Arsutoria Studio

Chiara Mastrotto at WomenX Impact 2024

WomenX Impact is not just an event, but a concrete point of reference community in the world of women’s empowerment. The fourth edition, which took place in Milan from 21 to 23 November, involved the participants through talks, workshops and moments of confrontation.

Reviewing her own entrepreneurial experience, Chiara Mastrotto, President of Gruppo Mastrotto, emphasised how professionalism and the ability to step out of the comfort zone have been decisive in guiding a company transformation, centred on innovation and sustainability, founded on well-defined values.

‘We are a company that has learnt to open up over the years, welcoming diversity to the point of making it a founding element,’ she explained. ’For us, what matters is that we have created an environment governed by meritocracy, where women, as well as men, are judged on the basis of their preparation and can embark on successful paths.’

During her speech, Chiara Mastrotto shared her vision on how the tanning industry and the fashion sector should grow from a female employment point of view, especially in verrtice positions. A path that Gruppo Mastrotto is very clear about, as the data show.

‘While on a national level the tanning sector only sees 20% of women employed, Gruppo Mastrotto stands out with an overall percentage of 30% female employees, reaching 50% in clerical roles and 60% in managerial positions, with perfect gender parity within the Board of Directors. Numbers that are not linked to particular programmes, but the result of the company culture and values’.

Finally, an important message was addressed to young women aspiring to leadership roles: be courageous, set challenging goals, and keep learning. ‘What I feel like saying to women today is to come prepared, living leadership as women and not thinking that you have to work like a man would.’

Ecomondo 2024: the greatest edition ever

Ecomondo 2024, the international event dedicated to the green and circular economy organised by the Italian Exhibition Group and which closed on 8 November at the Fiera di Rimini Exhibition Centre, was the largest edition ever: +5% in total attendance compared to the previous edition (and +4% from abroad), 1,620 exhibitor brands that occupied 166,000 square metres in the exhibition centre, which was enlarged with two new pavilions to meet the growing demand for attendance from companies (+10% of exhibitors compared to 2023). A meeting place for the technological innovation of companies, the world of research, industry professionals and international delegations who attended the more than 200 conferences and workshops scheduled, also accessible online thanks to the GreentechInsights b2b platform.

ECOMONDO, INTERNATIONAL HUB OF SUSTAINABILITY

The figures confirm Ecomondo’s role as a major international hub for the green and circular economy, thanks to the synergy with the ICE Agency and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation (MAECI), in collaboration with IEG’s global network of regional advisors and also the Emilia-Romagna Region. The number of foreign operators continues to grow, mainly from the Euro-Mediterranean area and in particular from Germany Spain, Romania, France, Croatia, Greece, Serbia, Egypt Turkey and Tunisia. International operators from 121 countries, 72 sector associations and institutions at global level, 650 buyers from 65 countries, in particular North Africa, Europe, North America, Latin America, with a significant increase in buyers from Asia. A system of relations and encounters that led to 3,500 business matching sessions during the four days of the fair. The results collected at the end of the event confirm the value of the network of relations that Ecomondo has been nurturing for years, acting as a true ‘community catalyst’ for the green economy at an international level.

Innovation was the fil rouge that strongly characterised Ecomondo 2024, declined in the phenomenon of start-ups, but also of exhibiting brands, as well as with the Lorenzo Cagnoni Prize for Green Innovation, awarded to start-ups that presented cutting-edge solutions and products. Eco-innovation by companies and public administrations was also rewarded with the Sustainable Development Award, promoted by the Foundation for Sustainable Development and Ecomondo.

THE STATE OF THE INTERNATIONAL GREEN TRANSITION

More than 200 appointments spread over the four days of the exhibition offered a complete overview of the latest trends and challenges in the field of sustainability on an international level: from the Circular Economy to the Bio-Economy, from the Water & Blue Economy to climate change monitoring and sustainable finance. A rich programme of events coordinated by Ecomondo’s Technical-Scientific Committee, chaired by Prof. Fabio Fava of the University of Bologna.

The States General of the Green Economy, whose 13th edition also opened this year’s Ecomondo, framed these topics within a framework of national scenario data: reduction of CO₂ emissions by over 6%, Italy a leading country in the circular economy (3.6 euros of GDP for every kg of resource consumed), over 44% of electricity production from renewable sources on total generation, growing national organic production, but also open challenges, such as the progressive increase in land consumption and the objective of sustainable mobility.

The next appointment with Ecomondo is from 4 to 7 November 2025, again at the Rimini Trade Fair.


Technology will be the bridge between sustainable ambition and concrete results

Like every year, the International ESG Day was held on 30 November, a day aimed at promoting the principles of environmental sustainability, social responsibility and ethical governance, an opportunity to reflect on the importance of measuring and improving performance in these areas, promoting dialogue among stakeholders and encouraging the sharing of best practices and useful tools for developing effective ESG strategies. On this occasion, an alarming fact emerged: 47% of companies still use the ‘old’ spreadsheets to manage ESG data, a practice that can generate errors, difficulties in aggregating information and operational inefficiencies, compromising regulatory compliance and the overall effectiveness of the process, despite the fact that 83% express great confidence in their sustainability reporting capabilities. ‘Building a credible ESG programme requires verifiable, accurate and high-level data that meets the needs of stakeholders and regulators,’ comments Bruno Natoli, CEO of Mia-FinTech.  A goal that becomes difficult to achieve when most ESG data is stored in disconnected and separate reporting systems or even spreadsheets’.

Therefore, the use of technology to collect, analyse, report and ensure the accuracy of verifiable ESG data becomes crucial. It is no coincidence that the global ESG software market is projected to reach 2.7 billion by 2032, with a compound annual growth rate of 14.3% between 2024 and 2032 and an increase of approximately 222% over 9 years, according to a very recent report by Global Market Insights. This growth is mainly driven by increasing pressure related, on the one hand, to the focus of companies and investors on sustainability and, on the other hand, to regulatory compliance, especially in Europe, where the ESG software market is strongly influenced by legislation such as the Sustainable Finance Disclosure Regulation (SFDR) and the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), which oblige companies to implement detailed and transparent ESG reporting practices, stimulating the growth in demand for advanced technology solutions.

‘Legacy systems make it difficult to address these challenges because they lack the flexibility and integration capabilities required to collect and manage data from multiple sources. Today, in order to overcome information silos and facilitate effective communication with stakeholders, companies need scalable and rapid solutions that allow sustainability data to be aggregated in a centralised manner. This approach not only improves operational efficiency, but also ensures greater transparency and the ability to respond in a timely manner to the needs of regulators and investors,’ Natoli concludes.

Bruno Natoli, CEO Mia-FinTech

UNPAC, Pierluigi Braggion is the new president designate

Pushing on collaboration within the supply chain, this was the main theme of the reports displayed at UNPAC’s Ordinary Assembly 2024, held last Nov. 26 in the PO.TE.CO. conference hall in Santa Croce sull’Arno. On the same occasion, the Italian producers of tanning auxiliaries provided for the renewal of the Board of Directors in office for the next two years, from which emerged the name of the new president-designate: Pierluigi Braggion of Corichem.

The guests
The proceedings opened with greetings from Fabrizio Nuti, president of UNIC-Concerie Italiane, and Roberto Lupi, vice president of the Santa Croce Tanners’ Association, who also spoke on behalf of the Ponte a Egola Tanners’ Consortium. In their speeches a spur to the consolidation of a spirit of aggregation of the leather supply chain, to bring to Europe a unified voice representing tanneries, chemists, mechanics and manufacturers. This was followed by speeches by: Mario Serrini, Assomac Councilor; Gionata Moroni, Director ASSA Association of Contract Manufacturing; Franca Nuti, President AICC Italian Leather Chemists Association; and Valerio Talarico, Director PO.TE.CO. UNPAC Secretary Maurizio Maggioni read a message of good wishes and cooperation sent by Riccardo Boschetti, president of the Veneto Leather District.
All speakers emphasized the need to join forces to be more incisive, both in training professional figures and in directing the technological development of the sector.

Supply chain collaboration is increasingly essential

Outgoing UNPAC President Marco Frediani also reiterated the importance of collaborating and consolidating a greater spirit of belonging of all supply chain forces, contextualizing the current difficult and articulated economic situation affecting the sector also with international geopolitical tensions. His message focused on the need to invest in research, innovation, development, sustainability, quality, resilience, and flexibility to promote efficiency and growth of supply chain companies, adopting individual and system strategies that help resist market uncertainty, positioning companies competitively toward a tomorrow of low-carbon and high-tech companies and products.
The floor was then passed to outgoing Vice President Pierluigi Braggion, who well summarized the association activities completed, emphasizing the need for the new Executive to give continuity to the good things achieved so far. The Venetian entrepreneur urged everyone to consider the Association as a container of ideas, a driving force for more effective interaction between and with members, to help achieve a common strategy that alone companies could not, and sometimes would not know how to, address.
This was followed by a presentation, given by Christian Baio and Arianna Civiletti of SPIN 360, on the importance of the agreement reached with UNPAC for the definition of a system LCA, useful to characterize and certify the impact of tanning auxiliaries.
In conclusion, the UNPAC 2024 Assembly delivered a strong and clear message: supply chain collaboration is the key to meeting future challenges and ensuring the competitiveness and sustainability of the Italian tanning sector.

The private session
The assembly continued with the private session reserved for members only, which saw the budget report given by Francesco Lapi, Board member with responsibility for treasury, who emphasized, in addition to mere figures, the importance of companies’ contribution to activities supporting standardization and voluntary certifications, and not least the support to the populations of the flooded areas of Emilia-Romagna with the liberality granted in 2023. Ilaria Lotti, head of the association’s Supervisory Board, then reported on the control of the proper management of activities and the results achieved, in compliance with the organizational and management model.

The subsequent vote by the delegates of the member companies then decreed the composition of the new Board of Directors, in office for the biennium 2025-26.

The news UNPAC Board of Directors

Braggion Pierluigi– CORICHEM Srl, president designate
Meucci Andrea
– DERMACOLOR Srl, vice president designate
Vantin Laura
– CHIMICA VEMAR Srl, designated treasurer
Annunziata Stefania– REPICO Spa
Cazzola Gianmario– C.G.R.D. Srl
Cisco Diego– GSC GROUP Spa
Frediani Marco– KLF TECNOKIMICA Srl
Knebel Cesar– CODYECO Spa
Lapi Francesco– FGL INTERNATIONAL Spa
Montecalvo Andrea– ALANCHIM Srl Poles Eric– SILVATEAM Spa
Rosati Claudio– LMF BIOCHIMICA Spa

From left: Maurizio Maggioni, Roberto Lupi, Marco Frediani, Pierluigi Braggion, Fabrizio Nuti
The presentation of plaques to some of the councilors from the previous term. From right:: Andrea Meucci, Massimo Rinaldi, Diego Cisco, Laura Vantin, Francesco Lapi, Marco-Frediani, Pierluigi Braggion, Andrea Montecalvo

Assomac, Mauro Bergozza of Bergi S.p.A. is the new president

On Nov. 29, 2024, during its General Assembly meeting at Mudec – Museum of Cultures in Milan, Assomac, the confindustrial association representing Italian manufacturers of tannery, footwear and leather goods machinery, elected Mauro Bergozza, Assomac’s current vice president and CEO of Bergi S.p.A., as its new president, succeeding Maria Vittoria Brustia, who has led the association in recent years. Confirmed as vice-president is Cristiano Paccagnella, general manager of Omac s.r.l., while Massimo Angeleri, CEO of Officina Meccanica Angeleri s.r.l., was named new vice-president.

Born in Arzignano (Vicenza) in 1962, Mauro Bergozza is the second generation at the helm of Bergi S.p.A., a family business specializing in the production of tannery machinery. Bergozza is mainly involved in commercial and financial management, leading with his brothers a business that combines tradition and innovation. Active in Assomac since 1996, he has held various roles, up to vice president of the association.


“We live in an era of great challenges for the manufacturing sector, in which networking and creating a strong representation are imperative necessities,” said Mauro Bergozza, thanking for his appointment. “It is essential to strengthen the technological identity of our sector, investing in research, innovation and sustainability. Only in this way we will be able to fully enhance Made in Italy and successfully face international competition. We will work to develop common standards that promote the quality and safety of our technologies, while continuing to build strategic alliances, both at the national and European levels. Our goal is a future in which member companies can distinguish themselves through excellence and ability to transition to more advanced production models.”

Connection and inclusiveness:  It’s… DONE!

Founded by Stefania Gnutti, a young and visionary entrepreneur, DONE! is a brand strongly connected to its cultural context and contemporary lifestyles, the result of a long period of observation of people’s habits in the most dynamic urban contexts. The brand name derives from the founder’s personal mantra, ‘well done is better than well said’. a commitment to doing things well.

The official presentation took place last 17 October at the headquarters in Via Pietro Colletta 69 in Milan with the event IT’S… DONE! Cocktail & DJ Set, at which the new collection was unveiled, and in particular the >East+West< backpack: an ideal of connection and inclusiveness. Made of 80% recycled nylon, it is a versatile accessory that adapts perfectly to a busy life, transforming itself into a handbag, shoulder bag, shoulder bag and luggage case. Its multiple functionalities, such as its removable shoulder straps, trolley-compatible sliding harness and side strap attachments, make it the ideal travel companion. Its interior is made of orange-coloured nylon to make its contents more visible, with a 13’ computer compartment, mesh pocket with internal key ring, and removable multi-purpose clutch.

DONE!, through its innovative, contemporary, inclusive and sustainable products, its image, crisp – as its founder likes to call it – and direct, expresses an immediate, strong and recognisable identity, an expression of a balance between design, functionality and style.


Coats Footwear: three new structural components for sustainable footwear

Coats Footwear has launched three innovative structural components designed to support footwear brands in their quest for sustainable excellence and which are part of the brand’s RHENOPRINT™ range.

These include the RP Evolve heel counter and RP Flow and RP Wave toe puffs, designed to improve performance standards while maximising product quality.

The RP Evolve heel counter further reinforces Coats Footwear’s dedication to sustainability. This eco-friendly, zero-waste solution is made from 70% recycled materials, such as R-PET and R-TPU. Completely free of virgin polyester and GRS certified, RP Evolve can help manufacturers reduce the carbon footprint of their footwear, without sacrificing any of the features required for high performance.

The RP Flow toe puff, on the other hand, is a versatile solution ideal for meeting the high demands of sports and performance footwear. Made with 70 per cent recycled content, including R-TPU and acrylic glass R, RP Flow has a zero-waste production process, while its waterproof and durability properties make it suitable for high-performance applications such as running shoes. Finally, GRS certification offers the assurance of a product with excellent sustainability credentials.

The RP Wave toe puff has also been developed to meet the growing need for sustainable solutions and incorporates 70 per cent recycled materials, designed to minimise environmental impact at every stage of the process, GRS certification and at the same time offers the medium to high stiffness required for high pressure and high temperature applications.


Camper and the sustainable commitment

The famous footwear brand founded in 1975 on the island of Majorca, Spain, has long been committed to sustainability with reuse and circularity projects. These include ReCamper, an initiative that aims to extend the life of Camper shoes with services that include cleaning, repairing or converting them into other footwear. In this way, they are prevented from ending up in landfills because, of the 23 billion pairs of shoes produced each year, 95% end up like that.

ReWalk is a collection of used and second-hand shoes that have been cleaned, disinfected and repaired to make them ready to walk again and ReCrafted a unique collection made from recycled Camper shoes.

For its collections, Camper uses certified and innovative natural materials, leather produced using environmentally responsible practices and certified by the Leather Working Group, recycled materials that minimise environmental impact and favouring simple construction with minimal materials, glues and stitching to reduce waste and CO2 emissions while increasing performance and comfort.

A lot was said at FIMAST about sustainability

FIMAST, held at Fiera di Vicenza from Nov. 6 to 8, is a B2B event that shines a spotlight on technological innovations in the hosiery and sock, 3D and seamless footwear, as well as technical and sportswear supply chains, bringing together major industry players, brands and protagonists of the production districts for yarns, production machinery, technologies and finished product.

A context harbinger of some interesting presentations of projects capable of interpreting the theme of sustainability in an innovative way.

 

Like the eco-sustainable sneakers made using recycled tires and biobased by-products of agricultural activities – derived from corn, apples, mycelium and grapes – of the ID.EIGHT project, born from the meeting between creative designer Dong Seon Lee and the brand’s co-founder Giuliana Borzillo.

 

Or like the elegant ballerina shoe noteworthy as the first handcrafted shoe designed by a generative artificial intelligence questioned about market trends and models best suited for the luxury market. The initiative is by Peron Shoes, a historic footwear industry on the Riviera del Brenta. A reality with 50 years of experience, representing the union between the best Italian footwear tradition and new technologies, able to develop shoes from recycled and fully recyclable materials.

An artisanal Italian shoe, but designed by artificial intelligence and notarized, at every stage of processing, by blockchain technology. It is a hitherto unprecedented combination that has given birth to “First handmade shoe designed by AI,” the project created in collaboration with EZ Lab, an innovative Padua-based company specializing in blockchain technology that through its Made in Block platform enhances and protects Made in Italy productions.  The pair of ballerinas, which was already presented in early 2024 at the World AI Cannes Festival, an international event on artificial intelligence issues, houses an NFC tag inside the sole that, when in contact with a smartphone, allows consumers to access the Digital Product Passport to discover all the information they want about sustainability, traceability, origin and company history. “These ballerinas are the first product in a new line of shoes designed by artificial intelligence for our Via della Paglia brand,” explains Alberto Masenadore, manager of Peron Shoes. “In today’s market, there is an increasing number of conscious consumers who favor products for which it is possible to know the origin in addition to the quality and safety of the product itself. For this reason, we decided to register our footwear with Blockchain, which provides certain information, to guarantee every single sale of our products. Our goal is to share with customers, in a transparent way, all information about the origin and authenticity of our items.”


 

Finally, a moment of discussion and inspiration for the future of the sports industry. During the talk organized by ASSOSPORT, entitled “Footwear and Tubular Knitting: Innovations and Challenges for the Sports Sector,” key topics such as sustainability and innovation for the footwear world were explored.

With contributions from Armando Cietto of AC Studio and Davide Slongo of SIDI, the possibilities and challenges related to the development of tubular knitting shoes were discussed, with a focus on the outdoor and bike sectors.

From the discussion, it emerged how tubular knitting applied to the construction of a shoe (a sock that is joined to a sole) is indeed a technology with great advantages: construction is very easy since neither cutting nor stitching are needed, processes that are typically critical, particularly in the current historical moment that suffers from a severe shortage of skilled and experienced labor. “Knit is undoubtedly the right way to make the footwear construction process increasingly automated,” the speakers stressed. There is no shortage of weaknesses: flexibility, wear and tear, and water repellency are some of the issues yet to be ironed out. Not to mention the little collaboration between sports brands and those who manufacture machines and yarns.

Edoardo Iannuzzi, Chief of Innovation di ACBC

For Edoardo Iannuzzi, ACBC‘s Chief of Innovation, tubular knit construction also has advantages: “Four years ago we decided to invest in this construction process together with Missoni because tubular knit produces no waste and reduces the number of processes with consequent savings in energy and logistics, as it is not necessary to outsource some processes. It allows for process optimization.” And ACBC has believed in it so much that it has developed together with BASF an innovative material that Iannuzzi previewed just at FIMAST and that will be launched on the market in the coming months: “We will offer companies the basic building blocks to make fabrics and knits in TPU of excellent quality, so much so that it resembles polyester in terms of breathability and touch. A very durable, fully recyclable yarn that can be used to make knit soles and uppers. A shoe, therefore, monomaterial and therefore entirely recyclable at the end of its life.”

ACBC also does not overlook the financial sustainability of the project: “For 1 euro of recycling cost, a material worth 3 euros is produced, with no waste or rejects.”

Soles & Heels trends Autumn/Winter ’25-26

Designers are prioritizing sustainable materials and innovative construction techniques, with a strong emphasis on versatile shoe designs that can adapt to multiple environments. Block heels and cleated soles are emerging as key trends, offering both aesthetic appeal and practical support