Generational change at Tamaris
The brand, part of the Wortmann Group, is charting its course for the future with the aim of continuing the company's success and further expanding the brand's growth.
Keep reading...Metal accessories are the invisible link between technology, aesthetics and sustainability in the fashion world. Yet, until a few years ago, this essential part of the supply chain lacked a recognised technical voice at international round tables. It was precisely this awareness that led to the creation of the Physis Consortium in 2022, an organisation that today represents a benchmark for the sector thanks to its scientific, coordinated and collaborative approach.
We discuss this with Ester Falletta, Technical Director of the Consortium, who is committed to promoting standardisation, sustainability and innovation projects that are helping to redefine global standards in the sector.
The Physis Consortium is a young but already very active organisation. What are its origins and what goals did it set itself from the outset?
«The Consortium was founded just over two years ago with the aim of creating a solid alliance between companies in the metal accessories supply chain for fashion and luxury goods. The idea was to rethink the very concept of the supply chain: not only those who produce the finished component, but also those who process the raw materials, those who develop the equipment, software and digital support solutions. In such a complex sector, only a systemic approach allows for true innovation.»
In just a few years, you have managed to gain recognition as technical representatives at international tables. What prompted you to embark on this path?
«It all started with an observation: the lack of representation of metal accessories in the places where the rules are written. We were not present in the ISO groups or in the European committees that define ESG and reporting standards. This created real difficulties for companies, which found themselves applying standards designed for other sectors, such as jewellery or automotive.
Today, however, we are directly involved in defining standards, from technical terminology to certification schemes for the sustainability and traceability of precious metals.»
One of the most significant results is the creation of the ISO group dedicated to corrosion testing for metal accessories. Can you explain what this is about?
«It was a fundamental step. Until now, there were no specific technical standards for assessing the durability and quality of metal accessories. Protocols borrowed from other sectors – automotive or watchmaking – were used, with obvious limitations in terms of applicability.
In January 2025, the WG5 – “Resistance testing” working group was set up, which is developing the first international standards for corrosion testing. The first will concern the interaction between metal accessories and leather, followed by resistance to artificial sweat, abrasion resistance, resistance to corrosive atmospheres and drop testing. This is a technical breakthrough that will finally offer clear quality criteria for a strategic sector of Italian manufacturing.»
At the same time, the Consortium is also involved in revising sustainability criteria. What is your role in the European committees?
«We are involved in the work of EFRAG, the committee that defines European rules for sustainability reporting. The voice of metal accessories was completely missing here.
We brought to the attention of the technical group the importance of including our supply chain, because uncalibrated standards risk penalising SMEs, which represent the vast majority of the sector. Our contribution has served to make the rules more concrete and applicable, introducing practical guidelines and real use cases.»
You are also working with ZDHC to develop the MRSL dedicated to metal. Why is this such an important step?
«Because there was a complete lack of a list of banned or restricted chemicals (MRSL) designed for galvanised metal accessories. Companies used lists taken from other sectors – such as leather – with often inadequate results.
With ZDHC, we have begun drafting the “metals” section of the new MRSL, involving chemical formulators, manufacturers and brands. It is a complex but necessary project, because it finally defines specific criteria for our supply chain. We plan to present the first draft by the end of 2025: it will be an operational tool that will enable companies to work in a safer and more transparent way.»
Many companies complain about the proliferation of certifications and audits. You are calling for greater harmonisation of existing schemes. In what sense?
«Today, companies find themselves managing overlapping audits and certifications, often on the same requirements. This is a huge waste of time and resources, even for brands. We are working to promote harmonisation between the various schemes – environment, health and safety, social responsibility and many others – in order to avoid duplication and recognise the validity of controls already carried out. The goal is simple: to make sustainability measurable, but also accessible. We cannot ask SMEs to become “companies that only do audits”.»
Looking ahead, what priorities are you focusing the efforts of the Physis Consortium on?
«We have three guidelines:
– Consolidate the culture of technical sustainability, supporting companies in adapting to new European regulations;
– Promote shared innovation projects, such as those on eco-design and new materials;
– Simplify and harmonise certification tools to lighten the bureaucratic burden and enhance the real quality of companies.
The Consortium will continue to work as a super partes entity, open to all companies in the supply chain, even those that are not members of the consortium. Our mission is to create a system: to build a common technical base that makes the sector more competitive, sustainable and credible at an international level.»
