Arsutoria Studio
Arsutoria Studio

LINEAPELLE 107: synergies, research and innovation

There was a palpable sense of reassuring energy and vitality at the latest edition of LINEAPELLE, the 107th edition, despite the fact that the dates had to be brought forward due to the use of parts of the Fiera Milano Rho venue for some of the venues of the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games, which led to a reduction in the number of trade visitors (around 16,000) from 99 countries. On the exhibitor front, 848 companies took part (436 tanneries, 290 accessory suppliers, 95 synthetic material suppliers, 27 others) from 33 countries, presenting their new collections of leathers, materials and accessories for the 2027 summer season.

Innovation and the search for materials and solutions capable of expressing a very high degree of naturalness and sophisticated craftsmanship throughout the supply chain were the key areas of focus for buyers, visitors and the LINEAPELLE projects. This was evident in the 22 installations in the INTERIORS area, a creative platform now in its third edition that fosters links between design firms and leather and materials manufacturers.

There was also great interest in the talks scheduled at the Fashion & Science Theatre: ranging from sector-specific sessions (such as in-depth discussions on regulatory and technical issues relating to the leather supply chain) to more fashion-focused events, such as the conversation between journalist Mariella Milani and designer Antonio Marras.

A significant development was the debut of a new trade fair partnership with FILO – the leading exhibition for the yarn and fibre sector – which gave visitors an even broader overview of the product range on offer.

The next edition of LINEAPELLE is scheduled for 15 to 17 September 2026, once again at the Fiera Milano Rho exhibition centre.

TFL announces fare increases

Specialty chemicals company TFL announced that it will introduce temporary surcharges on freight and product costs with immediate effect. “The measure addresses the sustained disruptions and increased expenses in global logistics and raw material supply chains resulting from the ongoing conflict in the Gulf region”.

And furthermore: “The surcharge levels depend on product group, manufacturing site, and shipping route. They will remain in place until the market situation stabilizes and will be reviewed regularly”.
TFL is working closely with its partners to ensure supply reliability and to minimize the impact of these exceptional external factors on customers.

Winners of the “Design-a-Bag” 2026 announced

As is tradition, the Design-A-Bag 2026 competition concluded with the final awards ceremony on March 12 during APLF 2026 in Hong Kong. The jury crowned Phan Nguyen Hoai Thuong, from Vietnam, the overall winner for her inspiring and versatile creation, “The Unbowed Bag,” a symbol of resilience in chaos that represents strength, composure, and an indomitable spirit.
Hoai Thuong is a design student at Hoa Sen University, and “The Unbowed Bag” is actually her very first project, making her achievement all the more incredible.
The prize includes a 4-week course in Collection Development at the Arsutoria School in Milan, valued at 4,500 euros, along with a 1,000-euro contribution toward housing.
Second place went to Zhuo Wei Si from China for her practical and functional creation, called “Berlin Bag.” Zhuo Wei Si will receive an 8-day training course at Simona Tanning’s L.E.A.T.H.E.R Academy in Ninh Binh, Vietnam.
Third place went to Nilgun Demirhan from Turkey for her innovative yoga bag, a project titled “BELONGING.” With her talent and creativity, she designed a bag that perfectly blends athleisure style with her lifestyle.
All three finalists will receive a cash prize of $500 and a one-year subscription to www.arstrends.com and the “ARSUTORIASTUDIO” Trends Guide, valued at $550.

This year’s competition benefited from a carefully curated judging panel that brought together diverse perspectives from across the fashion and leather industry. Each judge evaluated the entries through a unique lens, ensuring a comprehensive, versatile and balanced assessment. This multifaceted approach elevated the standard of judging and provided invaluable insights for all participants.
* Mr. Olivier Vedrine, Architect-Designer & Production Designer of OO Agency Paris: Bringing a designer’s eye for creativity and artistic vision
* Mr. Stefano Migliavacca, International Projects Manager of Edizioni AF: Representing media expertise with a focus on innovation and industry trends
* Ms. Alane Becker Marder, Head of Marketing & Sustainability of Simona Tanning: Offering a tannery perspective on practicality, quality, and sustainability
* Mr. Ard-ong Winyoopradist,  Director and CMO, Xotique Company Limited: Providing brand owner insights on marketability and commercial viability

Registration for DAB 2027 will open in September of this year.

The three finalists and the judges of the Design a Bag 2026 Competition at the awards ceremony during APLF on March 12
The project that won first prize, by Phan Nguyen Hoai Thuong of Vietnam
The design by Berlin Bag, which took second place
Third place went to Nilgun Demirhan for her innovative yoga bag
The Cogon Bag won the Facebook Award

Vibram Essential: when less is more—the ultimate form of innovation

The more technology we add underfoot, the more we risk forgetting how the foot actually works. Vibram knows this well — eighty years of high-performance soles provide a unique insight into the way we walk, run and inhabit the world. And it is precisely from this deep understanding that Vibram Essential is born, the new SS27 collection presented during Milan Fashion Week in an immersive exhibition space on Corso Garibaldi.

Less is more. But only if you know exactly what you’re taking away. The name Essential, in fact, is not a minimalist marketing exercise, it is a statement of method. The philosophy behind the collection stems from a radical idea: minimalism is not simply about reducing the thickness of the sole, but about initiating a progressive process of reducing structural intervention, restoring the foot’s natural biomechanics. Eliminating the superfluous, improving ground feel, restoring freedom of movement.

Rooted in Vibram FiveFingers’ decades of experience, the Essential line is structured across three coherent evolutionary levels. The first is Low-Drop, featuring a slight drop between heel and forefoot: designed as a gateway to minimalism, it combines structural support with a natural stride. The second level, Minimal Soles, interprets everyday urban life with a sleek, snug fit, contemporary in style without compromising on functionality. The third and purest is Barefoot-Inspired Constructions/Comfort: a wide anatomical shape, zero-drop constructions, total freedom for the midfoot and forefoot. The truest expression of barefoot living.

Adding depth — cultural depth, not the thickness of the sole — to the collection are the collaborations: Buttero, Lemaire, Fabiana Filippi, Harmont&Blaine, Primigi and other brands have reinterpreted the concepts of FF CUP and Minimal Fashion according to their own codes. A dialogue between worlds that confirms just how versatile Vibram technology is: from the mountains to the catwalk, from performance to urban aesthetics.

The step that matters is the one towards footwear that stops compensating and starts listening. With 40 million soles produced every year and a presence in 120 countries, Vibram demonstrates that innovation, at times, means having the courage to take a step back, to walk much better.


Winds of war were blowing over APLF, which nonetheless outperformed expectations 

A climate of deep uncertainty characterized the latest edition of APLF in Hong Kong, which opened on March 12, just ten days after the Israeli-American attack on Iran. Against this backdrop, with the Middle East under attack by Pasdaran missiles, numerous flights with stopovers in the Emirates were canceled, forcing many industry professionals to reschedule their trips at the last minute. Despite such a critical geopolitical context, however, the fair recorded decent results, significantly better than expected, confirming its status as the premier meeting place for the global leather industry. International exhibitors participated in strong numbers, and visitors—primarily from Asia—also responded positively, though with some inevitable dropouts, especially from overseas.
With 500 exhibitors from 36 countries and regions, APLF 2026 maintained a strong international focus, albeit in a more compact format than in the past. A choice that reflects a particularly complex year for the sector globally, marked by economic slowdowns and adjustments, but which also made it possible to bring all exhibitors together on a single level of the exhibition center.

The 2026 edition also introduced a revamped and more functional exhibition layout: all sections—leather, materials, and fashion accessories—have been consolidated in the Level 1 pavilion. “This decision promotes integration across the various stages of the supply chain, enhancing the visitor experience and fostering more concrete business opportunities,” explain the organizers.
In terms of national participation, after China, represented by 113 companies, Italy stood out with 104 firms, followed by France (38), Brazil (33), and Turkey (26). There were two Italian group pavilions in the main Leather section: one for tanners united under the umbrella of UNIC, with 44 participants, and one for tanning machinery manufacturers and chemical auxiliary producers coordinated by ASSOMAC and ITA, with 33 companies, in addition to several individual exhibitors.
Immediate feedback highlights greater satisfaction among tanneries, which reported renewed interest from visitors seeking new products. The impressions of machinery manufacturers and chemical suppliers, however, were more lukewarm, as they were penalized by uncertainty in the international market, which is holding back investment.

Despite a 10.5% decline in exports in 2025—amounting to $75 billion in the leather, footwear, and accessories sectors—China remains the global leader in the industry. The country maintains undisputed leadership in both production volume and value, continuing to require substantial imports of raw materials to sustain its industrial capacity.
In this context, Hong Kong further strengthens its central role. As highlighted by APLF Director Janice Lee, the city stands out for its operational stability, open trade environment, and efficient infrastructure—elements that make it an ideal hub for companies seeking access not only to the Chinese market but also to the emerging economies of Southeast Asia. It is precisely in this region that some of the most interesting developments are taking place. Vietnam and Indonesia are emerging as rapidly expanding markets. Vietnam, supported by foreign investment and international trade agreements, has established itself as a manufacturing hub for footwear and leather goods. Indonesia, thanks to a large domestic market and an already developed supply chain, ranks among the region’s leading consumers. It is no coincidence that the next edition of APLF ASEAN will be held here, scheduled for Jakarta in November 2026.

In addition to its commercial aspect, APLF 2026 reaffirmed its role as a platform for dialogue and innovation, thanks to a rich program of conferences, seminars, and workshops dedicated to the industry’s future challenges: sustainability, production efficiency, and new market strategies. Among the most popular events was the presentation of the Italian project “The Leather Leaders,” focused on collaboration between Italian tanneries and international brands and aimed at scientifically measuring the environmental impact of leather. The session, introduced by President Fabrizio Nuti, included a mini-roundtable featuring testimonials from three tanners involved in the project.
In an international context that continues to evolve, the message emerging from APLF 2026 is clear: the leather industry is looking ahead, focusing on collaboration, innovation, and an increasingly integrated presence in Asian markets.
The next edition is already on the calendar and will take place from March 31 to April 2, 2027.

A moment from the opening ceremony of APLF2026
From left: Christophe Dehard, President of Alliance France Cuir (AFC); Janice Lee, Director of APLF Ltd.; and Michael Duck, Executive Vice President of Business Development at Informa Markets
A section of the group exhibition featuring Italian tanneries organized by UNIC
A glimpse of the Italian group exhibition coordinated by ITA ASSOMAC
A moment from the presentation of the UNIC “Leather Leaders” project

Leather Chemists: The Freiberg Leather Days Will Be Held in Münster

The 14th edition of the Freiberger Leather Days, one of the most anticipated events for professionals in the German and European leather industry, will take place on July 1 and 2, 2026, at the Mövenpick Hotel in Münster. The event, organized as always by the German Association of Leather Chemists (VGCT) and the Filk Institute, promises to be an opportunity for discussion and updates on technological innovations, sustainability, and future prospects for the leather sector.
A highlight of the program is the presentation by Professor Thomas Scholten of the University of Tübingen, who will deliver a lecture on global and regional nitrogen cycles and their impact on livestock farming. A recognized expert in soil science and sustainable land use systems, Scholten will offer a scientific perspective on an issue of growing relevance to the entire production chain.
Meanwhile, the organizers have announced a 14-day extension for the submission of presentation proposals: researchers, companies, and professionals will have until March 31, 2026, to submit their contributions. Among the areas of greatest interest are new technologies for leather production, advances in analytical and characterization techniques, the use of sustainable raw materials, as well as the automation and digitization of industrial processes.
There will also be a focus on transformations within the supply chain and innovative applications, with particular attention to the role of craftsmanship in the era of Industry 4.0. The goal is to foster an open dialogue between research and industry at a time of profound change for the sector.
In addition to the scientific program, the event will also offer opportunities for informal networking, including a pedal boat rally on Lake Aasee and various social activities designed to facilitate interaction among participants in a relaxed setting.
For further information
https://www.eventclass.it/ledertage2026/welcome/index

World Leather Day is celebrated on April 29

With just over six weeks to go until World Leather Day 2026, scheduled for April 29, the international tanning industry is preparing to send a strong, unified message. The theme chosen for this year’s edition, “Make It Leather,” represents much more than a slogan: it is a genuine call to action directed at the entire supply chain.
The initiative, promoted by Leather Naturally, aims to bring together companies, partners, designers, students, and consumers around a key principle: making conscious and responsible choices regarding materials. A paradigm shift marking the transition from a volume-based approach to one grounded in value, from a throwaway culture to one of durability, leading to consumption less influenced by trends and more oriented toward quality and artisanal tradition.
The message is clear: raising awareness is no longer enough; it is time to act. “Make It Leather” serves as a call to action to reaffirm the value of leather as a durable and responsible material.

Ahead of April 29, the organization is inviting the entire sector to actively participate, taking advantage of the opportunities offered in the weeks leading up to the event. Leather Naturally members will also have access to a comprehensive toolkit of visual resources designed to support the campaign and amplify its impact.
With “Make It Leather,” World Leather Day 2026 aims to become not only a celebration of the sector but also a turning point for redefining the industry’s priorities in a more sustainable and enduring way.

Further info https://www.leathernaturally.org/worldleatherday/

DOGO: wearable art, blending colour and sustainability

Founded in 2006, DOGO revolutionised the footwear industry by introducing, for the first time globally, an innovative printing technique on footwear. A journey that has, over time, given rise to a multifaceted universe that now encompasses bags, textiles and travel accessories, uniting an international community of ‘dogo-lovers’ across more than 100 countries.

With a library boasting more than 5,000 original designs, the brand does not merely follow trends, but creates them. Every product is conceived as a wearable work of art: from seasonal colour palettes to inspirations drawn from music, nature and moments of everyday happiness.

But the focus is not solely on aesthetics: DOGO is actively committed to a sustainable future through the use of 100% vegan materials, a production process managed with the utmost environmental sensitivity, and by adopting concrete measures that are compatible with the preservation of global resources.


FRAU SIGNATURE: value you can see

FRAU SIGNATURE was created to complete the identity of the men’s boutique, offering a concrete solution to a real gap in the premium menswear retail market. Today, in fact, the men’s boutique offers style, advice and consistency. But often, when it comes to shoes, the range falls short: too classic, too luxurious or too cheap. FRAU SIGNATURE positions itself as a high-quality, entry-level contemporary formal brand, for a man who seeks not conspicuous logos but value in the details, genuine quality and dedicated packaging. A professional, entrepreneur or manager who perhaps buys less, but better. The product range is streamlined, with no overlap: derbies, loafers, clean-cut lace-ups and a colour palette designed to complement blues, greys, sand and olive green. A carefully curated selection that completes the identity of the store.

Superior-quality leather with a natural grain, selected in smaller pieces to preserve its authenticity and character. Whilst still on the last, it is airbrushed using slow, expert strokes. No two pairs are identical, as every step is carried out by hand. Comfort is ensured not only by the last but also by the iconic removable insole, designed for enhanced comfort. Distinctive details: piping-finished edges, a refined look befitting luxury footwear, embossed FRAU logo, spaced stitching, an overlapping panel with decorative long-stitch detailing, and custom FRAU soles.


Framas Group invests in Vietnam with Gusbi technology

Framas’ strategy has always been to grow its production capacity in countries where its customers, mainly major sports brands, have located their manufacturing facilities. 

For some years now, Vietnam and Indonesia have been the destinations of choice for the most important sports footwear manufacturing groups to set up their large-volume production facilities. It is no secret that companies in the supply chain, such as those that produce uppers for sports shoes and those like framas that produce soles have also chosen to open factories in these countries.

Framas already operates three factories in Vietnam specializing in the production of advanced material components using injection molding technology. The latest development is the installation of two new Gusbi machines, each with 80 stations, at one of the plants, dedicated to the production of midsoles using foam casting technology.

 

The aim is to consolidate its position as a direct supplier to Tier 1 factories – the first point of contact for brands, those who manufacture the finished shoe, receiving components from the level below, known as Tier 2. No longer suppliers of part of the sole, but rather of the entire bottom unit, which can be an assembly of many different components: not only outsoles and midsoles, but also carbon plates, TPU shanks, external counters, etc.

A first full bottom unit project was presented at the Portland trade fair last August, together with partner Synergy in Motion, a Vietnamese company specializing in the production of midsoles with SCF & SEM technology.

 

The new Gusbi technology which allows for casting was developed for PU moulding and is well suited to the production of midsoles using the innovative materials including Liquid TPU (Smartlite-O) technology from Huntsmann.

A typical feature of casting moulding technology is the reduced cycle time, which can be as short as 5/6 seconds, allowing for a productivity of 500/600 pairs of soles per hour on a plant configured like framas’s. The expectation is to increase production capacity to around 2 million pairs of finished soles per year.

 

Casting technology is also well suited to co-moulding, i.e. moulding the midsole directly onto the outsole, which is previously loaded into the mould. By working with materials that have a chemical affinity with each other, it is possible to achieve adhesion between the two parts during the moulding process without the use of adhesives. This obviously reduces manufacturing lead times because it avoids the subsequent bonding step between the midsole and outsole, as well as all the previous stages of preparing the supports, which still mainly use solvent-based chemicals.

 

«We have been working on these technologies for more than three years. Initially, they were installed at the headquarters in Pirmasens, Germany, to fine-tune processes and materials», says Yannik Bauer, Technical PU Expert from framas Group.

Alberto Buffonini, International Sales and Marketing Director at Gusbi, adds: «The machine was custom-built in collaboration with the framas Group team of technicians. We have optimized the technology to the maximum for the type of materials that the company intends to use in this new development.»

 

With this investment, framas Group consolidates its leadership in the sports footwear segment, particularly for performance use, but also paves the way for the manufacture of components for everyday shoes, which are increasingly influenced by best practices from the world of athletics.