Arsutoria Studio

Environmental levy also on the way for shoes

Mauro Chezzi

Anyone who has bought a fridge or a dishwasher in recent years will have spotted a line on their invoice that often goes unnoticed: ‘environmental levy paid’. Before long, the same wording could appear on the receipt for a pair of lace-ups. The scheme is called Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and is set to be introduced in Italy for clothing, footwear, textiles and leather goods. We discussed this at MICAM Milan in September 2026 with Mauro Chezzi, deputy director of Confindustria Moda – Textile and Fashion Federation and association representative for Retex.Green, the consortium for the circular economy in the fashion sector, which announced its partnership with Assocalzaturifici at the fair itself.

Let’s start with the consortium. What is Retex.Green?

We founded it in March 2022 as Confindustria Moda, together with Assocalzaturifici and other associations within the Confindustria system, to promote circularity across the entire clothing and footwear supply chain. We did so in anticipation of the regulatory changes coming from Europe, which have already begun to come into force.

What changed in July 2026?

The first requirement of the European Ecodesign Regulation, approved two years ago, has come into force. It applies to large companies with over 250 employees and prohibits the destruction of unsold garments, except in a few cases provided for by the legislation. For over a year, we have been working on circularity measures to prevent destruction and to ensure that, where it is necessary and lawful, it takes place under the strictest possible criteria.

The next phase will be EPR. When will this come into effect?

Hypothetically speaking: if, by the end of 2026, the interministerial decree signed by the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy and the Ministry of the Environment and Energy Security is published in the Official Gazette, companies will have four months to register with a consortium. Entities placing finished products on the Italian market, whether under their own brand or under licence, are obliged to comply. Small businesses will have an extra year. 

How will the eco-contribution be calculated?

Each consortium will ask its members for a declaration of the quantity placed on the national market, expressed in kilograms. Exports do not count, but imports do. Using these funds, the consortium will establish a collection and sorting chain, following this order of priority: reuse, recycling and, finally, waste-to-energy. Retex.Green will not send anything to landfill: this is a practice we believe should be phased out as soon as possible.

Who actually bears the cost?

For companies, it is a matter of outlay, not cost. The principle is ‘the polluter pays’: companies pay the eco-contribution upfront and include it on the invoice or receipt, as is already the case for household appliances. The cost falls on the end consumer, who physically generates the waste.

Not all shoes, however, are the same.

The legislation aims to reward the most circular products. The parameters currently being developed are durability, recyclability, reparability and recycled content, although the list is not yet exhaustive. Those who work on these aspects will receive bonuses, i.e. reductions in the eco-contribution. Reducing the contribution means reducing the resources the company must advance to the system.

Is the supply chain involved in any way?

The manufacturing sector has no direct obligations, but it must supply circular products to those who place them on the market, thereby securing economic benefits. This is a stated objective of the legislation: those who sell govern the supply chain and have the leverage – including commercial leverage – to require it to fall into line. The linear model – in which products are manufactured, resources are consumed and waste is disposed of – has its days numbered.

What should a footwear manufacturer do now?

Realise that it is no longer a question of ‘if’, but of ‘when’ the regulation will come into force, because there is a European directive underpinning it: at most, it will be delayed by a few months. Aligning with the regulation now is not a gamble; it is a guarantee of competitiveness. It is advisable to identify the right consortium quickly. Retex.Green has the advantage of not having started out as an EPR expert, but rather as a specialist in footwear, clothing, textiles and leather goods. We believe it is important to have a partner who understands the sector’s challenges. Our aim is to drive research and innovation in recycling.

At MICAM, you also announced an incentive.

We have signed an agreement with Assocalzaturifici and the trade fair organisers: MICAM exhibitors who join Retex.Green by 31 December 2026 will not have to pay the membership fee for 2026 and 2027.

Solo Soprani, the jewelled heel

There are shoes you look at from the toe and shoes you look at starting from the heel. Solo Soprani’s new Women’s Collection for Spring/Summer 2027 belongs to the latter category: the heel ceases to be merely a support and becomes a design object – sculptural, metallic, precious. This feature is found on slingbacks, evening sandals and pumps with clean lines, where the sleek silhouette leaves the spotlight entirely to that detail.

Around it, the materials play on contrasts and reflections: draped satin, tulle, leather, suede, crochet and metallic finishes. Then there are crystals, pearls, ribbons, bows and metallic embellishments, for a bold, uncompromising concept: footwear as jewellery. The colour palette ranges from black, nude and ivory, through rust and brown, to vibrant coral, fuchsia and green.

As the collection shifts, so does the style. The Men’s Black Label range focuses on casual elegance designed to see you through the day in style and comfort: loafers, boat shoes, driving shoes, sabots and deconstructed trainers that blur the old distinction between formal and casual wear. Suede, soft leathers, raffia inserts and espadrille-inspired detailing evoke a Mediterranean summer; lightweight constructions, exposed stitching and flexible soles complete the picture. The colours remain natural – beige, sand and various shades of brown – with navy accents that subtly evoke the nautical world.

Two styles – one dramatic, the other relaxed – held together by meticulous material research and attention to detail. The launch took place at a cocktail reception in the historic Luciano Soprani showroom at Via Morosini 30 in Milan, attended by the press, celebrities, opinion leaders and guests. A ‘new chapter’ that draws on the brand’s history to appeal to new audiences and new markets.

Pitillos refreshes its collection without compromising its identity

Three pairs of shoes in a row, side by side: olive green, ochre, cream. Woven uppers, a covered wedge heel, and fabric laces in the same colour that wrap round the ankle. This is the image chosen by Pitillos to present its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, and it already says a great deal about the direction the Spanish brand is taking.

The new line, described by the company as the meeting point between innovation, stylistic research and tradition, interprets next season’s trends with a contemporary approach. Yet it does so without compromising the three values upon which the brand has built its identity: comfort, quality and attention to detail.

The company manufactures in Arnedo, a town considered the heart of Spanish footwear production, and prides itself on ‘Made in Spain’ craftsmanship based on the selection of high-quality materials, meticulous workmanship and refined details.

It is from this region that comes a collection designed to be refreshed season after season to meet the needs of those seeking footwear that combines style, comfort and artisanal quality. Three requirements that often end up being mutually exclusive. Managing to bring them all together is the real test.

With the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Pitillos therefore continues on its path of evolution, without compromising on the expertise that has made it a benchmark in Spanish footwear.

Baldinini slows things down with Adagio Italiano and picks up the pace with the Onda trainer

In music, ‘adagio’ is a tempo marking: it asks the performer to slow down and allow each note the space to be heard. Baldinini has borrowed this concept for its Spring–Summer 2027 collection, ‘Adagio Italiano’, which the brand describes as a philosophy of living that puts time, lightness and authentic values back at the centre, in a world that is moving ever faster.

Translated into footwear, the concept becomes a relaxed elegance in which comfort, quality and freedom of movement are in perfect balance. The common theme linking the men’s and women’s ranges is the Italian Riviera. The brand’s historic hallmarks – woven finishes, laser-cut details and techniques revived from the archives – are reimagined to create a wardrobe that transitions seamlessly from formal to casual, right through to sporty styles.

The most tangible aspect of the narrative concerns materials and construction. Ultra-soft calfskin leathers, textured surfaces and perforations coexist with technical solutions such as the Reverse Goodyear welt and ultra-lightweight soles. The aim is for every style to feel like a second skin and follow the foot’s every movement.

But what happens when a collection dedicated to slowness decides to pick up the pace? The answer is Onda, a trainer that Baldinini presents as a spin-off from the collection and as the more technological side of its research. Whilst the Adagio slows things down, Onda focuses on the active dimension of movement, with a design geared towards performance and everyday dynamism. The ultra-lightweight, voluminous sole is engineered to ensure cushioning and energy return, whilst the multi-layered upper combines durability, lightness and breathability. It is available in men’s and women’s versions, with a bold and modern visual impact.

Ambitious: Italy accounts for 30 per cent of turnover

A summer that never ends. Those in the footwear industry know that, in a sense, this is exactly how it is: in September, whilst the beaches are emptying, people in the Rho Fiera exhibition halls are already talking about the next season. Ambitious, a Portuguese footwear brand, has taken the idea literally and named its Spring-Summer 2027 collection “Endless Summer”.

The stand has been completely redesigned from scratch. An immersive experience: the idea is to guide buyers and distributors through the space, amongst different product narratives, rather than lining them up in front of a wall of shelves.

Behind the brand is an industrial group reporting an average turnover of 20 million euros, 500,000 pairs produced annually and a network of over 900 retail outlets worldwide. Italy is the brand’s leading market, accounting for 30 per cent of turnover on its own.

The collection, for men and women, draws inspiration from the landscapes of Mallorca, on an imaginary journey between the sea and the mountains. The colour palette ranges from terracotta tones to washed-out and intense blues, with desaturated greens, khaki and organic neutrals. The campaign images feature white trainers with sand-coloured suede inserts and orange and green details. Natural materials, high-quality leathers, lightweight constructions and relaxed silhouettes reinterpret classic styles for everyday wear.

Finally, a sneak preview: building on over 30 years of the group’s research and development, Ambitious has announced its most comfortable model ever, designed for city life.

Induction charging and LWG leather: the new Piquadro ranges

A rucksack that charges your smartphone and a bag that brings order to your day. Put like that, it sounds like the wish list of someone who spends more time at the station than in the office. Instead, it sums up the two new leather collections from Piquadro: VICTOR, designed for business travel, and CIRCLE, a women’s range dedicated to everyday mobility.

Let’s start with VICTOR. The target audience is professionals who are constantly on the move, juggling business trips, appointments and getting about town. The leather gives the collection a professional and recognisable look, but the feature that sets it apart lies at the top of the rucksacks: a built-in induction charger, which keeps devices powered up whilst on the move. The interesting thing is where the technology ends. It’s not on show, but inside the product, discreetly, without detracting from the clean lines of the design. The interiors are organised to accommodate devices, documents and personal accessories, whilst the openings allow quick access to essential items – useful for those juggling work, travel and urban commuting.

With CIRCLE, the style changes, but the logic remains the same. The collection is aimed at women who juggle work, travel and leisure and are looking for practical accessories with attention to detail. Here, leather is the central element and defines the line’s aesthetic identity. The designs are crafted for comfort of use; pockets, compartments and organisational features keep devices, documents and personal items tidy. Clean lines, balanced proportions, no decorative excess: in this collection, femininity is conveyed through function and the quality of the leather.

What links two such different lines? One possible answer lies in the way Piquadro describes its audience: men and women who prioritise the language of design over that of fashion, and who value performance as well as style. In both collections, functionality is not flaunted. In the rucksack, the charging port is discreetly integrated; in the handbag, the internal organisation coexists with a design free from excess. The technology is there, but it is meant to be used rather than admired.

Then there is the question of materials, which applies across the entire brand. The leathers come from a supply chain certified by the Leather Working Group (LWG), the international body that developed the world’s most widely adopted sustainability protocol for the leather supply chain. The technical fabrics are all recycled. The company is carbon neutral for Scopes 1 and 2, like the Group’s other two brands, The Bridge and Lancel, and has achieved an ‘EE-’ Corporate Standard Ethics Rating (SER).

Founded in 1998 and listed on the Italian Stock Exchange since October 2007, Piquadro has a distribution network spanning over 50 countries. With VICTOR and CIRCLE, it is therefore expanding its vision of mobility: organisation, quality of leather and integrated functions, for those who travel for work and for those on the move throughout their day.


AICC, synergy, and shared expertise: the key to sustainable competitiveness

The leather chemical sector gathered on Friday, October 9, in the picturesque setting of the Hotel Lloyd’s Baia in Vietri sul Mare, in the province of Salerno, for the 54th AICC National Conference. The focus of the event was the theme “Circular Synergy: Regulations, Chemistry, and Industrial Processes—An Alliance of Expertise for Sustainable Competitiveness.”
The event, which drew a large audience, proved to be an important opportunity for in-depth discussion of the challenges that are reshaping the sector: from growing European regulatory pressure to the need to make environmental performance measurable, to new technologies capable of combining quality, innovation, and circularity.

Tomaso Pellegrini


AICC President Tomaso Pellegrini opened the proceedings by highlighting the leather chemical sector’s capacity for constant innovation, while also emphasizing the importance of collaboration throughout the supply chain. Indeed, only through the integration of diverse areas of expertise is it possible to build a truly sustainable model of competitiveness.

The program got underway with a presentation by Luca Marrucci, a researcher at the Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies in Pisa, who outlined the main provisions of the European EmpCo Directive—which has been transposed into Italian law and took effect last September—aimed at combating greenwashing. Marrucci explored the implications of the new regulation for environmental communication, which requires companies to review their sustainability claims and ensure they are supported by concrete and verifiable evidence.
The credibility of ESG strategies was the focus of the presentation by Serena Portella, Sustainability Manager at Muno, who explored the role of materiality analysis, impact assessment, and data quality in developing truly verifiable sustainability pathways. Particular attention was given to the LCA methodology, a fundamental tool for identifying critical issues in the tanning process and guiding improvement initiatives.

Serena Portella

Innovation in production processes formed the backdrop for the presentation by Marco Cazzolla, R&D Finishing Specialist at GSC Group, who presented a comparative study on the environmental impact and performance of new cross-linking agents used in finishes for the automotive sector, highlighting in particular their effectiveness when combined with ultraviolet (UV) technology.

Marco Cazzolla

Dario Manolo, Technical Manager at Icap Leather Chem, spoke about the industry’s efforts toward more responsible chemistry without compromising the quality and technical performance of the finished leather. He outlined the role of organizations and tools such as ZDHC, LCA, and the Digital Product Passport in measuring and communicating the value of sustainable innovation.

In the second part of the conference, the focus shifted to concrete applications of the circular economy. Alberto Colella of Russo di Casandrino reported on the results of the RESCUE project (carried out under the MICS program), dedicated to recovering collagen from tanning waste for new production applications, emphasizing how the initiative has evolved from a laboratory concept into an industrial-scale reality.

Daniela Caracciolo


The Chemical & Sustainability Manager at Vignola Nobile, Daniela Caracciolo (who was also responsible for the conference’s excellent organization in her capacity as AICC vice president), presented the European H2OxyTan project, developed by the Campania-based tannery under the MICS funding calls. The project involves the development of a sustainable tanning process using 90% biodegradable metal complexes and an innovative wastewater treatment method employing hydrogen peroxide and UV rays.

The automotive sector was once again discussed during the presentation by Luca Frighetto, R&D Chemical Research Manager of Pasubio, who outlined research on the reduction and monitoring of aldehydes conducted at the Veneto-based tannery using analytical approaches that serve as alternatives to today’s most widely used standards—research that has led to the optimization of formulas and the production of more sustainable finished leathers.

The role of scientific research in the sustainable transition of the tanning sector was the focus of the presentation by Claudia Florio, Head of Research and Development at the Italian Leather Research Institute (SSIP), who highlighted the fundamental contribution made by SSIP within the MICS Foundation through the promotion of projects capable of generating results of high scientific value and, above all, providing concrete solutions to the needs of businesses—as demonstrated by the two projects presented during the Vietri Conference. This initiative was made possible by collaboration between public and private partners, with the involvement of universities and research centers.

Claudia Florio


The floor then turned to Antonio Medici, also from SSIP, who spoke about the Smart Leather Quality project, dedicated to the use of spectroscopy and intelligent vision systems to improve quality control and the sustainability of tanning processes.

The final presentation of the day focused on wastewater treatment. Luca Pucci of Gori Spa—a company that manages water services in 75 municipalities across the provinces of Naples and Salerno—discussed the strategies and innovations developed in anticipation of the new European Directive on Urban Wastewater, which is expected to have a significant impact on both municipal and industrial wastewater treatment.
In conclusion, the conference confirmed that the sustainable transition of the tanning sector requires an integrated approach capable of bringing together scientific research, technical expertise, and industrial entities. The challenge is to transform knowledge and innovations into concrete, measurable solutions that can be applied to production processes. It is precisely through collaboration across the entire supply chain that solid, responsible, and future-oriented competitiveness can emerge.

From the left: Luca Marrucci, Serena Portella, Marco Cazzolla, Dario Monolo
From the left: Claudia Florio, Luca Frighetto, Antonio Medici, Luca Pucci, Daniela Caracciolo

A glimpse of the audience at the 54th AICC National Conference in Vietri sul Mare

DIADORA UTILITY AND SUPERCRITICAL TECHNOLOGY HYPERFORM

Reducing fatigue and transforming every step into a continuous burst of energy for workers: with HYPERFORM supercritical technology and the launch of the GLOVE HYPERFORM line, Diadora Utility brings its best technology—developed for high-end running and tested by professional athletes—to the world of safety footwear. This integration stems from the realization that a worker who spends eight hours on their feet at a construction site or in a workshop faces constant physical strain. Diadora Utility transforms footwear from Personal Protective Equipment into a true tool for dynamic well-being.
HYPERFORM technology delivers a lightweight, flexible, responsive midsole capable of reducing fatigue. When subjected to high pressures and temperatures inside an autoclave, nitrogen enters a “supercritical” state—behaving like a “phantom” fluid—which allows it to penetrate the polymer matrix perfectly and uniformly. The sudden change in pressure triggers a physical-mechanical expansion of microbubbles, creating a material with a finer, more uniform structure.

GLOVE HYPERFORM


After years of testing processes and materials to identify the perfect formula for Diadora athletic footwear, GLOVE HYPERFORM was born—a safety shoe with a supercritical-material sole that offers several tangible performance and operational benefits for the wearer:

• Extreme lightness: the reduced weight of the midsole—with a record density of just 0.14 g/cm³ and a weight up to 20% lighter than the previous model—reduces perceived fatigue and increases comfort.

• Dynamic cushioning: the compound’s high elasticity and compressibility provide superior shock absorption, protecting the musculoskeletal system from daily stress.

• Responsiveness and active propulsion: walking efficiency is enhanced, returning energy with every step. The foot roll is smooth, dynamic, and exceptionally quiet.

• Durability and long-term resilience: Physical expansion creates an extremely fine, ultra-smooth, and homogeneous internal cellular structure that provides high mechanical strength and ensures superior shoe durability.

The line meets the diverse needs and working conditions of professionals through the following models:

• GLOVE HYPERFORM S3S FO SR HRO ESD (Mid and Low versions): Designed to withstand the most demanding conditions, it combines high-quality nubuck cowhide with a water-repellent and breathable polyester fabric, ensuring protection from moisture and long-lasting durability.

• GLOVE HYPERFORM S1PS FO SR HRO ESD (Low version): It combines the softness of suede cowhide with breathable polyester fabric inserts, making it ideal for indoor or dry environments.

Rounding out the design is a high-grip nitrile rubber outsole, essential for meeting heat resistance (HRO), oil resistance (FO), and—above all—maximum grip and slip resistance (SR) specifications, with grooves designed for rapid fluid drainage. Additionally, an anti-torsion support embedded in the arch (Hidden Anti-Torsion Shank) provides stability for the foot during lateral movements and on uneven surfaces.

Diadora Utility also stands out for its focus on environmental impact. GLOVE HYPERFORM is made with supercritical materials that use fewer chemical additives in the compound and reduce the amount of material used for the same volume.
The shoe includes recycled components, such as the polyester in the laces and labels, as well as the heel cup.

The benefits for workers who wear GLOVE HYPERFORM are immediate: less muscle strain, a natural gait, and the pleasant sensation of “not feeling the shoes on your feet.” With this line of footwear, Diadora Utility provides every professional with the support needed to tackle daily challenges while maintaining the same energy from the first step to the last of the workday.

GRISPORT presents the LTX line: for those who never stop

Grisport recently unveiled three new safety footwear models. These three items offer “workplace safety” and “leisure comfort.” They are the Maestrale, Scirocco, and Tramontana, which are part of the LTX (Light Tech Xtreme) line.
Their key feature is the Support System®, a flexible heel reinforcement system that “guides” the foot inside the shoe naturally, hands-free and effortlessly. “It helps improve stability while walking and protects the heel,” explain representatives from the Italian shoe factory in Castelcucco (Treviso).
The toe cap is made of PS143 composite, a modified technopolymer composite: lightweight, durable, and non-conductive to cold. It is certified to withstand impacts of up to 200J. The insole is flexible and certified puncture-resistant (EN ISO 20345:2022+A1:2024). “This feature makes the shoe as flexible as a sports shoe and as safe as work footwear.”

The LTX construction features a three-density outsole:
• The outsole is bonded to the upper via injected PU, which connects the upper to the outsole with millimeter-level precision and prevents any unwanted movement under the foot;
• New midsole with Nucleoos® technology. The ultra-lightweight PU is gas-injected, ensuring a reduced weight. The material provides consistent cushioning and returns to its original shape without compression;
• TPU outsole tread that is hydrocarbon-resistant and SR-certified slip-resistant.

Finally, there are three types of uppers:
• Leather: high abrasion resistance, breathable, conforms to the foot, 1.6–1.8 mm thick, natural material;
• Microfiber: 40% lighter than conventional materials, water-repellent, consistent quality, requires minimal maintenance, abrasion-resistant;
• Mesh: maximum breathability, “3D” honeycomb structure, ultra-lightweight material, anatomical fit, stress-resistant, and thermoregulatory.

Maestrale

SPARCO expands the TRACTION Line

The TRACTION line from Sparco Teamwork is the perfect embodiment of “value for money,” offering truly excellent value.
TRACTION is a line of sporty-style safety footwear, featuring a semi-seamless upper for maximum flexibility and an ultralight outsole made of EVA-rubber: the EVA midsole ensures lightness and cushioning, while the nitrile rubber outsole provides maximum grip, resistance to oils and hydrocarbons (FO), and resistance to contact heat up to 300° (HRO).
Today, the TRACTION line is expanded with a new S1PS model crafted from premium perforated suede in an exclusive navy blue–neon green colorway.
This new variant, which boasts even greater breathability and flexibility thanks to the quality of the genuine leather, joins the line’s other highly successful models made from reflective, abrasion-resistant fabric (in the S1PS versions) or tumbled nubuck (in the S3S versions).
This line is now truly complete and diverse, designed to meet the tastes and needs of all users, while delivering the signature sporty and distinctive look of Sparco Teamwork footwear, along with flexibility, lightness, safety, and performance.

Here are the technical details:

UPPER: soft perforated suede leather, with reinforcements in textured microfiber.
LINING: breathable, micro-perforated 3D fabric.
REMOVABLE INSOLE: antistatic, low-density polyurethane with ergonomic thermoforming.
PUNCTURE-RESISTANT INSOLE: ultra-lightweight, zero-perforation textile fiber (PS – 3.0 mm diameter nail).
TOE CAP: non-magnetic fiberglass, insulating, 200J impact-resistant.
ANTI-STATIC, NON-SLIP SOLE: super-comfortable EVA midsole with high energy absorption. FO+HRO nitrile rubber outsole.
SIZES: 36–48 (UK 3½–13).

The new S1PS model in perforated suede