2024 is shaping up to be a year of considerable complexity for the Italian fashion industry and its entire value chain, including instrumental mechanics. An uncertain global macroeconomic framework, characterised by a slowdown in demand and geopolitical tensions, has imposed a significant slowdown on a sector that represents one of the excellences of Made in Italy. The analysis conducted by Assomac in its latest report offers a detailed overview of this conjuncture, outlining the critical issues but also the strategic opportunities that await companies in the coming months, with a special focus on the tannery, footwear and leather goods technology sector.
THE GENERAL CONTEXT: A WIDESPREAD CONTRACTION IN THE FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN
The entire fashion ecosystem has been affected by the weak economic environment. According to data from Federmacchine, the Italian mechano-instrumental goods sector recorded a drop in turnover of 7.4% in 2024 compared to the previous year, to EUR 52.5 billion. This drop was caused by both a decrease in exports (-4.2% to EUR 36 billion) and a collapse in deliveries on the domestic market (-13.7%), a symptom of a drastic reduction in investments in machinery by companies (-14.3%).
The user sectors, in turn, suffered a contraction. The fashion industry as a whole ended 2024 with a turnover of 96 billion euro, down 5.3%. The ‘core’ sectors of the supply chain suffered the most:
– Tannery: The sector saw its turnover fall by 4.3% and production volumes drop by 7.6%. This is the second consecutive year of decline, influenced by the weakness of the main customer sectors (fashion, furniture, automotive). Exports, although slightly down (-3%), showed uneven trends, with growth in markets such as Spain, Germany and Vietnam and declines in the USA, Portugal and the UK.
– Footwear: 2024 was a particularly difficult year for the Italian footwear industry. Assocalzaturifici reports a 9.4% drop in turnover and a 16.1% drop in production. These figures also had a severe impact on employment, with a loss of almost 2,800 employees and the closure of 195 companies (5.5% of the total).
– Leather goods: This sector also recorded a significant drop in turnover (-8.9%) and an even more marked drop in production (-22.9%), with a loss of around 2,000 jobs and the closure of 3.9% of companies. Exports are also down in this sector (-9.3%).
The widespread suffering is fuelled by the slowdown in consumption, particularly in key markets such as China, and by a change in the spending priorities of consumers, who are seeking a better balance between quality and price, even in the luxury segment.
FOCUS TECHNOLOGIES: ITALIAN MECHANICS UNDER PRESSURE
The heart of Assomac’s analysis focuses on the footwear, leather goods and tannery machinery sector, which represents the technological engine of the supply chain. In 2024, the sector generated a total turnover of around €575 million, marking a 12% drop compared to 2023.
The dynamics of exports, which are the main vocation of these companies, were mixed:
– Tannery Machinery: bucking the trend, they recorded a slight positive sign (+2.18%), driven however by specific orders and not by a structural recovery.
– Footwear and leather goods machines: They suffered a significant drop in exports of 19.76%. In particular, machines for leather goods showed a drastic -37.84%.
– Spare parts: They showed a smaller decrease (-3.98%), indicating that maintenance and service activities continue to represent a solid base.
Geographically, while strong European manufacturing markets such as France (-29.8%), Spain and Portugal slowed down, there were surprisingly positive performances in China (+35.4%), Vietnam (+142.9%), Brazil (+47.7%) and India (+33.8%). These figures, however, reflect specific dynamics of investment in local tanneries or production clusters and not a global trend reversal.
ASSOMAC Assembly 2025
THE COMPETITIVE SCENARIO: THE UNSTOPPABLE ADVANCE OF CHINA
Despite the difficulties, Italy maintains a technological leadership position, holding 30% of global exports of machinery for the sector. However, international competition has become more aggressive. China has made an impressive leap, increasing its share of global trade from 34% to 44%in just one year.
China’s strategy is not only based on direct sales, but on an industrial policy of expansion and relocation to South East Asian countries (Vietnam, India, Indonesia), where Beijing consolidates its presence with agreements that feed local demand for machinery. As the world’s leading footwear producer, China is strengthening its role as Asia’s industrial hub, putting pressure on the competitiveness of European companies specialising in higher value-added segments.
2025 OUTLOOK: UNCERTAINTY AND THE NEED FOR A CHANGE OF GEAR
The outlook for 2025 remains cautious and uncertain. The start of the year was weak, with declining orders in both domestic and international markets. There is a lack of concrete signs of an upturn in consumption, a factor that directly affects investments in new machinery by customer supply chains.
Added to this is the lack of impact of the Transition 5.0 Plan, a measure designed to support the dual digital and ecological transition but which, due to excessive bureaucracy and high initial costs, has failed to intercept the needs of SMEs, the backbone of the Italian production fabric.
Faced with this scenario, the Assomac report highlights a number of strategic guidelines that are essential for recovery:
1. Driven Technological Innovation: The real competitive leverage lies in the adoption of advanced technologies. Artificial Intelligence for quality control and predictive analysis, collaborative robotics to automate critical phases, digital twin to simulate production processes, and traceability technologies (blockchain, RFID) are no longer options, but necessities to respond to regulations and consumers’ growing demand for transparency and sustainability.
2. Aggregation and Collaboration: The fragmentation of the production fabric, largely composed of micro and small enterprises, represents a structural weakness. It is essential to promote collaboration models such as business networks, consortia and joint ventures to share resources, access economies of scale, participate in European calls for tenders and improve international visibility.
3. Human Capital and Training: Technological transformation must be accompanied by an investment in skills. It is essential to create training paths to develop new professional figures with digital, technical and sustainability-oriented skills, encouraging generational change.
4. Targeted Industrial Policies: Companies are asking for concrete support through an Extraordinary Industrial Plan, both at national and European level. They need targeted tax incentives, export support tools and a regulatory framework that simplifies bureaucracy and promotes competitiveness, countering the advantage of countries with more favourable regulations and tax systems.
The Italian fashion technology supply chain is at a crossroads. The current crisis is not only conjunctural, but structural. Recovery will depend not only on a restart of global markets, but on the ability of the country-system and individual companies to implement a profound strategic change. The excellence of Made in Italy, based on know-how and technological leadership, is a heritage to be defended and enhanced, but to compete in the new global scenario we will need a decisive step towards collaborative innovation, digitalisation and sustainability.
Quality, skills, technology. These are the pillars on which the Italian footwear, leather goods and tannery machinery sector is called upon to build its relaunch. The General Assembly of Assomac on 20 June 2025, hosted at the Kilometro Rosso Innovation District in Bergamo, offered a complex picture, but also outlined strategies to overcome difficulties and project into the future. The 2024 forecast showed a drop in turnover in the sector of 12% to around EUR 575 million. This contraction, which affects both the domestic and export markets, is part of a global context of geopolitical instability, inflation, shrinking consumption and tightening trade barriers.
A SECTOR SUFFERING, BUT WITH STRONG ROOTS
Mauro Bergozza, President of Assomac, opened the proceedings by emphasising the gravity of the situation but also the sector’s potential to react. ‘Our sector is experiencing a phase of deep suffering, but not irreversible,’ said Bergozza. He emphasised that the quality of Italian technologies, the solidity of know-how and the drive for innovation must once again become the engine of competitiveness. To achieve this, investments in digitisation, automation, sustainability and, above all, a shared vision between companies, institutions and the education and research system are needed. “We must be ready to play a system game, otherwise we will remain on the margins of the global market.”
Despite the difficulties, Italy is confirmed as the technological leader in the high-end segment at an international level, maintaining a 30% share of the sector’s world exports in 2024. In particular, Italy holds 52% of the global export of tannery machinery and 35% of that of leather goods machinery. More penalised is the footwear segment, which stands at 12%, in a competitive context dominated by the growing Chinese presence: Beijing has strengthened its industrial role in the Asian area. President Bergozza emphasised Italy’s leadership in tanning, supported by the high technological value of machinery and tanning chemicals. However, leather goods and footwear are under increasing pressure from Asian producers, particularly China, which produced 12.3 billion pairs of shoes in 2023, accounting for 55% of the world total (87% if we consider the whole of Asia).
THE MACROECONOMIC CONTEXT AND GLOBAL CHALLENGES
Maurizio Tarquini, Director General of Confindustria, provided a broader perspective on the economic context, acknowledging the ability of Italian companies to navigate short and traumatic cycles. He recalled how Italy, in spite of numerous crises (from 9/11, to the Lehman Brothers chaos, to national crises, to Covid, to the war in Ukraine), has become the fourth largest exporting country in the world over the past two decades, maintaining dominant positions in many niche sectors. ‘If we see how we have come through these crises, we should be really proud, it means that we have an edge,’ said Tarquini. He emphasised that Italian companies, even in a changing and complicated environment, have shown that they are able to adapt, always finding the right way through increased market pressure, new markets, innovation and integration.
Italy’s strength lies in its resourcefulness, with a 60% increase in the share of exports of goods in 25 years. However, Tarquini highlighted the lack of adequate political accompaniment to entrepreneurs. “Entrepreneurs are normally not accompanied, those who do business are not accompanied by a policy that supports them,” he said. He lamented the slow authorisation processes and the difficulties in accessing finance and infrastructure. The cost of bureaucracy and regulations in Italy is twice as high as in Germany, which also complains about its bureaucracy. Tarquini announced that Confindustria has submitted 80 cost-free simplification measures to the government, of which only 14 have been approved so far. ‘We are proposing solutions almost obsessively, and we will insist until we are listened to,’ concluded Tarquini, reiterating the importance of a policy that believes in companies, the real engine of the country.
Erika Andreetta, Partner at PwC Italy and EMEA Fashion & Luxury Leader, confirmed the downturn in the markets, with forecasts of a further decline after the summer, due to geopolitical uncertainty that slows down investments and shifts consumption towards essential goods. He noted how the large French groups are trying to recover volumes with more aggressive pricing policies in the entry price categories (perfumes, cosmetics), which however do not involve the Italian fashion supply chain. Andreetta pointed out that luxury products are also suffering from excessive price increases and a change in consumer preferences, which favour experiences rather than the purchase of goods. He stressed the fragmentation of the Italian supply chain, with companies that on average have few employees, and the need to address issues such as national collective agreements and aggregations. He also mentioned the shift to ‘see now, buy now’ models by big brands, which severely reduces production batches, creating peaks of work followed by decreases for the supply chain, thus making it difficult to set production capacity.
Mauro Bergozza
INNOVATION AND DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION: THE WAY FORWARD
Giuliano Noci, Professor of Strategy and Marketing at the Politecnico di Milano, emphasised the need for a profound digital transformation if we want to ensure the future success of Made in Italy. He acknowledged the ‘positive bias’ Italy enjoys in the world, thanks to the quality of our traditional manufacturing. However, he warned that past excellence does not guarantee future excellence. Noci criticised Italy’s low investment in innovation (1.4 per cent of GDP, compared to 2.5 per cent in China and over 3 per cent in other countries) and in digital, where Italy is fourth to last in Europe in terms of skills. “The crux of the matter for any Italian industry is called digital transformation,” said Noci, describing it as a largely unfinished priority.
He argued that the problem is not only Italian, but also European, particularly for Germany and Italy, the ‘key points of European manufacturing’ that are now in the news as the ‘main problems’. Noci used the example of the German automotive industry to illustrate how a ‘manufacturing cultural legacy’ can impede the proper orientation of investments. He reiterated that Italy’s extraordinary ability to transform physical matter into manufactured goods is no longer sufficient. It is essential to integrate a new operational cycle: data management, with artificial intelligence as the completion of the digital transition. “Artificial intelligence is like air, it will enter every crevice, we will not escape artificial intelligence,” he said.
Noci outlined two key revolutions: digital transformation, which will lead companies to become ‘service providers’ rather than just machine suppliers, and an ‘ability to express an integrated cycle with our business customers’. This approach of ‘customer intimacy’ and operational integration is the only hope to compete with Chinese manufacturers, who will continue to sell machines at a lower cost. “We will no longer be able to be in the market as sellers of machines, but will have to become intimate with our customers as suppliers who can take care of our customers’ products in a broad sense. He concluded that luxury, although in a phase of change, is not ‘in trouble’, but is redefining the type of products required: customisation, new materials, environmental sustainability.
Mauro Bergozza emphasised the need to overcome old patterns and habits, promoting Automation, Creativity and Technology (ACT) as strategic levers for the relaunch. He emphasised the importance of working in a supply chain and with a shared vision to tackle the markets. Italy’s total export of ACT technologies has reached over 32 billion euros, with an estimated untapped potential of around 8 billion. Among the priorities that emerged from the Assembly, Bergozza mentioned greater access to subsidised finance tools (such as Industria 5.0 funds), support for exports in key markets (Africa, India, South-East Asia, South America), investment in technical training, and the acceleration of digital innovation processes. He launched a proposal for a major international promotion programme for medium technology.
THE NEED TO SYSTEMISE AND AGGREGATE
The concept of ‘working as a system’ was a leitmotif of the Assembly. Maurizio Forte, ICE Agenzia Central Director for Export Sectors, reiterated ITA – Italian Trade Agency’s mission to accompany companies in exporting, investing resources where they can yield the most, in collaboration with the Confindustria associations. He praised the industry’s ability to do ‘supply chain work’, citing the example of the pooling of SIMAC and Tanning Tech exhibitions. Forte expressed confidence in market opportunities, particularly in Africa, where ‘you sow today to reap in 10 years, but if you never sow you will never get a harvest’.
Luca Sburlati, President of Confindustria Moda, the Confindustria Textile and Fashion Federation, spoke of a ‘very strong crisis’ in the Tuscan leather goods district and a general contraction in the textile, fashion and leather products system, which will drop from 104 to 90 billion in turnover between 2023 and 2024, with a further -20% in the Tuscan district in the first three months of 2025. He pointed out that China is creating its own brands and accessible luxury, while the price increase of some brands has led to a decrease in demand. Sburlati also agreed on the need for a profound change, stating: ‘If we reason as we have reasoned up to now, we are all dead, including Italian brands’. He proposed a ten-year national strategic plan for the fashion industry, including Assomac, and horizontal work between the categories. He called for a shift of private investment towards Italian companies, suggesting a minimum tax advantage for pension funds investing in Italian companies.
Sburlati criticised the tendency of sourcing managers to reduce purchasing costs, which induces ‘sub-standard’ practices that only have the effect of lowering quality. He cited a personal example where he refused to work with a brand that imposed prices that were too low: ‘Either we have the courage as a supply chain to respond even negatively to certain outrageous proposals or we will not get out of it’. He reiterated that technology, including artificial intelligence, must go beyond mere production, offering services such as operations management and quality control. He concluded with the wish to work in a more united manner, recognising that ‘if I had attended this assembly 10 years ago, I would have found you all competing with each other, today you are one supply chain and this is a strength to be developed’. He finally recalled the importance of sustainability as a value and barrier to entry for producers from other parts of the world.
Mauro Bergozza also returned to the topic of aggregation, reiterating that competitiveness is built together, with business networks, strategic alliances and investment in research and development. Trust is important, but alone it is not enough; what is needed is a concrete transformation of expectations into turnover. He emphasised that the fragmentation of the sector, with over 70 per cent micro and small family businesses, limits the ability to invest in innovation, digitalisation and internationalisation. “Aggregating through mergers, acquisitions or alliances is no longer an option, but a necessity to survive and grow”. He cited successful M&A examples in other sectors and the importance of openness to outside capital for growth. He concluded: ‘We are too small to compete’, and urged to address the issue of ‘industrial dwarfism’.
Guido Cami, President and CEO of Industrie Chimiche Forestali, shared his company experience in a period of ‘incredible turbulence’. He recounted how his company, founded in 1918 and a manufacturer of adhesives, diversified its outlet sectors (footwear, leather goods, automotive, flexible packaging, industrial applications) and took over other companies to make ‘critical mass’. “I believe that size matters in an increasingly complicated external environment,” said Cami. He described total confusion due to Covids, wars, commodity shortages, rising energy costs and inflation, which have reduced purchasing power and shifted spending priorities. He stated that he had never seen such a chaotic situation in 40 years.
Cami espoused Noci’s vision of digital transformation, calling it an ‘investment in technology’ and emphasising how his company has transformed itself into a ‘service provider’ rather than just a sticker manufacturer. “We are a seller of a service that to customers solves the problem of sticking and holding two surfaces together.” He emphasised the value of Italian service, friendliness and skill, elements that Chinese competitors cannot replicate. He reiterated the importance of staying upmarket. The company’s larger size allows it to sustain fixed costs, invest in research and development (24 people out of 153 employees) and provide service. “If you are small, no matter how good you are, you still have to provide certain solutions to customers, but costs will be higher than revenues and margins almost non-existent. To get around this problem you have to grow in size.”
Salvatore Majorana, Director of Kilometro Rosso Innovation District, presented the district as an ‘agent of technology transfer’, dedicated to facilitating the exchange of knowledge between industry and the world of innovation. He highlighted the extraordinary quality of Italian scientific research, despite limited investments, and its ability to have an impact at global level. Kilometro Rosso brings together more than 85 companies and research centres, with the University of Bergamo, the Mario Negri Institute and Confindustria Bergamo among its establishments. The park attracts and retains young talent, with an average age of around 30. Majorana illustrated Kilometro Rosso’s approach to the digital industry and circular economy, with technological families such as artificial intelligence, robotics, sensor technology and additive manufacturing. He cited successful examples, such as the Intellimec Consortium, which brings together companies and researchers to develop technological solutions, and the joint laboratory with the European Institute of Technology to bring state-of-the-art robotics to companies.
Giuliano NociMaurizio TarquiniMaurizio Forte
THE ROLE OF FINANCE IN GENERATIONAL CHANGEOVER AND AGGREGATIONS
Alberto Russo, Founder and Managing Partner of Russo De Rosa Associati, addressed the crucial issue of company size, quoting President Bergozza’s phrase: ‘we are too small to compete’. He observed a private equity market that is very active in creating industrial clusters and platforms, but also a growing interest on the part of industry and commerce in acquiring competitors in order to grow in size and expand their product and service offerings to respond to structural changes in the market and internationalisation. Russo noted an increase in SMEs seeking acquisition partners or intending to sell a stake with a preference for long-term projects. Currently, more companies want to sell, but the number of those who want to buy is growing steadily, driven by the market’s need to increase their size and look beyond the Italian borders. He emphasised the importance of a correct assessment of the company’s value and contractual structures that guarantee the governability of the transaction in the future. Although entrepreneurs often prefer the industrial investor, because he brings expertise as well as capital, the attractiveness of private equity has grown, with deals now considering EBITDA even below EUR 5 million, down to EUR 2-3 million, with an average multiple of around 6-6.5. This is a change for the market, which now denotes a greater propensity to create specialisation platforms through holding companies that generate value through the combination and capacity for synergetic projects.
Micaele Pietro Golferenzo, Private Banker at Intesa Sanpaolo Fideuram, described the generational transition as a ‘bellyache’ moment for entrepreneurs, often procrastinated. The greatest difficulty emerges when the children show no interest in continuing the business or, worse, are not deemed up to it. Such situations easily lead to a discontinuity that can be managed through the entry of private equity, venture capital, or industrial alliances. Golferenzo pointed out that banks, when assessing financing, look not only at the company’s current solidity and size, but also at its future and continuity strategy. The presence of a manager, for example, is seen as a guarantee of continuity and contributes to a better rating, resulting in access to more funds and lower interest rates. He concluded that, while there is not yet an entirely clear growth of companies looking at generational handover, there is a growing awareness of the need to address these issues, even if talking about ‘survival’ instead of ‘growth’ can generate unease.
PROSPECTS
The Assomac General Assembly highlighted a sector in deep crisis but determined to react. President Mauro Bergozza reiterated the urgency of joint action at European level to defend and relaunch the continent’s manufacturing identity. He invited all members to contribute actively to consolidate the sector’s representation and avoid self-referentiality. He announced that Assomac is strengthening its structure with the opening of a new office in Milan, closer to the supply chain, Federmacchine and the world of consultancy and finance.
‘The challenge ahead of us is complex, but also full of opportunities,’ said Bergozza. The European fashion and technology industry can become a protagonist again if it knows how to join forces, innovate, and open up to the world. Assomac is ready with an increasingly European vision and a clear strategic programme. But the future is built together: companies, institutions, young talents and employees. It is essential to strengthen the dialogue between companies in the sector in order to represent the value of Italian medium technology with a united voice to the Italian and European governments, in order to obtain adequate industrial policies and concrete support instruments.
“The time to act is now,” Bergozza concluded, quoting Bank of Italy Governor Fabio Panetta: “Innovation does not happen by chance. We need an ecosystem that stimulates competition, spreads ideas and reduces asymmetries between financiers and entrepreneurs’. The appeal is to build this ecosystem together, for a Made in Italy that, although accustomed to difficulties, can continue to be competitive and a leader in the world.
Micaele Pietro Golferenzo, Guido Cami, Alberto Russo, Luca Sburlati, Erika Andreetta
Cirql®, a Vietnam-based innovation company focused on developing scalable, less impactful, finished midsole components and material solutions for footwear brands, announces a strategic agreement with Frasson Spa, an Italian solemakers company specializing in supercritical foaming and injection molding for footwear components. This partnership solidifies Cirql’s presence in Europe and allows the company to supply European footwear brands with their cutting-edge recycled polymer (rTPU) technology for high-performance midsoles and outsoles.
Under this collaboration, Frasson is now Cirql’s certified, official partner in the EU for the development and production of technical shoe components. Frasson will serve as a key supplier and approved EU development partner, manufacturer, and OEM for Cirql midsoles and outsoles, enabling more sustainable solutions to footwear brands across Europe.
“This partnership is a significant milestone for Cirql as we expand into the European market,” said Matt Thwaites, Vice President and General Manager at Cirql. “Frasson’s expertise in supercritical foaming and injection molding perfectly complements our vision of providing sustainable and innovative materials to global footwear brands. Together, we aim to elevate the footwear industry with cutting-edge, eco-friendly solutions.”
Cirql’s innovative approach to sustainable materials focuses on reducing waste in manufacturing while providing a range of performance solutions for technical footwear components. Combined with Frasson’s manufacturing capabilities, the partnership sets a new standard for eco-conscious collaboration in the footwear industry and minimizing environmental impact.
“Frasson is a company always looking for the best technologies in the world to offer to its customers. We were the first in Italy to purchase this type of machine to investigate this new material. Thanks to Cirql, we have completed the material package and with their cutting-edge recycled polymer (rTPU) technology can now also offer SCF with a significant portion of recycled material,” said Alberto Frasson, General Manager at Frasson.
Despite the uncertain climate of global markets, Simac Tanning Tech is betting heavily on internationality, technological innovation and, this year, on Africa as a key continent. We talk about this with Agostino Apolito, General Manager of ASSOMAC, the Italian trade association that organises the event.
What will be the highlights of the 2025 edition of Simac Tanning Tech?
“We have chosen to focus on internationality and technological innovation. This year we want to further strengthen STT’s role as a global platform for innovation. We are planning in-depth seminars and targeted technology tracks, with a special focus on the first concrete applications of artificial intelligence. Memberships are already more than positive, despite the fact that the geopolitical climate continues to be complicated.”
How are geopolitical tensions, such as those between India and Pakistan or the Russian – Ukrainian war, affecting the shoe and leather goods technology market?
“The global geopolitical situation unfortunately represents a sword of Damocles for the whole sector. India and Pakistan are two key markets for us, and the recent tensions between these two countries create inevitable uncertainties. Moreover, the war between Ukraine and Russia continues to hold back investment, with direct repercussions for our companies, which produce capital goods. We need stability and visibility on the future in order to be able to invest with confidence.”
What are the most important challenges on which the sector must push?
“Africa has become strategic to beat Chinese competition. It is a tough challenge, but the interest is very strong, especially in the tanning and footwear sector. If we look at the numbers, the balance of production in Europe and Africa has been achieved: about 260 million pairs of shoes for each continent. For this reason, as ASSOMAC and STT, we are developing significant projects not only with Morocco, Tunisia and Egypt, but also with key countries such as Kenya, Senegal and Niger, aiming at the creation of structured and sustainable supply chains, capable of guaranteeing quality raw materials and therefore relying on Italian technologies.”
Are there already concrete activities underway on the continent?
“For sure. In Kenya, for example, we are working with the government to organise the cattle supply chain, which could potentially become one of the most important in the world. The Kenya-Mozambique region, if it were a single country, would be second only to a few countries in global cattle production. However, the quality of the hide is still low and needs major structural intervention. This is where ASSOMAC, UNPAC and UNIC come in, through targeted projects and field missions.”
Are there any other novelties in view for Simac Tanning Tech in September?
“Certainly, an important and interesting one dedicated to the world of metal accessories. In fact, we will integrate at the fair, as a pilot project, technologies for galvanic, gold-plating and bronzing of accessories, accompanied by innovative purification systems. This is a significant step forward that responds to a growing demand from the fashion market, which is increasingly attentive not only to the final quality of the product, but also to the environmental sustainability of the entire supply chain. And it responds to STT’s desire to expand its horizons and involve other production sectors in the offer.”
If he had to identify the main objective to be achieved with this edition of Simac Tanning Tech?
“To further strengthen the exhibition’s central position on the international scene and confirm Italy as a centre of excellence for technological innovation in the sector. We want to offer visitors a complete overview of the latest innovations, encouraging investments that can fuel stable and sustainable growth of the entire production sector.”
An ambitious challenge, therefore, that looks well beyond September, aiming to create an ever-deeper connection between innovation, the global market and sustainable development.
Innovation does not only mean developing technical upgrades: it is also vision. New points of view that sometimes open up by approaching worlds that seem far away. It is on this boundary – between the present and the future of the industry – that ASSOMAC, the association of Italian manufacturers of footwear, leather goods and tanning technology, is moving today.
“We have set up a working group dedicated to exploring new technological frontiers,” says Massimo Angeleri, vice-president of ASSOMAC. “Our task is to present members with emerging applications, such as artificial intelligence, to understand what really can be integrated into our machineries.”
A first concrete step was the start of a collaboration with the Italian Institute of Technology in Genoa. “We have already had a couple of meetings,” Angeleri continues. “They explained to us the main lines of their research. We were very impressed by their approach to advanced robotics: we are talking about robots capable of analysing situations and reacting autonomously. Not simple automation, but contextual intelligence.”
Is this a paradigm shift that could redesign the entire production cycle? The question is legitimate, and it is right to investigate. But without easy enthusiasm. “I believe that the level of our technologies is already very high,” Angeleri points out, “but this does not mean being content. We have to understand how these innovations can add real value to the innovations we already offer the market.”
The next step will be a visit to the IIT in July, to see possible applications in the field. Afterwards, some researchers will be guests at Simac Tanning Tech. “We have invited them to tour the stands,” Angeleri concludes, “so they can see our machines up close, the way we work, and the real needs of manufacturers.”
It is only by investigating frontiers that new territories can be discovered, and this is exactly the type of path that ASSOMAC and Simac Tanning Tech want to propose to the industry.
The world of footwear is preparing for a crucial appointment with innovation. From 31 August to 3 September 2025, Shanghai will host the 22nd UITIC International Technical Footwear Congress, organised by UITIC and CLIA – China Leather Industry Association, on the theme ‘Competitiveness and Sustainability in the Era of Artificial Intelligence’.
An event that promises to be of extraordinary interest, as confirmed by Sergio Dulio, UITIC President, whom we interviewed to better understand the novelties of this edition.
Artificial Intelligence drives innovation
“More than half of the papers presented concern AI, with mature and exciting projects. This is a turning point”, reveals President Dulio.
Artificial intelligence is confirmed as the pivotal theme of the next edition of the UITIC Congress, with a surprising number of contributions focusing on concrete and advanced applications. “This is a positive surprise, testifying to the growing curiosity and desire to experiment also in the footwear sector.”
The congress explores unprecedented scenarios in which AI is emerging as a creative tool, particularly in the product design phase. “A widespread trend is emerging to consider artificial intelligence as a lever for rethinking product design processes,” adds Dulio.
Sustainability: from regulatory constraint to strategic lever
The issue of sustainability is also taking on a new centrality, evolving from a simple regulatory obligation to a decisive competitive factor. “Today, companies recognise sustainability as a strategic element for competitiveness,” notes Dulio. “It is no longer just an externally imposed obligation, but a value that has now entered the common lexicon and is perceived as necessary for a company’s prosperity.”
A rich and high-profile programme
The congress is divided into four major thematic sessions: Innovative products and materials; Sustainability as a tool for competitiveness; Innovative and AI-enhanced manufacturing; Successful business cases.
Among the most eagerly awaited moments, the keynote speech by Nicoline van Enter on artificial intelligence applied to footwear development. She will be joined by a second keynote speaker chosen from among Anta’s top managers. The concluding panel will be dedicated to the future of AI in the footwear world.
“The quality of the speeches is very high,” Dulio points out with satisfaction. “We had no difficulty in completing the programme with authoritative speakers for each of the four sessions.”
China protagonist of this edition of the Congress
One of the most significant novelties is the strong growth of the Chinese contribution. “There has been an important participation of Chinese companies in the Call for Abstract with high quality proposals and papers”, reveals Dulio.
Innovating to overcome the crisis
At a delicate time for the entire shoe industry, the congress assumes a strategic value. “Investing in innovation is now more crucial than ever,” reiterates the president. “Emerging technologies, starting with artificial intelligence, can be a key to regaining competitiveness, especially for manufacturing companies that can no longer compete on volumes.”
An opportunity for the entire supply chain
The event is aimed at the entire footwear value chain: “It is a fundamental update not only for those who make the finished product, but also for those who develop and supply the technologies”, Dulio emphasises. The supply chain is called upon to dialogue, confront each other and rethink with a view to the future.
The evolution of UITIC
The congress is not only a point of arrival, but also a starting point. “We are asking ourselves what the future evolution of our association will be”, Dulio anticipates. “It is possible that in two years’ time UITIC will no longer be exactly as we know it today.” An opening that portends important novelties for the coming editions.
The 22nd UITIC International Technical Footwear Congress in Shanghai is shaping up to be a not-to-be-missed event for all those in the industry who want to understand and anticipate the transformations taking place. A unique opportunity to explore how artificial intelligence and sustainability can become the pillars of future competitiveness in the world of footwear.
The final programme will be published around 10 of June on the conference website (uitic2025.com).
Taking Italian technology abroad means becoming explorers again: it requires balance and strategy, but the results can be extraordinary. Assomac Around the World 2025′ has seen and sees the association engaged in targeted missions to expand the presence of Italian technologies for the tanning, leather goods and footwear sectors in the most promising world markets.
FIRST STAGE: India International Leather Fair in Chennai
The first stop on this ambitious journey was the India International Leather Fair (IILF) held in Chennai from 1 to 3 February. The event represented a strategic platform for Italian companies, ready to present innovations and cutting-edge technologies in a market, the Indian one, that is experiencing rapid expansion. In 2025, India’s GDP is expected to grow by 6.5%, with the leather goods industry aiming to reach €45 billion by 2030.
India, not only the world’s second largest producer of footwear and leather goods and the fifth largest exporter of leather goods, but also the third largest exporter of saddle goods, represents a crucial market for Italian exports. In fact, in the period January-October 2024, Italy consolidated its position as the second largest supplier of leather processing machinery, right after China, with exports amounting to €14.62 million (+42.15% over the previous year).
SECOND STAGE: Lineapelle Milan and APLF Hong Kong
In February, the journey continued in Italy with Lineapelle Milan, a must-attend event for companies eager to showcase technological innovations and craftsmanship skills to the global market. The Milan event was immediately followed by the APLF trade fair in Hong Kong from 12 to 14 March, thus consolidating Italy’s position in a strategic point connecting East and West.
THIRD STAGE: Mega Leather Show, Pakistan
The international tour then landed in Pakistan with participation in the Mega Leather Show, held from 11 to 13 April. Pakistan, with annual leather exports of $874 million, is the country’s second largest export sector after textiles. The country has a well-developed supply chain in leather garments, shoes and gloves.
With around 800 leather companies and 213 corporate members of the Leather Tanning Association, the leather industry accounts for 4% of the national GDP. Assomac’s participation in this fair offered strategic opportunities for Italian companies, opening up new possibilities for collaboration and contributing to the growth of a sector that is fundamental to Pakistan’s economy.
INNOVATION AND COMPETITIVENESS: CENTRAL OBJECTIVES
These first steps in 2025 confirm the effectiveness of the ‘Assomac Around the World’ programme in opening new trade routes and strengthening the international relations of the Italian leather industry. The strategy focuses decisively on real innovation, concrete collaboration and global competitiveness, demonstrating that for Made in Italy there are no insurmountable borders, only opportunities to be seized.
With these premises, the second half of the year promises to be just as dynamic and challenging. Because, as Assomac teaches, international success cannot be improvised: it is built step by step, journey by journey.
Starting with stops in Vietnam and Shanghai. Assomac Around the World will continue to support member companies in their international expansion in the second half of 2025. The programme includes two important trade fair stops: from 9 to 11 July the companies will be in Vietnam, in Ho Chi Minh City, to take part in Shoes and Leather. Afterwards, from 3 to 5 September, the initiative will move to Shanghai for the ACLE trade fair.
Confindustria Accessori Moda, the Federation that represents about 10,000 companies in the footwear, leather goods, tanning, fur and leather clothing sectors, presents the results of the 1st Business Cycle Survey, which photographs the trend of the sector in the first two months of the year. The data confirm the continuation of the critical situation that characterised all of 2024, a year that closed with a total industry turnover of around 30 billion euros. The negative trend also extends to the beginning of 2025, with a -6.4% drop in turnover in the first quarter compared to the same period of the previous year, confirming a slowdown across all production sectors. A further cause for concern is the industrial production index, which – according to ISTAT data referring to the first four months of 2025 – shows a marked drop in activity: -16.4% compared to the same period in 2024.
Employment: increased use of CIG
The production difficulties are also reflected in employment: in the first three months of the year, almost 13 million hours of CIG were authorised in the sector, up 66% compared to the same period in 2024.
Export and Import
Exports in the first two months of 2025 fell by -6.5% year-on-year to EUR 4.2 billion. The figure, negative in itself, should however be assessed in relation to exports (total year) in 2024 over 2019, the pre-covid year: in this case, there is a 3% growth (€25.1 billion in 2024, €24.3 billion in 2019) that confirms the appreciation that consumers all over the world have for Made in Italy. Resistance is therefore a must.
Inbound flows, driven by imports from the Far East, have started to grow again (+7.5%). As a result of these dynamics, the trade balance of the sector – although in surplus for 2.2 billion Euros – has recorded a double-digit drop (-16.7%) compared to 2024: this leads to a reflection on the price of Made in Italy products on the market, which are too expensive for the current purchasing power of Italian families.
Geographically, exports to the European Union remain stable (-0.3%). The US market is also holding up at the moment (-1.2%), although it is reporting difficulties linked to the introduction of new duties by the second Trump administration. There was a sharper slowdown in China (-30.5%) and Hong Kong (-20.4%); positive signals came instead from the Arab Emirates (+11.4%), Turkey (+23.5%), Kazakhstan (+10.4%) and Ukraine (+0.5%).
Outlook for the current year, stable but unsatisfactory
The forecast analysis for the second quarter of 2025 shows no signs of recovery. Business sentiment remains cautious:
52% of respondents expect stable but unsatisfactory conditions, while one in two companies fear a further reduction in revenues;
On the employment front, 7 out of 10 companies estimate a stable workforce, 28% expect a contraction, while only 10% expect an increase;
39% of companies expect to resort to the CIG in the second quarter as well.
Underlying the continuing difficulties is, firstly, the general weakness of domestic and foreign demand, indicated by 8 out of 10 companies. This is followed by the effects of geopolitical conflicts: Russia-Ukraine and the Middle East, cited by a total of 28% of companies. No less important is the concern linked to the crisis of the big luxury brands and the new US duties, indicated by 40% of the sample.
Giovanna Ceolini, President of Confindustria Accessori Moda, commented: “The picture that emerges is undoubtedly complex, but the companies in the supply chain are showing great resilience and a willingness to adapt. Alongside the difficulties linked to falling demand, geopolitical tensions and the export slowdown, companies are also facing long-term strategic challenges, starting with sustainability. Consumers are paying more and more attention to this aspect in their purchasing choices and, while for 56% of companies in the sector sustainability is a top priority, 38% expect the focus on these issues to grow further in the coming months. However, transforming this commitment into concrete action requires significant investment, resources that many SMEs today struggle to find. The situation is difficult: there is a risk of collapse of an entire sector, made up of thousands of small and medium-sized enterprises, artisans, professionals and hundreds of thousands of workers’. And he adds: ‘While appreciating the attention shown by the current government in recent months, we call for the urgent opening of a joint table between production companies and Brands, to build together a sustainable future for the Made in Italy production chain, given that it is our companies that in many cases produce the accessories appreciated by consumers around the world and signed by international Brands. It is essential to act promptly and adopt concrete measures, such as the 2015-2019 tax credit for samples, support for internationalisation and access to credit, the extension of anti-crisis tools, including the CIG, and the implementation of a new industrial policy capable of accompanying companies towards innovation and sustainability. Time is a decisive variable: every month that passes without answers represents a step backwards for the entire Italian fashion system”.
The LIFE I’M TAN project draws to a close. Launched in September 2021 and funded by the European Union under the LIFE programme (LIFE20 ENV/IT/000759), the initiative set out to enhance traditional vegetable tanning and retanning processes through the development of a new generation of high-performance natural tannins. These innovative extracts undergo innovative purification and chemical-physical modification processes. Production is currently at the pilot stage, with market analysis, feasibility studies and cost assessments underway to support the scale-up to full industrial manufacturing.
The project was carried out by five Italian companies, all directly or indirectly connected to the leather tanning industry and was coordinated by Silvateam. These partners are Crossing, Centro Ricerca per la Chimica Fine (CRCF), Incas tannery and the Aquarno Consortium.
PROJECT GOALS AND CONCEPT
The primary objective of the LIFE I’M TAN project was to develop and validate a new generation of innovative, purified and chemically modified natural tannins. These advanced tannins are designed not only to enhance existing vegetable tanning processes but also to enable entirely new, more sustainable solutions. Central to the project is a strong commitment to environmental, economic and social sustainability, as well as a forward-looking vision, aligning with forthcoming EU regulations such as the Digital Product Passport and the Regulation on Deforestation-Free Products.
Over the course of four years of research and applied development, the project successfully designed a new class of natural tannins derived from botanical sources such as chestnut and quebracho wood. These groundbreaking tanning agents offer environmentally sustainable alternatives, contributing to a reduced reliance on hazardous chemicals, decreased water consumption and improved wastewater quality.
In parallel, the project assessed the feasibility of valorising by-products from the tannin production, as well as leather scraps and trimmings, by transforming them into high value-added solutions, demonstrating a practical and scalable model of circular economy.
The entire research and development process was carried out following a rigorous analytical methodology based on specific Key Performance Indicators (KPIs), including Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the leather and technical evaluations aligned with the standards set by the leather tanning industry and the extremely demanding automotive and fashion brands.
Aquarno: respirometer for biodegradability testsCrossing: setting up the reactorCrossing: the reactor
ACTIONS AND KEY RESULTS
The LIFE I’M TAN project was structured around several core activities:
– Benchmarking and environmental analysis: A thorough evaluation of conventional tanning technologies currently used in the market was conducted to establish baseline environmental impact indicators. This benchmarking served as a critical reference point, enabling the quantification of improvements achieved through the application of the newly developed modified tannins.
– Development of purified and enhanced natural tannins: Led by a dedicated green chemistry team from Silvateam, Crossing and CRCF, the project designed advanced processes for the purification and chemical modification of natural tannins. The resulting extracts demonstrated significantly improved chemical and physical characteristics compared to conventional benchmarks. Several of these new tannins deliver enhanced performance while requiring lower application dosages, thanks to their higher concentration of active ingredients. Others, distinguished by a notably lighter colour than standard tannins, possess optimal chemical properties for stabilising hides during the pickle phase, contributing to a reduction in the use of fossil-derived compounds in the pre-tanning process.
– Application in leather production: The innovative tannins were subjected to extensive application testing in both laboratory and industrial environments. Conceria Incas carried out full-scale production runs of leather intended for footwear and leather goods, successfully demonstrating the practical applicability and enhanced performance of the new tanning agents. Leathers treated with the LIFE I’M TAN extracts exhibited excellent versatility in colour development, including the ability to achieve light and pastel shades, representing a significant improvement in comparison with conventional tannins. In addition, preliminary results suggest strong potential for these tannins in the formulation of waterproof leathers, an area identified for further exploration and development.
– Environmental footprint of the new tanning process: The benchmark comparison was extended to include also a comprehensive analysis of environmental impact indicators. The Aquarno Consortium, in collaboration with Conceria Incas and CRCF, conducted in depth evaluations of key chemical and physical parameters, focusing on optimising wastewater treatment processes and delivering measurable environmental improvements:
o Water consumption during the tanning phases was reduced by 5% to 25%, depending on the type of leather article produced. This optimisation was due to the high efficiency and adaptability of the newly developed modified tannins, which support the creation of leather products that meet or exceed industry performance benchmarks. o Tanning bath analyses showed a reduction of up to 40% in organic matter content, measured as Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD), when compared to conventional reference processes. o Also potentially hazardous substances, including phenol, bisphenols and formaldehyde, were reduced by more than 80%, a direct result of significantly lowering the use of synthetic tanning agents in the process. o Biodegradability testing of treated wastewater is currently underway to determine whether the reduced pollutant load is also accompanied by enhanced biodegradability. These evaluations will be finalised upon project completion.
All environmental impact data collected contributes directly to the project’s Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) and Life Cycle Costing (LCC) studies, ensuring a holistic understanding of both the sustainability and economic viability of the new tanning process.
– Upcycling of LIFE I’M TAN by-products: An additional key benefit of the new natural tannins is the significant reduction in production waste, both from the chemical processing and leather tanning phases. The advanced purification processes developed for the modified tannins enabled the recovery and upcycling of certain by-products into high-value ingredients for use in other sectors, including animal nutrition and the manufacture of environmentally friendly resins. In parallel, leather scraps and trimmings generated during manufacturing can be recycled through a hydrolysis process into fertilisers suitable for organic agriculture. This approach contributes to closing the loop on material reuse and supports a fully circular model for leather valorisation.
Silvateam: pilot plantSilvateam: first batch of modified tannins
SUSTAINABILITY AND FUTURE OUTLOOK
The results achieved thus far, while pending broader validation at full industrial scale, clearly demonstrate that the new modified natural tannins offer a promising pathway toward a next-generation tanning technology that is innovative, environmentally sustainable and commercially viable.
From an economic standpoint, vegetable tanning and retanning processes based on these advanced tannins enable a more efficient use of raw materials by reducing the need for conventional tanning agents. At the same time, they support the production of high performance, soft leathers available in a broad spectrum of colours, adopting simplified bio-based formulations.
As the LIFE I’M TAN project concludes, attention now turns to scaling and disseminating these innovations across the leather tanning sector. The project provides a replicable, industrially relevant model for sustainable tanning practices, with strong potential for adoption across Italy and the wider European market. By embracing these modified natural tannins, the leather industry can significantly improve its environmental footprint, elevate product quality and align more closely with emerging regulatory frameworks. Importantly, these tannins exhibit strong transferability beyond leather processing, with potential applications in fields such as animal nutrition and the development of sustainable resins and polymers.
LIFE I’M TAN has demonstrated that collaborative innovation and a clear sustainability focus can modernise traditional industries, delivering meaningful environmental, economic and social impact across the value chain.
Incas: Life I’m Tan tanned leathersIncas: Life I’m Tan tanned leathers
Wastewater treatment can also benefit from artificial intelligence. On June 18, a project curated by Consorzio Aquarno, in collaboration with Data Brain Services, was unveiled that aims to prevent accidents at work and prevent the release of pollutants into the environment through the use of AI-based predictive systems.
The project initiated by the Aquarno Consortium in Santa Croce sull’Arno (Pisa), in the heart of the tanning district, also aims to reduce electricity consumption (by up to 25 percent) and environmental impact through greater control of the biological purification process and extreme events such as flooding.
The entire system, the first of its kind, is expected to become fully operational by July 2025. The plant operated by Aquarno treats urban and industrial wastewater for more than two million inhabitants from four municipalities and hundreds of tanning companies: it receives wastewater with high concentrations of sulfides, salts and recalcitrant substances. The adopted system integrates readings from more than 60 sensors (flow rate, pH, salinity, dissolved oxygen, temperature, organic load), along with more than 250 analytical parameters that are analyzed daily at the laboratory, and processes them with machine learning models that can predict scenarios, flag anomalies, and support operator decisions in choices ranging from the use of compressors for oxygenation to the adjustment of chemical reagents and stormwater management.
