Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Studio

New OEKO-TEX® standards

Promoting confidence in the textile and leather industry remains the mission of OEKO-TEX®. Because trust is based on consistently high standards, the OEKO-TEX® Association has released updated testing criteria, limit values and guidelines for its certifications, based on the latest scientific research and legal developments. The main changes include increased certification of organic cotton through the OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON, with inclusion in the OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN, stricter limits for BPA under the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 and strict transparency requirements for leather supply chains under the OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD. The expanded OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT will include basic chemicals and biodegradability testing.

STANDARD 100: new for organic cotton and BPA

In order to maintain the highest standards of safety and compliance and to improve the surveillance of certified organic cotton, an area where fraud is rife, the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certification will not include any indication of ‘GMO-free’ or ‘organic’ cotton in the scope of the certificate. The certification of cotton as “organic” is now achievable through OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON.

In addition, OEKO-TEX® has reduced the limit value for bisphenol A (BPA) from 100 to 10mg/kg. The chemical, which can alter the hormone system if it enters the body even in small amounts, has often been found in tests on textiles worn directly on the skin.

LEATHER STANDARD: Ahead of Europe’s Deforestation Regulation (EUDR)

As part of the European Green Deal and the 2030 EU Biodiversity Strategy, the European Commission adopted a new regulation in May 2024. One of the most significant challenges posed by the European Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) is the requirement for leather supply chain transparency. Companies must trace the origins of their leather products to ensure they do not contribute to deforestation. The EUDR was supposed to come into force at the end of 2024 but was postponed by one year in November 2024. However, for hides and leather material from cattle and calves, proof of origin (e.g. delivery notes from the slaughterhouse) is required to earn OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD certification.

MADE IN GREEN: Adding ORGANIC COTTON certification option

The OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN label recognises OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON as product certificate in addition to STANDARD 100 and LEATHER STANDARD. This allows companies that have their cotton products certified to combine the strengths of both OEKO-TEX® standards: supply chain traceability and verification from farm to product with responsible and safe production.

STeP: Enhanced ZDHC cooperation boosting sustainability in textiles and leather

The collaboration between ZDHC and OEKO-TEX® aims is to empower the textile, apparel, footwear and leather industries to improve environmental impact by optimising guidelines and solutions through joint efforts. OEKO-TEX® STeP certificate holders are now eligible to participate in the ZDHC Supplier to Zero Programme. Companies can upload their STeP certificate and report to the ZDHC Supplier Platform for acknowledgement within the Supplier to Zero Programme.

ECO PASSPORT: Expanding scope and highlighting biodegradability

Starting in 2025, OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT will expand its certification scope beyond chemicals specialised for textile and leather applications to include commodity and maintenance chemicals. This expansion aims to phase out harmful substances earlier, enhance worker safety and prioritise environmental protection. Additionally, second-life commodity chemicals will be subject to more frequent testing to ensure quality. ECO PASSPORT customers will also be able highlight the biodegradability of their chemical products on their certificates

EUDR, UNIC prepares platform to manage due diligence

In view of the entry into force of the EU Regulation against deforestation, scheduled for 2026 also for the bovine leather sector, the UNIC Group – Italian Tanneries is developing a digital platform dedicated to the management of due diligence.

“The aim of the initiative,” explain the Italian tanners’ association, “is to provide a complete IT solution to fulfil the obligations under the EUDR specifically applied to the hides and skins supply chain”.

Realised in collaboration with a specialised IT company, the solution will allow companies to:

– geographically trace the plants involved in production;

– manage and evaluate required documentation;

– generate automated reports and digital certifications;

– integrate satellite data for risk analysis (on deforestation/degradation around geolocalised points);

– connect via API (application programming interface) to the official European information system for the automatic sending and receipt of due diligence.

 

The project stems from the synergy with the timber industry and the consolidated experience in the management of these digital streams. Among the planned functions, in addition to those already mentioned, is “risk assessment by integrating medium-resolution satellite data, processed through validated methodologies, to verify the state of deforestation/forest degradation around geolocalised points”.

Although cattle hide is not a driver of deforestation – as also demonstrated by the Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies in Pisa – UNIC is therefore preparing to provide companies with a concrete and efficient tool to address new regulatory obligations.

 

 

Nimbl and Fundación Xana, side by side for people in need

The high-performance cycling shoe brand has launched a new Limited Edition in collaboration with Fundación Xana with the mission to support children and families in their daily battle for life. The shoe is a true work of art, co-designed with Edgar Plans, and was worn during the Milano – San Remo kicking off a charity auction and other major international cycling competitions.

‘We are proud to present this shoe to the world,’ commented Francesco Sergio, MD and Co-Founder of Nimbl . “Ever since we had the privilege of learning about the story of Fundación Xana and what it does for families facing difficult times, we felt personally touched. From this involvement came the thought of doing something that could tell these stories in our own way, running as is the character of Nimbl. Therefore, not only will our users be able to buy the Limited Edition and contribute to the foundation’s initiatives, but also the World Tour riders wearing the brand carried this important message in such an iconic race as the Milano – Sanremo”.

The Fundación Xana was established with precisely this mission, to provide comprehensive care and support to children and young people suffering from serious illnesses and their families. Its aim is to act as a pillar of support on several levels: emotional, physical, financial and practical. Assistance is provided through various intervention programmes, including housing support, financial and practical help, and assistance to various family members.

The organisation has its own programme and several projects. It also collaborates with other organisations, such as the Integrative Paediatric Oncology Unit (UOPI) of the Sant Joan de Déu Hospital – a pioneering unit in Spain – and the Pabellón de la Victoria, a project of the ‘Fundación Villavecchia’ to which Fundación Xana donates 15% of its annual funds.


Innovation is sustainable at Polartec

From pioneering the transformation of recycled plastics to non-PFAS membranes and low-impact manufacturing processes, Polartec is proving that sustainability and high performance can coexist, as the recent expansion of the Power Shield™ family – which includes Polartec® Power Shield™ Pro and Polartec® Power Shield™ RPM – demonstrates. Made with Biolon™* nylon, Polartec® Power Shield™ Pro introduces an innovative non-PFAS membrane that sets new standards in sustainability in technical fabrics. Biolon™, a non-GMO plant-derived nylon, makes up approximately 45-48% of the nylon content of the new Power Shield™ Pro membrane, reducing the carbon footprint by 50% compared to traditional Nylon 6.6. In terms of performance, it also offers 20K/20K breathable waterproof protection (20,000 mm water resistance – ISO 811 / 20,000 g/m²/24h breathability – JIS L1099, B1). Polartec® Power Shield™ RPM is also a further step towards reducing environmental impact. This 100% recycled and recyclable polyester fabric features a highly durable non-PFAS treatment to repel moisture. Available in 3-layer and 2-layer configurations, it offers a breathability level of 30,000 g/m²/24h.

Designed for runners, cyclists, competitive athletes and golfers, Power Shield™ RPM helps solve one of the most critical problems for outdoor athletes: perspiration, reducing this risk by up to 50% compared to other Polartec membranes.

Resole: Hanwag’s answer to “disposable” fashion

In Europe, an enormous volume of textile and shoe waste is generated every year. Statistics indicate around 5.2 million tonnes of waste produced each year from clothing and footwear alone. Once produced and used, shoes present the additional problem of disposal, as they are made of different materials such as leather, plastic and metal, which are often difficult to recycle. For this reason, most used shoes end up in household waste and are incinerated. Hanwag, one of Europe’s leading names in high-quality mountaineering and trekking footwear, offers the possibility to resole its models instead of having to throw them away and buy them again, thus extending the useful life of the product. This not only reduces the ecological footprint of each pair of Hanwag boots, but also reduces the consumption of resources and the creation of waste. Furthermore, as the upper of the boots generally remains in good condition even after several years and kilometres of use, while only the lower part, i.e. the sole, needs to be replaced, resole allows you to preserve and maintain the unique fit of your already perfectly shaped shoes on your foot, while at the same time integrating a new sole that offers renewed grip and traction for trekking or mountaineering.

Resole moulding is a true tradition for Hanwag, carried on for over a century. For Hans Wagner, founder of the brand in the early 1900s, it was indeed essential to produce durable footwear, as his customers could not afford to buy new boots frequently. For this reason, even back then, Hanwag boots could be completely re-soled.  To take advantage of the resole service today, Hanwag users can take their boots to a specialised dealer, or send them directly to the company’s headquarters.


Recycling is an art

Coordinated by APICCAPS and the Footwear Technology Centre of Portugal and supported by the PRR (Recovery and Resilience Plan), Bioshoes4all’s project ‘Innovation and empowerment of the footwear sector for a sustainable bio-economy’ places recycling as one of the main priorities in order to develop a sustainable economy for the footwear sector and reduce the environmental footprint.

While global plastics production has increased significantly in recent years, reaching around 430 million tonnes in 2024, only 9% of this production is recycled.

The consumption and production of plastics requires the use of large amounts of fossil fuels, which has a negative effect on the environment. To make matters worse, the decline in economic activity has led to a sharp fall in the global price of oil, making the production of plastics from virgin fossil materials significantly cheaper than the use of recycled plastics. According to the European Environment Agency, if the production and use of plastics continues to grow as predicted, the plastics industry will be responsible for consuming 20% of the world’s oil by 2050, a significant increase from the current 7%.

The ever-increasing amount of plastic, its impact on biodiversity and its contribution to climate change, as well as its integration into a circular economy, are all issues on the footwear and leather industry’s agenda.

RECYCLING FOR 100% CIRCULARITY
 Recyclable material is a material that is collected, reprocessed and used in the production of recycled materials. Plastic materials can be recycled several times through extrusion (reprocessing process) and injection (mechanixal forming), metal materials can be melted down and reprocessed to produce new materials, and fibres can be extruded to produce new yarns.

In the footwear cluster, for example, waste from the production of thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) and thermoplastic rubber (TR) soles can be collected, crushed and reformulated (adding additives if necessary to ensure the properties required for function) for injection into new footwear components. These materials can be recycled several times while maintaining their functional properties.

Post-consumer waste, materials or products discarded by consumers at their end-of-life, can be collected, sorted, and reprocessed to create new recycled materials for product manufacturing. Multiple methodologies are available for the recycling of these materials, such as the development of dedicated recycling processes for individual material types, the production of composite materials, or the recycling of thermoplastic materials, among others. Another, still in its infancy but with potential, is the recycling of post-consumer footwear which, after collection, sorting and separation of materials, can be ground, and the resulting material is used to develop new materials/components for footwear or other applications such as flooring or construction. The recycling process is facilitated in products with less material diversity and by using materials of the same type and similar composition.

The use of recycled materials in the production of footwear is one of the strategies with the greatest impact on reducing the environmental footprint of products, both by reducing the extraction and consumption of raw materials and by reducing the amount of waste sent to landfills or incineration.

Bioshoes4All is researching and developing various approaches for the recycling and valorization of footwear waste (post-production and post-consumer). These include, among others, the recycling of thermoplastic and thermoset materials for shoe soles; the production of textile-based composite materials for footwear and leather goods; the development of composites for insoles and soles; and the development of non-woven materials and construction materials, incorporating footwear waste. The project is also studying the implementation of a collection model for post-consumer injected footwear, with a view to its reprocessing and production of new footwear products.
By the end of the year, a new generation of products will be completed.

RE-Flock: ‘Same feel. Same output. Less waste’.

At the FuoriSalone in Milan last April, the Brianza-based company presented the enormous potential of its innovative RE-Flock regenerated flock at the exhibition organised by Materially and dedicated to the research and development of innovative and sustainable materials. This is a circular solution that makes it possible to recover and reactivate spent flock, guaranteeing the same quality and performance as virgin flock. Flock is, in fact, like a battery: it discharges with use. But it can instead be regenerated and reused, reducing waste and consumption of raw materials. ‘Our process allows two variants: regenerated flock only, which retains its original colour, and regenerated re-dyed flock, obtained from mixed flock and re-coloured,’ says Beatrice Casati, young administrator of Casati Flock & Fibers .

Flock – the ‘fabric powder’, is an aggregate of billions of textile fibres just a few millimetres thick with multiple uses (it is that velvet that covers many coat hangers or spectacle cases or perfume packaging).

The installation at the Fuori Salone included a material panel where 10 circles of different materials – from wood, to glass, to felt, to plastic – were displayed, which in turn were covered with two types of flock, the virgin flock and RE-Flock, so as to exemplify and give people the opportunity to touch and feel how there is no visual and tactile difference between the two products, except in terms of saving energy, water and processing.


KEEN and Hiking Patrol present the Hyperport H2 sandal

The Hyperport H2 sandal evolves the iconic Newport H2, making it lighter and more comfortable without sacrificing KEEN’s sustainability and DNA. The sandal/shoe hybrid combines freedom and protection, making it a versatile companion for exploring urban and outdoor environments. In 2024, the Hyperport H2 received an ISPO Award for innovation in sports product design, consolidating its place among KEEN’s offerings. With two colour variants of the Hyperport H2 sandal, this collection celebrates the diversity of marine life observable during low and high tide, a concept that also permeates the creative campaign.

As with all KEEN footwear, in line with the Hiking Patrol philosophy, the Hyperport H2 is Consciously Created, i.e. manufactured without permanent chemicals, including PFAS and antimicrobials. Other features include: original fit with ample forefoot space for greater toe freedom, elastic lacing with quick-closure for easy on and off, injected foam midsole for surprising lightness, cushioning insole with arch support and Aquagrip outsole for extra grip on wet surfaces. The durable, PFAS-free water repellent treatment protects against water like permanent chemicals without harming the planet and Eco Anti-Odor ensures natural, pesticide-free odour control.


Utility Diadora lights up the backstage of May Day

Utility Diadora, a leading brand of safety footwear and workwear, renews for the fourth consecutive year its partnership with May Day, Europe’s largest free live event, this year ready to return to the historic location of Piazza San Giovanni in Rome.

Once again this year, May Day is an opportunity for Utility Diadora to strengthen this key commitment: the brand will provide footwear and clothing to the staff working behind the scenes, enabling them to operate safely and ensure the perfect success of the event. From stage fitters to sound and lighting workers, from riggers to stagehands, everyone will be able to rely on the quality and reliability of Utility products to best cope with the demanding backstage and onstage tasks, which are characterized by rapid and continuous movements that require secure footing and prolonged comfort.

Each outfit is designed to optimize the performance of manual activities and meet the specific needs of the wearer. For men, in fact, in addition to the Shark Stable Impact footwear, May 1 will be the ideal time to preview test Vortex, the newest additions to Utility Diadora. These safety shoes encapsulate the brand’s sports DNA with the world of running inspiring the design and the world of tennis providing the technological innovation. In fact, they feature the Double Action system, patented by Diadora, is aimed at providing flexibility and high impact absorption thanks to the dual-density EVA midsole, which, with a softer heel and a more compact edge/footbed, optimizes the relationship between responsiveness and stability.

Gruppo Mastrotto, an encounter between industry and art through leather

Gruppo Mastrotto set out to highlight the importance of know-how and culture as fundamental levers to promote innovation and creativity, offering a modern and dynamic vision of the material. At the February 2025 edition of Lineapelle Milano, Gruppo Mastrotto continued its path of contamination between art and industry with the second chapter of a cultural project aimed at enhancing the link between leather, art and contemporary design. After the success of the inaugural collaboration with Paolo Gonzato and his work Out of Stock 2024, the project continued with artist Paola Pezzi and her exclusive creation Verde Acqua.

Gruppo Mastrotto’s cultural project was born with the aim of creating a visual dialogue between tradition, innovation and artistic experimentation, enhancing the expressive capacity of leather. An iconic material and symbol of the company’s heritage, leather becomes the protagonist of unique works that reflect passion for quality, sustainability and innovation.

The Verde Acqua work attempts to capture and block the motion of the waves. It is made of soft Nappa leather, available in Nimbus, Aquatic, Airy and White tones.