At the recent Simac trade fair in Milan, Zünd, together with its partners Mind and Mindhive Global, presented the Dectura workflow, which makes leather detection, classification and cutting even more precise, faster and more reliable in a fully interconnected system. The trade fair visitors were able to witness the interaction between AI, machine vision and digital cutting systems live at the fair.
Until now, the evaluation and qualification of leather has been a critical process, mainly manual, subject to errors and often with inconsistent results.
With Dectura, leading technology companies – Zünd, Mind and Mindhive Global – present an innovation that revolutionises leather cutting. Thanks to artificial intelligence, image-based quality control, the most advanced nesting and cutting software and powerful digital cutting systems, Dectura guarantees a highly automated and standardised process.
The leather processing line essentially consists of Mindhive FinishSelect″, which, with the help of AI, is able to capture, evaluate and measure leathers in just a few seconds, then using the MindCUT software developed by Portuguese partner Mind and the digital cutting technology of the Zünd cutter.
For leather processing companies, Dectura represents a quantum leap towards intelligent, data-driven processes that are perfectly reproducible and fully integrated digitally, with consistent quality over time.
The digital transformation of the footwear industry can no longer ignore integrated, scalable and data-driven solutions.Footwear 4.0 is an Industry 4.0 platform based on modular architecture, capable of providing cognitive assistance, predictive maintenance and intelligent quality control on a large scale.
The centrality of the Digital Twin guarantees a convergent interface between man, machine and product, paving the way for a truly data-driven, resilient and adaptive factory. Footwear 4.0 is not just a platform, but a modular digital environment designed to make the footwear industry more resilient, efficient and data-driven. Thanks to the integration of predictive maintenance, cognitive assistance and intelligent quality control, each company can customise its own digital transition path, starting from its real needs and arriving at a concrete and sustainable transformation.
Main modules of the platform
1. Smart and Predictive Maintenance
The first module focuses on smart maintenance of footwear machinery. Each machine is equipped with IoT sensors to monitor vibrations, temperatures, pressures and other critical parameters. This data is analysed by artificial intelligence algorithms to predict failures and plan maintenance interventions. All elements are represented within an interactive 3D Digital Twin, accessible via a browser. Users can thus view the status of the machines in real time, receive notifications of anomalies, consult the maintenance history and take targeted action. This digital twin is not just a visual representation, but a dynamic, real-time replica, powered by sensor data collected directly from the machines. The module offers in concrete a predictive notifications before failure, a technical dashboard (OEE, MTBF, machine status), a history of interventions per machine, an operator interface with maintenance instructions in AR, an integration with the quality module (e.g. does an anomaly also produce defects?). Added value is a drastic reduction in unexpected downtime, a planning based on real data rather than a fixed calendar, an improved machine service life, data can also be shared with machine manufacturers for future improvements.
The second module is dedicated to intelligent operator support, both during operation and training. It provides operators with advanced operational and decision-making support thanks to integration with AR/VR devices, digital interfaces and intelligent guidance systems. In particular, it connects to the Digital Twin of the predictive maintenance module: when the latter detects a need for intervention, it automatically sends the operator’s AR smart glasses an interactive checklist with the machine to be reached, the planned operations and instructions superimposed visually on the real machine, so that the operator can go to the machine and follow a visual guide for the safe and correct execution of the activity. Thanks to integration with augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) devices, the operator receives step-by-step contextual instructions visible on smart glasses, dynamic digital checklists, an immersive training in simulated environments. In addition, data from physical assistance devices (e.g. exoskeletons) can also be integrated to optimise ergonomics and safety.
Specifically, the module provides AR/VR instructions, constantly updated digital checklists, access to manuals and resources, and support from biometric devices. It also reduces errors and accidents, enables faster and more accurate interventions, reduces on-the-job training, and gives junior staff greater autonomy.
3. AI-Powered Quality Assurance
The third module manages automated quality control, integrating artificial vision systems and AI algorithms to identify defects in components or finished products in real time (e.g. incorrect stitching, imprecise cuts, aesthetic defects). Each machine is equipped with sensors or cameras that collect data on the product: this data is analysed and displayed within the Digital Twin, activating a second quality-oriented display mode. Specifically, the module offers automatic defect detection, quality reports by machine/shift, immediate feedback on processes, logging and archiving for audits. It also allows for less reworking and waste, better process control, direct integration with maintenance/training, and support for quality certifications.
Module integration: intelligent interoperability
Although each module can be used independently, the real strength of the platform lies in their integration. A detected quality defect can trigger a predictive analysis of the status of the machine that generated it. Scheduled maintenance work is notified via AR, visually guided and digitally tracked and a recurring operator error may suggest the activation of a specific VR training module. All data is managed by a scalable, secure cloud infrastructure that is accessible from any device and is presented according to the user’s role (operator, supervisor, technology manufacturer). A single interface therefore allows you to monitor the operating status of the machine, view detected defects, access customisable statistical reports and quality KPIs. The continuous feedback logic allows the system to adapt production parameters or signal the need for maintenance/training if defects are recurrent.
There is a continent that has abundant raw materials but still struggles to transform them into value. Africa has endless herds, high-quality hides and an increasingly clear political will to industrialise its production processes. Yet without technology, all this potential risks remaining an unfulfilled opportunity.
The figures for 2024 paint a picture of a changing reality: Africa imported leather processing, footwear and leather goods machinery worth €46 million, 6% of global imports in the sector. Some might say that is not much. A market under construction, say the forward-thinkers. And above all: a market where Italy leads the way.
The main African importing countries were: Tunisia, Nigeria, Egypt, South Africa, Algeria, Morocco, Kenya, Uganda, Ethiopia and Tanzania. These are economies characterised by a strong manufacturing tradition or a growing interest in the leather and fashion industry, with expanding domestic markets and a growing focus on exports.
ITALIAN TRICOLOUR IN POLE POSITION
With a share of 42.40% of total African imports, Italy remains the main supplier of technology for the sector. But the aggregate data hides even more significant nuances. In the tannery machinery sector, Italy’s share soars to 59.71%, with destinations ranging from Egypt to South Africa, Uganda to Namibia. In the spare parts segment – a barometer of long-term confidence – the figure reaches 61.47%, a sign that those who choose Italian machines continue to invest in their maintenance.
The picture is more complex for machinery forfootwear and leather goods, where Italy holds a 25.45% share: here, Chinese competition is making itself felt, focusing on aggressive pricing. Yet in countries such as Tunisia and Morocco – districts oriented towards exports to Europe – Italian technology maintains solid positions, built on quality and reliability.
ASSOMAC’S STRATEGY: COOPERATION
It is in this scenario that Assomac, with its network of companies in the sector, and Simac Tanning Tech come into play. As part of its mission to promote Italian technologies for footwear, leather goods and tanning internationally, Assomac has embarked on a structured process of cooperation with several African countries.
During the Simac Tanning Tech event, attention to Africa’s potential was expressed by the presence of institutional and industrial delegations from Egypt, Kenya, Morocco, Tunisia, South Africa, Ethiopia and Tanzania, among others, thanks in part to the activities of the ICE Agency’s foreign network.
The Association promotes a model based on technology transfer, professional training and support for the creation of modern industrial districts.
In Senegal, an invitation from the Municipality of Dalifort-Foirail paved the way for a feasibility study to strengthen the local leather district. The Italy-Senegal Business Forum in Dakar allowed for direct discussions with local institutions and tanneries.
In Kenya, collaboration with the Kenya Association of Manufacturers is aimed at a structural agreement to modernise the supply chain, while dialogue with Equity Bank aims to facilitate access to credit for those investing in Italian technologies.
In Egypt, support continues for Robbiki Leather City, the new industrial district 40 km from Cairo. The transfer of tanneries to the new production area will be completed by the end of 2025.
In Tunisia, the AICS credit line of €55 million supports the purchase of Italian machinery by local SMEs. In Niger, the PISIE project provides technical assistance in the districts of Tahoua and Tamaské. Finally, in Ethiopia, a direct channel with the government has been established to explore industrial development paths and future B2B missions.
AN INVESTMENT IN THE FUTURE
Italy’s presence in Africa is not the result of improvisation, but of a long-term strategy. A strategy that the Mattei Plan, developed by the Italian government, frames as a national priority and which finds one of its most credible assets in leather and footwear machinery. Because selling technology also means exporting an industrial model: the Italian model, based on expertise, relationships and vision.
“A new way of doing trade fairs!”. This is how the presentation of the new project begins, which has seen Assocalzaturifici and Assopellettieri working in close synergy.
MICAM and MIPEL are strengthening their collaboration within Fiera Milano Rho by presenting ‘Reinventing MIPEL & MICAM’, a strategic project designed to further enhance the experience of visitors and exhibitors and increase the competitiveness of the two events on the international trade fair scene.
The partner in this transformation is Lombardini22, a leading company in the architecture and engineering sector, chosen for its ability to develop dynamic, narrative spaces with a high design impact thanks to an integrated approach that involves architecture, interior design, communication and sustainability.
Giorgio Passagno (CEO MICAM), Claudia Sequi (President MIPEL), Giovanna Ceolini (President MICAM), Federica Bevilaqua (Director MIPEL) and Cristian Catania (Lombardini22)
For the February 2026 edition, which will coincide with the Milan-Cortina Winter Olympic Games, the MIPEL experience will be completely redesigned: the event will move to the front of Pavilion 5 of Fiera Milano Rho, gaining greater visibility and centrality within the exhibition centre and transforming this change into a lever to profoundly renew the identity of the fair.
The ‘concept layout – unplugged’ of Pavilion 5 created by Lombardini22
The layout will be redesigned by Lombardini22 to make the visit clearer, more immersive and immediately legible, with optimised routes and new areas dedicated to product, innovation and creativity, while the pre-fitted exhibition modules will also be reinterpreted in a contemporary and functional key to meet the needs of exhibiting companies. Alongside these new features, MIPEL will confirm the projects that have been at the heart of the event for years: Showcase, the space dedicated to dialogue between design, research and craftsmanship; MIPEL Livestreaming, the live shopping format, extremely popular with exhibitors, with international livestreamers; and finally, the area dedicated to product storytelling and Autumn/Winter 2026/27 trends, developed for the occasion in synergy with MICAM with the aim of showcasing emerging trends in the leather goods and footwear sector.
At the centre of Hall 5, M&M – The Hub will take shape, a new space designed to host initiatives and projects developed in full synergy between MIPEL and MICAM, with the aim of offering visitors to the two events an integrated, contemporary experience rich in valuable content. The Hub will host MICAM Academy and MIPEL Factory, brought together in a single entity that combines training, research, technical experimentation and professional development. M&M – The Hub will thus become the beating heart of the collaboration between the two fairs, while at the same time enhancing the specific characteristics of the two sectors.
The presence of Italian Startup, the project carried out in collaboration with ITA-Agency and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation (MAECI), has also been confirmed, which will shine the spotlight on a selection of emerging Italian companies with a high level of innovation and technology.
There will also be a space dedicated to products, offering a concise and curated overview of the main trends for the Autumn/Winter 2026–2027 season. Finally, a relaxation area will also be set up, where visitors can take a break from business and enjoy moments of rest in a comfortable environment.
A moment from the presentation of the “Reinventing MIPEL & MICAM” project
“At a time of great transformation for our sector, this project will help us to showcase our trade fairs, our products and the sector in a new and contemporary way, so that we can continue to support companies in their international growth”, says Claudia Sequi, President of MIPEL.
MICAM Milano will also begin a new layout of Halls 1 and 3 in February, which, together with Halls 2 and 4, will make the visitor experience more coherent, clear and functional, facilitating the buyer experience and enhancing the various product areas. MICAM’s institutional areas, such as the VIP Buyers Lounge, the Restaurant and the Press Office, will be located at the end of Hall 1, while MICAM Next, with seminars curated by WIRED Italia, will be located at the end of Hall 3, together with the Emerging Designer and Future of Retail areas.
According to Giovanna Ceolini, President of MICAM, “this trajectory, initiated with KPMG’s business plan, confirms that synergy is the key to transforming different identities and needs into a shared ecosystem based on the ability to listen to markets and companies. We must work to ensure that our trade fairs, which are currently among the most important in the world, remain so for a long time to come.”
The initiative is part of Fashion Link Milano, which brings together MICAM, MIPEL, Milano Fashion & Jewels, Sì Sposaitalia Collezioni and The One Milano in February, offering buyers a complete overview of the latest fashion and accessories at the same time and in a single location.
What about the Winter Olympics? Ceolini replies: “They are a great opportunity for Milan and Lombardy. The problems that may arise in terms of hospitality should not be underestimated: lack of beds and higher costs. But we have worked with Fiera Milano on this issue too, and we should not have any repercussions. The number of exhibitors already registered for the January edition is in line with last year’s edition, so we can say we are satisfied. The only downside is that we have been forced to give up the synergy with Lineapelle due to the exhibition space being occupied by sports facilities.”
Among the innovations presented at the trade fair last September by Huntsman is a new supercritical foam (SCF) technology that combines lightweight cushioning, comfort and durability for sports and lifestyle footwear, while supporting manufacturers’ automation goals. This is SMARTLITE® SCF 280 TPU, the latest product in a wider range of SCF midsole technologies that includes SMARTLITE® SCF 285 TPU, launched in 2024, which is expected to follow its success.
In the footwear industry, supercritical foam is becoming increasingly popular. Key players in the value chain are investing heavily in this technology as an alternative to ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) due to its ability to offer lightweight, responsive cushioning with consistent performance. At the same time, SCF systems, which can be used in combination with direct injection processes, can contribute to sustainability through more efficient production, reduced waste and recyclability potential.
Huntsman’s new SMARTLITE® SCF 280 technology is softer than SMARTLITE® SCF 285. Developed for use as a midsole in lifestyle/casual trainers and running shoes, the material can help to: reduce the overall weight of the shoe without sacrificing support (density = 0.17 to 0.22); support automation because the consistency of the material allows for reliable and economical production; provide responsive cushioning with up to 64% rebound to support athletic performance. SMARTLITE® SCF 280 can also improve durability and hydrolysis resistance, offering miles of everyday comfort, and offers circularity benefits because the material can be mechanically recycled and reused.
Huntsman’s SMARTLITE® SCF technologies for the midsole are optimised for co-moulding with AVALON® GECKO TPU, a sole technology launched in 2024 that offers slip resistance comparable to rubber on both wet and dry surfaces.
BASF’s Performance Materials division continues to drive the transformation of the plastics industry by combining sustainability and competitive advantage. The new Elastollan® RC TPU, with up to 100% recycled content, can be used as a raw material for new footwear parts. In parallel with this concept, BASF is developing further strategies for circularity: using depolymerisation, both post-industrial and post-consumer footwear waste can be incorporated into new polyurethane soles. Alternatively, ChemCycling® enables up to 100% attributed recycled raw materials to be obtained using end-of-life tyres or mixed plastic waste.
Among the new products for the summer season is the new Elastopan®SpringPURe, a lightweight yet durable PU. These products have low density without sacrificing the durability and performance of polyurethane. Whether you are looking for the elastic flexibility of polyether-based materials or the ease of processing of polyester-based options (perfect for high-end safety footwear), SpringPURe has it all. BAFS supports all the latest production methods, from classic casting to direct injection. The collaboration with Stemma S.R.L. combines the advances of SpringPURe materials with Stemma’s NUCLEOOS technology, a hybrid technology for chemical-physical foaming, to create lighter midsoles with exceptional style and performance, integrating seamlessly into existing polyurethane moulding processes.
Furthermore, thanks to its collaboration with Desma Schuhmaschinen GmbH, BASF has developed a new level of automated footwear creation that improves flexibility, design, comfort and lightness, introducing concepts such as direct soling with lightweight Elastopan®SpringPURe midsoles combined with sturdy Elastollan® TPU film outsoles. During the trade fair, the possibilities offered by fully automated PU processing combined with the dynamic elasticity of Infinergy® were also demonstrated, resulting in exceptional midsoles produced in a single step. The classic ‘Detonate’ preformed sole concept allows the use of expanded TPU to achieve adaptable densities and superior performance. At the same time, Desma’s innovative SCF machine simplifies production to create ultra-lightweight Infinergy® midsoles with exceptional elasticity and energy return.
Dermacolor presents its third calendar: Sculpted Icons, a project that once again celebrates boundless creativity, which has always been at the heart of the company’s claim “Unleash Your Creativity.”
A tribute to sculptures from all worlds and styles
The 2026 edition pays homage to 12 iconic sculptures, reinterpreted as digital art illustrations dedicated to universal and meaningful symbols. Among the works celebrated are Michelangelo’s David, the Riace Bronzes, the Egyptian Sphinx, the Fang Bane statues of Cameroon, Koons’ sculptures, and modern masterpieces such as Mirò and Boccioni, as well as other figures who have marked the history of art.
Each month becomes a tribute to art forms from different eras and cultures, reminding us that inspiration can come from anywhere: history, matter, imagination.
The “little cow”: symbol and protagonist
Dermacolor’s famous graphic icon becomes the face of the sculptures: it enters the works, takes on their expressions, and integrates completely into the artistic forms. This creative gesture transforms a corporate symbol into an artistic element, demonstrating that any material—like leather—can be shaped, reinvented, and sculpted according to the creator’s vision.
Unlimited creativity
Just as an artist shapes matter, Dermacolor allows tanneries to overcome technical limitations, explore new effects, and create unique products. The calendar thus becomes a visual manifesto of the company’s philosophy: it is not matter that sets boundaries, but imagination.
Temporary exhibition at the Dermacolor headquarters
Once again this year, the original images from the 2026 calendar are on display at the Dermacolor headquarters in Castelfranco di Sotto (PI), in the Italian tanning center of excellence, in a temporary exhibition set up in the company’s modern meeting room.
With a surface area of 1,800 square meters, Dermacolor serves the tanning industry on a daily basis, with analysis, research, and development laboratories for wet-end and finishing, and the entire production department, confirming its role as a leading Italian manufacturer active in the world of chemical solutions for leather.
Technological innovation, traceability and advanced data management are becoming the pillars of responsible transformation in the leather and footwear sector. During the September 2025 edition of Simac Tanning Tech, Francesca Rulli, Co-Founder of Ympact, brought together associations, brands and schools to discuss how these elements can accompany the construction of a more transparent, efficient and future-proof fashion system. Not only to respond to regulatory developments, but also to generate operational and competitive advantages.
Cristiano Paccagnella, Vice-President of Assomac, opened the debate by emphasising the central role of machinery in generating reliable data, which is essential for monitoring impacts and improving the efficiency of production processes. Francesca Rulli then outlined the main drivers behind the transformation of the sector: supply chain transparency, traceability systems geared towards future digital product passports, decarbonisation programmes and chemical management.
Among the guests, Marta Simonetti, Regional Manager Europe at ZDHC, presented the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals programme and explained that the aim of this programme is to move from a competitive advantage to a collaborative impact. Simonetti explained the importance of creating a network of stakeholders in the fashion supply chain to promote the implementation of the ZDHC programme.
This perspective was further reinforced by Daniele Massetti, Regional Lead Italy at the Apparel Impact Institute (AII), who presented the results of the Clean by Design pilot — AII’s engineering methodology for the decarbonisation of production processes — applied to 11 Italian tanneries. The project highlights potential reductions of 19% in energy consumption, 7% in water consumption and 23% in CO₂ emissions, with an average saving of €102,000 per year. This is a strong signal that technology and industrial efficiency can go hand in hand.
From a brand perspective, Mickael Maniez, Head of Sustainable Supply Chain at Kering, shared his direct experience in implementing the ZDHC and AII Carbon Target Setting programmes with his suppliers, emphasising the value of the Clean by Design pilot. The result is sustainability that translates into operational efficiency: many interventions generate rapid ROI — sometimes in less than a year — and innovation in machinery is a decisive factor in reducing energy and water consumption throughout the supply chain.
To conclude, Matteo Pasca, Director of Arsutoria School, highlighted the role of training and eco-design: waste reduction, durability, repairability and the use of digital twins are key levers to accompany the cultural transformation of the sector.
Diadora’s concrete commitment to research and innovation, combined with its commitment to sustainability and inclusion, has been recognized and certified by the award received by Claudio Bora, CEO of the group, during the CEOforLIFE Awards held in Rome on December 4.
The prestigious award, which recognizes companies that stand out for their concrete projects in sustainable development and innovation, was given for Diadora Utility’s Athena project: the first line of safety footwear designed exclusively for women. The study of female physiological and biomechanical specificities has given rise to shoes that provide maximum protection, comfort, and well-being in all working conditions.
This award confirms, once again, Diadora Utility’s pioneering role in the world of safety, through inclusive and cutting-edge solutions that meet the needs of every worker.
Claudio Bora, CEO of Diadora, with Romina Zanchetta, Marketing & Communication Director Utility
When thinking about the world of injection moulding, it is difficult to associate it with that of design. Mechanics, design, flows and sections; a complex subject, perhaps even a little difficult: it is hard to see the connection with the creativity that characterises a good designer. For the Zago Injection Moulds team, however, nothing could be further from the truth, because, as Marina Zago points out, ‘To make a good shoe, you need good foundations’. It is to support this principle that in 2021 Zago Injection Moulds came up with the idea of creating a series of animated videos for its website (www.zagomolds.com) that clearly and simply describe the injection moulding process for footwear. And it did so for each of the types of moulds that the company produces. Created in 3D graphics in an extremely accurate and incredibly illustrative way, Zago’s videos are able to show and make anyone immediately understand what an injection mould is and what the differences and characteristics of the different types are.
These videos have also recently been used by teachers at the Arsutoria school during training courses for company professionals. ‘The work done by Zago to explain the injection process for the production of soles in a simple but technically accurate way is undoubtedly a valuable resource for all those in the industry who want to better understand what goes on behind the scenes,’ said Matteo Pasca, director of the school. An unexpected opportunity that surprised the company itself: ‘We never imagined that developing these renderings would have such a wide resonance, but we are pleased to know it. At Zago, we have always looked to the future, and today the future of the footwear world is in the hands of the new generations of designers, technicians and craftsmen who, with their passion and dedication, choose to devote themselves to this profession,’ commented Marina Zago.
But who is Zago? Founded in 1958 in S. Angelo di Piove di Sacco, in the Padua area, Zago specialises in the design and construction of moulds for polyurethane and rubber injection. In the industry, Zago is synonymous with excellence, reliability and attention to detail, traits that make it a valued partner across the entire spectrum of production, from the most classic single and two-colour designs to the most complex, ambitious and pioneering multi-density designs using the latest generation of materials.
