On April 9, COTANCE officially announced its withdrawal from the Technical Secretariat (TS) for the definition of the Category Rules on the Environmental Footprint of Apparel and Footwear Products (PEFCR). A decision, that of the European tanning federation, motivated by the fact that the rules the table is developing to calculate the carbon footprint do not take into account the durability parameters of natural materials and end up favoring synthetics.
Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano
Despite months of engagement with the TS —presenting fact-based arguments, proposing solutions, and forming a global coalition of natural material stakeholders—COTANCE regrets that no revision was permitted to the default durability values adopted in the Apparel & Footwear PEFCR. They disproportionately impact slow-fashion products made with natural materials—such as leather, wool, and cotton—ultimately encouraging brands to deselect them in favour of less sustainable alternatives.
The COTANCE Board has therefore decided to disengage the European leather industry from the A&F PEFCR.
“We joined this process in good faith to build a fair and science-based environmental framework for fashion – explains Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano, Secretary-General of COTANCE -. Instead, we’ve witnessed a system that punishes durable, natural materials like leather—exactly the kind of products the circular economy should be encouraging. We cannot stand behind a methodology that promotes fast fashion over long-lasting quality. That said, we remain committed to dialogue and hope to convince the European Commission to review this aspect in the forthcoming revision of the PEFCR.”
Modern Meadow, a leader in sustainable materials, announced that designer Karmuel Young used the company’s biomaterial in his nomination for the Sustasia Fashion Prize. Young, who lives in Hong Kong, chose to use Modern Meadow’s INNOVERA™, formerly known as BIO-VERA®, in his four-in-one suit, which can transform from a jumpsuit to a long coat, short jacket and trousers.
Organised by the Shanghai Fashion Designers Association and yehyehyeh, the Sustasia Fashion Prize 2025 aims to accelerate sustainable practices and innovation in the fashion industry in Asia.
“We are honoured that Karmuel Young chose to use our INNOVERA™ biomaterial in his design for the Sustasia Fashion Prize, so as to showcase the beauty and versatility of innovative and sustainable materials in clothing,” said David Williamson, PhD, CEO of Modern Meadow.
But let’s start with the basics. Let’s ask what the novelty proposed by Modern Meadow presented at the February 2025 edition of Lineapelle consists of. Pierluigi Berardi – VP, Head of Sales & Marketing at Modern Meadow tells us about it.
Introducing Modern Meadow, which took part in Lineapelle for the first time in February 2025.
“Founded in 2011 and based in Nutley, New Jersey (USA), Modern Meadow designs innovative biomaterials inspired by nature. Its products, made using a new hybrid material composed of plant proteins and bio-based polymers, are sustainable, stronger and lighter than traditional materials. Modern Meadow aims to reduce dependence on animal and petroleum-based products without sacrificing quality. The materials integrate seamlessly into existing production processes of the footwear, accessories and fashion, automotive and furniture industries. By collaborating with prestigious brands such as Tory Burch and industry leaders such as BASF, Bader and ISA TanTec, Modern Meadow guarantees high quality and fully traceable products.”
What is INNOVERA™?
“INNOVERA™ is designed to mimic the effect of collagen in the skin. It is made using plant proteins, biopolymers and recycled rubber, for a renewable carbon content of over 80%, and is 25% lighter and twice as strong as leather. It can be customised in colour, feel and pile, depending on the designer’s preferred use.”
This performance I guess comes from the way the product is constructed….
“The product is made of a Nylon 6 nonwoven substrate obtained from recycled tyres, thanks to a collaboration with BASF.
We obtained the polymer from them, which was spun and transformed into fibres to then make up the nonwoven fabric. This was engineered in such a way that it could be impregnated with the plant- and bio-based polymers (soy protein and polyurethane, respectively) and not have any empty space (hence the high strength of the material). If you cut the finished material, in fact, it is virtually impossible to detect the nonwoven fibres.”
What was your goal in making INNOVERA™?
“Our aim was to provide the tanning world with a neutral canvas, with impeccable performance, capable of expanding the product offering, without having to invest in any new technology, but by using the resources and knowledge already in the tanneries’ toolbox.”
Shall we explain its qualities in more detail?
“The material can be categorised as ‘next-gen material’. Materials capable of associating the concept of sustainability with that of performance. Materials, therefore, not only suitable for capsule collections, but also perfect for mainstream use.
It is a winner to be able to combine the precision and performance of an artificial material while maintaining the creative characteristics of traditional finishing processes.
The main benefits it provides are: total freedom in design with less waste; a traceable supply chain; high performance; recycling and sustainability.
To these are added many other benefits. Its processing eliminates resource-intensive tannery processes. In fact, shaving, desalting, tanning and retanning are eliminated, starting with the finishing stages. The panels are absolutely uniform in colour rendering. Any colour can be obtained and any finish applied, resulting in a wide variety of coats and tactile sensations. At the fair we also brought examples of embossing or perforation. Even the smell is close to that of a natural product, as soya proteins react to tanning in a similar way to animal proteins. The panels are perfectly squared and have no areas to discard; therefore, the highest possible yield is produced. Time is saved by eliminating the steps of initial selection and final inspection of the material, as well as the evaluation of defects in preparation for cutting.”
Can you support the demands of the market?
“Modern Meadow is able to commercially produce more than 500,000 square metres per year, making it readily available to customers and simplifying supply chain issues. This is also because INNOVERA™ requires no special preservation or storage conditions, reducing complexity and costs, and has scalable adoption. It can easily complement and shorten existing production processes and allows designers and leather experts to produce customised materials.”
When it comes to sustainability, today we talk in particular about circularity as well as the use of recycled materials. What does the end-of-life of INNOVERA™ look like?
“The first tests we have conducted, which are not yet conclusive, indicate that a little over 50% of INNOVERA™ can be recovered at the end of its life.”
What set of certifications accompanies INNOVERA™?
“The product supplied by BASF is ISCC certified, while for the finished material we are working to achieve Cradle-to-Cradle (C2C) certification and to produce an LCA study.”
Costs?
“We position ourselves on a par with a mid- to high-end leather, but without the waste that has to be considered in the case of a leather.”
What future developments can we expect?
“We are testing the product, with excellent results, in relation to the world of safety footwear. Later on, we will also propose other thicknesses – in addition to the current 1.1-1.3 – which will allow us to adopt them also for linings or reinforcements.”
NextPrinting, the digital textile printing division of the ACM Group, returned to Milano Unica to present the material evolution of its advanced technologies, capable of combining aesthetics, tactility and sustainability, even for high fashion brands.
Starting in fact from the selection of certified low environmental impact yarns and textiles (GOTS, GRS, FSC), NextPrinting has developed a customised fabric printing system capable of reproducing highly realistic and repeatable effects, not only visually, but also tactilely. By means of a surface treatment, for instance, NextPrinting is able to give the selected fabric or filament a leather-like feel, not just an appearance. This becomes a new, sustainable way of recreating the properties of leather on different fabric bases, also integrating the washability characteristics usually precluded to real leather and the possibility of applying an additional water repellent treatment.
Depending on the choice of the fabric to be printed on, it is in fact possible to provide technical performance and wearability usually unattainable by real leather and faux leather. For example, among the fabrics offered by NextPrinting is a solution with a high-performance weave, GRS-certified, anti-UV, anti-bacterial, anti-sweat, easy to clean and crease-resistant.
To better and better respond to customer needs and provide even more effective assistance, GSC Group has reorganized its brochures, improving the user experience. “This reorganization,” explain the Veneto-based chemical tanning company, ”has enabled a rationalization of the existing series, making the identification of pigments in each series easier and faster. It is now possible to explore our color ranges with greater ease and accuracy.”
Not only that, “We have eliminated obsolete series and products to make room for more advanced, high-performance solutions. The new products we have introduced are designed to meet the changing needs of the market, ensuring excellent quality and greater efficiency. The new pigments are aligned with the latest industry trends and expectations, complying with the latest international regulations.”, GSC experts explain.
Note that in the “Special Pigments” folder, the showcases are not simply print samples, but are derived from the actual application of the product on two substrates of different shades. This choice allows for a concrete and precise assessment of the type of effect, offering a more faithful and reliable representation of the final result.
GSC Group offers dedicated live support to clients. A service that allows a direct line to GSC’s pigment sampling laboratory, guaranteeing immediate and personalized assistance for all needs.
1932 Co. was born from a deep passion and authentic nostalgia for a past rich in history, traditions and customs. A time when beauty lay in the details and the value of the handmade, in danger of being forgotten today. A distant world, essential in its means but extraordinarily rich in humanity, which inspired Mirco Arrò, founder of the brand, to give life to a project capable of leaving a mark on the present, handing down the values and know-how of the past.
The 1932 manufacture is distinguished by the use of artisanal processes, rejecting mass industrial production. Each creation is unique and original, with attention to the smallest details and characterised by a personal and recognisable style, the result of careful manual work and a constant search for quality.1932 is not just a brand: it is a way of life.
The aim is to preserve and enhance the traditions inherited from our ancestors, from materials to manufacturing techniques, guaranteeing products destined to last. Going back to the origins means preserving knowledge and practices that risk disappearing, to transform them into objects steeped in history and passion. Each creation carries with it an authentic identity, made of sacrifice and dedication, designed to endure and grow old with those who choose it.
The brand was one of the protagonists, last 25 February, of LINEAPELLE DESIGNERS EDITION, the event supported by UNIC – Italian Tanneries, promoted by Lineapelle and under the patronage of the Municipality of Milan, which involved young designers, brands and new international talents among fashion shows, presentations and performances.
At the Spazio Lineapelle in Milan, in Piazza Tomasi di Lampedusa, 1932 presented a collection of bags and accessories made as in the past, a project capable of recovering unique materials, techniques and workmanship, involving visitors and the curious in a journey through time, between tradition and craftsmanship.
This season, Oerlikon Riri blends performance with sophistication and heritage with innovation, crafting a collection that embodies both contemporary dynamism and timeless refinement. With an increasing transition to stainless steel components and chains, the collection reflects Oerlikon Riri’s commitment to sustainability. The metal parts contain at least 50% recycled stainless steel, reinforcing the brand’s dedication to eco-conscious innovation. The integration of Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) technology ensures superior durability, reduces environmental impacts, and delivers a high-quality finish. By embracing recycled materials, innovative surface treatments, and high-precision manufacturing techniques, the brand continues to set new standards for excellence in the fashion industry.
The Athletic Elegance theme features high-tech finishes, cutting-edge materials, and a vibrant color palette of aquamarine and red, evoking the dynamism of movement and speed. Stainless steel pullers and precision-engineered buttons with PVD coatings further enhance the collection’s refined technical aesthetic.
The Neoclassical Luxury theme draws inspiration from classical Greek culture, art, and philosophy, through a modern, minimalist lens. This mood presents a sacred palette of neutral tones – cream, beige, and soft brown – complemented by opulent gold and palladium finishes. The collection introduces exquisitely crafted accessories, including zippers with Greek columninspired pullers, diamond-embellished details, and high-quality natural stones. A prominent feature is the MIM (Metal Injection Molding) technology, which allows for the creation of intricately shaped components with exceptional durability and mechanical properties.
Through this partnership, the two organisations will drive forward a data-based approach that enables full traceability of leather products back to the individual animal farm, setting a new global standard for responsible sourcing. Leveraging SPOOR’s cutting-edge tracking technology, this initiative ensures that every leather hide can be traced from birth through the tanning process to the final product. This traceability data is subsequently digitized within the OEKO-TEX® Label Check, allowing consumers to effortlessly access and visualize the locations and stages immediately. By additionally certifying each involved production facility for environmentally conscious practices, responsible chemical management and the upholding of social responsibility standards, OEKO-TEX® further advances its MADE IN GREEN label as a benchmark for sustainable and transparent leather. This collaboration is a major step toward a more responsible and environmentally conscious leather industry, offering brands the ability to provide consumers with verifiable insights into their leather products’ origins and production processes.
Conceria Gi.Elle.Emme paid homage to the figure of Pinocchio, the world-famous symbol of Tuscan character, with a stand at Lineapelle Milano dedicated to the famous wooden puppet born from the pen of Carlo Collodi. Here the puppet’s lies are transposed to the world of leather, to take the opportunity to dispel the many false myths circulating about this noble material. Gi.Elle.Emme does this through talking leather, i.e. panels set up inside the stand that are activated by the simple touch of the hand and that provide advice and explanations on the origin of leather, its use and processing. An amusing and involving set-up that wants to launch and reiterate a message of transparency and authenticity of Tuscan leather worked according to the traditional method of slow tanning in tubs.
Gi.Elle.Emme has been investing for a long time to ensure maximum transparency and traceability of its production system. In addition to the ICEC_TS_SC410 traceability certification, the company has recently chosen to calculate the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of four of its articles, in order to numerically analyse the environmental impact of its products throughout their entire life cycle.
Another correlation between the story of Pinocchio and the work of Gi.Elle.Emme is certainly craftsmanship. Like Geppetto, the Tannery recovers a material that would otherwise be destined to decompose, which is waste from the food industry, and ennobles it by giving it a new life in a certain sense.
The heart of ACM’s new proposal is Vision PE26, an expression of research and innovation in which emerging trends merge with artisan know-how to create unique accessories and buttons. Through exclusive finishes and processing, each creation is designed to enhance the stylistic identity of haute couture maisons, guaranteeing details of excellence and Made in Italy quality.
A major novelty is the consolidation of the Aurea line, now in its second season and increasingly focused on the world of high-end leather goods: a selection of sophisticated accessories in which metal, resin and leather details come together to create components with a refined design and high luxury finishes. The line includes precious bases and leather charms made through meticulous handcrafting, emphasising the perfect synthesis of craftsmanship and technological innovation.
TFL has released its new fashion Catalogue for the season Autumn Winter 2026/27 where they present the colour trends for leather garment, footwear, accessories and additionally for the upholstery industry.
The colour trends are divided into “Wearing” and “Living”, devoting a section to each within the publication. Wearing comprises inspirations and colour trends for garments, footwear and accessories.
The Living section features all colours that will decorate the season’s interior designs.
“In Wearing – reads TFL’s presentation note – we will discover how, after years of standardisation of leather, we have returned to discover its unique qualities. This is why we focused on both the aesthetic and utilitarian functions of leather, identifying four primary functions: protective, informative, sensory and technological. We have thus created natural and printed grains, burnished effects and extra-glossy surfaces, not forgetting shiny and silky suedes”.
As regards the Living section, “we will show how in an age of hyper-choice, where for each product there are several competing materials, it is important to support the tanners’ effort at bringing out the beauty and authenticity of the leather. We will demonstrate the importance of opening-up the structure of the skin starting from the beamhouse, making light leathers with a round hand, accentuating the three-dimensionality and vibrancy of the colours on soft, bright nappa”.
The TFL Colour Trends Catalogue is now available HERE
