U.S. Polo Assn. has no shortage of new proposals even on the trainer front, which has always been the brand’s flagship model. Among the novelties for HIM presented in June at Pitti Uomo is the contemporary elegance of Caius, a must-have for casual lovers thanks to a combination of raffia fabric and leather and PU details. The thick sole, with transparent rubber detailing, offers comfort and stability for an optimal fit without losing originality. The new entry is also Jake, which enriches the traditional silhouette with contemporary elements thanks to vibrant colour accents. Made from a combination of nylon and mesh, it offers breathability and lightness, while real suede details add a premium touch and micro-injected finishes enhance the structure of the shoe and enhance its aesthetics.
The ‘New Standard’ by Seishou
“I designed this summer line based on my New Standard style, balancing classic and modern, elegant and casual.” – says designer Yuko Matsuzaki who, together with Masaharu Ikeda, created the brand that combines Japanese design – famous for its comfortable, essential and functional approach – and high-quality Italian craftsmanship. It is no coincidence that Seishou means ‘singing in unison’. At Pitti Uomo in June, the brand, present for the second time, proposed a collection of comfortable footwear, specially researched in their essential design and structure, conceived to be worn on any occasion.
In particular, three new models were proposed. Cruz, a moccasin available for both men and women, characterised by the softness of the leathers. Santa, the summer version of an ankle boot with a “French” sole, available for men and women. Clara, a summer reinterpretation of the classic moccasin.
Drop in turnover in the first quarter of 2024
The scenario that emerges from the latest report produced by the Confindustria Moda Study Centre for Assocalzaturifici highlights a sharp slowdown in the Italian footwear sector in the first quarter of 2024, with a contraction in both exports (-9.7% in value and -10.3% in pairs) and turnover (-10.1%), as well as a drop in purchases by Italian families (-1.6% in quantity and -0.7% in expenditure).
“The customary survey conducted in May among our associates,” says Giovanna Ceolini, President of Assocalzaturifici, “showed a drop in turnover for 68% of the sample, with a not insignificant portion of associates (18%) reporting a contraction of even more than -20%. Moreover, the sentiment of entrepreneurs does not show confidence’.
The report shows that, as far as exports are concerned (to which 85% of domestic production is destined), 51.9 million pairs were sold in the first quarter of 2024 (6 million fewer than in the same months of last year), worth 3.17 billion euro. After a resilient January (at least in terms of value: +1.4%), the trend became more penalising in February (-6.2%), to the point of registering a slump in the order of -20% in March, both in terms of value and pairs.
The analysis by product type shows declines, both in quantity and value, for all sectors. In particular, that of footwear with leather uppers, first in importance with an incidence of 65% on foreign sales in value, shows -8.6% in volume with -7% in value over the first 3 months of 2023.
Among the destinations, as in 2023, the EU markets showed less unfavourable trends (-4.1% in value) than the non-EU markets (down by -15% overall).
In the EU, France and Spain, despite falling in quantity, grew in value (+1.7% and +8.5% respectively in Q1 2023). France, whose figures also include the return flows of production carried out in Italy on behalf of third parties for transalpine luxury brands, confirmed its position as the top destination, both in terms of value and volume (down -4.3%). Exports to Germany fell by more than -10% and to Belgium by -20% in value (with -37.6% in quantity).
Outside the EU, what stands out first of all is the further halving (-53.4%, with -36.7% in volume) of direct flows to Switzerland, which has always been a traditional logistic-distribution hub for fashion multinationals, and has dropped to fourth place in value destinations: most of the transit in the Swiss hubs has been replaced by direct shipments to end markets.
The growth in exports in value to the Far East (+4.3%) and the Middle East (+14.1%) – where the presence of designer labels is traditionally stronger – the only macro-areas to experience an increase compared to 2023, should also be read in the light of these dynamics. In the Far East, in particular, China (+10.8% in value and +17.8% in quantity) and Hong Kong (+26% in value and +4.9% in volume, but still far from the pre-Covid 2019 pairs) performed well. Japan held up (-0.9%, +3.1% in quantity), while South Korea recorded sharp declines (in the region of -30%).
On the American continent, similar reductions in value affected both the United States (-8.8%) and Canada (-7.2%). The United Kingdom still performed poorly (-6.1% in value).
As regards the countries of the former Soviet bloc, there was a drop in sales in Russia (-22.4% in value and -17.8% in pairs), while Ukraine recovered in value (+21%), but against a -11% drop in volume. On the other hand, the favourable trend continues in Kazakhstan (+4.8% in value and +12.2% in quantity).
Finally, as regards the demographics of companies, at the end of March the number of active companies in Italy dropped to 3,490 (with a negative balance of -74 units, between industry and handicrafts, compared to December 2023, equal to -2.1%), flanked by a -0.8% drop in employees.
Italian leather goods: 2024 starts uphill
According to the Economic Outlook prepared by the Confindustria Moda Study Centre, 2024 promises to be a difficult year for Italian leather goods. Data for the first quarter of 2024, in fact, confirm the extreme weakness of demand (first and foremost international demand), with a further squeeze on orders and consequent repercussions on companies’ production activity.
The most significant datum is the -18.1% shown by the ISTAT index of industrial production for the item ‘Travel and leather goods’ in the first 3 months of the year compared to the corresponding period of 2023, which explains the reason for the new massive recourse to wage integration tools and casts more than a shadow on the sales trend in the following months.
The indications gathered last May among associated leather goods entrepreneurs through the customary sample survey describe an equally unfavourable picture, estimating a -12% average overall drop in turnover compared to January-March 2023 among the sample companies.
Taking a closer look at the ISTAT data available to date, it emerges that, in the first 3 months of the year, leather goods were sold abroad for 2.66 billion euro, or -11.8%, with a decrease also in KG (-4.8%). Examination by destination shows better performance for EU outlets (which limit the drop in value on January-March 2023 to -0.9%) than for non-EU markets (down instead by -16.3% overall). Among the European Union partners, France – the first destination, with a share of total Italian exports of around 16%, whose figures also include products made for French luxury brands – shows a contraction of -4.9% (much more severe in KG: -27%). Germany held its own (ranked 6th in value, but 1st in KG), which, against a timid -0.4% in value, recorded +8.2% in volume. Finally, all the other main EU members increased in value – and in several cases by double digits -: Spain, Poland, the Netherlands, Austria and Greece.
Among non-EU markets, the collapse of Switzerland stands out (-76% in value on January-March 2023 and -54.4% in KG), the traditional logistical platform of fashion multinationals: a figure linked to a change in the distribution strategies of fashion labels, which have replaced transit through Swiss hubs with direct shipment to end markets.
In the Far East – where leather goods exports remained on the whole more or less stable in the first part of the year (-0.5%) -, growth in value involved Japan (+3.5%), Taiwan (+8.7%), Thailand (+15.6%), Singapore (+3.3%) and above all Hong Kong (+29.7%, which significantly reduced the gap with 2019). On the other hand, the area’s two main markets declined: China (-4.8%) and South Korea (-9.4%), which occupy 3rd and 4th place in the overall export ranking. In the Middle East, there was a leap in the Arab Emirates (+75% approximately) and excellent performance in Qatar (+12.7%); in both cases, these increases were accompanied by non-marginal declines in KG. North America struggled (-0.3% in value in the United States and -9.5% in Canada) although, thanks to the excellent results achieved in 2022, the comparison with 2019 levels puts current values more than 85% above then.
In terms of merchandise, both exports of leather products (-14.8%) and those of substitute goods (-4.8%) were down in value, although they increased in KG (+13.7%). Reductions of more than -10% affected the two main merchandise items, namely handbags (which account for over 70% of foreign sales in value), down -12.2% compared to the first 3 months of 2023, and small leather goods (-16.3%). Among the remaining types, belts also lost ground, -12.7%, while luggage and travel goods were stable (+0.2%).
Imports in the first three months of the current year recorded a decrease of -7.5% in value, with a -1.2% in KG.
The sector trade balance, while still largely in surplus at EUR 1.79 billion, was down -13.8% on January-March 2023.
On the domestic front, the ISTAT index of the value of retail sales in Italy (referring to “leather goods + footwear”) showed a weak increase in the first 3 months (+1.4%), which nevertheless leaves the current levels still below the -1.3% of those (already largely unsatisfactory because marked by a continuous slow erosion in previous years) of the same pre-pandemic 2019 period.
The above indications, relating to the results achieved in the first quarter and the expectations for the second quarter, lead to an estimate for the first 6 months of the year of a drop in turnover of more than -9% and lengthen the timeframe for the recovery.
Le suddette indicazioni, relative ai risultati conseguiti nel primo trimestre e alle attese per il secondo, fanno stimare per i primi 6 mesi dell’anno una flessione del fatturato superiore al -9% e allungano i tempi della ripartenza.
Losanga and Tokyo star models for SS25 Lotto Leggenda
The new Losanga line celebrates the unforgettable moments of sport, while Tokyo represents the sporting heritage of running, taking inspiration from the running shoe models of the 1980s, reinterpreted today in a contemporary key. Each model recounts a memorable event in Lotto’s sporting history, for example the Losanga ’76 is a tribute to the Italian Davis Cup victory of that year.
The Tokyo model, on the other hand, is inspired by the running world of the 1980s and the vibrant Japanese atmosphere of the city whose name they bear. The presence of Japanese characters lends a unique and special touch to the line with its classic and timeless flavour. Tokyo Ginza Pure features a voluminous sole and a classic design that capture the essence of vintage sportswear, while the ton sur ton nuances of grey and green are perfect for an urban chic look
The strong point of both the Losanga and Tokyo collections is the attention to detail and the careful choice of exclusive, high-quality materials, such as light nappa leather and suede. Worn unlined, they provide an enveloping sensation of comfort and softness, ideal for a fresh, summery style with a timeless aesthetic.
Newport H2 by KEEN
KEEN’s most renowned sandal traces its origins back to the first model created by the company, the Newport, designed to offer optimal protection on the toe and therefore chosen in particular by those who like to venture outdoors. Today, Newport is offered in an “H2” version, because it is designed for use in an aquatic environment or in wet conditions. The upper, made of PFC-free polyester, is in line with the brand’s sustainability values: it is water-repellent, easily washable and quick-drying. The model features KEEN.PROTECT, the iconic toe protection. Comfort is guaranteed thanks to the EVA footbed and midsole, which provide lightweight cushioning throughout the day. The non-marking rubber outsole provides perfect traction and grip on the ground even on wet ground.
We want a Simac Tanning Tech more and more connected to the world
People often celebrate victories or achievements. In the case of the 50th edition of SIMAC TANNING TECH, a success story is celebrated with the awareness that the past behind us must serve as a springboard towards the future.
Agostino Apolito, Director of ASSOMAC, the event’s organisers, explains it well: ‘In a difficult and complex economic moment to decipher, we believe that recovery can only come from getting to know better and better the various international markets in which we are present by weaving ever closer relations with market players and, together with them, looking to the future.
That is why the celebration of the 50th edition of the fair will be marked by events capable of promoting international connections and relations. Such as the Gala Evening on 18 September, which will be an opportunity for the approximately 300 guests to develop increasingly effective networking with the different souls that inhabit the panorama of technology and innovation in the footwear, leather goods and leather sectors. The dinner will also give guests the opportunity to attend a talk that will provide brief insights into the influence and repercussions that current geopolitical movements will have on the fashion industry, seeking to illuminate possible future scenarios and prospects.
The initiative planned for 17 September together with The European House – Ambrosetti is also along the same lines: a moment of encounter and comparison between technology suppliers and the most important brands in the fashion sector.
“We want to interpret the mission of the fair in a broad sense and offer more and more occasions that help the upstream supply chain to get to know the needs of the players that are directly confronted with the demands of the market”.
There will be no shortage of opportunities to recall the past thanks to a celebratory supply chain exhibition that tells the story and the evolutions of the last 50 years of technological innovations, components and materials as well as finished products.
“We want to illustrate the immense value of the complex work that the entire fashion supply chain carries out day after day. We want to talk about a history that has always looked to the future. These 50 years of trade fairs have taught us that to imagine tomorrow there is no other way but to open up to the market. This is why we have thought of an edition of SIMAC TANNING TECH that will allow the 100-plus international delegates attending the fair to meet and get to know each other better so that together we can imagine a future of development and growth. As ASSOMAC we particularly want to meet the many countries where we are well established – I am thinking of India, Vietnam, Pakistan and South America. But we also want to exploit the synergy with other concurrent events in the industry to open new channels with other markets, such as the United States. Probing new opportunities in markets with an important industrial fabric and that might need our technologies”.
Agostino Apolito
101st edition of Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags: satisfaction and further internationalisation
More than 9,000 people attended the fair, marking significant growth compared to both January 2024 and last year’s June edition.
The return of several countries to Riva del Garda following the pandemic was also notable: Uzbekistan, Rwanda, Falkland Island, Eritrea, Suriname, completing an ever-widening global representation (100 countries).
“Over the fair days, we have seen a widespread and overall sense of satisfaction,” says Roberto Pellegrini, President of Riva del Garda Fierecongressi. “In particular, I think it is important to highlight the increase in visitors from Latin America and Europe, and especially the significant return of buyers from Germany and Italy, up from June 2023.”
Buyers whose voices met those of 1,300 exhibitors, brands and companies representing 40 countries, including the world’s major producers (80% international, 20% Italian) spread across a total exhibition area of 50,000 square metres, 11 fully occupied halls and 4 participating hotels. The Gardabags area dedicated to bags, luggage and accessories was hosted by 47 companies from Bangladesh, China, Germany, India, Italy, Poland, Portugal, Spain, Taiwan and Turkey.
The voices spoke not only of the new collections for the upcoming Spring Summer 2025 season, but also echoed throughout the 19 events that animated the 4-day fair. All aimed at offering a complete overview of the footwear, bags and fashion accessories market: from the analysis of consumer trends to the showcasing of several exhibitors’ models, carefully selected for the Highlights Area; from the in-depth analysis of markets in different countries through the Market Focuses to the celebration of the event’s 50th anniversary with the highly successful Summer Celebration Nights .
“The enthusiastic participation in all the events we offered at this edition has validated our vision: to innovate the trade fair format and provide an event that enhances business opportunities well beyond the traditional stand space. We recognised the importance of going beyond the ‘mere’ organisation of a trade fair and the value of encouraging strong relationships among industry players. We are already seeing the results of these efforts with the emergence of a genuine community that conducts business at Riva del Garda in a totally unique atmosphere and style,” says the General Manager of Riva del Garda Fierecongressi, Alessandra Albarelli.
At the 101st edition too, there was a high focus on innovation dedicated to distribution, thanks to the presence of 10 startups from 7 countries: The renewed interest in Innovation Village Retail further underscores the invaluable role of innovation in the fashion industry, of which the industry itself has proven to be keenly aware.
In particular, the presentation by Tymely, which integrates process mining, automation tools, AI and LLM to model customer service processes in the retail sector, caught the attention of the 18 jurors tasked with selecting the winner of the Startup Competition. A solution enabling up to 80% automation of customer service tasks and the handling of even the most complex tickets. While existing “chatbot” solutions mainly address frequently asked questions, Tymely also deals with requests requiring deep system access, with ticket coverage reaching an unprecedented 80%, including partial order exchanges, changed shipping addresses, returns and more.
Tymely and the other two finalist startups (Fibble and YouAddict), will accompany the fair organisers to Copenhagen during the next stage of Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags Around the World, where innovation dedicated to distribution will be promoted in collaboration with the Danish Retailers Association.
And if a voice often tells more than words, the tone of this edition undoubtedly resounds with optimism: “This year of record growth, in which we also celebrated 50 years of business and 100 editions, motivates us to further pursue internationalisation, ensuring the best possible matching of supply and demand. So, we will continue to visit industry players all around the world with the Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags Around the World project. We will head to China, India and Turkey in the coming months seeking to further expand the diversity of collections available at the next edition from 11 to 14 January 2025,” concludes GianPaola Pedretti, Exhibition Manager.
Cuoio di Toscana alongside Marine Serre with the CDT Prize
Consorzio Cuoio di Toscana – spokesman in the world of one of the leading tanning districts and expression of the excellence of a unique sole leather, obtained by slow vegetable tanning – accompanied under the umbrella of the CDT Prize, the debut of Marine Serre at the Florentine kermesse as Guest Designer, supporting the French designer for her event.
“Since 2021 we have been supporting young talents through the CDT Prize, with the aim of enhancing creativity and raising awareness of the importance of a quality, Made in Italy product such as our leather. This collaboration testifies to the raw material’s ability to respond to innovation from a sustainable perspective, which is essential for the future of the industry,’ said Antonio Quirici, President of Cuoio di Toscana.
Cuoio di Toscana also acted as spokesperson for the sustainable commitment by supporting the eighth edition of S|Style, an exhibition project of Fondazione Pitti Discovery, with the aim of valorising a generation of international fashion designers committed to sustainable development. Cuoio di Toscana also played a leading role at the Tuscan fair by presenting the Infinity Mirror installation, dedicated to the silver special edition of the iconic moccasin characterised by the Green Sole, the manifesto of the Consortium’s sustainable values. A conceptual and immersive project characterised by an infinite projection of the shoe, through mirrored surfaces: just as a mirror inserted in an environment projects what surrounds it without modifying it, in the same way Cuoio di Toscana – by recovering the raw material from food waste – succeeds in reintroducing it into the market, after vegetable tanning in a vat, offering an environmentally friendly product.
Green George: the beauty of the timeless classic
The Marche-based handcrafted footwear brand founded in 1971 presented its collection for next summer at Pitti Uomo in Florence, made of timeless style, meticulous craftsmanship where every step is fundamental to obtain a shoe of the highest quality and the bearer of a distinctive personality. The protagonists are once again classic and timeless models such as Derby loafers, boat moccasins and Slip-ons.
In particular, we find the boat model in soft dove-coloured suede, with an ultra-light rubber sole to offer reliable grip without weighing down. Ideal workmanship guarantees unparalleled flexibility and comfort, making it a must-have for those seeking discreet elegance and unparalleled comfort.
Then we have the moccasin made of fine dark brown suede leather, characterised by a Blake construction that ensures extraordinary comfort, allowing the sole to be flexible. The green leather sole, a distinctive mark of the Green George style, further underlines the exclusivity of this moccasin.