Arsutoria Studio

13ª 4sustainability by Ympact: how to turn complexity into industrial capability

The Beste Hub in Prato hosted the thirteenth edition of the annual 4sustainability by Ympact event, which focused on the strategic shift ‘From Resilience to Antifragility’ to integrate sustainability and digital technology into the fashion supply chain. In front of an audience of around 500 industry experts and professionals, both in person and online, the event promoted a vision in which ESG data and traceability are no longer merely regulatory obligations or downstream reporting requirements, but strategic assets integrated right from the product design stage. The proceedings were opened by the founders Francesca Rulli (Ympact), Claudio Rovere (Hind) and Giovanni Santi (Beste), who highlighted how the event – hosted on a rotating basis by organisations adopting this system – drives investment and greater process integration. The theoretical discussion was launched by a keynote speech from Alex Zanon (Digital Attitude), who, drawing inspiration from the thinking of Nassim Nicholas Taleb, invited the audience to build businesses capable of learning from uncertainty, by managing data and decentralising decision-making. Subsequently, Francesca Rulli and Massimo Brandellero (Ympact) elaborated on the group’s vision, explaining how the Ympact platform now involves 6,300 Italian suppliers (over 10 per cent of the supply chain), transforming data into a genuine raw material for generating trust and collaborative value.

The second part of the event focused on working groups addressing the practical challenges of the transition, starting with the introduction of the Digital Product Passport (DPP). In the panel discussion chaired by Martina Schiuma (Ympact), experts including Paolo Cibien (GS1 Italy), Kehua Hu (CNTAC), Claudia Gaudiello (NUO) and Giulio Lombardo (Brachi Testing Services) discussed interoperability and the quality of evidence required to prepare corporate information systems for the new European ESPR Regulation. Meanwhile, on the subject of due diligence, Francesca Rulli spoke with industry representatives Andrea Crespi (Confindustria Moda), Moreno Vignolini (Confartigianato), Paolo Pernici (CNA), Mickaël Maniez (Kering / Fashion Pact) and Valentino Durante (FVL) to address the critical issue of the proliferation of questionnaires and audits. This discussion led to the creation of the harmonised “4s ETHIC” system, comprising five key actions based on a common language, cooperation and the pooling of investments. After hearing accounts of experiences from the districts and Italian industry clusters (Cardato Riciclato Pratese, Consorzio Physis, Innovation for Luxury and MagnoLab), the proceedings concluded with a presentation of the “Behind the DPP” project by Rulli and Schiuma, reiterating that the digital passport is the final output of a complex, shared data infrastructure, essential for compliance and risk management.


RIR Face Design: the new phase of the “RELIABLE” programme for companies in the Veneto region is now underway

The “RELIABLE” project is now in full swing, guiding Veneto-based fashion, footwear and sports companies towards the future Digital Product Passport (DPP). Promoted by the Face Design Regional Innovation Network and the Sportsystem District (led by the Politecnico Calzaturiero), the programme boasts a regional investment of over 3.2 million euros. The initiative involves 18 companies and the Universities of Padua and Verona, anticipating European regulations on traceability and sustainability which, for the textile sector, will come into force after 2027.

The initial trials are already yielding results on two fronts: supply chain mapping and life cycle assessment (LCA). Among the pioneers, Nice Footwear has completed its supplier audit and has also hired the university student who worked on the project, whilst Tecnica Group has measured the environmental footprint of all its Tecnica and Nordica ski boots.

“At a particularly challenging time for our sector, linking the expertise of businesses with that of the research community is essential for tackling the challenges of the market,” says Bruno Conterno, Chairman of RIR Face Design.

In addition to sustainability, RELIABLE is developing a second line of research focused on comfort and safety. Through the use of artificial intelligence, biomechanics and digital twins, the experts are creating new technologies to improve product performance. The activities in this second phase will conclude in March 2027.

Bruno Conterno, Presidente RIR Face Design

Vibram:“Long Lasting Confidence”

With its global “Long Lasting Confidence” campaign, Vibram has chosen to place durability – that is, the ability to maintain performance over time – at the heart of its narrative. This is not an entirely new concept, but rather the evolution of a value that has been part of the brand’s technological DNA since its inception, and which today takes on an even deeper meaning in its relationship with people, expressing not only a sole’s resistance to wear and tear but also the certainty of being able to rely on its reliability, step by step.

The fact that durability is a crucial factor in purchasing decisions is confirmed by a recent market survey conducted by the company amongst more than 10,000 consumers in seven key countries, including the United States, the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Brazil, China and Japan. The survey reveals that as many as 8 out of 10 respondents consider durability to be an important or decisive factor when choosing footwear, ranking it just behind comfort, which remains at the top of their overall preferences.

Looking in more detail at consumer expectations, this requirement takes on specific forms depending on the context of use, starting with the world of outdoor activities and trail running, where durability is the primary feature sought by 31.6 per cent of enthusiasts and translates into the promise of long-lasting performance – essential for covering long distances. In the world of work and safety within the Work & Safety range, where the percentage rises to 35.9 per cent—confirming it as the top priority for those working in demanding conditions—the concept instead becomes synonymous with unbreakability and heavy-duty construction, offering extreme durability to ensure consistent and safe performance even in the most gruelling situations. This central importance is also evident in the realm of traditional sporting performance, where durability goes hand in hand with the demand for stability for 31.6 per cent of respondents, whilst in everyday life the concept takes the form of ‘durable comfort’ – a perfect balance that combines everyday comfort with a shoe designed to stand the test of time.

“The research findings confirm a distinctive feature deeply rooted in Vibram’s heritage: durability – understood as the ability to guarantee long-lasting performance – is one of the attributes most strongly associated with the brand by consumers who are familiar with its history. This value complements equally well-established aspects of our identity, such as stability, comfort, grip, support and traction – all of which reflect Vibram’s ability to deliver safety and performance in all conditions and on every type of terrain,” emphasises Paolo Manuzzi, Global General Manager at Vibram. “This is a significant accolade, reflecting decades of research, innovation and technological development, and providing us today with a solid foundation on which to continue strengthening Vibram’s positioning. With this new campaign, we aim to highlight this very heritage, placing a concrete and distinctive value at the centre for our consumers and for the future of the brand.”

Building on a history spanning more than 80 years of innovation in rubber, Vibram is thus broadening the horizons of durability, transforming it into a promise of mutual and enduring trust that enables products to retain their original characteristics and allows people to enjoy their activities to the full. To convey this philosophy, the brand has planned a major global campaign launching in October 2026 across markets in Europe, the United States, China, Japan and Australia, developing the narrative through three short 15-second videos distributed across digital channels such as Meta, YouTube and TikTok, accompanied by an in-depth feature on the official Vibram.com website, thereby continuing to evolve its brand identity around the ability to design performance built to last.


Elite Boxing Shoes: technology steps into the ring

The star feature of the new Elite Boxing Shoes is the Michelin sole, developed to offer grip, flexibility and support, guiding the athlete through the sport’s most dynamic movements. The circular tread pattern is designed to facilitate lateral movements, which are fundamental to a boxer’s footwork, whilst the wide contact surface helps ensure grip and durability. The flex grooves allow the sole to adapt to the foot’s movements, promoting natural mobility during movement and rapid changes of direction. A combination of technical features designed to offer the athlete control and freedom of movement in the ring. Rounding off the design is a specialised compound for indoor surfaces – soft, non-slip and non-marking – developed to provide good grip on flat, even surfaces without leaving marks on the floor.

The sole technology is complemented by a lightweight upper and a high-top design, featuring an additional ankle strap to provide greater support during movement and changes of direction.

With the Elite Boxing Shoes, Everlast and Soles by Michelin reaffirm the value of a partnership that puts technology at the service of performance. A fusion of sporting tradition and engineering expertise, in which every element of the tread is designed to meet the demands of boxing.


The industry gets back on track at Lineapelle, embodying internationalism and resilience

LINEAPELLE 108, held at Fiera Milano Rho from 15 to 17 September 2026, firmly established the event’s role as an international benchmark and strategic hub for the global leather, materials, accessories and components industry serving the fashion, luxury and design sectors. Against a global macroeconomic backdrop still characterised by economic uncertainty and persistent geopolitical tensions, the event recorded a solid performance, demonstrating the sector’s remarkable resilience and its strong ability to adapt.

The three-day fair saw the participation of 1,029 exhibitors and attracted 22,800 trade visitors, including over 17,000 buyers. The most significant figure relates to international appeal: as many as 43 per cent of visitors travelled to Milan from 114 countries, confirming the event’s indispensable global reach.

This result marks a 10 per cent increase compared with the benchmark edition in September 2025. This increase takes on even greater significance when compared with last February’s event, against which there was a strong upturn in both visitor numbers (+35%) and exhibitor numbers (+21%), brilliantly overcoming the logistical challenges that had characterised the start of the year due to the event coinciding with the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games.

Beyond the figures, LINEAPELLE 108 succeeded in interpreting and conveying the image of an industry which, whilst facing a complex economic climate and markets whose foundations have been profoundly transformed, is now seeing the first positive signs that emerged during 2026.

The event’s effectiveness was also reflected in the success of its cultural and educational programme. The packed programme of talks, workshops and presentations broadened the commercial scope of the event, transforming it into an indispensable forum for discussion. At the heart of the debate were the key themes that are reshaping the sector’s future: the interplay between creativity and innovation, the urgent need for tangible sustainability supported by new technologies, the training of the next generation, and an analysis of the changing market landscape.

With this chapter now successfully concluded, the event will return for its next edition, dedicated to the 2028 summer season, which will once again take place in Milan from Tuesday 23 to Thursday 25 February 2027.

The OrthoLite® supercritical revolution

The world leader in high-performance insoles presents two new solutions set to mark a clear break with the past: OrthoLite® SCF™ ATPU and its dual-layer evolution, OrthoLite® SCF™ ATPU+Float, which embody the evolution of the supercritical foaming (SCF) process. Unlike traditional chemical foaming methods, which leave residues and compromise the purity of the materials, the SCF process utilises gas under supercritical conditions to expand the polymer. The result is an extremely cleaner production method, free from harmful chemicals, which creates a uniform, refined and incredibly high-performance cellular structure.

OrthoLite® SCF™ ATPU

The new OrthoLite® SCF™ ATPU formulation combines the proven performance benefits of aliphatic TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) with innovative SCF technology. The result is a low-density material with a lightweight structure, designed specifically for footwear brands that refuse to compromise on weight and responsiveness. This insole stands out for a range of exceptional mechanical properties: enhanced rebound, extreme durability and hydrophobic nature (the polymer is inherently water-repellent). Thanks to these characteristics, OrthoLite® SCF™ ATPU is ideally suited to the most demanding environments in the sporting world, such as trail running, hiking and high-level athletic performance.

SCF Dual-layer (ATPU+Float)

Whilst the single-layer version represents a technological leap forward, the introduction of OrthoLite® SCF™ ATPU+Float completely redefines the boundaries of biomechanical comfort. OrthoLite® has, in fact, succeeded in combining the structural properties of expanded aliphatic TPU with the extreme lightness and high elasticity of OrthoLite® Float™, creating a dual-layer configuration.

In this advanced design, the ATPU compound acts as a solid and resilient base, whilst the upper Float layer maximises softness and breathability. This synergy offers unique benefits:

•    Superior cushioning: the dual-layer structure absorbs impacts in a differentiated manner, reducing joint fatigue.

•    Maximum breathability: despite its high performance, the foot enjoys a microclimate that remains cool and dry at all times.

•    Versatility of use: the elastic properties of the Float layer make this technology perfect not only for elite athletes, but for any footwear designed for an active lifestyle.

SCF™ ATPU

Cuoio di Toscana wins the Artisanal Excellence Award

The Consortium, which brings together the leading Italian companies specialising in the production of sole leather and boasts an internationally recognised manufacturing heritage, received the award for excellence in the Italian supply chain at the MF Value Chain Awards 2026, held during the Milan Fashion Global Summit on 21 September.

 “This recognition confirms the value of a supply chain that combines quality, expertise and the ability to innovate. For Cuoio di Toscana, it is an incentive to continue promoting Italian know-how and forging new links with the international fashion world,” commented the board of Cuoio di Toscana.

It is precisely with this aim of forging new connections with the worlds of fashion, design and contemporary creativity that the collaboration with Paul Andrew came about; during Milan Fashion Week, he presented the new women’s capsule collection by Paul Andrew x Cuoio di Toscana, entitled He(ART). Developed through a dialogue between the Consortium’s expertise and the international designer’s creative vision, the collection centres on ‘The Fettuccine’, an ironic, sophisticated and deeply Italian tribute to Italian style.

The idea stems from the production of fettuccine and the possibility of applying a technology similar to that used for pasta to the material, allowing for precise control over thickness and length. In Paul Andrew’s design, thin strips of Tuscan leather become structural elements of the footwear, intertwining to create a unique silhouette.

The Fettuccine,

New Nastrotex-Cufra AW27/28 collection

The Covo (BG)-based company, which specialises in the production of elasticated fabrics for the fashion and sportswear sectors, made its return to LINEAPELLE from 15 to 17 September 2026 with its TREND Collection AW27/28. This was a selection of elastic ribbons that interpreted some of the season’s most recognisable motifs — from houndstooth to Prince of Wales check to animal prints — through the introduction of new textures, finishes and extensive customisation options. For the company, the trend collection once again represented not merely an image to be reproduced, but rather a guideline to be transformed into tangible materials, functions and applications, with the aim of providing designers, design studios and manufacturers with a repertoire of elastic solutions capable of engaging both with the season’s design languages and with the practical requirements of design and production.

Classic patterns such as houndstooth, Prince of Wales and animal prints have been incorporated into the collection as genuine starting points for different combinations and developments. The textures and finishes have expanded the expressive possibilities of elastic tape, whilst customisation has made it possible to adapt each solution to the brand’s identity and the specific application within footwear.

At LINEAPELLE, VERSATILITY 2026 – the concept through which Nastrotex-Cufra showcased the ability of its products to adapt to different styles, functions and designs – thus entered a new phase. Following the launch in February and the technical developments presented at PERFORMANCE DAYS, the September event highlighted the interplay between aesthetic research, customisation and industrial feasibility. The stand itself reflected this vision, presenting itself as a white, minimalist and open space, conceived as a neutral canvas on which materials, ideas and requests could take shape through direct dialogue with the team.

Two-dimensional crystals and leather: Dermasoft Climaflex BDM is born

Deep-tech firm BeDimensional S.p.A. and the Tuscan-based company Dermacolor S.r.l., a specialist in tanning chemicals, have joined forces to launch Dermasoft Climaflex BDM. This innovative tanning auxiliary introduces two-dimensional crystals directly into leather processing, offering a concrete solution to the demands of high-value, discerning markets such as the automotive, footwear, clothing and technical leather goods sectors.

At the heart of this technology lies the seamless integration of BeDimensional’s advanced materials into the chemical formulations developed by Dermacolor. Laboratory tests have revealed extraordinary improvements: the application of these crystals increases resistance to bursting and tearing, with increases exceeding 80 per cent on certain types of leather. In addition to durability, the product guarantees exceptional thermal comfort, optimising heat dissipation and lowering the surface temperature by up to 5 °C. A major advantage for tanneries lies in the practicality of the innovation, which fits seamlessly into traditional workflows without requiring any modifications to existing machinery or production processes.

This project is not merely a technological milestone, but is rooted in a strategic and rapidly expanding region. Whilst Dermacolor has always operated in Castelfranco di Sotto, in the heart of the Tuscan tanning district, BeDimensional is pursuing a major industrial scaling-up programme that will soon see the establishment of a new production hub in Collesalvetti, in the Livorno area. Its geographical proximity within the Interporto Toscano Amerigo Vespucci logistics hub will enable the materials of the future to be directly linked to manufacturing excellence, harnessing unique and complementary expertise to accelerate the technological evolution of one of the districts that epitomises ‘Made in Italy’.

“Our collaboration with BeDimensional enables us to explore new frontiers in tanning chemistry, integrating advanced materials into solutions designed to meet the sector’s future needs,” commented Andrea Meucci, owner of Dermacolor. “This project stems from the convergence of research, practical experience and a focus on leather performance, with the aim of supporting the supply chain’s evolution towards increasingly innovative and functional products.”

Italian footwear knocks on UNESCO’s door: Italian craftsmanship at stake

Today, the crews of large cruise ships want a Neapolitan pizza chef on board. Something has indeed changed since UNESCO recognised ‘the Art of the Neapolitan Pizza Chef’. Note: not the pizza itself, which remains a recipe. The hands that make it. And with those hands, the demand to learn the trade has grown, to the point that the majority of applications come from abroad, from those who nevertheless wish to train in Italy. What does this have to do with footwear?

On 11 June 2026, in the Salone degli Arazzi at the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy, during the 2026 General Assembly of Assocalzaturifici, the application process for the Art of Italian Footwear to be included on UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage was presented. The meeting, moderated by Nicola Porro, formalised the Promoting Committee: it is chaired by Giovanna Ceolini of Assocalzaturifici and comprises Museimpresa, CERCAL and Politecnico Calzaturiero. The initiative, promoted by the Ministry, entrusts the Committee and the UNESCO Chair at Unitelma Sapienza University with the task of drafting the dossier and engaging the communities of practitioners, a key element of the 2003 UNESCO Convention.

 

“Italian footwear represents one of the most recognisable expressions of our production system,” said Minister Adolfo Urso: supporting the nomination “means strengthening a production model that sets Italy apart in the world”.

 

A HERITAGE TO BE PRESERVED. In addition to Urso, speakers included Antonio Calabrò, president of Museimpresa, via video message, Marco Amato, vice-president of Museimpresa, Serena Musolesi, CEO of Cercal, and Alice Marcato, technical director of the Polytechnic of Footwear.

GENERATIONS OF EXCELLENCE. The second panel brought together the Minister of Education and Merit Giuseppe Valditara, Federico Eichberg, Chief of Staff at the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy, and Giovanni Brugnoli, President of the Fondazione Imprese e Competenze per il Made in Italy.

 

THE ITALIAN ART OF SHOEMAKING: CULTURE, MEMORY, IDENTITY. The concluding panel featured Pier Luigi Petrillo, director of the UNESCO Chair at Unitelma Sapienza, Giovanna Ferragamo Gentile, president of the Ferragamo Foundation, Marco Nocivelli, vice-president of Confindustria with responsibility for Industrial Policy and Made in Italy, Minister Plenipotentiary Filippo La Rosa (Ministry of Foreign Affairs),

Davide Rampello, cultural manager and lecturer, and sociologist Francesco Morace, president of Future Concept Lab.

 

Here is the point: the nomination does not defend an object, but rather a know-how. The 2003 Convention does not reward the most beautiful product, but the community that passes it down. Nor does it ask for uniqueness: the opposite is true, because the more a tradition engages with others, the more it is valued.

Identity, memory and culture risk becoming worn out if they remain overused words or are left to the ravages of time. The dossier serves to prevent this. Petrillo pointed out that the recognition concerns a living system of practices and communities, with economic, cultural and professional implications. Giovanna Ferragamo Gentile highlighted the continuity between the creative, technical and productive dimensions: ‘My father [Salvatore Ferragamo, ed.] would sketch the design on the wooden last because he knew that, before being beautiful, the shoe had to fit comfortably.’ Nocivelli and La Rosa emphasised local storytelling and soft power: quality opens up the market, but it is the story that makes people choose that shoe over another.

The key issue running through the supply chain remains: who will take up the baton? The sector admits it: it has communicated poorly, allowing the factory to sound like a fallback option. The bid is therefore linked to human capital. “Schools and technical-vocational training are called upon to build the skills that will underpin the future of Made in Italy. We must strengthen the link between education and work and guide young people towards pathways that combine quality, specialisation and opportunity,’ observed Valditara. Footwear schools, established within the districts, now teach cutting and assembly alongside CAD, 3D printing and eco-design: from the manual to the digital, without one excluding the other. It is precisely the vocational schools and the story of an advanced, fascinating and innovative industrial sector—one that offers excellent opportunities for growth and career development—that are tasked with attracting new generations who are well-prepared and capable of keeping alive a tradition that is vital for Italy, including in terms of exports and the balance of trade.

 

The project has garnered the support of the main regions in the sector — Lombardy, Veneto, Marche, Puglia, Campania, Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany — a sign of its national scope. Rampello saw in it a synthesis of tradition and innovation; Morace turned the usual formula on its head: true tradition is not preserved, but is passed on, generation after generation, whilst also emphasising the value of the Italian Factor and the need to create new forms of generational engagement.

 

In closing, Giovanna Ceolini, President of Assocalzaturifici and the Promoting Committee, highlighted the significance of the initiative: ‘This proposal stems from a desire to recognise the cultural value of a heritage that belongs to the entire country. Italian footwear combines technical expertise, regional identity and the ability to evolve over time. It is an opportunity to showcase a wealth of knowledge that forms an essential part of our manufacturing identity.’

 

Let’s return to the cruise ships. That pizza chef is no longer in demand today because someone has found a magic recipe, but because his value has been recognised and dignity has been restored to his trade. The challenge taken up in Rome is the same: to demonstrate that even for a shoe, hands remain the instrument of intelligence, and the individual and their know-how remain crucial.

The initiative launches a national project aimed at promoting the heritage of skills, traditions and manufacturing capabilities that characterise the Italian supply chain.