From 14 to 17 June 2025, the Innovation Village Retail at Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags was back in the spotlight, showcasing the best innovative solutions dedicated to distribution. The centrepiece of the event, organised in collaboration with Retail Hub, was the highly anticipated Startup Competition, now in its eighth edition, with impressive results: 68 startups from 19 different countries had the opportunity to present revolutionary ideas to transform the sector.
The jury, composed of leading buyers and market experts, awarded the prize to Irisphera, a Romanian startup that stood out for the quality of its technological proposal and its ability to respond concretely to one of the biggest challenges facing online fashion retail: efficient returns management and sustainable purchasing.
Thanks to its victory, Irisphera will be present at the next edition of Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags scheduled for January 2026, an opportunity to further establish itself on the international scene. The startup offers an innovative SaaS platform that combines artificial intelligence and 3D technology to help consumers choose clothing that perfectly fits their body type. The result: a significant reduction in returns of up to 30%, an increase in conversions and valuable analytical data for retailers.
IRISPHERA: A VIRTUAL PERSONAL SHOPPER THAT CHANGES THE RULES OF THE GAME
Online shopping today presents numerous challenges, especially due to the high rate of returns, which generates significant operating costs and considerable environmental impacts. Irisphera, through a virtual personal shopper powered by AI, provides personalised recommendations in terms of size, colour and style, combined with the ability to view clothes virtually in 360°.
Antonia Dumitriu, CEO and co-founder of Irisphera, tells us about the mission and distinctive features of the solution: «Our technology is highly scalable and automatically transforms images of clothes on retailers’ websites into 3D models in a matter of seconds. No physical samples or high production costs are required. Since its launch last December, we already have customers in Romania, Italy and the Netherlands, and we are entering the UAE market with a men’s fashion group.»
The immediate benefits are clear: «We are already seeing significant results, such as doubling conversion rates, increasing customer loyalty through a better customer experience and more robust business strategies based on key consumer data», adds Dumitriu.
«By working with us – continues the CEO – retailers can access savings of up to 7.5 billion, reduce returns by 30% and cut emissions by 60%. Considering that the fashion industry generates around 10% of total CO₂ emissions, partly due to returns, our platform represents a concrete and sustainable solution.»
Integrating Irisphera is simple and straightforward: «For websites based on Shopify or WordPress, we already have plugins ready to use. For other sites, integration is via API. All we need are the images already online, which are automatically processed and digitised into 3D models», concludes Dumitriu.
The Innovation Village Retail thus continues to confirm its status as a key showcase for innovative start-ups ready to rewrite the rules of fashion distribution, looking determinedly to the future of the sector. An excellent opportunity for buyers to find new avenues for their business.
“The big fashion brands understood that the sneaker had to change – and they succeeded in changing it. We now have a sports shoe that’s a ballet flat, and a ballet flat that’s a sports shoe.” This was one of the insights shared by Maria Cristina Rossi, teacher at Arsutoria School, with the large audience attending trend talks in the Highlights Area at Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags.
Her observation captures, in simple terms, the much broader and more complex transformations affecting not just fashion, but the entire market. But how can we respond to a shifting landscape? The key concept is “Knowing How to Become”. “Knowing How to Become” refers to the ability of individuals and organisations to continually learn and adapt to ever-changing contexts, environments and situations.
It is the most fitting way to describe the work carried out by Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags since the early 2000s: “We began by focusing on internationalising the exhibitor base – the fair that moves the world. More recently, we’ve evolved the event into a must-attend opportunity for the entire footwear and accessories community. A place for doing business, of course, but also for staying informed and connecting intelligently – through a rich program of events, the Business Scout services, and the app that enables direct contact between exhibitors and buyers,” as Alessandra Albarelli, General Manager of Riva del Garda Fierecongressi, explained.
KEY FIGURES FROM THE 103RD EDITION
The 103rd edition of Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags, held from 14 to 17 June 2025, welcomed 8,000 attendees from over 100 countries, meeting organisers’ expectations and reflecting broader market trends.
Roberto Pellegrini, Chairman of Riva del Garda Fierecongressi: “Once again, the summer edition has proven to be stronger than the winter one. Visitor numbers remained largely stable – a solid result considering the many complications currently affecting global markets, as well as the military conflicts that, during the fair itself, escalated and prevented several countries from participating.”
Buyer attendance grew from the UK (+5%) and Poland (+15%), with Germany holding steady and Italy showing a slight decline. Non-EU inbound attendance was also positive, with India up by 13.6%, and both Africa and the United States registering a +10% increase.
That buyer quality – often more important than quantity – continues to drive order placements is confirmed by the consistent demand for more exhibition space to welcome new exhibitors and allow existing ones to enlarge their stands. “We will meet these demands by expanding the exhibition centre. Over the next three years, we plan to complete works that will make the fairgrounds even more welcoming: we will add another 20,000 m2, building new halls for a total investment of around €50 million. This will ensure an even greater international reach and exhibitor diversity,” revealed Roberto Pellegrini.
This diversity is indeed one of the event’s greatest strengths, as confirmed by Antonia Reading of Hotter, a major UK retail chain with its own manufacturing company, who visited the fair for the first time: “I was amazed by the variety of the offering – both in terms of the chance to meet suppliers from literally all over the world and the different levels of quality I could choose from.”
THE EVOLUTION OF GARDABAGS… AND BEYOND
Undoubtedly, the most talked-about transformation at the June edition was the revamp of Gardabags. Social media lit up with photos of the new halls entirely dedicated to the event, which doubled in both floor space and collection offering. A stylish, fashion-forward atmosphere defined the three new zones designed for interaction between exhibitors and buyers – the pillars of the new Gardabags format: Sourcing, Sourcing4Bridge, and Brands, not to mention the strong presence of exhibitors specialising in travel goods.
Having successfully redefined the Riva event as the essential hub not only for footwear trade, but now also for bags, backpacks and travel accessories, Riva del Garda Fierecongressi is already looking ahead. The next step: the progressive evolution of Expo Riva Schuh itself, beginning with the unveiling of a new visual identity – a reflection of the fair’s continued innovation, adaptability, connection to its local roots and commitment to networking.
The new logo – featuring a clean and immediate design – complements the renewed identity of Gardabags and clearly conveys the message of a modern, functional and service-oriented trade fair. Every detail of the new design has been carefully analysed to communicate Expo Riva Schuh’s commitment to keeping pace with the times, while maintaining strong and consistent brand recognition.
INNOVATION
Alberto Mattiello – futurist, author, Head of Innovation Retail Hub, and member of the Scientific Committee of Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags – also addressed the profound changes shaping the world during his opening speech at the Startup Competition: “Artificial Intelligence remains the central theme when it comes to innovation. After being used to streamline processes and save us time, it has evolved into a wide array of specialised, customisable and controllable tools capable of ‘reasoning’. Now, it’s reaching a third evolutionary stage. We’ve entered the era of Massive Automation: within a few months, we may all become programmers – not because we’ve learned to code, but because machines will do it for us, creating applications tailored to our needs.”
The ever-growing panel of judges, composed of leading buyers and industry experts, selected Irisphera (Romania) as the best solution among those presented during the June 2025 edition of the Innovation Village Retail, an initiative organised in collaboration with Retail Hub, which – across its eight editions – has showcased 68 startups from 19 countries.
Thanks to their win, Irisphera will have the opportunity to exhibit at the next edition of the event, scheduled for January 2026, further strengthening its presence on the international stage.
The company will promote its platform, which uses artificial intelligence and 3D technology to help consumers find clothing tailored to their bodies, offering personalised suggestions on size, colour and style. The result is a significant reduction in returns, an enhanced shopping experience and valuable analytics for retailers.
Other events throughout the four-day fair also drew large crowds: the Highlights Area, where attendees explored consumer trends and gathered reliable insights to inform purchasing decisions; the Market Focus sessions, a prime opportunity for buyers to discuss their local markets and meet suppliers suited to their specific needs; and the Expo Riva Nights, where connections were built beyond business in a festive, relaxed atmosphere.
Once again, the 103rd edition of Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags demonstrated its ability to truly “Know How to Become” what the industry needs – and it will continue to do so in future editions, starting with the next, which will take place from 10 to 13 January 2026.
The official programme for the UITIC International Technical Footwear Congress has been released. The 22nd edition, to be held in Shanghai (China) from 31 August to 3 September 2025, will feature numerous in-depth presentations on the evolution and innovation sweeping the footwear industry.
UITIC also continues its tradition of offering participants a complementary programme of visits to factories and institutions. Two options will be available, providing an insight into the world of Chinese footwear and China’s extraordinary traditional culture. Participants can choose between one-day or two-day visits.
A day dedicated to sustainable fashion, environmental responsibility and the promotion of the footwear and fashion supply chain was held in the splendid setting of Villa Bruguier in Capannori. This was the focus of GREEN DAY, an event promoted by the Tuscany4Shoes network, which now brings together over 60 companies from the footwear and fashion world, based at the Capannori Technology Park.
The event opened in the early morning with institutional greetings from Giordano Del Chiaro, Mayor of Capannori, Regional Councillor Valentina Mercanti and Mayor of Scandicci Claudia Sereni. Representing the Tuscany4Shoes Network were Serena Cecchini, President, and Pietro Angelini, Director of NAVIGO, Temporary Manager of the Network.
The agenda focused on sustainability applied to fashion and the local area, with speeches by Silvia Gambi (Solo Moda Sostenibile), Marco Zappolini (ESG Italia), Tonja Pierallini, representative of the ‘Terra di Tutti’ project, and Matteo Pasca, director of Arsutoria.
In addition to the aforementioned presentations, there was also a space dedicated to the presentation of the ‘Shoes ID’ project, created in collaboration with NAVIGO, Lucense and CAEN, aimed at strengthening the identity of Tuscan footwear through innovation, traceability and digital technologies.
The event was closed by a rich panel of some of the most important international fashion houses and companies in the supply chain, who shared best practices, challenges and strategies for fashion that is increasingly attentive to the environment and the future.
“With the first edition of GREEN DAY, we wanted to demonstrate how sustainability, innovation and supply chain are not just keywords, but concrete actions that our companies put into practice every day. Tuscan fashion has a strong identity, rooted in the territory and capable of facing environmental and social challenges with vision, both locally and internationally,” said Serena Cecchini. “This event is a step forward in strengthening our network, activating new connections and building a more responsible future together.”
IN-DEPTH ANALYSIS
There is an old idea that is gaining ground again amid the folds of an increasingly complex supply chain: creating a system. Not because it is fashionable and everyone is talking about it, but out of necessity. Joining forces to overcome market challenges is the underlying theme that underpinned most of the conference presentations.
SUSTAINABILITY: FROM COST TO STRATEGIC LEVER
The conference gave ample space to the topic of ESG, showing how sustainability is no longer a reputational option, but an enabling condition for accessing markets and finance. Marco Zappolini (ESG Italia) put it clearly: “Companies must start testing their level of compliance. Certifications are not logos to be displayed, but tools for governance, competitiveness and access to funds.”
The same applies to those who have turned sustainability into a business: the ‘Terra di Tutti’ project is a prime example. It recovers materials, regenerates them into design objects (from broken umbrellas, exhibition banners and textile scraps) and at the same time integrates vulnerable people into the world of work, creating a social and aesthetic supply chain. An innovative craft workshop, rooted in the local area.
FROM THE SUPPLY CHAIN TO THE ECOSYSTEM
On the sidelines of the conference, representatives of international brands also spoke. The message was unanimous: transparency, traceability and a cultural shift in the relationship between brands and suppliers are needed. “Today, customers ask us: who made this product? Where? Under what conditions?” recalled Luca Perone. This is why sustainability must become a strategic asset, not a marketing label.
THE FUTURE LIES IN DIALOGUE BETWEEN SMALL AND LARGE
The comparison with the French model – which is more centralised and structured – has been useful in recognising the limitations but also the strengths of the Italian system, which is based on districts and small businesses. But a strategy is needed. Without targeted public policies and a change in mindset among big brands, small businesses risk being left alone to face increasingly stringent regulations (such as European Eco-Design or Digital Product Passports).
FROM KNOW-HOW TO KNOW-HOW-TO-TRANSMIT
Italian know-how is a heritage. But it is not enough to preserve it: it must be transmitted. This is the heart of the reflection on training that emerged during the conference. It is not just a matter of teaching technical skills, but of creating educational systems capable of integrating manual skills, organisation and innovation. As Matteo Pasca of Arsutoria pointed out, “vocational training cannot be based solely on theory or passive mentoring: precise teaching protocols, stimulating work environments and machines that are suited to the real world of production are needed”.
The most structured companies are already investing in the creation of a ‘library of gestures’ and in internal courses that enable the transfer of skills from one generation to the next. But it is the synergy between the public and private sectors that makes the difference: the use of training funds, the use of ITSs and collaboration with training institutions are key elements. A concrete example? Co-designed courses to train rare professionals such as jointers, through intensive tailor-made courses. Because a district is not only competitive when it innovates its products, but when it innovates its people.
CONCLUSIONS: THE COST OF DOING NOTHING
“What is the cost of not doing it?” This is the question that Francesco Cosentino (Antica Valserchio) posed to the audience. It concerned digitalisation, but it could apply to any of the topics discussed: sustainability, training, traceability, supply chain. This is the point: today, the real risk is not investing. It is standing still.
This is where the ‘Tuscany4Shoes’ model comes in, not as a goal, but as a method. A way of tackling complexity with collective energy.
Matteo Pasca, Director of Arsutoria School, during his speech at the conference organised by Tuscany4Shoes
ABOUT TUSCANY4SHOES
Tuscany 4 Shoes is a network of companies representing the footwear sector, created to serve the industry, to understand, strengthen, promote and internationalise it.
On the one hand, T4S aims to support companies during a difficult period for the footwear market, which is undergoing major changes. On the other hand, it acts as a privileged technical partner, providing accurate information to institutions, public administrators and trade associations. It was born from the belief in the strength of grassroots, cross-cutting and complementary groups, in response to the need for companies to come together and share information.
Today, it has 59 member companies (+4 entry requests), including 21 footwear manufacturers, 20 suppliers, 6 component manufacturers and 5 retailers.
“Whether you are looking for inspiration, technical innovation or new business connections, this event is not to be missed.” This was the invitation that called industry professionals to visit the event organised by Italiana Accessori and Sagitta on 26 and 27 June 2025 in Montevarchi, Tuscany.
Italiana Accessori, a specialist in the production of studs and decorative elements, and Sagitta, a leader in the development of technological solutions for the automatic application of studs, have resumed their tradition of organising an event to present the latest innovations in the world of decoration for footwear, leather goods and clothing. This is an opportunity for customers and suppliers to meet and highlight the state of the art in accessories and technologies dedicated to efficiency and precision, always at the service of style.
“Numerous visitors came to see us and took part in live demonstrations and personalised consultations in a festive and networking atmosphere. They discovered how our solutions integrate perfectly into their production processes, how they simplify them and how they can increase productivity.”
Nera, a brand of Royal Smit & Zoon, has launched a new podcast series: ‘Leathertainment on the Go,’ hosted by Florian Schrey and Volkan Yilmaz (known as Tanner Leatherstein on social media). As many as eight episodes, all available on YouTube and Spotify.
Over the course of the chats, with a dash of humor and levity, the two experts delve into a wide range of skin-related topics, from trying to dispel common myths about vegan skin to discussing animal welfare and the future of skin. An entertaining and informative series that aims to spread correct information about skin for the benefit of the entire industry.
Nera is Dutch company Royal Smit & Zoon’s flagship brand of innovative Zeology leather that represents a major advance in sustainable leather production. It uses a revolutionary zeolite-based tanning agent that makes it free of chromium, aldehyde and heavy metals. This unique process not only makes the leather compostable and biodegradable, but also improves its performance and durability.
This will be the second time that the UITIC Congress comes to China after being held successfully in Guangzhou in 2013.
The organizers have chosen Shanghai, an international metropolis that harmoniously combines historical culture and modern fashion, as the conference venue. «China will offer the participants a high-level footwear technology extravaganza with the warmest hospitality and the most considerate service», as explained by Li Yuzhong, the chairman of the China Leather Industry Association.
Why was Shanghai chosen as the host city for this year’s conference?
«Shanghai is a modern international metropolis with the spirit of inclusiveness, pursuit of excellence, broad-mindedness, and humility. Located at the estuary of the Yangtze River in East China and facing the Pacific Ocean, Shanghai forms part of the Yangtze River Delta, one of China’s most robust, open and innovative regions. As China’s largest economic powerhouse and an important international financial center, Shanghai achieved a GDP of 5.39 trillion yuan in 2024, up 5 percent year-on-year. Shanghai is also an important hub for the Chinese fashion industry. Nowadays, Shanghai Fashion Week is ranked among the top five fashion events in the world.
Shanghai is closely associated with footwear industry. Firstly, in Shanghai, there are “China Time-honored Brands” like Huili and “Shanghai Time-honored Brands” such as Shanghai Leather Shoe Factory, along with well-known shoe material suppliers like Huafeng. Secondly, design-oriented institutions such as Donghua University and Shanghai Art & Design Academy are also located here. These institutions have cultivated and supplied a large number of talents for the footwear industry. Moreover, in the areas surrounding Shanghai, numerous footwear manufacturing clusters, including Wenzhou, Wenling, Gaoqiao, and Danyang, can showcase the significant changes in China’s footwear industry in terms of intelligent manufacturing, technological innovation, and quality improvement. Finally, Moda China International Shoes, Bags & Apparel Fashion Fair will be held concurrently with All China Leather Exhibition (ACLE) in Shanghai from September 3rd to 5th. ACLE is the largest leather raw materials exhibition in Asia. Therefore, we believe this city can offer a unique platform for attendees to explore the latest developments and trends in the footwear industry.»
What about the development situation of China’s footwear industry?
«China is the world’s largest footwear producer, exporter, and consumer. Annually, it produces around 13 billion pairs of shoes, accounting for over 55% of the global production. In 2024, sales revenue of footwear enterprises above designated size reached 550 billion Yuan. China exported 9.2 billion pairs of shoes, with an export value reaching 46.87 billion US dollars in the same year.
In recent years, the industry has continuously achieved high-quality development. Numerous shoe brands have come to the fore in China, including Anta, Lining, Belle, Kangnai and Yearcon. Simultaneously, China’s footwear industry has accelerated technological upgrading by leveraging digital applications, and the implementation of clean production has furthered the low-carbon manufacturing transformation significantly.»
How many representatives will attend UITIC Congress 2025 in Shanghai?
«Participants will include not only footwear manufacturers, but also upstream footwear materials, chemical enterprises, shoes machinery enterprises, and shoe manufacturing clusters. It is anticipated that there will be 300 attendees, among whom more than 80 will be foreign representatives. At present, online registration is in full swing. The deadline for early bird registration has been extended to July 1st. We sincerely invite entrepreneurs, scholars and industry experts from all around the world to join us in Shanghai.»
What is the theme of this conference?
«The theme of this conference is “Footwear Competitiveness and Sustainable Development in the era of AI”. Footwear brands, manufacturers, researchers, and related experts will get together to discuss and explore the future of footwear companies through innovative materials and products, smart manufacturing and sustainability, sharing key innovations and insights at this technical conference.»
How many oral presentations and visual presentations are planned to be presented?
«The UITIC Congress Scientific Committee has reviewed the abstracts submitted globally and selected about 16 speakers to give oral presentations and 24 visual presentations to be showcased on site. Two keynote speakers will bring the latest innovation trends on both AI and sustainability.»
The International Shoe Industry Technology Conference has always had the tradition of factory visits. Will there be any related arrangements or other off-site activities this time?
«The organizers will follow the factory visit tradition of the UITIC Congress. A two-day visit will be arranged from August 31st to September 1st, including visits to SADA, Shima, Huafon, Siena, and Duowei. Meanwhile, the participants can also enjoy the Huangpu River night cruise tour on Sep 2, and visit ACLE and Moda China exhibitions on Sep 3. We firmly believe that this is not just a high-level technical event, but also a platform for information exchange, and cooperation. The delegates will have a deep understanding of the achievements of China’s footwear industry and experience the charm of Shanghai, which is known as the Pearl of the Orient.»
At present, online registration is in full swing. The organizers have announced that the deadline for early bird registration has been extended to July 1st. Representatives interested in attending the conference are kindly advised to register as soon as possible.
The organizers will retain the factory visit tradition of the UITIC Congress. A two-day visiting itinerary will be arranged from August 31st to September 1st, including visits to SADA, Shima, Huafon, Siena, Duowei, etc.
The oral speakers will give speeches on the topic of Footwear Competitiveness and Sustainable Development in the Era of AI from September 2nd to 3rd.
During the conference, the participants can also visit ACLE, Moda China and enjoy the Huangpu River night cruise tour.
The delegates will have a deep understanding of the achievements of China’s footwear industry and experience the charm of Shanghai, which is known as the Pearl of the Orient.
2024 is shaping up to be a year of considerable complexity for the Italian fashion industry and its entire value chain, including instrumental mechanics. An uncertain global macroeconomic framework, characterised by a slowdown in demand and geopolitical tensions, has imposed a significant slowdown on a sector that represents one of the excellences of Made in Italy. The analysis conducted by Assomac in its latest report offers a detailed overview of this conjuncture, outlining the critical issues but also the strategic opportunities that await companies in the coming months, with a special focus on the tannery, footwear and leather goods technology sector.
THE GENERAL CONTEXT: A WIDESPREAD CONTRACTION IN THE FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN
The entire fashion ecosystem has been affected by the weak economic environment. According to data from Federmacchine, the Italian mechano-instrumental goods sector recorded a drop in turnover of 7.4% in 2024 compared to the previous year, to EUR 52.5 billion. This drop was caused by both a decrease in exports (-4.2% to EUR 36 billion) and a collapse in deliveries on the domestic market (-13.7%), a symptom of a drastic reduction in investments in machinery by companies (-14.3%).
The user sectors, in turn, suffered a contraction. The fashion industry as a whole ended 2024 with a turnover of 96 billion euro, down 5.3%. The ‘core’ sectors of the supply chain suffered the most:
– Tannery: The sector saw its turnover fall by 4.3% and production volumes drop by 7.6%. This is the second consecutive year of decline, influenced by the weakness of the main customer sectors (fashion, furniture, automotive). Exports, although slightly down (-3%), showed uneven trends, with growth in markets such as Spain, Germany and Vietnam and declines in the USA, Portugal and the UK.
– Footwear: 2024 was a particularly difficult year for the Italian footwear industry. Assocalzaturifici reports a 9.4% drop in turnover and a 16.1% drop in production. These figures also had a severe impact on employment, with a loss of almost 2,800 employees and the closure of 195 companies (5.5% of the total).
– Leather goods: This sector also recorded a significant drop in turnover (-8.9%) and an even more marked drop in production (-22.9%), with a loss of around 2,000 jobs and the closure of 3.9% of companies. Exports are also down in this sector (-9.3%).
The widespread suffering is fuelled by the slowdown in consumption, particularly in key markets such as China, and by a change in the spending priorities of consumers, who are seeking a better balance between quality and price, even in the luxury segment.
FOCUS TECHNOLOGIES: ITALIAN MECHANICS UNDER PRESSURE
The heart of Assomac’s analysis focuses on the footwear, leather goods and tannery machinery sector, which represents the technological engine of the supply chain. In 2024, the sector generated a total turnover of around €575 million, marking a 12% drop compared to 2023.
The dynamics of exports, which are the main vocation of these companies, were mixed:
– Tannery Machinery: bucking the trend, they recorded a slight positive sign (+2.18%), driven however by specific orders and not by a structural recovery.
– Footwear and leather goods machines: They suffered a significant drop in exports of 19.76%. In particular, machines for leather goods showed a drastic -37.84%.
– Spare parts: They showed a smaller decrease (-3.98%), indicating that maintenance and service activities continue to represent a solid base.
Geographically, while strong European manufacturing markets such as France (-29.8%), Spain and Portugal slowed down, there were surprisingly positive performances in China (+35.4%), Vietnam (+142.9%), Brazil (+47.7%) and India (+33.8%). These figures, however, reflect specific dynamics of investment in local tanneries or production clusters and not a global trend reversal.
ASSOMAC Assembly 2025
THE COMPETITIVE SCENARIO: THE UNSTOPPABLE ADVANCE OF CHINA
Despite the difficulties, Italy maintains a technological leadership position, holding 30% of global exports of machinery for the sector. However, international competition has become more aggressive. China has made an impressive leap, increasing its share of global trade from 34% to 44%in just one year.
China’s strategy is not only based on direct sales, but on an industrial policy of expansion and relocation to South East Asian countries (Vietnam, India, Indonesia), where Beijing consolidates its presence with agreements that feed local demand for machinery. As the world’s leading footwear producer, China is strengthening its role as Asia’s industrial hub, putting pressure on the competitiveness of European companies specialising in higher value-added segments.
2025 OUTLOOK: UNCERTAINTY AND THE NEED FOR A CHANGE OF GEAR
The outlook for 2025 remains cautious and uncertain. The start of the year was weak, with declining orders in both domestic and international markets. There is a lack of concrete signs of an upturn in consumption, a factor that directly affects investments in new machinery by customer supply chains.
Added to this is the lack of impact of the Transition 5.0 Plan, a measure designed to support the dual digital and ecological transition but which, due to excessive bureaucracy and high initial costs, has failed to intercept the needs of SMEs, the backbone of the Italian production fabric.
Faced with this scenario, the Assomac report highlights a number of strategic guidelines that are essential for recovery:
1. Driven Technological Innovation: The real competitive leverage lies in the adoption of advanced technologies. Artificial Intelligence for quality control and predictive analysis, collaborative robotics to automate critical phases, digital twin to simulate production processes, and traceability technologies (blockchain, RFID) are no longer options, but necessities to respond to regulations and consumers’ growing demand for transparency and sustainability.
2. Aggregation and Collaboration: The fragmentation of the production fabric, largely composed of micro and small enterprises, represents a structural weakness. It is essential to promote collaboration models such as business networks, consortia and joint ventures to share resources, access economies of scale, participate in European calls for tenders and improve international visibility.
3. Human Capital and Training: Technological transformation must be accompanied by an investment in skills. It is essential to create training paths to develop new professional figures with digital, technical and sustainability-oriented skills, encouraging generational change.
4. Targeted Industrial Policies: Companies are asking for concrete support through an Extraordinary Industrial Plan, both at national and European level. They need targeted tax incentives, export support tools and a regulatory framework that simplifies bureaucracy and promotes competitiveness, countering the advantage of countries with more favourable regulations and tax systems.
The Italian fashion technology supply chain is at a crossroads. The current crisis is not only conjunctural, but structural. Recovery will depend not only on a restart of global markets, but on the ability of the country-system and individual companies to implement a profound strategic change. The excellence of Made in Italy, based on know-how and technological leadership, is a heritage to be defended and enhanced, but to compete in the new global scenario we will need a decisive step towards collaborative innovation, digitalisation and sustainability.
Quality, skills, technology. These are the pillars on which the Italian footwear, leather goods and tannery machinery sector is called upon to build its relaunch. The General Assembly of Assomac on 20 June 2025, hosted at the Kilometro Rosso Innovation District in Bergamo, offered a complex picture, but also outlined strategies to overcome difficulties and project into the future. The 2024 forecast showed a drop in turnover in the sector of 12% to around EUR 575 million. This contraction, which affects both the domestic and export markets, is part of a global context of geopolitical instability, inflation, shrinking consumption and tightening trade barriers.
A SECTOR SUFFERING, BUT WITH STRONG ROOTS
Mauro Bergozza, President of Assomac, opened the proceedings by emphasising the gravity of the situation but also the sector’s potential to react. ‘Our sector is experiencing a phase of deep suffering, but not irreversible,’ said Bergozza. He emphasised that the quality of Italian technologies, the solidity of know-how and the drive for innovation must once again become the engine of competitiveness. To achieve this, investments in digitisation, automation, sustainability and, above all, a shared vision between companies, institutions and the education and research system are needed. “We must be ready to play a system game, otherwise we will remain on the margins of the global market.”
Despite the difficulties, Italy is confirmed as the technological leader in the high-end segment at an international level, maintaining a 30% share of the sector’s world exports in 2024. In particular, Italy holds 52% of the global export of tannery machinery and 35% of that of leather goods machinery. More penalised is the footwear segment, which stands at 12%, in a competitive context dominated by the growing Chinese presence: Beijing has strengthened its industrial role in the Asian area. President Bergozza emphasised Italy’s leadership in tanning, supported by the high technological value of machinery and tanning chemicals. However, leather goods and footwear are under increasing pressure from Asian producers, particularly China, which produced 12.3 billion pairs of shoes in 2023, accounting for 55% of the world total (87% if we consider the whole of Asia).
THE MACROECONOMIC CONTEXT AND GLOBAL CHALLENGES
Maurizio Tarquini, Director General of Confindustria, provided a broader perspective on the economic context, acknowledging the ability of Italian companies to navigate short and traumatic cycles. He recalled how Italy, in spite of numerous crises (from 9/11, to the Lehman Brothers chaos, to national crises, to Covid, to the war in Ukraine), has become the fourth largest exporting country in the world over the past two decades, maintaining dominant positions in many niche sectors. ‘If we see how we have come through these crises, we should be really proud, it means that we have an edge,’ said Tarquini. He emphasised that Italian companies, even in a changing and complicated environment, have shown that they are able to adapt, always finding the right way through increased market pressure, new markets, innovation and integration.
Italy’s strength lies in its resourcefulness, with a 60% increase in the share of exports of goods in 25 years. However, Tarquini highlighted the lack of adequate political accompaniment to entrepreneurs. “Entrepreneurs are normally not accompanied, those who do business are not accompanied by a policy that supports them,” he said. He lamented the slow authorisation processes and the difficulties in accessing finance and infrastructure. The cost of bureaucracy and regulations in Italy is twice as high as in Germany, which also complains about its bureaucracy. Tarquini announced that Confindustria has submitted 80 cost-free simplification measures to the government, of which only 14 have been approved so far. ‘We are proposing solutions almost obsessively, and we will insist until we are listened to,’ concluded Tarquini, reiterating the importance of a policy that believes in companies, the real engine of the country.
Erika Andreetta, Partner at PwC Italy and EMEA Fashion & Luxury Leader, confirmed the downturn in the markets, with forecasts of a further decline after the summer, due to geopolitical uncertainty that slows down investments and shifts consumption towards essential goods. He noted how the large French groups are trying to recover volumes with more aggressive pricing policies in the entry price categories (perfumes, cosmetics), which however do not involve the Italian fashion supply chain. Andreetta pointed out that luxury products are also suffering from excessive price increases and a change in consumer preferences, which favour experiences rather than the purchase of goods. He stressed the fragmentation of the Italian supply chain, with companies that on average have few employees, and the need to address issues such as national collective agreements and aggregations. He also mentioned the shift to ‘see now, buy now’ models by big brands, which severely reduces production batches, creating peaks of work followed by decreases for the supply chain, thus making it difficult to set production capacity.
Mauro Bergozza
INNOVATION AND DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION: THE WAY FORWARD
Giuliano Noci, Professor of Strategy and Marketing at the Politecnico di Milano, emphasised the need for a profound digital transformation if we want to ensure the future success of Made in Italy. He acknowledged the ‘positive bias’ Italy enjoys in the world, thanks to the quality of our traditional manufacturing. However, he warned that past excellence does not guarantee future excellence. Noci criticised Italy’s low investment in innovation (1.4 per cent of GDP, compared to 2.5 per cent in China and over 3 per cent in other countries) and in digital, where Italy is fourth to last in Europe in terms of skills. “The crux of the matter for any Italian industry is called digital transformation,” said Noci, describing it as a largely unfinished priority.
He argued that the problem is not only Italian, but also European, particularly for Germany and Italy, the ‘key points of European manufacturing’ that are now in the news as the ‘main problems’. Noci used the example of the German automotive industry to illustrate how a ‘manufacturing cultural legacy’ can impede the proper orientation of investments. He reiterated that Italy’s extraordinary ability to transform physical matter into manufactured goods is no longer sufficient. It is essential to integrate a new operational cycle: data management, with artificial intelligence as the completion of the digital transition. “Artificial intelligence is like air, it will enter every crevice, we will not escape artificial intelligence,” he said.
Noci outlined two key revolutions: digital transformation, which will lead companies to become ‘service providers’ rather than just machine suppliers, and an ‘ability to express an integrated cycle with our business customers’. This approach of ‘customer intimacy’ and operational integration is the only hope to compete with Chinese manufacturers, who will continue to sell machines at a lower cost. “We will no longer be able to be in the market as sellers of machines, but will have to become intimate with our customers as suppliers who can take care of our customers’ products in a broad sense. He concluded that luxury, although in a phase of change, is not ‘in trouble’, but is redefining the type of products required: customisation, new materials, environmental sustainability.
Mauro Bergozza emphasised the need to overcome old patterns and habits, promoting Automation, Creativity and Technology (ACT) as strategic levers for the relaunch. He emphasised the importance of working in a supply chain and with a shared vision to tackle the markets. Italy’s total export of ACT technologies has reached over 32 billion euros, with an estimated untapped potential of around 8 billion. Among the priorities that emerged from the Assembly, Bergozza mentioned greater access to subsidised finance tools (such as Industria 5.0 funds), support for exports in key markets (Africa, India, South-East Asia, South America), investment in technical training, and the acceleration of digital innovation processes. He launched a proposal for a major international promotion programme for medium technology.
THE NEED TO SYSTEMISE AND AGGREGATE
The concept of ‘working as a system’ was a leitmotif of the Assembly. Maurizio Forte, ICE Agenzia Central Director for Export Sectors, reiterated ITA – Italian Trade Agency’s mission to accompany companies in exporting, investing resources where they can yield the most, in collaboration with the Confindustria associations. He praised the industry’s ability to do ‘supply chain work’, citing the example of the pooling of SIMAC and Tanning Tech exhibitions. Forte expressed confidence in market opportunities, particularly in Africa, where ‘you sow today to reap in 10 years, but if you never sow you will never get a harvest’.
Luca Sburlati, President of Confindustria Moda, the Confindustria Textile and Fashion Federation, spoke of a ‘very strong crisis’ in the Tuscan leather goods district and a general contraction in the textile, fashion and leather products system, which will drop from 104 to 90 billion in turnover between 2023 and 2024, with a further -20% in the Tuscan district in the first three months of 2025. He pointed out that China is creating its own brands and accessible luxury, while the price increase of some brands has led to a decrease in demand. Sburlati also agreed on the need for a profound change, stating: ‘If we reason as we have reasoned up to now, we are all dead, including Italian brands’. He proposed a ten-year national strategic plan for the fashion industry, including Assomac, and horizontal work between the categories. He called for a shift of private investment towards Italian companies, suggesting a minimum tax advantage for pension funds investing in Italian companies.
Sburlati criticised the tendency of sourcing managers to reduce purchasing costs, which induces ‘sub-standard’ practices that only have the effect of lowering quality. He cited a personal example where he refused to work with a brand that imposed prices that were too low: ‘Either we have the courage as a supply chain to respond even negatively to certain outrageous proposals or we will not get out of it’. He reiterated that technology, including artificial intelligence, must go beyond mere production, offering services such as operations management and quality control. He concluded with the wish to work in a more united manner, recognising that ‘if I had attended this assembly 10 years ago, I would have found you all competing with each other, today you are one supply chain and this is a strength to be developed’. He finally recalled the importance of sustainability as a value and barrier to entry for producers from other parts of the world.
Mauro Bergozza also returned to the topic of aggregation, reiterating that competitiveness is built together, with business networks, strategic alliances and investment in research and development. Trust is important, but alone it is not enough; what is needed is a concrete transformation of expectations into turnover. He emphasised that the fragmentation of the sector, with over 70 per cent micro and small family businesses, limits the ability to invest in innovation, digitalisation and internationalisation. “Aggregating through mergers, acquisitions or alliances is no longer an option, but a necessity to survive and grow”. He cited successful M&A examples in other sectors and the importance of openness to outside capital for growth. He concluded: ‘We are too small to compete’, and urged to address the issue of ‘industrial dwarfism’.
Guido Cami, President and CEO of Industrie Chimiche Forestali, shared his company experience in a period of ‘incredible turbulence’. He recounted how his company, founded in 1918 and a manufacturer of adhesives, diversified its outlet sectors (footwear, leather goods, automotive, flexible packaging, industrial applications) and took over other companies to make ‘critical mass’. “I believe that size matters in an increasingly complicated external environment,” said Cami. He described total confusion due to Covids, wars, commodity shortages, rising energy costs and inflation, which have reduced purchasing power and shifted spending priorities. He stated that he had never seen such a chaotic situation in 40 years.
Cami espoused Noci’s vision of digital transformation, calling it an ‘investment in technology’ and emphasising how his company has transformed itself into a ‘service provider’ rather than just a sticker manufacturer. “We are a seller of a service that to customers solves the problem of sticking and holding two surfaces together.” He emphasised the value of Italian service, friendliness and skill, elements that Chinese competitors cannot replicate. He reiterated the importance of staying upmarket. The company’s larger size allows it to sustain fixed costs, invest in research and development (24 people out of 153 employees) and provide service. “If you are small, no matter how good you are, you still have to provide certain solutions to customers, but costs will be higher than revenues and margins almost non-existent. To get around this problem you have to grow in size.”
Salvatore Majorana, Director of Kilometro Rosso Innovation District, presented the district as an ‘agent of technology transfer’, dedicated to facilitating the exchange of knowledge between industry and the world of innovation. He highlighted the extraordinary quality of Italian scientific research, despite limited investments, and its ability to have an impact at global level. Kilometro Rosso brings together more than 85 companies and research centres, with the University of Bergamo, the Mario Negri Institute and Confindustria Bergamo among its establishments. The park attracts and retains young talent, with an average age of around 30. Majorana illustrated Kilometro Rosso’s approach to the digital industry and circular economy, with technological families such as artificial intelligence, robotics, sensor technology and additive manufacturing. He cited successful examples, such as the Intellimec Consortium, which brings together companies and researchers to develop technological solutions, and the joint laboratory with the European Institute of Technology to bring state-of-the-art robotics to companies.
Giuliano NociMaurizio TarquiniMaurizio Forte
THE ROLE OF FINANCE IN GENERATIONAL CHANGEOVER AND AGGREGATIONS
Alberto Russo, Founder and Managing Partner of Russo De Rosa Associati, addressed the crucial issue of company size, quoting President Bergozza’s phrase: ‘we are too small to compete’. He observed a private equity market that is very active in creating industrial clusters and platforms, but also a growing interest on the part of industry and commerce in acquiring competitors in order to grow in size and expand their product and service offerings to respond to structural changes in the market and internationalisation. Russo noted an increase in SMEs seeking acquisition partners or intending to sell a stake with a preference for long-term projects. Currently, more companies want to sell, but the number of those who want to buy is growing steadily, driven by the market’s need to increase their size and look beyond the Italian borders. He emphasised the importance of a correct assessment of the company’s value and contractual structures that guarantee the governability of the transaction in the future. Although entrepreneurs often prefer the industrial investor, because he brings expertise as well as capital, the attractiveness of private equity has grown, with deals now considering EBITDA even below EUR 5 million, down to EUR 2-3 million, with an average multiple of around 6-6.5. This is a change for the market, which now denotes a greater propensity to create specialisation platforms through holding companies that generate value through the combination and capacity for synergetic projects.
Micaele Pietro Golferenzo, Private Banker at Intesa Sanpaolo Fideuram, described the generational transition as a ‘bellyache’ moment for entrepreneurs, often procrastinated. The greatest difficulty emerges when the children show no interest in continuing the business or, worse, are not deemed up to it. Such situations easily lead to a discontinuity that can be managed through the entry of private equity, venture capital, or industrial alliances. Golferenzo pointed out that banks, when assessing financing, look not only at the company’s current solidity and size, but also at its future and continuity strategy. The presence of a manager, for example, is seen as a guarantee of continuity and contributes to a better rating, resulting in access to more funds and lower interest rates. He concluded that, while there is not yet an entirely clear growth of companies looking at generational handover, there is a growing awareness of the need to address these issues, even if talking about ‘survival’ instead of ‘growth’ can generate unease.
PROSPECTS
The Assomac General Assembly highlighted a sector in deep crisis but determined to react. President Mauro Bergozza reiterated the urgency of joint action at European level to defend and relaunch the continent’s manufacturing identity. He invited all members to contribute actively to consolidate the sector’s representation and avoid self-referentiality. He announced that Assomac is strengthening its structure with the opening of a new office in Milan, closer to the supply chain, Federmacchine and the world of consultancy and finance.
‘The challenge ahead of us is complex, but also full of opportunities,’ said Bergozza. The European fashion and technology industry can become a protagonist again if it knows how to join forces, innovate, and open up to the world. Assomac is ready with an increasingly European vision and a clear strategic programme. But the future is built together: companies, institutions, young talents and employees. It is essential to strengthen the dialogue between companies in the sector in order to represent the value of Italian medium technology with a united voice to the Italian and European governments, in order to obtain adequate industrial policies and concrete support instruments.
“The time to act is now,” Bergozza concluded, quoting Bank of Italy Governor Fabio Panetta: “Innovation does not happen by chance. We need an ecosystem that stimulates competition, spreads ideas and reduces asymmetries between financiers and entrepreneurs’. The appeal is to build this ecosystem together, for a Made in Italy that, although accustomed to difficulties, can continue to be competitive and a leader in the world.
Micaele Pietro Golferenzo, Guido Cami, Alberto Russo, Luca Sburlati, Erika Andreetta