Arsutoria Magazine

Servati, the 3D-printed and 100% recyclable sneaker

Founded by Matteo Di Paola and Marco Primiceri, Servati was established in the heart of the Casarano footwear district with the aim of revolutionising the sector through a business model based on the circular economy. Their sneakers, made using 3D printing technology, are composed of only two materials: rubber and polyester; and can be completely disassembled and recycled at the end of their life.
A patent filed in 2022 protects the innovative interlocking system between the sole and upper, which eliminates the use of glues, irreversible seams or chemical solvents. This approach makes it easy to recycle end-of-life materials to produce new footwear or transform them into other fashion accessories, reducing waste.
Following the success of online sales, Servati is now looking to a new phase of growth by targeting entry into wholesale channels, with the aim of bringing its sustainable trainers to physical stores in Italy and abroad.


Nuosmiq: recycled plastic heels and reuse of firefighter uniform fabrics

For the second time, Nuosmiq is participating as an emerging brand at MICAM Milano. Designer and founder Heesoun Qim has developed a methodology that combines artisan design and experimentation with unconventional materials.
Nuosmiq is based on storytelling. Each collection is born from a narrative theme that intertwines with unexpected materials and innovative processes.
At the stand dedicated to Emerging Designers, Nuosmiq presented the ‘City’ collection, in which the heels were made from recycled plastic: a process of fusion and moulding that required in-depth research to achieve the right density and stability.


Instead, explains Heesoun Qim, “with the SS26 Saviour of Society collection, we chose to work with fire-resistant firefighter suits, transforming them into new yarn from which we make uppers and other details. Aramid, a heat-resistant technical material, acquires a double value once regenerated: on the one hand, it guarantees high performance, and on the other, it becomes a symbol of courage and protection.”
Nuosmiq is targeting the European market by focusing on distribution through boutiques and concept stores. At the same time, it is pursuing a strong social and environmental commitment. “We create products by recycling resources that would otherwise be thrown away and support campaigns for a sustainable planet, such as the National Institute of Ecology’s Walk and Earth Land,” says Qim. The brand is also an official member of 1% for the Planet, through which it donates 1% of its annual turnover to international environmental and non-profit organisations.
“Our goal,” concludes Qim, “is to build a circular and sustainable design project, step by step.”


Stahl reopens its Ranipet plant in India

Stahl today announces the reopening of its Ranipet plant in India. This milestone marks a significant step in the company’s transformation journey and reinforces the strategic importance of its presence in India, one of the world’s largest and fastest-growing economies.

Originally opened in April 2000, the Ranipet plant remained operational until its closure in 2019. Having divested its wet-end leather business, the plant has now officially reopened with a focus on finishing and high-performance coatings and packaging.

“The reopening of our Ranipet site is an important milestone in Stahl’s transformation journey,” said Maarten Heijbroek, CEO of Stahl. “This investment reflects our strategic focus and aligns our capabilities with future market demands. Being able to produce locally in India – an essential growth market – strengthens our position and enables us to better support our customers with tailored, innovative solutions.”

The newly renovated Ranipet facility brings together coating formulation production, research and development, and laboratory and application testing capabilities under one roof.

WHITE consolidates its global leadership

The edition of WHITE Milano held from 25 to 28 September 2025, dedicated to the Spring/Summer collections, ended with widespread appreciation from buyers, who recognised the high level of quality and innovation of the proposals presented. This edition confirmed the event as a showcase for established brands, but above all as a dynamic and visionary platform that supports true talent and anticipates future trends through careful scouting and selection in line with the current market.

The Tortona Fashion District brought together 364 clothing and accessory brands from all over the world, 55% of which came from abroad and 45% from Italy, representing a 22% increase compared to the last two editions.

There was a 7% increase in foreign buyers. There was a significant leap forward compared to last September in the Middle East, particularly Saudi Arabia. There was also good attendance from Spain, Japan, which reached interesting levels, and German-speaking countries such as Germany, Austria and Switzerland. As for the Italian market, there was an 11% decline.

WHITE was a partner of the Retail Leaders Circle Global Forum, a showcase for global fashion strategy with a focus on the retail segment, which hosted the first Retail Leaders Circle Fashion Summit at the Mudec – Museum of Cultures. The panel brought together 200 senior representatives from the fashion, luxury, retail, technology and investment sectors under the theme “Forces of Tomorrow”.


FLORIS VAN BOMMEL: elegance and lightness for summer

Founded in 1718, FLORIS VAN BOMMEL combines 300 years of craftsmanship with modern management under the guidance of the ninth generation of the family, which has led the company to achieve a stable annual turnover of around €60 million. For next summer’s SS26 collection, the brand offers elegant and timeless basic models that combine sporty silhouettes, innovative material combinations and custom-developed soles. Exclusive Italian leather, customised prints and colour accents give the various models their unmistakable FLORIS VAN BOMMEL character. Divided into SPORT, CASUAL and DRESSED segments, both the men’s and women’s lines achieve a confident balance between casual comfort and urban modernity, with a summery vibe that transitions effortlessly from sandy beaches to city streets and elegant dinners.

The SPORT line is dynamic, comfort-oriented and innovative in terms of materials, with modern running shoes, retro trainers and urban interpretations of activewear looks, while the CASUAL line is synonymous with relaxed elegance, characterised by maritime influences, the use of high-quality suede leathers and understated silhouettes for loafers, boots and contemporary hybrids. Finally, the DRESSED line is the stylistic heart of the collection, with progressive derbies, modern classics and characterful prints, all made in Europe.


Making of: Arsutoria School, October 2025

3D DESIGN OF SHOE LASTS AND SOLES


DECATHLON + ARSUTORIA: 3D DESIGN AT ITS BEST


K-WAY PROJECT PROTOTYPES ARE COMING SOON


OUR GRADUATES’ PROJECTS

HEX by Piquadro

At the heart of the line is the innovative HEX fabric, inspired by the molecular structure of carbon: its distinctive hexagonal weave reflects a technological and elegant character. The material is made from 91% recycled polyester and 8% polyurethane, with leather finishes, confirming Piquadro’s focus on sustainable innovation. Its main features include water repellency, lightness, resistance and cutting-edge aesthetics, enhanced by details such as the customisable Monogram Plate, satin-finish metal elements and minimalist profiles.

Among Piquadro’s new developments, which are not only related to its collections, is the flagship store in Corso Matteotti 8 in Milan, which opened during Monza GP week with an experiential event: in the window, the original nosecone of the Visa Cash App RB single-seater caught the attention of passers-by, while on the -1 floor, a professional Formula 1 simulator allowed visitors to experience the thrill of a real race first-hand.


DONE! presents Business >east+west<

The Business model takes the distinctive essence of the East+West backpack and reinvents it in a sober and refined key. Clean lines and harmonious proportions meet robust and sophisticated materials, giving life to a refined aesthetic, designed for professional environments. Every detail accompanies those who face the city and work with a determined and ambitious spirit. The interior spaces make organisation a natural gesture: laptops, documents and accessories find their dedicated place, always ready for use without the need to rummage through pockets. Every item is in the right place, allowing you to face the day with agility, order and practicality. What’s more, those who wish to make their mark can personalise their rucksack with their company logo or initials.


Artificial intelligence as the new frontier in the footwear industry: the UITIC 2025 Congress outlines the future of global manufacturing

“AI, sustainability, and competitiveness: shaping the future of footwear.” This was the common thread that guided the 22nd edition of the UITIC (International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians) Congress, hosted in Shanghai in 2025. A city that symbolizes industrial transformation, chosen not by chance to address the major issues that are revolutionizing the world of footwear: artificial intelligence, sustainability, innovative materials, and new production models.

The event, one of the most prestigious in the world for footwear technology, brought together 350 registered participants from 17 countries, involving companies, universities, and research centers. The agenda was intense and varied: two days of industrial visits to companies such as Shanghai Shima Technology Group, Zhejiang Huafon New Materials, Do-Win, and Saina Co., followed by two days of conferences and workshops.

Setting the pace for the conference were two keynote speeches—one by Footwearology, the other by Li Ning—16 technical presentationsa panel with six international speakers, and 24 presentations in the Innovation Showcase. But more than the numbers, what was striking was the depth of the topics covered: a true immersion in the present and future of the footwear industry.


ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE AS THE NERVOUS SYSTEM OF THE SECTOR

The word “AI” dominated every discussion. In the sessions dedicated to smart manufacturing and AI-empowered manufacturing, there was talk of intelligent production platforms, voice-based and machine learning-based quality control systems, and advanced robotization that does not replace but enhances human work.

A key concept emerged: artificial intelligence as the nervous system of the company, capable of coordinating flows, decisions, and processes. But — as one of the speakers pointed out — “humans are always needed in the loop.” The golden rules, summarized as “guardrails, license plates, and driver’s licenses,” are clear: AI must be guided, regulated, and understood in order to produce real value.

 

MATERIALS, DURABILITY, AND A SECOND LIFE FOR LEATHER

No less central was the session on materials and product innovations. The focus was on sustainable, recycled, and smart materials, with a reflection on durability as a new ecological paradigm. The theme of “second life for leather wastes” inspired many companies: transforming waste into resources is not only an environmental imperative, but also a competitive lever.

A particularly heated debate concerned the true nature of “eco-leather,” too often used as a marketing label. The congress reiterated the urgency of defining clear technical criteria capable of distinguishing truly sustainable materials from solutions that are only apparent.


SUSTAINABILITY AND COMPETITIVENESS: THE NEW INDUSTRIAL COMBINATION

Discussions on the theme of “Technology innovation for sustainability” showed that green innovation is no longer an option but a condition for competitive survival. Companies and researchers shared projects on footwear traceability, disassembly and component recovery strategies, as well as large-scale circular production models.

Sustainability, it was reiterated, is not a communication issue, but one of engineering and a business model. And AI, once again, is the tool that makes it measurable and scalable.

 

STORIES OF TRANSFORMATION: WHEN INNOVATION BECOMES EVERYDAY

The session dedicated to “successful industrial stories” showed concrete cases of digital transformation in footwear: from the use of skill intelligence to AI applications for sustainable design.

The most advanced companies are already operating in an “innovation ecosystem”, where academic skills, research, and industry continuously influence each other. It is a new supply chain model, more open, collaborative, and oriented towards experimentation.

 

THE POWER OF AI

The conference closed with a panel discussion on the power of AI, in which researchers, material and technology suppliers, and industry innovators offered complementary perspectives. All agreed on one point: artificial intelligence is already transforming products, processes, and business models, and the footwear industry—often perceived as traditionalist—is becoming an ideal testing ground for global industrial transition.

Sergio Dulio, Presidente UITIC

THE NEW UITIC ERA

During the general assembly, UITIC also announced a new phase in its history: a new statute was approved to bring it up to date, the members of the Executive Committee were confirmed, and Paul Guillaume was welcomed as a new representative. From 2026, membership fees will be reintroduced and a new website with more services will be launched, in addition to the creation of the UITIC Journal of Footwear Technology, dedicated to research and technical innovation.

The next edition of the congress is scheduled for 2027, in a location yet to be determined, but with a message that is already clear: the global footwear industry has entered the era of augmented intelligence.


The UITIC 2025 Congress was not just a technical event, but a statement of vision: AI does not replace humans, but amplifies their creativity and efficiency; sustainability is not a constraint but a competitive challenge; innovation is not a promise but a path already underway.

For Sergio Dulio, President of UITIC, the world is changing radically and the footwear industry is facing challenges, “but these challenges can be solved through close collaboration. The development of the footwear industry must be forward-looking and always open to new technologies. The world is entering the era of artificial intelligence, which will not only change footwear technology, but will also change all aspects of life. Therefore, it is necessary to have an open attitude and correctly assess the impact of artificial intelligence on factories.”

Amato Daniele: Pages from a nomadic diary

‘Memories – Pages from a nomadic diary’ is the new collection by the Milanese designer, seventh generation of the family and high-end leather goods maison Leu Locati: not treasures to collect, but travel impressions that are recorded like pages in an imaginary diary.

The journey begins with Spinosa, where sand suede and an unusual cactus green suede lend themselves to recounting the strength of arid lands. The journey continues among natural straws that are enlivened by TuttiFrutti embroidery: an explosion of sunny colours, with exotic fruits embroidered and embellished with bright beads.

The atmosphere then becomes more intense with turcasso suede and dark brown woven straw, which outline a tribal and textured chapter. Here, the iconic Queen Mid clutch bag is embellished with woven lurex masks and wooden beads, giving life to Zamani, an evocation of ancestral rituals and symbols.

The story softens with shades of pink: peach blossoms and small embroidered sparrows rest on suede and linen, giving life to Sakura, a delicate motif that evokes oriental atmospheres.

Another important page in the diary is dedicated to Monkey embroidery, palm trees animated by the presence of a little monkey and enriched by the three-dimensional detail of coconuts made of wood or pearls.

The maison’s icons open up to new experiments: Queen Crochet welcomes three-dimensional embroidery such as English Flowers or the marine Abyssum, where shells and seahorses emerge in relief. An absolute novelty is Raviolo Crochet, completely hand-woven and available in all the colours of the season.

Completing the collection is a capsule collection of gold-plated brass necklaces that reinterpret the maison’s jewellery chains, transforming them into chokers with a sculptural character.