Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Magazine

Towards ‘integral’ sustainability

The textile industry is undergoing profound changes, and the principles of the circular economy, traceability, and sustainable innovation are essential for the resilience and competitiveness of businesses in a challenging economic environment. The next frontier of sustainability in the textile sector requires innovation, regulatory alignment, and the adoption of new, regenerative, circular business models. To explore these priorities, the Ecomondo & AISEC (Italian Association for the Development of the Circular Economy) Scientific Technical Committee has invited industry experts and presented successful case studies.

Sustainability and the EU

According to Guido Bellitti (Studio Chiomenti), 2025 has seen a scaling back of the Green Deal’s ambitions, with a trend toward simplification and deregulation, as evidenced by Omnibus 1. This has lightened the compliance burden for businesses but has also created legal uncertainty for those that had already begun investing to comply with CSRD and CSDDD. At the same time, competition authorities have stepped up scrutiny of unfair practices in the fashion sector (e.g. labor exploitation and greenwashing). The approval of the Green Claims Directive — currently stalled — remains crucial to providing legal certainty around sustainable communications.

Ecodesign and Traceability

Eleonora Foschi (ENEA) notes that the Ecodesign Regulation, in force since last July, identifies textile products as a priority, defining 16 criteria and introducing tools such as the digital product passport. ENEA is supporting SMEs in Italian textile districts (Biella, Prato) through the compliance process. A pilot study in Emilia-Romagna found that many companies have over 500 suppliers, making traceability highly complex. Rinaldo Rinaldi (University of Florence) stresses that the value of Made in Italy is increasingly shifting from material quality to production process transparency, requiring complete, accurate, and interoperable data across all actors in the supply chain.

The Districts

Valerio Barberis highlights the strategic role of Italian cities, which generate 80% of European GDP. Industrial and artisan districts, such as the textile district of Prato (accounting for 3% of European textile production), should be regarded as circularity laboratories. Dedicated national policies are needed, as current regulations risk hindering the good local practices already underway.

Partnerships for Innovation

Raffaella Arista (Studio Legale Improda) illustrates how patents and partnership agreements are enabling innovation in sustainable materials. A prime example is Orange Fiber, which produces a fabric from the cellulose found in orange juice by-products, already adopted by Ferragamo. Collaborative business networks are also emerging, such as Innovation for Luxury — an open network involving major players including Louis Vuitton — focused on sharing projects around innovation, digitalization, and sustainability.

The Recycling Sector

Attila Kiss (Gruppo Florence) highlights the sector’s challenges: few mature technologies, limited demand, and a prevalence of “down cycling” over genuine recycling, with high costs making recycled materials poorly competitive. Gruppo Florence, with 5,000 employees, aims to drive change through aggregation, material sorting, and creative collaboration with brands. Louis Vuitton also takes a structured approach to circularity: it operates around ten repair centers worldwide, carrying out 500,000 repairs per year, practices eco-design, and has introduced a repairability index (A, B, C), with the goal of having 85% of its collection classified as A or B.

Henkel initiates acquisition of Stahl

On February 4, Henkel announced that it had reached an agreement to acquire the Dutch group Stahl for €2.1 billion. The chemical company employs approximately 1,700 people and reported sales of approximately €725 million in fiscal year 2025.

Majority-owned by French private equity firm Wendel SE (minority shareholders include BASF and Clariant, which together hold 30% of the shares), Stahl is a leader in the field of high-performance specialty coatings for flexible materials, providing solutions to leading brands in the automotive, fashion & lifestyle, and packaging sectors worldwide. The portfolio includes coatings for leather finishing, high-performance coatings for paper packaging, and graphic applications.

Carsten Knobel, CEO of Henkel

“With the acquisition of Stahl,” said Carsten Knobel, CEO of Henkel, “we will further strengthen our Adhesive Technologies business unit in line with our strategic agenda. This transaction will enable us to expand in the specialty coatings category, with a product offering for our core markets and new application segments.”

 

For its part, Stahl aims to further strengthen its focus on the high-performance specialty coatings segment. As for activities related to the tanning sector, it should be noted that Stahl’s wet end division had already been spun off from the group with the creation at the end of 2025 of MUNO, a new independent company based in Milan that presents itself as a global supplier specializing in solutions for the wet end of tanning and is led by CEO Xavier Rafols.

 

 

 

 

 

Rino Mastrotto Rino Mastrotto will save 7.5 million liters of water this year

Rino Mastrotto announces that it will save 7.5 million liters of water in 2026, the equivalent of three Olympic swimming pools or the capacity of 250 large industrial tankers. This is the result of the sustainable “Hearth” line, an innovative tanning process created by the Trissino-based group that reduces water consumption by 91% and chemical consumption by 23%, as well as reducing CO2 emissions by 22%.

The water saving data was announced at Lineapelle, the most important international trade fair in the sector, held at Fiera Milano Rho from February 11 to 13.

The new collection

At Lineapelle, Rino Mastrotto presented its new spring/summer 2027 collection, “Origini,” for the first time. Born from the need to rediscover the beauty of everyday life in an increasingly uncertain and unstable present, “Origini” celebrates a return to the tangible. This season’s inspirations move away from artificial and digital visions to rediscover the warmth and emotion of touch, the breath of matter through light textures that play with light and create timeless elegance. With this new collection, Rino Mastrotto invites us to rediscover our own reality made up of sincere emotions and authentic connections.

With “Origini,” color ceases to be merely aesthetic and becomes a language: a skillful use of shades translates emotions into a profound and vibrant visual narrative. Starting with whites and bleached tones that evoke serenity and light, we move on to blues, light blues, and greens that encapsulate the fresh and regenerating essence of water. Beige, earthy pinks, and khaki create a bridge between the purity of nature and metropolitan dynamism, enveloping the space in an atmosphere of calm and elegance. Browns, traditionally associated with winter, acquire a new softness and sensuality thanks to the summer light, while yellows and oranges infuse the season with a vital energy, vibrant like the sun.

Who is Rino Mastrotto

A strategic partner of leading luxury brands, Rino Mastrotto is based in Trissino, in the province of Vicenza. The Group, owned by the Prada Group, employs over 1,500 people across five continents and recorded a turnover of €327.8 million in 2024.

Rino Mastrotto encompasses numerous companies and brands specializing in the luxury segment. In Italy, in the high fashion sector, Basmar and Pomari, Nuova Osba, Conceria Superior, Tannerie Limoges, Tessitura Oreste Mariani, and Mapel stand out on the international scene as benchmarks in the luxury leather goods, footwear, and clothing supply chain. These are companies of excellence, sought after both for the uniqueness of their products and for their attention to practices.

Rino Mastrotto is also active in the automotive sector with the Italian company Brusarosco and the Swedish company Elmo Leather; in interior design with the Italian division of Rino Mastrotto, the Swedish company Elmo Leather, the North American distribution subsidiary Carroll Leather; and in textiles with Jacqart, the new company created in July 2025 from the agreement between Rino Mastrotto and the Marzotto Group. In addition, the Tuscan company Morelab stands out as a specialized provider of tailor-made services, further enriching the Group’s offering in the luxury sector.

Fashion Link Milano: from 21 February, Fiera Milano becomes the centre of the fashion world

There comes a time when coordination ceases to be a good idea and becomes a necessity. Fashion Link Milano seems to have been born at precisely that moment.

From 21 February, Fiera Milano Rho becomes the beating heart of international fashion: an integrated ecosystem that brings together five leading events — MICAM Milano and MIPEL, Milano Fashion & Jewels, Sì Sposaitalia Collezioni, The One Milano — for a total of 1,777 brands, 45% of which come from abroad. Buyers from Germany, Japan, the USA, India, the United Arab Emirates and beyond: not just a trade fair, but a geography of business.

 

From September 2026, Lineapelle and Simac Tanning Tech will also join the project, bringing the number of events involved to seven. A clear signal: Fashion Link Milano wants to connect not only finished products, but the entire supply chain — from leather to machinery, from tanning technology to shoes on the shelf and bags in the shop window.

 

Among the many new features is the new layout of Hall 5: ‘We have worked, and will continue to do so in future editions, to help buyers discover new products and calibrate their future commercial offerings through fluid, intuitive and immersive itineraries,’ say Giovanna Ceolini and Claudia Sequi, referring to MICAM and MIPEL.

 

Within this huge event, there are also the Mipel Factory and Micam Academy areas, organised by Arsutoria, where visitors and students will experience a real production environment for the first time.

 

Thanks to Fashion Link Milano, the strategic role of already established and appreciated trade fairs is thus strengthened, offering the community of international operators and buyers a hub capable of maximising opportunities and generating new style stories, a real platform for meaningful connections destined to evolve alongside the sector.

 

An entire supply chain, together again. More and more together. This is the added value that no slogan could summarise better than the facts. And the facts will be seen (for footwear and leather goods) from 22 to 24 February 2026.

ICF and Pro Well join forces to develop new products and dominate the market

Industrie Chimiche Forestali SpA (“ICF”) a leading national and international company in the design, production, and marketing of high-tech adhesives and fabrics, listed on the Euronext Growth Milan market of the Italian Stock Exchange, and Pro Well Limited / Asia announce that they have initiated discussions aimed at developing new materials and establishing technical and organizational support on a global scale for the footwear industry.

The two Companies are evaluating how best to leverage their respective technical expertise, manufacturing capabilities, and knowledge of local markets in Europe and Asia with the objective of serving global footwear brands more effectively, while maintaining operational independence in their respective geographical areas.

The potential collaboration would focus on strengthening regional presence and integrating complementary strengths in order to offer new materials aligned with specific needs of local manufacturers.

Guido Cami, President of Industrie Chimiche Forestali SpA: “In an increasingly globalized footwear industry, dialogue and cooperation between leading organizations operating in different regions of the world can generate significant opportunities in terms of innovation and service. Asia represents a key market and we are pleased to explore potential sinergies with Prowell, whose expertise and knowledge of the local areas are widely recognized.”

The Utility Diadora Vortex campaign kicks off

A few months after its official launch, Utility Diadora kicks off its major communication campaign dedicated to Vortex. The video commercial depicts a dialogue between two parallel worlds that Utility, thanks to its know-how, brings together: sport and work. United by the same logic of preparation and performance, these universes merge in the gestures of Larissa Iapichino and Ducati Corse with Marc Marquez: the two champions become the face of a determination that is reflected in Vortex work footwear.

The plan includes cross-media coverage: the heart of the campaign will be TV, with significant presence on Mediaset networks in prime time, using the simultaneous ‘All 21’ format and positioning in top programs such as La Ruota della Fortuna, in the main news and sports programs, as well as at the start of the Coppa Italia quarter-finals. The plan extends to streaming TV on DAZN and includes a strong presence on national radio, in the daily press, and through a widespread digital strategy.

Sold out for the Salone del Mobile

The countdown is on for the 64th edition of Salone del Mobile.Milano (April 21-26, Fiera Milano, Rho): more than 1,900 exhibitors (36.6% from abroad), 227 brands between debuts and returns, over 169,000 square meters of net exhibition space completely sold out. At the center of it all is the eagerly awaited return of the Biennials: EuroCucina with FTK – Technology For the Kitchen, featuring 106 brands from 17 countries, and the International Bathroom Exhibition, which will bring together 163 brands from 14 countries. Completing the picture is SaloneSatellite with 700 designers under 35 and 23 international schools and universities. Accompanying this is an endless list of events for the Fuorisalone, which will involve a myriad of locations scattered throughout the city, which is preparing to welcome 300,000 visitors.

“In the midst of a geopolitical and economic phase marked by profound discontinuity and new polarities,” commented President Maria Porro at the press conference, “the Salone del Mobile reaffirms its role as a global strategic platform and responds to the markets with vision and continuity, presenting itself as a fixed point in an unstable time: a place where industry meets, thought is articulated, and the future is planned. The sold-out exhibition space and significant increase in foreign attendance are the tangible results of an integrated and forward-looking strategy developed over time.

Contrary to all predictions, the Italian wood-furniture supply chain closed 2025 on a positive note, recording 1.3% growth over 2024 with a turnover of €52.2 billion. This is the picture painted by the preliminary figures compiled by the FederlegnoArredo Research Center and presented at the press conference launching the 2026 Salone del Mobile in Milan. Contributing to this somewhat unexpected result – given the complex global macroeconomic situation – is the performance of the domestic market, which grew by 1.8% to reach €32.9 billion. Exports remained stable (+0.4%), reaching €19.3 billion (37% of the total), despite showing signs of weakness in some strategic markets such as France and the United States. On the other hand, there are some signs of improvement and recovery coming from Germany.

“These figures,” comments Claudio Feltrin, president of FederlegnoArredo, “confirm that our supply chain has been able to implement strategies and actions for adaptation and development that have resulted in substantial stability. We certainly cannot say that we are facing a structural recovery and that we can feel safe from the turbulence that 2026 already has in store for us, but I want to see encouraging signs that we, as a Federation, have a duty to focus on in order to support our companies.”

In 2025, the furniture macro-system will achieve a production turnover of €27.7 billion, essentially stable (+0.6%) compared to 2024. The growth in production for the domestic market (€13.5 billion, +2.1%) offsets the slight decline in exports (€14.2 billion, -0.8%), which continue to account for more than half of the total value. The wood macro-system (including the wood trade) grew by 2%, reaching a turnover of €24.5 billion. However, this figure is partly determined by price trends and a recovery in exports (€5.2 billion, +3.8%). The domestic market (€19.3 billion) recorded +1.5%.

“As regards foreign markets,” adds President Feltrin, “our Research Center’s data updated to October 2025 shows an overall trend of substantial stability, with an estimated value of €19.3 billion (+0.4%), confirming the strategic importance of exports on the sector’s results. Of particular interest in the top 10 is Germany, which returned to positive growth in the first ten months of 2025 (€1.7 billion; +1%), while France continued to show weakness (€2.5 billion; -1.3%), slowing down despite a slight recovery in recent months after two years of strong expansion in 2021-2022. The United States recorded a -2.5% (1.7 billion) decline after the rebound in 2024, with monthly performance influenced by the anticipation of purchases in the spring months in view of tariffs; This was reabsorbed in July (when the cumulative percentage change was still positive at +0.3%), while in the following months exports slowed sharply, particularly in August and October.

On the other hand, positive trends are emerging in some European and non-European markets, which are helping to partially offset the decline in traditional destinations. Among the countries with the best performance in terms of increase in export value are the United Kingdom (+4.2%), the Netherlands (+8.5%), and Spain (+2.3%), which ranks fifth in the Top 10 destination markets, surpassing Switzerland. Markets such as the United Arab Emirates (+3.9%) are also growing, confirming a gradual geographical diversification of foreign sales.

Meanwhile, China continues to advance, gaining market share in both Italy and Europe. “Just think,” Feltrin points out, “that as far as the furniture macro-system is concerned, after strong growth in the second half of 2024, the first ten months of 2025 confirm the trend: +3.7% in Europe, -0.3% in Italy. On the other hand, total imports fell by 7.7%, to the benefit of China, which is gradually strengthening its competitive position in the European market, in a context of growing pressure on Italian exports.”

A moment from the press conference presenting the Salone del Mobile 2026

2025: a turning point for Italian digital commerce

The Italian Digital Commerce Consortium, which brings together over 480 companies and has been a point of reference for e-commerce and digital retail in Italy since 2005, took stock of the major changes that have occurred in online commerce and the outlook for 2026 with the close of the past year.

2025 marks a turning point for Italian digital commerce, with eCommerce becoming a national infrastructure, reaching €150 billion in shared value, equivalent to 7 percent of GDP, and employing 1.8 million people, confirming digital as our country’s great economic engine.

The distinction between physical and digital is fading thanks to omnichannel models, driven by artificial intelligence, new touchpoints, and more mature customer journeys, particularly affecting the Food & Grocery, Fashion & Beauty, and Haelth & Pharma sectors. Four out of ten in-store purchases are affected by online touchpoints. Over 35.2 million Italians buy online.

At the heart of this shift is undoubtedly greater regulation of online shopping and growing consumer confidence. The digital Euro, transparency of payments and greater protection of reviews have led to an acceleration of an ongoing process and greater dialogue between businesses, institutions and consumers.

76.5% of product purchases go through the eRetailer and 60% are now made from smartphones.

LOOKING TO 2026: ENTERING THE VALUE COMMERCE ERA

From 2026, digital will evolve into Value Commerce: data shared along the file, ‘omnichannel as a competitive standard, Al and automation to support Joumey operations and customers, and sustainability as a market lever. The new European rules —from the Digital Euro to product passports — will redefine the competitive environment. For businesses, the goal will no longer be just “selling online”, but generating economic, experiential, environmental and social value.

Valentino Garavani/Vans: Cruise Collection 2026 

This new collection features six styles that seamlessly blend Valentino’s signature style codes with Vans’ legendary Slip-On silhouette, one of the most recognizable styles in footwear history. Presented in 1977 and designed with simplicity, comfort, and a skate spirit in mind, it has seen countless color variations, collaborations, and limited editions over the years. In the Cruise 2026 collection it is presented in six unisex variants, offered in different patterns and finished with co-branded insoles. In addition to the black/red and black/pink VLogo Checkerboard, the line also includes the polka dot VLogo Checkerboard and the Tropical Leaves pattern. The edition that brings back the playful Valentino Le Chat de la Maison motif also returns, while a new feature of the collaboration is the design with the Cherryfic motif. Each pair comes in special packaging that highlights Vans’ checker motif, reimagined with Valentino’s VLogo Signature.


Sperry: the timeless icon of the sailor

A story that begins far away, that of Sperry, when Paul inherits from his family his passion for the sea and maritime tradition. One day in 1935, watching his dog run smoothly on the ice in Connecticut, Paul was born the goddess who would revolutionize boat shoes and his life: carving grooves, like those on a dog’s fingertips, into the bottom of the rubber sole to create friction. Thus was born the world’s first boat shoe with a non-slip sole, the Canvas Circular Vamp Oxford and a brand that would become iconic for sailing enthusiasts and beyond: Sperry Top Sider. The following years are a succession of successes and confirmations. From ’39, the Sperry became an official supplier to the US Army and the Canvas, produced in numerous versions, including leather, became a trendy accessory in the ’60s, also worn by the President of the United States, John Fitzgerald Kennedy. In the ’80s and ’90s, Sperry became a supplier of sailing teams and regattas such as the Withebread Round the World. A shoe that is a timeless classic, an expression of freedom and chic comfort.