On 23 September 1999, the Mars Climate Orbiter probe, which cost around 125 million dollars, disintegrated in the Martian atmosphere. No malfunction, no calculation error: one team of engineers was working in metric units, the other in imperial units. The numbers were correct. It was the reference list used to interpret them that was wrong.

Space probes aren’t lost in electroplating workshops. But the mechanism behind the error is identical: taking the ‘grammar’ of one process and applying it to a process that ‘speaks’ a different language. This is what has been happening for years in the metal accessories supply chain, which has been asked to reduce or eliminate substances on the basis of lists written for textiles, leather and plastics. Serious, well-constructed lists. Except they were designed for something else.

A LIST THAT DIDN’T EXIST

MRSL stands for Manufacturing Restricted Substance List: the list of substances subject to restrictions in manufacturing processes. The version published today within the ZDHC framework — the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals programme, which aims for zero discharge of hazardous chemicals into the environment — covers textiles, leather and plastics. Metal accessories have never been taken into account.

Ester Falletta, technical director of the Physis Consortium, uses two precise terms to describe what has happened in the vacuum left by that omission: distortions and misrepresentations. Demands were nevertheless made of suppliers, because brands could not afford to wait for a list that nobody was actually drawing up. And so a buckle, a zip or a clamp ended up being measured against a standard designed for other products.

WHO IS ACTUALLY QUALIFIED TO DRAW IT UP?

The real question is who is qualified to draw up such a list. Not a single manufacturer, who knows only their own ring well. Not a brand, which views the supply chain from the outside and from above.

Physis is the first consortium established to represent the entire metal accessory production chain: from metal refining to manufacturing plants, from software to supporting technological solutions, from base materials to semi-finished products, right through to surface treatments such as electroplating and  varnishing. This structure has made it possible to bring together, around a single table, technicians overseeing different stages of production, supplemented by an international network of experts.

In 2025, the project to develop the MRSL for metal accessories officially began, with the Physis Consortium acting as lead organisation, in tandem with ZDHC.

ELECTROPLATING, CHAPTER ONE

By the end of 2025, the working group had finalised the first list: substances subject to restriction in electroplating processes applied to metal accessories.

This list comprises three main categories: metallic, organic and inorganic substances.

The document was submitted to the MRSL Council, which established a Technical Expert Group (TEG) comprising international experts in formulation, industrial plants and processes, sustainability, and brand representatives. The TEG, chaired by Ester Falletta, is finalising its review of the document, with final validation by the MRSL Council – the body responsible for its independent technical review – scheduled for October 2026.

NOT A LIST OF PROHIBITIONS

A list of restricted substances is instinctively seen as a ‘no entry’ sign, and therefore as a cost, a complication, a problem. But the situation should be viewed quite differently: the publication of the MRSL will not be an end in itself, but a starting point.

The logic follows that of progressive reduction plans, which accompany the use of a substance right through to its phase-out. And the list will be reviewed periodically, as technology within the supply chain advances. This is based on a criterion that rarely features in sustainability documents: alongside environmental protection and health and safety, the industrial and economic sustainability of the measures being proposed is also taken into account. In other words: no reduction that a real supply chain is unable to sustain.

Not a static list of obligations, therefore, but a programme that moves in step with research and, in some respects, drives it forward.

For years, the metal fittings sector has been asked to prove its environmental credentials using someone else’s yardstick. Now it is developing its own assessment system. A major step forward.

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The Florentine circular luxury brand has unveiled its new REband model, which embodies a contemporary, dynamic and genderless vision of artisanal leather goods. Designed for a new generation of travellers, creatives and professionals on the move, the new crossbody bag is a versatile accessory that makes a statement, naturally adapting to different lifestyles. Minimalist in form yet full of character, the bag embodies the concept of contemporary luxury through a functional, gender-neutral and customisable design.

The new model was unveiled at Pitti Uomo within the spaces of The Social Hub Florence Belfiore, where RERERI took centre stage with a temporary pop-up experience that invited the public to delve into the creative process and actively participate in designing their own bag.

The brainchild of Giacomo Gallina, a fashion and footwear designer with nearly twenty years’ experience in the luxury sector, the launch of the Monk (bare) Foot project sees the brand introduce a lightweight, high-quality shoe, designed to revolutionise the concept of walking in line with the philosophy of emptiness and meditation in motion.

The brand name encapsulates its very essence: ‘Monk’ evokes the figure of the monk, whilst the concept of ‘Mu’ – the answer to an ancient Japanese koan meaning ‘nothing’ or ‘emptiness’ – manifests as a creative force, the true origin of every generative process.

The Monk (bare) Foot project translates this philosophy into a physical experience that simulates walking barefoot, an ancient Zen meditation practice. To recreate the sensation of natural contact with the ground, the shoe features the Vibram FF Cup sole: an ultra-thin shell, just a few millimetres thick, made of ‘zero-drop’ rubber (with no height difference between heel and toe). The extraordinary flexibility of this component is combined with the excellence of Italian craftsmanship. The upper, made from genuine full-grain leather, is stitched directly to the rubber sole, whilst the insole is made from genuine leather. Production is entirely entrusted to a small artisanal shoe factory in the Veneto region, a guardian of the ‘Made in Italy’ tradition.

Founded in 1973 in Montebelluna, at the heart of the Veneto footwear district, the brand is now one of Italy’s most recognised names on the international sporting scene. At the latest edition of Pitti Uomo, it unveiled its new SS27 collection, featuring a range that blends sporting heritage, material innovation and contemporary sensibility. Among the standout models is the Losanga ’76 PRT, a tribute to one of the most iconic chapters in Italian sporting history: Italy’s victory in the 1976 Davis Cup. The model takes its name from Lotto’s signature maxi diamond, an oversized graphic element that dominates the upper, and is crafted from beige velour that extends seamlessly to the toe and back tab. The trainer strikes a sophisticated balance between sporting heritage and urban influences, thanks to its vintage, distressed finish and distinctive graphic details: the ideograms on the sole, the contrasting Japanese characters on the heel, and the ‘Losanga ’76’ branding on the tongue and back tab all reinforce the model’s urban appeal.

Ever since its inception, Kapten & Son has been committed to turning every moment into a meaningful experience, offering innovative, functional products with eye-catching designs. The brand’s extensive collection ranges from sunglasses to travel gear, right through to a versatile range of bags and rucksacks. It is these rucksacks in particular that perfectly blend style and practicality: available in various sizes (from 4 to 26 litres), they are ideal for work, university, sport and leisure. Made from high-quality materials and available in a wide range of modern styles and colours, Kapten & Son rucksacks offer all the space you need to organise your everyday essentials – such as laptops, documents and water bottles – in the best possible way.

Raw canvas, textured inserts and premium leathers coexist in a quest for balance where imperfection becomes a design detail and contrast takes on aesthetic value. Offering a preview of the season’s vision is RETRÒ, a new release presented exclusively at Pitti: a sneaker that encapsulates the collection’s minimalist approach and embodies the concept of ‘quiet luxury’. Crafted from nappa leather and suede, completely unlined and free of internal reinforcements, it offers extreme lightness and comfort, emphasising the sensation of a shoe that naturally accompanies the body’s movement. The design draws on archival sportswear imagery reimagined with a contemporary twist: the round cotton lace, the technical eyelet on the first hole and the honey-coloured rubber sole define a clean, versatile and authentic aesthetic. On the side of the upper, there is also a new interpretation of the distinctive D.A.T.E. logo: four small squares representing the brand’s four founders and embodying its original DNA..

The Italian sportswear brand, born from an exclusive agreement between the Italian Air Force General Staff and Cristiano di Thiene S.p.A. – which for over twenty years has been translating the history and values of the Armed Forces into clothing – presents a men’s collection for next summer that reinterprets the brand’s roots to project them into the wardrobe of tomorrow. The narrative of the SS27 season is structured around three distinct themes, which blend together in a play of layers and layering.

Urban interprets a concept of contemporary classicism designed for those seeking understated elegance and shunning ostentation. Iconic, timeless pieces such as cotton chinos or jersey polo shirts offer sophisticated versatility that flows naturally throughout the day.

Military embodies the brand’s deepest essence, where functional inspiration translates into form and character. Field jackets, bomber jackets and military-style overshirts evolve into clean, contemporary silhouettes, blending a glorious history with maximum practicality.

Heritage brings the story to a close with the power of its iconic details and distinctive features. The embroidery stands out as a defining element, evoking craftsmanship, authenticity and a sense of belonging, making each piece unique and instantly recognisable.

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