Metal accessories are the invisible link between technology, aesthetics and sustainability in the fashion world. Yet, until a few years ago, this essential part of the supply chain lacked a recognised technical voice at international round tables. It was precisely this awareness that led to the creation of the Physis Consortium in 2022, an organisation that today represents a benchmark for the sector thanks to its scientific, coordinated and collaborative approach.

We discuss this with Ester Falletta, Technical Director of the Consortium, who is committed to promoting standardisation, sustainability and innovation projects that are helping to redefine global standards in the sector.

The Physis Consortium is a young but already very active organisation. What are its origins and what goals did it set itself from the outset?

«The Consortium was founded just over two years ago with the aim of creating a solid alliance between companies in the metal accessories supply chain for fashion and luxury goods. The idea was to rethink the very concept of the supply chain: not only those who produce the finished component, but also those who process the raw materials, those who develop the equipment, software and digital support solutions. In such a complex sector, only a systemic approach allows for true innovation.»

In just a few years, you have managed to gain recognition as technical representatives at international tables. What prompted you to embark on this path?

«It all started with an observation: the lack of representation of metal accessories in the places where the rules are written. We were not present in the ISO groups or in the European committees that define ESG and reporting standards. This created real difficulties for companies, which found themselves applying standards designed for other sectors, such as jewellery or automotive.

Today, however, we are directly involved in defining standards, from technical terminology to certification schemes for the sustainability and traceability of precious metals.»

One of the most significant results is the creation of the ISO group dedicated to corrosion testing for metal accessories. Can you explain what this is about?

«It was a fundamental step. Until now, there were no specific technical standards for assessing the durability and quality of metal accessories. Protocols borrowed from other sectors – automotive or watchmaking – were used, with obvious limitations in terms of applicability.

In January 2025, the WG5 – “Resistance testing” working group was set up, which is developing the first international standards for corrosion testing. The first will concern the interaction between metal accessories and leather, followed by resistance to artificial sweat, abrasion resistance, resistance to corrosive atmospheres and drop testing. This is a technical breakthrough that will finally offer clear quality criteria for a strategic sector of Italian manufacturing.»

At the same time, the Consortium is also involved in revising sustainability criteria. What is your role in the European committees?

«We are involved in the work of EFRAG, the committee that defines European rules for sustainability reporting. The voice of metal accessories was completely missing here.

We brought to the attention of the technical group the importance of including our supply chain, because uncalibrated standards risk penalising SMEs, which represent the vast majority of the sector. Our contribution has served to make the rules more concrete and applicable, introducing practical guidelines and real use cases.»

You are also working with ZDHC to develop the MRSL dedicated to metal. Why is this such an important step?

«Because there was a complete lack of a list of banned or restricted chemicals (MRSL) designed for galvanised metal accessories. Companies used lists taken from other sectors – such as leather – with often inadequate results.

With ZDHC, we have begun drafting the “metals” section of the new MRSL, involving chemical formulators, manufacturers and brands. It is a complex but necessary project, because it finally defines specific criteria for our supply chain. We plan to present the first draft by the end of 2025: it will be an operational tool that will enable companies to work in a safer and more transparent way.»

Many companies complain about the proliferation of certifications and audits. You are calling for greater harmonisation of existing schemes. In what sense?

«Today, companies find themselves managing overlapping audits and certifications, often on the same requirements. This is a huge waste of time and resources, even for brands. We are working to promote harmonisation between the various schemes – environment, health and safety, social responsibility and many others – in order to avoid duplication and recognise the validity of controls already carried out. The goal is simple: to make sustainability measurable, but also accessible. We cannot ask SMEs to become “companies that only do audits”.»

Looking ahead, what priorities are you focusing the efforts of the Physis Consortium on?

«We have three guidelines:

– Consolidate the culture of technical sustainability, supporting companies in adapting to new European regulations;
– Promote shared innovation projects, such as those on eco-design and new materials;
– Simplify and harmonise certification tools to lighten the bureaucratic burden and enhance the real quality of companies.

The Consortium will continue to work as a super partes entity, open to all companies in the supply chain, even those that are not members of the consortium. Our mission is to create a system: to build a common technical base that makes the sector more competitive, sustainable and credible at an international level.»

For over a century, the zip fastener has remained unchanged: two rows of teeth, a tab and a fabric tape. Then came YKK. With AiryString, the Japanese company that produces half of the world’s zips has eliminated the superfluous, removing the tape that seemed indispensable. The result is a tape-free zip that is lighter, thinner and softer, able to blend into the fabric instead of overlapping it.

The breakthrough is not aesthetic, but engineering. To compensate for the loss of structure caused by the tape, YKK redesigned the teeth, production process and machinery, developing a dedicated sewing machine with Juki Corp. This system allows the zip to be attached directly to the garment, simplifying production and improving the final result.

Compared to a Vislon® No.5 zip, AiryString is lighter, has less friction and offers smoother sliding. Tests conducted on seven different fabrics show greater softness and a more uniform tactile sensation. In technical or sports garments, such as those by Descente Japan or The North Face, the difference translates into dynamic comfort.

In terms of production, the reduction in materials and sewing steps means less consumption of fibres, dyes and water, with a lower environmental impact. An invisible zip, but tangible in its results: lighter, more flexible, more consistent with the evolution of contemporary materials.

And above all, consistent with the YKK motto: Small parts. Big difference.

Leather smells of earth and time. It tells a story of hands working slowly, of gestures handed down through generations, of patience that takes shape. And when this ancient material meets the vision of a contemporary designer, something rare is born: an authentic “renaissance”, like the one celebrated on 24 September in Milan.

The occasion was special: the Consorzio Cuoio di Toscana, an international leader in the production of sole leather, celebrated its 40th anniversary with the second edition of RI-NASCIMENTO Vol.2, an event that combined style, innovation and Made in Italy culture. The star of the evening was the new Opanka women’s shoe, designed by Diego Dolcini, the feminine evolution of a project that had already conquered the scene with its men’s version.

The shoe uses the traditional Opanka technique, where the sole and upper are fused into a single element. An ancient technique reinterpreted with a modern spirit: the collection features eight colour variations, including nappa leather and laminate, and introduces GAIT-TECH® technology, a patented biomechanical device that guarantees comfort and stability without sacrificing aesthetics. It is the perfect combination of artisan savoir-faire and technological research: tradition that becomes movement, form that becomes function.

“Our goal is to transform tradition into a contemporary language, creating authentic, sustainable and forward-looking products,” commented Antonio Quirici, president of the Consortium. A statement that sums up the mission of Cuoio di Toscana, global spokesperson for a district of excellence in tanning rooted between Santa Croce sull’Arno and San Miniato, where historic companies such as Bonistalli e Stefanelli, Lamonti Cuoio and Volpi Concerie keep alive the slow vegetable tanning process using natural tannins from chestnut, mimosa and quebracho.

In the world of soles, innovation runs light: less impact, more substance. Cirql®, a brand specialising in sustainable materials for the footwear industry, presents Zero36™, the new midsole foam that expands the ‘Zero’ family and offers a concrete alternative to traditional EVA.

Produced in Ho Chi Minh City, Zero36 is the result of a patented supercritical foaming process that is completely free of chemicals and capable of generating a uniform and resistant microcellular structure. The result is a lightweight, elastic and durable foam, composed of 36% bio-based materials and completely biodegradable through industrial composting at the end of its life cycle.

“Companies need solutions that combine comfort, performance and transparency throughout the supply chain”, explains Matt Thwaites, Vice President and General Manager of Cirql®. “With Zero36™, we want to make it easy for brands to build a low-impact, truly circular industry.”

The new material joins rTPU50 – a patented material composed of 50% GRS-certified post-industrial recycled TPU and produced using a chemical-free supercritical foaming process – and completes a range that now includes compostable, biodegradable or fully recyclable components. All Cirql® technologies are third-party tested and protected by over 25 international patents.

The mission is clear: to keep shoes out of landfills and offer the market sustainable, scalable and verifiable options.