ArsTannery Magazine

GSC Group, Mission to the Future

“Mission to the Future” is the title of the GSC Group’s 2025 Sustainability Report.
A year of significant achievements and investments, of responsibility and innovation. “This is a path we chose to take before it became mandatory, because we believe that sustainability doesn’t wait for deadlines,” explain company representatives of the Vicenza-based leather chemicals company.

“The 2025 Report is a roadmap for the path we are building. By the end of 2026, we will present our Strategic Sustainability Plan, with measurable goals regarding emissions, resources, people, and the supply chain. The journey has only just begun.”

2025 at a glance
INVESTING TO INNOVATE
A new application laboratory: bigger, more innovative
Our new Leather Innovation Hub is a state-of-the-art facility that strengthens research, quality control, application development and technical support. A concrete investment to deliver increasingly effective and responsible solutions.

SUSTAINABILITY STARTS WITH THE PRODUCT
Responsible innovation, value across the entire supply chain
Every day, we work to develop sustainability-driven solutions, generating value for clients, partners and the local community.

PEOPLE, SAFETY AND GOVERNANCE
Culture, expertise, safety
We updated our 231 Model, reinforcing a culture of compliance and responsible governance. We continue to invest in people, training and safety, first and foremost.

TOGETHER WITH CLIENTS AND PARTNERS
Building value, together
Sustainability isn’t built alone. It’s built together, by sharing goals, tools and responsibilities across the entire supply chain. This Report speaks to our supply chain, not just to the market.

In the video below, Dr. Francesco Serafini presents the Report—prepared in accordance with recognized European standards—and highlights the key investments of 2025.

LAPI ENSEMBLE 75|60: A STORY THAT CONTINUES TOBE WRITTEN TOGETHER

On July 17, Lapi Group celebrated an important triple anniversary with Lapi Ensemble, the event organized in Santa Croce sull’Arno (Pisa) to mark the 75th anniversary of Lapi Group and its founding company, Figli di Guido Lapi, as well as the 60th anniversary of Lapi Gelatine. The event’s title evokes the concept of a musical ensemble, symbolizing the ability of people, companies, and expertise to work in harmony toward a shared vision of the future.
The event was attended by employees, shareholders, long-time collaborators, and institutional representatives, in a gathering dedicated not only to celebrating the Group’s history but also to strengthening ties with the local community and defining future prospects.
The company’s origins date back to 1951, when Francesco, Mario, and Dino Lapi founded Figli di Guido Lapi, expanding the chemical products business their father had started in the 1930s. Over the decades, the family has contributed significantly to the development of the Tuscan tanning district, promoting technological innovations, processes geared toward the circular economy, and a growing openness to international markets. Among the most significant milestones were the testing of mimosa extract for vegetable tanning in 1962 and the support provided to tanneries in the Leather District following the 1966 flood, thanks to the supplies of tannins available in the company’s warehouses.
Today, the Lapi Group is an international industrial company with consolidated revenue of 152 million euros in 2025, approximately 350 employees, and operations in the industrial chemicals, fashion, and gelatin and collagen production sectors for food, pharmaceutical, and nutraceutical applications.
The celebration took place in two parts: first at the Teatro Verdi in Santa Croce sull’Arno, featuring speeches by management and regional and local officials, and later at the historic Villa Lapi, the Group’s headquarters, where guests enjoyed guided tours, an aperitif, and dinner accompanied by music from the Empoli Jazz Association.
As President Francesco Lapi emphasized, the event was intended to pay tribute to the family’s entrepreneurial history, highlighting above all the people who made its growth possible. “Lapi Ensemble” thus became a statement of intent: to continue building the future by leveraging collaboration, innovation, and strong roots in the local community. Among the guests who attended the celebration were Eugenio Giani, president of the Tuscany Region; Antonio Mazzeo, vice president of the Regional Council; and the mayors of Santa Croce sull’Arno, Castelfranco di Sotto, and San Miniato.

Francesco and Tommaso Lapi, president and vice president of the Lapi Group, respectively
Eugenio Giani, president of the Tuscany Region, attended the celebration
Roberto Lapi, past president of Lapi Group
The mayors of the Tuscan leather-producing district
A moment from the party

Everyone to Paris for Expoprotection 2026

This year, the Paris trade show stands out on the international calendar of events dedicated to workplace safety. Expoprotection is scheduled for November 3–5, 2026, at Porte de Versailles, featuring approximately 660 exhibitors (more than half of whom are international) who will showcase the latest innovations in prevention, protection, PPE, workwear, first aid, components, environmental risks, and fire safety. More than 17,000 professionals are expected to attend to discover market trends and innovations firsthand, meet leading experts, and select the best solutions to protect employees and organizations from all the risks and threats to which they are exposed.

Every two years in Paris, Expoprotection brings together a comprehensive range of solutions—unique in France—that allows risk management professionals to discover market trends and innovations, meet top-level experts, and recruit solution providers to protect their employees and organizations from all the threats they face.
The latest solutions in the professional, industrial, and fire safety sectors will take center stage, offering the opportunity to meet new suppliers and test the latest innovations. Among the announced exhibitors are numerous footwear manufacturers, including brands such as Cofra, Reebok, PIP Global Safety, U-Power, and Sparco.

In addition to the products on display, the Paris event offers, as always, a comprehensive program of conferences, hands-on workshops, and live demonstrations. Renowned experts will share their insights on current and future challenges in security and risk management.

KAVKI: Japanese culture walks into the future

At the heart of the brand’s philosophy lies not a mere nostalgic reproduction of past styles, but a bold and cosmopolitan reinterpretation, capable of engaging with international aesthetic sensibilities without ever betraying its roots. The brand’s name itself reveals the soul of the project, evoking the Kabukimono – the non-conformist and eccentric figures of the Momoyama and Edo periods, renowned for their constant defiance of the social conventions of the time. The brand’s logo also draws inspiration from Kumadori, the famous make-up worn by Kabuki theatre actors. This same expressive intensity is found in the soles of the shoes, characterised by an original pattern that reinterprets the geometric and refined beauty of Japanese family crests, specifically that of the Maeda family. KAVKI brings together Japan’s rich cultural heritage with environmental sustainability and technological functionality. Traditional Japanese craftsmanship has always maintained an intrinsic and respectful connection with nature, a value that the brand carries forward into the future. An example of this synergy is the use of washi paper, sourced exclusively from sustainably managed forests, with full respect for the environment. As well as being eco-friendly, this material offers extraordinary technical performance, such as excellent natural breathability – an ideal property for Japan’s hot and humid climate – and one that today provides unrivalled comfort in urban settings.


Pidigi acquires Sympatex: a global giant in eco-sustainable technical fabrics is born

Pidigi S.p.A., a global player in innovation and the supply of solutions for the footwear, leather goods and technical apparel sectors, has announced the acquisition of the core assets of Sympatex Technologies GmbH, a strategic move that further strengthens the company’s international positioning in the high-performance and sustainable fabrics sector. The acquisition builds on a long-standing collaboration between the two companies. Pidigi has in fact been working with Sympatex for decades, particularly in the footwear segment and in tape production technologies, integrating Sympatex laminates and membranes into its own product solutions. Through the acquisition, Pidigi will continue Sympatex’s operations, preserving its internationally recognised brand, technological know-how and key operational facilities.

Founded in 1953 and headquartered in Verona, Pidigi is a family-owned company specialized in the development and production of technical components, tapes, laminates and performance solutions for footwear, apparel and industrial applications. The company operates globally through long-standing partnerships with leading international brands.

In addition to its eight international branches, Pidigi integrates its global organizational structure, which is mainly based in the EU and Mediterranean area, with that of Sympatex, which is present in Asia as well as in the EU.

Sympatex, headquartered in Unterföhring near Munich, since 1986 is internationally recognized for its expertise in high-performance membrane technologies for footwear, apparel, workwear, protective equipment and technical applications. Its polyester-based, PFAS-free membrane technologies are known for combining waterproofness, windproofness, breathability and recyclability.

“The acquisition of Sympatex is a natural evolution of a partnership built over many years on trust, shared values and complementary expertise – commented Giorgio De Gara, owner and managing director of Pidigi -. We have always admired Sympatex’s technological capabilities, strong brand identity and commitment to sustainability. We are proud to welcome Sympatex into the Pidigi family and to support the next phase of its development.”

“By combining Sympatex’s membrane technologies and international reputation with Pidigi’s industrial capabilities, operational flexibility and global market presence, we are creating a strong platform for future growth. We see significant opportunities across footwear, apparel, workwear and technical applications, where performance, sustainability and innovation are becoming increasingly central.”

As part of the transaction, Pidigi will retain the core operational structure of Sympatex, including the Unterföhring site near Munich, key international offices and a substantial part of the workforce. The international locations in France, China and Hong Kong, as well as the Korean sales office, will continue operations under the new ownership structure.

The integration aims to ensure continuity for customers, partners and suppliers while creating operational and commercial synergies across the entire value chain. Pidigi intends to further develop Sympatex’s international business and strengthen investments in sustainable material technologies and advanced functional applications.

AICC: Let’s work together to build the future

“Beyond Parochial Interests: When the Supply Chain Networks.” A title that already encapsulates the message of the AICC Tuscany Region Annual Conference, held on July 9 at Villa Sonnino in San Miniato. Reinforcing this message is an equally significant subtitle: “The goal is right: the path is built together.” A clear call to work as a team to tackle the major challenges facing the leather supply chain—from regulations to compliance, from sustainability to new prospects for the tanning industry.

Tomaso Pellegrini, president of AICC

The proceedings were opened by the new AICC president, Tomaso Pellegrini, who, after thanking his predecessors, reiterated a concept that would serve as the central theme of the entire day: “Together, by supporting one another, we can build the future. Let’s also try to address problems from different perspectives.”

Dario Nardella, Member of the European Parliament

Among the most anticipated speeches was that of Member of the European Parliament Dario Nardella, who has long been supportive of the sector’s concerns and is known for his commitment to excluding leather from the EUDR regulation. “Parochialism is anachronistic and harmful,” he stated, once again emphasizing the value of collaboration among stakeholders in the supply chain. Nardella then updated those present on the ongoing debate in Brussels regarding some of the most sensitive issues for the sector, including restrictions on polymers, PFAS, and bisphenols. “We are working to ensure that decisions on these matters are based on sound and accurate scientific data,” he explained. The Member of the European Parliament also returned to the topic of the EUDR, emphasizing that “when the sector presents a united front, results follow,” and finally announced the launch of a cross-party working group in the European Parliament dedicated to revitalizing the fashion and textile sector.
The presentations titled “Driving Change: The Tanning Sector’s Proactive Approach,” delivered by Giulia Martin and Marta Montanari of UNIC – Concerie Italiane, explored, on the one hand, the latest technical updates regarding the EUDR and, on the other, the challenges related to environmental regulations posed by rules such as Ecodesign and the Digital Product Passport.
Tiziana Gambicorti, head of AICC Tuscany and chair of CEN/TC 289 and IUC, presented a report focused on “New Analytical Methods for Tanning: The Case of Fluorine and Beyond” and reported on the work currently underway in technical working groups to develop and validate analytical methods that are still lacking, such as the method for total fluorine.
In his remarks, Federico Brugnoli, CEO of Spin360, explained the importance of the new “Guidelines” for measuring the environmental footprint of leather, recently published by the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO), which establish a fundamental principle: that leather is an animal byproduct that is “non-determinative” for environmental change. Developed with technical support from SPIN 360, the UNIDO recommendations represent a major step forward in the proper recognition of leather as a circular material.
The floor was then given to Alberto De Conti, Sector Lead – Formulators at ZDHC, who outlined the latest developments in the Chemicals to Zero (CTZ) initiative, which this year introduced an additional level of chemical compliance—called “Aspirational” —following the “Progressive” level, which had been the highest to date. “It represents an opportunity,” explained De Conti, “to further differentiate oneself in the market by transforming technical effort into reputation.”
Sabrina Frontini, director of ICEC, outlined the changes introduced by the new European directives and the challenges the sector faces in balancing the needs of the leather supply chain. She described the current context as “a perfect storm” for companies in the sector, inviting them to view the Italian Certification Institute as “a beacon and a shield” during this phase of transformation.

Cecilia Polizzi, a professor at the University of Florence, concluded the series of presentations by discussing “Networking on Water Treatment” and highlighting the importance of the Meta project, which has unfortunately been hampered by a lack of funding.
The event concluded with a roundtable discussion on the central theme of the event, “Beyond Silo Thinking: When the Supply Chain Networks,” moderated by journalist and founder of Solo Moda Sostenibile, Silvia Gambi. During the debate and the Q&A session with the audience, concerns emerged among leather chemists regarding the growing proliferation of compliance requirements imposed by brands, the excessive number of certifications currently on the market, and the ever-tightening of these requirements.


A moment from the closing roundtable discussion, which included all the conference speakers

Making of: Arsutoria School, June 2026

M&M Academy Hub organized by Arsutoria School for the trade fairs MICAM Milano and MIPEL

More than 40 companies from the footwear and leather goods supply chain took part in a project that transformed Hall 5 at Rho Fiera into a live manufacturing hub. Over 500 students observed production firsthand through MICAM Academy (a customizable barefoot shoe) and MIPEL Factory (a personalized star-shaped leather charm). Result: over 50 customized shoes and 300 charms. The area will return for the September 2026 edition.

Arsutoria School and Volumental join forces to bring ‘scientific fitting’ into the classroom

An announcement of the collaboration with Volumental: starting in September, a 3D foot scanner will allow students to design footwear based on scientific data on foot morphology, with input from Ales Jurca (VP of Footwear Research at Volumental).

Arsutoria School towards 100 years

An interview with director Matteo Pasca on the occasion of the school’s 99th anniversary (April 15, 2026). Topics include the move to the Certosa District with Istituto Secoli, the goal of building a fashion technical education ecosystem in Milan, and future challenges posed by AI versus technical skills. Includes a tribute by Paolo Marenghi to Adriano Lunati, the school’s historic pattern-making master.

Infinite Shoe by Arsutoria School: Golden Goose, Brustia Alfameccanica, and Puntozero3D are the project partners

A research project approved by Regione Lombardia (the “Next Fashion” call) focused on the circularity of Made in Italy sneakers. Arsutoria is the lead partner for circularity metrics, Golden Goose the industrial partner, Brustia Alfameccanica handles disassembly processes, and Puntozero3D contributes additive manufacturing solutions. The goal: rethinking the end-of-life phase of footwear.

Designing 3D lasts. The new Arsutoria course in collaboration with NewLast

An in-depth look at the module dedicated to shoe lasts, with interviews with Paolo Marenghi (Arsutoria) and Andrea Galbiati (NewLast). It covers the digital revolution NewLast has brought to the sector (scanning, editing software) and its limits compared to human creativity. Includes a box on NewLast Group’s thirty-year history.

3D Bag Design: the course combining Rhinoceros and CLO3D in the workflow of the digital bag designer

An overview of the new intensive 5-week course taught by Laura La Marca: two weeks on metal hardware design with Rhinoceros, three weeks on CLO3D for building the bag’s virtual prototype, responding to the industry’s growing demand for “digital twins” in leather goods.

Leather excluded from the scope of the EUDR

On July 13, the European Commission published the delegated act that updates and simplifies the list of products covered by the European Union Deforestation Regulation (EUDR). The final text confirms what had already been outlined in the draft released in May: cattle hides, at any stage of processing, will not fall within the scope of the regulation.
This is an important milestone for the tanning sector and the associations representing it, including UNIC – Concerie Italiane and Cotance, which have been engaged on this issue since the legislative process began in 2021. This is a significant result, but it represents a crucial step rather than the final stage of the process.


The Commission’s Rationale
The comments gathered during the public consultation period reinforced the Commission’s position on the appropriateness of excluding bovine leather from the EUDR. Brussels recognizes that hides and skins are a byproduct of the livestock industry and that tanneries lack the necessary tools to obtain all the information required by the regulation.
The Commission also points out that including only bovine leather—without extending the requirements to finished leather products—would have created a market distortion. Such a decision, rather than reducing the risks associated with deforestation, would simply have shifted those risks to other areas of the global market.


Next Steps
With the publication of the delegated act and its notification to the Council of the European Union and the European Parliament, a two-month scrutiny period now begins. Although the Parliament may request an extension of the scrutiny period, this seems unlikely.
If no objections are raised by September 13, the act will be published in the Official Journal of the European Union and will definitively enter into force. At that point, the exclusion of bovine leather from the scope of the EUDR will also become official.

The IULTCS World Congress will be held in Italy in 2029

At the AICC Conference held on July 9, it was announced that the IULTCS (International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies) has entrusted Italy and the Italian Association of Leather Chemists (AICC) with organizing the 2029 IULTCS World Congress, which will follow the event scheduled to take place in Mexico in October 2027.
The Italian bid was presented by Tomaso Pellegrini, recently elected president of the AICC. The proposal highlighted the leading role of the Italian tanning industry—internationally recognized for the excellence of its integrated supply chain—by offering a scientific program focused on innovation, sustainability, the circular economy, and digital transformation. The proposal also includes technical visits to Italy’s main tanning districts and opportunities for dialogue and collaboration between the research and industrial communities. The IULTCS Executive Committee, consisting of twenty members, unanimously approved the project.
The 2029 edition of the Congress will take on even greater significance as it will coincide with the 125th anniversary of the founding of the AICC, celebrating over a century of commitment to promoting leather science and technology.
“We are deeply honored by the trust that IULTCS has placed in the AICC and the entire Italian leather industry,” said President Tomaso Pellegrini. “We look forward to welcoming colleagues from around the world and organizing a conference that will highlight scientific excellence, promote innovation, and strengthen international cooperation.”
The organizational phase will now begin, which includes establishing the Organizing Committee, selecting the host city for the Congress, and finalizing the scientific program.
Past experience suggests this will be a major event. One need only recall the success of the EuroCongress organized by the AICC in September 2022, titled “Rinascimento: The Next Leather Generation,” which attracted approximately 520 participants from 21 countries, confirming the Association’s ability to promote events of international scope.

IULTCS World Congress: see you in León in 2027

It’s still more than a year away, but people are already starting to talk about the 39th IULTCS Congress, scheduled to take place in León, Mexico, from October 25 to 28, 2027. The flagship event of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS), which is held every two years in a different country, promises to be more significant than ever. First and foremost, this is due to the host city’s significance and appeal to the leather sector: León is the heart of one of the world’s leading leather-producing regions and will offer delegates the opportunity to gain firsthand insight into the Mexican leather industry.
This time, the host will be the León Association of Leather Chemists and Technologists (AQTCL), which will work in collaboration with the Guanajuato State Chamber of the Tanning Industry (CICUR). Their shared goal is to bring together scientists, technicians, researchers, manufacturers, brands, chemical suppliers, machinery experts, and sustainability leaders from around the world.
In line with the IULTCS’s statutory objectives, the conference will serve as a global platform for sharing the latest advances in science, technology, and innovation in the leather sector, while encouraging collaboration across the entire leather supply chain.
Participants will have the opportunity to connect with international experts, decision-makers, universities, brands, tanners, and suppliers, exchanging ideas and innovations that can help shape the next generation of leather production.
For more details, visit https://congressiultcsleon2027.mx