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Arsutoria Magazine

Elachem® and Main Group Technologies set up a cutting-edge technology hub for the footwear industry

The birth of the new technology hub, the result of the synergy between the Elachem® Group and Main Group Technologies, represents a turning point for the footwear industry, with a particular focus on the safety boot segment.

Thanks to this collaboration, companies specialising in the production of footwear with polyurethane systems can count on advanced tools and skills to optimise materials and production processes, guaranteeing innovative and customised solutions.

 

CUSTOMISED MATERIALS FOR EXCELLENT PERFORMANCE

A distinctive aspect of this partnership is the ability of the Elachem® Group’s research and development laboratory to work directly with safety boot manufacturers to study and create specific polyurethane system formulations. These materials are designed to meet the intensive use requirements typical of the professional sector, improving fundamental aspects such as strength, lightness and elasticity.

Advanced laboratory technology also allows the materials to undergo rigorous testing, ensuring maximum performance in terms of durability, comfort and safety. This approach allows manufacturers to benefit from continuous technical support, capable of transforming their needs into concrete solutions adapted to each specific use.

 

INNOVATION IN MANUFACTURING PROCESSES

In addition to excellence in materials, the technology hub offers access to state-of-the-art machinery developed by Main Group Technologies. These tools make it possible to optimise production processes, improve efficiency and ensure greater precision.

 

INTEGRATED SOLUTIONS FOR CUSTOMERS

The new technology hub stands out for its ability to act as a one-stop shop, accompanying manufacturers at every stage of the production process, from design to finished product. The integration of materials research, technological development and customised assistance offers an operational model that simplifies processes, reduces development time and improves the competitiveness of the end product.

This ensures a customer-centred approach, acting as a reference point for the entire footwear industry supply chain, with the ambition of leading the sector towards a more sustainable, efficient and customer-oriented future.

 

A NEW FRONTIER FOR THE WORK BOOT INDUSTRY

The collaboration between the Elachem® Group and Main Group Technologies marks a new phase for the professional footwear industry. By combining advanced skills and strategic vision, the technology cluster not only allows for the improvement of the finished product but also creates added value for the entire industrial chain.

“Our goal is to enable manufacturers to reach new standards of excellence, offering them tools and knowledge to meet the challenges of the future”, say the representatives of the two companies.


Sneaknit’s Easy Wear facilitates the fit

From Sneaknit an innovative technology that revolutionises the way people wear shoes. Designed for those who live hectic lives or who have difficulty moving, this solution offers a unique experience, combining comfort and practicality like never before.

With ‘Easy Wear’, the tongue is integrated directly into the upper, eliminating the need to unfasten or tie laces. Thanks to this structure, slipping the shoes on becomes a simple and immediate gesture, without the need to bend over or use a shoehorn.

But that’s not all: this unique technology not only facilitates the fit, but also keeps the foot stable and comfortable, ensuring optimal support all day long. It is a perfect solution for those looking for practicality without sacrificing comfort and design.

Combining materials and processes to make soles and shoes with superior performances

Framas is a leading supplier of soles in the footwear industry. They are known to be the partners of the athletic powerhouses. During the Desma House Fair the Framas team was presenting different R&D projects, among those a shoe developed in collaboration with Desma to show the results that can be achieved combining different technologies.

We have met René Medel who is Senior Digital Creation Engineer at Framas for a conversation about the project Framas has presented during the last Desma House Fair.

 

First of all, can you explain how the shoe has been made?

“This shoe has been developed leveraging the expertise of different partners.  We did a collaborative creation process among the group and then in the making: our team in Korea has created the two 3D printed parts using the SLS (*) technology. The first part is a rigid shank that has been co-molded with the TPU outsole and the second part is a heel support, made with a lattice structure, that has been co-molded with the LTPU midsole. For both parts a TPE (**) material (powder for SLS) has been used.  

The outsole was made using a traditional TPU injection process at our factory in Vietnam while the midsole was manufactured using the SmartliteO LTPU material from Huntsman. The LTPU is an innovative liquid TPU that can be casted and foamed while maintaining the thermoplastic properties since it does not cure as the traditional PU does. The sole unit was then sent to Desma in Germany for direct soling to the upper using PU. 

Overall, the project took almost two months to be completed since – due to its innovative nature – we had to experiment different technical solutions to industrialize the construction. One good example is the construction of the mold needed to keep the 3D printed heel support in the exact position when casting the LTPU. We had to change to geometry of the 3D printed part many times before getting to the final solution of having four pins in the mold connected to the lattice structure of the 3D printed part.”

 

What was the objective of this project?

“This development moves from the idea that combining the different technologies can open doors to a strep ahead in performances and customization. First of all, we are working to use addictive manufacturing (AM) in real production, not just for prototyping. These parts have been made using SLS technology, but we are also testing resins and extrusion of filaments and pellets.  The 3D printed parts are not intended only to save weights in some areas of the sole. They really can add specific properties to the sole. Let’s make an example: the midsole is typically made with a foaming material. Depending on the material we can achieve different results in terms of weight, compression set, rebound etc. But if we add a 3D printed part in the midsole, we can change these performance parameters using not only different 3D printable materials but also designing different geometries. This first project had a 3D insert with the foam all around it, but we can also combine 3d printed shapes with casted foams in different ways: we are testing the 3D print of an entire skeleton and then let the foam penetrate the 3D structure and fill it. The objective is to bring the performances to a different level. It’s the same idea as adding a carbon plate to the midsole. Carbon is another technology that we are testing since carbon plates can also be 3d printed. Depending on the kind of material that you add to the insole you can obtain stiffness or rebound or cushioning.”

    

Can you give an idea of what is coming next?

“The project had the objective to manufacture a sole unit with the 3D inserts and I can tell that a product like this can be brought to the market because we have fully industrialized the entire process. But we can go further in different directions. Today we can create the entire shoe, as our customers are already doing, offering a combination of traditional manufacturing processes (injection and casting) with 3d printing.

In terms of sustainability, this project presented at the Desma House Fair has a strong impact because the unit even though it has different parts, it is in the reality a mono-material, since the chemical nature of all these materials is similar, and it can be upcycled.

We are also testing other materials such as those of Balena that are bio-compostable materials. These materials today are 3d printable and injectable, but we are also looking at ways to foam them. Maybe combined with injected parts and 3d printed parts that are all compostable. In such a case the objective is to downcycle the unit: bury it and let it compost at the end of the cycle, hopefully in an industrial way.”    

 

Footnote (*) SLS stands for Selective Laser Sintering, a widely used additive manufacturing (3D printing) technique. It involves using a high-powered laser to fuse powdered material layer by layer, creating a solid object.

Footnote (**) TPE is a broader category of materials that behave like rubber but can be processed like plastics while TPU is a specialized type of TPE with superior strength, durability, and chemical resistance.      


Sustainability special: a fair and effective path to sustainability

Many are attempting to initiate a serious and constructive debate on the subject and it is their efforts that we report on. Companies that study and develop innovative solutions for environmentally friendly materials (such as yarns made from recycled paper), for hidden components, such as reinforcements for shoes and bags, that can make a difference when it comes to calculating the carbon footprint. Even, there are those who produce moulds for soles who are concerned about sustainability. And still speaking of soles, there are many companies studying solutions for recycling or biodegradable structures.

And let’s not forget that all these issues are increasingly topical given the new legislative framework that Europe is promoting and which we mention.

Green shops, repair as a sustainable commitment, but also inclusiveness and social issues such as attention to gender violence.

Many themes on the plate to be discovered!

Innovation outlook 2024: Technological innovations for the footwear and bag industry.

According to Treccani, a renowned Italian encyclopedia, the word of 2024 is “Respect.” Therefore, we wondered what the most inclusive term could be to signify the commonly traveled path of technological evolution observed at Simac Tanning Tech 2024, within the leather, footwear, and leather goods industries.

This is why there is a question mark accompanying the word Automation in the title. In a historical/economic moment filled with uncertainties, but perhaps this would also be the case in a time of vitality, it is difficult to identify a single reference trend. There are many different paths being taken, including sustainability, for instance.

However, the attempt to bring automation into as many production processes as possible is a constant that you will find in many of the highlights we present in this special report. The reasons? The need to keep costs low, an area where competition is increasingly ruthless and often pressures producers; a market that demands speed and consistent quality; and the ever-growing shortage of labor, particularly skilled labor. All these factors lead to viewing automation as a possible lifeline, which we could now better define as a means of resilience.

Yet, that question mark remains, not only to preserve the multitude of research and development paths underway but also because automation does not yet seem to be the optimal solution in every case. This will be addressed in the next issue of Arsutoria by the CEO of a major company:

Designers still need production flexibility to fully develop their ideas. They require different solutions to achieve a final result that is still related to creativity and attention to detail, which a machine does not always manage to provide.

Eduardo Calabuig is the new General Director of Inescop

From 18 November 2024, Eduardo Calabuig assumed the role of General Director. The press release announcing the change at the top reads: “We have strengthened our management team with a more agile and collaborative structure, designed to be aligned with our strategic objectives. This will enable us to make faster decisions and work in an even more coordinated way to achieve all that we set out to do.”

Personnel changes at TFL

In its role as a global producer of speciality chemicals for the leather and related industries, TFL has for many years been strongly committed to supporting the leather industry through active participation in various interest groups such as LWG, IULTCS, VGCT, TEGEWA, etc.
In order to provide the best possible support, these activities have been brought together at TFL under the position of ‘Head of New Business Development/Industry Relations’.
This position was previously held by Dr Dietrich Tegtmeyer, who retired on 1 October 2024. His successor is Dr Volker Rabe, who will take over these responsibilities in the future.

Dr Volker Rabe has been associated with the leather industry since his childhood, as his family ran a tannery for over 130 years.
He has held various positions within TFL and its predecessor companies since 2012. After completing his PhD in Chemistry in 2009, he previously worked at FILK for 2 years. In addition to his professional activities, he already represents TFL in various committees of the leather industry and this year became Chairman of the IUR Research Commission of the IULTCS.
His contact in TFL is as follows: [email protected]

IULTCS Commissions, three new chairmen appointed

IULTCS, the international Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies, has announced the change of chairmanship of several important internal committees. Dr Giancarlo Lovato has been appointed as new Committee Manager for ISO to replace Campbell Page, Dr Christine Anscombe will chair the Education and Training Commission (IUT) in place of Ivan Kral, and Simon Neifer succeeds Julian Osgood as Liaison Committee Chair.

“Giancarlo, Simon and Christine will play a crucial part in shaping the future initiatives, fostering collaborations, and driving positive change for IULTCS. The officers and IULTCS members look forward to working closely with the new Commission Chairs to help achieve our shared goals”,
IULTCS leadership announced.

The new ISO IULTCS Committee Manager is Dr. Giancarlo Lovato


Dr. Lovato works as Director of Research at Corichem – Italy. In this role he is responsible for the development of new leather chemicals and related technologies. He was Secretary of AICC (the Italian Association of Leather Chemists) from 2019 to 2022 and President of the Organizing Committee of the III IULTCS EuroCongress Vicenza 2022. He is currently the Italian Delegate to the IULTCS Executive Committee.

The new IUT (Education) Commission Chair is Dr. Christine Anscombe

Christine joined the leather industry over 40 years ago and has spent the last 15 years at SATRA – UK in her current role as Assistant Director. She is currently the chair of the British Standards Institute Committee for Leather and Footwear and was a Past President of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists. Christine has recently been one of the initiators of the Supporters of Leather Education and Science (SOLES) group which is trying to support global leather education

The new IUL (Liaison) Commission Chair is Simon Neifer


Simon Neifer has over 20 years of experience in the leather industry, specializing in sales, technical applications, and product development. His career spans international leadership roles across Germany, China, and Thailand. Currently serving as Head of Sales & Application Leather at Pulcra Chemicals GmbH.

APLF 2025: a bridge between China and South-East Asia

Now in its 41st year, APLF is more than just a trade event: it is the key meeting point for the global leather and manufacturing industry. Covering the entire supply chain, APLF offers a unique opportunity for leather industry players to connect with each other, exchange ideas and explore emerging trends, not least because of its prime location in Hong Kong, gateway to the vital markets of Mainland China and South East Asia. The date to mark in your diary is therefore 12-14 March 2025, at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, where over 800 exhibitors and 12,000 buyers from all over Asia and beyond will gather.

The event, as per tradition, will be uniquely structured to cover the entire leather and fashion supply chain through three key segments: APLF Leather & Materials, dedicated to components and materials essential for production, and Fashion Access, focusing on finished products. Recall that the leather industry in China and South-East Asia will continue to expand in the coming years. Driving this growth are key sectors such as footwear, fashion accessories, automotive and upholstery. With the continued economic development of these regions, consumer and industry demand for leather products is set to increase, and APLF Leather offers a valuable opportunity for suppliers to connect directly with key buyers in China and the wider Asian market.

Parallel to the growth in leather consumption, consumer demand for leather goods, footwear and fashion accessories is expected to increase significantly. A McKinsey report predicts that by 2030, 60 per cent of China’s population will belong to the middle class, while according to Market Data Forecast, the Southeast Asian leather goods market, valued at $5.9 billion in 2023, is expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.7 per cent between 2025 and 2030. This makes the region a crucial market for global manufacturers and Fashion Access represents a key platform for sourcing leather goods in Asia, with a wide range of handbags, wallets, small leather goods and garments.


ASSOMAC, industry exports fall: – 6.77% in the first nine months of 2024

Mauro Bergozza, presidente ASSOMAC

The difficulties of the Italian leather-footwear supply chain, combined with a complex international economic scenario, have had significant repercussions on the footwear, leather goods and tanning machinery sector. This is the picture painted by Assomac data, the Confindustria association representing Italian companies in the sector, which show a generalised crisis. A crisis that, in the first nine months of 2024, has strongly impacted the domestic market, without sparing exports (-6.77% compared to the same period last year).

After the resilience recorded in 2023, 2024 looks like a year of widespread difficulties. Few companies expect to close the year with higher orders than the previous year, while more than 78% of the companies in the sector estimate a drop in orders. Numbers that underline the urgency of facing structural challenges and adapting to a market in profound transformation.

The drop in exports was particularly significant for footwear and leather goods machinery, which fell by 22.45%, influenced by the results of exports to France (-36.21%) and Spain (-69.25%), key markets in terms of volume. On the other hand, the decrease was more contained for the spare parts sector (-3.99%), where the drop in demand in Europe was partly offset by the growth in Asia (+6.33%) and America (+1.71%). The trend for tannery machinery remained negative, in line with the sector; weak signs of resilience came from the African and Asian markets.

“The current situation presents significant challenges, but our industry has shown great resilience. We remain competitive thanks to the quality and innovation of our technologies,’ commented Mauro Bergozza, President of Assomac. ‘However, to maintain and expand this competitiveness, it is crucial to accelerate investments in advanced technology, sustainability and Industry 5.0. In a globalised context, the integration of technological innovation and environmental responsibility is what will allow us to continue to be a reference point in the sector.”

It is precisely these investments in technology, combined with the expansion of certain emerging markets, that could be the key to returning to growth in 2025. Indeed, the outlook points to a possible stabilisation of the sector, with a recovery linked to the ability of companies to respond to the demands for more sustainable production and to collaboration with institutions to fully utilise the funds dedicated to Industry 5.0. The focus on the development of advanced technologies and the strengthening of international partnerships will be crucial to regaining ground in more mature markets and to consolidate Italy’s presence at global level.