Turning waste into something new to wear. That’s what’s happening in the laboratories of Vapesol, a Portuguese specialist in the production of soles that has decided to take the word ‘circularity’ seriously.
As part of the FAIST Programme and in collaboration with the Centro Tecnológico do Calçado (CTCP), the company is developing three lines of innovation that have a common denominator: recovering industrial waste considered problematic and transforming it into high-performance soles.
EVA FROM EVA. The first project addresses a technical paradox: ethylene vinyl acetate is a cross-linked polymer that is traditionally very difficult to recycle, yet its production generates mountains of waste. Vapesol is developing specific grinding and reprocessing techniques to reintegrate these residues into new soles, while maintaining their comfort and performance properties.
LEATHER IN SOLES. The most disruptive innovation concerns the development of TPU and EVA soles that incorporate tannery waste – yes, the very leather that would otherwise end up in landfill. The high inclusion rate achieved exceeds current industry standards, opening up new scenarios for the supply chain.
RECYCLED NITRILE. Third front: rubber soles that incorporate nitrile residues from external production processes, such as disposable gloves. A material that no one had thought to exploit in footwear.
Vapesol is not simply recycling: it is re-engineering the very concept of the sole, demonstrating that sustainability and performance can coexist.
Among the new features is a new resin 3D printer that allows the creation of flexible and ‘wearable’ sole prototypes: a new way of thinking about footwear, even at the prototyping stage.ù
And, one more thing, a new machine (the second of its kind in Europe to date) that allows the moulding of two-colour EVA soles for products with cutting-edge performance, particularly in terms of lightness, but with an added focus on style and design.
During the “Welcome to the industry of the future!” conference promoted by APICCAPS, a visit was also made to Kyaia, one of Portugal’s leading footwear groups. Although it did not take part in the FAIST project, Kyaia was part of the Bioshoes4all programme, another important project, which has just been completed, that aimed to revolutionise the world of Portuguese footwear production by promoting the adoption of sustainable materials.
It is fair to say that there is a common thread linking the cork used in Asportuguesas flip-flops to the robotisation of a pilot line for eco-products: it is called strategic consistency. The Kyaia Group seems to have turned it into a method. Founded in 1984 in Guimarães, the company has built an ecosystem that goes far beyond shoe production, integrating distribution, retail, real estate and information technology. Today, it exports to over 70 countries with brands such as Fly London, Softinos, Foreva and Fred & Frederico.
Participation in the BioShoes4All project represents the natural evolution of this vision. The programme, coordinated by CTCP and led by APICCAPS, brings together 70 partners, including companies, research centres and universities, with a total investment of €72.7 million and €41 million in funding. The goal is ambitious: to steer the entire Portuguese footwear supply chain towards the bioeconomy and the circular economy.
For Kyaia, involvement has meant working on biomaterials and solutions for the valorisation of production residues. It is not just theory: the project involves the implementation of industrial pilot lines and the development of advanced technologies such as automation, robotisation and recycling. A process that will be completed by the end of 2025, but whose effects promise to redesign the very way we conceive of shoes.
Coordinating a consortium does not simply mean chairing meetings: it means charting the course. And that is exactly what Carité – Calçados, a Portuguese company specialising in private label production for major international brands, is doing by taking the lead in the FAIST Agenda.
The programme is structured around three key areas. The first concerns intelligent automation: Carité is developing an integrated and flexible production line, equipped with a conveyor synchronised with injection machines, pallets with RFID traceability and a thermal tunnel for stabilisation. This is complemented by the High Frequency Fusion Cell, a technology that fuses multi-layer fabrics and TPU films directly into the uppers, drastically reducing manual operations.
On the sustainability front, the company is collaborating on the development of multifunctional bioplastic coatings for insoles and uppers, capable of offering UV protection, moisture control and antifungal properties. At the same time, work is underway on eco-friendly packaging derived from tanning waste and 3D-printed shoe moulds that are recyclable and adaptable to different stages of production.
Finally, digitalisation: from the Visualgest system for AI-based planning, to the eCODICEC cloud platform designed to ensure data confidentiality in a highly competitive market, to the artificial vision systems mounted on cutting machines.
Bolflex, a Portuguese company specialising in rubber soles and a partner of the FAIST consortium, has developed: R-Skin.
The project stems from a simple question: is it possible to transform industrial waste from different sources into a material that can replace leather? The answer, it seems, is yes. But beware: we are not talking about yet another ‘green’ alternative destined to remain confined to laboratories. R-Skin is a sheet material designed to enter the footwear supply chain directly with real industrial requirements.
The heart of the innovation lies in the formulation. Combining waste from different applications poses a significant technical challenge: each type of waste has different characteristics, and the goal is to maximise their use without compromising durability, flexibility and aesthetic appeal. This is where intensive industrial design work comes into play, aimed at optimising every variable in the process.
The tests conducted evaluate the performance of the material on concrete parameters: how resistant it is, how it bends, what it looks like. Because in the world of footwear – let’s not beat around the bush – a sustainable material that does not stand up to market testing remains an academic exercise.
AMF-Toworkfor, a world leader in safety footwear, is turning the acronym FAIST into a tangible reality. Innovative injection processes on uppers and high-frequency fusion of parts. Reducing production steps and improving product durability.
It starts with Fusion Cell injection: a dual-station system with a dual-density polyurethane injector that allows simultaneous moulding of soles and bonding of uppers. Translated: where multiple steps were previously required, now a single step is sufficient. The reverse mould configuration, with mould rotation to inject different parts of the shoe, integrates high-precision mixing, real-time monitoring and IoT sensors. The result? Uniform dosing, better adhesion, drastically reduced times and costs.
But the innovation does not stop there. The High Frequency Fusion Cell represents an evolutionary leap in upper production: sequential pressing that combines heat, cold stabilisation and high-frequency moulding. Multi-layer fabrics, TPU films, reinforcements and decorations are fused directly into the uppers, reducing manual operations and ensuring resistance to thermal, chemical and mechanical stress.
The third pillar is digitalisation. In collaboration with Softideia, AMF has developed Assembly Line Production Management 4.0: real-time order tracking, automated classification and intelligent workflows. A system that does not shy away from micro-orders, but rather processes them with the same efficiency as large orders.
For a company that supplies private labels to major international players in the sector, this triple revolution is not just a simple technological upgrade. It is a concrete response to a market that demands the highest quality, total flexibility and short lead times.
From 30% to 3%: this is the collapse in European footwear production over the last thirty years. A figure that weighs heavily and provided the backdrop for the discussion between César Araújo (ANIVEC), João Maia (APICCAPS) and Kerstin Jorna (DG Grow).
“The Portuguese footwear industry is a success story, combining tradition with technology,” said Jorna in a video message. This optimism is understandable, but it clashes with a much harsher reality.
The influx of Asian players has upset the global balance. Yet, as Maia points out, Europe has managed to retain “the stages of added value: the creative process, brand management and the production of more prestigious footwear”. In other words, that remaining 3% is made up of excellence, premium products and luxury. Portugal, Spain and Italy are holding out thanks to their skills and know-how.
But resistance is not enough. The crucial issue is unfair competition. “Europe allows third countries to use the European market without applying the same rules that industries on the Old Continent have to comply with,” Araújo complains. He adds: “We are also facing the biggest tax fraud of the 21st century,” with non-European operators circumventing customs duties and VAT.
The regulatory response? Slow. Maia confirms that the European Commission will intervene, but only in 2028. Too late for those competing today.
And reindustrialisation? We have often described it as the great return of factories close to consumer markets. The reality is more nuanced: production is shifting to other, more competitive Asian countries. The real challenge, according to Maia, is “bringing production to Europe where our skills can generate competitive businesses.”
Araújo concludes with a vision: “European industry must transform itself, focusing on value-added products and the circular economy.” Provided that the rules apply to everyone.
“We live in a very polarised world,” said Sergio Dulio of UITIC during the FAIST round table moderated by Luís Moura. A phrase that accurately captures the current state of global footwear production: on the one hand, the mass market; on the other, the niche market. In between, a sea of questions about the future.
The panel, which brought together Carrie Howles from What the Future, Cristiano Figueiredo from CTCP and Dulio himself, addressed the crucial issue: how can we truly innovate in a sector where tradition and craftsmanship are still fundamental values?
There is no single answer. According to Dulio, there will be no room for large-scale expansion in terms of volume, but rather for “consolidation and diversification through innovation and the adoption of new technologies”. Figueiredo, on the other hand, pointed to the concrete obstacles that are holding back Portuguese manufacturers: high costs, a lack of skills and, above all, the need for in-depth self-analysis. “It’s not enough to buy a machine,” he stressed. “You have to understand what to automate and train people accordingly.”
Carrie Howles’ perspective on 3D printing is interesting: it is generating great enthusiasm among younger generations “who do not feel the need to perform certain tasks that are considered essential by more experienced people”. They believe that “technology can be used to produce shoes in a different way, which leads us to critically analyse our processes, looking for new ways and means to minimise the negative impact of certain tasks on workers.”
This concept was reiterated by Figueiredo: “Human beings must adapt to technology, but technology must be designed with people at its core.” Not replacement, therefore, but retraining. Yesterday’s workers can become tomorrow’s robot operators.
Finally, Dulio classified companies into three categories according to their ability to adopt innovation: the convinced, the cautious observers and the explorers. Each at their own pace, but with a shared certainty: innovating means changing the business model, not just buying technology.
“Creating robots for cars is child’s play compared to creating them for footwear.” This is not a provocation, but the most effective summary of a challenge that the European footwear sector is facing with increasing urgency. During the conference “From Automation to Robotics” promoted by APICCAPS as part of the event “Welcome to the industry of the future”, the debate laid bare an uncomfortable truth: those who do not invest in technology risk no longer being able to produce in Europe. Participants in the round table discussion included Vítor Almeida – Tropimática, Albano Fernandes – AMF, Ricardo Costa – Rodiro, and Ventura Correia – Carité.
CUSTOMISED ROBOTS, NOT PRE-PACKAGED SOLUTIONS
Robotics that is useful in the footwear industry is advanced robotics: it must continuously adapt to products that vary greatly and to collections that change at least twice a year. Robots must be adapted to the reality of the factory, and internal technicians are needed who are capable of constantly reprogramming them. Leather is never the same as it was the day before.
PEOPLE, NOT REPLACEMENTS
An apparent paradox: despite automation, the need for workers is growing. The key lies in balance. Robots must be a complement, freeing people up for the stages with greater added value. Portuguese companies that have already adopted a good level of automation have found that robotisation requires more people, who are more efficient and less worn out. But beware: you need to invest in professionals who are prepared for the challenge of changing processes.
THE REAL COST? THE TRANSITION
The biggest cost of automation is not the machines, but the reorganisation required to make them work. Thirty years ago, technology was expensive and complex; today it is no longer so. But every factory has different needs, and the introduction of automated processes requires careful planning. You also need to be prepared for failure, because something will go wrong and you will have to change course.
A MATTER OF SURVIVAL
A qualified young person is no longer willing to brush glue eight hours a day. That is the reality. If factories do not become more technological in order to attract young talent, they will not succeed. Portugal, and Europe, will continue to be successful when they manage to reconcile automation and know-how. New professions must emerge: programming, CAD, CAM. Anyone who thinks that a robot automatically means higher quality, higher quantity and fewer people is mistaken.
Some revolutions are silent: they flow quietly like a red line on a graph, and by the time we notice them, they have already changed the world. This was the case with China’s entry into the WTO in 2001: an event that, as Vasco Rodrigues, professor at the Catholic University, recalls, “led to a significant change in the global footwear trade”. Since then, Chinese exports have more than doubled in the first five years, reshaping the supply chains and strategies of major international manufacturers.
The domino effect was rapid: with the certainty of being able to easily export from China to any market, companies moved their production to Asia. Today, the Asian continent produces 90% of the 24 billion pairs of shoes made each year. Each major manufacturing country — China, India, Vietnam, Indonesia, Pakistan — produces more than the whole of Europe, which accounts for just 2.3% of global production.
Consumption also tells a story of geographical imbalance: Asia is once again in the lead, while the European population buys four pairs a year, North America five, and Africa only one. It is precisely the African continent, still almost unexplored commercially, that represents the most dynamic frontier: its population will grow by 60% by 2050, while Europe will be the only area in demographic decline.
Alongside structural factors, Rodrigues highlighted three forces that are changing demand: comfort, environmental awareness and consumer confidence in the product. Technology is also emerging as a decisive lever for redesigning processes, services and business models.
However, the economic scenario is not without turbulence: fragmentation of geopolitical blocs, near-shoring, uneven growth between regions, the risk of crisis in China, and high volatility in geopolitical forecasts. Slow growth is expected in Europe, while the future direction of the United States remains uncertain.
Where there are more feet, there will be more shoes. But the real challenge will be to understand which shoes, where to produce them and how to sell them. The footwear industry is entering a phase where nothing is guaranteed and everything is possible.
There is a paradox that runs through the global footwear industry, and the Portuguese have understood it better than anyone else: at a time when almost 24 billion pairs of shoes are produced every year, 88% of which are concentrated in Asia, the future could be written by those who produce less but produce better. This is the challenge that Portugal is throwing down to the global industry, armed with technology, tradition and a strategic vision that few other European countries can boast.
«We do not believe that this situation is sustainable; on the contrary, we believe that there is room in the market for players such as Portugal», said Luís Onofre, president of APICCAPS, the association of Portuguese footwear, component and leather goods manufacturers. A statement that sounds like a programme manifesto, not just a simple declaration of intent.
The figures speak for themselves: in 2024, the Portuguese footwear cluster achieved exports worth €2.1 billion, with 68 million pairs sold in 170 different countries. Exports account for 90% of national production, with Germany, France and the Netherlands as the main European markets. But it is in the United States that Portugal has recorded its most impressive performance: 109% growth over the last decade, with over €90 million worth of footwear exported in 2024 alone.
Behind these results is an industrial strategy that combines craftsmanship excellence and cutting-edge technology. And the beating heart of this transformation is called FAIST: Fábrica Ágil, Inteligente, Sustentável e Tecnológica.
THE FAIST REVOLUTION: ANATOMY OF A €50 MILLION PROJECT
When it comes to industrial innovation, we too often get lost in empty slogans and promises that are never kept. The FAIST project, on the other hand, represents something different: a concrete investment of €50 million, part of the Portuguese Recovery and Resilience Plan (PRR), involving 45 co-promoters including footwear companies, component manufacturers, software developers and scientific and technological institutions.
Coordinated by the Portuguese Footwear Technology Centre (CTCP) and led by Carité as consortium leader, FAIST has set itself ambitious but measurable goals. «The aim is for the Portuguese footwear industry to remain at the forefront and consolidate its position as the most modern in the world», says Luís Onofre with conviction. This is not rhetoric: it is the translation of numbers into vision.
The project was created to respond to the concrete needs of the sector: to prepare the industry for future challenges by investing in digital technologies, process and product sustainability, with the aim of achieving greater efficiency and profitability, rapid response to the market, better working conditions and product differentiation.
Florbela Silva, FAIST project coordinator and director of the CTCP’s Innovation and Digital Manufacturing Unit, points out that 75% of the project has already been completed. «The market is evolving and we must keep pace with this change, both in the way we produce and in the products we offer», explains Silva. This statement encapsulates the essence of an industry that is not content to merely survive but wants to drive change.
The philosophy behind FAIST is that while Portuguese companies are already recognised for their ability to innovate and produce small orders efficiently, now is the time to optimise processes and improve efficiency to ensure further gains in competitiveness. In particular, the sector will acquire the skills to produce on a larger scale, innovating throughout the entire production chain, from component manufacturing to the creation of modular assembly units.
RESULTS IN FIGURES: FROM THE LABORATORY TO THE FACTORY
A project of this magnitude is measured by concrete results. And FAIST can already boast impressive figures.
In terms of technological solutions, the consortium has committed to developing over 30 innovative machines and equipment, more than 20 software solutions, 5 integrated production lines and over 15 innovative products, including footwear and components. In addition, there are 3 pilot units for testing and demonstrating new technologies, which will serve as test and training sites for human resources in the sector.
But FAIST is not just about technology: it is also about human capital. According to Florbela Silva, the project will generate 300 new jobs, 100 of which will be highly skilled. This figure overturns the common misconception that automation destroys jobs, showing instead how innovation can create quality employment.
The project also focuses on knowledge sharing: over 130 dissemination actions, more than 10 webinars, 30 podcasts, 10 videos and over 80 training actions are planned. A learning ecosystem involving universities, polytechnics, technology centres and companies, creating the synergy between research and production that is the real driver of innovation.
On the sustainability front, the goals are equally ambitious: a 50% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions and a 100% increase in the use of renewable energy.
Kyaia factory
FROM AUTOMATION TO ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE: INNOVATIONS THAT ARE CHANGING THE INDUSTRY
While the numbers reveal the scale of the project, it is the individual innovations that reveal its revolutionary scope. FAIST has created an ecosystem of solutions covering the entire footwear value chain, from design to logistics, from production to training. Here are just a few examples.
Digital platforms for integrated management
One of the most significant innovations is eCODICEC, a digital ecosystem for the footwear business community. It is a private cloud platform specifically designed for the sector, which aims to systematise and integrate documents, processes and communications within organisations. The goal is to create a culture of digital collaboration based on three pillars: fluid internal communication, agile digital processes and cybersecurity.
Alongside eCODICEC, the SADIC (Footwear Industry Performance Evaluation System) is another fundamental component. By integrating performance evaluation into process management, it ensures consistency, transparency and administrative efficiency, transforming what was once a paper-based HR procedure into a true strategic management tool.
Intelligent production management
Visualgest’s planning module represents the state of the art in strategic and anticipatory production management. Leveraging real-time data and artificial intelligence, it efficiently allocates resources in the factory, forecasts needs and dynamically adjusts processes. The system centralises information and integrates workflows, simplifying complex decisions into concrete actions and ensuring uninterrupted production flow.
For warehouse management, the WMS (Warehouse Management System) developed by JPM offers a modular web-based platform for automated operations. Built with a modern architecture, it supports project and item-level tracking, intelligent stock allocation, QR and DataMatrix labelling, and even 3D visualisation of the warehouse. The system manages both “visible” and “invisible” materials, improving stock utilisation and reducing unnecessary purchases.
Personalised training with artificial intelligence
TUTORIC represents a revolution in the field of professional training. It is an e-learning platform that uses advanced digital content (videos, simulations, animations and interactive quizzes) to fill the skills gaps of footwear company employees. The platform uses artificial intelligence to define personalised training paths for each employee, allowing many workers to be trained simultaneously without the need for physical space, respecting factory shifts and ensuring uniformity in training content.
Advanced Product Lifecycle Management
Mind’s PLM (Product Life Management) solution represents the evolution of PDM systems, designed to centralise product lifecycle data across design, manufacturing and supply chain. It introduces modular workflows for approvals, document versioning, change management and secure data exchange between systems. Built with a scalable backend, the platform supports both legacy and new applications with minimal operational disruption.
A MODEL FOR EUROPE: BETWEEN REINDUSTRIALISATION AND SUSTAINABILITY
«The footwear sector has always set itself the goal of becoming a leading international benchmark», recalls Luís Onofre. «Now is the time to prepare for a new decade of growth by strengthening skills, accelerating the integration of new skilled workers into companies and increasing investment in R&D to deliver highly differentiated products».
The Portuguese Footwear Cluster Strategic Plan 2030 sets ambitious goals: to become the international benchmark for the footwear industry, to strengthen Portuguese exports by combining sophistication and creativity with production efficiency, based on technological development and international value chain management, thus ensuring the future of a sustainable and highly competitive national production base.
To achieve these goals, the sector plans to invest €600 million by 2030. In addition to FAIST’s €50 million, other major investments are already underway: €60 million in the BioShoes4All project, focused on the development of more sustainable materials, products and processes, and €80 million in the bioeconomy.
A LOOK TO THE FUTURE
We started with the question that runs through all reflection on the global footwear industry: is it reasonable that almost 90% of world production is concentrated in Asia? Is this model sustainable?
Portugal has chosen to respond with facts, not words. It has chosen to differentiate itself in one of the most competitive industries in the world, not through geography or raw materials, but through knowledge, tradition, craftsmanship and quality.
«We have created an entire ecosystem in Portugal that promotes production innovation and strengthens the link between universities and companies», says Florbela Silva. For the FAIST project coordinator, the Portuguese footwear industry is already one of the most advanced in the world, but the ambition remains unchanged: to continue to grow, innovate and set new standards.
The rest of Europe is watching closely. In an era of geopolitical tensions, fragmented supply chains and a growing focus on sustainability, the Portuguese model could be the answer that European manufacturing has been looking for.
VISITING THE FACTORIES OF THE FUTURE
The FAIST project is not just theory: it can be seen first-hand by visiting the companies that are implementing the new technologies. During the “Welcome to the Industry of the Future” event, held at the Palácio da Bolsa in Porto on 18 and 19 November 2025, international journalists had the opportunity to attend conferences, but also to visit some of the most innovative companies in the Portuguese manufacturing district. These visits allowed them to see first-hand the automated production lines, RFID tracking systems, innovative workstations and software solutions developed as part of FAIST.
AMF Safety Shoes – Founded in 1999, the company started out providing outsourcing services to local factories, before becoming a world-leading manufacturer of safety footwear. Through the TOWORKFOR brand and private label projects for major European brands, AMF is now an example of how tradition and innovation can coexist.
Bolflex – Since 1991, the company has been dedicated to building lasting partnerships, specialising in the production and processing of footwear components, mainly rubber soles.
Carité – Leader of the FAIST project, it focuses on high-quality products and an aggressive commercial approach on international markets. Since 1995, it has exported virtually all of its production to a clientele made up of major international brands, which purchase footwear under their own brand names.
Kyaia – Founded in 1984 by Fortunato Frederico, it leads a group with over 600 employees and a turnover of €55 million. Its business model extends beyond footwear production to include distribution, retail, real estate and information technology.
Vapesol – Specialising in the production of soles for the footwear industry, Vapesol was founded in 1998 out of a passion for soles and a desire to innovate. Today, it is a leader in the sector, with a constant focus on product quality and customer satisfaction.
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APICCAPS CELEBRATES 50 YEARS – HALF A CENTURY OF HISTORY AND INNOVATION
2025 marks a historic milestone for APICCAPS, the Portuguese Association of Footwear, Components and Leather Goods Manufacturers: fifty years since its foundation in Porto in 1975.
Founded during a period of profound change for Portugal – just a few months after the Carnation Revolution of 1974 – APICCAPS has accompanied the Portuguese footwear industry on an extraordinary journey: from the labour-intensive production of the 1970s to the premium positioning of the 2000s, to the technological and sustainable leadership of today.
Today, the association represents around 500 companies, responsible for 80% of Portuguese production. The sectors covered include the footwear industry, components, leather goods (bags, wallets, gloves, belts) and machinery for the sectors.
Its main areas of action include internationalisation, research and consulting, technical support, professional training, technology and innovation. The promotional campaign “The Sexiest Industry in Europe” has helped to reposition Portuguese products globally, while the World Footwear Yearbook has become a benchmark for global industry analysis.
Under the presidency of Luís Onofre, an internationally renowned designer, APICCAPS has led the largest investment cycle in the history of the Portuguese footwear industry: €120 million over the last three years in automation, robotics and sustainability.
“It’s time to rewrite history” is the motto of the international campaign launched by the association. After half a century, APICCAPS continues to look ahead, convinced that the future of footwear is being built today, one step at a time.
