Arsutoria Magazine

IFABA’s many faces of sustainability

Among the company’s choices already made in favour of the environment, of primary importance is the installation of a photovoltaic system at the Parabiago headquarters, which makes it possible to considerably reduce emissions, with 97,500 kilos of CO2 saved and a total power output of 183 kWp: numbers that translate into an environmental benefit comparable to the planting of 1772 trees. Even more recent is the plant in Pieve a Nievole, with a total power output of 80 kWp, also capable of significantly reducing emissions, with 42,640 kilos of CO2 saved per year and an environmental benefit comparable to the planting of 776 trees; the Fossò site in Veneto, soon to be opened, is also preparing to become IFABA’s new flagship, especially in terms of sustainability.

In addition to what has already been mentioned, there is the installation of a new plastic moulding machine in Parabiago – which will make machine stoppages close to zero, reducing energy consumption on an annual basis by 28% compared to the previous decommissioned plant, – and the overhaul of the numerical control lathes present in all the factories of the industrial group, which will significantly reduce energy requirements thanks to the use of innovative software capable of controlling and optimising consumption in real time.

Discarded lasts for shoe factories will be recovered to be shredded and sent for recovery and recycling to finally be reused by the last makers as raw material for new lasts: this joint effort will maximise the recovery of materials, minimising the use of resources and promoting circularity.

An agreement with the company Omnisyst also ensures the company monitors CO2 savings. Thus, the industrial group based in Parabiago (MI) – which has two branches in Italy and one in Romania – is preparing to obtain ISO 9001 certification on quality management systems, ISO 14001 on environmental management systems and ISO 45001 on safety in the workplace in the course of 2024.

NATIVA™ Cotton

NATIVA™ Cotton accelerates the shift towards a more sustainable production system, from farm to brand. Made in Europe, NATIVA™ Cotton is a one-stop solution that certifies cotton growing, sourcing and production under the NATIVA™ Regenerative Program. The NATIVA™ Regenerative Agriculture Program is a robust system with a triple impact based on scientific research and backed by data.

NATIVA™’s Regenerative Agriculture Program protects the land by bettering soil quality, safeguards crops by ensuring soil health, and supports farmers and local communities by improving their livelihoods. These multidisciplinary efforts further result in greater water quality and increased CO2 capturing levels. Measured over a five-year period, NATIVA™ aims to achieve a 20% increase of organic materials (natural nutrients) in the soil through its regenerative agricultural practices. This is supported by a 25% reduction in pesticides, with an eventual goal of zero pesticide use throughout time, and the effective eradication of tillage.

“As part of NATIVA™’s goals of positively impacting the supply chain for a more sustainable system, we wanted to expand our reach from wool into new fibers. With cotton playing such a significant role in the fashion industry, it was only natural to extend our programme to this iconic fiber.” said Maria Estrada, NATIVA™ Global Director.

NATIVA™ Regenerative Cotton’s founding partner, Nafpaktos Textile Industry SA, is based in Greece. Every step from the cultivation to the fiber processing and yarn making takes place in Greece – resulting in a farm to fiber cycle fully accomplished within the EU and complying with EU standards in labour and environmental conservation rights. Among partner brands NATIVA we find Stella McCartney, Gucci, Pangaia.


Companies interview Lineapelle S/S 2025

The 103rd edition of Lineapelle, which took place at Fiera Milano Rho from 20 to 22 February, registered a substantially positive result and growth compared to both editions of the previous year, with a total of 25,376 trade operators attending to find out about the novelties for the Spring Summer 2025 fashion season from 1,167 exhibitors.

The participation of foreign operators was significant (39% of the total), with a prevalence of buyers from France, Spain, Germany, Great Britain, Turkey, the United States and China.

As usual, the trade fair experience was enriched by various events and initiatives, starting with the six Lineapelle Designers Edition fashion shows.

Very positive feedback also for the first edition of Lineapelle Interiors / Leather Duets, a business culture exhibition that staged a sequence of installations, each of which represented an exclusive leather design project shared between a made-in-Italy leather manufacturer and a furniture company.

There was also great involvement for In The Making Atto II (an interconnected and multidisciplinary space where visitors were able to take part in a series of craft workshops using leather) and for the second edition of the Science Based Fashion Talks, opportunities for debate and sharing that aim to discover and define green strategies for the entire supply chain.

This edition was also particularly lively in terms of the novelties proposed by the exhibitors, which were characterised by strong innovative research and a clear propensity to diversify markets, proposals and destinations.

We itervated the companies present and asked them to tell us about their proposals for S/S 2025.

52nd AICC National Conference in Chiampo on May 17th

It will be held on Friday, May 17, 2024, at the Municipal Auditorium in Chiampo (VI) the
52nd AICC National Conference entitled “New Frontiers in Leather Production.”
Below is the program of the proceedings

PROGRAM

17.00 Opening Greetings and Start of Work

17.20 Hyperfunctional Polycarbodiimide Crosslinkers for Aqueous Leather Finishes
Speakers: Ralph Günther Blach and Fabio Lupi – Stahl

17.40 Dry milling as a Control Tool
Speaker: Giulio Galiotto – Erretre


18.00 Biocides Migration Study
Speaker: Luca Ramadori – Arco

18.20 New Finishing Technology with Release Paper for Frosted and Full Grain Leathers
Speaker: Gianni Maitan – Gemata

18.40 Use of Bio-Based Products – Evaluation and LCA Assessment for the Future of Leather Production
Speaker: Riccardo Pasquale – GSC

19.00 Closing and Greetings

20.00 Social Dinner at La Pieve Restaurant – Via Pieve, 79 – 36072 Chiampo (VI)

Registration is welcome to be done at www.aicc.it by 14/05/2024.
Attendance at the meeting is free, but reserved for AICC members in good standing for the year 2023 and/or the year 2024, students as well as invited guests.
The conference will be preceded by the Ordinary Members’ Meeting, which will be held from 3:30 to 4:30 pm.

GSC GROUP participates in ALCA Conference in the U.S.

For the first time, GSC Group will join the prestigious ALCA (American Leather Chemists Association) Convention scheduled in Hershey, Pennsylvania, May 21-24 by presenting an innovative study that draws inspiration from the findings of IULTCS 2022.
The GSC Group session will begin with a presentation by Riccardo Pasquale, PhD, at 11:30 a.m. on Thursday, May 23. The full title of the research is “The future of leather production based on chemicals evaluation in conjunction with modern tools for higher performing processes and lower environmental impact.”
The study focuses on the tanning technologies currently available on the market focusing on the evaluation of their impacts through the use of an LCA study, as well as the group’s initiatives to produce high Bio-Based products for less impactful leathers.
To learn more click on the  LINK

EECHA apologizes for misleading leather claims

Following the complaint of the European Leather (COTANCE) and the European Footwear (CEC) Industries, the European Chemical Agency (ECHA) formally apologised for wrongly conveying, through their communications channels, the impression that leather goods or footwear have possible cancer-causing properties because of Cr VI.
This ECHA’s deceptive communication was pinpointed last 15th of March in a joint letter from COTANCE and CEC. They denounced an infographic on the ECHA web page of its “Preventing Cancer” campaign and the corresponding LinkedIn Post for being inaccurate and misleading, reminding the Agency: “that Chromium VI is not used for tanning leather and that Chromium tanning is not the only tanning method in the sector. Yet, the infographic gives the impression that leather automatically contains Chromium VI, and that this presence is likely to cause cancer. This creates unjustified concerns in consumers, which may take distance from leather articles”.
The letter further clarified that the actual EU restriction on Chromium VI in leather regards its potential skin sensitising properties, not its carcinogenicity.
The formal response from ECHA came on April 9, which stated: “We [ECHA] apologise for this error and have corrected the infographic, as soon as our attention was drawn to it, to reflect the actual situation. We have also removed the LinkedIn post referred to in your letter”.

While COTANCE and CEC appreciate ECHA’s swift action to erase inaccurate and misleading information conveyed by its channels to the public, the leather and footwear industries express their profound disappointment over the Agency’s failure to fully accept responsibility for the harm inflicted upon these sectors. The decision to delete a post, which by then had already gone viral, does little to mend the reputation of our unjustly maligned industries, nor does it aid EU citizens in understanding what was wrong.
“It is a good thing that ECHA rectified, but we regret that they did not fully capture our concern; they have managed the issue like a simple “editorial mistake”. We believe the harm done to the reputation and appeal of the leather value chain would need something more.” says Carmen Arias, Secretary General of CEC.
In this sense, 


COTANCE and CEC understand that further ECHA action should be forthcoming, such as running a formal corrigendum for repairing the unintended consequences of its actions. “This would evidence much more ECHA’s claimed commitment to accuracy, transparency, and accountability” adds Gustavo González-Quijano, Secretary General of COTANCE.

PERFORMANCE DAYS celebrates a great edition

The trade fair for sustainable sourcing of textiles and functional accessories, which took place on 20 and 21 March at the Munich Exhibition Centre, ended with great success. Almost 440 exhibitors from various countries were present, offering the approximately 3,000 trade visitors a wide range of innovative products and solutions. The number of visitors exceeded all expectations, reaching a new record, and making PERFORMANCE DAYS 2024 one of the most significant events in the industry.

“We are thrilled with the positive response and lively interest in this year’s PERFORMANCE DAYS trade fair,” commented CEO Marco Weichert. “The record turnout is proof of the relevance and importance of this fair for the entire textile industry. We are proud to provide a platform that drives innovation and shapes the future of textile design.”

The two new platforms were very successful: the Reality Zone, with workshops where new solutions and approaches were discussed in collaboration with Accelerating Circularity, the New York-based non-profit organisation that acts as a catalyst for new circular supply chains and business models to convert used textiles into common raw materials. Technology Hub, a space for the exchange of innovative technologies and tools that support sustainable processes.

With regard to footwear specifically, the Footwear Area and the dedicated Forum were the protagonists: ‘The atmosphere in the Footwear Area was simply wonderful,’ commented Nina Conrad, co-initiator of the Area. It was great to see the conversations between exhibitors and the collaborations that were fostered. The results of this collaboration were also evident in the forum, which attracted a large audience thanks to the 3D-printed shoe we presented.”

Positive feedback also for the Expert Talks programme, with the focus topic ‘Beyond Bottles – the Future of Polyester’ on a highly topical subject, as well as for the Sustainability Lounge, which followed the principle of learning, participation, exchange and networking. “Sustainability only works as a team: mutual exchange and learning are essential,” commented organiser Anna Rodewald of GreenroomVoice. The two days showed once again how important it is for the industry to join forces, look ahead, pursue a common goal and initiate new projects together’.

All that remains is to look forward to the next edition of the PERFORMANCE DAYS, which will take place on 23 and 24 October 2024 in Munich at Messe München in Halls A1 and A2.

Forum 
Footwear Area
Expert Talks


BLOOM: from algae, a sustainable future for the footwear industry

Algix/BLOOM is a US-based company (Meridian, MS) that provides solutions to improve the sustainability of the footwear, automotive and shipbuilding industries. BLOOM’s mission is to use algae to reduce air and water pollution and create thermoplastic compounds that have a lower environmental impact without compromising performance.

Indeed, algae that grow in excess in rivers, lakes and seas, once removed, are usually incinerated, releasing CO2 into the air, or end up in landfills, where they macerate and release methane. BLOOM has succeeded in incorporating them into soles or other foams and materials (EVA, TR, TPE, rubber) by mixing them with different polymers. In this case, the CO2 is encapsulated by the algae and no longer released into the environment, and starting with 30% BLOOM inserted into the sole, one can achieve carbon neutrality.

Why algae and not other products? “Because algae are among the largest absorbers of CO2 and emit oxygen through photosynthesis. In addition, seaweed does not act as a filler – with a consequent increase in hardness and loss of performance – but gives functionality to the sole itself,’ says Stefano Ciarpella, Account Manager Italy.

BLOOM® Sustainable Materials currently collaborates with more than 150 well-known brands worldwide and is spreading very rapidly in the market, helping the footwear industry to replace fossil fuel-based materials – present in various parts of footwear (e.g. insoles, midsoles, soles) – with algae.

The BLOOM system is able to work with the existing supply chain and does not require changes to the production process or any other assets (e.g. moulds). Everything is organised to facilitate the use of BLOOM’s sustainable material within already operational processes, providing companies and brands with technical support if needed in all factories in Europe, Asia and the USA.

BLOOM was recently admitted to the UN Decade on Ecosystem Restoration programme (www.decadeonrestoration.org): a project open to private sector entities – profit and non-profit – that actively develop environmental restoration programmes. BLOOM’s activity perfectly reflects the principles of this programme, helping to restore ecosystems by collecting algae that proliferate in excess due to the eutrophication of waters (a problem increasingly covered by the media) and using them to replace part of the fossil-based materials.

“Becoming part of this project required us to go through an evaluation process through which we had to prove that we were actually carrying out environmental remediation. We can now say that we produce probably the only footwear material that actively contributes to environmental remediation,’ Ciarpella proudly concludes.

Photo: Stefano Ciarpella, Stephan Slunitschek at Performance Days in Munich


Cirql rTPU30 by OrthoLite® midsole: fully Recyclable, made with 30% recycled TPU

OrthoLite®, the global leader of comfort and performance footwear insoles and the company behind Cirql™, a sustainable materials solutions provider for the global footwear industry, unveils a new midsole foam called Cirql rTPU30. This brand new patented innovation is made with 30-percent GRS-certified post-consumer recycled TPU material and manufactured through a chemical-free, supercritical foaming process. With 16 granted patents and additional patents pending worldwide for its 30% recycled injection foam, Cirql rTPU30 is a scalable and fully recyclable midsole solution that helps footwear brands to reach their climate and sustainability product goals.

The Cirql rTPU30 material has been tested by third-party labs and passes the essential tests for midsole specs. Cirql rTPU30 will be will be available to footwear brands in Q2 2024 and offered with the option of a co-molded TPU outsole which will remove the current bonding process and make it a glueless, single material bottom unit. Alternatively, Cirql’s midsole foam innovations can also be conventionally bonded to all outsoles on the market today.

“Cirql represents not only an entirely new product and patented foaming process for OrthoLite, it also is an opportunity to minimize waste and pollution on a wide scale across all footwear,” said Matt Thwaites, Vice President and General Manager of Cirql.

Fully recyclable Cirql rTPU30, along with the fully biodegradable and compostable range of products, round out the Cirql materials solutions for addressing product end of life cycles.

Attilio Imperiali X Amerigo Vespucci, a story of excellence and tradition

The beating heart of world fashion beats in Italy, a land of craftsmanship excellence and timeless sophistication. In this narrative of style and identity, the Amerigo Vespucci School Ship and Segre & Schieppati fabrics – exclusive to Attilio Imperiali – stand as tangible symbols of this extraordinary heritage. Their story is woven of passion, commitment and dedication to perfection. The Nave Scuola Amerigo Vespucci, dating back to 1913, embodies excellence in its purest form, plying the world’s oceans with timeless skill and grace. Similarly, Segre & Schieppati fabrics, born in 1897, carry on a legacy of pure Italian craftsmanship, passed down through generations. The combination of the Italian-ness of these two icons is a tribute to the tradition, innovation and passion that characterise Made in Italy. Every thread, every seam and every fabric tells a story of craftsmanship and commitment to uncompromising quality.