The famous footwear brand founded in 1975 on the island of Majorca, Spain, has long been committed to sustainability with reuse and circularity projects. These include ReCamper, an initiative that aims to extend the life of Camper shoes with services that include cleaning, repairing or converting them into other footwear. In this way, they are prevented from ending up in landfills because, of the 23 billion pairs of shoes produced each year, 95% end up like that.
ReWalk is a collection of used and second-hand shoes that have been cleaned, disinfected and repaired to make them ready to walk again and ReCrafted a unique collection made from recycled Camper shoes.
For its collections, Camper uses certified and innovative natural materials, leather produced using environmentally responsible practices and certified by the Leather Working Group, recycled materials that minimise environmental impact and favouring simple construction with minimal materials, glues and stitching to reduce waste and CO2 emissions while increasing performance and comfort.
FIMAST, held at Fiera di Vicenza from Nov. 6 to 8, is a B2B event that shines a spotlight on technological innovations in the hosiery and sock, 3D and seamless footwear, as well as technical and sportswear supply chains, bringing together major industry players, brands and protagonists of the production districts for yarns, production machinery, technologies and finished product.
A context harbinger of some interesting presentations of projects capable of interpreting the theme of sustainability in an innovative way.
Like the eco-sustainable sneakers made using recycled tires and biobased by-products of agricultural activities – derived from corn, apples, mycelium and grapes – of the ID.EIGHT project, born from the meeting between creative designer Dong Seon Lee and the brand’s co-founder Giuliana Borzillo.
Or like the elegant ballerina shoe noteworthy as the first handcrafted shoe designed by a generative artificial intelligence questioned about market trends and models best suited for the luxury market. The initiative is by Peron Shoes, a historic footwear industry on the Riviera del Brenta. A reality with 50 years of experience, representing the union between the best Italian footwear tradition and new technologies, able to develop shoes from recycled and fully recyclable materials.
An artisanal Italian shoe, but designed by artificial intelligence and notarized, at every stage of processing, by blockchain technology. It is a hitherto unprecedented combination that has given birth to “First handmade shoe designed by AI,” the project created in collaboration with EZ Lab, an innovative Padua-based company specializing in blockchain technology that through its Made in Block platform enhances and protects Made in Italy productions. The pair of ballerinas, which was already presented in early 2024 at the World AI Cannes Festival, an international event on artificial intelligence issues, houses an NFC tag inside the sole that, when in contact with a smartphone, allows consumers to access the Digital Product Passport to discover all the information they want about sustainability, traceability, origin and company history. “These ballerinas are the first product in a new line of shoes designed by artificial intelligence for our Via della Paglia brand,” explains Alberto Masenadore, manager of Peron Shoes. “In today’s market, there is an increasing number of conscious consumers who favor products for which it is possible to know the origin in addition to the quality and safety of the product itself. For this reason, we decided to register our footwear with Blockchain, which provides certain information, to guarantee every single sale of our products. Our goal is to share with customers, in a transparent way, all information about the origin and authenticity of our items.”
Finally, a moment of discussion and inspiration for the future of the sports industry. During the talk organized by ASSOSPORT, entitled “Footwear and Tubular Knitting: Innovations and Challenges for the Sports Sector,” key topics such as sustainability and innovation for the footwear world were explored.
With contributions from Armando Cietto of AC Studio and Davide Slongo of SIDI, the possibilities and challenges related to the development of tubular knitting shoes were discussed, with a focus on the outdoor and bike sectors.
From the discussion, it emerged how tubular knitting applied to the construction of a shoe (a sock that is joined to a sole) is indeed a technology with great advantages: construction is very easy since neither cutting nor stitching are needed, processes that are typically critical, particularly in the current historical moment that suffers from a severe shortage of skilled and experienced labor. “Knit is undoubtedly the right way to make the footwear construction process increasingly automated,” the speakers stressed. There is no shortage of weaknesses: flexibility, wear and tear, and water repellency are some of the issues yet to be ironed out. Not to mention the little collaboration between sports brands and those who manufacture machines and yarns.
Edoardo Iannuzzi, Chief of Innovation di ACBC
For Edoardo Iannuzzi, ACBC‘s Chief of Innovation, tubular knit construction also has advantages: “Four years ago we decided to invest in this construction process together with Missoni because tubular knit produces no waste and reduces the number of processes with consequent savings in energy and logistics, as it is not necessary to outsource some processes. It allows for process optimization.” And ACBC has believed in it so much that it has developed together with BASF an innovative material that Iannuzzi previewed just at FIMAST and that will be launched on the market in the coming months: “We will offer companies the basic building blocks to make fabrics and knits in TPU of excellent quality, so much so that it resembles polyester in terms of breathability and touch. A very durable, fully recyclable yarn that can be used to make knit soles and uppers. A shoe, therefore, monomaterial and therefore entirely recyclable at the end of its life.”
ACBC also does not overlook the financial sustainability of the project: “For 1 euro of recycling cost, a material worth 3 euros is produced, with no waste or rejects.”
Designers are prioritizing sustainable materials and innovative construction techniques, with a strong emphasis on versatile shoe designs that can adapt to multiple environments. Block heels and cleated soles are emerging as key trends, offering both aesthetic appeal and practical support
Designed for efficient material consumption and easy separation, Vision is built with a unique structure that allows it to be cut in two, separating the upper from the lower unit to recycle the latter, ensuring a more virtuous product life cycle. Vision uses a mono-material TPU midsole and outsole that can be separated and recycled to produce ski boots, reducing the carbon footprint by 54% compared to the Sense Ride 5, the benchmark trail shoe.
The Vision boasts an infiniFOAM midsole and a contaGRIP outsole, both made from a fully recyclable TPU, which offers comfortable and durable cushioning, as well as precise grip on any terrain, especially in muddy conditions. The midsole uses INDEX.03 technology, an injected TPU foam, which offers an improved level of cushioning and terrain filtering compared to the Sense Ride 5, according to lab tests.
Vision was developed by the Salomon team at the Annecy Design Center, based in the heart of the French Alps, in collaboration with ultra-trail legend François D’Haene: ‘The goal was to create a recyclable shoe that was also versatile enough to accompany runners on their daily runs, on longer runs and even in races!’ – says Romain Berger, Product Line Manager Trail Running.
On the occasion of National Tree Day, 21 November, the Consorzio Cuoio di Toscana celebrated one year of the Breath for the Planet project, launched in November 2023 and which has led to the planting of 50 trees in the San Bartolo a Cintoia Park. A project created with the aim of contributing to the ecological redevelopment plan, started in 2019, of a 10-hectare area and which is part of the Consortium’s tangible plan to protect the environment and promote eco-responsible practices.
‘Sustainability is not a claim, but a commitment that must be translated into concrete actions,’ commented Antonio Quirici, President of the Consorzio Cuoio di Toscana.
Among the concrete projects that the Consorzio Cuoio di Toscana has undertaken for a green and responsible economy is the CDT Prize, an ongoing initiative that enhances talent and sustainable innovation, raising awareness of the value of a high quality, Made in Italy product such as leather. Launched in 2021, CDT Prize has given support to international designers and brands such as Thebe Magugu, Act n.1, Marine Serre, Marco Rambaldi and Federico Cina, demonstrating how the raw material ‘leather’ can respond to the needs not only of the market, but also of the environment.
The leather produced by the seven tanneries that are part of the Consortium, located in the districts of San Miniato and Santa Croce sull’Arno in the province of Pisa, is in fact plastic-free, recyclable and derived from food industry waste, which would otherwise be disposed of in landfills or incinerated. Thanks to slow vegetable tanning in tanks, a practice that represents a virtuous example of circularity, the raw hides are transformed into a high-performance and compostable material, recognised worldwide as a quality brand with low environmental impact.
The seven tanneries are required to adhere to strict sustainability criteria, including animal welfare, water purification, solid waste recycling and the use of renewable energy for production activities.
The need for sustainability is now undeniable. The impact of industry on the environment, communities and the individual can no longer be ignored, and all stakeholders – from regulators to consumers – want to see positive action on climate change, biodiversity loss and social impact. SGS is responding to that call with IMPACT NOW for sustainability.
SGS recognizes that every organization is at a different stage in their sustainability journey. Whether they are just getting started or are looking to optimize their existing sustainability initiatives, IMPACT NOW for sustainability provides tailored solutions to assist clients in achieving their specific sustainability goals.
IMPACT NOW for sustainability consolidates SGS’s sustainability offerings under four strategic pillars: climate, circularity, nature and ESG assurance. Through these pillars, SGS offers trusted compliance solutions that directly help businesses address the key environmental and social challenges impacting the planet:
· Climate – greenhouse gas (GHG) emission reductions and the energy transition towards net-zero
· Circularity – reducing plastic pollution and enabling circularity through sustainable design, material optimization, recyclability and effective waste management
· Nature – environmental risk management, including contamination (PFAS, microplastics, etc.), to curb biodiversity loss and ecosystem damage
· ESG assurance – aligning skills and strategy with regulatory and corporate objectives requirements to ensure accountability, accuracy and consistency in ESG disclosures
With new regulations mandating ESG disclosures and a growing emphasis on sustainable processes and products, IMPACT NOW for sustainability provides a comprehensive platform where businesses can find the tailored solutions they need to enhance sustainability and meet compliance requirements
The choice of Barcelona is not by chance. It is part of a structured expansion project in the Spanish market. Featuring a unique and immersive design, the new Bata shop on Las Ramblas houses a vertical botanical garden installation by Quo Artis, an international art and science foundation based in Barcelona. Composed of 100% natural, sustainably preserved and fully recyclable plants, this space is much more than a temporary shop: it is an anticipation of the green path started over a year ago by Bata, which has created a specific team dedicated to sustainability. A commitment that will see its full expression in 2025 with the launch of the brand’s first sustainable collection. This opening is a further sign of the commitment of BATA, which for 130 years has been able to interpret the needs of consumers and looks to the future with a solid business ethic, aiming at quality products, accessible to all.
Luis Zugno has been appointed chair of Leather Naturally Management Board, the international organization that promotes the use of responsibly made, certified leather. “It is a great honor to receive this assignment” Zugno commented. “I want to extend my heartfelt thanks to our supporting members, Management Board, and Supervisory Council for their unwavering support in maintaining Leather Naturally as the leading educational resource organization for leather”, Zugno, who has a Ph.D. in tanning research and more than 30 years of experience in the leather industry, succeeds Debbie Burton, communications director of the Leather Working Group, who stepped down after reaching the end of her six-year term as a board member. Zugno joined Leather Naturally’s board in 2020 as leader of the Education Team. In this role, he not only oversaw the production of the valuable fact sheets and related supporting articles, but also created the Guide to Modern Leather Making, an easy-to-understand, freely accessible resource for anyone to use. He currently works as Global Innovation Manager for chemical manufacturer Buckman International. He also holds the position of executive secretary of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS), of which he has also served as president.
Outgoing president, Debbie Burton, stressed the importance of the work done so far by recalling the last major achievement. “The power of the industry coming together to better educate people about leather has never been better exemplified than in the work that Leather Naturally undertook, in collaboration with Leather Working Group to update bovine leather in the Higg MSI. This work does not come for free, maintaining and updating the resources also carries a cost and our work is not done. As outgoing Chair I urge anyone who has not already done so, to pledge their support through membership of this dedicated organization.”
As of 1 January 2025, Sistema Moda Italia (Smi) – the federation representing the textile, clothing and fashion sector – will change its name and become Confindustria Moda together with Confindustria Accessori Moda, which represents all the sectors of the leather supply chain: footwear, leather goods, fur, tanning.
The announcement was made on 19 November at a press conference entitled ‘Sinergie in Movimento: Il sistema di rappresentanza della moda italiana cambia le proprie denominazioni’ (Moving Synergies: The Italian fashion representation system changes its name) at the Milan headquarters of the Confindustria associations involved. Present at the event were Vincenzo Marinese, Vice-President for Organisation and Relations with Territories and Categories of Confindustria; Giovanna Ceolini, Founder and Sole Director of ‘Parabiago Collezioni srl’ since 1999, former President of Assocalzaturifici and newly appointed President of Confindustria Accessori Moda, who succeeded Annarita Pilotti; and Sergio Tamborini, President of Sistema Moda Italia.
The reorganisation is in line with Confindustria’s objectives of supporting and representing industrial sectors while respecting their specificities and strategic value, at the same time consolidating the link with the parent company. The two Federations will continue to work together on shared themes, with common goals and visions, while respecting the protection of the individual sectoral identities that distinguish them.
The production system represented by the two Federations generates in its totality a turnover of almost 100 billion euros, employing more than 500,000 workers and including more than 50,000 enterprises. It is also worth mentioning that our country is the leading exporter of textiles, fashion, accessories in the EU (and the 2nd in the world after China), with a trade balance exceeding 26 billion euros in 2023.
‘I am proud to call myself Confindustria Accessori Moda,’ stressed Giovanna Ceolini, ‘because as Confindustria I am part of a system, of that important backbone that is Italian manufacturing, while the name Accessori Moda underlines the importance of the accessory as an element that “makes” fashion and makes us recognised in the world in terms of Made in Italy, generating wealth in the country and attracting tourism to Italy.
‘Confindustria is the hat under which we all stand and recognise ourselves in certain precise directions. Giving up the name Smi after some 20 years underlines the added value of being under the single name of Confindustria. Fashion is not sequins sequins and fashion shows, but is instead a system of companies and important numbers, which generates work and wealth in the country,’ Sergio Tamborini pointed out.
‘It is necessary to focus on our know-how, because ‘Made in Italy’ means ‘done well’. Our country has achieved an exceptional result in the export sector, also thanks to the uniqueness of Made in Italy products, taking fourth place worldwide. Despite this, there are sectors, which represent our excellence, that must be strengthened. Representation, in this context, becomes essential with support for companies, with an active policy for growth, with the combination of fiscal development policies in favour of a sector that is strategic for us,’ added Vincenzo Marinese.
Global luxury consumers have progressively reduced their spending on luxury goods in light of a highly uncertain macroeconomic environment and the sustained price increases that have occurred over the past two years. The combination of these factors led to the personal luxury goods market entering a slowdown for the first time since the Great Recession (excluding the Covid period), with an estimated 2% contraction year-on-year, taking into account current exchange rates. This contraction-majorly relevant for Generation Z, whose ‘advocacy’ towards luxury brands continues to decline-has led to a reduction in the luxury customer base of around 50 million over the past two years. At the same time, more high-end consumers are continuing to increase their relevance in the sector, although they are beginning to perceive less exclusivity.
‘Despite macroeconomic complexities, luxury spending has remained remarkably stable, driven by consumers‘ desire for premium experiences,’ said Claudia D’Arpizio, Senior Partner and Global Head of Fashion & Luxury at Bain & Company. ‘However, the loss of 50 million consumers in the last two years signals that brands need to review their value propositions. In order to win back customers, particularly younger ones, it is necessary to focus on creativity and broaden conversations. At the same time, brands will need to continue to focus on their top customers, surprising them with human and personalised interactions. For all customers, it will be crucial to focus on personalisation, using technology to achieve scale.”
Claudia D’Arpizio
Less appeal for leather goods and shoes
The beauty sector continues to perform well, especially in the fragrance segment, which captures the spending of those who want to indulge in ‘little indulgences.’ At the same time, the eyewear sector is also experiencing a positive momentum, with high-end brands on the rise and consumers increasingly attracted by the increased creativity on offer.
Jewellery is maintaining a good growth rate, especially driven by the high-end jewellery segment, and the particularly positive performance of the US market.
In contrast, watches, leather goods and footwear are slowing down, with consumers becoming more selective in their purchases and progressively shifting towards cheaper alternatives, although small leather accessories and entry-level items continue to be of interest to Generation Z. The second-hand market is also gaining ground, with particular interest in jewellery, and clothes and leather goods from a vintage perspective.
Distribution: outlets outperform shops
Although traffic in physical shops is generally in marked decline, the outlet channel is outperforming expectations, driven by consumers’ search for better value for money. Digital channels, meanwhile, are entering a phase of normalisation after the pandemic peaks and subsequent slowdown.
Geographical dynamics
The United States shows a gradual improvement in growth rates. Japan is confirmed as the growth leader in the global luxury market, thanks to favourable exchange rates and an increase in tourist spending throughout 2024. On the contrary, in China, the market has gone through a period of substantial decline, due to weak consumer confidence and the increase in Chinese tourist flows to Japan, Europe, and to a lesser extent to other Asian countries. The Old Continent is experiencing a period of solid but normalising growth, fuelled mainly by the influx of tourists to the cities and resorts of southern Europe. Emerging markets – Latin America, India, South-East Asia and Africa – represent new, potential growth areas.
The Future
According to Federica Levato, Senior Partner and EMEA Leader Fashion & Luxury at Bain & Company, ‘It will be crucial to rediscover the true essence of the brand and, at the same time, embrace the founding pillars on which luxury has always been based: craftsmanship, creativity, personalisation of the shopping experience and the intimate relationship with the consumer, leveraging technological tools, such as artificial intelligence, to ensure perfect execution.
