M&M Academy Hub organized by Arsutoria School for the trade fairs MICAM Milano and MIPEL
More than 40 companies from the footwear and leather goods supply chain took part in a project that transformed Hall 5 at Rho Fiera into a live manufacturing hub. Over 500 students observed production firsthand through MICAM Academy (a customizable barefoot shoe) and MIPEL Factory (a personalized star-shaped leather charm). Result: over 50 customized shoes and 300 charms. The area will return for the September 2026 edition.
#INNOVATION
Arsutoria School and Volumental join forces to bring ‘scientific fitting’ into the classroom
An announcement of the collaboration with Volumental: starting in September, a 3D foot scanner will allow students to design footwear based on scientific data on foot morphology, with input from Ales Jurca (VP of Footwear Research at Volumental).
#PROJECTS
Arsutoria School towards 100 years
An interview with director Matteo Pasca on the occasion of the school’s 99th anniversary (April 15, 2026). Topics include the move to the Certosa District with Istituto Secoli, the goal of building a fashion technical education ecosystem in Milan, and future challenges posed by AI versus technical skills. Includes a tribute by Paolo Marenghi to Adriano Lunati, the school’s historic pattern-making master.
#PROJECTS
Infinite Shoe by Arsutoria School: Golden Goose, Brustia Alfameccanica, and Puntozero3D are the project partners
A research project approved by Regione Lombardia (the “Next Fashion” call) focused on the circularity of Made in Italy sneakers. Arsutoria is the lead partner for circularity metrics, Golden Goose the industrial partner, Brustia Alfameccanica handles disassembly processes, and Puntozero3D contributes additive manufacturing solutions. The goal: rethinking the end-of-life phase of footwear.
#COURSES
Designing 3D lasts. The new Arsutoria course in collaboration with NewLast
An in-depth look at the module dedicated to shoe lasts, with interviews with Paolo Marenghi (Arsutoria) and Andrea Galbiati (NewLast). It covers the digital revolution NewLast has brought to the sector (scanning, editing software) and its limits compared to human creativity. Includes a box on NewLast Group’s thirty-year history.
#COURSES
3D Bag Design: the course combining Rhinoceros and CLO3D in the workflow of the digital bag designer
An overview of the new intensive 5-week course taught by Laura La Marca: two weeks on metal hardware design with Rhinoceros, three weeks on CLO3D for building the bag’s virtual prototype, responding to the industry’s growing demand for “digital twins” in leather goods.
On July 13, the European Commission published the delegated act that updates and simplifies the list of products covered by the European Union Deforestation Regulation (EUDR). The final text confirms what had already been outlined in the draft released in May: cattle hides, at any stage of processing, will not fall within the scope of the regulation. This is an important milestone for the tanning sector and the associations representing it, including UNIC – Concerie Italiane and Cotance, which have been engaged on this issue since the legislative process began in 2021. This is a significant result, but it represents a crucial step rather than the final stage of the process.
The Commission’s Rationale The comments gathered during the public consultation period reinforced the Commission’s position on the appropriateness of excluding bovine leather from the EUDR. Brussels recognizes that hides and skins are a byproduct of the livestock industry and that tanneries lack the necessary tools to obtain all the information required by the regulation. The Commission also points out that including only bovine leather—without extending the requirements to finished leather products—would have created a market distortion. Such a decision, rather than reducing the risks associated with deforestation, would simply have shifted those risks to other areas of the global market.
Next Steps With the publication of the delegated act and its notification to the Council of the European Union and the European Parliament, a two-month scrutiny period now begins. Although the Parliament may request an extension of the scrutiny period, this seems unlikely. If no objections are raised by September 13, the act will be published in the Official Journal of the European Union and will definitively enter into force. At that point, the exclusion of bovine leather from the scope of the EUDR will also become official.
At the AICC Conference held on July 9, it was announced that the IULTCS (International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies) has entrusted Italy and the Italian Association of Leather Chemists (AICC) with organizing the 2029 IULTCS World Congress, which will follow the event scheduled to take place in Mexico in October 2027. The Italian bid was presented by Tomaso Pellegrini, recently elected president of the AICC. The proposal highlighted the leading role of the Italian tanning industry—internationally recognized for the excellence of its integrated supply chain—by offering a scientific program focused on innovation, sustainability, the circular economy, and digital transformation. The proposal also includes technical visits to Italy’s main tanning districts and opportunities for dialogue and collaboration between the research and industrial communities. The IULTCS Executive Committee, consisting of twenty members, unanimously approved the project. The 2029 edition of the Congress will take on even greater significance as it will coincide with the 125th anniversary of the founding of the AICC, celebrating over a century of commitment to promoting leather science and technology. “We are deeply honored by the trust that IULTCS has placed in the AICC and the entire Italian leather industry,” said President Tomaso Pellegrini. “We look forward to welcoming colleagues from around the world and organizing a conference that will highlight scientific excellence, promote innovation, and strengthen international cooperation.” The organizational phase will now begin, which includes establishing the Organizing Committee, selecting the host city for the Congress, and finalizing the scientific program. Past experience suggests this will be a major event. One need only recall the success of the EuroCongress organized by the AICC in September 2022, titled “Rinascimento: The Next Leather Generation,” which attracted approximately 520 participants from 21 countries, confirming the Association’s ability to promote events of international scope.
It’s still more than a year away, but people are already starting to talk about the 39th IULTCS Congress, scheduled to take place in León, Mexico, from October 25 to 28, 2027. The flagship event of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS), which is held every two years in a different country, promises to be more significant than ever. First and foremost, this is due to the host city’s significance and appeal to the leather sector: León is the heart of one of the world’s leading leather-producing regions and will offer delegates the opportunity to gain firsthand insight into the Mexican leather industry. This time, the host will be the León Association of Leather Chemists and Technologists (AQTCL), which will work in collaboration with the Guanajuato State Chamber of the Tanning Industry (CICUR). Their shared goal is to bring together scientists, technicians, researchers, manufacturers, brands, chemical suppliers, machinery experts, and sustainability leaders from around the world. In line with the IULTCS’s statutory objectives, the conference will serve as a global platform for sharing the latest advances in science, technology, and innovation in the leather sector, while encouraging collaboration across the entire leather supply chain. Participants will have the opportunity to connect with international experts, decision-makers, universities, brands, tanners, and suppliers, exchanging ideas and innovations that can help shape the next generation of leather production. For more details, visit https://congressiultcsleon2027.mx
In the kelp forests of the North Pacific, there is an animal that weighs thirty kilos and sustains an entire ecosystem: the sea otter. As long as it is there, the sea urchins remain in check and the kelp grows in columns as tall as buildings. Remove it, and within a few years the sea urchins devour everything. What remains is a barren seabed, a ‘sea urchin desert’. No one had planned this disaster. All it took was for one link in the chain to disappear.
Bear that barren seabed in mind, because the story told by the Assomac General Assembly, which met on 18 June in Milan, is precisely this: what happens when a link in the chain comes loose.
EIGHT TO ONE
The most striking figure is not a percentage, but a ratio. In Vigevano, the historic heartland of the footwear machinery industry, there are now eight machinery manufacturers for every footwear manufacturer. Eight to one. An ecosystem in which the upstream players in the supply chain have remained, whilst the end-users have left. Viewed in this light, the supply chain bears a strong resemblance to a barren seabed: everything still appears to be in its place, but the balance has already been disrupted.
The sector’s figures confirm this impression. 2025 ended with a decline of 11 per cent, following a 12 per cent drop in 2024, resulting in an estimated output of 512 million euros. The number of companies fell from 225 to 220, the workforce from 3,800 to 3,700, and exports from 385 to 338 million. These figures point to a decidedly negative trend.
THE SHARING THAT IS MELTING AWAY
In 2005, Italy accounted for 42 per cent of global trade in the sector. By 2025, this had fallen to 27 per cent. Fifteen percentage points evaporated in twenty years. Over the same period, China’s share rose to 49 per cent, making it the world’s leading exporter. And here we must remain realistic, because this overtaking is not down to skill alone: Beijing benefits from public support that is up to eight times higher than the OECD average. It is not a level playing field.
But it would be too easy to focus solely on the decline. The downturn is not uniform, and it is precisely in these differences that the future lies. Tannery machinery, which had held up for years, fell by 24.49 per cent: the sharpest decline. Leather goods machinery fell by 9.80 per cent, footwear machinery by 4.08 per cent, whilst spare parts and maintenance remained essentially stable (-0.64 per cent).
The findings of the economic analysis therefore show that the sector has undergone a profound structural transformation over the last thirty years. The number of firms and employees has gradually declined, whilst production and exports have remained at relatively high levels thanks to a process of specialisation, concentration and increased added value.
The sector remains strongly oriented towards international markets, with exports representing a structural and decisive component of turnover. However, recent trends highlight growing volatility in demand and greater exposure to global economic cycles.
At the same time, the Italian user sectors – tanning, footwear and leather goods – have followed different trajectories of development. The tanning and footwear sectors have recorded a significant reduction in production volumes, the number of firms and employment, though this has been accompanied by a gradual shift towards mid-to-high-end and high value-added production. The leather goods sector, on the other hand, has experienced a long period of strong growth, driven by the expansion of the luxury market and international demand from major brands, although it is now showing increasing vulnerability linked to the slowdown in the luxury sector.
The international competitive analysis confirms Italy’s central role in the segments requiring the highest level of technological specialisation, particularly in tanning machinery, leather goods machinery and spare parts. In these sectors, the Italian industry continues to maintain a significant competitive advantage based on quality, know-how, customisation capabilities and integration with production supply chains.
The competitive landscape is, however, markedly different in the footwear machinery sector, where China has consolidated a dominant position thanks to its ability to dominate high-volume production markets and more standardised segments.
The comparison with China is one of the key factors. Analyses show that the two countries exhibit profoundly different industrial models. Italy maintains a strong presence in the more sophisticated markets and premium segments, whilst China focuses its growth on emerging markets and higher-volume production. However, China’s ongoing technological advancement and growing capacity for international penetration make it increasingly necessary for Italian companies to strengthen the distinctive features of their offering and accelerate innovation processes.
The evolution of the sector’s industrial and technological models is also particularly significant. Machinery is no longer merely a physical asset, but is increasingly becoming an integrated, connected and service-oriented technological platform. Digitalisation, automation, software, artificial intelligence, predictive maintenance, remote technical support and data management are playing an ever-greater role in building competitive advantage.
Furthermore, a number of major strategic challenges that the sector will be called upon to address in the coming years are highlighted. Among these, the following are of particular importance:
• the expansion of companies’ scale and capital base;
• generational succession and the evolution of governance models;
• the need for increasing investment in technological innovation;
• the development of more structured international sales and support networks;
•
• the ability to establish a presence in new emerging markets, particularly Africa,
India and South-East Asia;
• the evolution of international trade fairs into permanent platforms for rela-
tions and industrial integration.
Analysis of the financial statements confirms that, whilst the sector is experiencing increasing competitive pressure and declining profitability, it maintains, on the whole, a sound capital and financial structure.
Companies generally demonstrate high levels of capitalisation, good financial autonomy, adequate liquidity and a gradual reduction in financial leverage. This solidity is now one of the sector’s main strengths and provides the necessary foundation to support investment, transformation processes and international growth strategies.
However, certain critical issues remain. In fact, recent years have seen a gradual squeeze on operating margins, greater volatility in profitability, a slowdown in productivity and a deterioration in working capital management, particularly in the footwear and leather goods machinery sector, which appears to be more exposed to fluctuations in international demand.
The tannery machinery sector, on the other hand, shows greater resilience and a better ability to absorb economic shocks, thanks to a more balanced operational structure and less volatility in financial results.
Overall, the picture is of a sector that still retains significant strengths – technological expertise, industrial heritage, international reputation and financial soundness – but which now finds itself at a decisive stage in its evolution.
The challenge in the coming years will not only concern the ability to defend existing market shares, but above all the opportunity to redefine the sector’s competitive model within a profoundly changed global context. Innovation, technological integration, advanced internationalisation, collaboration between companies, scaling up and the enhancement of skills will be increasingly decisive factors.
Finally, the evidence suggests that maintaining Italy’s leadership will require an increasing ability to develop shared strategies and long-term industrial visions. Only through investment, the pooling of expertise and the strengthening of its international presence will the sector be able to continue to serve as a global benchmark for technologies dedicated to the tanning, footwear and leather goods supply chains.
In the 1950s, an Italian industrial magazine was edited by a poet. It was called “Civiltà delle Macchine” (Civilisation of Machines), commissioned by Finmeccanica, and at its helm were Leonardo Sinisgalli – an engineer who wrote verse, or perhaps a poet who designed machines, depending on how you look at it – and Giuseppe Luraghi, a manager who had previously worked at Pirelli, Lanerossi and Alfa Romeo. Their idea was simple and, for the time, almost heretical: technology, industry, culture and beauty are not separate worlds. They are part of the same vision for the country.
Seventy years later, in the hall of the Fondazione Cariplo Conference Centre, that same insight has returned to the fore. Except that now it is not being used to celebrate an economic miracle. It is being used to stem the bleeding.
On 18 June, the ASSOMAC General Assembly presented the figures for the footwear, leather goods and tanning technology sector. We examine these figures in greater detail in the following pages, but here we note that they are still on a downward trend.
THE SUPPLY CHAIN, BEFORE THE PRODUCT
Mauro Bergozza, president of ASSOMAC, chose not to begin his speech by discussing foreign markets or tariffs. He began with a principle, which he repeated as one repeats something one truly cares about: ‘There is no “Made in Italy” without the supply chain. There is no supply chain without manufacturing. There is no manufacturing without technology.’ The argument is that ‘Made in Italy’ does not come into being when the product is sold. It comes into being much earlier – in capital goods, components, chemicals and expertise – and holds up as long as all the links hold up. When one weakens, the entire chain falters.
Herein lies the most interesting reversal in the report. For years, the sector has told itself a convenient story: production can move elsewhere, as long as design, research and know-how remain in Italy. Reality has disproved this notion. Supply chains do not break painlessly: they shift. And when they shift, they do so in their entirety. First the end product migrates, then the suppliers, then the investments, and finally the very capacity to innovate. Technology is the last to leave, but it does leave.
The Vigevano district is the case study for this diagnosis. There, the ratio of machinery manufacturers to footwear manufacturers has now reached eight to one. A region built on the interdependence between those who make shoes and those who make the machines to produce them has now become so unbalanced that it is almost unrecognisable. Bergozza puts it bluntly: the problem is not China; China is the consequence. The problem is that we are hollowing out our supply chains all by ourselves.
Hence the concrete proposal, the one that gives practical meaning to the analysis: a permanent supply chain round table bringing together representatives from the fields of technology, materials and finished products – footwear, leather goods and tanning. Not yet another body, but a permanent forum for developing common strategies and presenting a united front to national and European institutions. Because – and this point applies beyond the sector as well – individual companies no longer compete on their own today. It is industrial ecosystems, supported by long-term public strategies, that compete.
Around this idea, the Assembly has set out concrete measures: ongoing monitoring of foreign markets, new industrial partnerships, generational continuity, trade fairs as a promotional tool, and digital and organisational transformation. It has become clear that none of these challenges can be tackled by a single company acting alone. And the message reached a distinguished audience: from Minister Urso’s adviser, Roberto Luongo, to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs with Alessandra Pastorelli, to the ICE Agency with Director-General Lorenzo Galanti, right through to the presidents of Assocalzaturifici, UNIC and Assopellettieri – Giovanna Ceolini, Alessandro Iliprandi and Claudia Sequi.
Within this discourse lies a call that raises the bar beyond the sector’s boundaries: a European and national industrial policy that is up to the task. Not a defensive policy, but one capable of fostering investment, scaling up, and the reshoring of high value-added production. And one that regards the technologies underpinning ‘Made in Italy’ as a strategic national asset, to be managed in a manner consistent with the country’s industrial interests. Within this framework, Federmacchine is called upon to act as a facilitator in dealings with Brussels.
AFRICA, NOW
If there is one section where the tone of the report shifts, it is the one on internationalisation. In particular, the issue of Africa. ‘The Mattei Plan is an important signal. But we need to step up the pace. Because Italy’s industrial presence must grow today, before other competitors further consolidate positions that will be harder to reach or overcome tomorrow.’
One observation, which emerged during the Assembly’s discussions, explains why this is the case. China’s advance in Africa is not about price: it is about presence, about building relationships before others do. This is precisely the ground on which the Mattei Plan is seeking to establish itself. The experience in Kenya, cited by Bergozza as an example of what happens when embassies, the Italian Trade Agency (ICE) and businesses pull in the same direction, is a small-scale model of what is needed on a larger scale.
Alongside this are the agreements Europe is forging with Mercosur, India, Indonesia and Mexico, and a trade fair presence that will see an Italian pavilion at the ANPIC fair in León, Mexico.
There is also a detail that adds food for thought to the many points already raised. Entrepreneurs report that companies in the sector hardly produce anything standardised anymore. The technical department is working at full capacity because every machine becomes a bespoke piece, designed around a client who, in turn, must innovate in order not to fall behind. This is both an asset and a cost: extremely high levels of expertise, technicians who take years to train, and the necessary funding.
The trade fair itself has changed in nature. It is no longer a place where sales are made, but one where people meet: this is what the tanners say, having scaled back from the twelve events a year of the past to the two editions of Lineapelle considered truly indispensable.
And here the circle is complete with another voice from the Assembly, that of those representing footwear manufacturers: in Italy, the entire value chain exists, from tanning machinery to the finished product, and this is unique in the world. Taken piece by piece, every link in this supply chain is currently seeing a decline in figures. Taken as a whole, however, it retains something that resembles not resilience, but anti-fragility: the ability to emerge from a setback stronger than before. Provided we stick together.
Sinisgalli used to write verses amongst his technical drawings because he realised that the machine, on its own, tells us nothing. Seventy years on, the sector that manufactures machinery for the leather and footwear industries is asking the same of Italy: not to defend a product, but to recognise a way of life. Before that, too, moves on.
Rich in content, insights, and food for thought, the General Assembly of UNPAC-affiliated leather chemical companies—held on June 24 at the Po.te.co. headquarters in Santa Croce sull’Arno—offered a wide-ranging discussion on the sector’s main challenges. The meeting was further enriched by the participation of representatives from all associations in the leather supply chain and from local governments in the Tuscan district—a presence that demonstrated a renewed awareness of the need to work together as a unified system and address the challenges facing the sector with a shared approach.
The first guest to take the microphone was Fulvia Bacchi, general manager of UNIC – Concerie Italiane, who recounted the long battle waged by tanners to have leather excluded from the EUDR—an outcome now nearing final confirmation but achieved only after a process that, over the past two years, has required a considerable investment of resources and energy. Bacchi also expressed concern about the direction of European policies, which have allocated substantial investments to the bioeconomy and biomaterials, including funding for projects specifically dedicated to developing alternatives to leather. In her remarks, UNIC general manager concluded by thanking leather chemists for their “well-established” collaboration with UNIC, which is set to grow even stronger. This is confirmed by UNPAC’s recent admission to COTANCE as an associate member and the association’s presence with its own desk at the new Brussels headquarters of the European tanners’ confederation: initiatives that are part of a strategy aimed at ever-greater cohesion and representation of the entire tanning supply chain.
Pierluigi Braggion
The President’s Report Titled “The Power of Leather: Identity and Communication,” the address by President Pierluigi Braggion—who was reelected for the next two-year term—focused on the need to find a new way of telling the story of leather. “For years, sustainability has been approached primarily as a matter of compliance, reporting, and communication,” explains Braggion. “We are now witnessing the emergence of a new paradigm: shifting from an approach viewed as an additional cost to one that sees sustainability as a catalyst for evolution and industrial efficiency.” Hence the urgency to learn how to “highlight the role of the tanning industry as a strategic lever for preserving a millennia-old heritage,” including by raising awareness through the education of future generations. Not only that: “We must also invest in digitization and the integration of artificial intelligence, as well as in innovation, with a particular focus on product circularity and process sustainability.” It is in this direction that UNPAC has been working in recent years, developing “an identity-building project—the first and only one of its kind in the world”—which involves the creation of a database of chemical matrices for defining the LCA of leather tanning auxiliaries. Finally, a critical note was made regarding the proliferation of voluntary certifications, which “create an enormous and unjustified workload for the industry,” leading to the conclusion that “a single, harmonized audit and compliance system is needed, in which the drivers must be shared with the Italian tanning district.”
Technical Presentations The speakers who took the floor after the president, accompanied as always by Secretary Maurizio Maggioni, provided an opportunity to share visions, experiences, and perspectives on the future of the sector. Vice President Andrea Meucci reported on the results of UNPAC’s numerous activities carried out at the technical roundtables, while consultant Paola Ulivi (Danger and Safety) presented the general principles and application to the tanning sector of the new European regulation on microplastics, which requires careful attention. Francesco Troisi then discussed the challenges posed by the new ZDHC protocols, highlighting the valuable contribution that UNPAC has made—and continues to make—to the Progressive level of the Chemicals to Zero (CtZ) program, which is currently being defined. Arianna Civiletti (SPIN360), on the other hand, outlined the process undertaken by the sector to define the LCA of leather chemical auxiliaries, which involved 21 companies and led to the completion of twenty LCA studies for each member, resulting in the creation of a database of over 400 products. Other guests who spoke at the meeting included: Luca Tempesti (Poteco), Riccardo Bandini (Assoconciatori), Gionata Moroni (ASSA—Association of Contract Manufacturers), Riccardo Boschetti (Veneto Leather District), Agostino Apolito (ASSOMAC), Sabrina Frontini (ICEC), Renato Bertoli (ITS Cosmo – Green Leather Fashion Manager), Tiziana Gambicorti (AICC), Gianluigi Calvanese (Experimental Station for Hides and Tanning Materials), Roberto Giannoni (Mayor of Santa Croce sull’Arno), Fabio Mini (Mayor of Castelfranco di Sotto), and, via message, Geoff Holmes (President of IULTCS).
The Current State of the Leather Tanning Chemicals Sector The General Assembly provided an opportunity to take stock of the leather tanning chemicals sector, which today comprises 194 companies and 1,900 employees. In 2025, these companies generated revenue of approximately 810 million euros, with exports accounting for 39% of that total. There are 74 companies affiliated with UNPAC (with approximately 1,450 employees), generating domestic revenue of about 427 million euros and estimated foreign revenue of around 260 million. The future does not look bright. According to UNPAC, current market data point to a negative outlook for corporate revenues in the international leather supply chain by 2026. This negative trend is linked to geopolitical and economic tensions that are affecting the supply of raw materials and energy dynamics, which are having a significant impact on the supply chain. Weighing further on revenue is the decline in consumption of auxiliaries and commodities in the automotive and luxury sectors, which is expected to settle at around 13% for the current year, with Tuscany recording a volume decrease of over 20%, while for Veneto the decline stands at 8%. “ “Based on economic data and the current geopolitical situation,” explained Braggion, “our oil-based resources are not sufficient to counteract the current economic situation, which is weighing on our operations due to stagnant demand and price increases for basic chemicals, as well as energy-related tensions, which are estimated to have increased our costs by 15% compared to the previous year” .
The New UNPAC Board of Directors
At its annual meeting, UNPAC renewed its Board of Directors, re-electing Pierluigi Braggion as president, with Andrea Meucci serving as vice president and Laura Vantin as treasurer. The new Board of Directors is composed of: Massimo Baldini (Biokimica), Gianmario Cazzola (CGRD), Diego Cisco (GSC Group), Marco Frediani (KLF Tecnochimica), Francesco Lapi (FGL International), Andrea Meucci (Dermacolor), Andrea Montecalvo (Alanchim), Luca Pelfer (Alpa), Eric Poles (Silvachimica), Claudio Rosati (LMF Biokimica), and Laura Vantin (Chimica Vemar).
Eighty years of history spanning the association, industry, and culture. Looking toward the future. The 80th Annual Meeting of UNIC – Italian Tanners (at Po.Te.Co.), the 80th Annual General Meeting of UNIC – Italian Tannery Association, an event that celebrated a symbolic milestone for the association founded on April 9, 1946. The association represents one of the most significant sectors of Made in Italy, with a value of approximately 4 billion euros and recognized international leadership in quality, innovation, and environmental commitment.
During the Assembly, Alessandro Iliprandi (CEO of Bonaudo Spa), a historic Italian company specializing in the production of high-quality leathers for the luxury segment, was elected president of UNIC. Alessandro Iliprandi is the association’s 19th president and will be joined by vice presidents Matteo Mastrotto (Rino Mastrotto Group), Fabrizio Nuti (Nuti Ivo Group), and Gianni Russo (Russo di Casandrino).
“This is a particularly difficult time for the industry,” says Alessandro Iliprandi. “We face many challenges, but we have vision, courage, and a constant drive to improve on our side. Among the priorities of my term will be strengthening collaboration with our customers throughout the supply chain, ensuring even more effective representation at the European level, and supporting a culture of training and leather craftsmanship, with a particular focus on the younger generations and the dissemination of skills.”
The Assembly also provided an opportunity to look back on the association’s eighty years of activity through the presentation of RADICI, the historical volume produced by UNIC that chronicles the evolution of Italian tanning from the post-World War II era to the present day. Through documents, images, and testimonials, the book highlights the value of an industrial, cultural, and manufacturing heritage that has accompanied and continues to accompany the international growth of Italian leather and has helped shape the sector’s identity.
A heritage that, as outgoing president Fabrizio Nuti noted in his farewell address, represents a strategic resource for the future: “UNIC is not just a representative body. It is also a forum for dialogue and growth for the sector, helping our companies defend and enhance their production model.”
The 80th-anniversary celebration comes at a particularly challenging time for the tanning industry. In 2025, Italian tanning production declined by nearly 6% in value and 4% in volume, while exports fell by 5%. The number of companies and employees also declined, confirming that the economic outlook remains difficult.
Straddling tradition and innovation, culture and industry, UNIC’s 80th anniversary reaffirms the association’s central role in representing, protecting, and promoting Italian leather worldwide, supporting companies as they face the challenges ahead in the coming years.
Italian footwear represents not only a supply chain of excellence recognised worldwide, but a living cultural heritage that continues to evolve thanks to its ability to combine tradition and innovation, creativity and manufacturing expertise, quality and research – built up over time through the work, skills and passion of generations of entrepreneurs, technicians, designers and trainers. Building on this premise, the process to nominate the Art of Italian Footwear for inclusion on UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage is now officially underway. An initiative promoted by Assocalzaturifici, Museimpresa, CERCAL and the Politecnico Calzaturiero through the Promoting Committee chaired by Giovanna Ceolini, established with the aim of recognising, promoting and passing on to future generations one of the most representative aspects of Made in Italy. The art of Italian shoemaking would be the first in the world to receive UNESCO recognition.
Supported by the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy, the project is a sector-wide initiative involving the worlds of business, education, culture and research, with the aim of establishing a shared approach capable of promoting the manufacturing, economic and social culture of a key sector in the country.
On 11 June, at the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy, the Promotional Committee for the Safeguarding and Promotion of the Art of Italian Footwear will be officially established; this body will lead the nomination process.
“The UNESCO nomination stems from a desire to recognise and promote a heritage that belongs to the whole country. Italian footwear is an expression of a culture of craftsmanship that combines technical skills, creativity, regional identity and the capacity for innovation. Through this process, we wish to affirm the cultural value of our know-how and strengthen our commitment to passing it on to future generations,” stated Giovanna Ceolini.
From the Diadora Research & Development Center comes A.Box, the technology that represents the new frontier of thermal and functional comfort in safety footwear and tackles extreme summer temperatures with a thermoregulation system optimized for workers’ well-being. This innovation, patented by Diadora Utility, was created to achieve new heights of performance and breathability, through a perfect synergy of design and materials. The large side ventilation holes revolutionize the shoe’s architecture, providing constant airflow to the foot and a dry microclimate that reduces the sensation of fatigue. At the same time, the unique positioning of the anti-puncture insert enhances the sole’s cushioning and responsiveness. The design is completed by the next-generation Ariatex membrane, developed by the Diadora Research Center, which combines waterproofing, mechanical strength, and breathability twice that of the already high standards of previous models. Diadora Utility has integrated the system in different ways across two flagship models: Run A.Box and Glove A.Box.
