ILIPRANDI is the new president of Italian tanners
The UNIC Annual Meeting: 80 years of history, tanning, and the future. In 2025, production fell by 6% and exports by 5%
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December 2025
The final panel of the "Welcome to the Factory of the Future!" conference brought together leading figures from the European footwear and textile industry to discuss reindustrialisation. Between real opportunities and regulatory obstacles, the debate highlighted an uncomfortable truth: the rules of the game are not the same for everyone.
From 30% to 3%: this is the collapse in European footwear production over the last thirty years. A figure that weighs heavily and provided the backdrop for the discussion between César Araújo (ANIVEC), João Maia (APICCAPS) and Kerstin Jorna (DG Grow).
“The Portuguese footwear industry is a success story, combining tradition with technology,” said Jorna in a video message. This optimism is understandable, but it clashes with a much harsher reality.
The influx of Asian players has upset the global balance. Yet, as Maia points out, Europe has managed to retain “the stages of added value: the creative process, brand management and the production of more prestigious footwear”. In other words, that remaining 3% is made up of excellence, premium products and luxury. Portugal, Spain and Italy are holding out thanks to their skills and know-how.
But resistance is not enough. The crucial issue is unfair competition. “Europe allows third countries to use the European market without applying the same rules that industries on the Old Continent have to comply with,” Araújo complains. He adds: “We are also facing the biggest tax fraud of the 21st century,” with non-European operators circumventing customs duties and VAT.
The regulatory response? Slow. Maia confirms that the European Commission will intervene, but only in 2028. Too late for those competing today.
And reindustrialisation? We have often described it as the great return of factories close to consumer markets. The reality is more nuanced: production is shifting to other, more competitive Asian countries. The real challenge, according to Maia, is “bringing production to Europe where our skills can generate competitive businesses.”
Araújo concludes with a vision: “European industry must transform itself, focusing on value-added products and the circular economy.” Provided that the rules apply to everyone.
The UNIC Annual Meeting: 80 years of history, tanning, and the future. In 2025, production fell by 6% and exports by 5%
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