Arsutoria Magazine

JV International strengthens its technical and creative expertise alongside its brand partners

Stefano Madau takes the helm of the sales department; he is a manager with a solid cross-functional background in strategic consulting and a track record at the helm of major brands in the outdoor and sports sectors. Joining him is Giovanni Girardi, who takes on the role of Sales Manager, bringing proven experience in the sports sector and established skills in negotiation, strategic planning and business development. The company’s evolution also involves strengthening the design and product development department. This is where Vania Cadamuro comes in, as Designer Coordinator and Product & Project Manager, with a career spanning the entire product lifecycle, from conception to industrialisation across various sectors, from sport to furniture, from fashion to the world of children’s products. Completing the strengthening of the technical team is Aramis Ziliotto, Technical Coordinator, who trained as a Product Designer and specialises in the technical design of soles for outdoor sports.

Luca Piani, General Director of JV International, who is leading this process of consolidation and development, says: “The arrival of these new professionals marks a strategic step in JV International’s development, as it enables us to bring key skills on board and build an increasingly robust and innovation-focused organisation. In a constantly evolving international market, we believe that investing in people, organisation and know-how is essential to sustaining the company’s growth and continuing to create value together with our brand partners.”

Luca Piani, General Director 

Sustainability and new approaches to value in the footwear industry

Unione Stilisti, in collaboration with Olians Plast, Re.Nova Plast and Flowability, is organising a discussion session dedicated to sustainability in the footwear district, with the aim of providing practical tools to tackle the transition towards circularity in a complex economic context.

 

22 May 2026
from 5.00 pm to 7.30 pm
Auditorium Quota CS
Via Pozzetto 3, Sant’Elpidio a Mare

 

The initiative stems from the realisation that many companies in the supply chain still face difficulties in integrating sustainability into their production models, partly due to recent economic challenges. In this context, sustainability is proposed as a concrete lever for innovation, efficiency and competitive strengthening.

 

The meeting, moderated by Sara Di Battista, features a programme structured around four key themes:

•    Regulations and the transformation of the supply chain: with Marco Capellini (Matrec), Luca Campadello (Erion Textile) and Giulia Caldon (Ez lab)

•    Integrated technologies to support businesses: with Marco Cappellini (Matrec) and Simone Lastrucci (WTrendy)

•    Value preservation and recovery processes: with Francesco Cognigni (Olians Group) and Elisabetta Pieragostini (Da.Mi)

•    Governance, organisation and financial instruments: with Alessandro Baccani (Aneway) and Rito Straccia (Banco Marchigiano)

 

The aim is to facilitate a meaningful dialogue between businesses and operators in the supply chain, demonstrating how sustainability can be transformed from a constraint into a real opportunity for the district.

You can register by clicking here.

ICF: 2025 and a record dividend

The company, a leading international player in the design, production and marketing of high-tech adhesives and fabrics, listed on the Euronext Growth Milan market, approved its financial statements for the year ended 31 December 2025 on 28 April and reviewed the consolidated financial statements for the year ended 31 December 2025. The key consolidated results show revenues of €72.6 million, EBITDA of €9.7 million, up from €8.9 million as at 31 December 2024, with a margin of 13.3%. Adjusted EBIT stood at €6.8 million, up 17% on 2024.

The Shareholders’ Meeting also approved the allocation of the net profit for the year and the distribution of a dividend of €0.30 per share. This was followed by the appointment of the new management team, with Guido Cami as Chairman of the Board of Directors and Chief Executive Officer. Marina Balzano, Steven Kenny and Roberto Rettani were appointed as independent directors. A new share buyback programme was also authorised, aimed at enabling ICF to build up a share portfolio to be used for extraordinary financial transactions and/or other financial, managerial and strategic purposes.

A resilient company in a challenging environment

In an interview with Class CNBC, Chairman Guido Cami commented on these excellent financial results, highlighting that, in reality, revenues are down from €75.2 million as at 31 December 2024, primarily due to the contraction in the footwear and leather goods sector, which was offset by positive performance in other sectors in which ICF operates, such as automotive and flexible packaging.

Cami also highlighted how Italy is becoming increasingly expensive for the global market: “Italian products are costly, generally speaking, in terms of compliance, regulation and energy, and this causes us to lose competitiveness compared to the Far East. Looking specifically at our portfolio, however, we have seen that we have managed to regain market share in Europe, because our customers who manufacture and sell in Europe are themselves subject to increasingly restrictive and stringent European regulations.”

Today, Cami points out, “the mantra is no longer simply to bring in orders and turnover, but we need to be more selective, producing niche, more technical products that comply with regulations and feature strong innovation. Only in this way do margins increase”. To achieve this, a company needs to be well-structured in terms of machinery, but it also requires a great deal of imagination and curiosity in commercial matters, a strong R&D team for innovation and, finally, effective administrative and managerial control.

With regard to the serious crisis in the Middle East and its consequences, Cami states that since 2 March there has been a significant surge in the cost of all raw materials, and this is bound to have a significant impact in the near future: “Raw materials account for around 60–62% of our costs, and solvents – whose price has tripled – make up almost 70% of that 60–62%, so you can imagine the impact. The difference compared to 2021 and the post-Covid period is that – for the time being – the surge in raw material prices has not yet been accompanied by a shortage of these materials, at least in Europe. The real question is what will happen between now and the next 3–4 months, between now and the summer holidays.”

Guido Cami, Chairman of the Board of Directors and Chief Executive Officer

Diadora Utility ‘makes a splash’ at the May Day concert

For the fifth consecutive year, Diadora Utility is renewing its historic partnership with the May Day “Concertone,” outfitting the technical staff of the most anticipated concert of the year with safety apparel and footwear. And in this tireless behind-the-scenes world, where everything moves at a frenetic pace, Utility aims to amplify the message that “Safety Makes Noise.” To emphasize this message, there will be a photo reportage of the technicians working behind the scenes, as well as testimonials from the artists themselves, who, in a dedicated corner on the sidelines of their performances, will have the opportunity to highlight the importance of working safely.
A collective narrative, destined for the brand’s social media pages, to raise awareness of fundamental issues such as the protection of workers in every environment and context.
For the occasion, the new Glove A.Box will make its world premiere. This safety footwear embodies the cutting-edge technology of Diadora Utility, designed to achieve new performance milestones thanks to an innovative construction and a selection of materials that maximize breathability. On the one hand, the innovative A.Box construction, patented by Diadora, features a redesigned structure with side ventilation holes, specifically engineered to provide greater foot ventilation, and a midsole placement that enhances its cushioning and responsiveness; on the other hand, the use of Ariatex, the new-generation breathable membrane developed at the Diadora Research Center, which is completely PFAS-free, waterproof, breathable, and durable. This combination acts like a true “pump effect” with every step: while blocking water from entering, it allows excess moisture to escape much more easily, keeping the foot dry in all weather conditions.

The new Glove A.Box shoe
Women’s total look
Men’s total look  

Leather excluded from the EUDR

The European tanning industry breathes a sigh of relief: hides, skins and leather have been excluded from the scope of the Anti-Deforestation Regulation (EUDR).
On May 4, the European Commission proposed to exclude hides, skins and leather from the scope of Regulation (EU) 2023/1115 on zero-deforestation products (EUDR), through a draft delegated act that will amend Annex I and is expected to enter into force by summer following a public consultation. The decision represents a crucial step for the European tanning industry and formalizes the recognition of a position long advocated by COTANCE, the umbrella organization representing European tanners’ associations: leather is a byproduct of the meat and dairy supply chains and does not drive either cattle farming or deforestation.
According to the sector, the inclusion of leather in the EUDR was not supported by a specific impact assessment, and its exclusion aligns with the principle of regulatory proportionality. COTANCE reiterated that it shares the environmental objectives of the regulation but has always called for rules based on scientific evidence.
The decision follows a globally coordinated effort by the tanning industry, involving associations and stakeholders
“Today’s European Commission saved more 30 000 jobs across European tanneries and sent a clear signal to the world: the leather industry is not a problem to be regulated away — it is a solution to be invested in. The European leather industry is the innovation edge of a global sector, producing the most sustainable and technically advanced leather in the world. This outcome allows us to keep our focus where it belongs: on the future” said Manuel Rios, President of COTANCE.
Edoardo De Paola, Secretary General of COTANCE, added: “This is a historic moment for the tanning industry. The Commission has rectified a fundamental flaw that has existed since the EUDR proposal was first put forward, confirming what logic has long suggested: converting a by-product of livestock into leather does not drive deforestation. Since biblical times, leather has symbolized the transformation of a natural by-product into something Even though the outcome now seems certain, it is important to remember that the process is far from over. For the exclusion to become final, a 30-day public consultation period by the Commission must now be observed. The Council and the European Parliament then have an additional 60 days to approve the delegated act or request that it be revised in its entirety.

Diadora Utility ‘makes a splash’ at the May Day concert

For the fifth consecutive year, Diadora Utility is renewing its historic partnership with the May Day “Concertone,” outfitting the technical staff of the most anticipated concert of the year with safety apparel and footwear. And in this tireless behind-the-scenes world, where everything moves at a frenetic pace, Utility aims to amplify the message that “Safety Makes Noise.” To emphasize this message, there will be a photo reportage of the technicians working behind the scenes, as well as testimonials from the artists themselves, who, in a dedicated corner on the sidelines of their performances, will have the opportunity to highlight the importance of working safely.
A collective narrative, destined for the brand’s social media pages, to raise awareness of fundamental issues such as the protection of workers in every environment and context.
For the occasion, the new Glove A.Box will make its world premiere. This safety footwear embodies the cutting-edge technology of Diadora Utility, designed to achieve new performance milestones thanks to an innovative construction and a selection of materials that maximize breathability. On the one hand, the innovative A.Box construction, patented by Diadora, features a redesigned structure with side ventilation holes, specifically engineered to provide greater foot ventilation, and a midsole placement that enhances its cushioning and responsiveness; on the other hand, the use of Ariatex, the new-generation breathable membrane developed at the Diadora Research Center, which is completely PFAS-free, waterproof, breathable, and durable. This combination acts like a true “pump effect” with every step: while blocking water from entering, it allows excess moisture to escape much more easily, keeping the foot dry in all weather conditions.

The new Glove A.Box shoe
Women’s total look
Men’s total look  

TOMORROW, APRIL 29, IS WORLD LEATHER DAY

There is now just one day left until World Leather Day 2026, which will be celebrated tomorrow, Wednesday, April 29. Launched in 2022 through a collaboration between Leather Naturally and the Leather Working Group, World Leather Day represents an important opportunity to reaffirm that leather is a resilient, versatile, and durable material.
The theme chosen for this year’s edition, “Make It Leather,” is a genuine call to action directed at the entire supply chain. It is a message intended to highlight a paradigm shift—moving from a volume-based approach to one grounded in value, from a throwaway culture to one of durability, and toward consumption that is less influenced by trends and more focused on quality and artisanal tradition.
Leather Naturally is asking operators in the leather supply chain to do their part in spreading the message through their social media channels. To facilitate communication, it has prepared a toolkit that can help amplify the news.
Click HERE to download the toolkit

In search of stability in an unstable world

In this interview, Samer Al Jabi, TFL interim CEO, explains the complexity of the situation and the real impact of the Gulf conflict on global supplies.

Samer Al Jabi

How is the ongoing conflict in the Gulf region currently impacting TFL’s supply chain and operations worldwide?

“We are operating in an increasingly complex global environment. The ongoing conflict in the Gulf region is creating significant and sustained disruptions across logistics routes, energy availability, and raw material supply chains worldwide.
As with many industries, the leather sector relies heavily on interconnected global value chains-from raw material sourcing through to finished products reaching end markets. As a result, procurement conditions, freight flows, and production planning have all become considerably more challenging and less predictable”.

Are these developments limited to certain regions?

“Some regions are affected earlier or more strongly, but the impact is global. Recently, we have seen a particularly sharp spike in cost pressure in key sourcing and manufacturing regions such as India. Energy constraints and gas based production limitations there have amplified the situation. However, in an interconnected supply chain, we see the impact affecting our production facilities in all regions”.

Some observers point to easing crude oil prices. Would that not immediately improve the situation?

“That is a common misconception. Even if energy prices ease temporarily, it does not mean that supply chains will normalize overnight. This situation goes far beyond fluctuations in crude oil and gas prices. The Middle East accounts for roughly 25% of global commodity chemical exports, with the majority of these flows passing through the Strait of Hormuz; a critical chokepoint. What we are seeing is a disruption across the entire value chain: from raw materials and intermediates to production, transportation, and overall availability. Rebuilding inventories, restoring logistics flows, and stabilizing lead times will take months, not weeks”.

You also mentioned raw material availability. How serious is that issue?

“It is a very serious concern. The leather industry depends on a wide range of chemicals, many of which have been directly impacted by this crisis. For example, sulphur, urea, and ammonia are essential for beamhouse processes; phenol and other organic ingredients are critical for the wet-end; and acrylics, polyurethanes, and crosslinkers are key components in finishing. Quite simply, you cannot produce a finished leather article without consistent access to these inputs.
At TFL, we are relatively well positioned thanks to our diversified global production footprint and multiple sourcing options for raw materials, which have enabled us to maintain operations so far. However, the situation is becoming more challenging over time, and securing reliable access to these materials is increasingly critical to ensure we can continue to serve our customers effectively”.

TFL introduced temporary surcharges. Why was that step necessary?

“We introduced temporary surcharges to ensure continuity of supply. In the current environment, securing critical raw materials often comes at significantly higher costs, and this step was necessary to maintain reliable operations. From the outset, we took a transparent approach with our customers and partners, clearly communicating that these surcharges are strictly linked to specific cost drivers-such as product groups, manufacturing locations, and logistics routes. We also emphasized that this is a temporary measure, which will be reduced or removed as soon as conditions stabilize. We fully understand that surcharges are not welcome and can put pressure on customer relationships. However, acting early and transparently was the responsible decision to safeguard supply reliability. We continue to monitor the situation closely and are working every day with our suppliers and customers to ensure a smooth supply chain. Like everyone else, we hope for a swift resolution to the current challenges”.

S/S 2027 Materials and soles trends

The fashion, luxury and design sectors, together with the creative manufacturing industry, gathered at Fiera Milano Rho from 11 to 13 February for the presentation of the 2027 summer season.

There was a palpable sense of reassuring energy and vitality at the latest edition of LINEAPELLE, the 107th edition, despite the fact that the dates had to be brought forward due to the use of parts of the Fiera Milano Rho venue for some of the venues of the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games, which led to a reduction in the number of trade visitors (around 16,000) from 99 countries. On the exhibitor front, 848 companies took part (436 tanneries, 290 accessory suppliers, 95 synthetic material suppliers, 27 others) from 33 countries, presenting their new collections of leathers, materials and accessories for the 2027 summer season.

Read the materials report
starting from page 18 of Arsutoria #506

Read the soles report
starting from page 122 of Arsutoria #506

nnovation and the search for materials and solutions capable of expressing a very high degree of naturalness and sophisticated craftsmanship throughout the supply chain were the key areas of focus for buyers, visitors and the LINEAPELLE projects. This was evident in the 22 installations in the INTERIORS area, a creative platform now in its third edition that fosters links between design firms and leather and materials manufacturers.

There was also great interest in the talks scheduled at the Fashion & Science Theatre: ranging from sector-specific sessions (such as in-depth discussions on regulatory and technical issues relating to the leather supply chain) to more fashion-focused events, such as the conversation between journalist Mariella Milani and designer Antonio Marras.

A significant development was the debut of a new trade fair partnership with FILO – the leading exhibition for the yarn and fibre sector – which gave visitors an even broader overview of the product range on offer.

The next edition of LINEAPELLE is scheduled for 15 to 17 September 2026, once again at the Fiera Milano Rho exhibition centre.

World Day for Safety and Health at Work: Vibram renews its commitment to Work&Safety

On the occasion of World Day for Safety and Health at Work, celebrated today, April 28, Vibram—the world leader in the production of high-performance rubber soles—explains how the yellow octagon has become a global symbol of protection and innovation. With over 80 years of experience, the company continues to transform the excellence it has cultivated in the outdoor world into essential safety standards for the professional sector.

WORK & SAFETY
Vibram’s Work & Safety division did not emerge as an isolated vision, but as a natural evolution of a mission that began in 1937, when the need to ensure traction and reliability on rugged terrain led to the creation of the first rubber sole for mountaineering. With the same goal of safety and stability, Vibram entered the safety footwear sector over sixty years ago, in 1964, when Red Wing, a prestigious U.S. footwear brand, recognizing the company’s excellence in the outdoor segment, initiated a collaboration to develop high-performance soles for work footwear as well. This marked Vibram’s debut in the industrial sector, with an initial focus on the U.S. market. In Europe, expansion has occurred more recently, driven by the growing need to raise safety standards and introduce increasingly advanced technologies, especially in the most complex work environments, where equipment is not merely an accessory but a natural extension of the worker in the footwear sector.

NEW PRODUCTS
In support of this commitment to setting new safety standards in the world of safety footwear, Vibram has recently developed and introduced the Megagrip Pro compound. This state-of-the-art solution is designed to offer even higher levels of traction, particularly for workers operating in outdoor environments and on uneven or unpredictable surfaces.
Megagrip Pro represents the professional evolution of the established Megagrip technology, which has long been considered a benchmark in the world of athletic footwear for its grip performance. Applied to the Work & Safety segment, this innovation brings the same standards of excellence to work environments where stability and control are essential for daily safety.

SAFETY AT VIBRAM
For Vibram, modern safety is driven by two key factors: materials research and constant engagement with the end user, who is no longer merely a recipient but becomes an integral part of the development and innovation process.
“At Vibram, everything starts with people. Truly standing by the worker means listening to them, understanding their needs, and interpreting the challenges they face every day, to transform all of this into the right product. Our innovation doesn’t just come from the lab, but from constant dialogue with those who put our products to the test every day: the user, who in this case is involved from the very first stages of development,” says Annalaura Gatto, EMEA Marketing Manager for Vibram’s Work & Safety division. “This approach allows us to turn real-world feedback into technical solutions that offer a tangible advantage in terms of safety and stability.”
 
COLLABORATIONS

As a testament to this commitment, Vibram has recently launched a partnership with the construction company Gheller. This collaboration, designed to support the development and testing phases under real-world conditions, enables the optimization of next-generation soles, ensuring that every design addresses the challenges professionals encounter in the field.
Vibram works closely with footwear brands that rely on its soles, providing comprehensive support: from the development of the initial concept to R&D proposals, all the way through to the final design. Workers who use safety footwear with Vibram soles can thus count on a technologically advanced product, tested in every detail to meet any need.
On this symbolic day, Vibram’s history in the safety footwear sector is confirmed as a journey of continuous evolution, where innovation and responsibility intertwine to contribute to a shared goal: protecting every worker, every day.

A stage in the production of soles