Sustainability in the automotive sector is no longer a side road to be explored in the future, but a four-lane highway that the industry is travelling at ever-increasing speed. At Lineapelle 2025, the key event in the tanning industry, this acceleration was particularly evident. At the centre of attention was the strategic collaboration between Ecotan® and Stellantis, two players who have decided to join forces and expertise to chart a new direction in terms of ecological innovation and circularity of production.
Ecotan®, a 100% metal-free tanning technology developed by Silvateam, is not new to pioneering initiatives. Already known for offering the market a sustainable and ‘Zero-Waste’ alternative, resulting into recyclable leathers that find new life in biofertilizer, compost or biochar, it has captured the interest of automotive giant Stellantis. The collaboration aims to use leather tanned with the Ecotan® system and supplied by JBS-Zenda for the interior of the new Opel Grandland, recently featured in international promotional campaigns.
Gustavo Defeo, Vice-President of CTC Ars Tinctoria, highlighted how Ecotan® tanning technology, developed to create a highly bio-based leather, is a key solution for significantly reducing CO₂ emissions. These are precisely the characteristics that convinced a large group like Stellantis to go down the Ecotan® route, as confirmed by Paolino Giorgio Napolitano, Purchasing Global Lead at Stellantis, who clearly outlined the company’s sustainability goals.
“We have never seen so much effort put into finding alternatives to traditional materials,” said Napolitano. “Our objective is not only to reduce CO₂ emissions through the materials used to upholster a vehicle, but also to extend the lifecycle of these materials by improving their recyclability at the end of their lifespan.”
It was this very vision that led to the creation of the SRM – Sustainable Raw Materials department at Stellantis, which selects and develops environmentally friendly and highly recyclable materials, ensuring their sustainability throughout their entire life cycle.
In addition, Stellantis emphasises a crucial balance between sustainability and cost. Elisabetta Boschetto, Stellantis Polymers & Bio-sourced, Soft Trim Specialist, emphasised how crucial it is to find economically sustainable compromises in order to bring these innovations to the market without placing an excessive burden on the end consumer.
Lo stand Silvateam all’edizione di febbraio 2025 di LineapellePaolino Giorgio Napolitano, Purchasing Global Lead di Stellantis, e Elisabetta Boschetto, specialista in polimeri e materiali bio-sourced di StellantisIl vicepresidente di CTC Ars Tinctoria, Gustavo De Feo spiega i risultati della sua ricerca
At Lineapelle, Ecotan® presented a complete range of leathers designed to bring sustainable value to automotive interiors: not only seats, but also door panels, dashboards and consoles, developed with prestigious tanneries – such as Mario Levi with the Ecotan® Advanced version, Durli Couros and Eagle Ottawa – or like Rino Mastrotto who presented the B-Foglia and B-Terra collections at the fair. The exhibition of car interior seats from various brands allowed visitors to appreciate at first hand the authentic beauty, naturalness and performance of the leathers, but above all their effectiveness and sustainability. It also made visitors experience first-hand the ‘Made to be Reborn’ concept, Ecotan®’s slogan that perfectly captures the project’s circular mission.
A significant challenge remains, however, overcoming the technical obstacles related to recyclability. As Boschetto pointed out, separating complex materials such as polyurethane from leather is still complicated, but the research effort focuses on these very obstacles and wants to overcome the remaining barriers. The collaboration between Ecotan® and Stellantis is a virtuous example of how such challenges can be met by realising eco-design solutions, through a joint effort, that satisfy both technical and environmental requirements.
But it is not just about technology and materials. This alliance also highlights the need for clearer communication in the sector, avoiding terminological confusion and ‘greenwashing’ practices. Gustavo Defeo recalled the importance of rigorous testing, such as radiocarbon testing, to clearly distinguish what is truly sustainable and what is not.
Ecotan® and Stellantis are not just focusing on new sustainable leathers: they are redefining the standards of the entire automotive industry. In a world seeking radical and concrete changes, this partnership is setting a clear and innovative course.
“The hope is that more and more brands will take this route and be inclined to adopt emerging technologies that promote environmental friendliness,” says Alessandra Taccon, Silvateam BU Leather Sustainable Technologies Business Director. Sustainable leather is no longer just an option: it is the new rule of the game.
The 25th All-China Leather Exhibition (ACLE), the trade fair dedicated to the leather industry held annually in Shanghai at the New International Expo Centre in the Pudong district, is scheduled from 3 to 5 September. The event will cover an exhibition area of 80,500 square metres, 66,000 square metres of which will be occupied by Chinese exhibitors and the rest by international companies, including chemical and tanning technology suppliers with a significant Italian presence.
The next edition will certainly be driven by the excellent results recorded last year: 31 thousand visitors and the presence at the exhibition level of no less than 17 national collectives from nine countries, including Italy, Brazil, the United States and Australia, which created a dynamic and vital event. In recent months, however, many clouds have gathered over the Shanghai fair. The reasons for concern relate to the worsening international economic and geopolitical picture. China’s leather industry (and beyond) is suffering from declining global demand and especially from the general climate of uncertainty resulting from the trade war between China and the United States, which at the beginning of the Trump administration saw an initial phase of tariff escalation that virtually crippled trade, followed by a 90-day reprieve thanks to an agreement under which Washington applies tariffs lowered to 30 percent on Chinese products and Beijing to 10 percent. As for industry figures, despite an average decline of 15% in the first half of 2024, the Chinese leather industry is forecasting good growth prospects, particularly in the upholstery and automotive sectors (up 5%). It is worth mentioning that over 31 million new vehicles were sold in China last year, 20-25% of which had leather interiors.
Returning to the fair, in the same week as ACLE, Shanghai will host several other industry-related events. First and foremost, the 22nd UITIC International Technical Footwear Congress scheduled for 2 September: a major international event that will attract footwear experts and technicians from all over the world. Also important are the International Tanning Summit and the Annual Assembly of CLIA, the Chinese Leather Industry Association, which will take place on the sidelines of the fair and attract tanners from all over China.
In an industry where weight is often synonymous with performance, STEMMA is rewriting the rules with NUCLEOOS: a technology that goes beyond merely reducing polyurethane density, it redefines its very role. Lightness, adaptability, and process continuity become the new hallmarks of a material that, thanks to this innovation, gains a renewed identity within the footwear supply chain.
The result of a synergistic combination of advanced research, process engineering, and in-depth knowledge of the footwear industry, NUCLEOOS enables the production of ultra-light polyurethane with drastically reduced density, without compromising on aesthetics or technical performance.
While others rely on complex systems, dedicated molds, and entirely redesigned processes, NUCLEOOS fits seamlessly intoexisting polyurethane molding processes, requiring no major changes to production lines.
A shift in perspective; this isn’t just about expanding polyurethane, it’s about expanding its possibilities.
With NUCLEOOS, polyurethane breaks free from its “high-performance but heavy”, emerging as a light, versatile, and competitive option even in the performance-driven world of sports footwear, ready to rival the most advanced expanded materials on the market.
A concrete answer for an industry seeking accessible innovation with solid numbers and ready-to-adopt solutions.
Why would a magazine dedicated to fashion accessories, shoes and bags talk about a trade fair designed for clothing manufacturers? Because the situation of the two sectors is similar and because some of those who make machines and technology for footwear and leather goods might be interested in expanding their horizons, as some are already doing. A way to counter the current market uncertainties.
With a turnover estimated to reach Euro 59.8 billion in 2024, albeit down on the previous year, the Textile-Clothing sector continues to be one of the most important production chains for the Italian economy, with a strong impact on exports, employment and the promotion of Made in Italy in the world. According to the latest economic analysis by Confindustria Moda, the Italian Textile-Clothing industry is going through a complex phase in the first quarter of 2025.
Despite the difficulties, 48% of the member companies involved in the survey expect market conditions to remain stable in the coming months, while more than a fifth expect an increase in turnover.
In this scenario, technological innovation and digitalisation become key levers for relaunching competitiveness and industrial vision.
The objective of the SAMAB event is clear: to accelerate the adoption of advanced technologies, promote process efficiency, enhance skills and integrate sustainability, digitalisation and new production models.
The visitors? Over 3,000 professionals, 12% of them from 25 foreign countries, including operators representing some of the most prestigious international brands. SAMAB stands out precisely as a platform for internationalisation and the development of targeted professional relationships, thanks to a structured matchmaking programme with 21 international buyers from key countries for European manufacturing, including Albania, Egypt, Morocco, Poland, Germany, Serbia and Tunisia.
Anne Cavassa, recently become president and CEO of PrimaLoft – a company specializing in high performance, sustainable insulation -, is fostering a culture of innovation at PrimaLoft, with a focus on developing industry-leading products that elevate performance while reducing environmental impact. Her passion for sustainability, innovation, and the outdoors perfectly aligns her personal values with PrimaLoft’s purpose to unleash the full potential of people, product and planet.
Erika Enquist, PrimaLoft Senior Manager of Global Quality and Sustainability, guides us through the company’s thinking on the subject of sustainability.
“Today’s consumers are more informed than ever, and as a result, their demand for sustainable products is at an all-time high. However, given greenwashing concerns in the industry, they’re also more skeptical than ever. Consumers deserve to know the facts about what’s behind the products they purchase. That’s why PrimaLoft is committed to radical transparency with our partners and the end consumer. Whether it’s through our annual Relentlessly Responsible Report, partner events, or social media, we are always looking for new ways to ensure transparency. We continue to place a strong emphasis on certifications, which has enabled us to maintain transparency in our sustainability claims and ESG efforts.”
But PrimaLoft seems to focus not only on the products it markets, as Enquist reveals: “PrimaLoft has long established itself as an industry leader, delivering the high performance, sustainable innovations that fuel the outdoor industry. However, we understand that there is opportunity for us to expand beyond product sustainability and embrace a more holistic approach. We are proud to announce that starting this year, our flagship PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation is now produced exclusively using the company’s innovative PrimaLoft® P.U.R.E.™ manufacturing technology. This groundbreaking manufacturing method reduces carbon emissions by 50% or greater, compared to traditional methods. This transition represents the first step towards applying the technology across PrimaLoft’s product portfolio, with fellow legacy products PrimaLoft® Silver and PrimaLoft® Black expected to convert in the next two years.”
2024 has been a difficult year for fashion in general and for Made in Italy itself, for reasons ranging from geopolitics to the increase in raw material prices, to changes in consumer habits. And 2025 does not start under the best auspices, with a turnover that according to the Fashion economic trends of Camera della moda will stop at 96 mld, ie – 5.3%, with even stronger declines for clothing, shoes, leather goods (while the other sectors such as eyewear, beauty and jewellery are positive). The appointment with the Luxury Summit of Il Sole 24 Ore was an opportunity to question the present and especially the future of a sector, such as fashion, which seems to be called today to reinvent itself, increasingly in an eye for uniqueness and high quality.
Quality is at the heart of luxury
This is the concept that Fabio Tamburini, Director of Il Sole 24 Ore, strongly emphasized at the opening of the work: “luxury is one of the pillars of the Italian manufacturing industry. And I didn’t say the big fashion brands. This is because luxury has as its great strength the chain of very high specialties that guarantees an exceptional quality, true strength of Italian luxury”. A concept also reinforced by Federico Silvestri, Managing Director of Gruppo 24 ORE, who said that the fascination of Made in Italy lies precisely in the quality of the product. Hence also the overcoming of the problem of duties introduced by the USA: “We remember – said Tamburini – that the world is big and that closed a door, opens a door: the Middle East for example, but also Europe, India, East Asia. It is necessary to take the case back in hand and go discover new markets, as was done in the past”.
The new luxury is sharing and belonging
As always very ‘disrupting’ the position of Silvio Campara, CEO of Golden Goose, a brand that has recorded enviable growth rates, which boasts two factories and 265 owned shops and is present in 74 countries around the world. Campara started from a fact: “Today the so-called ‘luxury’, that is all products sold from 500 euro up per transaction, It loses 50% in acquisition (acquisition of new customers) and 37% in retention (customer loyalty). 85% of this ‘luxury’ should be represented by the 16-45 generation, which in reality represents only 7-8%. Why? Because this target generation no longer has the needs and dreams of the previous ones”. If, in the past, life was marked by stages to be reached – first the study, then the career, and gradually they put aside money to buy the house but also the symbols of these achievements achieved, – the luxury watch, the beautiful car, the signed dress, etc. , today with the advent of mobile phones, the mechanisms that previously fed the so-called ‘desire industry’ have been completely overturned. “Today everything is temporary, today the coolest thing lasts at most three days, and there is no more frenzy of waiting”. That’s why, says Campara, shows and collections no longer interest anyone. Today the consumer no longer needs to ‘appear’, he needs to ‘belong’, because all those who were the great idealistic poles of the past – religion, politics etc – have failed.
The consumer no longer wants to be considered as a mere spectator – so I organize the mega event, the super show, you come, see the collection, you fall in love with it and go home happy and ready to buy -. The consumer today wants to be heard in his needs, he wants to build a relationship with the brand side by side. This is the secret of the success of Golden Goose: sharing with the consumer a culture, the culture of the search for the best self-expression. “Today you have to go from selling a product, to inspiring the consumer. People want a corner where they can decide. The consumer is not a spectator, he is part of a relationship. The product is not made for us, but for others. You have to train the empathic aspect”. An example? “Ralph Lauren, a brand that has recorded + 88% in the stock market in the last 5 years and +33% in the last 24 months. Did you change anything from the formula of the Madison Avenue house in autumn and the Hamptons house in summer? No! He did a small thing though, he created inside all the stores a little corner where the consumer feels at home, where he can drink a good coffee. And boom! “.
The supply chain at its centre
Sergio Tamborini, President of Confindustria Moda Federazione Tessile e Moda, recently signed the final text of the new national collective labour agreement, Highlighted the importance of protecting a sector that has been underestimated by government policy until now and which has its beating heart in the supply chain: “Beyond the glamorous aspect of fashion shows, fashion is the country’s second largest manufacturing facility and has a total trade balance of 30 billion, with 60% of exports. Yet, politics has always considered fashion a second-rate sector, perhaps because its realities were too small to be heard, as it was in the automotive industry. The country still lacks an industrial policy for the fashion sector. The risk, at this stage, is to lose parts of the supply chain and if this should happen, we risk losing the entire supply chain”. In this framework, he stressed, emerges the importance of the renewal of the national collective agreement, to defend and for the relaunch of the production chain of textile clothing fashion.
Also Giovanna Ceolini, President of Confindustria Accessori Moda, highlighted how the awareness of the importance of the fashion sector for the country of Italy and as missing a protection of such a unique and fundamental supply chain. “The French fashion chain is no longer there, while the Italian one has been able to overcome deep crises such as that of Covid. Yet there is no protection of any kind, there are no technical figures. We must invest in training but also protect small businesses and this is what we are trying to do as an association, to be stronger interlocutors at the table with politics”.
The importance of the supply chain was also stressed by Carlo Capasa, President of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, who said that in Italy the brand and the supply chain are one. “Italian fashion puts creativity at the centre and makes marketing flow from it, not vice versa as happens outside national borders. But creativity is only possible because the companies are geographically close to each other and communicate with each other: this is the supply chain. And the Italian chain is unique in the world. This is the creativity that has made us famous in the world, and we must preserve it. That’s why the brands produce in Italy”.
The problem of training Stefania Lazzaroni, General Director of the Altagamma Foundation, reported on the experience of ‘Adopt a school’ by Altagamma, a training project involving 60 large brands (from Moncler to Boffi to Ducati) that have ‘adopted’ a technical vocational school, with the aim of protecting and enhancing the supply chain. “Currently in Italy the need for manufacturing talent is about 240 thousand people in seven different sectors that Altagamma represents (fashion, design, food, hospitality, engines) but only 50% of this need will be met due to the disaffection of young people and training gaps”.
Small brands to relaunch the sector Massimiliano Bizzi, President and Founder of White, highlighted the importance of developing and supporting small brands as a lever for relaunching the entire sector: “I find that today fashion has moved away from the consumer, fashion is now ‘little fashionable’. We must realize that there is low cost and that there is a need for novelty, but not in the sense understood in the past. Retail is in difficulty all over the world and buys less than it used to be. Ostentation no longer works. And fashion must know how to observe society and respond to change. Today society is about food, travel, and low cost”. Bizzi also reported on the experience of White, who celebrated 25 years of success and who changed the way to be proud, focusing on scouting and supporting niche and research brands. “We try to understand which is the right brand for that type of market, unlike most other fairs that welcome companies that request it or those proposed by associations. White, on the other hand, does a deep work of research and scouting around the world”. Bizzi also stressed the importance of physical meeting between people even in business: “All of us need to still have human contact. And this is the philosophy of Purple, the new initiative we are carrying out with Fieramilano: an inclusive event, in balance between digital and physical, inspired by the Fuorisalone of the design week”.
Fashion and artificial intelligence
Andrea Ruzzi, Head of Consumer & Manufacturing Industries at Accenture Italy, explored how AI is changing the fashion world by making work faster, easier and less expensive. “For example, in e-commerce systems the use of agents capable of making recommendations to consumers has increased product conversion by 15-20%, while in marketing, The hybrid photo shooting has created greater consumer engagement thanks to the contextualization of the product created by AI. Without forgetting the prototype, where artificial intelligence has reduced costs and time, with a benefit also for the environment related to the reduction of waste”. The next step, Ruzzi recalled, is artificial intelligence agentica: “for example, if I want to go on a trip, I go to Chatgpt and tell him what I want to do and my interests. I will have a structured plan, a structured list of possible actions, but in the agency AI is taken over by another agent that operates interactively, and who goes to look at which flights can be suitable for my trip, and then match the flights of the hotels and as it interacts with me according to my preferences to build a tailor made trip”. But the further development of AI are the physical robots, which are already being worked on, equipped with spatial consciousness to interact with their environment and able to act autonomously.
Leather and deforestation will be discussed at the European Parliament on June 3. Cotance and UNIC-Italian Tanneries have organized a workshop entitled “EUDR: Is leather a factor in deforestation? – Let’s bring the facts to the European Parliament.” An important opportunity to reiterate once again that the tanning industry is not a driver of deforestation and that the inclusion of leather in the list of products subject to the Anti Deforestation Regulation is a macroscopic mistake.
The initiative, as UNIC reports, will take place from 4 to 5:30 p.m. and is “promoted by MEP Salvatore De Meo (EPP, Italy) in collaboration with representatives of the European leather industry.” On the table will be “the results of the study conducted by the Scuola Superiore Sant’Anna (University of Pisa), on the impact of the EUDR on the European leather supply chain from an economic, social and environmental point of view.”
Manuel Rios (Cotance president), Fulvia Bacchi (UNIC director) and Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano (Cotance secretary general) will speak at the workshop.
As repeatedly mentioned, the tanning sector has many good reasons to support the exclusion of its raw material from the Anti Deforestation Regulation because, as leather is a by-product of the meat industry, it is by no means a driver of animal husbandry and consequently neither of deforestation.
APLF ASEAN, Southeast Asia’s most focused B2B platform for leather, materials, and technology sourcing, heads to its third edition in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, from 13 – 15 November 2025. Following two successful editions in Bangkok, APLF ASEAN continues to build momentum as the region’s most business-oriented event for the manufacturing supply chain. Backed by decades of experience organizing international leather exhibitions in Hong Kong, APLF ASEAN is created with a purpose to connect international suppliers with Southeast Asia’s industrial sourcing network.
In a region where manufacturers heavily rely on imported materials and components to fuel exports in footwear, leather goods, and furniture, APLF ASEAN stands out by offering a curated, business-driven tradeshow experience. The event caters exclusively to manufacturers of footwear, leather goods, garment and furniture, with a unique exhibition format.
A Tradeshow Built Around the M.E.E.T. Concept
At the heart of APLF ASEAN is the M.E.E.T. concept, which defines the visitor and exhibitor journey:
* M – MATCHING: Business matchmaking between suppliers and qualified sourcing professionals, enabling direct and high-value B2B connections.
* E – EXPERIENCE: Dedicated zones to showcase leather trends and material innovations in a curated environment designed for interaction and discovery.
* E – EDUCATION: A platform for industry experts and innovators to share market insights and breakthroughs through seminars and technical sessions.
* T – TRADESHOW: A lean, focused event format delivering high-quality engagement tailored to industrial sourcing.
“Exhibitors and buyers deserve an enhanced sourcing experience in the region, and we hope APLF ASEAN can help provide that focused, high-return environment,” said Ms. Janice Lee, Director of APLF. “Our aim is to create an exhibition that fosters meaningful connections between suppliers and the right buyers, while also setting a new benchmark for leather and materials exhibitions in Vietnam.”
Leather Import Demand in Vietnam
On average, Vietnam imports over 500 million square feet of leather per year. This leather is imported from countries such as Italy, India, Brazil, and the US, with China as the principal supplier of components for footwear manufacture. Approximately 60% of the leather imported is dedicated to manufacturing footwear with leather uppers, with the balance being used to manufacture leather goods, accessories, bags and garments and the remainder used in the growing and emerging sectors of automotive and furniture upholstery.
A Strategic Platform for a Shifting Global Supply Chain
As global trade dynamics evolve and rising tariffs encourage supply diversification, Vietnam has solidified its position as a strategic manufacturing hub, especially for footwear, fashion accessories, bags, and furniture. According to forecasts, Vietnam’s leather market is projected to grow at 6–8% annually from 2024 to 2030.
With this momentum, APLF ASEAN provides international suppliers the ideal gateway to Southeast Asia. As a professionally curated, high-quality sourcing event, APLF ASEAN delivers what manufacturers in the region deserve: a new standard for the leather and material exhibition in Vietnam.
When the world of work meets school, the benefits always outweigh the efforts, on both sides. The fourth edition of the FGL Academy training project has happily concluded. From May 5 to May 22, 2025, a team of professionals from the chemical company FGL International, which has been serving the tanning industry for twenty years, made itself available to the Galileo Galilei Technological Economic Institute (ITTE) of Arzignano for an intensive course on bisphenols.
A very valuable opportunity for male and female students to be able to draw directly from the knowledge and field experience of those who work every day in the world of tanning chemistry with expertise and passion.
The program kicked off with a talk by Dr. Franca Nuti on “Analytical Methods and Specifications in the Tanning Supply Chain” addressed to the fifth classes, and then continued by involving the fourth classes in a series of meetings that ranged from theory to practical applications to laboratory analysis.
The training project this year was dedicated to “BISPHENOLS AND THE TANNERY INDUSTRY: FROM THEORY TO PRACTICE. Determination of Bisphenols in Leather with HPLC Technology.” A course of lectures conducted by the company’s professionals – Giacomo Giacomelli, Serena Matteoli, Stefano Brea and Davide Vigolo – with the coordination and support of lecturer Prof. Laura Iannone.
The course was met with great interest, so the objective of the initiative was successfully renewed: that of giving a 360-degree information to those studying tanning chemistry, making the students participate in real experiences in this sector, to prepare them with a critical eye to the work they will face in their future employment.
FGL International, part of the Lapi Group holding company, has once again demonstrated the importance of investing in the education of new generations, sharing its expertise and innovative technical solutions.
FGL Academy professionals with Francesco Lapi (second from right), president of FGL InternationalSome students from ITTE Galilei in Arzignano who participated in the FGL Academy 2025Giacomo Giacomelli during a class
Technology, sustainability and design met at Milan Design Week 2025 during the ‘Walk Wise’ talk, moderated by Matteo Pasca, director of Arsutoria Studio and Arsutoria School. The panel, held at Isola Basic Village, explored how the footwear industry is rethinking materials, processes and shoe construction to reduce its environmental impact, particularly when it comes to end-of-life shoe solutions.
Pasca opened his talk by highlighting the main trends in the global footwear market and the complexity of designing models with circularity in mind, especially considering the multi-material nature of most shoes. Presenting the FootLoop project – single-material shoes, alternative constructions and biodegradable materials – were three speakers. Each representing one of the 3 leading companies in the sector that initiated the research and development of the project.
René Medel – Senior Digital Creation Engineer at framas Group, a leading manufacturer of high-performance plastic components for the sports footwear industry. Jesus Marini Parissi – Founder of Moon Rabbit Adaptive Lab, which fuses computational design, advanced engineering and systems optimisation. Yael Joyce Vantu – Chief Product Officer of Balena, a pioneer in the development of circular materials and biodegradable solutions for fashion and footwear.
WHAT IS FOOTLOOP?
Footloop is a fully modular, mono-material shoe system, built using Balena’s compostable BioCir® material and designed to perform through both 3D printing and injection molding. The concept was guided by three core principles:
Modularity: components can be replaced, repaired, or disassembled without adhesives.
Materiality: a single circular material is used throughout.
Movement: the shoe is engineered for comfort, flexibility, and real-world performance.
The result is a shoe that redefines how we make, use, and unmake footwear, pushing the boundaries of both design and sustainability.
DESIGNING WITH SYSTEMS IN MIND: MOON RABBIT LAB’S APPROACH
As experts in computational design and digital fabrication, Moon Rabbit Lab approached Footloop not as a finished product, but as a living system, one that could adapt, move, and return to nature without leaving waste behind.
“We saw Footloop as an opportunity to redesign footwear from the inside out,” Jesus Marini Parissi shared. “Rather than layering materials or bonding incompatible parts, we focused on using a single compostable polymer, Balena’s BioCir®, to create a fully modular, multi-component shoe.”
Moon Rabbit’s design process was rooted in biomimicry and systems thinking. Drawing inspiration from natural structures, leaves, shells, and branches, they used computational tools to create geometries that were lightweight, flexible, and strong.
Each part was optimized for performance through virtual simulations before being physically prototyped. “We built digital twins for every component,” he explained. “That allowed us to run simulations, tweak performance variables, and test tolerances long before printing a single part. The material wasn’t just a passive input; it actively influenced the form.”
MANUFACTURING INNOVATION WITH FRAMAS
Known for their leadership in footwear tooling and component manufacturing, framas played a crucial role in translating design ambition into physical function. Their core challenge was to integrate a 3D-printed upper and sole both produced with Balena’s BioCir® with an injection-molded outsole, all without adhesives or chemical bonding.
“We had to fundamentally rethink how a shoe is constructed,” René Medel said. “Instead of gluing or fusing components, we designed them to lock together mechanically. This required going back to traditional shoemaking methods pre-industrial construction techniques where craftsmanship drove function.”
This mechanical interlocking system not only supports disassembly and repair but also enhances circularity by eliminating composite waste. Every connection is intentional and reversible. From a manufacturing standpoint, framas also validated BioCir® across two major platforms:
In injection molding, the material is handled similarly to thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), making it easy to integrate into existing production lines.
In FDM 3D printing, however, success depended on detailed parameter calibration,highlighting both the challenges and the opportunities of working with innovative circular materials.
BALENA’S MATERIAL AT THE CORE
At the heart of Footloop is Balena’s BioCir®, a flexible, compostable, and bio-based material designed for circularity without compromising performance. Unlike traditional polymers, BioCir® is engineered to meet the demands of industrial manufacturing while enabling multiple end-of-life pathways from recycling to composting.
What set this project apart was the ability to apply the same material across both additive and conventional production processes. Whether in filament or pellet form, BioCir® offered the durability, elasticity, and processability required to prototype, refine, and ultimately manufacture a fully modular shoe.
A NEW LOOP FOR FOOTWEAR
Footloop is more than a shoe, it’s a statement. It challenges the footwear industry to think beyond products and toward systems. From computational modelling and modular design to bio-based materials and regenerative end-of-life strategies, it shows what’s possible when collaboration replaces compromise.
Balena, framas and Moon Rabbit Adaptive Lab didn’t just create a shoe. They created a new way forward.
A moment of the ‘Walk Wise’ talk during Milan Design Week
