Over the past decades, Horst Wortmann, the company’s founder, and Jens Beining, Managing Partner and CEO of the Wortmann Group, together with Partners and Managing Directors Ulrich Klüber and Dr Giovanni Lacatena, have developed the Wortmann Group into one of the strongest fashion companies in Europe. With commitment and foresight, Tamaris has been built up into one of the strongest shoe brands.

The future management team at Wortmann KG consists exclusively of long-serving employees who began their career with the company. The family-run company is thus focusing on experience, reliability and the sustainable promotion of young talent.  

With Ulrich Klüber’s retirement in summer 2026, Matthias Rodemeier will become the new Partner and Managing Director of Wortmann KG and Chief Product Officer. In addition to the Tamaris collection, he will also be responsible for sales in the DACH region.

At the same time as Rodemeier, Michael Romberg, who is already Managing Director and Partner at Jana Shoes, will additionally take over as Chief Production Officer at Wortmann KG responsible for overseeing the sourcing and production of the Tamaris brand and will thus also perform a coordinating role within the Group.

In summer 2027, Dr Giovanni Lacatena will end his operational responsibilities at Wortmann KG as planned.

On 1 June 2027, Nico Gold will become Chief Sales Officer at Wortmann KG. In addition to his role at Wortmann Fashion Retail, he will be responsible for international sales and system partnerships. He will be supported in the expansion of international sales by Felix Schmalenberger, who has been a member of the management team for many years.

With the future management team under Wortmann Schuh-Holding KG’s Managing Partner Jens Beining and Dr Tobias Seng as CFO, Wortmann KG will thus be positioned for the further development of the Tamaris brand in the long term. The combination of experience, customer focus, innovative strength and international orientation ensures sustainable and successful corporate development.

“The generational change at Tamaris, which has been initiated at an early stage, ensures continuity, allowing the company to remain on course for future success. The future management represents the customary reliability, specialist retail orientation, willingness to innovate and the sustainable further development of the brand,” says Jens Beining.

The world-leading Tier 2 supplier of critical components to the apparel and footwear industries, announced today that it has completed its acquisition of OrthoLite, a global market leader in footwear materials and the number one brand in premium insoles. The acquisition marks a major milestone in the Company’s long-term growth plans and strengthens its existing footwear division through expansion into the attractive, high-growth premium insole segment.

“OrthoLite is one of the world’s most innovative manufacturers in footwear materials. With our combined capabilities, we’ll now be able to offer our customers more future-focused solutions for more of the shoe – without compromising on the trusted quality both companies stand for,” said David Paja, Group Chief Executive Officer.

Coats will also move from a three-division organisational structure, previously Apparel, Footwear and Performance Materials, toward a simplified two‑division structure focused on Apparel and Footwear. Existing Performance Materials businesses will be folded into the two new divisions.

The divisions will be led by Pasquale Abruzzese, Footwear CEO and Group Chief Operating Officer, and Adrian Elliott, Apparel CEO and Group Chief Commercial Officer. Glenn Barrett will continue to lead the OrthoLite business.

Thoughtfully engineered to meet the evolving needs of footwear brands and their manufacturing partners, the range offers high-performance, safety-focused, eco-conscious insole solutions optimised for performance sports, lifestyle footwear and workwear applications.

Drawing on Coats’ deep expertise and global manufacturing footprint, the portfolio brings together a wide selection of technically advanced insole solutions that can improve the sustainability credentials of footwear, while delivering exceptional comfort and performance.

Holger Hoffmann, Global Head of Cellulose and Channel Sales at Coats Footwear, said: “Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do, and our Insole Solutions portfolio is a direct reflection of that ethos. Our new insole range combines eco-conscious materials with cutting-edge performance, offering manufacturers smarter, safer, and more sustainable options.”

“Today’s consumers expect comfort, performance, and sustainability – all in one product,” added Holger Hoffmann. “Our new insole portfolio not only addresses these needs but also gives manufacturers a wide range of options tailored to their specific market segments. It reflects the strength of our innovation capabilities and our dedication to support a more responsible footwear industry”.

Insole Solutions products are made using bio-based and recycled materials that utilize a special process that reduces environmental impact.

From sports shoes to safety boots, Insole Solutions provide superior comfort, durability, and breathability. Engineered for high-performance applications, products are tailored for different construction methods including strobel-lasted, cement-lasted, and Goodyear welted footwear.

For safety footwear, the new range offers solutions designed with advanced safety features. such as Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) options – conductive, antistatic, and insulative Insole Solutions can help ensure compliance in demanding work environments while maintaining wearer comfort and protection.

OEKO-TEX® is intensifying its efforts to safeguard biodiversity. As part of this commitment, OEKO-TEX® is working with the environmental organisation Global Nature Fund on the project ‘Businesses for Biological Diversity’. Together, OEKO-TEX® and Global Nature Fund have analysed biodiversity aspects at the production level and developed specific criteria for the OEKO-TEX® STeP facility certification.

As part of the ‘Engaging German Companies for Biodiversiy – UBi’ project, Global Nature Fund, in cooperation with the Lake Constance Foundation, reviewed relevant standards and certifications in the textile and apparel industry to assess the extent to which they include effective requirements for the protection of biodiversity. The findings were discussed in expert forums with standard setters, textile companies and other specialists, leading to joint recommendations on how biodiversity can be better integrated in future.

With regard to OEKO-TEX® STeP, as part of its annual review, OEKO-TEX®, in collaboration with the Global Nature Fund, updated the requirements based on this knowledge. The revised standards came into force in September 2025.

Building on this strong foundation, the OEKO-TEX® STeP criteria have been expanded to place greater emphasis on biodiversity. The updated standard highlights sustainable raw material sourcing and the protection of natural habitats, while also addressing practices that contribute to biodiversity loss. From now on, OEKO-TEX® STeP certified production sites will be required to implement biodiversity management plans, set specific targets and provide regular reporting.

With the expansion of the OEKO-TEX® STeP criteria, OEKO-TEX® is committed to establishing biodiversity as an integral part ofsustainable production.

At Lineapelle last September, Rino Mastrotto presented the AW 2026-2027 Radura collection: an open space, a place for meeting and sharing. Radura was created as an immersive concept that brought together all the Group’s excellence in a single stand, in a sensory narrative combining aesthetics, innovation and tradition.

The protagonists were the leathers from the Group’s tanneries, alongside the fine fabrics of Oreste Marianie and a selection of items embellished by Morelab, which specialises in innovative leather and fabric processing, and leather goods accessories – ribbons and components – made by Mapel. A special area was dedicated to the world of furniture, with fine leathers by Rino Mastrotto and fabrics by JacqArt, the new company created last July from the meeting between the historic expertise of the Marzotto Group and that of Rino Mastrotto.

‘We are proud to present our new “Radura” collection at Lineapelle,’ said Matteo Mastrotto, CEO of Rino Mastrotto, ‘which brings together all the excellence that distinguishes our Group.’

‘From HEARTH, the leather that saves 38 litres of water per square metre of leather and reduces the use of chemicals and CO2 emissions, to the Prada Group’s entry into the capital and the new JacqArt company born from an agreement with the Marzotto Group, 2025 marked fundamental steps on the road to growth and the completion of the Group’s luxury offering,’ concluded the CEO.

Metal accessories are the invisible link between technology, aesthetics and sustainability in the fashion world. Yet, until a few years ago, this essential part of the supply chain lacked a recognised technical voice at international round tables. It was precisely this awareness that led to the creation of the Physis Consortium in 2022, an organisation that today represents a benchmark for the sector thanks to its scientific, coordinated and collaborative approach.

We discuss this with Ester Falletta, Technical Director of the Consortium, who is committed to promoting standardisation, sustainability and innovation projects that are helping to redefine global standards in the sector.

The Physis Consortium is a young but already very active organisation. What are its origins and what goals did it set itself from the outset?

«The Consortium was founded just over two years ago with the aim of creating a solid alliance between companies in the metal accessories supply chain for fashion and luxury goods. The idea was to rethink the very concept of the supply chain: not only those who produce the finished component, but also those who process the raw materials, those who develop the equipment, software and digital support solutions. In such a complex sector, only a systemic approach allows for true innovation.»

In just a few years, you have managed to gain recognition as technical representatives at international tables. What prompted you to embark on this path?

«It all started with an observation: the lack of representation of metal accessories in the places where the rules are written. We were not present in the ISO groups or in the European committees that define ESG and reporting standards. This created real difficulties for companies, which found themselves applying standards designed for other sectors, such as jewellery or automotive.

Today, however, we are directly involved in defining standards, from technical terminology to certification schemes for the sustainability and traceability of precious metals.»

One of the most significant results is the creation of the ISO group dedicated to corrosion testing for metal accessories. Can you explain what this is about?

«It was a fundamental step. Until now, there were no specific technical standards for assessing the durability and quality of metal accessories. Protocols borrowed from other sectors – automotive or watchmaking – were used, with obvious limitations in terms of applicability.

In January 2025, the WG5 – “Resistance testing” working group was set up, which is developing the first international standards for corrosion testing. The first will concern the interaction between metal accessories and leather, followed by resistance to artificial sweat, abrasion resistance, resistance to corrosive atmospheres and drop testing. This is a technical breakthrough that will finally offer clear quality criteria for a strategic sector of Italian manufacturing.»

At the same time, the Consortium is also involved in revising sustainability criteria. What is your role in the European committees?

«We are involved in the work of EFRAG, the committee that defines European rules for sustainability reporting. The voice of metal accessories was completely missing here.

We brought to the attention of the technical group the importance of including our supply chain, because uncalibrated standards risk penalising SMEs, which represent the vast majority of the sector. Our contribution has served to make the rules more concrete and applicable, introducing practical guidelines and real use cases.»

You are also working with ZDHC to develop the MRSL dedicated to metal. Why is this such an important step?

«Because there was a complete lack of a list of banned or restricted chemicals (MRSL) designed for galvanised metal accessories. Companies used lists taken from other sectors – such as leather – with often inadequate results.

With ZDHC, we have begun drafting the “metals” section of the new MRSL, involving chemical formulators, manufacturers and brands. It is a complex but necessary project, because it finally defines specific criteria for our supply chain. We plan to present the first draft by the end of 2025: it will be an operational tool that will enable companies to work in a safer and more transparent way.»

Many companies complain about the proliferation of certifications and audits. You are calling for greater harmonisation of existing schemes. In what sense?

«Today, companies find themselves managing overlapping audits and certifications, often on the same requirements. This is a huge waste of time and resources, even for brands. We are working to promote harmonisation between the various schemes – environment, health and safety, social responsibility and many others – in order to avoid duplication and recognise the validity of controls already carried out. The goal is simple: to make sustainability measurable, but also accessible. We cannot ask SMEs to become “companies that only do audits”.»

Looking ahead, what priorities are you focusing the efforts of the Physis Consortium on?

«We have three guidelines:

– Consolidate the culture of technical sustainability, supporting companies in adapting to new European regulations;
– Promote shared innovation projects, such as those on eco-design and new materials;
– Simplify and harmonise certification tools to lighten the bureaucratic burden and enhance the real quality of companies.

The Consortium will continue to work as a super partes entity, open to all companies in the supply chain, even those that are not members of the consortium. Our mission is to create a system: to build a common technical base that makes the sector more competitive, sustainable and credible at an international level.»

For over a century, the zip fastener has remained unchanged: two rows of teeth, a tab and a fabric tape. Then came YKK. With AiryString, the Japanese company that produces half of the world’s zips has eliminated the superfluous, removing the tape that seemed indispensable. The result is a tape-free zip that is lighter, thinner and softer, able to blend into the fabric instead of overlapping it.

The breakthrough is not aesthetic, but engineering. To compensate for the loss of structure caused by the tape, YKK redesigned the teeth, production process and machinery, developing a dedicated sewing machine with Juki Corp. This system allows the zip to be attached directly to the garment, simplifying production and improving the final result.

Compared to a Vislon® No.5 zip, AiryString is lighter, has less friction and offers smoother sliding. Tests conducted on seven different fabrics show greater softness and a more uniform tactile sensation. In technical or sports garments, such as those by Descente Japan or The North Face, the difference translates into dynamic comfort.

In terms of production, the reduction in materials and sewing steps means less consumption of fibres, dyes and water, with a lower environmental impact. An invisible zip, but tangible in its results: lighter, more flexible, more consistent with the evolution of contemporary materials.

And above all, consistent with the YKK motto: Small parts. Big difference.

Leather smells of earth and time. It tells a story of hands working slowly, of gestures handed down through generations, of patience that takes shape. And when this ancient material meets the vision of a contemporary designer, something rare is born: an authentic “renaissance”, like the one celebrated on 24 September in Milan.

The occasion was special: the Consorzio Cuoio di Toscana, an international leader in the production of sole leather, celebrated its 40th anniversary with the second edition of RI-NASCIMENTO Vol.2, an event that combined style, innovation and Made in Italy culture. The star of the evening was the new Opanka women’s shoe, designed by Diego Dolcini, the feminine evolution of a project that had already conquered the scene with its men’s version.

The shoe uses the traditional Opanka technique, where the sole and upper are fused into a single element. An ancient technique reinterpreted with a modern spirit: the collection features eight colour variations, including nappa leather and laminate, and introduces GAIT-TECH® technology, a patented biomechanical device that guarantees comfort and stability without sacrificing aesthetics. It is the perfect combination of artisan savoir-faire and technological research: tradition that becomes movement, form that becomes function.

“Our goal is to transform tradition into a contemporary language, creating authentic, sustainable and forward-looking products,” commented Antonio Quirici, president of the Consortium. A statement that sums up the mission of Cuoio di Toscana, global spokesperson for a district of excellence in tanning rooted between Santa Croce sull’Arno and San Miniato, where historic companies such as Bonistalli e Stefanelli, Lamonti Cuoio and Volpi Concerie keep alive the slow vegetable tanning process using natural tannins from chestnut, mimosa and quebracho.

In the world of soles, innovation runs light: less impact, more substance. Cirql®, a brand specialising in sustainable materials for the footwear industry, presents Zero36™, the new midsole foam that expands the ‘Zero’ family and offers a concrete alternative to traditional EVA.

Produced in Ho Chi Minh City, Zero36 is the result of a patented supercritical foaming process that is completely free of chemicals and capable of generating a uniform and resistant microcellular structure. The result is a lightweight, elastic and durable foam, composed of 36% bio-based materials and completely biodegradable through industrial composting at the end of its life cycle.

“Companies need solutions that combine comfort, performance and transparency throughout the supply chain”, explains Matt Thwaites, Vice President and General Manager of Cirql®. “With Zero36™, we want to make it easy for brands to build a low-impact, truly circular industry.”

The new material joins rTPU50 – a patented material composed of 50% GRS-certified post-industrial recycled TPU and produced using a chemical-free supercritical foaming process – and completes a range that now includes compostable, biodegradable or fully recyclable components. All Cirql® technologies are third-party tested and protected by over 25 international patents.

The mission is clear: to keep shoes out of landfills and offer the market sustainable, scalable and verifiable options.