The 25th edition of SHOES & LEATHER – VIETNAM, the International Footwear and Leather Fair – which includes the 25th edition of the IFLE International Footwear and Leather Products Fair – welcomed 569 exhibitors from 24 countries and regions last July, covering an area of 20,000 square metres. The event showcased the entire supply chain – from materials, machinery and smart technologies to finished footwear, bags and luggage – making it a dynamic and comprehensive platform for industry professionals to explore the latest developments, products and technologies in the footwear and leather sectors. In terms of visitors, it attracted 11,583 professionals from 63 countries and regions. With a wide range of innovative products and solutions, the event provided a comprehensive platform for networking, sourcing and industry knowledge exchange, reinforcing its role as a benchmark for the global footwear and leather community.
The next edition of the event is scheduled for 8-10 July 2026 at the Saigon Exhibition & Convention Centre (SECC).
Stahl, the global leader in speciality coatings for flexible materials, announces today the launch of its Premium Leather Design Collection for Autumn & Winter 2027, a dynamic 70‑page catalogue designed for experts in automotive, apparel & accessories, and interior design industries.
A sensory journey in print
Featuring real, touchable leather swatches, the Autumn & Winter 2027 Collection Book is more than a source of inspiration – it’s a tangible showcase of Stahl’s expertise in specialty coatings for flexible materials.
“The Design Collection Book reveals how our invisible innovations enhance the durability, feel, and aesthetic of the materials people touch every day. From automotive interiors and fashion accessories to luxury goods, our coatings protect and elevate products – creating truly sensational experiences. When people touch our products, we touch their lives. This is the perceivable impact we have on the consumer experience, and it’s the essence of our purpose: Touching lives, for a better world” reads the presentation note.
The Autumn & Winter 2027 Collection explores four distinct trend universes – Nexus, Tribu, Pomp, and Anomaly – each built around emotion, experience, and bold creative expression.
The comprehensive catalogue offers:
* Over 70 pages of premium leather designs and palette inspirations
* Real leather samples to experience texture and finish firsthand
* Insightful Pantone-aligned colour stories and trend forecasting
* Sustainable product solutions tailored to diverse application
How to access the collection
Designers and product developers are invited to DOWNLOAD the catalogue via Stahl’s dedicated webpage and explore premium finishes and trend insights. For direct sample handling, book a meeting with Stahl to explore real-leather swatchbooks tailored to project needs.
According to the study, the Italian sector has gone through alternating phases: after growing by +0.4% in the period 2019-2023, it recorded a significant contraction of -9.4% in 2023-2024. However, historical analysis of the last 160 years (1861-2022) shows the extraordinary resilience of Made in Italy, which has been able to overcome global crises and momentous economic transformations.
The survey highlights a fundamental paradigm shift: uncertainty should not be seen as a limitation, but as a competitive advantage. According to the analysis, it becomes a limitation when a company is too dependent on a single market, lacks risk plans or diversified supply chains, or when human capital is unable to recognise the signs of change.
It becomes an advantage when the company invests in resilience through diversified markets and smart inventories, exploits flexibility and creativity, distinctive features of the Italian model, and uses uncertainty to enhance the reliability of Made in Italy compared to suppliers more exposed to geopolitical risks.
The analysis also highlighted the importance of the Italy 2030 Plan, a strategic project based on a cultural transformation that moves ‘From Resistance to Vision, From Resilience to Ambition’, structured around four pillars: Vision, Challenges, Game Changers and Priorities. In particular, the strategy is divided into six concrete actions, defined as “reasons for future success”: acting and planning with a systemic approach, not alone; leveraging new technologies; rethinking organisational models; growing by exporting value; promoting Made in Italy; innovating the business model.
These actions must be viewed in a context where Italy is the world’s third largest exporter of footwear, with particular strength in high value-added segments. The geographical diversification of exports to EU countries4 underlines the strength of European trade relations, while growth in emerging markets opens up new opportunities.
The study concludes with a key message: ‘Improving the lives of those who choose Made in Italy’. An approach focused on value and quality of life for consumers is therefore the key to transforming the current difficult period into a springboard for the future.
“The US administration’s decision to set tariffs at 15% on imports from the European Union, which also includes products from the companies we represent, is the “lesser evil” we can face. Although less punitive than the initial proposals for even higher tariffs, this decision will still have an overall negative impact on the fashion accessories sector: we must remember that the weakening of the dollar is already a contributing factor. The risk is that it will slow down investment, employment and growth at a time when the economic and geopolitical situation is already fragile.” – said Giovanna Ceolini, President of Confindustria Accessori Moda.
Tariffs on imports from the European Union are a significant burden on the sector, significantly affecting company margins and the competitiveness of Italian companies in the United States, one of the key markets for Made in Italy exports.
The fashion accessories sector – which includes footwear, leather goods, tanning and fur – exported almost €3 billion worth of goods to the United States in 2024. This performance, despite a slight decline of 3.5% compared to 2023, demonstrates the strength of Italian exports.
Organized and presented by HR Asia, the Best Companies to Work for in Asia Awards evaluates and honors organizations with best practices in human resources, high levels of employee engagement and excellent workplace cultures. OrthoLite Vietnam (OVN) successfully completed multiple rigorous assessments conducted across all levels of company leadership, exceeding the comprehensive criteria required to achieve the highest distinction—first place.
“We couldn’t be prouder of our exceptional team and leadership in Vietnam,” said Glenn Barrett, founder and CEO of OrthoLite.
The OVN team comprises over 1,000 employees who work in OrthoLite’s state-of-the-art facility in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. OVN’s automation, growing lean lines and attention to the company’s best manufacturing for less-impactful manufacturing, combine to make it a leading manufacturing facility for OrthoLite.
We imagine a world where production waste is not a problem, but a precious resource. Thanks to RM Soles, this vision is transformed into reality, through a granulation and devulcanisation process that allows the rubber to be recovered and reused, giving life to new ecological soles. Available in compositions with between 5% and 35% recycled rubber, these soles not only respect the environment, but also offer attractive aesthetics and high performance. RM Soles’ care for the environment is ISO 14021 certified, a guarantee of compliance with international sustainability standards. Working with recognised bodies such as Bureau Veritas, the company ensures that each product not only meets quality and safety standards, but also promotes corporate social responsibility. The company also takes a holistic approach to sustainability, using renewable energy sources such as photovoltaic panels, making a concrete commitment to a green economy.
Since its establishment, Industrie Chimiche Forestali has integrated sustainability into its business model – based on a combination of internal research (23 R&D staff and 4 laboratories), sustainable production and a strong customer focus – together with a balanced ESG approach, extending its commitment beyond emissions reduction and energy efficiency to include corporate culture, transparency and responsibility throughout the entire supply chain.
Among the green objectives achieved in recent years, we would like to highlight the following: in 2022, conversion to UNI EN ISO 45001 and the installation of a photovoltaic system, and the following year, the publication of the Sustainability Manifesto. Then, in 2025, the achievement of ISCC PLUS certification, as well as the extension of UNI EN ISO14001, ISO45001 and EMAS at the Robecchetto plant.
ESG TARGETS FOR 2030
– At least 50% of ICF’s European footwear manufacturing customers must use water-based adhesives
– 60% of adhesives produced by ICF must be low-impact (solvent-free or water-based).
– All fabrics produced in Europe must contain at least 50% recycled, biobased or biodegradable materials.
– Identification and introduction of biobased raw materials in adhesive formulations for the automotive and flexible packaging sectors.
SDGs
ICF has identified three key SDGs for which it has already taken significant action to achieve some of the related targets:
– SDG 8 – Decent work and economic growth: ICF has invested in Industry 4.0 technologies, improving productivity and energy efficiency. It has promoted training to reduce youth unemployment and protected workers’ rights through its Code of Ethics and Model 231.
– SDG 12 – Responsible consumption and production: It has adopted certified sustainable processes, reduced waste (e.g. solvent recovery, recycled packaging), developed green adhesives and improved transparency by reporting on its environmental performance.
– SDG 15 – Life on Land: It has ensured a sustainable supply chain through the use of certified raw materials (GRS, GOTS, BCI, OK Bio Based), contributing to the conservation of ecosystems.
TFL announced its participation in ACLE 2025, which will take place from September 3rd to 5th at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre (Hall E2-E03). With over 20 years of experience and presence in China, TFL invites industry professionals and valued customers to discover the latest chemical trends, innovations, and technologies.
At ACLE 2025, TFL will present an exclusive collection of high-quality leathers. These have been designed using premium chemicals and expert advice. They are available in the fashion colors predicted for the Autumn/Winter 2026/27 season.
Beyond the traditional uses for shoes and leather goods, TFL will also show how these seasonal colors and materials can be seamlessly integrated into automotive leather interiors, blending style and functionality in this sector.
“If you are looking for genuine replacement syntans with extremely low or zero BPS/BPF content that still have the required tanning power, look no further. With our expanded TANIGAN® range, you can stay one step ahead of any legal or brand-specific restrictions and produce leather with a bisphenol content below the detection limit of 10 ppm” they explain from the chemical company.
“We also focus on lightweight leather, which is in demand because it saves energy in transportation and makes upholstery, shoe uppers and clothing more comfortable. Visit us to find out how careful selection of TFL products and application methods can reduce the weight of leather by around 20%”.
For leather finishing, TFL is introducing RODA® Line: a special product range developed for state-of-the-art transfer coating technology. This offers an environmentally conscious alternative to conventional leather finishes, from fashion to high performance articles, with excellent reproducibility.
“Please visit us at ACLE to see how these advances meet the highest performance standards, comply with ever-evolving regulations and help you to remain at the forefront of industry trends” they conclude from TFL.
The EcoVadis certification rewards companies that integrate sustainability and corporate social responsibility (CSR) principles into their processes and management models in an advanced way. Based on recognised international standards such as the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI), the United Nations Global Compact and ISO 26000, the methodology assesses 21 indicators divided into four key areas: environment, labour and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement.
Founded in 2013 by a team of professionals with extensive experience in the footwear industry, JV International has made research, innovation and sustainability the cornerstones of its development model. A strategic partner of Michelin for the design, manufacture and marketing of MICHELIN soles, the company stands out for its cross-disciplinary and highly specialised approach.
Its activities are divided into three business units: JVI-soles by MICHELIN, NexX4™ and JVI-Engineering, each focused on high value-added technical and design solutions in different market segments.
For JV International, sustainability is not an afterthought, but a true operating culture that guides every stage of the supply chain: from the choice of materials to design, from production to after-sales support. This daily commitment translates into concrete and measurable actions.
“At JV International, we work to ensure innovation and sustainability in the footwear industry. Compliance with ESG criteria is not simply a requirement for us, but a strategic choice that guides every business decision,” says Ambrogio Merlo, CEO of JV International.
The new General Manager Luca Piani adds: “It is a source of great pride to join a team that is among the elite 5% of companies assessed by EcoVadis. This prestigious recognition encourages us to continue with even greater determination on this path.”
With offices in Tavernerio and Verona, JV International continues to grow, establishing itself as a global benchmark for sustainable, high-performance and reliable solutions in the footwear industry.
“The basic idea, which originated from Japan’s great manufacturing and engineering tradition, is that the product is the most eloquent manifestation, the most concrete interface between materials engineering and industrial processes and the world of consumption. It is the starting point for all conversation about sustainable innovation. Innovation has always started with the product, and the sustainable revolution will start with the product.”
This is how Professor Alessandro Bruni of the University of Pisa sums up the essence of the Life I’m-Tan project, presented on July 17 in Vinci (Florence) after four years of research and development. The event was much more than a simple presentation of results: it was a manifesto for the future of vegetable-tanned leather. A future in which sustainability, performance, and industrial scalability are not antagonists.
A hundred-year-old chestnut tree and a piece of leather: two symbols of the tanning tradition that have been speaking to each other for centuries but which, thanks to science, can now finally truly understand each other. The LIFE I’m-Tan project – an acronym for “Innovative Modified Tannins” – has demonstrated that nature, when supported by technology and industrial vision, can compete with the most high-performance chemical solutions while keeping its green soul intact.
The project – funded by the European Union with € 1.2 million out of a total budget of € 2.3 million – involved several partners: Crossing, a spin-off of Ca’ Foscari University in Venice, developed the chemistry of the processes; CRCF designed and managed the pilot plant; Conceria INCAS tested industrial production; while the Aquarno Consortium analyzed the environmental impact of wastewater.
The result: the development of a new generation of chemically modified natural tannins (CMNT) that promise to change the rules of the game in leather tanning.
TANNINS, BUT SMARTER
The project, which started in September 2021 and, as mentioned, is funded by the European Union under the LIFE program (LIFE20 ENV/IT/000759), had a clear objective: to improve vegetable tanning and retanning processes through a new generation of chemically modified natural tannins (CMNT) derived from chestnut and quebracho.
At the heart of the innovation is a two-stage process, as explained by Andrea Cassani, BU Innovation Manager at Silvateam: “First, the natural extracts are purified, then chemically modified according to the principles of green chemistry. The result? More reactive, more stable, and higher-performing tannins. They are able to bind better to the collagen in the leather, reduce the organic load in wastewater, and guarantee a much wider color palette than traditional vegetable tannins.”
For those in the industry, this is no small feat. The limitations of vegetable tanning – the impact of wastewater, the stiffness of the leather, and its poor compatibility with products such as sneakers and car interiors – have always been the Achilles’ heel of a technology perceived as noble but obsolete.
FROM THEORY TO THE FACTORY: CONCRETE RESULTS
LIFE I’m-Tan has not remained a laboratory exercise. The project has seen the creation of a pilot plant capable of producing hundreds of kilograms of CMNT per week and the industrial-scale prototyping of five leather items, now ready for use in footwear and leather goods collections: Parma, Corvara, Water, Kendo MF, and Oxide. All tested on 2,500 raw hides from New Zealand and processed by INCAS tannery machinery.
The mechanical and chemical tests speak for themselves: CMNT-treated hides offer superior performance to traditional vegetable alternatives and, in some cases, even come close to chrome-tanned hides. Above all, however, they significantly reduce environmental impact. The environmental impact results of LIFE l’m-Tan leathers are excellent, showing significantly lower values than the benchmarks, with reductions in Global Warming Potential (GWP) of between 6% and 25%. Tanning operations such as pickling, tanning, and post-tanning are strongly influenced by the use of chemicals. The type and quantity of substances used play a crucial role in determining the environmental profile of the final product.
In the case of leather footwear on synthetic-chrome hybrid, all LCA impact categories show significant reductions, ranging from 20% to 78% compared to the benchmark. The effect of chemical consumption, a parameter used to calculate GWP, has been reduced by 36%.
Piero Rosati – INCAS
CLEANER WATER, CLEANER LEATHER
One of the critical issues for every tannery is wastewater management. LIFE I’m-Tan has monitored key parameters by comparing traditional tanning baths with CMNT-based ones. The results are encouraging: the new tannins reduce COD by up to 19% and significantly improve biodegradability.
The combined strategy is also interesting: CMNT1, with a high concentration, is more effective in terms of fixation and chemical load reduction; CMNT2, which is lighter, offers greater color flexibility and superior biodegradability. The synergy between the two allows for an optimal balance between aesthetics, performance, and environmental impact.
CIRCULAR ECONOMY: FROM BY-PRODUCTS TO ADDED VALUE
The scientific soundness of the project is also evident in the words of Gustavo Defeo, Scientific Director of CTC ARS Tinctoria: “The concept of Good Leather should allow us to leave no trace in terms of production waste, creating versatile leather articles with different end-of-life options and promoting eco-design-oriented material choices. The figures for I’m-Tan tannins are moving in this direction.”
One of the most interesting insights of the project was the valorization of waste: both that generated in the production of tannins and that derived from leather scraps. Ongoing tests show that these materials can be converted into organic fertilizers or other high-value products, with a view to achieving concrete circularity, not just declared.
As proof of this, Life Cycle Costing (LCC) has shown that, for a small surcharge (30-40 cents/kg), CMNTs reduce overall costs thanks to lower dosages, simplified treatments, and more efficient wastewater management.
TOWARDS INDUSTRY: IS THE SUPPLY CHAIN READY?
The Vinci event was not just a scientific celebration. Above all, it was a forum for discussion between players in the supply chain: from chemical companies to tanneries, from industry associations to major fashion and design brands.
Francesco Sapienza, Sustainable Materials & Data Manager at Kering, confirmed the group’s interest in sustainable alternatives: “We are redesigning our business to continue to stimulate and increase sustainability in the future, while contributing to the transformation of the luxury sector and doing our part to overcome the important social and environmental challenges of our generation.” He continued: “Since 2019, we have been working towards an increasingly sustainable supply chain and are committed to fundamental research into the evolution of materials for an increasingly sustainable impact.”
Poltrona Frau also confirms its sustainability-oriented strategy linked to leather. Daniele Gardini, R&D Leather Manager, explains: “We will never abandon leather, which is sustainable by nature and, thanks to its qualities, ensures the durability of our products (another sustainable aspect). As a company, we have decided to continuously optimize our production processes to reduce our environmental impact. This will be our focus over the next 5 years. Leather will always remain the Prince of our materials.“
From the world of footwear, Paolo Bruno, Strategic Advisor at Garsport, offers a critical but optimistic perspective: “Today, brands that understand the drive and opportunity for differentiation that a sustainable business model can give them in the market can truly think about educating the end consumer. And that is exactly what is needed. It is brands that must offer sustainable products to their customers and, in doing so, lead them towards more conscious consumption.”
To try to sum up: the market is ready, but bold decisions are needed. Sustainability – if real, measurable, and scalable – is no longer a cost but a competitive advantage.
Alessandra Taccon (Silvateam), Francesco Sapienza (Kering), Gustavo Defeo (CTC ARS Tinctoria), Alessandro Bruni (University of Pisa), Paolo Bruno (Garsport), Daniele Gardini (Poltrona Frau), Samuele Giovando (CRCF)
CONSUMER PERCEPTION: EDUCATING ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY
The Social LCA analysis conducted as part of the project revealed interesting aspects of consumer perception. Sixty-six percent of participants consider sustainability important or very important in their purchasing decisions, and many say they are willing to pay up to 10% more for ethical and environmentally friendly products.
However, there is still a knowledge gap about the environmental benefits of leather, which requires more effective and transparent communication strategies from brands.
AND NOW?
Now that the project is complete, here is a possible roadmap. The CMNT process has been engineered to achieve industrial production of 1,700 tons per year. Activities will be extended to the three main Italian tanning districts (Arzignano, Santa Croce, Solofra) with the aim of making the technology replicable and transferable to other European tanneries.
But that’s not all: CMNTs are already showing potential applications in sectors such as agriculture, animal nutrition, food & beverage… A silent but radical revolution, starting from a chestnut forest and ending up in a luxury car or biodegradable packaging.
Fulvia Bacchi – UNIC e Lineapelle
THE FUTURE? IT’S ALREADY HERE.
True sustainability is not made up of proclamations, but of data, processes, and industrial choices. LIFE I’m-Tan has shown that it is possible to innovate without sacrificing the identity of leather. That it is possible to go beyond the rhetoric of “natural” to build high-performance, clean, and replicable solutions.
As Fulvia Bacchi of UNIC and Lineapelle pointed out during the event: “Tanning is by definition a circular industry. But today it is no longer enough to be recyclers, we must be pioneers.”
Refreshments at the end of the day with the Tuscan hills as a backdrop
