Take a look at a sustainability infographic — any sector, any company. You’ll usually find rounded figures, reassuring colours, and targets set for 2030. Rarely you find the carbon footprint broken down between upstream and the production process, measured per pair, and declared separately for three different materials. Go!Zero Recycle, however, does just that.
It is the range of recycled soles from Gommus, a Marche-based company certified to UNI EN ISO 14001 that powers its production almost exclusively with renewable energy. Three materials, three technical data sheets, three carbon footprints measured using the cradle-to-gate LCA methodology in accordance with PCR 2021:06.
The figures: for the rubber, 1.45 kg CO₂eq per pair, with 49.7% recycled material. At least 25% comes from internal production waste, certified by Bureau Veritas in accordance with UNI EN ISO 14021:2016. TPU: 0.67 kg CO₂eq per pair, with 97% recycled content — soles made from 100% recycled thermoplastic polyurethane, which retain the elasticity and abrasion resistance of traditional TPU. Blowtech, the super-lightweight compound: 2.06 kg CO₂eq per pair, with 29.8% recycled content. Also available in the Blowtech-GUM version, with a higher rubber content, for those seeking superior aesthetics and performance.
The paradox lies precisely in the data. The material with the highest percentage of recycled content — 97% TPU — is the one with the lowest carbon footprint. The more you recover, the less you emit. It is not automatic: it requires that production too be powered by renewable sources, otherwise the environmental benefit is lost in the process.
It is worth noting something else. For rubber, the upstream phase — extraction and processing of raw materials — accounts for 45% of the total footprint, whilst the internal process accounts for 55%. For TPU, the proportion is reversed: the core (A3) accounts for 88.7%, the upstream phase for just 11.2%. Recycled material drastically reduces the impact of the upstream supply chain.
‘Light footprint, Gommus quality’: the line’s slogan doesn’t lie, but it must be read in both directions. Light on the foot, light on the planet. One does not come at the expense of the other.
FGL International SpA, a leading Tuscan company in the leather chemicals sector and part of the Lapi Group SpA holding company, recently announced the acquisition of the Finishing division of RE.PI.CO. SpA, a historic Lombardy-based company active in the leather chemicals sector since 1948 and owned by the Annunziata family. This strategic move aims to strengthen FGL International’s position in the leather chemicals market by expanding its range of products and services dedicated to the sector. RE.PI.CO.’s finishing division will be integrated as a new product line—retaining its brand identity and customer portfolio—into FGL International’s current product range. In 2022, the Tuscan company had already undertaken a similar integration by adding the operations of Finikem (also part of the Lapi Group), a company specializing in leather finishing products, to its own activities. “The main objective of this acquisition is to offer our customers even more comprehensive and innovative support, combining the know-how of both companies and enhancing our commercial offering,” explains Francesco Lapi, CEO of FGL International and president of the Lapi Group. “RE.PI.CO. is a family-owned business with a long history, just like us. We both have over 70 years of experience in the leather processing industry. This transaction will enable us to implement new solutions, with a focus on innovation and sustainability, within an increasingly competitive market.” From RE.PI.CO.’s perspective, the sale of the Finishing division is part of a clear industrial vision aimed at consolidating its position in the wet-end product range, an area in which it intends to concentrate investments, technological development, and commercial resources, further strengthening its competitiveness and specialization. “The sale of the Finishing division represents a fundamental step in our strategic evolution,” states Stefania Annunziata, CEO of RE.PI.CO. “We are convinced that this decision will allow us to focus on further strengthening our presence in the wet-end sector, becoming even more agile and competitive, while ensuring that the divested division has the opportunity to grow under industrial leadership highly specialized in the finishing sector.”
RE.PI.CO. will continue to manufacture and market its product line dedicated to leather processing for the tanning industry, including its range of auxiliary dyes for finishing and retanning, which are produced both at its headquarters and historic site in Cinisello Balsamo (MI) and at its production facility in Inveruno, as well as at the plants opened abroad in recent years. The transaction clearly confirms both companies’ commitment to growth through targeted industrial decisions, strengthening specialization, innovation, and sustainability in service of the tanning industry.
A strategic meeting at the European Parliament to urge the Commission to exclude bovine leather from the EUDR. On April 8, Italy and UNIC – Concerie Italiane, at a meeting organized by Cotance (the association representing national tanning industries in Brussels), brought the sector’s concerns to the attention of European institutions. The sector views the anti-deforestation regulation as an unjustified burden, since leather is not among the causes of deforestation. “Hides and leather must be excluded from Annex I of the EUDR,” stated MEP Dario Nardella, the initiative’s promoter, “not because we oppose forest protection, but because effective legislation must target those truly responsible for deforestation, not those who repurpose waste into a circular and durable material.” The debate comes at a crucial moment, as the European Commission prepares to finalize the Delegated Act that will update the products included in the regulation by the end of April. Tanners have reiterated once again that leather is not responsible for deforestation and that its inclusion in the EUDR lacks an adequate impact assessment. Among the main concerns highlighted were: the lack of interest among livestock farmers in complying with the regulation for a product that accounts for only 1.4% of a cow’s value, the risk of the European industry relocating, and the potential generation of millions of tons of waste if hides were no longer processed. The delegation included Cotance President Manuel Ríos, UNIC President Fabrizio Nuti, and Vice President Piero Rosati, along with board members Roberto Lupi, Michele Matteoli, and Marco Blasio, as well as Francesco Matelli, President of the Chamber of Arbitration for Leather. In a closing statement, Cotance noted that the meeting brought a note of optimism for the tanning sector. Luis Planas Herrera, a member of Commissioner Jessika Roswall’s cabinet, emphasized that the upcoming adjustments to the scope of the regulation aim to preserve the industrial competitiveness of key sectors and ensure that the requirements and investments demanded of the industry remain proportionate, realistic, and meaningful.
A moment from the meeting in Brussels organized by COTANCE with the support of MEP Dario Nardella
Founded in 1957 by Francesco Manfredini as a small artisan workshop in Casandrino, in the heart of Campania’s footwear district, Formificio Tacchificio Manfredini is now in its third generation. Francesco and Luca Manfredini lead a well-structured company: two industrial plants covering over 10,000 square metres, 3- and 5-axis CNC machines, a branch in Civitanova Marche and established partnerships with major luxury brands. Lasting, heels and footwear accessories: an identity forged over almost seventy years, in a journey that has transformed an artisan workshop into an automated industry capable of rapid prototyping.
It is against this backdrop that the Modulas patent emerges, unveiled for the very first time at Lineapelle in February 2026.
What is the problem? There is a physical limit in shoe assembly that cannot be circumvented: once a certain point of tension is reached, the upper gives way. It tears or deforms. With very wide lasts, that critical point is often reached. A standard last, in fact, cannot be removed from a wide-lasted model without forcing it — and forcing it means compromising the product.
The Modulas system, developed by Manfredini, incorporates rails into the last along which detachable parts slide. When the last is removed, the outermost parts of the last itself, mounted on rails, detach, remain inside the shoe, and allow the last to be removed effortlessly. The tension that caused tearing and deformation is no longer generated.
The system is flexible in terms of the materials to which it can be applied: aluminium, polyethylene or 3D printing, depending on the item, the thickness of the last and the stresses anticipated during the pre-assembly phase. The patent was filed a few months ago, following a feasibility study initiated by specific requirements reported by customers.
The Board of Directors of the company – a leading player at both national and international level in the design, production and marketing of high-tech adhesives and fabrics, listed on the Euronext Growth Milan market of Borsa Italiana – meeting under the chairmanship of Mr Guido Cami, approved the draft financial statements on 26 March and reviewed the consolidated financial statements as at 31 December 2025, both prepared in accordance with International Accounting Standards (IAS/IFRS).
The 2025 financial year closed with a turnover of €72.6 million, an EBITDA of €9.7 million (EBITDA margin of 13.3%) and cash generation of €6.2 million.
As highlighted by Chairman Guido Cami: “These are highly commendable results given the external circumstances. Activities in the footwear and leather goods sectors continued to suffer from the slowdown in sales among our customers worldwide, but activities in the automotive and industrial sectors more than compensated for this in terms of volume.
During 2025, projects were launched in sectors new to Forestali, primarily targeting industrial markets, which bode well for the future.
Commercial diversification is a key strength that makes our organisation resilient to ‘disruptions’ and a solid point of reference for supply chains across many markets. We have fully completed the investment plan set out in the budget and consolidated our product and system certifications to ensure we always meet customer requirements, in line with the European Union’s complex regulations on sustainability, environmental impact and circularity. We are therefore well-equipped and prepared to tackle the new year, which in its first two months has begun along the same lines as the second half of 2025”.
In the photo: Tobias Alando, CEO of KAM (center), and Mauro Bergozza, President of Assomac (right)
Assomac, the national association of Italian manufacturers of footwear, leather goods, and tanning, announces that it has signed strategic agreements with the Kenya Association of Manufacturers (KAM), on behalf of the Italian supply chain also represented by UNIC (tanning) and UNPAC (tanning chemicals), and with Equity Bank Kenya Limited to promote, through the supply of Italian technologies and machinery, the development of the leather value chain in Kenya. Italian technology for the leather-footwear-leather goods supply chain represents a strategic industrial asset, capable of transforming raw materials into high-value-added products that are highly competitive on global markets. With this in mind, the agreement—formalized on March 26 on the sidelines of the Leather Side Event in Nairobi, as part of the Kenya International Investment Conference, promoted by the Ministry of Investments, Trade and Industry in partnership with the Kenya Leather Development Council and the Kenya Investment Authority—consolidates collaboration with KAM and local technical centers, aiming to create a competitive and sustainable ecosystem capable of integrating Kenyan companies into the sector’s global production chains. The partnership with Equity Bank Kenya Limited will, in turn, facilitate local buyers’ access to financial instruments for the purchase of Italian machinery and technology, giving them the opportunity to develop products that meet international quality standards in the future and strengthen their presence in foreign markets. Mauro Bergozza, President of Assomac, explains: “This project promotes the development of a structured manufacturing system, in which Italian technology and machinery play a leading role, representing a true strategic asset for the global leather industry. ‘Made in Italy’ does not only mean excellence and quality, but also the ability to transform raw materials into high-value-added products. With our wealth of expertise and integrated supply chain models, we aim to make a concrete contribution to the development of sustainable and competitive production ecosystems worldwide, strengthening the potential for Kenyan companies to establish a presence in international markets.”
The initiative is consistent with the priorities of the Mattei Plan, representing a contribution by the Italian industrial sector to development dynamics and economic cooperation with African countries, and is part of the “Sistema Italia” approach, involving a coordinated effort by companies, associations, and institutions: from development cooperation, through the AICS Agency, to the internationalization and promotion of Italian companies with the support of the ICE Agency. All of this is closely coordinated with the Italian Embassy in Nairobi and local government bodies to ensure the concrete implementation of investment plans in the country. The project is also part of a broader framework of ongoing activities by Assomac in Africa, with initiatives already underway in Egypt, Niger, Senegal, and Tunisia, and future prospects for Ethiopia, Mali, Morocco, and Namibia. Last week’s meeting followed an initial exploratory mission last June, during which Assomac, together with the Italian associations UNIC and UNPAC, analyzed Kenya’s potential in terms of raw materials, expertise, and industrial prospects, sharing a strategic document with local institutions and entrepreneurs that helped strengthen the dialogue between the two countries and laid the groundwork for launching the initiative.
The Italian footwear, leather goods, and tanning technology sector, together with the tanning industry and related chemical products, has a well-established presence in the world’s major manufacturing hubs and plays an active role in the development of the leather industry supply chains. Over 70% of the sector’s production is destined for international markets, with significant exports to Europe, China, Vietnam, India, Turkey, Brazil, Mexico, Indonesia, Pakistan, South Africa, and various African countries undergoing industrialization. In this context, Italian technologies provide concrete support for the emergence and growth of new supply chains, offering know-how, established regional clusters, and globally recognized technological expertise.
Mauro Bergozza, President of Assomac, with Moses Nyabanda, Managing Director of Equity Bank Kenya Ltd
Our Trend Analyst Maria Cristina Rossi guides us to discover the main trends seen on the catwalks:
Four houses set the tone for autumn/winter with remarkable consistency. Prada turned layering into philosophy, with looks peeled back each runway pass to reveal entirely new outfits beneath. Dolce & Gabbana reasserted their core codes — Sicily, black, lace, tailoring — with zero nostalgia. Etro wove tartans, paisley, and medieval references into a rich cultural collage. And Marni‘s new designer Merel Rogge made a quietly powerful debut, returning to the house’s founding spirit with a lived-in wardrobe of painterly prints and earthy tones.
Filtered through bags and shoes, three trends define the season. Fur remains unapologetic, wrapping pumps and softening bag shapes with a sensuality that refuses to fade. Gold has gone fully democratic, showing up on everything from flat sandals to knee-high boots — less adornment, more attitude. And embroidery emerges as the season’s defining craft statement, with intricate beading, cross-stitch, and floral appliqué transforming accessories into artisanal objects. Fashion, this season, is making a case for slowing down.
The leather industry has mobilized to call for a revision of the EUDR, the European Union Deforestation Regulation, which is set to take effect in 2027. Several representative organizations, coordinated at the global level, have submitted a joint request to European institutions to remove bovine leather from the scope of the regulation. The International Council of Tanners (ICT), supported by the International Meat Secretariat and ICHSLTA, has sent a formal letter to European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen requesting the exclusion of bovine leather from the Anti-Deforestation Regulation. The request reiterates that there is no scientific evidence linking leather to deforestation. On the contrary, independent evidence, such as the study by the Scuola Superiore Sant’Anna in Pisa, indicates that leather is a byproduct of livestock farming, playing no decisive role in the economic dynamics that could lead to forest destruction. For this reason, the exclusion is considered a coherent and useful measure to make the legislation more balanced and practical. Concerns also center on the potential economic consequences: according to COTANCE, the current regulatory framework could significantly limit the supply of raw hides to European companies in the sector, with negative effects on competitiveness, costs, and the entire production chain.
The Leather Working Group announces the appointment of Catherine Lee, a representative of the Adidas brand, to its Board. “We would also like to express our sincere thanks to Jon Hopper, Senior Director, Global Materials Supply at VF Corporation, for his dedicated service as an outgoing Board member and for his invaluable contributions to LWG’s work over the past eight years” they add. “His commitment and support have played an important role, and we are truly appreciative of the time, expertise, and passion he has brought to advancing our mission”. It may be worth noting that the Leather Working Group is an international organization that evaluates and certifies tanneries based on their environmental performance. Its goal is to promote sustainable and responsible practices in leather production. Catherine Lee is Senior Director, Product Development at adidas and she brings extensive experience in sourcing operations and material development, with strong expertise in aligning strategic sustainability goals, regulatory requirements and operational readiness. Her appointment is effective from 1 April, 2026.
The future of leather lies in saving 7.5 million litres of water – an impressive amount equivalent to three Olympic-sized swimming pools or the load of 250 large industrial tankers. This is the calling card of ‘Hearth’, the new sustainable production line launched by Rino Mastrotto with an innovative tanning process capable of reducing water consumption by 91%, chemical use by 23% and CO₂ emissions by 22%.
‘Origini’: the S/S27 collection
Alongside technical innovation, Rino Mastrotto presented the “Origini” collection at Lineapelle. In an era dominated by the artificial and the digital, Origini stems from the need to rediscover the beauty of everyday life and the tangibility of touch. The textures are light, designed to play with light and offer a timeless elegance that invites authentic human connections.
In ‘Origini’, colour becomes a true emotional language: the palette ranges from whites and bleached tones to blues, light blues and greens that represent water. Beige, pink and khaki combine nature with metropolitan dynamism. Browns, traditionally associated with winter, acquire a new softness and sensuality thanks to the summer light, whilst yellows and oranges give the season a vital charge.
