In 2024, fashion market trends recorded a very slight growth in spending compared to 2023: +0.2%, four points below the pre-pandemic market value. But the January sales showed a negative result and forecasts for the year remained cautious, pushing the return to pre-Covid levels to 2026. Among the most relevant facts of the market for the past year are the further growth of promotional purchases to 54%, the shift of consumer traffic, and therefore purchases, from city shops to factory outlet centres and shopping malls, and the online which shows a stable value share (around 17%) thanks mainly to brick & clicks.
Among the sectors, there was a recovery in adult outerwear, especially women’s wear, and the continuing difficulties of children’s fashion, penalised by the demographic effect. Also in difficulty were underwear and hosiery and accessories/footwear.
Concern about the effects of the turbulent international political situation on the general economic situation is directing consumers towards strategies to defend their purchasing power. Clothing marks the pace, dropping two points compared to last autumn, with immediate consequences on the market: -3% in January 2025, a result on which the negative trend of sales (-4.2%) weighs heavily. This last negative figure is a clear indicator of a certain impatience with this historic form of promotion and is mirrored by the doubling of non-buyers from 7% in 2023 to 15% this year. There are several reasons for this disaffection: the fear of ‘artful’ price manoeuvres, the poor and shoddy assortment, the possibility of taking advantage of offers all the time, which makes sales less and less a ‘unique occasion’.
Starting from spending intentions for S/S 2025, forecasts for the new year are still characterised by uncertainty: a wait-and-see attitude prevails (waiting for the new beach and holiday collections, the summer sales, the evolution of the weather situation) and only one consumer out of four declares that he wants to buy immediately in March/April. The forecast for 2025 stands at +0.9% in terms of consumption, while the outlook for 2026 is more positive with a market ready to move decisively closer to pre-pandemic levels.
On 26 February, the European Commission delivered a decisive blow to green bureaucracy, presenting the Omnibus package that redesigns the rules on sustainability reporting for companies, including those in the fashion system. A measure that promises to lighten the administrative burden without compromising environmental commitment, at the same time coming out with the Clean Industrial Deal for competitiveness and resilience. Parliament and Council will take a decision in the coming months.
The main changes concern the reporting thresholds under the CSRD. Only companies with a turnover of more than EUR 50 million and more than 1,000 employees will now be obliged to submit detailed sustainability reports. For companies classified in ‘wave 2’ and ‘wave 3’, which are already scheduled to start reporting between 2026 and 2027, there will be a temporary suspension of two years. The Due Diligence Directive (CSDD) sees an easing of the controls, with a postponement of the timeframe and a prevailing focus on direct suppliers. The adoption of the guidelines is anticipated in July 2026.
Francesca Rulli, co-founder of Ympact, the first Italian group of innovative services and digital platforms for the sustainable growth of the fashion system, defines this change as a shift ‘from a logic of mere compliance to one of true strategic intelligence’. In this logic, the European Commission’s proposals lighten bureaucracy without distorting the objective. Less paper, more substance.
What changes for companies
A key passage of the transformation effectively summarised by Francesca Rulli is that ‘fulfilments change especially for small and medium-sized companies, which would have been called upon to make an overly burdensome and only compliance-oriented change of pace, wasting investment capacity in concrete projects. If we put reporting first and burden them with red tape, we take away space from business strategy and investment in product and process innovation; but it is precisely innovation that brings a return in economic terms and competitive advantage’.
While CSDD and CSRD are undergoing various changes, the other two fundamental pillars of the market strategy remain intact: the Ecodesign regulation, which introduces the digital product passport – starting with textiles, batteries, electronics and construction – and the extended producer responsibility scheme, already law in Italy from 2022. ‘Everything should be read in a strategic key, as an orientation of the business model towards a better competitive advantage. The company that innovates products and processes, invests in human capital and stakeholder relations acquires positioning, reputation and reliability and can bring these elements of advantage to its product also through the Digital Passport,’ continues Rulli.
Despite regulatory uncertainty, the fashion industry was not unprepared. Ympact, an integrated system of competences and digital solutions created to support brands and supply chains, tells a story of concrete transformation: born from the union of two companies with 10 years of experience in traceability and sustainability in fashion, today it supports over 3,000 companies, collaborates with more than 50 global brands and maps 80,000 suppliers in 22 different countries. In 2024, a further 51 companies joined the more than 200 producers of Italian fabrics, yarns, fashion accessories and started implementation projects with the 4sustainability framework, committing to strategic initiatives on six key fronts: low-impact materials, elimination of harmful chemicals, process traceability, organisational well-being, reduction of environmental impact and circular economy practices.
The concrete challenge for companies
The new regulations are forcing companies to think deeply. It is no longer just a matter of filling in forms, but of rethinking their business model, considering sustainability as an integral – and necessary – part of their strategy. It is a cultural change rather than a regulatory one, requiring companies to look beyond the immediate. Communicating the real value of products, documenting every step in the supply chain, demonstrating attention to the wellbeing of people and the environment becomes a categorical imperative in order to remain competitive in an increasingly attentive and demanding market. In the past year, 780 companies have completed the 4s assessment, a data collection that returns a detailed report on performance in each of these dimensions. A clear signal: the sector is ready for a profound transformation, far beyond regulatory obligations.
The analysis: sustainability as resilience
‘Companies that control environmental, social and governance risks demonstrate greater capacity to deal with market turbulence. In Italy we have an excellent supply chain that is investing in innovation and generating positive impact. There are still few brands that undertake well-structured paths with their supply chains, focusing on projects and not just on the often replicated reporting requirements. Hence our project that supports the supply chain in improvement projects and the brand in the unambiguous collection of information elements for the creation of strategic partnerships,’ – says Rulli.
Future perspectives
While the European Parliament and Council are about to evaluate the proposals, the fashion industry is looking ahead. The McKinsey report ‘The State of Fashion 2025’ confirms a crucial fact: at a time of rising prices and low propensity to spend, it is becoming a priority for brands to communicate the real value of their products. ‘The digital product passport will be decisive, because it will offer guarantees through verifiable and objective data. Above all, it will contribute not only to circularity, but also to consumer education, allowing consumers to evaluate important information about the product, right down to environmental and social profile elements. It will help him consciously choose whom to reward with his purchases. A revolution that goes beyond the simple reduction of impact, transforming sustainability into a tool for competitiveness and innovation,’ concludes Francesca Rulli.
The first date is 15-17 May 2025 with the 33rd edition of Shoes & Leather – Guangzhou, which incorporates the International Footwear Exhibition (IFLE) – Guangzhou, the one-stop sourcing fair for the leather and footwear industry, and will be held at Hall 17.1-20.1, Area D, Canton Fair Complex, Guangzhou. The event is expected to host over 800 exhibitors from 20 countries and regions, including 20 group pavilions, and attract more than 20,000 trade visitors from 50 countries and regions, occupying an exhibition area of 40,000 square metres. Participants will have the opportunity to explore a wide range of products, including the latest in footwear machinery, leathers, materials, components, chemicals, accessories and footwear products. This event addresses all aspects of the industry, offering valuable opportunities for collaboration and business growth.
The second event is scheduled for 9-11 July 2025 with the 25th edition of Shoes & Leather – Vietnam, which incorporates the International Footwear & Leather Products Exhibition – Vietnam, and will take place at the Saigon Exhibition & Convention Center in Ho Chi Minh City. The event – which aims to strengthen its international presence by mirroring the format of the Guangzhou exhibition – will feature more than 800 exhibitors from 30 countries and regions, including 20 group pavilions, and will attract more than 15,000 trade visitors from 50 countries and regions, all in an exhibition area of 20,000 square metres. Vietnam, with its growing economy and expanding leather and footwear sector, offers an ideal setting for Asian and international buyers and suppliers.
Behind the success of the two events is the experience and know-how of Top Repute Co. Ltd., an exhibition company committed since 1989 to making a valuable contribution to the leather and footwear industry by promoting innovation, networking and business growth within the sector (www.toprepute.com.hk/).
The WORTMANN Group in Detmold is sending a clear signal to retailers and is investing around 20 million euros in the expansion of its logistics centre by building a new, additional, fully automated shuttle warehouse.
The aim of this forward-oriented investment is to enable even faster and more demand-orientated deliveries to the retail trade. This will double the delivery capacity for the German market and other European markets.
“In doing so, we are creating a basis for further growth. We are consolidating our position as a strong partner to retailers and further expanding our reliability,” says Jens Beining, Managing Partner and CEO of WORTMANN Schuh-Holding KG.
By combining the existing pallet warehouse with the new shuttle warehouse, large quantities of goods can be stored and transported even more efficiently in future, while smaller orders and short-term requirements can be processed quickly and reliably. This optimised warehousing opens up new service concepts for retail partners and meets their requirements for flexibility, short delivery times and high product availability more than ever before. One focus is also on further expanding success with carry-over and never-out-of-stock items, which make a significant contribution to the stability of sales in retail.
The fully automated high-bay warehouse built in 2010 can already store and handle more than 3.5 million pairs on 27,500 pallets at the Detmold site. The addition of the new fully automated shuttle warehouse will increase the storage volume for further growth by around 1 million pairs.
Construction is scheduled to begin in September 2025. Completion is scheduled for the first half of 2027.
Born out of curiosity and its exploratory nature, the Vans x Nicole McLaughlin collection is a concentrate of adventure. Known for her ability to recycle disposable materials into innovative and multifunctional designs, Nicole brings her playful spirit to this limited collection. Mixing practical aspects with her creative perspective, the collaboration offers a unique fusion of style and functionality.
“It is essential to have elements of functionality, mixed with a sense of conceptual art and style,” says Nicole McLaughlin. “Creating pieces that can be multipurpose, but also fun, has always been my goal. For this collection, I drew inspiration from vintage hiking backpacks from the 1970s and the aesthetics of outdoor gear from that era.
Part of the collaboration is the Vans x Nicole McLaughlin Slip-On RS, which features a typical backpack pocket on the toe and adjustable nylon buckles. The Slip-On RS is designed with durability and functionality in mind, with an upper made from 40% recycled canvas and treated with PFC-free DWR to ensure waterproofing, while grooves on the outsole offer increased traction on different surfaces.
U.S. Polo Assn., the official brand of the United States Polo Association (USPA), the largest association of polo clubs and polo players in North America, is celebrating its 135th anniversary, a milestone commemorating more than a century of leadership in the world of polo. Embracing the rich heritage of the sport of polo, the USPA’s 135th anniversary celebration focuses on the motto ‘Born to Play’. This theme highlights the adrenaline and athleticism of polo, both on and off the field, and invites fans and consumers to become part of this historic tradition.
For the 135th anniversary, U.S. Polo Assn. has launched a Limited Edition Collection that proudly celebrates polo’s rich heritage and tradition. The collection features the brand’s classic red, white and blue colours, enhanced with exclusive 135th anniversary graphics, celebratory gold and silver accents, and exquisite design and fabric details. The collection includes bags, shoes and clothing. Each piece features a limited edition hangtag, designed to commemorate this milestone.
The popular women’s shoe brand is expanding its range to include men’s shoes for the first time; under the new sub-brand, TMRS MEN, the range will be presented independently at the point of sale while at the same time benefitting from the high profile and familiar values associated with the “by Tamaris” promise.
“Our brand strategy remains clearly focused on the female target group,” explains Jens Beining, CEO of the Wortmann Group. “However, with TMRS MEN by Tamaris, we are utilising the strength of our core brand to strategically expand the range and open up a new dimension – one that integrates men as a natural part of this world.”
Whilst with Nowana, Tamaris is launching a lightweight sneaker that testifies to a new identity, while at the same time bearing the popular shoe brand’s unmistakeable signature style. This product launch marks an important milestone in Tamaris’ strategic orientation. The international launch is to be accompanied by a campaign that is unique in the brand’s history.
The brand introduces a new sporty sole, with a strong character and a thicker shape, but still light and comfortable. A perfect balance between functionality and understated elegance, giving a modern and irresistible touch to traditional footwear. Among the top proposals is a brand new Oxford model with double volume, while the moccasin remains the undisputed protagonist of the collection, declined in many variants: with fringes, with decorative details, mask and much more.
There are also ankle boots, Mary Jane’s, Chelsea boots and military boots, flanked by the sporty basket line, launched last winter and still very popular. Heels are offered in three heights: 25 mm, 40 mm and 55 mm, to meet every need for style and comfort.
This is how one of its distributors presents the brand: “Pikolinos is a very successful Spanish brand. Founded in 1984 by Juan Peran Ramos, it reaped its first successes in the home market. Shortly afterwards it began its foreign expansion, starting in neighbouring France. Subsequently, it established itself in the Comfort Fashion sector throughout Europe, also conquering the Italian market. Its models are characterised by wide fits disguised by streamlined lines. The insoles guarantee comfort and a sporty shoe feeling.”
Now Pikolinos is focusing on extreme comfort, that of walking barefoot in total freedom. To do this it has created a collection, presented at the last MICAM, characterised by a wide and ergonomic upper, an extremely flexible and sensitive sole that allows the foot to feel the ground. The components are of great quality, from the softness of the leather to the transitional insoles.
A ‘barefoot’ collection certified by Umana Biomechanical Analysis Centre.
Hidden White journey began with a vision to create footwear that merges minimal designs with uncompromised comfort, all while adhering to a mindful, modern approach. Designed for those who appreciate the beauty in minimalism and seek both form and function, Hidden White shoes are crafted to elevate everyday style effortlessly.
“Our commitment to comfort is unwavering. Hidden White shoes are engineered to provide a perfect balance between support and ease. Using simple design principles, we focus on creating shoes that feel as good as they look, making them ideal for people who are constantly on the go.” From breathable materials to cushioned insoles, each detail is carefully considered to enhance the fitting experience.
One of the strengths of the collection is the partnership with OrthoLite®. The Hidden White collection, in fact, uses insoles with the Eco™ Technology formulated with 12% Bio-Oil. OrthoLite® is the leading manufacturer and supplier of insole foams for the world’s leading footwear brands. By replacing a portion of the petroleum with plant-derived bio-oil sourced from castor beans, the insoles reduce carbon footprint while providing the customers with the comfort and performance of OrthoLite® products.
