Safety Magazine

GRISPORT presents the LTX line: for those who never stop

Grisport recently unveiled three new safety footwear models. These three items offer “workplace safety” and “leisure comfort.” They are the Maestrale, Scirocco, and Tramontana, which are part of the LTX (Light Tech Xtreme) line.
Their key feature is the Support System®, a flexible heel reinforcement system that “guides” the foot inside the shoe naturally, hands-free and effortlessly. “It helps improve stability while walking and protects the heel,” explain representatives from the Italian shoe factory in Castelcucco (Treviso).
The toe cap is made of PS143 composite, a modified technopolymer composite: lightweight, durable, and non-conductive to cold. It is certified to withstand impacts of up to 200J. The insole is flexible and certified puncture-resistant (EN ISO 20345:2022+A1:2024). “This feature makes the shoe as flexible as a sports shoe and as safe as work footwear.”

The LTX construction features a three-density outsole:
• The outsole is bonded to the upper via injected PU, which connects the upper to the outsole with millimeter-level precision and prevents any unwanted movement under the foot;
• New midsole with Nucleoos® technology. The ultra-lightweight PU is gas-injected, ensuring a reduced weight. The material provides consistent cushioning and returns to its original shape without compression;
• TPU outsole tread that is hydrocarbon-resistant and SR-certified slip-resistant.

Finally, there are three types of uppers:
• Leather: high abrasion resistance, breathable, conforms to the foot, 1.6–1.8 mm thick, natural material;
• Microfiber: 40% lighter than conventional materials, water-repellent, consistent quality, requires minimal maintenance, abrasion-resistant;
• Mesh: maximum breathability, “3D” honeycomb structure, ultra-lightweight material, anatomical fit, stress-resistant, and thermoregulatory.

Maestrale

SPARCO expands the TRACTION Line

The TRACTION line from Sparco Teamwork is the perfect embodiment of “value for money,” offering truly excellent value.
TRACTION is a line of sporty-style safety footwear, featuring a semi-seamless upper for maximum flexibility and an ultralight outsole made of EVA-rubber: the EVA midsole ensures lightness and cushioning, while the nitrile rubber outsole provides maximum grip, resistance to oils and hydrocarbons (FO), and resistance to contact heat up to 300° (HRO).
Today, the TRACTION line is expanded with a new S1PS model crafted from premium perforated suede in an exclusive navy blue–neon green colorway.
This new variant, which boasts even greater breathability and flexibility thanks to the quality of the genuine leather, joins the line’s other highly successful models made from reflective, abrasion-resistant fabric (in the S1PS versions) or tumbled nubuck (in the S3S versions).
This line is now truly complete and diverse, designed to meet the tastes and needs of all users, while delivering the signature sporty and distinctive look of Sparco Teamwork footwear, along with flexibility, lightness, safety, and performance.

Here are the technical details:

UPPER: soft perforated suede leather, with reinforcements in textured microfiber.
LINING: breathable, micro-perforated 3D fabric.
REMOVABLE INSOLE: antistatic, low-density polyurethane with ergonomic thermoforming.
PUNCTURE-RESISTANT INSOLE: ultra-lightweight, zero-perforation textile fiber (PS – 3.0 mm diameter nail).
TOE CAP: non-magnetic fiberglass, insulating, 200J impact-resistant.
ANTI-STATIC, NON-SLIP SOLE: super-comfortable EVA midsole with high energy absorption. FO+HRO nitrile rubber outsole.
SIZES: 36–48 (UK 3½–13).

The new S1PS model in perforated suede

From sports to safety: Diadora Utility’s supercritical revolution

The safety footwear sector is undergoing a period of profound evolution, in which safety, comfort, and performance are no longer separate requirements but are becoming increasingly closely integrated elements. In this context, the introduction of supercritical technology in midsoles marks a significant leap forward: an innovation born and developed in the world of sports that now finds a new application in footwear designed for professionals.
Among the first brands to bring this technology to the safety sector is Diadora Utility, drawing on the experience its parent company has gained in the world of running. This technology transfer was no accident: the needs of an athlete and those of a worker actually share several commonalities, especially when it comes to lightness, cushioning, responsiveness, and fatigue reduction.
“We’ve brought our best technology—developed for high-end running and tested by professional athletes—to the safety footwear sector,” explains the company based in Caerano di San Marco, in the province of Treviso. This journey has made it possible to bring into the workplace skills, materials, and solutions that were initially designed to enhance athletic performance.
Supercritical technology allows us to modify the structure of the midsole, resulting in a material characterized by a unique combination of lightness, elasticity, and responsiveness. The result is a shoe that, while retaining all the elements necessary to ensure the protection required by regulations, aims to offer a feel that is increasingly similar to that of a sports shoe.
GLOVE HYPERFORM was officially unveiled at the A+A trade show and has been available to all customers and users since January 2026.

Michele Risatti, Diadora’s R&D & Quality Director

We discuss this in depth with Michele Risatti, Diadora’s R&D & Quality Director, who has been with the company since 2005 and is therefore very familiar with the various technological advancements that have taken place over the past two decades.

HYPERFORM originated in the world of running. What convinced you that this technology could also make a difference in safety footwear?

The answer is quite simple: at Diadora, we’ve always had a clear understanding of the end user’s needs, whether they’re an athlete or a worker. In running, we’ve been receiving a very specific request for years: shoes that are increasingly lightweight, capable of providing protection, cushioning, and responsiveness to reduce fatigue during athletic activity. We find the same needs today in the world of safety footwear.
People who wear safety shoes are often accustomed to wearing sneakers or running shoes outside of work and therefore seek comfort, lightness, flexibility, and responsiveness in the workplace as well. While a runner’s goal is to improve performance by reducing effort, for a worker it means getting through the day with less muscle and joint fatigue, while maintaining high performance throughout the day. From this perspective, there is a strong correlation between the needs of runners and those of professionals who wear safety footwear.

Did integrating supercritical technology pose any challenges in meeting the required certifications for safety footwear?

Rather than challenges, it required significant refinement. Diadora Utility now has extensive experience in designing safety footwear capable of easily passing all the tests required by regulations. The goal was to find the right balance between performance and protection, integrating the new technology without compromising safety standards.
The advantage is that the supercritical technology is applied to the midsole—that is, the part between the upper and the outsole—a well-defined area of the shoe. The elements that have the greatest impact on impact, compression, and puncture tests—such as the toe cap and puncture-resistant plate—retain their structural function, while the midsole can be optimized to offer greater comfort and performance.

How much did the experience gained with EVA influence the development of this new solution?

A great deal. As early as 2005, we were among the first to introduce EVA into the world of work footwear. That experience allowed us to gain an in-depth understanding of the midsole’s behavior and to figure out how to optimize it—especially in the heel area—and then extend that development to the forefoot.
With the supercritical technology, we’re taking another step forward, while also maintaining the characteristics of the HRO rubber outsole, which guarantees resistance to abrasion and slipping.

Why did you choose to introduce HYPERFORM specifically on the Glove model?

Glove is an icon for Diadora Utility, both within the company and in the safety market. In 2005, it marked a turning point in the safety footwear sector, and even today, it remains one of the most recognizable and enduring models in our collection. It is the product that, more than any other, has continuously evolved over the years without losing its identity. We chose to start with the Glove because we knew its structure, material distribution, and performance in the field inside and out. This allowed us to integrate innovative technology into an already established platform, further enhancing its comfort and performance. In the future, the goal is to extend supercritical technology to other models in the lineup, but it was only natural to start with our flagship model.

Where did supercritical technology originate, and how did it make its way into the world of safety footwear?

We had a significant advantage: Diadora Utility is part of the Diadora family, a company that has always invested in sports and innovation. This allowed us to work on a technology—specifically, supercritical foaming (SCF)—that we had already developed extensively in running shoes following the COVID-19 pandemic. After studying various compounds and their properties, we began incorporating this technology into Diadora running shoes in 2024, starting with models such as the Gara Carbon, Frequenza, and Corsa. The experience we’ve gained in the world of sports has given us the expertise needed to apply it to the field of safety with GLOVE HYPERFORM.

What, in simple terms, is supercritical expansion?

To understand the difference, we need to start with the traditional method. For nearly fifty years, midsole materials have been produced from EVA through a chemical expansion process: the material was placed in a mold along with additives and blowing agents which, through heat and pressure, triggered a chemical reaction capable of creating the characteristic microcells within the material. That system works very well, but it has a specific limitation: beyond a certain reduction in density, the material loses strength and durability because the bubbles become too large and the structure tends to collapse.
Supercritical expansion takes a completely different approach: the expansion is no longer chemical, but physical.

How does the process actually work?

It starts with a small, rigid midsole made of thermoplastic material. This is placed in an autoclave, where it is subjected to pressures and temperatures that soften the material without melting it. Nitrogen is introduced into the autoclave under so-called “supercritical” conditions. In this state, the nitrogen penetrates the material extremely uniformly. When the pressure is released, the nitrogen microbubbles expand, carrying the material with them. The result is a homogeneous structure, with cells that are all very similar to one another, achieved without any chemical reaction.

What is the advantage over traditional technology?

The main advantage is that we can drastically reduce density without compromising the material’s durability. In running shoes today, we’re even working with densities below 0.10 g/cm³. For safety shoes, we’ve identified an optimal balance at around 0.14 g/cm³—a density that ensures both lightness and long-term durability.
To put this in perspective:
Traditional EVA: approximately 0.20–0.30 g/cm³;
Expanded polyurethane: between 0.35 and 0.45 g/cm³;
Diadora Utility Supercritical: approximately 0.14 g/cm³.
This means achieving nearly half the density of traditional EVA and about one-third that of polyurethane.

How did you determine the right density for the safety sector?

We didn’t limit ourselves to lab tests. We conducted numerous field tests, involving colleagues from logistics and general services who used the prototypes under real-world working conditions. The value of 0.14 g/cm³ is the result of this balance: light enough to offer a significant improvement over traditional materials, yet durable enough to ensure the cushioning, responsiveness, and durability required of a safety shoe.

Between lightness, cushioning, and responsiveness, which feature makes the biggest impression on those trying the GLOVE HYPERFORM for the first time?

Weight reduction is one of the most important aspects of next-generation safety footwear, especially since today they are worn for up to 10–12 hours a day—not just during work. A reduction of 50–100 grams can help reduce fatigue.
GLOVE HYPERFORM’s supercritical material also offers a significant advantage in terms of cushioning and energy return: it absorbs more impact at the heel, reducing stress on the musculoskeletal system, and returns more energy during the push-off phase.
Another benefit is the facilitation of the roll, that is, the transition from heel to forefoot. A lighter, more flexible, and more responsive shoe makes the stride more natural and fluid, helping to further reduce muscle load. The goal is to scientifically measure these benefits through specific tests on so-called “walking economy,” a field still under study.

Has the introduction of supercritical technology also revolutionized the production process?

Only partially. The final molding stage remains essentially the same: the preform is still placed in the final mold, where the shape, contours, and characteristics of the midsole are defined.
The real innovation lies in the initial phase—that is, the creation of the preform and its passage through the autoclave. For this process, we collaborate with specialized partners who have highly advanced facilities, which are now increasingly common in the running industry.
These are modern machines, often powered by photovoltaic systems, which represent a significant advancement in terms of production efficiency as well.

What developments do you expect from supercritical technology in the coming years?

Supercritical technology is relatively new in the footwear industry: although the process of supercritical expansion of polymers has long existed in sectors such as aerospace and rail transport, its use in footwear has only become established in recent years. Today, our goal is to maximize its potential by focusing on material development, density optimization, and integration with other proprietary technologies. The direction is clear: to develop shoes that are increasingly lighter, more flexible, and more comfortable, while maintaining high performance. It is a constantly evolving journey that paves the way for increasingly innovative solutions for the future of footwear.

The production process does not use chemical blowing agents, making this technology truly sustainable. How important is it today to develop materials that simultaneously improve performance and reduce environmental impact?

GLOVE HYPERFORM is made with supercritical material that, on the one hand, reduces the use of chemicals in the expansion phase—such as accelerators and additives—and, on the other hand, allows for a reduction in the amount of material used for the midsole while maintaining the same volume. This means lower consumption of virgin raw materials and, consequently, a reduced impact in terms of the resources used to produce them. This is another step in a process already underway, which includes the use of recycled components and the search for increasingly sustainable solutions. The real challenge for the future, however, will be closing the shoe’s life cycle: without an effective end-of-life collection and recovery system, even products designed to be recyclable cannot reach their full potential. There is still a long way to go.

Diadora Utility – GLOVE HYPERFORM Low – S1PS FO SR HRO ESD 
Diadora Utility – GLOVE HYPERFORM Mid- S3S FO SR HRO ESD
Diadora Utility – GLOVE HYPERFORM Low – S1PS FO SR HRO ESD 


Trends Autumn/Winter ’27-28

Sacred Flaws
Stillness
Neo Uniforms
Personal Noise

Sacred Flaws

Imperfection becomes the signature of a life lived. Patinated leather, faded gilding, crushed velvets and oxidised metals are valued for the stories they tell. Visible repairs and stitching turn damage into strength, while asymmetry, raw edges and exposed construction show the making process.

Stillness

A return to the 1990s, when minimalism became icon status, with each era-defining song standing for a different look: sheer minimalism, silk slip dresses, urban casualwear, grunge and black leather, quiet luxury, and Britpop-era soft leather and long coats. The common thread is elegance without noise.

Neo Uniforms

The line between field and street, equipment and ornament, uniform and eveningwear dissolves. Performance mesh, lug soles, climbing rope handles and carabiner jewellery are fully integrated into the design rather than merely referenced. Luxury is redefined as comfort, performance and innovation, with credible, craft-driven objects that feel new yet entirely possible.

Personal Noise

Identity is built by mixing, with no hierarchy and no permission needed. Masks and hoods covered in crystals, iridescent and mother-of-pearl finishes, acid pastels, clashing colour blocks, playful objects and excessive decoration all play a part. Proportions are exaggerated, symmetry is deliberately broken and gender is fluid. It is not disorder, but a personal grammar that draws freely from the past, the East, the street and the digital world.

UNPAC joins COTANCE

On September 16, Unpac, the national association representing the leading chemical manufacturers of leather auxiliaries, formally joined Cotance as a stakeholder with the aim of strengthening collaboration throughout the supply chain.

Cotance is the European federation that brings together tanning industry associations across Europe; among them is the Italian association Unic, with which Unpac already collaborates on national and international regulatory committees.
“Unpac’s entry into Cotance represents an important step toward fostering ever-closer collaboration between the chemical and tanning industries, with the shared goal of jointly addressing the regulatory, technological, and sustainability challenges facing the sector,” explains Pierluigi Braggion, president of Unpac.

Pierluigi Braggion, President of UNPAC, and Edoardo De Paola, Director of COTANCE

Robbiki Leather City: the Egyptian mission concludes in Turbigo

The Italian mission of the official Egyptian delegation from Robbiki Leather City, led by Dr. Ahmed Maghawry, Assistant to the Egyptian Minister of Industry for International Cooperation, concluded on September 18 in Turbigo. Following the visit and meetings at Simac Tanning Tech, the mission’s program on the final day featured the international conference “Leather and Its District: A Century of History,” dedicated to the history and evolution of the Turbigo tanning district.
The event, moderated by Ernesto Pisoni, took place in the presence of Turbigo Mayor Fabrizio Allevi, the head of the Egyptian delegation, and experts, institutional representatives, and key figures from the sector.
The mission is part of a broader framework of cooperation between Italy and Egypt that has accompanied the development of Robbiki Leather City. The Italian Agency for Development Cooperation (AICS, www.aics.gov.it/) has played a central role in this process; through the “Support to the Development of Robbiki Leather City” program, it has provided 6 million euros to support the consolidation of the tanning district. The initiative focused in particular on strengthening the Leather Tanning Technology Center (LTTC), training and the transfer of skills and technologies, technical assistance to tanners, and support for the management of Robbiki’s shared facilities.

It is precisely on this basis that Italian cooperation is guiding Robbiki toward a new phase: following support for the development of infrastructure, technical expertise, and institutional capacity, the direct link with the Italian industrial system now aims to foster new relationships between businesses, technology centers, and institutions in both countries. In this sense, the Study Tour in Italy represents a concrete step forward in the process initiated by AICS, bringing the Egyptian delegation into contact with Italian manufacturing hubs, technology companies, trade associations, and centers of expertise.
Speakers included local historian Giuseppe Leoni, Magazzini Generali CEO Francesco Bellone, and IULTCS Vice President Giancarlo Lovato, who highlighted the important work carried out by the International Union of Tanning Chemists in promoting scientific knowledge and preserving tanning culture.
Particularly comprehensive was the presentation by Prof. Christian Garavaglia, Professor of Industrial Economics at the University of Milan-Bicocca and a Lombardy Regional Councilor, who traced the industrial and economic evolution

The presentation by Prof. Christian Garavaglia, Professor of Industrial Economics at the University of Milan-Bicocca and a Lombardy Regional Council member, was particularly comprehensive; he traced the industrial, economic, and social evolution of manufacturing districts. In a context marked by growing international competition, he emphasized, every economic actor is called upon to contribute to value creation along the entire value chain. Institutions also play an important role: in this context, the Lombardy Region is committed to providing concrete support to the region’s economic supply chains.
Returning to the Robbiki Leather City initiative, it serves as a significant example of how Italian cooperation can translate into concrete support for the industrial development of an entire supply chain.The district arose from the need to relocate the dozens of artisanal tanneries concentrated in the Magra El Eyoun area—in the heart of the Egyptian capital—outside of Cairo.
Today, Robbiki is a modern and functional industrial park, equipped with infrastructure and services, that is home to approximately 190 small and medium-sized enterprises, including tanneries, mechanical engineering firms, and specialized suppliers. It is a production hub in continuous growth, set to welcome new businesses in the near future and consolidate its strategic role in the Egyptian leather supply chain.

The Robbiki project has strengthened ties between Egyptian industry and Italian leather-producing regions, promoting infrastructure, technological innovation, and environmental and labor management. The results achieved have paved the way for new projects focused on the marble and granite and furniture sectors as well. The goal now is to transition from public support to creating favorable conditions for private investment, technology transfer, and lasting economic partnerships. In this regard, Robbiki serves as a model of cooperation capable of attracting investment, creating jobs, and strengthening local supply chains.
As part of the collaboration, in addition to the technology trade show for the leather sector, the Egyptian delegation visited Italian companies, research centers, and tanning districts—including Vigevano and Turbigo—engaging with the entire supply chain and key suppliers of technology and machinery.
The day concluded with the signing of a Memorandum of Understanding, in the presence of the mayor, guests, and delegation representatives, to strengthen collaboration between Italy and Egypt and create new opportunities for the leather industry.
In the afternoon, the delegation visited the CAP Group (Consorzio Acqua Potabile), which manages the integrated water service and wastewater treatment, to receive clarification on important environmental and water management issues.
After an intensive program of meetings, technical visits, training sessions, and discussions with Italian companies and associations, the mission concludes with tangible results: new relationships, shared expertise, and partnerships that lay the groundwork for the future development of collaboration between Italy and Egypt in the leather industry.

The signing of the Memorandum of Understanding, in the presence of the mayor, to strengthen cooperation between Italy and Egypt
In the center is Assomac Director Agostino Apolito, with his predecessor Roberto Vago, who worked tirelessly to bring the Robbiki industrial park to fruition
Group photo of the Egyptian delegation and the Italian guests

GSC GROUP, positivity is an act of courage

What happens when a company, in a trade show space dedicated to products, meetings, and business, decides not to exhibit anything? The result is Positivity Cabin – 30 Seconds of Positivity, a project conceived by artist and performer Andrea Bianconi and realized in partnership with GSC Group.
The installation, created for Simac Tanning Tech 2026 (Hall 18, C36), invites visitors to take a thirty-second break, transforming a simple gesture into an immersive experience dedicated to reflection and positivity. At the end of the experience, each participant receives a gold pin bearing the word “YESSS,” a symbol of an attitude to carry with them even beyond the trade show. “Positivity is an act of courage,” comments artist Andrea Bianconi.
The project also represents a countercultural approach to communication: GSC Group steps back from its traditional leading role to make room for the public’s experience, demonstrating that, at times, the strongest message arises precisely from subtraction. “For once, we decided to take away, rather than add,” explains Adriano Serafini, president of GSC Group.
With the Positivity Cabin, art and business come together to pose a question as simple as it is timely: how much time are we still able to devote to saying “yes”?

Circular synergy: the 54th AICC National Conference focuses on the sustainable future of the tanning industry

Regulations, chemical innovation, industrial processes, and research come together in a single day of discussion to shape the future of the Italian tanning industry. On Friday, October 9,
2026, the Hotel Lloyd’s Baia in Vietri sul Mare (Salerno) will host the 54th AICC National Conference, titled “Circular Synergy: Regulations, Chemistry, and Industrial Processes—An Alliance of Expertise for Sustainable Competitiveness.”
The event, organized by the Italian Association of Leather Chemists (AICC), is designed as an opportunity for in-depth discussion focused on the challenges that are reshaping the sector: from growing European regulatory pressure to the need to make environmental performance measurable, to new technologies capable of combining quality, innovation, and circularity.
After participant registration and the official opening, featuring remarks from the AICC president and local officials, the program will get underway with a presentation by Luca Marucci of the Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies in Pisa, who will address a highly topical issue: sustainability communication and the risks associated with greenwashing.
The credibility of ESG strategies will also be the focus of the presentation by Serena Portella, Sustainability Manager at Muno, which will address the importance of materiality, impact assessment, and data quality as tools for building truly verifiable sustainability.
Ample attention will be given to innovation applied to production processes. Marco Cazzola of GSC Group will present a study on the environmental and performance impact of crosslinking agents used in finishes for the automotive sector, while Dario Monolo of Icap Leather Chem will illustrate the role of tools such as ZDHC and Life Cycle Assessment in concretely measuring the value of sustainable innovation.In the second part of the conference, the focus will shift to concrete applications of the circular economy. Alberto Colella of Russo di Casandrino will present a project dedicated to recovering collagen from tanning waste for new production applications, while Daniela Caracciolo of Vignola Nobile will present the European H2OxyTan project, based on biodegradable metal complexes and an innovative wastewater treatment system using hydrogen peroxide and UV rays.
The automotive sector will take center stage again with a presentation by Luca Frighetto from Pasubio, who will present research on the reduction and monitoring of aldehydes through analytical approaches that offer alternatives to today’s most widely used standards.

Scientific research will offer further insights thanks to Claudia Florio of Italian Leather Research Institute (SSIP), which will present the Smart Leather Quality project, dedicated to the use of spectroscopy and intelligent vision systems to improve quality control and the sustainability of tanning processes.
Luca Pucci of Gori will conclude the series of presentations with an overview of the strategies and innovations developed in anticipation of the new European Directive on Urban Wastewater, a topic set to have significant implications for both municipal and industrial wastewater treatment.
The conference will conclude with closing remarks, followed by a dinner hosted by the sponsors at the Hotel Lloyd’s Baia—an informal occasion designed to foster dialogue among companies, researchers, and professionals in the industry.

Registration is required to attend via the official website  www.aicc.it

The factory on show: at MICAM and MIPEL, shoes and bags are made in front of visitors

From 13 to 15 September 2026, in Hall 5 at Fiera Milano Rho. At the centre of the hall is M&M – The Hub, the space shared by MICAM and MIPEL, dedicated to training, innovation, trends and the new generation of brands. Inside it, M&M – The Factory & The Academy Hub returns: a live workshop where, over three days, three products are built in front of the fair visitors, with experienced technicians operating the machines and state-of-the-art technologies.

A space dedicated to the making stages of a leather goods item and a footwear product, giving buyers and visitors a concrete view of the skills, the technologies and the manufacturing processes behind Made in Italy.

The leather luggage tag starts from a piece of vegetable-tanned leather, cut with a precision cutting die: the two halves are stitched together on an automatic sewing machine, then finished with a ribbon screen-printed with the MICAM Milano and MIPEL logos and closed with an embroidered detail. Five hundred pieces will be made, gifted to visitors and personalised with their initials across the three days of the fair.

The Made in Italy sneaker is built using a distinctive “sneaker flex” construction, with an upper in reversed calf leather — the material traditionally used for unlined moccasins — and the logo embossed on the tongue using high-frequency welding.

The canvas and leather bag, inspired by the models traditionally used to carry wine bottles, is made to carry the sneaker home: a body in firm cotton-based canvas that holds the shape, base and shoulder strap in vegetable-tanned leather, a base that is stitched and turned, and a strap that adjusts in length through a metal pin system.


Behind the project are almost 30 material and technology companies, with Assomac and Simac Tanning Tech as partners. Also at work are machines with automatic vision systems and artificial intelligence, able to recognise materials and programme their own processing paths.

Project coordination and the educational direction are entrusted to Arsutoria, which runs the training side with a programme of workshops and seminars for schools and students.

For more information, click here.

The trade fair sector is looking beyond the horizon: there is a new purchasing process in the fashion industry

On 8 September 2026, a press conference organised by Fashion Link Milano took place at the ADI Design Museum in Milan, bringing together MICAM Milano, MIPEL, Simac Tanning Tech, Milano Fashion&Jewels and TheOneMilano, alongside professionals from the supply chain, to analyse how purchasing processes are changing and, consequently, the role of trade fairs. Leading the discussion was Orietta Pelizzari, Global Trend Researcher, creative concept developer and moderator, alongside Chiara Allegra Moretti, an independent buyer, and Federico Galli, a storyteller.

 

One of the key topics of the meeting was the role and profile of the buyer, THE BUYER JOURNEY, in the fashion sector. Nowadays, buyers arrive at a trade fair having already carried out a significant part of their work: continuous research, comparisons, shortlisting and drawing up an initial list of contacts and products. The visit is no longer merely a moment of discovery, but one of the stages in the entire decision-making and purchasing process, which has become more extensive, beginning before the event and continuing through ongoing relationships with companies, brands, suppliers and partners. As Giovanna Ceolini, President of Micam, also stated: “Nowadays, one must bear in mind that to attend a trade fair, one needs to be prepared and organised, know what one is looking for, where and how to find it, and leave room whilst there to seek out new business opportunities”.

Preparation, after all, is not a theoretical aspiration but a response to a practical constraint: the time spent at the fair has been reduced, often to just one and a half days, and the risk is that the visit will be limited to visiting suppliers already on one’s list. Matchmaking tools serve to broaden the scope and bring together supply and demand that would otherwise never meet, but they only work if companies genuinely feed them with data, new product launches, samples, colour palettes and the reasoning behind each proposal.

In this scenario, doing business is not just about brands, buyers and trade fair organisers. It also encompasses those who decide on the processes and technologies to be used: those who select the materials, the production methods and the quality standards embodied in a product. It is the link that connects the commercial sphere with the industrial one, and which explains why the buyer’s physical presence in Italy retains a specific value: private labels, adaptations and products tailor-made for a specific retail outlet arise from direct contact with the manufacturer, not from a catalogue.

This evolution involves a trade fair system which, through the Fashion Link Milano events, brings together a total of 1,848 brands.

A system that largely represents mid-range products, lacking the marketing clout of major brands, and which therefore requires a point of contact — first the buyer, then the consumer — capable of recognising the value of what they are purchasing. The buyer, therefore, is no longer merely a selector, but a true curator.

 

THE GEOPOLITICS OF AESTHETIC OPINION AND TASTE

Orietta Pelizzari opened the discussion with the concept of the ‘geopolitics of opinion’: taste is no longer determined by a single generation or a single player, but arises from the interaction between consumers from four different generations, as well as buyers, brands and communities. According to NIQ/World Data Lab (2025), Generation X is now responsible for 15,200 billion dollars of global spending, 40 per cent more than Generation Z. Consumers are increasingly defined by their values and generations influence one another, thus going beyond the simple concept of chronological age. For brands and retailers, this means moving beyond rigid segmentation and developing strategies capable of reaching multiple generations simultaneously.

However, there is more to this figure than just spending power. The driving forces behind purchasing for this generation are twofold: memory and value – people buy what they have experienced and what they recognise as being of high quality. This dynamic is also passed on to subsequent generations, who embrace the same codes out of a sense of belonging rather than direct memory. Furthermore, the dynamics vary from market to market: in the United States, Gen X accounts for spending of around 97 billion dollars; in South Korea, it blends with the next generation to form a hybrid profile; whilst in China, it is growing for its own specific reasons.

For the fashion industry, this means a shift in how the market is interpreted: competition is moving away from conquering a market towards the ability tobecome a relevant voice in the conversation that shapes its tastes.

The insights presented by Pelizzari form part of the research journey already underway with Curator Buyer, revealing abuyer who is increasingly akin to a curator and an entrepreneur. This professional is therefore called upon to interpret trends, consumers, markets, profit margins and the identity of the retail outlet, and to transform a growing volume of information into targeted choices.

 

A MORE WELL-INFORMED BUYER, A RETAIL SECTOR WITH A STRONGER IDENTITY

Product research is now a continuous process, in which trade fairs, showrooms and direct relationships coexist with digital platforms, social media and sales data. The greater availability of information makes the buyer’s ability to filter, interpret and verify even more important.

This gives rise to a dual professional profile: qualitative skills – that is, knowing how to recognise a good product and a good image – and quantitative skills – that is, analysing budgets, profit margins, sales performance and market trends. This is a combination that Italian training programmes have been slow to recognise: standard reference texts have long been of Anglo-Saxon origin, based on a retail model very different from the Italian one, which consists mainly of independent multi-brand boutiques.

Consequently, the criteria used to judge whether a brand is worth buying are also changing. What counts is credibility and consistency between aesthetics, price point, positioning and the actual quality of the product. Other factors that matter have nothing to do with style: the reliability of the commercial structure and adherence to delivery schedules — a problem that affects even highly successful brands, precisely because they have grown so quickly — the ability to manage swaps, restocking and product exchanges, and attention to distribution, which is particularly crucial for high-end retail.

This process of research by consumers and buyers is, and must be, facilitated by brands’ commercial communication, as Federico Galli noted in one of his talks: “For brands and companies, there is an ever-increasing need to communicate not so much the product itself, but the processes, the people, and everything that goes on behind the scenes in the creation of products and which defines the brand’s identity.”

The obstacle here is not technical but cultural. Many businesses hesitate to tell their story, caught between a sense of modesty that mistakes discretion for style and the belief that their expertise needs no explanation. This is a missed opportunity, because the true influencers in the sector are the artisans and the companies: they do not need to invent anything; they simply need to show what they do every day. On the other hand, there is a consumer who has not stopped spending but has become more discerning and better informed, and who seeks concrete factors to guide their purchasing decisions. Attributing the difficulties solely to fast fashion or foreign competition means postponing a proper examination of the supply chain’s internal problems.

The retail outlet is also taking on a more active role. Private labels, ranges tailored to specific audiences and products developed for particular locations are transforming retail into an identity-building project. The question is no longer simply which product to buy, but which product is right for that shop, that customer and that market. Claudia Sequi, President of Assopellettieri, added: “In the evolving relationship between buyers and retailers, as well as within the trade fair offering, we are seeing collections being adapted to cover as many product categories as possible, structured coherently to provide buyers with insights that help them build their own product range.”

In this process, the physical aspect of the trade fair retains its distinctive value: seeing and assessing the product, engaging directly with business owners and suppliers, and building relationships remain elements that are difficult to replace. Digital technology therefore does not take the place of the trade fair, but rather extends the experience both before and after the event.

THE INDUSTRIAL BUYER

Those involved in the technology that enables and streamlines the production chain have also highlighted a different type of buyer. Alongside the product buyer operates an industrial buyer, with their own evaluation criteria. They do not merely seek a solution to a production need: they assess the machine’s reliability and flexibility, sustainability and energy consumption, and, increasingly, its software capabilities – that is, the system’s ability to communicate with other machines and with different departments within the company. These are choices that affect the company’s competitiveness well beyond the current season and which, upstream, determine the quality of what will reach the shop counter.

 

FIVE PERSPECTIVES, A SINGLE BUYER JOURNEY

A comparison of the events revealed different yet complementary perspectives. MICAM Milano highlighted the footwear sector’s perspective and that of an increasingly well-informed buyer, supported by matchmaking tools and trend intelligence. Milano Fashion&Jewels focused on scouting and the creation of cross-category ranges spanning fashion, accessories and jewellery. MIPEL examined the relationship between leather goods, the product, distribution and the retail outlet. TheOneMilano highlighted the role of sourcing, production capacity and private labels. Simac Tanning Tech focused on the industrial dimension of decision-making, where technologies, processes and partners influence a company’s future competitiveness. Different paths that converge on a single need: to make the meeting between supply and demand more specialised and effective.

Theadvantage of consolidation, after all, does not concern buyers alone.

For buyers, it allows them to optimise their time and find, in a single event, the full range of categories they need to build their own offering; for exhibitors, it opens up opportunities for cross-selling and access to a wider audience of buyers than a single sector-specific event can guarantee. This is the logic of networking between events that are closely linked both commercially and culturally.

 

THE TRADE FAIR AS A PLATFORM FOR RELATIONSHIP-BUILDING

From this perspective, the trade fair is evolving from a meeting place into a platform for building relationships. Buyers expect to be able to prepare for their visit, focus their search, select the right contacts, organise meetings and continue the dialogue even after the event. The physical and digital dimensions complement one another: the former retains a specific value in product evaluation and relationship-building, whilst digital tools make the process more informed, selective and continuous.

 

For the footwear and handbag sectors, the first event is MICAM Milano and MIPEL from 13 to 15 September, followed by Lineapelle and Simac Tanning Tech from 15 to 17 September.