater management.
TOWARDS INDUSTRY: IS THE SUPPLY CHAIN READY?
The Vinci event was not just a scientific celebration. Above all, it was a forum for discussion between players in the supply chain: from chemical companies to tanneries, from industry associations to major fashion and design brands.
Francesco Sapienza, Sustainable Materials & Data Manager at Kering, confirmed the group’s interest in sustainable alternatives: “We are redesigning our business to continue to stimulate and increase sustainability in the future, while contributing to the transformation of the luxury sector and doing our part to overcome the important social and environmental challenges of our generation.” He continued: “Since 2019, we have been working towards an increasingly sustainable supply chain and are committed to fundamental research into the evolution of materials for an increasingly sustainable impact.”
Poltrona Frau also confirms its sustainability-oriented strategy linked to leather. Daniele Gardini, R&D Leather Manager, explains: “We will never abandon leather, which is sustainable by nature and, thanks to its qualities, ensures the durability of our products (another sustainable aspect). As a company, we have decided to continuously optimize our production processes to reduce our environmental impact. This will be our focus over the next 5 years. Leather will always remain the Prince of our materials.“
From the world of footwear, Paolo Bruno, Strategic Advisor at Garsport, offers a critical but optimistic perspective: “Today, brands that understand the drive and opportunity for differentiation that a sustainable business model can give them in the market can truly think about educating the end consumer. And that is exactly what is needed. It is brands that must offer sustainable products to their customers and, in doing so, lead them towards more conscious consumption.”
To try to sum up: the market is ready, but bold decisions are needed. Sustainability – if real, measurable, and scalable – is no longer a cost but a competitive advantage.
Alessandra Taccon (Silvateam), Francesco Sapienza (Kering), Gustavo Defeo (CTC ARS Tinctoria), Alessandro Bruni (University of Pisa), Paolo Bruno (Garsport), Daniele Gardini (Poltrona Frau), Samuele Giovando (CRCF)
CONSUMER PERCEPTION: EDUCATING ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY
The Social LCA analysis conducted as part of the project revealed interesting aspects of consumer perception. Sixty-six percent of participants consider sustainability important or very important in their purchasing decisions, and many say they are willing to pay up to 10% more for ethical and environmentally friendly products.
However, there is still a knowledge gap about the environmental benefits of leather, which requires more effective and transparent communication strategies from brands.
AND NOW?
Now that the project is complete, here is a possible roadmap. The CMNT process has been engineered to achieve industrial production of 1,700 tons per year. Activities will be extended to the three main Italian tanning districts (Arzignano, Santa Croce, Solofra) with the aim of making the technology replicable and transferable to other European tanneries.
But that’s not all: CMNTs are already showing potential applications in sectors such as agriculture, animal nutrition, food & beverage… A silent but radical revolution, starting from a chestnut forest and ending up in a luxury car or biodegradable packaging.
Fulvia Bacchi – UNIC e Lineapelle
THE FUTURE? IT’S ALREADY HERE.
True sustainability is not made up of proclamations, but of data, processes, and industrial choices. LIFE I’m-Tan has shown that it is possible to innovate without sacrificing the identity of leather. That it is possible to go beyond the rhetoric of “natural” to build high-performance, clean, and replicable solutions.
As Fulvia Bacchi of UNIC and Lineapelle pointed out during the event: “Tanning is by definition a circular industry. But today it is no longer enough to be recyclers, we must be pioneers.”
Refreshments at the end of the day with the Tuscan hills as a backdrop
In a landmark ruling that defends consumer rights, the Higher Regional Court of Cologne has officially prohibited Mina Merchandising GmbH, owned by TV personality Martin Rütter, from marketing synthetic products using the misleading term apple “leather.”
The decision, issued on July 4, 2025, follows a legal challenge initiated by the Verband der Deutschen Lederindustrie e.V. (VDL) – COTANCE member, after Mina Merchandising refused to comply with a warning over deceptive advertising of plastic-based dog collars labelled as apple “leather.” The court sided with VDL, confirming that the term “leather” may only be used when a product is made entirely or partially of animal hide.
The legal challenge, brought by the VDL, argued that labelling plastic-based products as apple “leather” misleads consumers and undermines the integrity of genuine leather. While a first-instance court rejected the claim, the Higher Regional Court overturned the decision on appeal, agreeing that the use of the term “apple leather” without actual leather content was deceptive and unlawful.
“This is more than just a win for the leather industry: it’s a win for consumers and truth in marketing. We are not against innovation, but we are against misleading labels that confuse buyers and devalue traditional, natural materials,” – said Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano, Secretary General of COTANCE.
This ruling sends a strong message to all brands and marketers across the EU and beyond: materials derived from fruit waste, plastic, or synthetic compounds cannot be marketed as “leather”—a protected term that implies natural origin and a specific production process. The use of vague or greenwashed terms like vegan “leather” or apple “leather” risks violating consumer protection laws by misleading the public into believing they are purchasing an authentic, sustainable product.
“We are not opposed to new materials – but we do not want these materials to be referred to as leather in order to mislead consumers” – said Andreas Meyer, Managing Director of VDL.
The initial court ruling in 2024 dismissed VDL’s complaint, arguing that the color of the collar (blue) was enough to dispel confusion. However, on appeal, the Higher Regional Court rejected that logic and upheld the core argument: “leather” must mean leather. The judgment reaffirms that prefixes such as “apple,” “rhubarb,” or “cactus” do not justify misuse of the leather designation if no actual leather is present.
COTANCE applauds the persistent efforts of VDL in setting this legal precedent. As similar misleading practices grow across markets, this decision reinforces the urgent need for EU-wide rules protecting the authenticity of leather and ensuring a level playing field in product labeling.
Massimo Rancilio, CFO of Industrie Chimiche Forestali S.p.A. (ICF) for 15 years, has been awarded the CFO Award 2025 “Visionary” by the National Association of Administrative and Financial Directors (ANDAF) and Accuracy, an independent international consulting firm founded in Paris in 2004, with the following motivation: “For having carried out a share buyback operation through the issue of a right of sale reserved for all shareholders, an innovative operation of its kind within the Italian Stock Exchange’s reference segment. An example of strategic vision and the ability to creatively use financial tools to generate value, strengthen the company’s position in the market and create a benchmark model for the sector.”
Guido Cami, Chairman and CEO of the ICF Group, said: “It is an honour for Industrie Chimiche Forestali S.p.A. to receive such an important award in recognition of the financial transaction recently carried out thanks to the contribution of a group of motivated and professional people coordinated by Massimo Rancilio. And also to the continuous and unfailing support of the entire Board of Directors and the Board of Statutory Auditors.
Congratulations to Massimo and the entire team for their commitment over fifteen years of working together, which has enabled Forestali to excel in the administrative and financial fields as well.”
The event, which takes place in conjunction with IFLE – International Footwear and Leather Products Fair, is one of the most important and prominent events for the footwear and leather industry in the ASEAN regions.
In 2024, the fair attracted 502 exhibitors from 24 countries and regions and 9,578 professional visitors from 39 countries. Shoes & Leather – Vietnam 2025 expects over 800 exhibitors and over 15,000 professional visitors. Advanced footwear manufacturing machinery, cutting solutions, leather, synthetic leather, materials, sewing technology, automation, chemicals, clothing, 3D printing, components and much more will be on display.
Among the many companies participating are several Italian firms, some of which are part of the collective organised by ASSOMAC. This is an excellent opportunity to gain a foothold in one of the most interesting markets of recent years.
The 100th edition of MICAM will celebrate 50 years of history. Half a century of know-how, innovation, Made in Italy and international vision have made the footwear exhibition a global event. The event, which will take place from 7 to 9 September at fieramilano Rho, has become a real point of reference, not only for small and medium-sized Italian companies, but also for international brands.
MICAM, a global event for fashionable, high-quality, innovative and sustainable footwear, represents the history of Italian excellence based on a unique combination of craftsmanship and genuine passion, driven by constant innovation and a continuous search for styles and trends.
There have been numerous milestones along the way. Although its origins date back to 1931 in Vigevano, the cradle of Italian footwear, it was in 1974 that the event took a strategic turn, together with A.N.C.I. – the National Association of Italian Footwear Manufacturers. The association took over its management, further consolidating it in the following years. With the new millennium, Milan became the permanent venue, opening up a path increasingly focused on internationalisation. In 2017, the project was further enriched with spaces dedicated to events, training, entertainment, seminars and special areas. Digitalisation was embraced and the concept of a marketplace was introduced to provide a memorable visitor experience. A further step forward was taken in 2018 with the rebranding of MICAM Milano.
Thanks to an exhibition of 1,000 brands from all over the world, MICAM attracts buyers from over 150 countries. MICAM 100, chaired by Giovanna Ceolini, will be inaugurated in the presence of Minister Urso with the cancellation of the ordinary postage stamp belonging to the thematic series ‘Le Eccellenze del sistema produttivo e del Made in Italy’ (The Excellence of the Production System and Made in Italy), in the presence of the press and institutions.
The exhibition will shine the spotlight on the new products for spring-summer 2026 from the best international companies and brands that symbolise Italian manufacturing districts, which make Made in Italy great throughout the world. It will feature a packed schedule of events, seminars and a special exhibition: “100 steps into the future” will offer visitors the opportunity to immerse themselves in the history of MICAM and footwear fashion over the last 50 years.
The Trends & Materials area will also return, linked to the Buyer Guide, and the Future of Retail space, dedicated to innovative ideas that will change the point of sale, with companies offering advanced solutions for the footwear sector. There will also be fashion shows, emerging designers and presentations on fashion trends.
MICAM X is evolving and giving rise to MICAM Next: a new programme curated by Wired, featuring numerous seminars dedicated to the theme of innovation. These will be: “E-commerce, new tech; omnichannel strategies for footwear” – “Shoe design, between genius and customisation” – ‘At the feet of AI’ – ‘Sports shoes, tech shoes’.
Finally, 2025 is also a special year for Assocalzaturifici. The association, which represents 500 companies in the sector at national level, is celebrating its 80th anniversary. Eight decades dedicated to promoting Italian footwear excellence around the world.
Some partnerships don’t age: they evolve. The partnership between DESMA and ABB, which began in the 1980s, is one such partnership. Starting with the introduction of the first ABB robots adapted for footwear production, it has led to concrete results over time, thanks in part to important collaborations such as the one with adidas.
Today, after 40 years, the fruits of this alliance are clear: efficient automation, consistent quality, reduced use of materials and protection of operator health. Robots play a key role in key stages of production – from deburring to spraying release agents and applying adhesives – performing every task with surgical precision.
The goal? To offer footwear manufacturers around the world reliable and cost-effective solutions that strengthen industrial competitiveness.
The leather sector is running on a stationary treadmill: it is moving, but not advancing.
The start of 2025 confirmed what was feared: Italian leather goods are struggling to recover. The figures speak for themselves. In the first three months of the year, exports fell by 8.5% compared to the same period in 2024, with a sharp drop of 17.5% to Far East markets. Domestic demand? Down 4.4%. Turnover? Down 7.7%. And industrial production? Down as much as 16.4%.
In other words, the sector is not at a standstill, but is wearing itself out by keeping moving without making any progress.
This is what emerges from the economic report prepared by the Confindustria Accessori Moda Research Centre, which takes into account the performance of the Italian leather goods industry in the first quarter of 2025.
Always the driving force behind the entire supply chain, Italian leather goods exports sold €2.44 billion worth of goods abroad in the first quarter, down €228 million on the previous year. The average price fell by 5.3% to €145.58/kg, continuing a deflationary trend that began in 2023 after the peaks of 2021-22.
The decline mainly affected non-EU markets (-12.4% in value), which account for 64.3% of total exports in value, while the EU held steady (-0.6%). Among the non-European markets in greatest difficulty are China (-31.5%), South Korea (-12.8%), Hong Kong (-15.4%) and Canada (-12.4%).
Switzerland, formerly a hub for luxury brands, saw a 47.7% collapse and slipped to 11th place among destination markets.
In contrast, the United Arab Emirates (+19.5%), Turkey (+27.6%) and Qatar (+18.8%) bucked the trend, confirming steady growth over the last five years.
THE US NODE: WHERE IS THE HISTORIC MARKET HEADING?
The United States, which in 2024 absorbed Italian leather goods worth over €1.2 billion, seems to be holding up: +0.7% in value in the first quarter. But the shadows are lengthening. The new tariffs imposed by the Trump presidency are fuelling uncertainty. 69% of Italian exporters expect significant impacts, and 47% are already exploring alternative markets.
Europe, Asia and the Middle East are the most popular destinations, while Mercosur remains – at least for now – off the radar.
DOMESTIC DEMAND: WEAK AND UNCERTAIN
The Italian market offers little consolation. Retail sales of leather goods and footwear fell by 4.4% in the first quarter compared to 2024, and remain 5.8% below pre-Covid levels in 2019.
The only positive note comes from tourism: foreign visitors spent 6.4% more, according to the Bank of Italy. But this is not enough to offset stagnant domestic demand.
PRODUCTION AND EMPLOYMENT IN DIFFICULTY
The ISTAT index of industrial production for the leather supply chain recorded a -16.4% decline in the first four months of the year. This is an alarming figure, only partially mitigated by a slowdown in the decline in April (-4.6%).
Layoffs are also back in the spotlight: +66.1% compared to the first quarter of 2024, with almost 13 million hours authorised. Tuscany leads the ranking, with over 5 million hours (+200%), followed by Campania and Marche.
The number of active companies fell by 1% (-46 units), while the number of employees fell to 48,184 (-530 compared to December). Fifty-two per cent of companies saw their turnover decline, and only 7% recorded increases of more than 10%. The outlook for the second quarter? Still negative: a further 6% drop in turnover is expected.
HANDBAGS REMAIN QUEEN, BUT…
Handbags remain the best-selling product (€1.68 billion, equal to 69.1% of exports), but are losing ground (-10.6%).
Suitcases (-12.8%) and small leather goods (-4.5%) are also down. Belts are bucking the trend: +5.9% in value and +25.3% in volume, although still far from pre-2019 levels.
In terms of materials, leather products are holding up better (-4.6%) than substitutes (-16.8%), but the decline is widespread.
THREATS PERCEIVED BY THE SECTOR
A survey of Assopellettieri members confirms widespread concerns. The main threats identified are:
· weak demand (77%);
· the Russia-Ukraine conflict (62%);
· new US tariffs (42%);
· tensions in the Middle East (27%);
· the slowdown in international luxury brands (25%).
Added to this are rising raw material costs (23%), the German recession (23%) and the shortage of skilled labour (20%).
CONCLUSIONS: THE SECTOR IS IN THE TRENCHES
The Italian leather goods industry is going through a period of resistance rather than recovery. The fundamentals remain solid – product quality, international reputation, ability to defend markets – but the context is among the most difficult of the last ten years.
As the report notes, the trade balance remains positive (+1.52 billion euros in the quarter), but down 15%. This is an important sign, but it is not enough.
Vision is needed. Strategy is needed. Above all, demand needs to start breathing again.
