Arsutoria Magazine

Piquadro at Pitti: when your bag thinks before you do

At the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, for Pitti Immagine Uomo 109, Piquadro presented the Fall/Winter 2026-27 season with a range aimed at building habits.

Modularity as a language. With PQLM, the front panels detach to become clutch bags; the components change function depending on the context. With SYNC, fingerprint security blends into the design: one touch, one access, no need to search for a key at the bottom of your bag at seven in the morning. With VICTOR, the induction charging integrated into the leather rucksacks keeps devices powered up even on the busiest days.

Material as identity. The Made in Italy Materia collection features a new leather, substantial yet surprisingly light, with clean lines and a removable front pocket that is almost a philosophical gesture: carry only what you need, nothing more.

Piquadro speaks of elevated function — and perhaps this is the most honest form of luxury that exists today.


Salle De Mode: where contemporary design meets in-house creativity

Founded in 2003 by designer Salome Amanatishvili and established as a global brand in 2009, Salle De Mode embodies the most authentic and creative spirit of Georgian fashion, standing out as a rare example in the contemporary landscape for a production philosophy based on total control of the supply chain. Every garment and accessory is, in fact, made entirely in-house, a commitment that guarantees high quality standards.

The brand’s portfolio offers a complete lifestyle range, spanning from clothing to accessories. Standing out at the heart of the collections are, in particular, the leather boots and bags: iconic pieces with a bold character, designed for a woman who makes no compromises between avant-garde style and traditional craftsmanship. The use of refined materials and internationally inspired design make every creation an investment destined to stand the test of time.


Leather, penny loops and a pin on the heel

Introducing the Gerard x Cuoio di Toscana capsule collection: a penny loafer, the timeless archetype of men’s footwear, reinterpreted with a contemporary sensibility that honours the roots of tradition. The collection is gender-neutral and comes in black and burgundy: colours that do not seek applause, but which enhance the depth and texture of Tuscan leather, allowing it to speak for itself without aesthetic embellishments.

The leather produced by Cuoio di Toscana is not just any material. It is the result of a slow vegetable tanning process, an ancient method that uses natural tannins extracted from chestnut, mimosa and quebracho wood. No chemical shortcuts, no industrial acceleration: just time, tradition and a mastery of the process that has made this district — between Santa Croce sull’Arno and San Miniato, in the province of Pisa — the global benchmark for sole leather. The consortium holds 95% of the Italian market share and over 80% of the European market share.

The customisation of the moccasin involves precise, highly meaningful elements. The penny, the model’s iconic symbol, becomes in this capsule collection a tangible sign of manufacturing heritage. But it is the new element introduced that captures the attention: a metal pin bearing the Cuoio di Toscana logo applied to the heel, designed to complement the iconic green sole that distinguishes the consortium’s products. A small detail, but far from insignificant: it is the visible signature of a supply chain, the mark of a certified origin. A symbol intended, in the consortium’s view, to define the identity of future Cuoio di Toscana-branded products.

In a market where traceability is increasingly in demand — and often merely promised — this pin tells a verifiable story, engraved into the product itself.

Venice as a philosophy of style: Aqua Alta

There is one city in the world that needs no adjectives. Venice describes itself: with its reflections on the water, the stone worn by the centuries, that understated elegance that never shouts but always makes itself felt. It is from this visual and cultural heritage that Aqua Alta is born, a sneaker brand that takes the name of the Venetian high tide as its aesthetic manifesto.

The choice is no accident. High water is not merely a meteorological phenomenon: it is a way of experiencing the city, of adapting gracefully to the unexpected. And it is precisely this balance — between fragility and resilience, between nature and architecture — that Aqua Alta translates into the design of its shoes.

The men’s and women’s collections follow a precise aesthetic: clean lines, essential forms, details crafted with the patience of a lagoon artisan. No decorative excess, no concessions to passing trends. Just what the brand calls ‘timeless elegance’ — a phrase that is certainly overused, but which here takes on a concrete and recognisable form.

Aqua Alta has chosen Pitti Uomo to introduce itself to the international market, positioning itself in the Futuro Maschile section.


Sayyou: when the shoe stops talking (and starts listening)

There is a specific gesture in the fashion world that has been repeated for decades: the shoe as a statement of intent. Like a manifesto. Like a label applied to the foot. Sayyou breaks this convention with an almost provocative simplicity.

The brand stems from an idea of subtraction, not addition. Away with symbols, away with lettering, away with the narrative weight that all too often transforms an object into a costume. What remains is a form that follows the body, materials chosen to last and perform, colours that signal moods without imposing them.

Material as philosophy. The choice of EVA is not technical, it is conceptual. A single versatile, lightweight material, suitable for different conditions: fewer components, less waste, greater consistency.

Collections as variations. Not seasons, not stylistic breaks: each line explores a different balance between comfort and presence, whilst maintaining a recognisable character. The same language, expressed in different tones. A young brand, with a clear vision.


The Derby Driver by Essen: when minimalism becomes a statement

ESSEN THE LABEL, the brand founded in 2016 by Marre Muijs as a response to a fashion industry that produces too much and reflects too little, launches the Derby Driver.

The shoe is an evolution of the bestselling Foundation Flat: the same tailored fit, the same softness of full-grain lambskin lined with sheepskin, but in a contemporary lace-up silhouette. A flexible sole with signature rubber studs and a removable memory foam insole. A product designed to last, not to be replaced.

Each pair is handmade in Italy, in family-run workshops powered by solar energy. Production takes place in small batches or to order, reducing waste by up to 90%. This is not a marketing promise: it is an alternative industrial model to the dominant one.

Completing the picture is blockchain technology. A QR code is printed on every shoebox, allowing the entire supply chain to be traced: from the origin of the raw materials — LWG-certified leather — to the artisan workshop, right through to distribution. Unfiltered transparency.

Baldinini: style evolves

The new collection: contemporary without ostentation, international allure without forgetting its roots. For Autumn/Winter 2026/27, Baldinini charts a new course for its stylistic language, reaffirming the casual spirit embedded in the brand’s DNA and translating it into an everyday aesthetic that is authentic and understated.

The logo becomes understated, the silhouettes harmonise, and the details speak softly yet with authority. In the womens’ collection, antique gold metallic elements blend naturally into the uppers, warming smooth leathers, suede and textured fabrics. The palette — amethyst, burgundy, antique pink, Japanese Maple — creates a sophisticated and recognisable chromatic universe. Quilting returns, a hallmark of the brand’s heritage, reinterpreted from equestrian boots to everyday loafers. An ‘Evening’ capsule collection brings it all full circle: accessible glamour, with apparent effortlessness.

For men, lightweight constructions and technical details engage with an evolved formality. The Spiga and Trieste lines bring artisanal craftsmanship into a modern elegance. Slayton makes its debut: a sneaker with a running silhouette and an urban soul. The gender-neutral aesthetic runs through the entire casual range, with the Bond line balancing sartorial rigour and street sensibility.

In the background, the SS26 campaign ‘Greetings from San Mauro Mare’ reaffirms the brand’s territorial identity as a starting point — not as nostalgia, but as a strategic compass.


The carefully crafted chaos of ATRIO | RUSO

There is a precise moment when a detail ceases to be mere ornament and becomes architecture. ATRIO | RUSO, a Georgian brand of handcrafted women’s footwear, has built its FW26 collection precisely on this fine line.

The project stems from the collaboration between Creative Director Ruso Danelia — who also heads Atrio, one of Georgia’s most acclaimed premium multi-brand boutiques — and footwear designer Elene Kvimsadze. Two perspectives, a single obsession: detail taken to excess until it becomes a language.

For the FW26 season, philosophy becomes method: a single zip, a precise stitch, a defined fringe are repeated with deliberate insistence until they transform into a silhouette. Not decoration, but visual grammar.

The result is what the brand itself defines as a studied paradox: symmetrical chaos, handcrafted with materials designed to move with the body and memorise every step. Footwear that constantly negotiates between order and rebellion, geometric discipline and the silent power of excess.

Craftsmanship as a political act, in short. In a market that often confuses complexity with value, ATRIO | RUSO chooses the opposite path: taking the simple, repeating it to the point of exhaustion, and discovering that, as a reward, identity is found.


Ambitious’ Portraits: when memory walks

Ambitious, a Portuguese brand founded in Guimarães in 2008, knows this well. At MICAM Milan, it presented Portraits, the Autumn/Winter 2026-27 collection capable of transforming nostalgia and identity into concrete, elegant, durable footwear. The collection draws inspiration from returning to places which, whilst appearing empty, hold stories within them. Deep browns, mustard yellow, intense blues and khaki make up a palette that balances roots and renewal, stability and rebirth. Each model is born from artisanal expertise passed down through generations: precise stitching, meticulous finishes, and constructions designed to stand the test of time.

Portraits debuts at a time when the figures speak for the brand: 500,000 pairs produced annually, 200 employees, 58 markets, distribution across 900 retail outlets. Italy remains the key market, with €6 million in 2025 — 30% of total turnover, followed by the United States and the Netherlands. Whilst Germany shows some uncertainty, the Italian consumer continues to prioritise style. Fertile ground, therefore, for a brand that sees luxury as something felt with every step.

Ambitious presents the Portraits collection, available in both men’s and women’s lines, confirming a brand vision that embraces both worlds without compromise.

When darkness blossoms: Amato Daniele’s leather goods tell the story of the night

«Live by the Sun, Love by the Moon.» It is not merely a poetic mantra: it is the mission statement of a collection that deliberately chooses to inhabit the shadows, finding in them not a limitation but a language. Amato Daniele, with his Autumn-Winter 2026/27 collection presented as part of Lineapelle Designers Edition, crafts bags that seem to emerge gradually from the night: never fully illuminated, never entirely revealed. An approach that might sound like a provocation to the leather goods market — accustomed to celebrating shine, visibility, and the immediate eye-catcher — yet which instead proves to be a precise and courageous narrative choice.

Material as the primary language. Even before colour, it is the surface that speaks. Smooth leather and suede are juxtaposed in carefully studied tactile balances, whilst archival materials — lizard, ostrich, mink, eel — return to the scene not out of nostalgia but for the sake of identity. Shearling enters as an element of protection, almost a material refuge, and for the first time different materials coexist within the same object, including through two-tone designs: two souls, one form.

The palette is sombre and intense — deep blues, burgundy, dark greens, absolute black — yet never heavy: every shade appears veiled, as if viewed beneath a clouded moon. Even the hardware abandons gold in favour of gunmetal, which absorbs light rather than reflecting it, lending the whole a dark, almost Burtonian allure.

The most narrative chapter remains that of the embroidery. Nightblooming, on black satin, depicts nocturnal flowers traversed by a light-hearted, carefree little mouse. Chandelier illuminates the night with a crystal chandelier. Clouds and Rain on velvet transform the sky into something tangible. Cats, on periwinkle satin, brings the collection full circle with a feline yin and yang, suspended between sun and moon.

Seeing everything in black is fine sometimes. If it’s a stylistic choice.