Two hundred and twenty delegates from twenty countries gathered in Lyon from September 9 to 11 to participate in the 38th IULTCS Congress, entitled “Beyond leather tradition, innovation & sustainability”.

The host was Congress President Jean-Pierre Gualino, accompanied by IULTCS President Joan Carles Castell and President of the Association of French Chemists (AFICTIC) Thierry Poncet.

This time organized by the French, the congress is as usual the culmination of the activity of IULTCS, the international association of tanning chemists, whose mission is to promote and share the results of research in the sector. This edition saw the presentation of some fifty technical-scientific reports (plus 70 poster presentations) divided into nine working sessions dedicated to: from traceability to beamhouse, chrome and chrome-free tanning, metal-free alternatives, retanning, post-tanning, finishing, innovation, and sustainability.

Dietrich Tegtmeyer, a renowned expert in the field and past president of IULTCS, opened the proceedings with the traditional ‘Heidemann Lecture’ dedicated to the importance of collagen. It was a thought-provoking presentation in which the German expert highlighted the need to develop innovation in the field of recycling tanning by-products, which are rich in collagen and have an estimated market potential of around $680 million.

The presentations that followed over the three days in Lyon offered a good snapshot of the direction of research in the sector, driven by increasingly restrictive regulations and consequent and increasingly burdensome market demands. In general, the topics discussed highlighted the efforts of the chemical tanning industry in researching and experimenting with innovative tanning agents and developing finishing products obtained from renewable and bio-based resources. Also of great interest were the ecodesign and LCA studies of leather, which provide scientific data that is essential both for improving the efficiency of the process itself and for communicating the progress made to the market and thus being able to compare it with the alternatives available on the market.

In terms of the origin of the research, Lyon saw massive participation by Chinese researchers from universities across the country. At the European level, Italy dominated with a dozen research projects (five of which were from the Italian Leather Research Institute, the others from members of the Association of Italian Chemists-AICC working in major companies in the sector), followed by Germany, France, and the United Kingdom. The Indian research world was also well represented with five projects and numerous delegates.

The audience included representatives from the French leather goods industry, while several observers noted the low participation of tanneries, a gap that should possibly be filled in the future to give greater weight to the event itself and to the interactions between delegates.

From Lyon to León

As usual, the event closed with the announcement of the venue for the next international meeting of leather chemists: the city of León, Mexico, will host the 39th IULTCS CONGRESS 2027 in two years’ time. The event will be hosted by the Mexican Association of Leather Technologists and Chemists (AQTCL) and will focus on challenges and opportunities in leather production within the important automotive leather center of León.

LES Italia, together with the School of Design of the Politecnico di Milano, with the support of EY and the participation of Dr Simona Marzetti of MIMIT–UIBM, organised a conference in Milan entitled ‘Italian products of excellence and the protection of geographical indications for non-food artisanal and industrial products’. The aim was to illustrate the new European legislation (Regulation 2023/2411) which, from December 2025, will extend GI protection to artisanal and industrial products. This historic step, the result of thirty years of negotiations, opens up new prospects for 92 Italian products already identified as potentially eligible for protection.

The discussions touched on three major themes: regulatory protection (with procedures, requirements and controls), the value of ‘know-how’ as a heritage to be protected and made attractive to new generations, and finally, future challenges related to the complexity of legislation, the scarcity of funds and the need to raise awareness among producers and consumers. The common thread? The idea that the real antagonist is not technology, but ignorance: the loss of awareness of the link between territory, identity and quality.

Among the speakers was Matteo Pasca, director of Arsutoria School, who recalled how excellence arises when creativity and technique find harmony. His reflection underlined a key concept: “Even with the most advanced machines, hands remain essential”. Craftsmanship is what distinguishes Made in Italy and allows it to be exported, as demonstrated by the school’s international training activities.

An event that did not merely celebrate Italian excellence but laid the foundations for a future in which legal protection and cultural enhancement go hand in hand, defending and relaunching Italian and regional productive identity.

While the footwear business is driven by the pace set by the global market, it is precisely this pace that Eleonora Ferracuti, Provincial Councillor of Fermo, was able to interpret when she launched the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) project to relaunch the Fermano-Maceratese footwear sector. This project is not just a gamble on the future, but a silent revolution that could redefine the boundaries of European manufacturing.

THE REGULATORY TURNING POINT

From 1st December 2025, it will be possible to apply for protected geographical indication registration in Italy for both artisanal and industrial products. No longer just Parmesan cheese and ham: now shoes, bags and other manufactured goods will also be able to boast the same recognition that has made Italian agri-food products famous throughout the world.

Who is responsible for this historic opening? The Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy, which acted as spokesperson in Europe for the enactment of EU Regulation 2023/2411 in November 2023. A diplomatic victory that opens up new scenarios for European craftsmanship.

THE CONSORTIUM THAT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

The Fermano-Maceratese Footwear Consortium was established in the province of Fermo in mid-November 2024, under the chairmanship of Germano Craia. Its headquarters? Monte Urano, not by chance: the beating heart of a district that has been setting the standard in Italian footwear production for decades.

The municipalities of Monte Urano, Porto Sant’Elpidio, Montegranaro, Fermo, Sant’Elpidio a Mare, Torre San Patrizio, Monte San Pietrangeli, Montecosaro, Civitanova Marche, Corridonia, Morrovalle and Monte San Giusto have already given their support. Such widespread support is no coincidence: when twelve municipalities unite for a common goal, it means that the idea has solid foundations.

THE ENGAGEMENT STRATEGY

“We want to engage young people and make them even more involved in a sector that characterises the area,” says Councillor Ferracuti. And she has done just that, with a competition for secondary school students to design the logo for the IGP Calzatura. The winner will receive a prize of €400.

This is not just local marketing. It is a strategic move that recognises an uncomfortable truth: without the involvement of the younger generation, even the most brilliant project risks remaining a dead letter. Many of the young people involved are the children of those who work in the footwear sector. The circle is complete, and tradition finds new life.

REGULATIONS: THE FINAL CHALLENGE

Now comes the moment of truth: defining the production regulations. “We have to define the processing stages to be included and much more. It will be a serious and in-depth discussion,” warns the president of the Province of Fermo, Ortenzi. A discussion that allows for no mistakes, because ‘once written, it cannot be changed’.

The crucial question: how many processing steps must be carried out in the territory to obtain the PGI mark? Is one enough (as provided for in the European text of the law) or must they all be carried out? The answer will determine the success or failure of the entire operation.

REAL INNOVATION

The initiative has received positive feedback from the main local associations, including Confindustria, Confartigianato, CNA, Claai, CGIL and UIL. Agreements such as this memorandum of understanding are fundamental: they join forces and bring together skills and resources.

The goal is ambitious but clear: “to be among the first to be recognised as European excellence in craftsmanship”. It is a race against time that could redefine not only the image of the Fermo-Macerata district, but the entire Italian manufacturing landscape.

The game is on. And this time, it is not just entrepreneurs who are playing: entire communities are betting on their industrial future.

From 1 December 2025, PGI registration will be possible for these non-food products. This new instrument, valid in all EU countries, will offer manufactured goods the same protection enjoyed by cheeses, wines and other typical foods, promoting local territories and products internationally.

Made in Italy and footwear

The Italian footwear industry is a flagship of Made in Italy. The sector employs over 73,000 people and exports 85% of its production, with an annual turnover of €14.6 billion. Italy remains by far the leading footwear manufacturer in the European Union (around 30% of the total) and is the undisputed world leader in high-end footwear. The ‘Made in Italy’ brand in the world of footwear is synonymous with quality and style, the result of a tradition of craftsmanship rooted in the country’s districts.

Protection from imitations

However, globalisation has exposed Italian footwear to imitations: poor-quality foreign products are passed off as Italian with misleading names or improper ‘Made in Italy’ labels. In this context, the PGI acts as a shield: it will be reserved for footwear linked to a specific territory and of certified quality. It will protect these products throughout the EU, providing a defence against counterfeiting. In addition to the more generic ‘made in’, the PGI certifies authenticity and requires that at least one stage of production takes place in the area of origin.

Export and marketing

In addition to providing protection, the PGI can enhance the value of Italian shoes on the market. The PGI will become a mark of quality for footwear, offering companies a new marketing tool. On foreign markets, certification will increase the visibility and credibility of Italian footwear and could facilitate access to public funding for local excellence.

Industry voices

The PGI reform has been welcomed by trade associations. The CNA notes that this tool, which has been awaited for years, will make it possible to protect Italian craftsmanship with a European mark, also protecting footwear from counterfeiting. In the Fermano district of the Marche region, local producers see the PGI as a driver for recovery: they note that in other sectors, geographical recognition has boosted sales and international reputation. In a sector emerging from a downturn (exports down 9.2% and turnover down 9.7% in 2024), the arrival of the PGI mark opens up prospects for the revival and defence of Made in Italy. The aim is to preserve the heritage and quality of our footwear, giving artisans official recognition to compete globally.

The Minister of Education and Merit, Giuseppe Valditara, visited Micam in Milan today, the international footwear exhibition now in its 100th edition, to reiterate the urgent need to invest in training young people and promoting technical and professional courses. Faced with the creations of 870 brands – 401 of which are Italian – the minister emphasised the importance of combining beauty, creativity and traditional craftsmanship as the pillars of Made in Italy, recalling the legacy of icons such as Giorgio Armani.

Valditara announced the launch of a guidance campaign aimed at students and families to promote the advantages of technical and vocational courses and ITS (Technical Higher Education Institutes), defined as a concrete gateway to the world of work. The minister pointed out that 1.5 billion euros have already been invested in ITS, and that there has been a significant increase in enrolment. He also reiterated that the Italian education system, thanks to the ‘4+2’ model, is considered innovative at an international level.

The ‘4+2’ model — four years of technical or vocational diploma, followed by two years at ITS Academies — has now become structural thanks to the recent school decree, which made it compulsory and formalised its orientation towards school and work training, a new term that replaces the previous acronym PCTO. According to Valditara, this approach strengthens the link between school, business and innovation, so much so that several countries are already considering importing it into their education systems.

In summary, at Micam in Milan, the minister relaunched the integration between education and business, innovation, support for professional training courses and the international projection of the Italian training model, confirming his conviction that the training of young people is the real engine that can sustain and renew the Made in Italy brand.

According to the report by the Federal Association of the German Footwear and Leather Goods Industry (HDS/L), in the first six months of 2025, sales by German footwear manufacturers rose from €1.15 billion to €1.16 billion compared to the same period last year, representing a 1.3% increase in turnover.

At €924 million, domestic sales rose by 5.1% compared to the first half of 2024, while foreign sales fell from €272 million to €242 million, corresponding to a decline of 11.0%. Footwear producer prices rose by 1.2% in the first half of 2025 compared to the first half of 2024.

In the first five months of 2025, 159.8 million pairs of shoes were exported from Germany, with a total value of €4.4 billion. Compared to the first half of 2024, this represents a 4.0% increase in the number of pairs exported. The value of footwear exports rose by 2.6%, from €4.3 billion to €4.4 billion. The average price of an exported shoe was €27.83 in the first five months of 2025.

Looking at footwear imports, from January to May 2025, these increased by 17.2% compared to the same period last year. In the first five months of 2025, 331.2 million pairs of shoes were imported into Germany. The value of imports rose from 4.7 to 5.6 billion euro, an increase of 18.8%. The average price of an imported shoe rose by 1.4%, from 16.77 to 17.01 euro.

Outlook

Despite the current instability and uncertainty and low consumer confidence in Germany, there are positive signs of change for the sector in the coming months, with fast-growing product segments such as barefoot shoes offering new opportunities for retailers and companies. In foreign trade, the political agreement on free trade between the EU and Indonesia will open up new market opportunities in the medium term and improve access to important supply and sales markets. Nevertheless, US customs policy and the new protectionist measures introduced by the Trump administration are hampering sales and significantly delaying the processing of deliveries.

Furthermore, geopolitical developments, such as those in the US market, as well as the ongoing war in Ukraine and conflicts in the Middle East, are creating a general climate of uncertainty and instability, with the footwear sector also being severely affected. However, foreign trade can provide a positive boost and, from a global perspective, urbanisation, rising disposable income and the expansion of digital retail trade offer new opportunities for the German footwear industry.