The Veneto tanning group Dani announces that it has signed the Manifesto ‘Business for People and Society’, the text addressed to companies and drafted by the UN Global Compact Network Italy, the local network of the UN Global Compact, the world’s largest corporate sustainability initiative. By signing the Manifesto, Dani pledges to strengthen the role of the Social dimension in its business strategies to generate long-term value also in the supply chain and in the communities where it operates.
“We are truly proud to have joined the Manifesto promoted by the United Nations, a step that adds a further piece to the important commitments we have made in terms of social sustainability,” comments Giancarlo Dani, President and CEO of Dani. “Efficient people management is an essential factor for Dani that allows us not only to continue a journey towards sustainability that we have been undertaking for years, but also to guarantee our company practices that promote values and contribute to the continuous improvement of our business system”.
The UN Global Compact is a special initiative of the UN Secretary-General mandated to guide and support the global business community in promoting the goals and values of the United Nations through responsible business practices. With more than 20,000 companies and over 3,500 non-profit signatories based in 167 countries and 62 local networks, the UN Global Compact is the largest corporate sustainability initiative in the world. The UN Global Compact operates in Italy through the UN Global Compact Network Italia (UNGCN Italia), an organisation established as a Foundation in 2013 after ten years of activity as an informal group. The Italian Network works first and foremost to promote the UN Global Compact and its Ten Principles through institutional dialogue, knowledge production and the dissemination of good sustainability practices. It is also committed to advancing the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) set by the United Nations for 2030. More than 600 Italian companies and non-profit organisations participate in the UN Global Compact.
Stahl launches new Stahl Ymagine® edge paint
Stahl, a leading provider of speciality coatings and treatments for flexible materials, has announced the latest addition to its edge paint portfolio: a high-performance, bio-based edge paint for luxury accessories.
This latest addition to Stahl’s edge paint portfolio has been developed with environmentally conscious consumers in mind, who increasingly seek more sustainable fashion choices. The Stahl Ymagine® range combines Stahl’s edge paint expertise with the latest innovations in renewable raw materials.
Stahl Ymagine® addresses the current lack of bio-based solutions in the edge paint category while continuing to meet the needs of technically demanding brands and manufacturers. It offers the same excellent performance as Stahl’s other premium edge paint products, including the following benefits:
– Excellent ageing and hydrolysis resistance
– High solids content, requiring fewer coats
– Suitable for leather and synthetics
– ZDHC and REACH compliant
– Over 2,000 colours developed and colour matching capabilities as per customer requests
Georges Fonseca (Global Business Manager Shoe Finish & Leather Care at Stahl) said: “Stahl Ymagine® is the result of years of intensive research and development, during which it showed exceptional performance under a wide range of conditions. And with its bio-based formulation, it demonstrates Stahl’s tangible progress on our ESG Roadmap to 2030. This high-quality edge paint product is a great source of pride for our team. It feels great and is kind to the planet, delivering on both facets of our purpose, ‘Touching lives, for a better world’ ‘’.
The range is part of the Stahl Ympact® family of renewable carbon solutions – a key part of Stahl’s efforts to de-fossilise the coatings value chain. All Stahl Ympact® products contain between 25% and 70% renewable carbon content, so customers can be confident that by choosing a Stahl Ympact® product they are reducing their dependence on fossil-based raw materials.
Mono: transcend the limits of time
The brand’s keywords are comfort, which, combined with refined design and the use of premium materials, results in footwear that is designed to last and go beyond the short-lived fashions of the moment. Each season, Mono’s designers challenge classic shapes and styles, aiming to inspire and satisfy the needs of outdoor enthusiasts and contribute to a more sustainable world. Mono shoes are made from the finest Italian leathers, sourced from certified tanneries, combined with rubber soles that offer superior traction on wet surfaces, while the Micro sole allows for maximum walking flexibility. It is no coincidence that, despite its short existence, Mono is already a success story, a brand that is loved and followed by planet-loving ‘urban nomads’ all over the world. Mono also partners with One Tree Planted to plant a tree for every item sold.
More foreign buyers but fewer Italians at Pitti Uomo no. 106
“The first figures on the final attendance indicate that after last June’s big increase of 20% over 2022, foreign buyers registered a slight increase to 5,300. The confirmation of international buyers – those who make the market and indicate the direction – are important indicators for exhibitors, they give confidence and perspective. The number of Italian turnouts, on the other hand, does not confirm the 2023 results, they are down by 7%, but I have to say that this was widely expected, considering the closure of so many shops in the last two or three years and the lacklustre trend in domestic consumption. The idea circulating among operators and commentators is that – counting on a relative easing of geopolitical tensions and stimuli to the economy by economic and monetary institutions – we will have to wait until 2025 for a decisive recovery”: the words of Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, give a clear picture of the latest edition of the Florentine exhibition dedicated to high-end fashion for men.
The figures recorded a total of 11,500 buyers, with the foreign share reaching 46 per cent. In total, visitors to the Fortezza exceeded 15,000.
Therefore, to be noted – alongside the confirmation of France, the United States and the UK -, the growth of Central-Northern Europe (Germany at +15% with about 680 buyers), very good performance of Holland, Austria, Belgium and the Baltic countries), the surprising increase of Eastern Europe (Poland, Czech Republic, Serbia, Hungary, Bulgaria), the consolidation of the Asian recovery (also for newcomers such as Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand and Mongolia) and the exploit of key markets such as Turkey and Kazakhstan.
The difficulties were mainly registered on the domestic market, with weak consumption dynamics. We all need to reflect and understand how to open a new phase of growth and confidence,” stressed Antonio De Matteis, president of Pitti Immagine: entrepreneurial and labour representatives, the Italian government, European institutions… The Pitti team is inexhaustible in research and scouting, providing services to operators, devising special events and communicating. But all of us, starting with myself, know how far we still have to go”.
An edition of Pitti Uomo that also featured a rich calendar of events, in the Fortezza and in the city, attended by over 1,000 journalists and media operators who came to Florence. Starting with Paul Smith’s special opening event, Guest Designer Marine Serre’s fashion show, Plan C’s debut menswear presentation and Pierre-Louis Mascia’s first ever fashion show. Internationality was also a distinctive feature of the many collaborations and special projects – from Scandinavian Manifesto to J Quality and the new China Wave – successfully presented by Pitti Immagine in the Fortezza.
U.S. Polo Assn.: dynamic spirit
U.S. Polo Assn. has no shortage of new proposals even on the trainer front, which has always been the brand’s flagship model. Among the novelties for HIM presented in June at Pitti Uomo is the contemporary elegance of Caius, a must-have for casual lovers thanks to a combination of raffia fabric and leather and PU details. The thick sole, with transparent rubber detailing, offers comfort and stability for an optimal fit without losing originality. The new entry is also Jake, which enriches the traditional silhouette with contemporary elements thanks to vibrant colour accents. Made from a combination of nylon and mesh, it offers breathability and lightness, while real suede details add a premium touch and micro-injected finishes enhance the structure of the shoe and enhance its aesthetics.
The ‘New Standard’ by Seishou
“I designed this summer line based on my New Standard style, balancing classic and modern, elegant and casual.” – says designer Yuko Matsuzaki who, together with Masaharu Ikeda, created the brand that combines Japanese design – famous for its comfortable, essential and functional approach – and high-quality Italian craftsmanship. It is no coincidence that Seishou means ‘singing in unison’. At Pitti Uomo in June, the brand, present for the second time, proposed a collection of comfortable footwear, specially researched in their essential design and structure, conceived to be worn on any occasion.
In particular, three new models were proposed. Cruz, a moccasin available for both men and women, characterised by the softness of the leathers. Santa, the summer version of an ankle boot with a “French” sole, available for men and women. Clara, a summer reinterpretation of the classic moccasin.
Drop in turnover in the first quarter of 2024
The scenario that emerges from the latest report produced by the Confindustria Moda Study Centre for Assocalzaturifici highlights a sharp slowdown in the Italian footwear sector in the first quarter of 2024, with a contraction in both exports (-9.7% in value and -10.3% in pairs) and turnover (-10.1%), as well as a drop in purchases by Italian families (-1.6% in quantity and -0.7% in expenditure).
“The customary survey conducted in May among our associates,” says Giovanna Ceolini, President of Assocalzaturifici, “showed a drop in turnover for 68% of the sample, with a not insignificant portion of associates (18%) reporting a contraction of even more than -20%. Moreover, the sentiment of entrepreneurs does not show confidence’.
The report shows that, as far as exports are concerned (to which 85% of domestic production is destined), 51.9 million pairs were sold in the first quarter of 2024 (6 million fewer than in the same months of last year), worth 3.17 billion euro. After a resilient January (at least in terms of value: +1.4%), the trend became more penalising in February (-6.2%), to the point of registering a slump in the order of -20% in March, both in terms of value and pairs.
The analysis by product type shows declines, both in quantity and value, for all sectors. In particular, that of footwear with leather uppers, first in importance with an incidence of 65% on foreign sales in value, shows -8.6% in volume with -7% in value over the first 3 months of 2023.
Among the destinations, as in 2023, the EU markets showed less unfavourable trends (-4.1% in value) than the non-EU markets (down by -15% overall).
In the EU, France and Spain, despite falling in quantity, grew in value (+1.7% and +8.5% respectively in Q1 2023). France, whose figures also include the return flows of production carried out in Italy on behalf of third parties for transalpine luxury brands, confirmed its position as the top destination, both in terms of value and volume (down -4.3%). Exports to Germany fell by more than -10% and to Belgium by -20% in value (with -37.6% in quantity).
Outside the EU, what stands out first of all is the further halving (-53.4%, with -36.7% in volume) of direct flows to Switzerland, which has always been a traditional logistic-distribution hub for fashion multinationals, and has dropped to fourth place in value destinations: most of the transit in the Swiss hubs has been replaced by direct shipments to end markets.
The growth in exports in value to the Far East (+4.3%) and the Middle East (+14.1%) – where the presence of designer labels is traditionally stronger – the only macro-areas to experience an increase compared to 2023, should also be read in the light of these dynamics. In the Far East, in particular, China (+10.8% in value and +17.8% in quantity) and Hong Kong (+26% in value and +4.9% in volume, but still far from the pre-Covid 2019 pairs) performed well. Japan held up (-0.9%, +3.1% in quantity), while South Korea recorded sharp declines (in the region of -30%).
On the American continent, similar reductions in value affected both the United States (-8.8%) and Canada (-7.2%). The United Kingdom still performed poorly (-6.1% in value).
As regards the countries of the former Soviet bloc, there was a drop in sales in Russia (-22.4% in value and -17.8% in pairs), while Ukraine recovered in value (+21%), but against a -11% drop in volume. On the other hand, the favourable trend continues in Kazakhstan (+4.8% in value and +12.2% in quantity).
Finally, as regards the demographics of companies, at the end of March the number of active companies in Italy dropped to 3,490 (with a negative balance of -74 units, between industry and handicrafts, compared to December 2023, equal to -2.1%), flanked by a -0.8% drop in employees.
Italian leather goods: 2024 starts uphill
According to the Economic Outlook prepared by the Confindustria Moda Study Centre, 2024 promises to be a difficult year for Italian leather goods. Data for the first quarter of 2024, in fact, confirm the extreme weakness of demand (first and foremost international demand), with a further squeeze on orders and consequent repercussions on companies’ production activity.
The most significant datum is the -18.1% shown by the ISTAT index of industrial production for the item ‘Travel and leather goods’ in the first 3 months of the year compared to the corresponding period of 2023, which explains the reason for the new massive recourse to wage integration tools and casts more than a shadow on the sales trend in the following months.
The indications gathered last May among associated leather goods entrepreneurs through the customary sample survey describe an equally unfavourable picture, estimating a -12% average overall drop in turnover compared to January-March 2023 among the sample companies.
Taking a closer look at the ISTAT data available to date, it emerges that, in the first 3 months of the year, leather goods were sold abroad for 2.66 billion euro, or -11.8%, with a decrease also in KG (-4.8%). Examination by destination shows better performance for EU outlets (which limit the drop in value on January-March 2023 to -0.9%) than for non-EU markets (down instead by -16.3% overall). Among the European Union partners, France – the first destination, with a share of total Italian exports of around 16%, whose figures also include products made for French luxury brands – shows a contraction of -4.9% (much more severe in KG: -27%). Germany held its own (ranked 6th in value, but 1st in KG), which, against a timid -0.4% in value, recorded +8.2% in volume. Finally, all the other main EU members increased in value – and in several cases by double digits -: Spain, Poland, the Netherlands, Austria and Greece.
Among non-EU markets, the collapse of Switzerland stands out (-76% in value on January-March 2023 and -54.4% in KG), the traditional logistical platform of fashion multinationals: a figure linked to a change in the distribution strategies of fashion labels, which have replaced transit through Swiss hubs with direct shipment to end markets.
In the Far East – where leather goods exports remained on the whole more or less stable in the first part of the year (-0.5%) -, growth in value involved Japan (+3.5%), Taiwan (+8.7%), Thailand (+15.6%), Singapore (+3.3%) and above all Hong Kong (+29.7%, which significantly reduced the gap with 2019). On the other hand, the area’s two main markets declined: China (-4.8%) and South Korea (-9.4%), which occupy 3rd and 4th place in the overall export ranking. In the Middle East, there was a leap in the Arab Emirates (+75% approximately) and excellent performance in Qatar (+12.7%); in both cases, these increases were accompanied by non-marginal declines in KG. North America struggled (-0.3% in value in the United States and -9.5% in Canada) although, thanks to the excellent results achieved in 2022, the comparison with 2019 levels puts current values more than 85% above then.
In terms of merchandise, both exports of leather products (-14.8%) and those of substitute goods (-4.8%) were down in value, although they increased in KG (+13.7%). Reductions of more than -10% affected the two main merchandise items, namely handbags (which account for over 70% of foreign sales in value), down -12.2% compared to the first 3 months of 2023, and small leather goods (-16.3%). Among the remaining types, belts also lost ground, -12.7%, while luggage and travel goods were stable (+0.2%).
Imports in the first three months of the current year recorded a decrease of -7.5% in value, with a -1.2% in KG.
The sector trade balance, while still largely in surplus at EUR 1.79 billion, was down -13.8% on January-March 2023.
On the domestic front, the ISTAT index of the value of retail sales in Italy (referring to “leather goods + footwear”) showed a weak increase in the first 3 months (+1.4%), which nevertheless leaves the current levels still below the -1.3% of those (already largely unsatisfactory because marked by a continuous slow erosion in previous years) of the same pre-pandemic 2019 period.
The above indications, relating to the results achieved in the first quarter and the expectations for the second quarter, lead to an estimate for the first 6 months of the year of a drop in turnover of more than -9% and lengthen the timeframe for the recovery.
Le suddette indicazioni, relative ai risultati conseguiti nel primo trimestre e alle attese per il secondo, fanno stimare per i primi 6 mesi dell’anno una flessione del fatturato superiore al -9% e allungano i tempi della ripartenza.
Losanga and Tokyo star models for SS25 Lotto Leggenda
The new Losanga line celebrates the unforgettable moments of sport, while Tokyo represents the sporting heritage of running, taking inspiration from the running shoe models of the 1980s, reinterpreted today in a contemporary key. Each model recounts a memorable event in Lotto’s sporting history, for example the Losanga ’76 is a tribute to the Italian Davis Cup victory of that year.
The Tokyo model, on the other hand, is inspired by the running world of the 1980s and the vibrant Japanese atmosphere of the city whose name they bear. The presence of Japanese characters lends a unique and special touch to the line with its classic and timeless flavour. Tokyo Ginza Pure features a voluminous sole and a classic design that capture the essence of vintage sportswear, while the ton sur ton nuances of grey and green are perfect for an urban chic look
The strong point of both the Losanga and Tokyo collections is the attention to detail and the careful choice of exclusive, high-quality materials, such as light nappa leather and suede. Worn unlined, they provide an enveloping sensation of comfort and softness, ideal for a fresh, summery style with a timeless aesthetic.
Newport H2 by KEEN
KEEN’s most renowned sandal traces its origins back to the first model created by the company, the Newport, designed to offer optimal protection on the toe and therefore chosen in particular by those who like to venture outdoors. Today, Newport is offered in an “H2” version, because it is designed for use in an aquatic environment or in wet conditions. The upper, made of PFC-free polyester, is in line with the brand’s sustainability values: it is water-repellent, easily washable and quick-drying. The model features KEEN.PROTECT, the iconic toe protection. Comfort is guaranteed thanks to the EVA footbed and midsole, which provide lightweight cushioning throughout the day. The non-marking rubber outsole provides perfect traction and grip on the ground even on wet ground.