Arsutoria Magazine

GARMONT UNCHARTED: innovation and responsibility in lifestyle

The creative workshop set up with the aim of promoting sustainability through synergies and partnerships, the beating heart of all UNCHARTED projects, presents two new Garmont-branded models at the next edition of Pitti Uomo, designed for lifestyle and streetwear use but with an outdoor aesthetic: 9.81 URBAN ENGAGE and 9.81 URBAN SPEED. The former is a trail and fast hiking inspired model that enhances the fast&light nature thanks to an engineered mesh upper and heat applied tpu film. Pure performance, on the other hand, is conveyed by the VIBRAM Durmast tread, exclusive to Garmont, with Traction Lug technology and a perfect lug design for excellent grip on all urban surfaces. The 9.81 URBAN SPEED, on the other hand, is inspired by a trail running model from the early 1990s. The upper is made of recycled fabric, featuring PU film with suede effect and ultasoft leather inserts. The sole inspired by the original features a TPU stabilising element drowned inside the midsole for maximum safety.

The partnership with ACBC also continues for the ACBC x Garmont capsule collection, which sees the entry alongside the iconic Lagom, revisited with canvas uppers and cork and natural rubber inserts, of Element and Ramè, two models designed for everyday use, 100% animal free and with reduced CO2 impact.


Hüni and Dose, exclusive distribution agreement

Hüni, leader in the production of wooden and polypropylene drums and tannery automation systems, and Dose, an expert in stainless steel drums and components, have just announced a strategic exclusive cooperation. Effective immediately, all Dose drums will be distributed worldwide solely through Hüni’s extensive network.
In addition to this significant distribution agreement, Hüni will now serve as Dose’s exclusive partner for all automation products, leveraging its excellence and extensive experience in process automation. This partnership underscores the commitment of both companies to providing top-tier drum and automation solutions to tanneries around the globe.

Pitti Lemon is coming: fresh, energetic, sunny

The summer edition of Pitti Uomo, number 106, welcomes 790 brands, 43% of which are foreign, to the Fortezza da Basso in Florence from 11 to 14 June 2024, for the presentation to Italian and international buyers of the new S/S 2025 collections, including established brands and new and interesting research brands. Alongside menswear, there will also be plenty of lifestyle, with accessories and design objects, increasingly present among the proposals of the main concept stores and the best boutiques.

The theme chosen for the advertising campaign and the fittings in the Fortezza for this edition is PITTI LEMON, a reminder of everything that is desestive, fresh, sunny and full of energy. Just like this edition that is characterised by the presence of names of great impact, starting with Paul Smith, protagonist of a special event on the opening day of Pitti Uomo. Significant is the choice of Marine Serre as Guest Designer, whose work highlights style and highly topical content. Events not to be missed include the first fashion show of cult brand Pierre Louis Mascia, and the debut of a men’s fashion capsule by Plan C by Carolina Castiglioni. Confirmed is the exhibition itinerary divided into five sections (Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling and I Go Out), to which is added the presence of the special areas with ten emerging talents at S|Style and the Vintage Hub.

Among the international collaborations, besides the consolidated presence of Scandinavian Manifesto and J∞Quality, at this edition Pitti Uomo will propose the special project China Wave.

‘Pitti Uomo continues on its path of growth alongside the brands, representing for an increasingly broader and stronger community a moment of meeting, business and in-depth analysis of the themes that cross contemporary fashion culture,’ commented Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine. 

Paul Smith
Marine Serre
PLAN C Carolina Castiglioni
Pierre Louis Mascia


The Milanese brand of 100% vegan bags, internationally recognised for its strong values of environmental and social responsibility, has launched the third chapter of the TOGETHER by THEMOIRè project with the SS24 special capsule collection COLOMBIA, thus continuing the macro-project linked to the brand that aims to valorise the artisanal heritage of certain minorities in vulnerable situations. TOGETHER by THEMOIRè // CHAPTER 03 was made in Sandonà, southern Colombia, working with a community of two hundred women who have made weaving the natural fibres of Iraca – totally biodegradable – their work and passion. From iconic models such as Tia and Bios and Kobo, to the new models, Flor and Phoebe, hand and shoulder bags with a soft, contemporary shape. Each model, 100% hand-woven, is developed in three colours inspired by the shades of Colombian cities. 100% of the proceeds from the sale of the capsule will go to assist the children of tejedoras with disabilities and special needs. To launch the capsule, TOGETHER by THEMOIRè also opened a customised pop-up at La Rinascente in Milan’s Piazza Duomo from 14 May to 24 June.

‘We are thrilled with this new goal achieved. THEMOIRè is a project that was born at the end of 2019 and has seen significant results since its inception. As of today, we have a widespread presence in over 300 multibrand stores worldwide, of which about 100 in Italy, and we are proud to be able to consolidate the relationship with our strategic customers such as La Rinascente in our Milan,’ say Francesca Monaco and Salar Bicheranloo, Creative Directors and Founders.

Manuel Rios re-elected COTANCE President

The Assembly General held on Wednesday 15 May 2024 in Brussels re-elected unanimously Manuel Rios Navarro to continue guiding COTANCE during the next two years. CEO of INPELSA, the leading Spanish sheepskin tannery located in Canals (Valencia), Mr Rios holds the highest position in Europe’s leather industry body since 2021.

President Rios will be shouldered in the COTANCE Presidency by Vice-Presidents Fabrizio Nuti (Italy), Jean Christophe Muller (France) and Rino Mastrotto (Italy). Philippe Joucla (France), outgoing Vice-President, was warmly thanked for his term in the COTANCE Presidency.

The delegates from Italy, France, Spain, Germany, UK, Portugal and Hungary attending the Assembly also adopted the 2024 COTANCE Manifesto which summarises the main asks to the EU in view of the new legislative term with upcoming European elections and the appointment of a new Commission.

COTANCE President Manuel Rios said: “I am very proud of the trust received from my peers for leading our industry in these complicated times, and happy for the support of my colleagues in the COTANCE Presidency. We will not refrain efforts for ensuring that our EU authorities know the needs of our companies. The Manifesto that we have adopted today summarises in 3 points and 10 measures what our industry needs from Europe. Let’s use it extensively so that our political leaders in the EU and at home understand what we need. We cannot afford more spanners in the works. What we need is support and not attacks!”

AICC: new frontiers in leather production

Massive participation by tanners and leather technicians at the 52nd AICC National Conference held on May 17 in Chiampo, Vicenza. After all, the topic on the agenda was decidedly intriguing: “New Frontiers in Leather Production” with speakers representing some of the major companies in the industry. Doing the honors were AICC Secretary Renato Bertoli and President Franca Nuti who welcomed Chiampo Mayor Filippo Negro and all the speakers.
The proceedings were kicked off by Ralph Günther Blach and Fabio Lupi of Stahl, who spoke about the advantages of “Hyperfunctional Polycarbodiimide Crosslinkers for Aqueous Leather Finishes” which are an alternative that can offer important technical and environmental advantages over traditional crosslinkers.
Giulio Galiotto of Erretre gave a talk titled “Dry Milling as a control tool” during which he presented the results of tests carried out together with a New Zealand University on the effects that dry milling produces in the distribution of fatliquors within leather fibers. Galiotto also spoke about the importance of the data that today’s tannery machines are able to produce: the analysis of these numbers, Galiotto explained, represents the real “game changer” at the technological level today, as they offer the opportunity to optimize processing.
Luca Ramadori of Arco International illustrated the results of a “Biocide Migration Study” which, in addition to explaining the crucial importance of these products for the preservation of leather, showed that on samples of various types of leather – analyzed after being treated with the active ingredients allowed by the regulations – no traces of biocide could be detected.
There was a return to the subject of machinery with Gianni Maitan of Gemata who presented the “New finishing technology with release paper for buffed and full grain leathers,” illustrating the many technical, economic and environmental advantages of this type of processing, which in fact is enjoying great success on the market.
Concluding the conference was a paper by Riccardo Pasquale of GSC Group dedicated to “Utilization of Bio-based Products – Assessment and LCA Assessment for the Future of Leather Production”. Based on extensive studies carried out by the Veneto-based leather chemicals company, the researcher pointed out that a tanning chemistry based on bio-based components contributes to mitigating climate change, although from the point of view of final purification the loads are increased and that therefore the systems currently in use require adaptations.

The panel of speakers at the 52nd AICC National Conference

Green Deal Leather Project Final Conference Yesterday

Yesterday, May 16th, in Brussels, the European Tanning and Leather social partners, COTANCE and industriAll Europe held the Green Deal Leather Final Conference, concluding a two-year, EU-funded Social Dialogue project ’Towards Zero Adverse Impact of the European Leather Industry – GREEN DEAL LEATHER’.
The event attracted around 100 on-site attendees and marked the end of a successful, EU-funded social dialogue project between the European social partners as well as national representatives from Spain (ACEXPIEL), Portugal (APIC), France (FFTM), Hungary (MKZS), Italy (UNIC), Germany (VDL), and Austria (FVTBSL).
The Final Conference commenced with an address by Judith Kirton-Darling, Secretary General of industriAll Europe, who stated: “We have a proud tradition of producing good quality leather here in Europe and we want to make the leather sector, like all manufacturing sectors, as green as possible. At the same time, good occupational health and safety practices in the workplace, with ongoing training and checks, are essential for achieving a more sustainable leather industry. Social dialogue is key, and with the project’s preliminary results serving as a baseline, we must now work together to achieve zero accidents.’’

Manuel Rios, COTANCE President

Mr Manuel Rios, President of COTANCE, added: “Through the Green Deal Leather project, COTANCE continues to equip European tanners with the tools and intelligence needed to progress towards a more sustainable future. We believe that transparency is key to advancing our social and environmental credentials and dispelling common misconceptions about leather. We are proud to undertake this journey hand in hand with our social partners.”
Following the opening remarks, COTANCE Secretary General, Mr. Gustavo González-Quijano, introduced the audience to the GDL project. Representative data on tannery workplace safety in the EU (“Injuries/Incidents at the Workplace” study released in Lineapelle/Milan, September 19, 2023) and the carbon footprint of leather (“The Carbon Footprint of European Bovine Leather” study released at the Final Conference in Brussels) were screened in two infographic videos. The data obtained serves as both a benchmark and a baseline, supporting sustainable development within the European tanning industry.

The studies reveal that:
– Tannery-related accidents in EU countries surveyed (Italy, Spain, France, Germany, Portugal, Hungary and Austria) declined by 16%, from 1,317 in 2019 to 1,102 in 2021. However, with an 1 incidence rate of 3.2% in 2021, of which 15% is on the way to/from work, and over 90% of recorded accidents being qualified as of “minor” severity, there is still room for improvement.
– Calculating leather’s carbon footprint is a complex exercise that requires a thorough understanding of the tanning industry, its processes and products. The result obtained with the ECO2L method indicates an average of 8kg of CO2 per m2 of bovine leather in tannery processes. This figure can vary based on specific characteristics of the leather, such as thickness and performance requirements. Therefore, since each batch of leather is made to order, customers have the opportunity to influence the eco-design of their leather products.
– Leather’s environmental impact stems more from livestock breeding and chemicals than from tanning. The study also shows why replacing a chemical with one that has a lower carbon footprint does not always result in overall improvement.

Gustavo González-Quijano, COTANCE Secretary General

Following the presentation, the first panel, moderated by Elspeth Hathaway of industriAll Europe, featured Agostino Apolito, Director General of Assomac; Beatriz Mello da Cunha, Specialist at ILO; Javier Uson Montesinos, Representative at UGT-FICA; and Sabrina Frontini, Director of ICEC, who together provided valuable insights into the social sustainability of the leather industry. Speakers emphasised that prevention strategies, including health & safety certification and training, Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), and active worker involvement are crucial to enhancing workplace safety. Quality social dialogue is an effective tool for discussing workplace issues and ensuring all workers are safe. Additionally, with challenges in attracting young people to the sector, it is important to demonstrate that the tanning and leather industry is not only safe but also green and circular.
The second panel featured top leather industry experts: Dr Francesco Troisi, head of the CERIS srl Analytical Laboratory and member of the UNPAC Technical Commission; Andreas Meyer, Managing Director of VDL; Ivan Kral, Industrial Development Officer of UNIDO; and Guido Zilli, ESG Manager of Gruppo Mastrotto. Christian Baio, Sustainability & Business Development Manager, SPIN360, moderated the panel.
Building on previous achievements and leather’s natural properties, from its durability and life-cycle assessment, discussed by Ivan Kral, to the dysfunction of the EF methodology and its penalising effects, presented by Guido Zilli, the second panel highlighted leather’s inherent sustainability, making it an ideal component of the circular economy. The ECO2L carbon footprint calculation tool, introduced yesterday, marks a further step towards a harmonised approach and increased transparency in the industry. Future steps will develop aspects like durability, natural content, and reparability to enable accurate comparisons of different materials and their true environmental footprints.
The Final Conference of the GDL project showcased the work and achievements of the social partners, who, in these last two years, have gathered and produced data that will greatly benefit the tanning and leather sector globally. By working together in social dialogue, the European leather industry produces tools and intelligence which contribute to worker safety, protect the environment, and promote sustainable, high-quality leather, supporting millions of jobs worldwide.

Project website:

NEUTRA launches the new Simbiosi model

The Dutch trainer brand launches its new Simbiosi model, developed in collaboration with the world leader in the development and production of high-performance rubber soles Vibram and the avant-garde textile company BYBORRE. Inspired by the concept from which it takes its name, the Simbiosi model was born from the fusion of the identities of both brands into a single product.

Designed with the award-winning BYBORRE Create design tool, the textile upper is made from sustainable materials and revisits the brand’s most distinctive patterns and tones.

Each shoe is unique thanks to the cut-out pattern. Simbiosi also features VIBRAM’s lightweight Megagrip rubber sole and is finished with a unique lacing system. In particular, the Simbiosi model is the first trainer ever to feature Vibram’s Sphike Wrap sole. Thanks to Vibram Wrap Tech, the grip-optimised technology that wraps around the upper of the shoe, the sole is able to define a bold unconventional style that gives the shoe a unique personality. The Vibram Sphike Wrap sole is made with Vibram Megagrip compound, the best solution in terms of grip on wet and rough terrain, and Vibram Litebase technology, which reduces the thickness of the rubber at the base of the sole, while maintaining the same arrangement and shape of the tread blocks.

New Mono[PA6] backpack from FREITAG: one material, many recycles

After three years dedicated to development FREITAG launches another circular innovation: the Mono[PA6] backpack is not only functional, durable and water-repellent, but also recyclable in its entirety and therefore entirely circular. From the fabric to the zips to the buckles, the backpack is made from a single material so that it can be easily recycled as a whole at the end of its life cycle. The material chosen is polyamide 6 or PA6, better known as nylon: versatile, robust and multifaceted. With the launch of this innovative product, the Zurich-based bag manufacturer closes a material loop and takes a new important step towards its vision of a circular economy.

FREITAG also followed a co-creative approach in the product design phase: the Mono[PA6] backpack was developed together with British designer Jeffrey Siu and features the musette, a small, removable bag and at the same time a homage to an iconic cycling accessory, which can be worn as a practical shoulder bag or attached to the backpack at several points as an additional outer bag. The volume of the rucksack can also be expanded or reduced thanks to the folded bottom and flexible roll-top closure.

Area tendenze Arsutoria a Texworld Parigi

Durante la prossima edizione di Texworld Paris, che si terrà a Parigi Port de Versailles dall’1 al 3 luglio 2024, Arsutoria organizzerà l’area tendenze con materiali e componenti per l’autunno – inverno 25/26.

L’area tendenze di Parigi segue quelle organizzate da Arsutoria a Città del Capo lo scorso settembre e a New York in gennaio, rafforzando la collaborazione con Messe Frankfurt.

A Parigi Arsutoria ringrazia in anticipo i suoi partner: