Luis Zugno has been appointed chair of Leather Naturally Management Board, the international organization that promotes the use of responsibly made, certified leather. “It is a great honor to receive this assignment” Zugno commented. “I want to extend my heartfelt thanks to our supporting members, Management Board, and Supervisory Council for their unwavering support in maintaining Leather Naturally as the leading educational resource organization for leather”, Zugno, who has a Ph.D. in tanning research and more than 30 years of experience in the leather industry, succeeds Debbie Burton, communications director of the Leather Working Group, who stepped down after reaching the end of her six-year term as a board member. Zugno joined Leather Naturally’s board in 2020 as leader of the Education Team. In this role, he not only oversaw the production of the valuable fact sheets and related supporting articles, but also created the Guide to Modern Leather Making, an easy-to-understand, freely accessible resource for anyone to use. He currently works as Global Innovation Manager for chemical manufacturer Buckman International. He also holds the position of executive secretary of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS), of which he has also served as president.
Outgoing president, Debbie Burton, stressed the importance of the work done so far by recalling the last major achievement. “The power of the industry coming together to better educate people about leather has never been better exemplified than in the work that Leather Naturally undertook, in collaboration with Leather Working Group to update bovine leather in the Higg MSI. This work does not come for free, maintaining and updating the resources also carries a cost and our work is not done. As outgoing Chair I urge anyone who has not already done so, to pledge their support through membership of this dedicated organization.”
As of 1 January 2025, Sistema Moda Italia (Smi) – the federation representing the textile, clothing and fashion sector – will change its name and become Confindustria Moda together with Confindustria Accessori Moda, which represents all the sectors of the leather supply chain: footwear, leather goods, fur, tanning.
The announcement was made on 19 November at a press conference entitled ‘Sinergie in Movimento: Il sistema di rappresentanza della moda italiana cambia le proprie denominazioni’ (Moving Synergies: The Italian fashion representation system changes its name) at the Milan headquarters of the Confindustria associations involved. Present at the event were Vincenzo Marinese, Vice-President for Organisation and Relations with Territories and Categories of Confindustria; Giovanna Ceolini, Founder and Sole Director of ‘Parabiago Collezioni srl’ since 1999, former President of Assocalzaturifici and newly appointed President of Confindustria Accessori Moda, who succeeded Annarita Pilotti; and Sergio Tamborini, President of Sistema Moda Italia.
The reorganisation is in line with Confindustria’s objectives of supporting and representing industrial sectors while respecting their specificities and strategic value, at the same time consolidating the link with the parent company. The two Federations will continue to work together on shared themes, with common goals and visions, while respecting the protection of the individual sectoral identities that distinguish them.
The production system represented by the two Federations generates in its totality a turnover of almost 100 billion euros, employing more than 500,000 workers and including more than 50,000 enterprises. It is also worth mentioning that our country is the leading exporter of textiles, fashion, accessories in the EU (and the 2nd in the world after China), with a trade balance exceeding 26 billion euros in 2023.
‘I am proud to call myself Confindustria Accessori Moda,’ stressed Giovanna Ceolini, ‘because as Confindustria I am part of a system, of that important backbone that is Italian manufacturing, while the name Accessori Moda underlines the importance of the accessory as an element that “makes” fashion and makes us recognised in the world in terms of Made in Italy, generating wealth in the country and attracting tourism to Italy.
‘Confindustria is the hat under which we all stand and recognise ourselves in certain precise directions. Giving up the name Smi after some 20 years underlines the added value of being under the single name of Confindustria. Fashion is not sequins sequins and fashion shows, but is instead a system of companies and important numbers, which generates work and wealth in the country,’ Sergio Tamborini pointed out.
‘It is necessary to focus on our know-how, because ‘Made in Italy’ means ‘done well’. Our country has achieved an exceptional result in the export sector, also thanks to the uniqueness of Made in Italy products, taking fourth place worldwide. Despite this, there are sectors, which represent our excellence, that must be strengthened. Representation, in this context, becomes essential with support for companies, with an active policy for growth, with the combination of fiscal development policies in favour of a sector that is strategic for us,’ added Vincenzo Marinese.
Global luxury consumers have progressively reduced their spending on luxury goods in light of a highly uncertain macroeconomic environment and the sustained price increases that have occurred over the past two years. The combination of these factors led to the personal luxury goods market entering a slowdown for the first time since the Great Recession (excluding the Covid period), with an estimated 2% contraction year-on-year, taking into account current exchange rates. This contraction-majorly relevant for Generation Z, whose ‘advocacy’ towards luxury brands continues to decline-has led to a reduction in the luxury customer base of around 50 million over the past two years. At the same time, more high-end consumers are continuing to increase their relevance in the sector, although they are beginning to perceive less exclusivity.
‘Despite macroeconomic complexities, luxury spending has remained remarkably stable, driven by consumers‘ desire for premium experiences,’ said Claudia D’Arpizio, Senior Partner and Global Head of Fashion & Luxury at Bain & Company. ‘However, the loss of 50 million consumers in the last two years signals that brands need to review their value propositions. In order to win back customers, particularly younger ones, it is necessary to focus on creativity and broaden conversations. At the same time, brands will need to continue to focus on their top customers, surprising them with human and personalised interactions. For all customers, it will be crucial to focus on personalisation, using technology to achieve scale.”
Claudia D’Arpizio
Less appeal for leather goods and shoes
The beauty sector continues to perform well, especially in the fragrance segment, which captures the spending of those who want to indulge in ‘little indulgences.’ At the same time, the eyewear sector is also experiencing a positive momentum, with high-end brands on the rise and consumers increasingly attracted by the increased creativity on offer.
Jewellery is maintaining a good growth rate, especially driven by the high-end jewellery segment, and the particularly positive performance of the US market.
In contrast, watches, leather goods and footwear are slowing down, with consumers becoming more selective in their purchases and progressively shifting towards cheaper alternatives, although small leather accessories and entry-level items continue to be of interest to Generation Z. The second-hand market is also gaining ground, with particular interest in jewellery, and clothes and leather goods from a vintage perspective.
Distribution: outlets outperform shops
Although traffic in physical shops is generally in marked decline, the outlet channel is outperforming expectations, driven by consumers’ search for better value for money. Digital channels, meanwhile, are entering a phase of normalisation after the pandemic peaks and subsequent slowdown.
Geographical dynamics
The United States shows a gradual improvement in growth rates. Japan is confirmed as the growth leader in the global luxury market, thanks to favourable exchange rates and an increase in tourist spending throughout 2024. On the contrary, in China, the market has gone through a period of substantial decline, due to weak consumer confidence and the increase in Chinese tourist flows to Japan, Europe, and to a lesser extent to other Asian countries. The Old Continent is experiencing a period of solid but normalising growth, fuelled mainly by the influx of tourists to the cities and resorts of southern Europe. Emerging markets – Latin America, India, South-East Asia and Africa – represent new, potential growth areas.
The Future
According to Federica Levato, Senior Partner and EMEA Leader Fashion & Luxury at Bain & Company, ‘It will be crucial to rediscover the true essence of the brand and, at the same time, embrace the founding pillars on which luxury has always been based: craftsmanship, creativity, personalisation of the shopping experience and the intimate relationship with the consumer, leveraging technological tools, such as artificial intelligence, to ensure perfect execution.
In a globalised and digitally connected world, it is becoming increasingly difficult for trade fairs to position themselves clearly and attract professional audiences. PERFORMANCE DAYS, on the other hand, has been able to grow exponentially over time, thanks to its clear positioning as a platform for sourcing and knowledge transfer, a professional and relaxed environment where the industry has the opportunity to learn about industry innovations, new trends, exchange ideas and forge lasting business relationships.
PERFORMANCE DAYS enhances the trade fair experience by specifically addressing current industry trends and technological innovations, which is evident in the Trend Forum, this year focusing on the theme ‘Colorization – Chemistry is Everywhere’, and the Innovation Forum, dedicated to novel and innovative projects and approaches. Last but not least, we would like to mention the Sustainability Lounge, with its focus on start-ups and sustainable projects.
PERFORMANCE DAYS enhances the trade fair experience by specifically addressing current industry trends and technological innovations, which is evident in the Trend Forum, this year focusing on the theme ‘Colourification – Chemistry is Everywhere’, and the Innovation Forum, dedicated to novel and innovative projects and approaches. Last but not least, we would like to mention the Sustainability Lounge, with its focus on start-ups and sustainable projects.
There was also great interest in the Tech Hub space, which after its debut last spring has become a popular destination for learning about innovative technologies in the area of functional fabrics. Together with a test area showcasing James Heal’s equipment, it is the ideal place to learn about future digital processes in the industry. In the Footwear area, for instance, HDry demonstrated the importance of assessing the waterproofness and water repellency of footwear, using various testing devices.
As an important sourcing platform, the PERFORMANCE DAYS also aim to provide the necessary education that the industry is currently looking for through a wide range of conferences, discussion panels, workshops and networking events. The focus was on new knowledge in textile dyeing, fabric durability and tomorrow’s trends in footwear, fibres and colours, as well as revolutionary innovations that will shape the market in the future.
The appointment is therefore for the next edition, scheduled for 5 and 6 March 2025 at Messe München.
Stahl, global leader in speciality coatings for flexible materials, announced yesterday the divestment of its wet-end leather chemicals business to an affiliate of Belgian investment firm Syntagma Capital. “This transaction marks another step in Stahl’s transformation into a company fully focused on the formulation of specialty coatings for flexible materials,” explains Maarten Heijbroek, CEO of Stahl. “The divestment of our wet-end chemicals business completes this transformation.” The transfer of ownership of the wet-end leather chemicals business, Stahl explain, affects 428 employees and includes the entire wet-end product portfolio, along with production facilities located in Italy (headquarters) and India. On the other hand “Leather finishing is Stahl’s proud heritage and remains core to Stahl’s growth strategy”. The Stahl Leather Finishing business will be led by Andrea Ceretta, appointed Stahl Group Director Leather Finishing, who has been working in the global leather industry for over 20 years. Xavier Rafols, CEO of the company acquiring the wet-end division from Stahl, comments, “Our newly independent company combines over a century of expertise with the dynamism of a start-up. We’re building our business on the core values of integrity, excellence, agility and courage. Through innovation, sustainability and expertise, we will deliver solutions that help our clients face today’s challenges and tomorrow’s opportunities. In this way, we are not simply a solutions provider but an end-to-end partner nurturing bonds that last. We look forward to continued collaboration with stakeholders across the value chain to drive progress in the leather industry.” The proposed transaction, which is subject to customary closing conditions, including the information and consultation of works councils and other regulatory approvals, is expected to be completed in the first half of 2025.
Founded in 2013 thanks to the intuition and enthusiasm of an international team driven by a passion for the world of footwear and many years of experience in the sector, JV International has from the outset set out to conceive solutions, technologies and compounds for ‘people on the move’. JV International’s skills and experience meet Michelin’s desire to enter the footwear segment, to which it has entrusted the worldwide licence for the design, development, production and marketing of Michelin soles since 2013. JV International operates in the footwear sector (all product sectors) through three Business Units: JVI-soles by MICHELIN, JVI-Engineering and JVI-Repair. JVI-soles by MICHELIN is the division dedicated to the licensing of the French brand; JVI- Engineering is the division dedicated to strategic and technical consulting in the footwear world, supporting companies in their strategic and technical choices with innovative solutions, development of new technologies and exclusive design concepts. The experience and know-how consolidated over the years are made available to companies to find integrated solutions in every application segment of footwear: from Fashion to Outdoor, from Lifestyle to Work & Safety. JVI- Repair, finally, is the exclusive line of Michelin soles for shoe repair, including heels, half soles, soles and slabs.
JV International is present in Italy, where the headquarters in Tavernerio (Como) and the Sales & R&D centre in Verona are located. In Asia, JVI-Hong Kong is based in Hong Kong and in China in Dongguan, JVI-China and in America with JVI North America Corp in Vermont.
MIZUNO – MUJIN TL GTX
Amongst Michelin’s collaborations is the one with Mizuno for the brand new Mujin TL GTX model: a trail running inspired shoe but in a fashionable version, where the eye-catching tread design of the Michelin sole is designed to give maximum fit and traction, making this shoe iconic and trendy. The robust heel area provides durability, increased stability and cushioning. The colour combination and angular shape of the gussets give it a rock touch while the upper is made of Ripstop Mesh and leather, making it strong and durable and confirming Mizuno’s careful selection of materials.
CAMPER – BRUTUS TREK
In this beatle boot, the sole provides a gritty touch thanks to its thick, flamboyant tread, offering unrivalled comfort. Specifically designed for the protection and needs of the cold season, the Brutus Trek offers the right resistance to abrasion, optimal grip on slippery terrain and good flexibility. Extra protection is provided by the upper, in leather variants with PrimaLoft® lining, or in waterproof and breathable GORE-TEX®.
XEROSHOES – SCRAMBLER LOW
The first barefoot trail running shoe born from the collaboration between JV International and Xeroshoes, it features a light and flexible sole thanks to the application of fibrelite technology, while the right traction and grip provide safety even on uneven trails. The protruding tread, inspired by mountain biking, ensures the comfort of barefoot footwear and the durability needed in trail running, while the upper is breathable and abrasion resistant, perfect for use in all weather conditions.
GARMONT – VETTA TECH GTX
Precise, eclectic and lightweight boot that combines the lines and technical features of an Approach-derived shoe with the versatility and comfort of use typical of Hiking orientation models. In this shoe, the difference is made by the Michelin sole consisting of a bi-compound that guarantees safety and stability even on difficult terrain. The specific compound in the toe area provides exceptional grip. Flexibility and lightness are ensured by the application of fibrelite technology, while the tread design with triangular blocks in the heel area improves braking on descents.
The Zurich-based bag manufacturer expands the Reflected Bag family from four to eight models: the spacious and robust F691 GLEASON messenger backpack, the versatile F685 HENRY shoulder bag and two practical pouches. Four main materials are used – a robust material made from recycled PET bottles, old tarpaulins and reflective strips from discarded trucks and seatbelts. The design of the new models reflects contemporary aesthetics and focuses on a minimalist and essential style enhanced by classic FREITAG elements, such as the unmistakable logo (this time all in black). FREITAG also thinks about the future, which is why it designed the four new models from the outset to be easy to repair.
We see a resurgence in earthy tones and innovative finishes, reflecting a blend of tradition and modernity. Textiles will feature bold patterns and tactile surfaces, with an emphasis on eco-friendly processes and materials. Layering will be key, with versatile fabrics that enhance both comfort and style. Overall, the season is marked by a focus on durability and aesthetic appeal, catering to a growing demand for responsible fashion choices.
In the new WINQS Zerofly™ road running model, thanks to its Michelin sole in hybrid, performance and attention to the environment coexist perfectly. The merit of this perfect combination is the exclusive design of the tread blocks combined with hybrid technology, where rubber production waste is reintegrated into the sole compound. The tread pattern is designed to ensure a secure grip on asphalt, facilitate water evacuation and support the foot in the stride. The WINQS Zerofly™ is the world’s first ISPO Award-winning hybrid running shoe. With its GeckoGrip™ outsole and ultra-light, dynamic PEBAX foam midsole, it is the perfect companion for any urban jungle. Safe on slippery terrain, comfortable and fast on the road. Transparent production, made from organic and recycled materials.
Like all models in the FiveFingers range, V-Lynx was born from the desire to rediscover the deepest connection between the body and the natural environment, but also from the need to have a warm product for autumn and winter, combining style, comfort, functionality and versatility. Falling into the warm-winter-water category, this shoe is also designed for everyday use thanks to its high-quality water-repellent upper.
It adapts to any fit, allowing ample freedom of movement, thanks to the easy fitting given by the presence of the heat-sealed zip fastening that extends to the middle of the instep. The presence of the side elastic improves the internal thermal insulation, as does the innovative padding material. The 4 mm Vibram Megagrip sole offers unparalleled grip properties on dry and wet terrain, thanks to a premium outdoor compound that is offered for more urban use through this product.
